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Photographic 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian 


Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


^'"^'  '^'ffi!*;^l«^^^^^S 


m.imm>m-~  -  .r-^.;...  i«  —"Tflfy^^yyT'?^' ?"'"*?' 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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moaification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


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pas  dt6  fiimdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires: 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

I — I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


D 
D 


Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  d^colordes,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I 1    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I    Pages  detached/ 
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Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filme  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


SOX 


12X 


16X 


2DX 


28X 


32X 


lire 

details 
ues  du 

modifier 
ger  une 

filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of; 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupiication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  origina!  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contrcict  specifications. 


L'axemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grSce  d  la 
g4n6ro8it6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupiication  Service 

Lea  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —<»>(  meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustratlon,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commengant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustratlon  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  ie 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE ',  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


ire 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
fllm6s  it  das  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsqua  ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
lllustrent  la  m^thode. 


ly  errata 
3d  to 

nt 

ne  pelure, 

ipon  d 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^ 


;■)    -^  [H-:  A^  K  -ft  rffi  TK  K  GC  M  MTE  Ift . 


I 


THE 


atlf  ga|^  0f 


BMBaAOINQ 


WHAT  I  SAW  AND  HEARD  THERE,  WITH 
SCENES  IN  THE  PACIFIC. 

/'.,  ~  '-■^••'VT.'laHT  '^<vS 
1  en] 

BY  J.  T.  FARNHAM,   l^^lj^^^^ro^^ 

AUTHOR  or   "  IBAVKLS  IN  TUK  OBEAT  TE8TEBN  PBAIBIE8,"   ETC.  lia 


Iv-  ^  V  ■  a.*!      v/  ,     r  ^.  "   >■•   »    i Vv\ 


gUusttattlr. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED    BY   JOHN    E.    POTTER, 

No.   617    8ANS0M    STREET. 
185  9. 


T 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1859,  by 

JOHN    E.    POTTER, 

In  the  Clerk's  OflBce  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  in 
and  for  the  Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


PREFACE. 


lar  1859,  by 

nited  States,  in 
inia. 


California  is  my  theme.  She  is  now  an  integral 
portion  of  this  great  Kepublic.  A  mighty  popula- 
tion from  all  parts  of  the  world  has  congregated  on 
her  shores,  and  with  giant  strides  she  marches  on 
to  power  and  greatness.  Her  mineral  wealth  seems 
inexhaustible,  vast  sums  of  gold  being  annually 
exported  to  the  Atlantic  States  and  elsewhere. 

But  a  few  short  years  and  her  condition  was 
widely  different.  With  but  a  sparse  white  popula- 
tion; with  a  government  hardly  existing  other  than 
in  name,  deeds  of  wrong,  of  violence,  and  of  blood 
were  of  constant  occurrence.  Of  this  interesting 
portion  of  her  history  comparatively  little  is  known ; 
and  it  is  of  this  period  that  I  propose  to  write.  To 
what  I  saw  and  heard  while  in  the  country  has 

(iii) 


It 


PREFACE. 


been  added  authentic  information  from  every  known 
source. 

We  may  learn  much  from  tlie  pulseless  soli- 
tudes— from  the  desert  untrodden  by  the  foot  of 
living  thing — from  the  frozen  world  of  mountains, 
whose  chasms  and  cliffs  never  echoed  to  aught  but 
the  thunder-tempests  girding  their  frozen  peaks — ■ 
from  old  Nature,  piled,  rocky,  bladeless,  toneless — 
if  we  will  allow  its  lessons  of  awe  to  reach  the 
mind,  and  impress  it  with  the  fresh  and  holy  images 
which  they  were  made  to  inspire. 

And  now,  dear  reader,  my  task  is  done.  Should 
you  laugh  and  weep,  suffer  and  rejoice,  with  the 
actors  in  the  wayfarings  before  you,  and  send  your 
fancy  in  after-times  over  those  rose-clad  realms 
where  they  will  lead  you,  and  feel  the  dews  of  a 
pleasant  remembrance  falling  on  your  life,  I  shall 
receive  a  Ml  reward  for  my  toil. 

Adieu. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


every  known 


Lilselcss  soli- 
the  foot  of 
F  mountains, 
to  aught  but 
zen  peaks — ■ 
IS,  toneless — 
o  reach  the 
.  holy  images 

>ne.  Should 
ce,  with  the 
id  send  your 
-clad  realms 
e  dews  of  a 
life,  I  shall 


lUTHOR. 


CONTENTS. 


I 


CHAPTER  I. 
The  frrnat   Pacific— A  Storm  at  Sea— Our  Crew  and  Com- 
pany— Various   Yarns — Old   Ocean   in  a   Rage — How  we 
turned  in, S 

CHAPTER  II. 

Pictures  of  Woe — The  Sack  of  Bones — Hia  Experiences  in 
California — The  Black  Cook  and  Scotch  Mate — Land,  ho! — 
Various  Emotions  produced — Honolulu  and  the  Professor 
of  Psalmody, 22 

CHAPTER  III. 

The  First  Visitors  to  the  Hawaiian  Islands — What  Civiliza- 
tion and  Christianity  has  done— On  the  Sea  again— Our 
Crew  and  Passengers— A  Squall — Land  ahead — California 
forever ! 37 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Brief  Whispers  of  a  Revolution — California  Officials — Famish- 
ing in  Prison — Isaac  Uraham  and  Viis  Men — Alvarado  in 
Power — Base  Treachery, 62 

CI'APTER  V. 

What  the  Prisoners  Said— John  Warner's  Story— The  Spec- 
tral Fleet  — The  Hardy  American  Trappers — The  Mock 
Trial — The  brave  Tennesscean  in  Despair — A  California 
Festa 70 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Vale  of  San  Carmelo— A  California  Lawyer — Long  Tom  Sas- 
safras—The Coast — El  Mission  Do  Santa  Barbara— The 
Prisoners  again — A  Friend  in  Need, 98 

CHAPTER  VIL 
California  as  it  was — The  Search  for  Gold — Wreck  and  Hor- 
rible Sufferings  of  Cortes'  People — The  Excitement  at  its 

Height— The  Star  of  Cortes  wanes 117 

(V) 


(M)  N  T  E  N  T8. 


ClIAPTKR  VIII. 

Hpimiab  Adventurers  again  —  'I'hcir  Fortnneg  and  Misfor- 
tunes — Indian  (Jourtesv — A  Tcrril)!c  Diaeusc-  -OfBcers  all 
Sick— A  Sovereign  IJalm  and  au  Aflectiug  Mcene 121 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Brilliant  Hopes  and  Small  Results— An  Intended  Massacre— 
A  Holy  Voyage  (Jommenced — Trouble  with  the  Indians — 
The  Padres  Triumphaut— Last  Days  of  S'ather  Kino, 149 

CHAPTER  X, 
The  Holy  Voyagers  ot  their  Work— A  Famine— The  First 
Execution  in  California — "What  one  Musket  did — Poison 
and  Death 168 

CHAPTER  XI. 

The  Padres  and  the  Indians — Hope  on,  Hope  ever — The  Good 
Father  Salva  Tierra — His  Sufferings  and  Death — Great 
Mourning — Thirty  Thousand  People  m  Prayer 189 

CHAPTER  XII. 
The  Wealth  of  Exhaustless  Energy— Triumph  of  the  Cross — 
Zeal  of  the  Padres  —  Frightful  Tempests  and  a  Water 
Spout 201 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
How  Father  Napoli  Discomfited  the  Indians — A  Band  of 
Depredators — A  Terrible  Storm — An  Indian  Force  and  a 
Victory — A  Voyage  of  Discovery — Another  Jonah  and  an 
Enormous  Shark 221 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Troubles  Thicken— The  Indians  in  Revolt— Brutal  Murder  of 
Father  Carranco — Infernal  Orgies-  Another  Murder — The 
Indians  to  the  Rescue — A  Victory  of  Love — California 
Shrouded  in  Gloom, 237 

CHAPTER  XV.    • 

Life  and  Light  again  for  California — Thieves  and  a  Fight — 
Death  of  Father  Junipero — What  California  was — Masterly 
Inactivity  of  Alvarado — Captain  Jose  Castro,  his  Intrepid 
Ally, 261 

CHAPTER  XVL 

War  with  the  United  States — Heroism  of  the  Americans — 
Various  Battles — Conquest — Discovery  of  Gold — On  the 
Pacific  again — Long  Tom  finishes  his  Yarn — Poor  Graham 
and  the  last  of  the  Prisoners — Home  again, 299 


nd  Misfor- 
OfTicers  all 
e 121 

Massacre — 
!  Indians — 
£ino, 149 

-The  First 
lid — Poison 
168 

-The  Good 
ath — Great 
189 

;he  Cross— 
1  a  Water 
201 

\.  Band  of 
orce  and  a 
lab  and  an 
221 

Murder  of 
irder — The 
-Calit'ornia 
237 

a  Fight— 
— Masterly 
is  Intrepid 
261 

mericans — 
d— On  the 
or  Graham 
299 


CHAP!  f.  R    I. 

A  Reminiscence — A  Spectacle — Oreg(  r.— _»vidward  and  Seaward— Th* 
Oreat  South  Sea — Mafjic  Palace — 'r«ki-«j  in  Studding-sails — Ciivem»— 
Storm  in  Full  Blast — Professor  of  Ps;..jn(Kly— Fur  Hunter — A  British 
Tar— An  Author— A  Sealx^it — A  Cor-iscrew — A  FlJ'Ron — A  Conversa- 
tion about  Life  in  the  Northwest — Its  Dors — Lo-js — I-VukI— Surface- - 
Lords  of  the  Noith— Fro/en  Mountains — Moss — Flowers — Potatoes, 
Oats  and  Barley — Indian  Wives  and  Sheep — The  AnUic  Shore — Suicide 
of  a  Brave  Man — A  Solo— Kel  Pond — Ghost  in  the  Shrouds — Tumn  '  in 
Upper  and  Lower  Ocean— Minor  Key — War-cry — Special  Pleading — 
The  Sea— Wine  and  Song — To  Bed. 

In  a  work  entitled  "Travels  in  the  Great  Western  Prairies," 
&c.,  to  which  the  following  pages  are  a  seiiuel,  I  left  my 
readers  off  ihe  ujoiith  of  Columbia  river,  in  sight  of  the 
green  coast  of  Oregon.  Lower  Oregon !  A  verdant  belt  of 
wild  loveliness  ! — A  great  park  of  flowering  shrubs,  of  forest 
pines,  and  clear  streams !  The  old  unchanged  home  of  the 
Indian ;  where  he  has  hunted  the  moose  and  deer ;  drawn 
ihe  trout  from  the  lake,  and  danced,  sung,  loved,  and  war- 
r«>d  away  a  thousand  generations.  I  cannot  desire  for  my- 
self any  reinembiances  of  the  Past  which  shall  bring  me  more 
genuine  wealth  of  pleasurable  emotions  than  those  which 
;ame  to  me  from  that  fourth  sunset  of  December,  1840,  when 
I  was  leaning  over  the  bulwarks  of  the  sliip  Vancruver, 
looking  back  on  Oregon, and  seaward  over  the  great  Pacific! 
A  spectacle  of  true  grandeur  !  The  cones  of  eternal  snow 
which  dot  the  green  heights  of  the  President's  range  of 
mountains,  rose  on  the  dark  outline  of  the  disiant  land,  and 


6 


SOENKS     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


hung  glittering  on  the  sky,  like  isIandH  of  preoious  stonoii ; 
BO  brightly  did  thoy  shine  in  the  Hotting  sun,  and  mo  coniph'tcly 
did  the  soft  clouds  around  their  basos  Boom  to  separate  them 
from  the  world  below  I 

Tlie  shores  of  Lower  Oregon  !  They  rise  so  boldly  from  tlio 
Bca !  Themselves  mountains  sparsely  clad  with  lofty  pines, 
spruce  and  cedar  trees,  nodding  over  the  deep  ! 

And  then  the  ground  nndcr  water  !  No  flats,  no  mud  hank* 
there.  Tho  cliffs  are  piled  up  from  the  bottom  of  tlie  occui 
The  old  Pacific,  witli  his  dark  depths,  lies  witliin  one  iiundrcd 
yards  of  them  !  And  the  surg(!3  that  run  in  from  tho  fury  of 
the  tempests,  roll  with  unbroken  force  to  tho  towering  rocks, 
and  breaking  with  all  their  momentum  at  once,  making  the  hind 
tremble,  and  send  far  seaward  a  migiity  chorus  to  tho  siiout- 
ing  storm  I 

The  Pacific  !  the  Great  South  Sea  I  It  was  heaving  at  our 
bows  I  steadily,  wave  on  wave  came  and  went  and  following  each 
other  in  ceaseless  march  pressed  onward  ;  like  the  world's  hosts 
in  marshaled  files,  they  hastened  past  us,  as  if  intent  to  reach 
the  solid  shores,  wiierc  some  resistance  would  broach  tlieir  hid- 
den strength  and  pour  their  fury  out ! 

Behold  the  sea  I  Its  troubled  wastes  are  bending  and  top- 
pling with  a  wild,  plashing,  friendly  sound ;  a  deep,  blue,  un- 
certain vastnoss ;  itself  cold  and  passive ;  but  under  the  lash  of 
the  tempest,  full  of  terrific  life !  Our  ship  stood  stauncli  upon 
the  palpitating  mass,  and  seemed  to  love  it. 

Mizcu  and  inizen-top,  main  and  main-top,  fore  and  fore-top- 
Bails,  and  the  lower  weather  studding-sails  were  out.  The  breeze 
from  the  land  which  had  carried  us  over  the  bar  still  held,  every 
thread  of  canvass  drew,  every  cord  was  tight,  and  as  wo  looked 
op  through  the  rigging  to  the  sky,  tho  sails,  cordage  and  masts 
swayed  under  the  clouds  like  the  roofing  of  some  magic  palace 
of  olden  tales.  All  hands  were  on  deck ;  both  watches  sat  about 
the  windlass ;  while  the  second  officer  and  mate  looked  at  tho 
horizon  over  the  weather-bow,  and  pointed  out  a  line  of  clouds 
crowding  ominously  up  the  southwestern  sky.     The  captain  stood 


I 


•cfious   stonofl ; 

1  HO  coinitlctcly 

Hepariitu  tlicut 

(oldly  from  tlio 
th   lofty  pines, 

no  ninil  bank* 

of     tlu)    OCCill 

I  QUO  hundred 

II  tlio  fury  of 
owcring  rocks, 
aking  tlui  land 

to  tho  tiliuut- 

leaving  at  our 
following  cacli 
I  world's  hosts 
[itcnt  to  re.'inh 
•ach  tiieir  hid- 

ding  and  top- 

?ep,   blue,  uu- 

Icr  tho  lash  of 

stauuuh  upoa 

and  fore-top- 
t.  The  breozo 
till  held,  every 

as  wo  looki'd 
ge  and  musta 
B  magic  paliu-o 
tches  sat  about 
looked  at  tho 
line  of  clouds 
i  captain  stood 


1 


TRAVELS     IN     THK     CAI.  ITORNIAS. 


npon  the  companion-way,  looking  at  the  barometer.  In  a  little 
time  ofiBcers  and  passengers  gathered  in  a  knot  on  the  larboard 
quarter. 

"  I  ken  there's  a  storm  comin'  up  frae  the  soo'est,"  said  the 

Scotch  mate. 

"  The  clouds  loom  fast,  sir,  in  that  quaiter,"  said  Mr.  New- 
ell, the  American  second-mate.  "  I  reckon  it  will  be  upon  ua 
soon." 

Captain  Duncan  needed  no  information  in  regard  to  the 
weather  on  these  shores.  He  was  everywhere  an  accomplished 
seaman.  On  the  quarter  deck — with  his  quadrant — on  the 
spars — and  at  the  halyards ;  but  especially  in  that  prophetic 
knowledge  of  the  weather,  which  gives  the  sons  of  Neptune  their 
control  over  the  elemnnts,  he  had  no  superiors 

"  Take  in  the  studding-sails  and  make  3II  fast  on  deck,"  is 
the  order,  issued  with  quietness  and  obeyed  with  alacrity. 
Water  casks,  long-boat,  and  caboose  are  lashed,  ropes  coiled  up 
and  hung  on  the  pins  in  the  bulwarks,  and  the  hatches  put  down 
in  storm  rig.  The  wind  before  which  we  were  running  abated, 
and  the  horizon  along  the  line  of  departing  light  began  to  lift  a 
rough  undulating  edge. 

"  Take  in  the  mainsail !"  "  Go  aloft  and  take  a  reef  in  the 
maintop  !"  "  In  with  the  fore-main,  and  let.  the  trysail  run  !" 
followed  each  other  in  haste,  as  the  sailors  moved  to  the  cheer- 
ing music  of  their  songs  in  the  work  of  preparing  the  ship  to 
wrestle  with  a  southwester.  Everything  being  made  snug,  wo 
waited  its  coming. 

The  rough  water  which  appeared  a  mere  speck  when  the  wind 
came  upon  the  circle  of  vision,  had  widened  till  its  extreme 
points  lay  over  the  bows.  On  it  came,  widening  and  elevating 
itself  more  and  more !  The  billows  had  previously  been  smooth, 
or  at  least  ruffled  sufficient  only  to  give  their  gentle  heaving 
sides  a  furzy  aspect,  while  the  tops  occasionally  rose  in  trans- 
parent combs,  which  immediately  crumbled  by  their  own  weight, 
into  foam  down  their  leeward  acclivities.  But  now  a  stronger 
spirit  had  laid  his  arm  on  these  ocean  coursers.     The  wind  came 


8 


SCENES'   IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


on,  steadily  increasing  its  might  from  moment  to  moment  I 
At  first  it  tore  the  tops  of  the  waves  into  ragged  linv .,  then 
rent  the  whole  surface  into  fragments  of  every  conceivable  form, 
which  rose,  appeared  and  vanished,  with  the  rapidity  of  thought, 
dancing  like  sprites  among  the  lurid  moving  caverns  of  the  sea  ! 
A  struggling  vastness  !  constantly  broken  by  the  flail  of  tlio 
tempest,  and  as  often  reunited,  to  be  cleft  still  farther  by  a  re- 
doubled blast. 

The  darkness  thickened  as  the  storm  increased;  and  when 
the  lanthorn  was  ligiited  in  the  binnacle,  and  tiie  night-watch 
set,  the  captain  and  passengers  went  below  to  tlieir  wine  and 
anecdotes.  Our  company  consisted  of  four  persons.  One  was 
a  singing-master,  from  Connecticut,  Texas,  New  Orleans,  and 
St.  Louis.  He  was  such  an  animal  as  one  would  wish  to  find 
if  he  were  making  up  a  human  menagerie  ;  so  positive  was  he 
of  step,  so  lofty  in  the  neck,  and  dignified  in  the  absurd 
blunders  wherewith  he  perpetually  corrected  the  opinions  and 
a.isertions  of  others. 

Anotiier  was  a  Mr.  Simpson,  a  young  Scotchman,  of  re- 
spectable family,  a  clerk  in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company.  Tiiis  was  a  fine  fellow,  twenty-five  years  of  age,  full 
of  energy  and  good  feeling,  well-informed  on  goiwral  topics,  and 
'ike  most  otiicr  JJritish  subjects  abroad,  troubled  with  an  irre- 
pressible anxiety  at  tlie  growing  power  of  the  States,  and  an 
overwhelming  loyalty  toward  the  mother  country  and  its  Sove- 
reign skirts.  The  other  personages  were  the  commander,  Dun- 
can, and  the  author. 

The  Captain  was  an  old  British  tar,  with  %  heart  full  of 
generosity  for  his  friends,  and  a  fist  full  of  bones  for  his  ene- 
mies. A  glass  of  cheer  with  a  messmate,  and  a  rope's  end 
for  a  disobedient  sailor,  were  with  him  impromptu  productions, 
for  which  he  had  capacity  and  judgment ;  a  hearty  five  foot 
nine  inch,  burly,  stout-chested  Englishman,  whom  it  was  always 
pleasant  to  see  and  hear. 

This  little  company  gathered  around  the  cabin  table,  and 
all  as  one  listened  a  moment  to  the  beatings  of  the  tempest. 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


3nt  to  momen*;  I 
Tged  liriv.,  then 
oiiceivablc  form, 
idity  of  thougbt, 
ems  of  the  sea  ! 
the  flail  of  tlie 
farther  by  a  re- 
used; and  when 
tlie  night-watch 
tlieir  wine  and 
•sous.     One  was 
w   Orleans,  and 
lid  wish   to  find 
positive  was  he 
in    the    absurd 
be  opinions  and 

itohman,  of  re- 
i  Hudson's  B.iy 
ears  of  age,  full 
wral  topics,  and 
id  with  an  irre- 
States,  and  an 
y  and  its  Sove- 
miiuander,  Dun- 

rn,  heart  full  of 
)nes  for  his  ene- 
d  a  rope's  end 
jtu  productions, 
iiearty  five  foot 
m  it  was  always 

abin  table,  and 
of  the  tempest. 


A  surge— another— and  a  third  still  heavier,  beat  upon  llie  no- 
ble ship,  and  sent  a  thrill  through  every  timber.  On  they  roll- 
ed, and  dashed,  and  groaned.  But  her  iron  heart  only  seemed  to 
gather  strength  from  the  conflict,  and  inspire  us  with  a  feeling 
of  perfect  safety. 

"  A  fine  sea-boat  is  the  Vancouver,  gentlemen,"  said  Captain 
Duncan,  "  she  rides  the  storm  like  a  petrel :"  and  with  this  com- 
fortable assurance  we  seated  ourselves  at  the  table. 

I  had  nearly  forgotten  Tom,  the  cabin-boy  ;  a  mere  mouse  of 
a  lad ;  who  knew  the  rock  of  a  ship  and  the  turn  of  a  corkscrew 
as  well  as  any  one;  and  as  he  was  spry,  had  a  short  name, 
a  quick  ear,  and  bore  the  keys  to  the  sideboard  and  some 
things  elsewhere,  all  well-bred  stomachs  would  not  fail  to 
blast  my  quill,  if  I  omitted  to  write  his  name  and  draw  his  por- 
trait. 

Well,  Tom  was  one  of  those  sons  of  old  England,  who  aro 
born  to  the  inheritance  of  poverty,  and  a  brave  heart  for  the 
Bcas.  Like  many  thousand  children  of  the  Fatherland,  when 
the  soil  refused  him  bread,  he  was  apprenticed  for  the  term  of 
seven  years  to  seamanship.  And  there  he  was,  an  English 
sailor-boy,  submitting  to  the  most  rigorous  discii)line,  serving 
the  first  part  of  his  time  in  learning  to  keep  his  cabin  in  order, 
and  wait  at  the  table,  that  when,  as  he  was  taught  to  expect,  he 
should  have  a  ship  of  his  own,  he  might  know  how  to  be  served 
like  a  gentleman.  This  part  of  his  apprenticeship  he  performed 
admirably.  And  when  he  shall  leave  the  cork-screw  and  the 
locker  for  the  quarter-deck,  I  doubt  not  he  will  scream  at  a 
Btorm,  and  utter  his  commands  with  sufficient  itnperiousness  to 
entitle  him  to  have  a  Tom  of  his  own. 

"  Tom,"  said  Captain  Duncan,  "  bring  out  a  flagon  of  Jar 
niaica,  and  set  on  the  glasses,  lad.  This  storm,  gentlemen,  calla 
for  cheers.  When  Neptune  labors  at  this  pace,  he  loves  his 
dram.  Fill,  gentlemen,  to  absent  wives."  This  compliment  to 
the  sacred  ascendency  of  the  domestic  affections  was  timely 
given.     The  storm  howled  hideously,  for  our  lives,  our  families 


10 


SCENES    IN    THE     PACIFIC. 


were  far  distant  over  seas  and  mountains,  the  hear'  was  pressed 
with  sadness :  we  drank  in  silence  and  with  swimming  eyes. 

A  pleasant  conversation  followed  this  toast,  in  which  each  one 
of  our  little  band  exhibited  himself  in  his  own  way.  The  Cap- 
tain was  a  hearty  old  Saxon,  who  had  inherited  from  a  thousand 
generations,  a  love  for  home,  its  hearth  and  blazing  evening  fire, 
its  old  oaken  table,  its  family  arm-chair,  and  the  wife  who 
presided  over  that  temple  of  holy  affections.  In  him,  therefore, 
we  had  the  genuine  spirit  of  those  good  old  times  when  man 
used  his  physical  and  mental  powers,  to  build  about  his  heart 
the  structures  of  positive  happiness,  instead  of  the  artificial  sem- 
blances of  these,  which  fashion  and  affectation  draw  around  the 
modern  home. 

Our  professor  of  psalmody  was  the  opposite  of  this.  He  had, 
when  the  red  blood  of  youth  warmed  his  heart  in  the  ways  of 
honest  nature,  spoken  sweet  things  to  a  lovely  girl,  won  her 
affections,  promised  marriage,  and  as  his  beard  grew  became  a 
gentleman  ;  that  is,  jilted  her.  He,  therefore,  was  fond  of  free- 
dom, could  not  be  confined  to  so  plain  and  quiet  a  business  as 
the  love  of  one  woman,  and  the  care  of  a  family  of  children. 
"  It  was  quite  horrid,  indeed  it  was,  for  a  man  who  had  any 
mufaic  in  his  soul ;  the  mere  idea  was  concentrated  j^icra  to  his 
moral  stomach  ;  the  thought,  bah  !  that  a  gentleman  could  ever 
think  of  being  a  daddy,  and  trotting  on  his  paternal  knee  a  semi- 
yearling  baby." 

Mr.  Simpson  was  from  the  braes  of  Scotland.  For  many 
years  he  had  lived  an  isolated  and  roving  life,  among  the  nows, 
morasses,  and  lakes  of  the  wilderness,  whicji  lies  west  and  north- 
west of  Hudson's  Bay.  He  had  been  taught  his  catechism  at 
kirk,  and  also  a  proper  respect  for  the  ties  of  the  domestic  senti- 
ments.  But  the  peculiar  idea  of  manliness^ which  grows  up  in 
those  winter  realms  of  danger,  privation,  and  loneliness,  had 
gradually  habituated  him  to  speak  of  these  relations  as  desirable 
mainly  when  the  body  had  expended  its  energy  in  striding 
mountains,  in  descending    rocky    torrents  with  boats  laden 


ai 
I 
ti 
t1 
a 
\ 
ii 
o 
C 

g 
f. 

r 

t 

0 

P 

0 

II 
r 
t 
I 
c 
a 

V 

t 
1 
1 
c 
1 
I 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALirORNIAS. 


11 


ar^  was  presHod 
iming  eyes, 
which  each  one 
ray.  The  Cap- 
Tom  a  thousand 
ing  eveuiug  fire, 
the  wife  who 
I  him,  therefore, 
imes  when  maa 
about  his  heart 
le  artificial  sein- 
Iraw  around  the 

'  this.  Ho  had, 
in  the  ways  of 
y  girl,  won  her 
grew  became  a 
ras  fond  of  free- 
st a  business  as 
lily  of  children, 
.n  who  had  any 
ted  picra  to  his 
iman  could  ever 
nal  knee  a  semi- 

nd.  For  many 
imong  the  nows, 
west  and  north- 
lis  catechism  at 
I  domestic  senti- 
lich  grows  up  in 
loneliness,  had 
ons  as  desirable 
rgy  in  striding 
th  boats  laden 


with  furs,  and  in  the  other  bold  enterprises  of  these  daring 

traders. 

From  him  we  obtained  a  description  of  some  portions  of 
that  vast  country  occupied  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company; 
and  some  information  on  other  topics  connected  with  it. 
Life  in  the  Company's  service  was  briefly  described.  Their 
traveling  is  performed  in  various  ways  at  different  seasons  of 
the  year  and  in  different  latitudes.  In  Oregon  their  journeys 
are  chiefly  made  in  Mackinaw  boats  and  Indian  canoes. 
With  these  they  ascend  and  descend  the  various  streams,  bear- 
ing their  cargoes,  and  often  their  boats,  from  the  hei^d-waters 
of  one  to  those  of  aiiotlier.  In  this  manner  they  pass  up  the 
Cowelitz  and  descend  the  Chiliilis  with  their  furs  and  other 
goods ;  thus  do  they  roach  the  heiid-waters  of  the  northern 
fork  of  the  Columbia,  pass  over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
run  down  the  rivers  and  lakes  to  Canada.  Farther  north  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  range,  they  travel  much 
on  foot  in  summer,  and  in  winter  (wliich  is  there  the  greatest 
part  of  the  year)  on  sledges  drawn  by  dogs.  Ten  or  twelve 
of  these  animals  are  attached  to  a  liglit  sledge,  in  which  the 
man  sits  wrapped  in  furs  and  surrounded  by  meat  for  his  cai*- 
nivorous  steeds  and  provisions  for  himself.  Thus  rigged,  the 
train  starts  on  the  hard  snow  crust,  and  make  eighty  or  one 
hundred  miles  before  the  dogs  tire.  When  the  time  for  rest 
comes,  they  are  unharnessed,  fed,  tied  to  the  bushes  or  shrubs, 
and  the  traveler  enveloped  in  furs,  addresses  himself  to  sleep 
under  the  lea  of  a  snow-bank  or  precipitous  rock.  When  na- 
ture is  recruited,  the  train  is  again  harnessed  and  put  on  route. 
The  Aurora  Borealis,  which  flames  over  the  skies  of  those 
latitudes,  illuminates  the  country  so  well,  that  the  absence 
of  the  sun  during  the  winter  months  offers  no  obstacles  to 
these  journeyings.  Drawn  by  dogs  over  mountain  and  plain, 
under  heavens  filled  with  electric  crackling  liglit,  the  traveler 
feels  that  his  situation  harmonizes  well  with  the  sublime 
desolatioQ  of  that  wintry  zone.      In  this  manner  these   ad- 


12  BCENESIWTHEPACI      IC. 

vpiiturous  men  travel  from  the  mouth  of  Mackenzio's  river 
to  York  on  Hudson's  Bay  and  to  Canada. 

Their  dwellings  are  usually  constructed  of  logs  in  the 
form  of  our  frontier  cabins.  They  are  generally  surrounded 
bv  pickets,  and  in  other  respects  arranged  so  as  to  resist  any 
attack  which  the  neighboring  savages  may  make  upon  them. 
They  are  usually  manned  by  an  officer  of  the  Company  and 
a  few  Canadian  Frenchmen.  In  these  rude  castles,  rismg 
m  the  midst  of  the  frozen  north,  live  the  active  and  fearless 
gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company.  The  frosts  of  the 
poles  caV  neither  freeze  the  blood  nor  the  nergy  of  men 
who  spring  from  the  little  Island  of  Britain.  The  torrid, 
the  temperate,  and  the  frozen  zones  alike  hear  the  language 
and  acknowledge  the  power  of  thai  wonderful  race. 

The  food  of  these  traders  is  as  rude  as  their  mode  of  life.  At 
most  of  the  Forts  they  live  almost  exclusively  on  the  white 
and  other  kinds  of  fish  ;  no  vegetables  of  any  description  are 
obtainable ;  an  occasional  deer  orwoods  buffalo  or  musk  ox  is 
procured  ;  but  seldom  is  their  fare  changed  from  the  produce 
of  the  lakes  and  streams.    At  a  few  of  their  stations  not  even 
these  can  be  had ;  and  the  company  is  obliged  to  supply  them 
with  pemican.    This  is  buffalo  meat  dried,  finely  pulverized, 
mixed  with  fat  and  service  berries,  and  secured  in  leathern 
sacks.     They  transport  this  from  latitudes  forty-eight  and 
nine  to  different  places  on  Mackenzie's  river,  and  other  parts 
of  the  extreme  north.     Wild  fowls,  geese  and  ducks  afford 
another  means  of  subsistence.     At  York  and  other  posts  m 
the  neighborhood  of  lakes,  large  numbers  of  these  fowl  are 
taken  in  the  summer  season,  and  salted  for  winter  use.     But 
with  all  their  painstaking,  these  gentlemen  live  but  poorly  ; 
on  a  diet  of  flesh  alone,  and  that  of  an  indifferent  quality. 
Hardy  men  are  these  lords  of  the  snow.     Their  realm  em 
braces  one-ninth  of  the  earth.     This  immense  territory  Mr. 
Simpson  informed  us  has  a  great  variety  of  surface. 

On  the  north-eastern  portion  lie  extensive  tracts  of  per 
petually  frozen  mountains,  cut  by  narrow  valleys  filled  with 


f 

o 

0 

o 

ii 

1 
t 

8 

C 


1 


TRAVELS    IN     THE    CALIFOBNIAB. 


13 


I     I  c. 

f  Mackenzie's  river 
da. 

cted  of  logs  in  the 
[onerally  surrounded 
red  so  as  to  resist  any 
lay  make  upon  them, 
of  the  Company  and 
;  rude  castles,  rising 
le  active  and  fearless 
y.     The  frosts  of  the 
•  the     nergy  of  men 
Britain.     The  torrid, 
ike  hear  the  language 
onderful  race, 
their  mode  of  life.  At 
lusively  on  the  white 
of  any  description  are 
3  buffalo  or  musk  ox  is 
iged  from  the  produce 
heir  stations  not  even 
)bliged  to  supply  them 
ied,  finely  pulverized, 
id  secured  in  leathern 
tudes  forty-eight  and 
s  river,  and  other  parts 
;eese  and  ducks  afford 
ork  and  other  posts  in 
ibers  of  these  fowl  are 
d  for  winter  use.     But 
lemen  live  but  poorly  ; 
an  indifferent  quality. 
)W.     Their  realm  em 
!  immense  territory  Mr. 
iety  of  surface, 
xtensivo  tracfs  of  per 
irrow  valleys  fiUod  witJi 


fallen  cliffs,  among  which  dash  and  roar  numerojs  riveti 
on  their  way  to  the  frozen  sea.  Scarcely  any  timber  or 
other  vegetation  grows  in  these  wastes.  A  lonely  evergreen 
or  a  stunted  white  birch  takes  root  here  and  there,  and  dur- 
ing the  few  weeks  of  summer,  mosses  and  linchens  pre- 
sent a  few  verdant  spots  in  the  damp  recesses  of  the  rocks. 
But  cold  winds,  laden  with  hail  and  sleet,  howl  over  the 
budding  of  every  green  thing  !  The  flowers  can  scarcely 
show  their  petals  and  set  their  seeds,  before  winter  with  itd 
cracking  ices  and  falling  snow  embraces  them  ! 

The  section  of  country  which  lies  about  Mackensie'g 
river,  differs  from  that  described,  in  having  dense  forests 
•kirtmg  portions  of  the  valleys,  and  large  plains  ot  moss 
ind  linchen,  on  which  feed  the  deer,  buffalo,  musk-ox  and 
moose.  The  river  itself  is,  in  summer  months,  navigable 
'or  batteaux  several  hundred  miles.  It  is  well  stored  with 
trout,  salmon,  white  and  other  fish.  But  the  winters  there 
also  scarcely  end.  before  they  begin  again  their  work  of 
freezing  land,  strt  am,  and  sea. 

The  extensive  country  lying  on  the  head  waters  of  the 
streams  which  run  northward  into  the  Frozen  Ocean,  east- 
ward into  Hudson's  Bay,  and  southward  into  the  Canadian 
waters,  is  composed  of  swamps,  broken  at  intervals  with 
piles  of  boulders  and  minor  mountains,  and  dotted  with 
clumps  of  bushes,  plots  of  hassocks,  and  fields  of  wild  rice. 
The  waters  of  these  taM-  lands  form  many  lakes  and  lofty 
cascades  on  the  way  to  their  several  destinations.  The 
roar  of  these  on  the  dreadful  frozen  barrenness  around,  Mr. 
Simpson  represented  to  be  awful  in  the  extreme  ;  so  wild, 
hoarse,  and  ringing  are  their  echoes. 

We  are  informed  that  there  are  considerable  tracts  of 
arable  land  on  the  western  side  of  Hudson's  Bay,  occupied 
by  several  settlements  of  Scotch :  that  these  people  culti- 
vate nothing  but  potatoes,  oats,  barley,  and  some  few  garden 
vegetables ;  and  are  altogether  in  a  very  undesirable  con- 
dition.     He  also  informed  us  of  a  tra^t  of  tillable  landi 


14 


BOENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


1       i 


lying  some  hundreds  of  miles  north-east  of  Lake  Superior,  on 
which  Lord  Selkirk  had  founded  a  colony  ;  tliat  thJH  scttlciiient 
contains  about  three  thousand  peopJo  composed  chiefly  nf  gentle- 
men and  servants,  who  have  retired  from  the  Company's  ser- 
vice with  their  Indian  wives  and  half-breed  children.  They 
cultivate  considerable  tracts  of  land,  have  cattle  and  horses, 
schools  and  churches,  a  Catholic  IJisiiop  and  a  Protestant 
preacher  of  the  English  Church.  Some  years  since,  a  Mr. 
McLeod,  from  this  Kettlemcnt,  went  to  Indiana  and  purchased  ^■ 
very  large  drove  of  sheep  fof  ts  use.  IJut  in  driving  tiiem  a 
thousand  miles  over  the  prairies,  their  fleeces  became  so  matted 
with  poisonous  bum,  that  most  of  them  died  before  reaching 
their  place  of  destination. 

Mr.  Simpson  related  a  few  incidents  of  an  exploring  expedi- 
tion, which  the  Company  had  despatched  to  the  northern  coast 
of  America.  The  unsatisfactory  results  of  those  fitted  out  by 
the  homo  government,  under  Parry,  Franklin,  Iloss,  and  Back, 
whioh  had  been  partially  furnished  with  men  and  means  by  the 
Company,  led  it  at  length  to  undertake  one  alone.  To  this  end 
it  despatched,  in  1838,  one  of  its  oflficers,  aceom{)anied  by  our 
friend  Simpson's  brother,  well  furnished  with  men,  instruments, 
and  provisions,  on  this  hazardous  enterprise.  I  have  since 
be.m  informed,  that  this  Mr.  Simpson  was  a  man  of  groat 
energy  and  talent — the  one  indeed  on  whom  the  Company  relied 
fo.  the  success  of  the  undertaking.  From  his  brother  I  learned 
only  that  the  unexplored  part  of  the  coast  was  surveyed,  that 
the  waters  of  Davis'  Strait  were  found  to  flow  with  a  strong 
current  westward,  and  enter  the  Pacific  through  Behring's 
Strait ;  and  that  Greenland  consequently  is  an  island  or  con- 
tinent by  itself  I  The  Mr.  Simpson  of  this  expedition  is  now 
known  to  the  civilized  world  to  have  trodden  the  ices  and 
snows,  and  breathed  the  frozen  air  of  that  horrid  shore ;  and  by 
BO  doing  to  have  added  these  great  facts  to  the  catalogue  of 
human  knowledge ;  and  having  become  deranged  in  consequence 
of  his  inoredible  sufEerings,  to  have  blown  out  his  own  brains 


0 

ft 

0 

w 

d 

0 

a 

C( 

ri 

fa 

S 

V 

w 

fi 

Be 

BC 

h 

ei 

ti 

P 

fi, 

a1 

ui 

h 

ta 

ai 

I 

ti 

01 

St 

as 

ti 

J 

d 

[  0. 


TRAVELS      IN     THE     CAMFORNtAB, 


IS 


Lake  Superior,  on 

liat  thirt  sottlfinent 
1  chiefly  (rf  gentle- 
,e  Company's  ser- 
cliildron.  They 
lattle  aud  horses, 
kiid  a  Protestaut 
ars  since,  a  Mr. 
a  aud  purchased  ^ 
in  driving  tiieiu  a 
became  so  matted 
id  before  reaching 

exploring  expedi- 
:he  northern  coast 
losc  fitted  out  by 

Koss,  and  Back, 
xnd  means  by  the 
jne.  To  this  end 
om{)anied  by  our 
nan,  instruments, 
I   have   since 

a  man  of  groat 
B  Company  relied 
brother  I  learned 
ras  surveyed,  that 
ow  with  a  strong 
trough  Behring'a 
an  island  or  con- 
ixpedition  is  now 
ien  the  ices  aud 
id  shore ;  and  by 
the  catalogue  of 
id  in  consequenoe 
i  his  own  brains 


on  the  field  of  his  glorious  deeds.  Our  companion,  poor 
fellow,  was  happily  ignorant  of  tiiat  sad  event,  and  spoko 
of  the  expedition  only  as  one  of  groat  liardsliip,  yet  such  as  he 
would  have  gladly  shared.  II is  brave  kinsman  was  then 
dead  I 

When  Mr.  Simpson  paused  in  those  interesting  narrations, 
our  proft«sor  of  psalmody,  who  had  been  beating  the  table  with 
a  tuning-fork,  opeued  a  solo  upon  Texts.  He  had  been  in  that 
country,  and  was,  in  his  own  estimation,  as  familiar  with  its 
rivers,  plains,  forests  and  destiny,  as  with  the  paths  across  his 
fatljer's  slieep  pasture.  Galveston  was  a  London  in  embryo  : 
Sam  Houston  had  inherited  the  knee-buckles  and  shoe-knots  of 
Washington's  patriotism  :  the  whole  country  was  an  Eden  in 
which  he  had  obtained  the  best  sight  for  a  grist-mill  and  the 
finest  pond  for  eels !  In  short,  we  were  informed  in  a  tone  of 
self-consequence,  at  least  an  octave  above  mi,  on  any  known 
scale  of  conceit,  thai  himself  and  a  brace  of  fellow  blades,  on 
hearing  that  the  government  had  offered  a  bounty  of  land  to 
emigrants,  went  thitlier,  remained  long  enough  to  perfect  their 
title  to  a  share  of  the  public  domain,  and  were  then  obliged  by 
pressing  business  to  return  to  the  States  and  leave  others  to 
fight  and  die  for  freedom. 

He  had  a  belief  that  the  Californias  would  make  a  respectable 
abode  for  man,  if  it  were  conquered  by  a  bold  arm,  a  little 
music,  and  made  into  a  Republic  by  a  man,  he  did  not  mention 
hie  own  name,  whose  character  for  bravery,  intelligence  and 
taste  for  the  fine  arts,  ho  did  not  say  psalmody,  would  draw 
around  him  the  unemployed  intellect  aud  courage  of  the  States. 
In  conclusion  he  modestly  remarked,  that  he  himself  was  des- 
tined to  the  Californias,  but  did  not  say  that  he  intended  to 
open  there  a  revolutionary  singing-school. 

While  this  conversation  was  going  on,  the  good  old  ship  waa 
struggling  with  the  tempest.  She  headed  north-westerly,  and 
as  the  storm  and  swells  came  from  the  south-west,  she  at  one 
time  lay  in  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and  then,  as  the  wave  bore 
down  upon  her,  swayed  to  the  leeward  a  moment,  rocked  udou 


18 


BCCNKB     IN     THE     PAOlFIO. 


its  Mimmit,  and  as  tho  snrfre  pnsscd  on,  reeled  to  the  windw.iM 
and  slid  into  tho  trougli  iiKiiiii.  This  \»  the  bitterest  motion 
of  a  siiip  at  sea,  whetiior  lie  wiiom  it  stiirrjrcrs  be  a  "  land  lub- 
bcr"  or  "  salt."  Tlie  latter  finds  it  difficult  to  take  his  watch- 
walk  from  tho  windlass  to  tho  fore-stays,  and  swears  that  such  a 
lullaby  is  as  unworthy  of  tho  ocean  god  as  it  is  unseemly  for  a 
decent  sailor,  to  stand,  at  ono  instant  with  one  leg  clewed  up 
and  the  other  out,  and  the  next  clewed  tho  other  way,  and  bo 
compelled,  at  each  change,  to  brace  himself  back  in  the 
attitude  of  being  frightened  to  death  by  a  ghost  in  the 
shrouds. 

Tho  landsman,  may  perhaps  feel  too  much  awe  to  swear  at 
the  great  deep,  employed  in  its  sublime  labors ;  or  if  he  dare 
profane  thus  the  majesty  of  his  Maker's  movements,  his  noble 
self  is  usually  the  objert  nf  so  much  solicitude  as  to  deny  him 
any  adeciuato  opportunity  of  doing  so.  His  stomach  will  de- 
mand much  of  the  attention  which  he  would  fain  bestow  upon 
other  objects ;  and  it  will  ."carccly  be  n'fiised  what  it  requires. 
We  sat  at  tiic  table  till  eight  bells.  A  deliglitful  chit-chat  we  had  ; 
such  a  variety  of  wisdom,  such  splendor  of  reminiscence,  such 
bolts  of  reason  rending  and  laying  bare  all  the  mines  of  thought 

W..re  there! 

But  this  and  all  that  we  had  in  expectancy  that  night  ended 
not  in  smoke ;  that  would  have  been  land-like  ;  but  in  a  stealthy 
withdrawal  of  our  company,  one  at  a  time,  to  pay  their  tribute 
to  Padre  Neptune.  The  singiiig  master  struck  min/yr  key  first ; 
the  fur  hunter  followed  with  his  war-cry ;  the  Green  Mountain 
lawyer  came  to  the  encounter  with  a  throat  full  of  special  plead- 
ing ;  and  after  a  hot  melee  each  surrendered,  on  such  terms  aa 
he  could  procure,  all  claim  to  the  inborn  rights  of  a  quiet 
stomach  and  clean  nose ;  and  turned  in.  The  night  was  passed 
by  us  in  the  cabin  in  clinging  to  our  berths.  The  seamen 
on  deck  struck  the  bells,  changed  the  watch,  and  stood  out 
like  iron  men  on  the  tide  of  that  terrible  tempest!  Their 
thrilling  "  0  he  oe"  occasionally  cut  sharply  and  cheeriugly 


m 
ot 

bi 

«l 

tl 

tl 
cii 

«I 

tc 

t^ 
tl 
I 

P' 
t( 

h 

n 

SI 

tl 

Ci 

1; 
(i 

8 

i 

i( 
n 
1 

] 

1 
I 


0. 


TRAVELS     IN     T»!E     CALIFOIINIAS. 


17 


1  to  tlie  windw.«rd 
bittercHt  motion 
be  a  "  lai>d  lub- 

0  take  his  watch* 
wearH  that  such  a 
18  unseemly  for  a 
ne  leg  clewed  up 
other  way,  and  be 
self    back   in    the 

a  ghost    in   the 

h  awe  to  swear  at 
i)rs  ;  or  if  he  dnro 
vements,  his  noblo 
Ic  as  to  deny  him 
s  stomaeh  will  de- 
fiiin  bestow  upon 
J  what  it  requires. 

1  chit-chat  we  had  ; 
reminiscence,  such 
le  mines  of  thought 

y  that  night  ended 
;  but  in  a  stealthy 
0  pay  their  tribute 
ck  min/rr  key  first ; 
e  Green  Mountain 
ill  of  special  plead- 
1,  on  such  terms  as 

rights  of  a  quiet 
le  night  was  passed 
ths.  The  seamen 
tch,  and  stood  out 

tempest!  Their 
)ly  and  cheeriugly 


into  the  Imarso  cadences  of  tiio  storm  !     Kvery   otlier  sound 
of  living  thing  was  buried  in  tlie  clangor  of  the  elements. 

The  next  morning  opened  with  gloomy  grandeur.  The  clouds 
brightened  by  the  first  rays  of  the  sun  in  delaclied  spots  only, 
appearing  and  disappearing  in  rapid  succession,  intimated  tluit 
the  whole  mass  of  ajrial  fluid  was  fleeing  at  a  fearful  pace  before 
the  unabated  tempest.  As  the  light  increased  into  full  day,  the 
canooy  liung  so  dark  and  densely  down  the  heavens,  that  night 
appeared  to  have  retained  the  half  of  its  dominion.  It  need  not 
touch  the  water  as  fogs  do ;  but  the  massive  heavy  fold  left  be- 
tween itself  and  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  a  spaco  apparently 
three  hundred  yards  in  depth.  That  was  a  siglit  to  wonder  at. 
I  could  conceive  of  nothing  in  nature  so  far  beyond  the 
power  of  words  to  portray.  Does  the  simile  of  a  boundlcsi 
tomb,  vaulted  with  mourning  crape,  shaken  by  fierce  winds, 
half  lighted,  filled  with  death-screams,  represent  it  ?  I  can- 
not tell :  but  such  an  idea  rose  as  I  looked  out  upon  the 
scene. 

Old  Ocean,  too,  was  in  a  glorious  mood.  I  have  often  seen 
the  Atlantic  lay  with  his  mighty  bosom  heaving  to  the  sky, 
calm  and  peaceful  like  a  benevolent  giant  slumbering  on  a 
world  of  lesser  things ;  or,  to  use  no  figure,  I  had  seen  it  slight- 
ly agitated,  every  particle  tremulous  under  a  soft  breeze,  every 
drop  sending  back  the  sunshine,  or  multiplying  iudefinitoly  the 
stars  of  a  clear  June  night.  I  had  seen  it  when  the  swells  were 
torn  by  a  "  dry  squall,"  or  an  hour's  "  blow,"  and  hoard  itn 
icebergs  crack  and  plunge ;  and  seen  its  fearful  waterspouts 
marching  so  near  me  that  I  could  hear  their  awful  roar! 
But  I  had  not  seen  it  raised  and  rent,  in  the  height  of  its  tu- 
mult and  power.  All  this  was  now  before  me  in  the  great 
Pacific. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  storm  had  gained  its  utmost  strength. 
The  ship  was  laid  to.  The  waves  were  dashing  over  her 
bulwarks.  The  Captain  was  standing  braced  upon  the  weatlier 
quarter,  dressed  in  a  long  pea-jacket,  stout  sea-pants  and 
boots,  an   oil-cloth  cap  covering  head   and  shoulders.      The 


18 


SCENES     IN     T  II  i:     r  A  C  I  F  I  c . 


wntch  on  duty  were  hud.ilrd  under  the  weather  how  imd  lanhed 
to  tlie  staj'H  to  prevent  heiiig  washed  overhoaid.  The  second 
mate  stood  midHliip,  hohling  funt  to  the  ripffing.  All  wero 
looking  Bt  the  storm.  The  ship  herself  lay  like  a  lost  water 
hird,  rising,  falling,  buried  and  mounting  again,  among  the  over- 
whelming waves. 

The  appearaneo  of  the  sea!— Who  can  describe  it?  Liko 
the  land,  it  had  its  valleys,  and  mountains,  and  streams. 
But  its  vales,  instead  of  flowers  and  praswes,  wero  cover- 
ed with  wisps  of  torn  water;  the  mountains  instead  of 
snowy  peaks,  wero  billows,  crested  with  combs  of  light  blue 
water,  tipped  with  foam,  perpetually  tumbling  down  and 
forming  again,  as  the  floods  rushed  on,  lashing  one  another. 
And  the  Btreams  were  not  such  as  flow  through  meadows 
and  woodlands  anwng  creeping  flower  vines;  but  swift 
eddies,  whirling  through  the  heaving  caverns  of  the  sea. 

Its  voice!     Its  loud  bass  notes !— What  is  liko  it?     Not 
the  voice  of  the  storms  which  assemble  with  lightning,  thunder 
and   wind,   and   pour    devastating   hail    and   fire   on    the    up- 
per heights  »nd  vales  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.      Nor   is   it 
like  the  deep   monitory    groan   that   booms   down   the   Great 
Prairie  Wilderness  at  midnight,  growing  louder  as  it  draws  near, 
uutil  the  accumulated  electricity  ignites  in  one  awful  explosion, 
rending  the  clouds  and  tearing  up  the  shaken  ground  1     Nor  is 
it  liko  the  voice  of  Niagara.     That  great  cataract  of  the  earth 
has   a   majestic  stave,   a  bold   sound,   as   it   leaps  from   the 
poised  brink    to    the    whirling    depths    below!      And   when 
the    ancient     woods,    with     all     their,    leafy     canopies      and 
ringing  crags,   stood   up    around    it,  and    neither   the   ham- 
mer of    the    smith,  nor    other    din   of    cultivated   life,   cast 
its  vexing  discords  among  the  echoes,  the  sounds  of  Niagara 
must  have  resembled  this  sublime  duett  of  the  sea  and  storm  ; 
but  never   equalled   it!      It   was   a   single   note   of   nature's 
lofty   hymns.      To  the  ear   of    the   Indian  who   stood   upon 
the  shelving   rocks   and  heard   it;  who  siw  the  floods  come 
coursing  down  the  rapids,  bend  upon  the  brink,  and  plunge 


til 
ati 
II 
Bt 

an 


ai 


)i()W  mill  lanhud 
(1.  Tlie  scoond 
;ing.  All  were 
iko  a  lost  water 
among  the  over- 

icribo  it?  Liko 
H,  and  HtrciiinB. 
les,  wero  covcr- 
uitis  iuHteud  uf 
bB  of  light  blue 
)ling  down  and 
ing  one  another. 
Iirough  meadows 
ines;    but    swift 

of  tho  Hoa. 
8  liko  it?  Not 
iglituing,  thunder 
fire  on  tho  \ip- 
ins.  Nor  is  it 
down  the  Great 
r  as  it  draws  near, 
)  awful  explosion, 
ground !  Nor  is 
iract  of  the  earth 

leaps  from  the 
ow !  And  when 
r  canopies  and 
neither  the  ham- 
tivatcd  life,  cast 
)unds  of  Niagara 
e  sea  and  storm  ; 
note   of    nature's 

who  stood  upon 
r  the  floods  come 
>rink,  and  plunge 


r 


TRAVEI-f«     IN     THE     CALirutNIAf. 


19 


plunge  with  ciuickencd  Mpcrd  into  the  vexed  caldron,  soiidiiii; 
tlieir  peiils  to  tho  rainliowed  heaven,  they  must  have  borne  aii 
antiiem  as  grand  as  his  wild  mind  could  compaHH — greater  even. 
His  bow  must  have  dropped,  and  himself  nnil  the  unharmed  deer 
stood  together,  in  mute  wonder  at  Niagara  ehanting  to  tho  shudei 
and  silenee  of  the  old  American  WilderncKS  ! 

Hut  tho  song  of  tho  sea!  Is  it  not  more  thon  this  ?  Miles 
in  deptii  ;  h\indreds  of  leagues  in  breadth ;  nn  immensity  drop 
on  drop  and  mass  on  muss  in  motion  !  Tiie  tempest  piles  up 
the  surface  into  lofty  ridges,  every  inch  of  which  emits  a  peeuliar 
li(|uid  sound,  which,  mingling  sweetly  with  each  other  far  and 
wide,  pulsates  through  tho  surrounding  air  and  water  !  Sweet 
and  boundless  melodies  of  the  seas !  We  know  that  the  incum- 
bent air  takes  up  a  part  of  them,  while  another  part  goes  down 
into  the  still  and  motionless  depths  below ;  the  sublime  un- 
broken  darkness  of  the  sea  !  It  was  unpleasant  to  feel  that  tho 
screaming  cordage  of  our  ships  and  the  ((uarreling  of  the  hull 
and  tho  waves,  should  deprive  us  of  hearing  the  tones  of  the 
Pacific  waters,  during  the  strength  of  a  hurricane,  unmarrod  by 
any  other  sound.  Can  it  ever  bo  given  nmn  to  hear  it  ?  It  is 
the  Creator's  great  choir  I  Ocean  tuned  by  II is  own  hand,  and 
swept  by  the  fingers  of  his  tempest  I 

Our  good  ship,  carrying  barely  sail  enough  to  make  her  obey 
the  helm,  beat  from  tho  southeast  to  the  northwest.  On  the 
outward  tack  we  generally  made  a  few  miles  on  our  course,  a 
part  of  which  we  lost  on  tho  other.  It  was  vexatious  to  bo 
buffetted  thus  to  no  purpose  ;  to  have  our  stomachs  in  a  tumult ; 
our  jaws  grinding  down  our  teeth  instead  of  eating;  but  withal 
it  was  very  amusing.  I  had  always  thought  men  in  a  tolerable 
state  of  misery,  possessed  increased  capacities  to  render  thera^ 
selves  ridiculous.  A  number  of  common-place  things  proved 
this  idea  to  be  true.  Turning-in  was  one  of  these.  This  is  a 
process  of  going  to  bed ;  extraordinary  in  nothing  else  than  the 
novel  manner  in  which  it  is  performed  at  sea  in  a  gale. 

The  reader  will  pardon  me.     Please  step  into  the  cabin  of  tho 
Vancouver,  and  be  seated  by  the  nice  little  grate,  filled  with 


'''  1 


so  SCENESINTMEFAOIFie. 

Llazing  coals  from  the  mines  of  Paget's  Sound.  You  will  T,er« 
hnps  amuse  one  eye  with  Tam  O'Shanter,  while  with  the  other 
you  explore.  The  six  foot  lawyer  is  gathering  toward  his  berth. 
It  is  the  lower  one  ol  the  larboard  side  of  the  cabin.  His 
countenance,  you  will  observe,  is  a  miniature  tempest.  The 
ship  rolls  suddenly,  his  feet  slip  from  under  him,  and  he  slides 
under  the  table,  accompanied  by  a  bag  of  apples,  a  scuttle  of 
coal,  Tom,  the  cabin-boy,  and  a  hot  poker !  Goal,  apples,  and 
the  law,  strown  in  indiscriminate  oonfusiou  1  As  one  might 
expect,  the  lawyer  extricates  himself  from  his  difficulty,  enters 
a  "  nolle  prosequi"  against  further  proceedings  in  that  direction, 
■..ud  stretches  himself  in  his  berth,  without  attempting  to  per- 
suade his  wardrobe  to  take  separate  lodgings. 

The  fur-trader  seems  determined  to  undress.  Accordingly, 
when  the  ship,  in  her  rollings,  is  nearly  right  side  up,  he  attempts 
to  take  off  his  coat ;  unfortunately,  however,  when  he  has  thrown 
it  so  far  back  as  to  confine  his  arms,  the  ship  lurches  heavily, 
and  piles  him  up  in  a  corner  of  the  cabin  I  Odds-blood  !  how 
bis  Scotch  under-jaw  smites  the  upper  !  It  appears  that  wrath 
usually  fights  its  battles  in  that  part  of  mortality  to  a  greater  or 
Jfiss  extent.  On  this  occasion,  our  friend's  teeth  seem  to  have 
been  ignited  and  his  eyes  set  blazing  by  the  concussion  !  As, 
however,  there  is  nothing  in  particular  to  fight  but  the  sea,  and 
Xerxes  has  used  up  the  glory  of  that  warfare,  the  fur-dealer 
takes  to  his  berth,  without  further  demonstration  of  himself  than 
to  say  that  he  thinks  "  the  devil's  tail  is  whisking  in  the  storm," 
and  that  "  his  oxfoot  majesty  and  the  fin-tailed  god  must  be 
quarreling  stoutly  about  the  naiads." 

But  the  professor  of  psalmody  is  not  to  be  prevented  by  these 
failures  from  unrobing  himself  for  the  embraces  of  Somnus ;  not 
he.  "  And  if  the  planks  of  the  ship  will  float  me  long  enough 
it  shall  be  done."  He  does  not  say  that  he  is  on  his  way  to  the 
ocnquest  of  the  Californias ;  and  tbr^t  he  will  strip  himself  of 
his  blue  roundabout,  as  he  will  that  beautiful  country  of  its  ill- 
fitting  tyranny.  His  berth  is  on  the  starboard  side.  The  ship 
is  pitching  and  dodging  like  a  spent  top.     How  his  bravery  will 


w 

tr 
oi 
d( 
le 

pi 
d' 

le 

b 

P 

B' 

b 

0 


TRAVELS    IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


21 


i.  You  will  T,er. 
ie  with  the  other 
[toward  his  berth. 
[  the  cabin.  His 
re  tempest.  The 
tim,  and  he  slides 
iplcs,  a  scuttle  of 
Goal,  apples,  and 
As  oue  might 
I  difficulty,  enters 
1  in  that  direction, 
ttempting  to  per- 

ss.  Accordingly, 
deup,he  attempts 
hen  he  has  thrown 
ip  lurches  heavily, 
Odds-blood !  how 
ippears  that  wrath 
ity  to  a  greater  or 
seth  seem  to  have 
concussion !  As, 
it  but  the  sea,  and 
ire,  the  fur-dealer 
on  of  himself  than 
ting  in  the  storm," 
ilea  god  must  be 


end  under  such  circumstances  is  a  question  of  no  little  interest 
But  that  something  will  soon  be  done,  you  perceive  becomes 
evident ;  for  now  us  the  starboard  side  lowers  on  the  retreating 
wave,  he  seizes  his  outer  garment  with  both  hands,  and  with  a 
whistle  and  jump  that  would  do  credit  to  a  steam-car  off  the 
track,  wrenches  himself  out  of  it  just  in  time  to  seize  the  edge 
of  his  berth  as  the  next  surge  strikes  the  ship  and  throws  it  sud- 
denly  on  the  other  side.  His  vest  comes  off  with  more  ease  and 
less  danger.  Boots,  too,  are  drawn  without  accident.  But  the 
pants  !  they  are  tight  I  He  loosens  the  buttons ;  slides  them 
down  ;  with  one  hand  he  holds  fast  to  the  berth  ;  pulls  off  the 
left  leg  with  the  other,  and  is  about  extricating  the  right  foot, 
but,  alas !  that  sudden  jerk  of  the  ship  scatters  his  half-clad 
person,  bravery,  pants  and  all,  among  the  trembling  trunks, 
Btools,  table-legs,  &c.,  to  the  manifest  detriment  of  the  outer 
bark  of  his  limbs  !  At  this  moment  Mr.  Simpson  is  in  the  midst 
of  his  favorite  passage — 

"  Ah  Tam,  ah  Tam,  thou  '11  get  thy  fairin', 
In  hcl!  they  '11  roast  ihec  like  a  heriu' ' 

The  professor  of  psalmody,  after  some  search,  finds  himaeU 
again,  and  with  courage  unimpeached,  lies  down  in  silence. 


)revented  by  these 
3s  of  Somnus ;  not 
at  me  long  enough 

on  his  way  to  the 
1  strip  himself  of 

country  of  its  ill- 
•d  side.  The  ship 
iw  his  bravery  will 


;;i    ! 


H 


CHAPTER    II. 

The  next  Morning — Eating— Mermaids — Cupid — A  Sack  of  Boneii  on  Iti 
Legs — Love— A  Qrandsiie — Slie  was  a  Woman — Chicl;o;is— A  Blaclt 
Son  o'  the  De'il — A  Cracli  o'  tlie  Claymore — Sublimity — Tropical 
Sight — Paternal  Star— Cook — A  Sense — Edge  of  the  Trades — A  Night 
— "  On  Deck" — A  Guess — A  Look  and  Doubt— To  be  Dumh/ouni/rml — 
A  Bird  Note— Mouna-Kea— Christmas  Eve— Watch-Flros  of  Angels- 
Birds — Fish — Homestead — Hawaiians — The  Land — Moratai — Mooring 
—Landing  at  Honolulu— A  Slice  of  Bull— Poi— The  Death  Wail- 
Hospitality — The  Lover  and  his  Destination — The  Fur  Hunter  on  the 
Back  Track— The  Professor  of  Psalmody. 

The  next  morning  the  storm  was  unabated.  The  furieo  seem- 
ed abroad.  It  was  a  cold  sleety  day.  Both  the  atmosphere 
and  the  ocean  looked  like  maniacs.  Not  a  shred  of  the  visible 
world  seemed  at  ease  with  itself !  Commotion,  perpetual  growls, 
screams  and  groans,  came  up  from  the  tempestuous  deep ! 
Above  were  clouds,  hurrying  as  from  a  falling  world  1  Below 
was  the  ocean  shaking  ! 

Eating  on  tliis  day  was  attended  to  in  a  very  slight  degree. 
When  the  diuner  bell  rang  we  were  all  on  deck,  standing  in 
utter  abandonment,  to  whatever  the  Fates  might  have  in  re- 
serve for  us.  Not  one  would  have  broken  a  Christmas  wish- 
bone with  the  prettiest  girl  living,  to  decide  whether  we 
should  go  below  or  be  tumbled  overboard.  Captain  Duncan 
was  a  skillful  uiagnostician  in  all  such  cases.  He  urged  us 
below.  But  the  thought  of  bringing  our  nasal  organs  into 
the  full  odor  of  bilge  water,  the  steam  of  smoking  meat,  po- 
tatoes, and  bean  soup,  arrested  our  steps.  The  good  Cap 
tain,  however,  pressed  us  with  renewed  kindness,  and  we 
dragged  ourselves  down  to  the  table.  Ye  Mermaids,  liow 
could  ye  ever  learn  to  eat  at  sea  1     How  could  ye,  rocked  to 


, 


t 


in, 
wc 
an 
an 
im 
or 

W( 

wi 
th 

P' 
in 

qi 

P' 
e^ 

C( 

hi 
b. 


ol 
a 

b 

t( 
d 

d 

I 
t 


Jack  of  BoneR  on  Iti 

Chickc-.is— A  Black 
Sublimity — Tropical 
he  Trades — A  Night 
be  Diimhfouni/ired — 
;h-Firos  of  Aiifjels — 
— Moratai — Mooring 
-The  Death  Wail- 
Fur  Hunter  on  the 


The  furieo  seem- 
;h  the  atmosphere 
ired  of  the  visible 
,  perpetual  growls, 
snipestuous  deep ! 
ig  world  1     Below 

rery  slight  degree, 
deck,  standing  in 
night  have  in  re- 
i  Christmas  wish- 
side    whether    we 
Captain  Duncan 
3.      He  urged  us 
lasal   organs   into 
smoking  meat,  po- 
The  good    Cap 
iindness,    and   we 
)    Mermaids,   how 
ould  ye,  rocked  to 


TRA'-ELS      IN     THE     CALIPOENIA8. 


23 


sleep  in  infancy  by  the  billows,  educated  in  the  Bchool  of  the 
tempest,  learn  to  hold  your  heads  still  enough  to  comb  your 
glistening  tresses  !  and  much  more  get  food  within  your  pearly- 
grinders  ! 

Pictures  of  woe  were  we,  starving,  yet  loathing  food ;  thirst- 
ing, yet  unable  to  drink ;  wishing  for  a  mote  of  the  stable 
world  to  look  upon,  yet  having  nothing  but  the  unstable  water 
and  air ;  imprisoned  on  the  rolling  deck,  with  no  foothold,  or 
any  odor  of  flower  or  earth  around.  I  am  reminded  here  how 
interesting  to  the  antiquarian  would  be  the  inciuiry,  whether 
or  not  Cupid  was  ever  at  sea  in  a  storm.  If  he  were,  he 
would  have  crowned  Hogarth's  immortality  with  its  richest 
wreath,  if  transferred  to  canvass,  in  the  act  of  running  from 
the  dinner-table,  throwing  his  quiver  behind  him,  and  tip- 
ping his  roguish  face,  bloated  with  the  cflFort  of  a  retch- 
ing  stomach,  over  the  taffrail.  Poor  fellow,  it  makes  one 
quiver  to  think  if  there  ever  were  a  Cupid,  and  he  ever  took 
passage  from  the  Columbia  river  to  the  Hawaiian  islands,  and 
ever  did  attempt  to  eat,  and  while  doing  so  were  obliged  to 
conform  to  the  etiquette  of  sea  sickness,  how  sadly  he  must 
have  suff'ered,  and  how  unlovely  the  arrow-god  must  have 
become ! 

This  sea-sickness,  however,  is  a  farce  of  some  consequence. 
Like  the  tooth-ache,  fever  ami  ague,  and  other  kindred  follies 

of  the  body  it  has  its  origin  in the  faculty  will  please  an- 

swer  what.  But  seriously.  It  is  an  effort  of  our  nature  to 
assimilate  its  physical  condition  to  the  desires  of  the  mind. 
Man's  natural  home  as  an  animal  is  on  land.  As  an  intellectual 
being  he  seeks  to  pass  this  bound,  and  resorting  to  his  capacity 
to  press  the  powers  of  external  nature  into  the  service  of  his 
desires,  he  spikes  planks  to  timbers,  commits  himself  to  the 
waves,  rocks  on  their  crests,  habituates  head  and  foot  to  new 
duties,  and,  girded  with  the  armor  of  his  immortal  part,  tha* 
wealth  of  Heaven,  goes  forth,  the  image  and  representative  of 
his  Maker,  to  sec,  to  know,  and  to  enjoy  all  things.  But  a 
truce  to  philosophy.     We  are  on  the  sea.     The  elements  have 


24 


SCENES     IN     THE     rAClFtC. 


v.  I 

i    I 


f'  i 


M 
1 1 


1       S  ''■.! 


raved  twelve  days  and  arc  at  rest  ngain.  Quiet  and  variable 
breeies  from  the  north  push  us  pleasantly  along;  appetites  re- 
turn ;  we  shave  our  chins,  comb  our  hair,  and  begin  once  more 
to  wear  the  general  aspect  of  men. 

On  the  nineteenth  of  December  our  group  of  characters  was 
honored  by  the  appearance  of  a  fine  honest  fellow  from  the 
Btoerage.     H.'  had  suffered  so  much  from  sea-sickness,  that  he 
appeared  a  mere  sack  of  bones.      Ho  was  a  native  of  one  of  the 
Southern  States  ;  but  the  Yankee  spirit  must  have  been  born  ia 
him  :  for  he  had  been  to  the  Californias  with  a  chest  of  carpenter's 
tools,  in  search  of  wealth  !     Unfortunate  man !     He  had  built 
the  Commandante-Gcucral  a  house,  and  never  was  paid  for  it ; 
he  had  built  other  houses  with  like  consequences  to  his  purse ; 
had   made   many   thousands  of    red   cedar   shingles  for  large 
prices  and  no  pay  ;  and  last  and  worst  of  all,  had  made  love, 
for   two  years,  to  a  Spanish  brunette,  obtained  her   plighted 
faith  for  marriage,  and  did  not   marry  her.     It  was  no  fault 
of  his.     During   the   last    year  of  his   wooing,    a    Californian 
Cavaliero,  that  is,  a  pair  of  mustachios  on  horseback,  had  been 
in  the  habit  of  eating  a  social  dish  of  fried  beans  occasionally 
with  the  father  of  the  girl,  and  by  the  way  of  reciprocating  his 
hospitality,  he  advanced  the  old  gentleman  to  the  dignity  of  a 
grafldsire. 

This  want  of  fidelity  in  his  betrothed  wrought  sad  havoc  ia 
our  countryman's  affections.  He  had  looked  with  confiding 
tenderness  on  her  person,  returned  her  smilo,  and  given  her  one 
by  one  his  soul's  best  emotions.  Such  affections,  when  they 
go  forth  and  not  lost,  leave  a  void  to  which  they  never  return. 
He  was  alone  again  without  trust,  with  nothing  on  earth,  or 
rather,  on  the  sea,  to  love  but  his  carpenter's  tools.  The  object 
of  his  regard  had  disgraced  herself  and  him.  To  avoid  the 
Bcene  of  his  misery,  he  had  invested  in  horses  the  little  money 
he  had  accumulated ;  accompanied  the  Hudson's  Bay  Trading 
Company  to  Oregon,  and  having  cultivated  land  a  year  or  two 
in  the  valley  of  the  Willamette,  had  Bold  his  stock  and  property, 


and  f 

again 

Ca 

peopl 

pherc 

it.   : 

mour 

gamt 

fleas 

whicl 

bliu  V 

■he  ' 

hear 

love: 

a  w(i 

T 

on  0 

dani 

The 

hoai 

sear 

uou 

the 

ref>j 

ate 

"A 

mei 

he 

moi 

tho 

nee 


liet  and  variable 
g;  appetites  re- 
begiu  oncu  mora 

f  characters  was 
fellow  from  tlie 
sickness,  that  he 
ve  of  one  of  the 
avc  been  born  ia 
;st  of  carpenter's 
He  had  built 

was  paid  for  it ; 
cea  to  his  purse ; 
lingles  for  large 

had  made  love, 
ed  her  plighted 
It  was  no  fault 
y,  a  Californian 
jeback,  had  been 
sans  occasionally 
reciprocating  his 
(  the  dignity  of  a 

ght  sad  havoc  ia 
id  with  confiding 
ind  given  her  one 
tions,  when  they 
hey  never  return, 
ling  on  earth,  or 
Dols.  The  object 
1.  To  avoid  the 
the  little  money 
n's  Bay  Trading 
and  a  year  or  two 
ock  and  property, 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     OALIFORNIAS, 


211 


r 


and  shipped  for  home,  with  every  tooth  strung  with  curset 

against  the  Californian  Spaniards. 

California  itself,  not  including  the  bodies  or  souls  of  the 
people,  he  thoujrht  to  be  a  desirable  country.  The  very  atmos- 
phere  was  so  delicious  that  the  people  went  half-naked  to  enjoy 
it  Hard  to  abandon  was  that  air,  and  the  great  plains  and 
mountains  covered  with  horses,  black  Spanish  cattle,  and  wild 
game.  Tlie  fried  beans,  too,  the  mussels  of  the  shores,  and  the 
fleas  even,  were  all  objects  of  pleasure,  utility  or  industry,  of 
which  he  entertained  a  vivid  recollection.  Bni  that  loved  one  ! 
Hhe  was  beautiful,  she  was  kind,  alas  !  too  kind.  Hu  loved  her, 
ahe  was  wavward ;  but  was  still  the  unworthy  keeper  of  his 
heart;  stilfa  golden  remeu:branc-.e  on  the  wastes  of  the  past- 
lovely,  but  corroded  and  defiled.     His  opinion  was  that  she  was 

a  woman :  , 

The  weather  became  sensibly  milder  each  day  as  wo  moved 
on  our  course;  the  water  warmer,  the  fish  and  fowl  more  abun- 
dant.    The  latter  presented  themselves  in  considerable  variety. 
The  white  and  grey  albatross,  with  their  long  narrow  wings,  and 
hoarse  unmusical  cry,  cut  through  the  air  like  uneasy  spirits, 
Bearching  the  surrounding  void  for  a  place  of  rest,  and  finding 
none  !     Our  cook  contracted  a  paternal  regard  for  these  birds ; 
the  basis  of  which  was,  that  whenever  he  threw  overboard  the 
refuse  of  the  table,  they  alighted  in  the  wake  of  the  ship,  and 
ate  the  potatoe  peelings,  bits  of  meat,  &c.,  with  a  keen  appetite. 
"  Ah,"  said  he  of  the  spit,  "  it  is  a  pleasure  to  cook  for  gentle- 
men in  feathers  even,  when  they  eat  as  if  they  loved  it."     But 
he  was  still  more  partial  to  Mother  Carey's  chickens.     In  a  fair 
morning  these  beautiful  birds  sat  on  the  quiet  sea  in  flocks  of 
thousands,   billing   and  froUicking  in   great  apparent   happi- 
ness. 

"  There's  your  poultry,  gentlemen,"  cried  his  curly  pate, 
peering  from  the  galley.  "Handsome  flocks  these  about 
the  stacks  of  water;  plumper  and  fatter,  I'll  warrant  ye, 
*han  any  that  ever  squawked  from  the  back  of  a  Yorkshire 
Donkey.     No  need  of  cramming   there  to  keep  life  agom'. 


r 


26 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


11 '  ;t 


<i  \ 


I 


They    finds    themselves    and    never    dies    with   pip  or    dys- 
pcpsy." 

"  Ilout  wi'  ycr  blaguard  pratin',  ye  black  son  of  the  De'il ; 
and  mind  yc's  no  burn  the  broo'  agen.  Ye're  spcerin'  at  yer 
ngly  nose,  an'  ne'er  ken  the  eend  o'  yo  whilk  is  upward.  Ye 
Bonsie  villain  ;  when  I'se  need  o'  yer  clatter  I'so  fetch  ye  wi'  a 
rope's-end.  And  now  gang  in  and  see  ycr  dinner  is  fit  for 
Christian  mooths." 

Tliis  salutation  from  our  Scotch  mate,  drove  in  the  head  of 
our  poultry  man,  and  we  heard  no  more  dissertations  on  sea- 
fowl  during  the  voyage.  At  dinner  the  mate  congratulated  the 
company  on  the  excellence  of  the  pea-soup,  remarking  that  it 
"  smacked  mulr  o'  the  plaid  than  usual,"  because  he  "had  gi'cu 
the  cook  a  crack  o'  the  claymore  on  his  bagpipe ;  a  keekin,  as 
be  war,  at  things  wi'out  when  he  should  ha'  been  o'  stirrin'  his 
meal."  Trifling  incidents  like  this  occa,si  on  ally -broke  the 
monotony  of  our  weary  life.  Our  latitude  and  longitude  were 
taken  daily  at  twelve  M.,  and  the  report  of  these  and  the  dis- 
tance from  the  islands  always  gave  rise  to  some  prophetic  an- 
nouncements of  the  day  and  hour  when  we  should  anchor  in  tlie 
dominions  of  Kamehameha.  The  evenings  also  furnished  a  few 
diversions  and  pleasant  objects  of  contemplation.  Bathing  was 
one  of  the  former.  After  the  shadows  of  night  had  set  in,  ve 
used  to  present  ourselves  at  the  mainstays,  and  receive  as 
much  of  the  Ocean  as  our  love  of  the  sublime  by  the  gallon, 
or  our  notions  of  cleanliness  demanded.  And  when  the  hoot- 
ing, leaping,  and  laughing  of  the  ceremony  were  silenced, 
the  cool  comfort  of  the  body  left  the  mind  in  listless 
quietude,  or  to  its  wanderings  among  the  glories  of  a  tropical 
sky. 

It  was  the  24th  of  December;  the  mid-winter  hour.  But 
the  space  over  us  was  as  mild  and  soft  a  blue  as  ever  covered 
a  September  night  in  the  States.  The  stars  sent  down  a  deli- 
cate sprinkling  light  on  the  waters.  The  air  itself  presented 
some  peculiar  aspects.  It  was  more  nearly  transparent  than 
any  I  had  ever  breathed ;  and  there  seemed  to  be  woven  into 


allil 

strca 

gle  s 

in  tl 

grad 

very 

othei 

on  tl 

niont 

And 

mcnti 

house 

tllO  f( 

objcc 

sourei 

and  w 

sociat 

Ir 

patioc 

talked 

us;  h 

tendec 

tants ; 

the  go 

at  oui 

and    li 

covery 

non  b( 

not,   ii 

1789; 

tion,    ( 

same 

and    h 

Uie  Hi 

British 

Is  t] 


J   }.  1! 


PIC. 

with   pip  or    dys- 

k  son  of  the  De'il ; 
Ye're  spcerin'  at  yer 
bilk  is  upward.  Ye 
r  T'so  fetch  yo  wi'  a 
,ur  dinucr   is  fit  for 

IroTO  in  the  head  of 
dissortationa  ou  sea- 
ate  congratulated  the 
ip,  remarking  that  it 
ecausc  he  "  had  gi'cn 
agpipe ;  a  keckin,  as 
la'  been  o'  stirrin'  his 
Jasionally -broke   the 

and  longitude  were 
of  these  and  the  dis- 
3  some  prophetic  an- 

should  anchor  in  the 
3  also  furnished  a  few 
lation.     Bathing  was 

night  had  set  in,  ve 
tays,  and  receive  as 
ibliine  by  the  gallon, 
And  when  the  hoot- 
mony  were  silenced, 
he  mind  in  listless 
!  glories  of  a  tropical 

id-winter  hour.  But 
I  blue  as  ever  covered 
tars  sent  down  a  deli- 
le  air  itself  presented 
uly  transparent  than 
led  to  be  woven  into 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CAIIPORNIAS.  27 

all  its  thousand  eddies  a  tissue  of  golden  and  trembling  mist, 
streaming  down  from  the  depths  of  heaven  !     There  was  n.  sin- 
gle sad  spot  on  the  scene.     The  north  star,  so  high  and  brilliant 
in   the    latitude  where   I   had    spent  n.y  previous   years,  was 
gradually  sinking  into  the  haze  about  the  horizon.     I  hud  in 
very  early  life  looked  with  greater  interest  upon  that  than  any 
other  star.     The  little  house  which  my  deceased  father  had  built 
on  the  shore  of  a  beautiful  lake  among  the  green  woods  of  Ver- 
mont, stood  "  north  and  south"  upon  the  authority  of  that  stiu' 
And  after  he  had  died  at  that  humble  outi)ost  of  the  settlo- 
monts,  leaving  me  a  boy  of  nine  years,  his  death-bed,  the  littlo 
hou.sc,  and  the  star  which  had  guided  my  parent's  hand  in  laying 
the  foundation  on  the  brow  of  the  deep  wilderness,  came  to  be 
objects  of  the  tcnderest  recollection.     I  was  sorry  to  see  it  ob- 
scured ;  for  it  always  burned  brightly  in  our  woodland  home  • 
and  was  the  only  thing  which,  as  years  rolled  on,  remained  as- 
sociated  with  paternal  love. 

I  remember,  too,  another  class  of  emotions  that  gave  occu- 
pation  to  my  heart  in  those  beautiful  nights.     We  thought  and 
talked   of  Cook.      He    had  ploughed   those   seas   long  before 
us ;  had  discovered  the  group  of  islands  to  which  our  voyage 
tended ;  had  met  a  fearful  death  at  the  hands  of  the  inhabi- 
tants;  and  some  of  his  bones  yet  lay,  scraped  and  prepared  for 
the  gods,  m  the  deep  caverns  of  Hawaii !     The  waters  rippling 
at  our  ship's  side,  had   borne  him ;    had  rushed  in  tempests 
and    lam  in   great   beauty  around  him;  had  greeted  the  dis' 
covery  flag  of  the   brave  old  Fatherland,  and  heard  its  can- 
non boom  I      We   were   sailing  under  the  same  flag.     It  was 
not,   indeed,   the   same    identical    bunting    which    floated    ia 
1789;  but  it  was  the  emblem   of   the   same   social  organiza- 
tion,   of  the    same   broad   intelligence;    the    insignia   of   the 
same    Power,    whose    military     embattlements,    grain     fields 
and    homes,    g,rd    the    Earth!       I    wa.    glad    to    approach 
Hie  Hawaiian  Islands  on  the  track   of  Cook,  under  the  old 
British  flag. 

Is  there  a  human  sense  which  derives  its  nutriment  from 


'II 


28 


jot  MB  8     IN     THB     PA«iriO. 


!     '11 


t      \     'li 


':  1  :H 

i       I     ! 


^t  ii 


Ac  thing.  wWcb  nrc  gone?  Is  thm  a  holy-flower  whwh 
springs  up  an.ong  the  withered  ti-i.drilB  of  buried  beauty  ?  a 
wrong  and  vigorous  joy,  which,  like  the  Aloe,  blooms  a  moment 
on  the  cold  n.idi.ight  of  heavy  sorrow  V  U  there  an  elevation  of 
the  whole  being  into  a  higher  coi.diuou,  whouwe  wander  among 
the  treus,  the  ruin,  and  the  graves  of  former  times  ?  It  may 
be  so.  For  surely  be  who  treads  the  dust  of  Rome  and  stands  on 
tiw  ruins  of  Thebes,  bsH  a  spcoios  of  previous  existence  wrapped 
ftk-ut  him  He  sees  in  the  one  case  armies  thronging  the 
Ai.|-i»u-way,  bears  the  multitude  surging  in  the  forum  under  the 
ai.tbu«asiu  kindled  by  Cicero,  and  feels  that  the  eagle  of  free- 
dom is  throwing  the  pinions  of  his  protection  over  the  energies 

of  man  ,•  n.  • 

In  the  other  case  be  hears  the  voice  of  the  mighty  chieftain 
Bummm/ing  hi.,  millions  of  subservient  hands.  The  hammer  and 
the  c'.ii.f-l,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  of  day,  send  up  their 
vast  dm  to  the  passing  hours.  The  mountain  columns  of  Thebea 
Btand  up  in  the  presence  of  the  pyramids !  And  a  subject  land 
bows  in  servitude  to  a  great  and  controlling  intellect.  We  arc 
there,  and  form  an  integral  wave  in  the  sea  of  vitality  that 
flowed  forty  ages  ago  I  Wo  vouerate  the  broken  tomb  of  the 
pa.st.  Wo  knock  gently  at  its  gate,  and  fii.i  our  bodies  and 
minds  grow  vigorous  and  happy  in  those  subline  imagmnigs, 
which  carry  our  entire  selves  back  to  see  and  converse  with 
those  men,  the  mere  ruins  of  whoso  deeds  still  astonish  man- 
kind!  „     ^ 

We  retired  to  rest  this  evening  in  unusually  fine  spirits, 
for  with  the  aid  of  the  good  breeie  piping  down  from  the 
northwest,  we  expected  sight  of  land  by  the  next  sunset. 
Our  sleep,  however,  was  not  remarkably  deep,  for  I  recol- 
lect  that  the  wmd  freshened  during  the  night,  as  it  generally 
does  in  the  edge  of  the  trades,  and  compelled  the  morning- 
watch  to  take  in  sail  The  noise  occasioned  by  this  move- 
ment was  construed,  by  the  wakeful  ear  of  our  desires,  into 
a  shortening  canvass  to  prevent  running  on  land;  and  wo 
turned   out  to  »ee  it.     But  it  was  yet   beyond   view.     The 


nn 

till 
we 
M( 

801 

but 
wa 
the 
det 
fta 

ten 

■Uf 

the 

sle< 

but 

dec 

Diir 

3ar 

5uri 

ind 

Bxp 

^ar 

Jure 

tion 

iurn 

the 

Stan 

V 

ties  I 

[tpi 

islar 

theij 

mon 

pati( 

glori 


•-J. 


!  irio. 

a  holy-flowor  which 
of  buried  beauty  ?  a 
lIoc,  blooms  a  moment 
s  there  an  elevation  of 
hou  we  wander  among 
rmor  times  ?  It  may 
of  Home  and  stands  on 
ious  existence  wrapped 
armies  thronging  the 
in  the  forum  under  the 
that  the  eagle  of  free- 
MJtion  over  the  energies 

»f  the  mighty  chieftain 
nds.     The  hammer  and 
1  of  day,  send  up  their 
itam  columns  of  Thebes 
s !     And  a  subject  land 
lling  intellect.     We  arc 
le  sea  of  vitality  that 
he  broken  tomb  of  the 
id  fii.i  our  bodies  and 
ose  sublime  irosginingR, 
see  and  converse  with 
eds  still  astonish  man- 
unusually  fine  spirits, 
piping  down  from  the 
1   by  the   next  sunset. 
,bly   deep,  for   I   recol- 
he  night,  as  it  generally 
ijompelled  the  morning- 
casioued  by  this  move- 
ear  of  our  desires,  into 
uing  on  land ;    and   wo 
yet  beyond  view.     The 


TSAVF.  IB     rN     THB     CAI.  irORNIAS. 


29 


night,  however,  was  worth  bcliolding.    It  was  one  o'cIocV  ; 

the  sky  overhead  was  clear  arid  starry ;  around  the  north- 
western horizon  hung  a  cluster  of  swollen  clouds,  like 
Moorish  towers,  faintly  tipjied  with  the  dim  h<r\d.  In  the 
southwest  lay  another  mass,  piled  in  silent  gnindeiir,  dark 
battJement-like,  as  if  it  were  the  citadel  of  the  Has  !  The 
waters  were  in  an  easy  mood.  The  ship  moved  througli 
them  evenly,  save  that  she  cut  the  long  smooth  swells  more 
deeply  than  the  space  between  them,  and  occasionally 
•tarted  from  his  slumber  a  porpoise  or  a  whale. 

We  turned-in  again  and  slept  till  the  breakfast  dishes  clat- 
tered  on  the  table,  and  Tom  informed  us  that  Mr.  Newell 
supposed  he  had  seen  at  sunrise  the  looming  of  the  land  in 
the  southeast !  That  announcement  brought  us  to  our  feet ; 
sleep  gave  place  to  the  most  active  efforts  at  hauling  on  and 
buttoning  up  the  various  articles  of  our  wardrobe.  <'  On 
deck!  on  deck!  where  away  the  land?"  and  we  tasked 
Dur  eyes  with  their  utmost  effort  to  scan  the  nature  of  the 
3ark  embankment  on  which  the  mate  had  founded  his  au- 
5uries.  The  excitement  at  length  drew  all  the  passengers 
ind  officers  to  the  starboard-quarter  ;  each  man  looked  and 
expressed  himself  in  his  own  way.  To  guess,  was  the 
iTankee's  part;  to  look  and  doubt,  was  John  Bull's  plea- 
jure  ;  to  wuss  it  might  be  true,  was  the  Scotch  contribu- 
tion ;  and  to  reckon  awhile  and  commend  himself  to  be 
iumbfounhred  if  anything  could  be  known  about  it,  wa« 
the  Carolinian  carpenter's  clincher.  The  matter  left 
standing  thus,  we  obeyed  Tom's  summons  to  breakfast. 

While  engaged  in  filling  our  countenances  wit  !i  the  reali- 
ties of  life,  we  were  startled  with  a  bird's  note  from  the  deck ! 
It  proved  to  come  from  one  of  those  winged  songsters  of  the 
Islands,  which  often  greet  the  toiling  ship  far  at  sea,  and  with 
then-  sweet  voices  recall  to  the  soul,  weary  with  the  rough 
monotony  of  an  unnatural  life,  the  remembrance  and  antici- 
pation of  the  land  ;  the  green  and  beautiful  land  ;  where  the 
glorious  light  brightens  the  flowers ;  where  the  flowers  shed 


li  i 


I,  ' 

I.  I 

'i  I 

^!  1 


-.J  rj«ua**<ir^y^ 


.  ' 


'V 


'ft 
in 


I  .:!! 


!       i: 


30 


SCENES     IN     THK     PACIFIC. 


flieir  perfume  on  the  air,  and  the  fruits  of  trees,  and  shrubs. 
Mod  plants,  are  poured  into  the  lap  of  the  ripened  year. 

Who  does  not  love  the  birds  1  who  is  not  made  better 
and  happier  by  hearing  them  sing  among  the  buds  and 
leaves,  when  the  streams  begins  to  babble,  and  the  mossei 
to  peer  above  the  retiring  snows  7  when  the  violet  opens, 
and  meadows  and  forests  change  the  brown  garb  of  winter 
for  the  green  mantle  of  the  young  year]  No  one  who 
loves  nature  and  can  sympathize  with  it. 

But  this  one — perched  in  the  rigging  of  the  ship  in  which 
we  had  been  imprisoned  for  weeks — a  messenger  from  the 
glens  and  hills  sweetly  chanting  our  welcome  to  them,  was 
an  object  of  the  tenderest  interest.  It  had  the  cordial  greet- 
ing of  our  hearts ;  and  while  talking  about  it,  we  could  not 
forbear  reaching  our  hands  towards  it,  and  grieving  that  we 
had  no  intelligible  language  wherewiih  to  convey  our  salu- 
tations, and  ask  the  tidings  from  its  beautiful  home.  The 
captain  consulted  his  reckoning,-  and  found  that  we  lay 
about  one  hundred  miles  northwest-by-north  from  the  island 
of  Hawaii. 

The  breeze,  instead  of  decreasing  with  the  ascent  of  the 
sun,  as  it  had  done  for  a  number  of  days  past,  held  on ;  and 
with  all  the  weather  studding-sails  out,  we  made  about  ten 
knots  during  most  of  the  morning.  About  ten  o'clock.  Mi. 
Newell,  who  had  been  watching  that  embankment  of  cloud 
in  the  southwest,  which  had  excited  our  hopes  at  sunrise, 
touched  his  hat  to  Captain  Duncan  and  remarked,  "  That 
cloud  retains  its  bearing  and  shape  very  much  like  the  loom- 
ing of  land,  sir.  We  must  be  in  sight  of  some  of  the  islands : 
we  made  ten  knots  by  the  log,  sir,  during  my  watch." 

The  Captain  had  expressed  his  belief  that  he  could  sail  his 
shipunder  that  cloud  without  lead  line,  orcopperbottora;  and 
it  was  still  his  opinion  that  an  English  commander  like  him- 
self, an  old  salt  of  thirty  years'  standing,  would  be  as  likely 
toknowthe  complexionof  theland  as  any  gentleman  with  less 
experienced  optics.  However,  he  sent  Tom  for  his  glass  and 


r 

n 
k 
fli 
hi 
cli 
lir 

W( 

tal 


inc. 

of  trees,  and  shrubt. 
he  ripened  year. 

0  is  not  made  better 
mong  the  buds  and 
bble,  and  the  mossei 
len  the  violet  opens, 
3rown  garb  of  winter 
yearl     No  one  who 

1  it. 

y  of  the  ship  in  which 
a  messenger  from  the 
welcome  to  them,  was 
had  the  cordial  greet- 
about  it,  we  could  not 
t,  and  grieving  that  we 
iih  to  convey  our  salu- 
beautiful  home.     The 
id  found  that  we  lay 
yr -north  from  the  island 

with  the  ascent  of  the 
lays  past,  held  on ;  and 
)ut,  we  made  about  ten 

About  ten  o'clock.  Mi. 
t  embankment  of  cloud 
1  our  hopes  at  sunrise, 

and  remarked,  "That 
ery  much  like  the  loom- 
tof  some  of  the  islands: 

during  my  watch." 
lief  that  he  could  sail  his 
le,  or  copper  bottom;  and 
ish  commander  like  him- 
ding,  would  be  as  likely 
,s  any  gentleman  with  less 
entTomforhisglasaand 


tuavelb   in    the   cai,  ifor^    a« 


31 


peered  into  it  with  the  keenest  search.  Jt  was  deligl  Iful, 
meantiiiio,  to  us  land-lubbcrs,  to  watch  the  workings  of  his 
fiice.  There  was  a  gleam  of  triumph  creeping  over  it  as  he 
first  brought  his  glass  to  hear  upon  the  ohjcct.  Hut  as  the 
highest  part  of  the  pile  came  into  the  field  of  vision,  his 
cheeks  dropped  an  instant,  then  curled  into  the  well-known 
lineaments  of  chagrin,  and  then  into  those  of  rage,  as  if  he 
would  rather  all  the  land  were  sunk,  than  he  be  found  mis- 
taken in  a  matter  so  purely  professional. 

"  Damn  the  land  !"  he  at  length  exclaimed  ;  «  I  suppose 
it  must  be  Mauna-Kea,"  and  gave  the  glass  to  a  passenger. 
The  breeze  piped  up  and  we  moved  on  merrily.    Merrily 
flew  the  gladdening  waters  from  the  prow ;    steadily  as  the 
masts  stood  out  the  canvass  on  the  clear  blue  sky  ;    and 
brightly  beamed  the  warm  and  mellow  day  on  the  sea.    The 
Scotch  mate,  who  swore  by  any  dozen  of  things  that  his 
memory  happened  to  seize,  affirmed  by  his  blood  and  the 
whisky  that  had  been  buried  seven  conjfortable  years  at  his 
add  aunt's  homestead,  that  he  would  see  the  lassies  of  Ilono- 
lula  before  he  was  a  day  older ;    the  professor  of  psalmody 
■ung,  "Here's  a  health  to  thee,  Tom  Moore ;"  the  Hawaiian 
Island  servantsof  the  Hudson's  BayCompany  began  to  count 
their  money  preparatory  to  the  purchase  of  poi  ;   the  crew 
began  to  tell  yarns  about  «  sprees"  they  had  enjoyed  in 
Chili,  New  Holland,  Liverpool,  Vera  Cruz,  St.  Petersburgh 
and  Montevideo ;  the  six  foot  bootswain  began  to  whistle ; 
Tom  began  to  grin ;  a  former  cabin-boy  began  to  think  of 
his  mother,  whom  he  expected  to  meet  in  the  islands  ;  the 
visitor  bird  chirped  in  the  rigging  ;  and  all  for  joy  !     For 
now  the  lofty  peaks  of  Hawaii  loomed  above  the  clouds, 
the  sea-weed  gathered  on  the  prow,  and  the  odor  of  the 
land  puffed  over  us. 

At  five  o'clock  the  breeze  slackened  again,  and  unt'l 
nightfall  the  ship  barely  moved  enough  to  obey  her  heiiu. 
Near  ten  in  the  evening  it  freshened,  but  as  we  were  in  the 
neighborhood  of  a  lee-shore,  the  captain  thought  it  prudent 


■  c  t:  N  E  ■    IN 


THt     PACiriC 


10  keep  good  sea-room,  and  accordingly  shortened  sail  and 
lav  off  a  part  of  the  nii,'ht.  . 

This  was  Christinas  eve,  that  nucleus  of  so  much  social 
and  rcli^Mous  >.y  throughout  th«  Christian  world,  and  a 
„>erry  one  it  was  to  us.     Not  so  in  the  ordinary  sense  o 
the  trencher  and  cup,  the  .nv«ic,  dance,  and  the  embracen/ 
kindred  ;   nor  rendered  such  by  the  pealing  anthem  or  the 
solemn     rayer,  swelling  up  through  the   otty  arches  hung 
with  boughs  of  ever-green  and  the  prophelio  star  o    Beth- 
lehem!      But  nature  herself  seemed  worshipping!      Ihe 
heavens  were  unmarred  by  a  single  breath  of  mist,  excep 
what  rested  upon  the  heights  of  Hawaii ;  and  on  all  its  vault 
the  stars  shonl,  not  as  brightly  as  in  the  frosty  skies  of  the 
temperate  zones,  but  with  a  quiet  subdue,  lustre,  as .  th  y 
were  the  watch-fires  of  angels  assembled  to  celebrate  the 

earth's  great  jubilee.  . 

The  Pacific,  too,h3nt  the  scene  its  most  charming  condi- 
tion.   Wide  an<l  gently  curved  swells  rolled  down  from  the 
north,  smooth,  and  noiseless,  except  wheu  they  d.shed  upon 
our  n'oble  ship,  or  were  broken  by  the  c»olph|n  cou.mg 
through  and  dotting  them  with  phosphorescent  light .    1  he 
sea-bfrds  were  hailing  each  other  a  merry  Ch-tmas     The 
crrev  and  mottled  albatross,  flying  from  billow  to  billow, 
LLionally  clipped  the  waves  with  his  --^-^P-^;X'; 
and  shouted  gladly  to  the  elements  !     The  gulls  and  other 
bWs    at  in  countless  flocks  in  every  direction,  sinking, 
r  s  ng  and  chattering  on  the  panVmg  sea  1      And  schoo  s  o 
tiny  fish  with  bright  golden  backs  swam  by  the  side  of  he 
ship,  as  children,  after  long  absence,  gather  with  cher  h 
ed  remembrances  around  the  old  homestead  on  this  blessed 

"' M'dawn  on  the  25th  one  of  the  islands  lay  six  mile  dis- 
tant in  the  southeast.     The  sky  was  clear ;  the  sea  smoo  h 
L  porpoises  blowing  about  us  ;  a  right  whale  was  spc,utng 

a  hundred  rods  astern  -,  and  our  Hawaiians,  looking  from  the 
mlstay.  at  the  land,  were  uttering  their  beautifullanguage 


01 
Uj 
0) 

ol 
bi 
fn 

H\ 

fo 
ia 
ce 

wl 
an 

Wi 

h>i 

UI1 

be 
lin 
no 
be 
cl( 
th( 
br. 

CO' 

ou 
tin 
br( 
So 
on 
All 

brf 

go 
ro\ 

oai 

sui 


ri  0 

ihortened  sail  and 

of  flo  much  social 
iliaii  world,  and  a 
;  ordinary  sense  of 
and  the  embrace  of 
lini;  anthem  or  the 

lofty  arches  hung 
ihetic  star  of  Beth- 
orshipping!  The 
ith  of  mist,  except 
(  and  on  all  its  vault 
!  frosty  skies  of  the 
led  lustre,  as  if  they 
lied  to  celebrate  the 

ost  charming  condi- 
rolled  down  from  the 
2Q  they  dashed  upon 
he  dolphin  coursing 
irescent  light !    The 
rry  Christmas.    The 
)m  billow  to  billow, 
sword-shaped  wings, 
The  gulls  and  other 
f  direction,  sinking, 
ja  1      And  schools  o( 
ira  by  the  side  of  the 
rather  with  cheri.-h- 
^stcad  on  this  blessed 

inds  lay  six  mile  dis- 
lear  ;  the  sea  smooth ; 
lit  whale  was  spouting 
ians,  looking  from  the 
leir  beautiful  language 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     OAI.  It'URNIAS. 


SK 


of  vowels  witb  great  volubility.     Poi   (the  name  of  their 
Dational  dish),  wyhini  (woman),  and  iri  (chieQ,  were  the 
only  words  I  then  understood  ;  and  those  occurred  very 
often  in  their  animated  dialogues.     Poor  fellows  !  they  had 
been  five  years  absent  from  tlieir  poi  ;  five  years  separated 
from  the   brown   beauties  of  their  native  isles  ;  five  years 
away  from  tlieir  venerattnl  sovereijfa.      No  wonder,  the  re- 
fore,  they  were  charmed  with  the  dim  outline  of  their  native 
land  !     A  mass  of  vapor  hung  along  its  heights  and  con- 
cealed them  from  view,  save  here  and  there  a  volcanic  spire 
which  stood  out  on  the  sky,  overlooking  cloud,  mountain, 
and  sea.    As  the  light  increased  to  full  day,  this  cloudy  mass 
was  fringe  d  on   the   edge  nearest  us  with  delicate  golden 
hues  ;    but  underneath  it  and  inward  toward  the  cliirs,  the 
undisturbed  darkness  reached  far  eastward,  a  line  of  night 
belting  the  mountains  mid-heaven.     Downward  from  this 
line  to  the  sea,  sloped  red  mountains  of  old  lava,  on  which 
no  vegetable  life  appeared.     On  a  few  little  plains  near  the 
beach  the  cocoa-tree  sent  up  its  bare  shaft ;  and  as  the 
clouds  broke  away  we  disf:erned  clumps  of  rich  foliage  on 
the  heights.     But  generally  the  aspect  was  that  of  a  dreary 
broken  desert. 

We  sailed  past  the  western  cape  of  Moratai,  and  laid  our 
course  for  the  southeastern  part  of  Oahu.  At  two  o'clock 
our  good  old  ship  lay  becalmed  under  the  lofty  piles  of  ex 
tinct  craters,  six  miles  northeast  of  Honolulu.  At  four  the 
breeze  freshened,  and  bore  us  down  abreast  of  the  town. 
Soon  after  a  boat  came  rapidly  from  the  shore  with  a  pilot 
on  board  by  the  name  of  Reynolds ;  a  generous,  jolly  old 
American  gentleman,  of  long  residence  in  the  islands.  He 
greeted  his  countrymen  with  great  kindness,  and  having 
brought  the  ship  to  anchor  outside  the  reef,  invited  us  to 
go  ashore  in  his  boat.  It  w:is  manned  with  islanders.  They 
rowed  to  the  entrance  of  the  channel,  rested  on  their 
oars  while  the  angry  swells  lifted  us  at  one  instant  on  the 
summit  ol  tke  waters  and  at  another  dropped  us  into  the 


»4 


SCENES     !N     THE     FACiriC. 


chasm  between  them,  till  the  third  and  largest  came,  when; 
by  a  quick  and  energetic  movement,  they  threw  the  boat 
upon  the  land  side  of  it,  and  shot  us  into  the  harbor  with 
the  rapidity  of  the  wind  !  We  passed  the  American  whalers 
which  crowded  the  anchorage  ;  ran  under  the  guns  of  the 
fort ;  struck  the  landing  at  the  pier  ;  leapeu  ashore  among 
crowds  of  natives,  besprinkled  with  an  occasional  Eu- 
ropean face  :  followed  an  overgrown  son  of  John  Bull  to 
another  man's  house,  took  a  glass  of  wine,  and  scattered 
ourselves  in  various  quarters  for  the  night. 

Thus  terminated  our  voyage  from  the  Columbia  river  to 
the  Kingdom  of  Hawaii.  The  distance  between  Oregon 
and  these  islands  is  about  three  thousand  miles.  We  had 
sailed  it  in  twenty-one  days. 

The  next  morning  the  Vancouver  entered  the  harbor  with 
the  land-breeze,  and  anchored  near  the  pier.  The  "  steer- 
age" and  the  Hawaiians  now  came  on  shore.  The  former 
settifcd  his  hat  over  his  eyes  and  sought  a  barber's  shop ; 
the  latter  repaired  to  t4ie  town  with  their  friends.  I  fol- 
lowed them.  Whenever  they  met  an  old  acquaintance 
they  immediately  embraced  him,  and  pressed  noses  together 
at  the  sides.  After  many  salutations  of  this  kind  they  ar- 
rived at  the  market-place  ;  made  a  purchase  o( poi  (  a  fer- 
mented  paste  of  boiled  taro) ,  and  seated  themselves  with 
their  friends  around  it.  The  poi  was  contained  in  large 
calabashes  or  gourdshells.  With  these  in  the  midst  they 
began  to  eat  and  recall  the  incidents  of  pleasure  which 
had  sweetened  their  early  years. 

Their  mode  of  conveying  the  poi  to  their  mouths  was 
quite  primitive.  The  fore  and  middle  fingers  served  in- 
stead of  a  spoon.  These  they  inserted  to  the  depth  of  the 
knuckles,  and  having  raised  as  much  as  would  lie  upon 
them,  and  by  a  very  dexterous  whirl  brought  it  into  a  globu- 
lar shape  upon  the  tips,  they  thrust  it  into  their  mouths, 
and  licked  their  fingers  clean  for  another  essay.  They  had 
been  seated  but  a  short  time  when  others  joined  them,  who 


of 


inc. 

largest  came,  whe*; 
they  threw  the  boat 
nto  the  harbor  with 
le  American  whalers 
der  the  guns  of  the 
eapeu  ashore  among 
an  occasional  Eu- 
3on  of  John  Bull  to 
wine,  and  scattered 
ght. 

he  Columbia  river  to 
ice  between  Oregon 
and  miles.     We  had 

itered  the  harbor  with 
e  pier.     The  "  steer- 
1  shore.     The  former 
light  a  barber's  shop  ; 
their  friends.     I  fol- 
an  old  acquaintance 
iressed  noses  together 
I  of  this  kind  they  ar- 
urchase  of  poi  (  a  fer- 
ated  themselves  with 
as  contained  in  large 
ess  in  the  midst  they 
nts  of  pleasure  which 

to  their  mouths  was 
(lie  fingers  served  in- 
ed  to  the  depth  of  the 
ch  as  would  lie  upon 
brought  it  into  a  globu- 
;t  it  into  their  mouths, 
)ther  essay.  They  had 
thers  joined  them,  who 


T  K  A  V  £  L  6     IN     THE     CALIFORNIA  » 

brought  sad  news.  One  of  their  former  friends  had  recen 
died  1  On  hearing  this  their  hands  dropped,  and  the  dread- 
ful wail  ewai  burst  from  every  mouth,  as  they  rose  and  went 
towards  the  hut  in  which  the  dead  body  lay.  It  was  situ- 
ated a  short  distance  from  the  hotel ;  and  during  the  night 
I  heard  that  wail  ring  through  the  silent  town  !  A  more 
painful  expression  of  sorrow  I  hope  never  to  hear.  The 
next  morning  I  went  to  the  burial.  The  wail  was  sus- 
pended during  the  ceremonies  ;  but  for  several  succeeding 
nights  it  continued  to  break  my  slumbers.  A  few  days  after- 
ward I  saw  them  gathered  again  near  the  market-place  era- 
ployed  with  their  poi.  The  wages  of  five  years'  service  was 
nearly  exhausted.  They  had  given  a  large  portion  to  the 
chief  of  their  district,  and  spent  the  rest  in  feasting  and  cloth- 
ing their  poor  relatives.  They  were  poor  when  I  lost  sight 
of  them.  But  those  whom  they  had  fed  were  sharing  their 
pittance  with  them.  The  most  affectionate  and  hospitable 
people  on  earth  are  these  Hawaiians. 

Our  Carolinian  remained  a  few  days  at  Honolulu,  and 
took  passage  in  one  of  P.  J.  Farnham  &  Co.'s  ships  for  New 
York.  He  insisted  to  the  very  last  of  my  intercourse  with 
him,  that  his  Californian  brunette  was  a  woman  ! 

Mr.  Simpson  took  lodgings  with  that  distinguished  slice 
of  a  John  Bull  to  which  I  have  already  referred.  He  em- 
ployed himself  with  much  industry  upon  his  duties  of  set- 
tling accounts  with  his  host,  who,  as  the  agent  of  the  Com- 
pany, had  sold  the  lumber,  fish,  &c.,  exported  from  Oregon 
to  these  islands.  After  tarrying  a  month  at  Honolulu,  he 
returned  in  the  Vancouver  to  Columbia  River.  He  was  a 
fine  fellow,  full  of  anecdote  and  social  feeling,  talented  and 
modest ;  and  I  doubt  not  will  eventually  rise  to  the  highest 
rank  in  the  Compnny's  service. 

The  professor  of  psalmody  stopped  at  the  hotel  and  pre- 
pared to  exhibit  himself.  His  first  essay  was  to  deliver  to 
the  American  Missionaries  and  others,  certain  letters  which 
he  had  obtained  in  Oregon.     His  next  was  to  awaken  the 


3« 


8CEW1      ii»   T».  i   p  aci  no. 


genius  of  music.     Foi  fliis  puriiose  he  attended  a  number 
of  singing  parties,  at  \*hich  he  attempted  to  make  himself 
useful  to  three  young  Americans,  who  sang  with  masterly 
taste.     In  the  opinion  of  the  professor  they  "  needed  a  little 
burnishing,"  which  he  volunteered  to  give  them.     Unfortu 
nately  for  the  art,  however,  they  were  vam  enough  to  sup- 
pose they  had  V  jned  music  before  his  arrival ;  and  did  not 
therefore  value  his  suggestions  so  highly  as  he  himself  did. 
But  the  professor  persevered.     His  forbearance  knew  no 
limit  towards  the  deluded  tyros.     On  all  public  occasions 
he  never  failed  to  throw  out  many  invaluable  hints  as  to 
movement,  ascent,  and  style  generally.     He  even  encou- 
raged them  to  hope  that,  with  all  their  imperfections,  they 
might  attain  a  respectable  degree  of  excellence  if  they 
would  attend  to  his  instructions.     Whether  or  not  his  exer- 
tions were  ever  properly  appreciated  by  these  gentlemen  is  a 
question  whch  remains  unsettled  to  this  day.     But  the  most 
interesting  event  which  occurred  to  the  professor  in  Hono- 
lulu was  his  interview  with  the  sister  of  the  young  lady 
whom  he  had  forsaken.     She  was  the  wife  of  a  Missionary, 
a  zealous  servant  of  her  Master.     He  called  on  her  and 
was  invited  to  remain  to  tea.     I  was  present.     Everything 
was  sad  as  the  grave !     The  mercies  of  Heaven  were  im- 
plored upon  his  blighted  conscience  !     He  left,  little  hap- 
pier for  the  reminisceices  awakened  by  the  visit,  and  soon 
after  sailed  for  California.     I  heard  of  him  as  an  ingenious 
man  in  mending  a  watch  on  shipWjd,  but  never  as  one  of 
moral  integnty  or  as  the  Napolefn  of  the  Califormas  I 


!  rto. 

attended  a  mimber 
;d  to  make  himself 
sang  with  masterly 
ey  "  needed  a  little 
ve  them.  Unfortu 
i?ain  enough  to  sup- 
arrival  ;  and  did  nof 
y  as  he  himself  did. 
rbearance  knew  no 
dl  public  occasions 
'aluable  hints  as  to 
,     He  even  encou- 

imperfections,  they 

excellence  if  they 
theror  not  his  exer- 
these  gentlemen  is  a 

day.  But  the  most 
}  professor  in  Hono- 

of  the  young  lady 
wife  of  a  Missionary, 

called  on  her  and 
resent.  Everything 
)f  Heaven  were  ira- 

He  left,  little  hap- 
y  the  visit,  and  soon 
him  as  an  ingenious 
,  but  never  as  one  of 
Lhe  Califoraias ! 


Ba 


du 
Ai 
trE 
as! 
cr( 
in 
so 
an 
of 

sti 

«e 

lo 
re 
w 
di 


CHAPTER   III. 


Hawaiian  bland*— Spaniards  first  visited  them— Hoot  ill  Wjhini— Ac- 
count of  Coolr'i  Fisit— A  god— A  Robber  and  his  Death- Vancouver'a 
Visit— Kamenameha  I.- -A  Treaty— Cattle— Origin  of  the  Islands- 
Poetry,  and  another  Book— Legends— Ta^i* — Philosophy  of  Civilization 
— A  Way  to  th*  End— What  is  Taught — Gratitude — Departure  flrom 
the  Islands — Lava  and  Cauldrons — Goats  and  Men — Passengers — Cap- 
tain, Mates  and  Crew — A  Human  Managerie — Northing— Variables- 
Ten  days  Out— Too  nauseous  for  Music— Uncombed  Hair — Exhila- 
rated— Lovely — Growing  Fat — Ten  Knots — Ten  more  days  out— An 
Ocean  Don-  American  and  English  Tars— A  Squall — A  new  mode  ot 
taking  Eela — Land  ho — Mission — Wrath — Monterey. 

This  group  of  islands  was  first  visited  by  a  Spanish  ship, 
during  the  early  explorations  of  the  northwest  coast  of 
America,  by  Admiral  Otondo,  Viscaiyno,  and  others.  The 
traditions  of  the  natives  say,  that  a  small  vessel  was  driven 
ashore  on  the  southern  coast  of  Hawaii,  that  two  of  the 
crew  only  escaped  death  among  the  breakers,  and  that  these 
intermarried  with  the  natives  and  left  children.  I  saw 
some  descendants  of  these  men.  Their  European  features 
and  the  use  of  a  few  corrupted  Spanish  words,  satisfied  me 
of  the  truth  of  the  legend  and  the  ship's  nationality. 

Captain  Cook  next  visited  them  in  1779.  The  circum- 
stances of  his  visit  and  massacre,  as  given  me  by  a  very 
aged  chieftainess,  Hoopili  Wyhini,  will  interest  the  reader. 

"  Captain  Cook's  men  were  allowed  to  steal  a  canoe  be- 
longing to  our  people.  Our  chiefs  asked  that  it  might  be 
returned ;  but  Captain  Cook  had  made  us  believe  that  he 
was  a  god,  and  thought  to  take  what  he  pleased.  Our  tra- 
ditions asserted  that  gods  would  not  rob,  and  we  told  him 


38 


SCENES    Ilf     THE     PACIPIO- 


SO.  But  the  canoe  was  not  restored.  Our  people  thought, 
tlierefore,  that  if  Cook  wouKl  steal  from  ihem,  it  would  be 
right  to  steal  from  him;  so  in  the  night  time,  they  swam  under 
water  a  long  distance  to  the  ships,  loosened  the  boat  from 
one  of  them,  and  having  brought  it  asiiore,  broke  it  in  pieces 
for  the  nails.  Cook  was  very  mucli  enraged  at  the  loss  of 
his  boat,  and  threatened  us  with  destruction  if  it  were  not 
returned.     But  it  could  not  be  ;  it  wiis  destroyed. 

"  A  number  of  days  passed  in  very  angry  intercourse  be- 
tween our  people  and  the  foreigners,  during  which  a  chief 
suggested  that  so  unjust  a  being  could  not  be  a  god.  But 
all  others  said  he  was  the  great  Kono.  This  was  in  our 
days  of  darkness.  Why  do  you  press  me  to  remember  such 
unpleasant  things  ?" 

I  explained  that  I  was  anxious  to  know  the  truth  of  the 
matter,  and  she  continued  : 

"  At  length  Cook  came  on  shore  with  an  armed  force, 
and  went  to  the  king's  house  to  persuade  him  to  go  on 
b'^ard  his  ship.  The  chiefs  interfered  and  prevented  him. 
Cook  was  angry,  and  the  people  were  in  a  great  rage.  He 
went  down  to  the  shore  where  his  boat  lay.  The  people 
gathered  around  hira.  The  chief  who  did  not  believe  him 
a  god,  tried  to  kill  Cook,  but  Cook  killed  him ,  and  then 
the  people  who  belonged  to  that  chief,  killed  Cook.  It 
thus  became  clear  that  Cook  was  no  god  ;  for  we  thought 
our  old  gods  could  not  die.  These  were  our  years  of  sin, 
before  the  Pono  (Gospel)  came  among  us ;  and  it  is  not 
pleasant  to  speak  of  them." 

This  venerable  chieftainess  was  advanced  in  womanhood 
at  the  time  of  Vancouver's  visit,  in  1779.  She  gave  the 
following  account  of  it : 

"  When  Vancouver  arrived  at  Hawaii,  Kamehameha  was 
the  chief  of  three  districts  on  that  island.  These  were  Kona, 
Kohala,  and  Hamakua.  That  year  he  fought  against  the 
reigning  king,  and  conquered  the  whole  island.  Kameha- 
meha did  not  see  '^'ancouver  at  Kona,  where  he  first  ac 


S 


O 

a 


HO    I 


03 

oo 


no. 

iir  people  thotight, 
ihem,  it  would  be 
e,lheysvvain  under 
ned  the  boat  from 
;,  broke  it  in  pieces 
aged  at  tlie  loss  of 
:tion  if  it  were  not 
lestroyed. 
gry  intercourse  be- 
ring  which  a  chief 
lot  be  a  god.  But 
This  was  in  our 
e  to  remember  such 

)w  the  truth  of  the 

1  an  armed  force, 
liide  him  to  go  on 
nd  prevented  him. 
1  a  great  rage.  He 
t  lay.  The  people 
lid  not  believe  him 
led  him ,  and  then 
,  killed  Cook.  It 
d  ;  for  we  thought 
re  our  years  of  sin, 
us ;  and  it  is  not 

iced  in  womanhood 
79.     She  gave  the 

,  Kamehameha  was 

These  were  Kona, 

fought  against  the 

:  island.     Kameha- 

wherc  he  first  ac 


too 
bin 
shi] 
ban 

Att 

oth( 

(( 

En[ 

mac 

Isai 

■wh< 

*E 

laei 

To 

whi 

mis 

Ici( 

wrii 

But 

us, 

cou 

En{ 


TRAVELS    llf     THE    eALirORNIAS 

<*«red.  But  a  little  after  the  time  of  our  national  holidays, 
which  occurred  in  the  latter  part  of  the  Christians'  Decern- 
ber,  he  came  to  Kealukekua  Bay.  There  I  first  saw  him. 
Kamehameha  also  visited  him  at  that  place.  The  flag- 
sliip,  brig  and  store-ship,  appeared  to  be  under  the  general 
command  of  a  man  whom  we  called  Puk£ki  j  the  captain 
of  the  store-ship  we  called  Ilapilinu. 

"  While  this  squadron  remained  in  the  bay,  myself  and 
thirteen  others  went  aboard.  They  were  Kamehameha, 
his  three  brothers  and  one  sister,  myself,  my  aunt,  and  two 
other  women.  The  remainder  were  chief  men.  After 
being  at  sea  four  days,  we  anchored  in  Kealukekua  Bay  in 
which  Cook  was  killed. 

"Kamehameha  was  very  friendly  to  Vancouver — according 
to  our  old  ruics  of  hospitality,  he  furnished  him  with  a  concu- 
bine. He  gave  me  to  him.  I  passed  nine  days  on  board  his 
ship.  Kamehameha  presented  to  him  a  great  many  hogs  and 
bananas,  and  received  trifling  presents  of  old  iron  in  return. 
At  the  end  of  nine  days  I  left  the  ship,  in  company  with  some 
other  chiefs,  to  visit  my  sick  brother,  and  did  not  return. 

"  On  another  occasion,  Kamehameha,  his  chiefs,  and  two 
Englishmen  who  had  been  adopted  by  some  old  chiefs  and 
made  a  part  of  the  king's  counsel,  named  John  Young  and 
Isaac  Davis,  were  passing  the  day  on  board  the  flag-ship, 
when  Kamehameha  addressed  to  Vancouver  these  words  t 
*  E  nana  mai  ea  u,  eia  ka  aina,'  which  being  interpreted, 
means,  'Look  after  us,  and  if  we  are  injured,  protect  us.' 
To  this  Vancouver  assented.  An  instrument  in  writing, 
which  he  said  would  bind  his  sovereign  to  keep  the  pro- 
mise he  had  made,  was  framed  and  presented  to  the  king. 
I  do  not  know  whether  Kamehameha  understood  what  was 
written  ;  nor  do  I  know  whether  or  not  the  king  signed  it. 
But  until  the  French  captain.  La  Place,  came,  and  abused 
us,  we  thought  the  English  would  protect  us ;  because  Van- 
couver promised  to  do  so.  Kamehameha  always  said  the 
English  were  our  friends — that  the  islands  were  his,  and 


CKNES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 

these  friends  would  keep  off  all  danger  from  abroad. 
It  is  not  clear  to  me  that  they  have  been  faithful  to  the 
words  of  Vancouver. 

"  Vancouver  built  a  lent  and  high  tower  on  shore.  In 
the  former  he  sometimes  slept.  In  the  latter  his  learned 
men  pointed  bright  instruments  at  the  moon  and  stars.  A 
doctor,  whom  we  called  Makaua,  visited  the  volcano.  He 
had  sore  lips  when  he  returned.  He  brought  down  some 
sulohur,  saltpetre,  and  lava. 

"Vancouver  gave  me  two  fathoms  of  red  broadcloth.  To 
th?  king  and  chiefs  he  also  gave  some  of  the  same.  He  said 
the  king  of  England  sent  it  to  us.  I  had  two  husbands  at  this 
tJme.  The  one  was  Kalanimamahu,  the  son  of  Keona,  and 
the  of  her  Hoopili,  the  late  governor  of  Maui.  The  first  was 
the  father  of  Queen  Auhea  ;  the  latter  is  buried  among  the 
people  near  the  church.     Those  were  days  of  darkness. 

"  Vancouver  gave  to  Kamehomeha  four  cattle,  three  cow3 
and  one  bull.  He  said  to  Kamehameha,'feed  them  five  years, 
and  then  begin  to  kill  and  eat.'  They  were  shut  up  in  a  field 
several  years,  but  broke  out  one  after  another,  and  went  to 
the  mountains.  Very  few  were  killed  for  thirty  years. 
During  the  last  ten,  many  have  been  slaughtered  for  their 
hides  and  tallow.  Vancouver  killed  one  of  the  calves  be- 
fore he  left  us.     They  were  brought  from  California. 

"  Vancouver  had  an  interpreter  whom  our  people  called 
Lehua  ;  and  another  who  was  a  native  chief  in  the  island 
of  Taui.  This  latter  had  nwde*  a  voyage  in  an  English 
whale-ship,  during  which  he  had  learned  the  language  of 
that  nation.  By  means  of  these  men,  he  asked  questions, 
and  received  answers  in  regard  to  our  old  ways.  Once  he 
asked  '  whence  came  these  iislands  V  and  our  chit'fs  re- 
plied—' Hawaii  is  the  child  of  the  gods  Papa  and  Wakea, 
and  the  other  islands  are  the  children  of  Hawaii.' 

"  The  chief  priests  then  said  Hawaii  was  in  a  very  soft  state 
immediately  after  birth,  but  a  god  desc  jnded  from  the  skies 
and  called—'  E  Hawaii  Ea,  O  Hawaii  Oh,'  and  the  god 


Haw 


man 


F  I  C. 

nger  from  abroa<). 
en  faithful  to  the 

wer  on  shore.  In 
latter  his  learned 

oon  and  stars.  A 
the  volcano.     He 

ought  down  some 

id  broadcloth.    To 
he  same.     He  said 
vo  husbands  at  this 
son  of  Keona,  and 
mi.     The  first  was 
1  buried  among  the 
lys  of  darkness, 
r  cattle,  three  cow3 
eed  them  five  years, 
re  shut  up  in  a  field 
other,  and  went  to 
1  for  thirty  years, 
sughfered  for  their 
e  of  the  calvef  be- 
n  California. 
I  our  people  called 
chief  in  the  islanil 
age  in  an  English 
;d  the  language  of 
le  asked  questions, 
Id  ways.     Once  he 
and  our  chiefs  re- 
Papa  and  Wakea, 
f  Hawaii.' 
is  in  a  very  soft  state 
ided  from  the  skies 
Oh,'  and  the  god 


TRA'EI.H     IN     THE     CALiFORNIAg. 

Hawaii  came  forth,  communicated  to  the  pulpy  land  a  gym- 
tory  motion,  made  it  come  around  him,  and  assume  a  per- 
manent form.     Vancouver  rei)lied,  <  right,' 

"I  am  sixty-five  years  old  and  must  die  soon." 

I  was  exceedingly  interested  in  these  conversations  with 
this  remarkable  woman.  She  had  been  one  of  the  wivos  of 
Kamehameha  the  First ;  had  commanded  his  navy  of  war 
canoes,  during  his  conquests,  and  was  at  the  time  of  my  in- 
terview with  her  the  acting  executive  of  Maui,  and  a 
scholar  in  the  Missionary  Sabbath  school ! 

I  remained  three  months  in  these  beautiful  islands,  en- 
joying the  revelations  of  these  chronicler  of  old  and  curious 
times.  The  king,  chiefs,  foreign  residents  and  Missionaries, 
perceivmg  my  avidity  in  gathering  information  respecting 
the  country  and  its  people,  rendered  me  every  aid  in  their 
power  to  facilitate  my  inquiries.  Nor  do  I  ever  expect 
again  to  find  a  richer  field  of  the  strange,  the  beautiful,  ths 
wonderful  and  the  sublime,  than  was  there  presented  to  ms. 

The  legends  of  a  thousand  generations  of  men,  living 
apart  from  the  rest  of  mankind,  among  the  girding  depths 
of  the  Pacific  seas ;  the  stories  of  their  gods  and  goddesses ; 
the  tales  of  their  wars  ;  the  fate  of  bad  princes  whom  their 
deities  reprimanded  from  the  skies  ;  th.  beatification  of  the 
good  on  whom  their  divinities  scattered  blessings;  thei. 
forms  of   government ;   their  religious  ceremonies ;   the" 
genealogies ;  their  poetry,  more  of  it  than  Greece  ever  had 
and  still  sung  by  bards  travelling  from  village  to  village  ,' 
their  dances;   their  rejoicings  at  a  birth;    their  wailings 
over  the  dead,  and,  the  solemn  ceremonies  of  their  burials  ; 
*re  a  few  of  the  interesting  subjects  investigated. 

The  intense  interest,  as  well  as  the  amount  of  writino-re. 
quired  to  exhibit  these  matters,  will  furnish  my  best  apofo-ry 
for  passing  them  in  this  place.  They  may  hereafter  app^r 
m  a  separate  volume.  But  I  cannot  allow  mv  readera  to 
pass  from  tne  Hawaiian  kingdom,  without  presenting  to  their 

ce  the  interesting  fact,  that  a  hundred  and  seven  thou- 


49 


■  CENEB     IN     THE     PAC'IFIC 


sjind  savngps  have  been  brought  wirtiin  the  pale  of  civilira- 
tion  and  Chrislianily  tlirough  the  inslrumenlulity  of  ths 

America  lis. 

Twenty-five  years  ago  a  nation  occupied  the  kingdom  of 
Hawaii  which  sought  its  happiness  from  a  ■ystematic  viola, 
tion  of  the  fundamental  laws  of  Creation.  Their  food  was 
under  the  tnbu,  or  ban  ;  so  that  the  powerful  in  civil  and 
religious  aHairs  appointed  the  best  edibles  for  their  own  use, 
and  made  death  the  penalty  to  their  wives,  daughters  and 
inferiors,  if  they  tasted  them.  The  fire  kindled  to  cook  the 
food  of  the  men  was  tabued;  it  was  death  for  woman  to 
kindle  hers  from  it,  or  cook  or  light  a  pipe  at  it.  The  p'lr- 
son  of  the  king  was  tabued.  It  was  death  to  touch  him,  or 
any  article  which  he  had  used,  or  to  step  on  his  shudow,  or 
the  shadow  of  his  house.  And  at  the  hour  of  midnight  hu- 
man victims  were  slaughtered,  and  piled  on  scalTolHs  with 
dogs  and  hogs,  around  the  temples  wliich  they  woaid  con- 
secrate to  their  deities ! ! 

Here  human  nature  had  been  forced  from  its  true  appe- 
tencies to  the  material  and  spiritual  Universe.  Its  misery 
followed  as  an  inevitable  consequent.  But  the  Hawauans 
were  thinkers.  The  violated  ordinances  of  the  world  recoil- 
ing on  them  at  every  tread  of  life,  forced  on  them  the  thought 
of  obedience  and  its  blessings.  And  they  rose  in  their  power ; 
ate  from  the  full  hand  of  Heaven ;  prostrated  their  ancient 
temples ;  burned  their  hideous  gods ;  made  the  civil  power 
subservient  to  the  common  good.;  and  restored  themselves, 
af\er  immemorial  ages  of  degradation,  to  the  quiet  reign  ot 
the  natural  laws.  It  is  most  remarkable  that  the  American 
missionaries  were  on  their  voyage  to  the  islands  while  these 
things  were  being  done ! 

The  law  of  relationship  between  these  people  and  their 
Maker  had  been  lost  among  the  crude  follies  of  idol-worship 
and  civil  tyranny.  These  they  had  broken  down  by  a  mighty 
blow.  The  fragments  oftheir  temples,  altars  and  gods,  were 
strewn  over  the  land.  An  entire  nation  looked  on  the  flowers^ 
the  stars,  the  rivulet,  the  ocean,  the  birds  and  themselveSj 


r 


I  r  I  e 


ihe  pale  of  civiliza- 
rumcnlulity  of  ths 

Hvl  the  kingdom  of 
I  a  ■jstematic  viola. 
n.     Their  food  wiis 
iwcrful  in  civil  and 
!S  for  tiieir  own  use, 
ives,  daughters  and 
kindled  to  cook  the 
leath  for  woman  to 
ipe  at  it.     The  p'^r- 
aih  to  touch  him,  or 
'p  on  his  shadow,  or 
lour  of  midnight  hu- 
Bd  on  sculTolHs  with 
ich  they  woaid  cou- 

i  from  its  true  appe- 
nivorse.     Its  misery 
But  the  Hawaiians 
s  of  the  world  recoil- 
on  them  the  thought 
'  rose  in  their  power ; 
)strated  their  ancient 
made  the  civil  power 
restored  themselves, 
to  the  quiet  reign  ot 
lie  that  the  American 
le  islands  while  these 

f?se  people  and  their 
bllies  of  idol-worship 
:en  down  by  a  mighty 
altars  and  gods,  were 
looked  on  the  flowers^ 
)irds  and  tbemselreSj 


Cocoa  Tree  of  Hawaii. — P.  4& 


an 

th 

w] 

gri 

H( 

ter 

Its 

pal 

fac 

hu 

in  . 

1 

reli 

mai 

the 

stii: 

mg 
mai 
aliu 
por 
exis 
per] 
diti( 

I 
hull 
wit! 
seat 
bles 
mon 
bboi 
of  I 
leali 

1 
lirou 
■the\ 
cond 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CAL     F0RNIA8. 


43 


and  believed  in  no  God  ! !  The  vessel  which  brought  to 
them  the  Christian  faith  anchored  at  Honolulu  !  The  event, 
which  shook  the  hill,  darkened  the  sun  and  opened  the 
graves  of  Judea,  was  proclaimed,  and  gave  its  hopes  of 
Heaven  to  a  hundred  thousand  people  !  A  nation  thus  en- 
tered the  world  as  its  loved  homestead  became  obedient  to 
Its  organization ;  called  back  the  wandering  religious  sym- 
pathies to  the  worship  of  the  true  God ;  opened  to  every 
faculty  the  sphere  of  its  legitimate  enjoyments ;  and  made 
human  nature  again  a  component  part  of  creation,  existing 
in  haimony  with  it  and  its  Author. 

Man  must  incorporate  himself  into  that  great  chain  of 
relationship  and  sympathy  which  runs  from  inorganized 
matter  to  the  first  feeble  manifestation  of  vegetable  life,  and 
thence  upward  through  bud,  leaf  and  blossom,  and  upward 
still  along  the  grrrat  range  of  animal  existence  to  the  think- 
ing and  feeling  principle,  and  thence  to  God.  It  is  in  this 
manner  alone,  that  he  can  feed  his  faculties  with  their  own 
aliment.  And  it  is  his  ignorance  of  the  dependence  of  each 
portion  of  his  body  and  mind,  on  each  and  every  external 
existence,  which  makes  thorns  for  his  feet  and  keeps  up  a 
perpetual  warfare  between  himself  and  the  immutable  con- 
ditions of  his  true  happiness. 

I  am  sincerely  persuaded  that  the  regulating  principle  of 
human  culture,  is  to  sympathize  with  every  form  of  creation 
within  our  knowledge ;  to  enter  the  world  as  our  home  ;  to 
seat  ourselves  at  its  hearth  ;  to  eat  its  viands  and  drink  its 
blessings;  to  slumber  in  its  arms;  to  hear  the  floods  of  har- 
monious sounds  which  come  up  to  us  from  the  matter  and  life 
about  us ;  and  to  yield  our  being  to  the  great  dependent  chain 
of  relationship  which  binds  God's  material  empire.  His 
lealms  of  mind  and  Himself,  in  one  sympathizing  whole ! 
The  universal  requirement  is,  that  man's  nature  shall  be 
brought  into  harmony  with  creation  and  its  Author.  This  is 
.the  whole  law  of  our  being.  Obedience  to  it  is  the  unalterable 
condition  of  happiness  ;  the  only  true  test  of  civilization  ;  the 


44 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


only  state  in  which  our  powers,  physical  and  inentaV  will 
operate  harmoniously ;  the  only  position  of  our  existence 
which  looks  forward  on  the  path  of  our  destiny,  wiih  any  cer- 
tainty that  thought,  feeling,  and  act,  will  lead  to  results 
pleasureable  to  ourselves  and  in  harmony  with  the  rest  of 

the  world. 

It  is  a  want  of  proper  reflection  on  this  matter  which  has 
rendered  abortive  so  many  eirorts  to  civilize  ditferent  por- 
tions of  the  race.  In  India,  in  the  forests  of  the  west,  in  every 
other  place,  except  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  where  the  societies 
of  Protestantism  have  made  efforts  to  ameliorate  the  condi- 
tion of  the  barbarian,  nearly  the  whole  acting  force  has  been 
brought  to  bear  on  the  cultivation  of  the  religious  sentiments. 
The  theory  has  been,  make  them  Christians,  and  everything 
else  will  follow  as  a  promised  favor  of  Heaven. 

No  error  has  cost  the  church  more  money  and  life  than 
this.  The  savage  has  been  taught  the  doctrines  of  salvation, 
and  his  direct  relations  t  j  the  Deity.  Thus  far,  well.  But 
there  was  no  corresponding  teaching  to  the  rest  of  his  na- 
ture. His  physical  wants  and  the  mode  of  supplying  them, 
remained  unchanged.  All  his  relations  to  the  external  world 
continued  the  same.  And  the  largest  number  of  the  strong- 
est desires  of  the  mind  being  thus  left,  to  contend  with  those 
which  the  missionaries  attempted  to  excite  and  purify,  it  is 
no  wonder  that  so  little  has  been  accomplished. 

In  the  Hawaiian  Islands  the  missionaries  found  a  people 
livino'  in  villages,  having  a  property  in  the  soil,  and  depend 
ing  chiefly  upon  its  culture  for  their  subsistence.  They 
also  found  them  destitute  of  every  kind  of  religion,  and  de- 
sirous of  receiving  one :  they  were  a  talented  people  and 
anxious  for  new  ideas.  This  was  a  remarkable  state  of 
things.  Their  physical  adaptation  to  the  natural  world  was 
so  far  in  advance  of  the  mental,  that  the  latter  only  required 
to  be  placed  on  an  equal  footing  with  the  former,  to  produce 
the  civilization  and  moral  rectitude  which  they  now  possess. 
The  result  of  missionary  efforts  in  these  islands,  if  well 


unde 

of  0{ 
^Uysi 

ChAs 

Wi 

of  the 

arem 

and  V 

telli^( 

citize 

more 

know 

Thi 

island 

Strang 

on  wl 

get  th 

my  mi 

gratefi 

I  may 

whom 

Toi 

bound 

under 

canic  1 

ward  B 

rose  fn 

vating 

piled  a 

dense 

tuteof 

mass,  i 

ted  wit 

taro,  a 

along  I 


I  r. 

and  inentaV  will 
1  of  our  existence 
iny,  wiihany  cer- 
ill  lead  to  results 
y  with  the  rest  of 

5  matter  which  has 
ize  ditferent  por- 
'  the  west,  in  every 
where  the  societies 
eliorate  the  condi- 
ting  force  has  been 
ligious  sentiments, 
ns,  and  everything 
leaven. 

>ney  and  life  than 
;trinesof  salvation, 
hus  far,  well.  But 
the  rest  of  his  na- 
of  supplying  them, 
)  the  external  world 
mber  of  the  strong- 
contend  with  those 
;ite  and  purify,  it  is 
plished. 

iries  found  a  people 
;he  soil,  and  depend 
subsistence.  They 
of  religion,  and  de- 
alented  people  and 
emarkable  state  of 
le  natural  world  was 
latter  only  required 
e  former,  to  produce 
jh  they  now  possess, 
hese  islands,  if  well 


TRAVKI,  S     IN     THE     CALIFJRNIA8. 


45 


understood,  may  lead  to  some  valuable  changes  in  the  modfl 
of  operating  elsewhere.  It  will"  be  learned  that  while  the 
physical  wants  and  the  mode  of  supplying  them,  are  op- 
fMed  to  the  ordained  condition,  it  is  vain  to  expect  the 
ChJstianized  state. 

We  may,  meanwhile,  rejoice  at  this  single  restilt.  It  is  one 
of  the  great  events  of  the  age.  Twenty  thousand  Hawaiiaas 
are  members  of  Christian  chwches.  Seventy  thousand  read 
and  write.  The  whole  people  are  better  taught,  more  in- 
telliq^ent,  and  farther  advanced  in  civilization  than  are  the 
citizens  of  the  Mexican  Republic.  Their  Government  is 
more  paternal,  and  administ-ered  more  kindly  than  any  other 
known  to  civilized  man.     But  I  must  hasten  Iwmeward. 

The  hospitality  of  couritrymen  during  my  tarry  in  these 
islands,  the  kindness  of  countrymen,  bestowed  on  me,  a 
stranger,  fleeing  from  my  grave,  and  sad — away  from  those 
on  whose  hearts  I  had  a  right  to  lean — how  can  I  ever  for- 
get them  !  While  those  beautiful  islands  have  a  place  in 
my  memory,  they  will  be  associated  with  some  of  the  most 
grateful  recollections  of  my  life.  It  is  painful  to  think  that 
I  may  never  again  grasp  the  hands  of  some  noble  spirits, 
•whom  I  saw  and  loved  in  the  kingdom  of  Hawaii ! 

To  the  sea !  on  board  the  bark  Don  Quixote,  Paty,  master, 
bound  for  Upper  California!  We  left  the  harbor  of  Honolulu, 
under  a  sweet  land  breeze  from  the  forests  crowning  the  vol- 
canic hills  in  the  rear  of  the  city,  and  bore  away  to  the  west- 
ward along  the  coast.  The  mountains  of  decomposing  lara 
rose  from  the  water  side  in  sharp  curving  ridges,  which,  ele- 
vating themselves  as  they  swept  inland,  lay  in  the  interior 
piled  above  the  clouds.  Some  of  them  were  covered  with  the 
dense  green  foliage  of  the  tropics  ;  and  others  were  as  desti- 
tute  of  vegetation  as  when  they  were  poured,  a  liquid  burning 
mass,  from  the  cauldron  of  the  volcanoes.  Many  valleys  dot- 
ted with  the  hay-thatched  huts  of  the  natives,  their  fields  of 
taro,  and  orchards  of  bread-fruit,  cocoa  and  plantain,  lay 
along  the  shore.    1  ne  lower  hills  were  covered  with  frolick- 


46 


80BNB8    IN    THK     PACIFIC. 


ing  goats,  and  here  and  there  on  the  projecting  cliffs,  stood  a 
group  of  stalwart  figures,  brown  as  the  rocks,  shouting  their 
pleasure  at  seeing  our  ship,  with  all  sails  steadily  drawing, 
push  through  the  waves.  Having  rounded  the  southwestern 
cape,  we  laid  our  course  through  the  channel  between  Oahu 
and  Taui,  with  the  intention  of  availing  ourselves  of  the  north- 
ern "  variables"  to  carry  us  to  the  American  coast. 

In  the  cabin  we  had  seven  passengers ;  Mr.  Chamberlain, 
the  fiscal  agent  of  the  American  Missions  at  the  islands — a 
man  of  a  fine  mind  and  unpretending  goodness,  who  had  un- 
dertaken the  voyage  for  the  benefit  of  his  health — Mr.  Cobb, 
the  mate  of  a  whaler,  a  plain  honest  man,  going  home  to  die 
of  an  injury  from  the  falling  of  a  spar  on  shipboard  ;  a  spend- 
thrift of  Philadelphia,  returning  from  a  two  or  three  years' 
spree  in  the  Pacific  ;  and  a  brace  of  Char^estown  boys,  who 
were  on  their  way  homeward  for  goods  anc'  weethearts. 
One  of  these  was  an  excellent  little  fellow,  wu..  «.  soul  full 
of  music  and  justice ;  the  other  a  singer  of  bass  and  an  acting 
agent  general,  in  the  same  depu/tment.  The  only  representa- 
tive of  the  fair  sex  we  could  boast  of  was  a  half-breed  Ha- 
waiian lass,  going  to  visit  the  '*  Major,"  her  father,  an  old 
mountaineer  from  New  England,  who  was  keeping  a  small 
shop  at  Santa  Barbara,  in  Upper  California. 

Captain  Paty  was  a  little  man,  with  a  quiet  spirit,  and  a 
generous  heart ;  a  New  England  man  who  always  kept  his 
eye  to  the  windward,  and  gave  his  sails  to  the  stoutest 
breeze  without  fear  of  clew  lines  or  stays.  The  mate,  a 
lusty  English  tar  of  the  Greenwich  school,  was  a  jolly  old 
boy,  whose  face  was  always  charged  with  a  smile,  ready  to 
be  let  off  on  the  least  occasion  of  conferring  happiness. 
Our  second  mate  was  an  Italian,  who  had  left  his  cruntry 
for  doubtful  reasons,  married  an  American  girl  in  the  city 
of  New  York,  buried  her,  and  was  now  roaming  the  seas 
in  the  double  capacity  of  second  mate  and  sliip's  carpenter, 
for  the  means  of  educating  his  only  child.      ^ 

Our  crew  was  a  collection  of  odd-fellows.     The  first  in 


r 


oeigh 

a  pail 

when 

the  ei 

all,  tl 

and  a 

soup 

extrei 

ency, 

Ind 

thoug 

respec 

friend 

and  ol 

the  gr 

tal  an( 

was  s. 

comj)I 

Wh 

tant  v: 

moder 

peared 

logy  u 

huntin 

ship  st 

sight  0 

Whi 

riety  o 

conipa 

push  u 

tude  b{ 

took  ui 

exceed 

ed  witl 

ditions 

mav  be 


no. 

ecting  cliffs,  stood  a 
Dcks,  shouting  their 
s  steadily  drnwing, 
id  the  southwestern 
nnel  between  Oahu 
rselves  of  the  uorti.- 
n  coast. 

;  Mr.  Chamberlain, 
ns  at  the  islands — a 
odness,  who  had  un- 
a  health — Mr.  Cobb, 
I,  going  home  to  die 
hipboard ;  a  spend- 
two  or  three  years' 
r^estown  boys,  who 
s  am'  weethearts. 
)w,  wiu.  o  soul  full 
f  bass  and  an  acting 
'he  only  representa- 
is  a  half-breed  Ha- 
"  her  father,  an  old 
'^as  keeping  a  small 
nia. 

I  quiet  spirit,  and  a 
ho  always  kept  his 
^ils  to  the  stoutest 
lys.  The  mate,  a 
•ol,  was  a  jolly  old 
th  a  sraile,  ready  to 
iiferring  happiness, 
ad  left  his  crimtry 
an  girl  in  the  city 
V  roaming  the  seas 
nd  sliip's  carpenter, 
Id. 
lows.     The  first  in 


TRAVBLS  IN  THE  CALIF  ORNIAS. 


47 


neight  and  importance  was  «  Yankee  Tom  ;"  the  second 
a  pair  of  English  renegadoes,  from  the  royal  navy  or  else- 
where;  next  came  a  number  of  old  tars,  who  hailed  from 
tlie  earth  generally;  then  several  Hawaiians,  and  last  of 
all,  the  cook ;  as  dark  a  piece  of  flesh  as  ever  wore  wool, 
and  as  independent  a  gentleman  as  ever  wrestled  with  a 
soup  pol.  Thus  we  were  all  manned  fore  and  aft.  The 
extremes  of  cursing  and  prayer,  of  authority  and  subservi- 
ency,  law,  divinity,  and  merchandize,  were  there. 

Indeed,  we  had  a  piece  of  everything  in  the  way  of 
thought,  feeling,  taste  and  form,  requisite  to  furnish  a  very 
respectable  hur/ian  menagerie.  And  if  the  shade  of  our 
friend  Cuvier  had  leisure  on  his  hamis  to  look  in  upon  us, 
and  observe  the  paws  of  our  lions,  the  teeth  of  our  tigers, 
the  grins  of  our  apes,  the  wool  of  our  lambs,  and  the  men- 
tal and  physical  qualities  of  each  species,  I  doubt  not  he 
was  satisfied  with  the  diversity  of'  their  powers  and  the 
comi)Ieteness  of  the  collection. 

When  leaving  the  latitude  of  the  islands,  we  had  a  dis- 
tant view  of  the  Taui.  It  was  studded  with  mountains  of 
moderate  elevation,  clothed  with  evergreen  forests.  It  ap- 
peared beautiful  enough  to  be  the  island  of  Indian  Mytho- 
logy under  the  seUing  sun,  where  the  good  will  find  eternal 
hunting,  fishing,  and  women  of  unfading  beauty.  But  our 
ship  stood  away  under  a  strong  breeze,  and  we  soon  lost 
sight  of  the  island  in  the  mist  and  shades  of  night. 

While  making  our  northing  we  experienced  a  great  va- 
riety of  weather.  On  the  first  two  or  three  degrees  it  was 
comparatively  mild,  and  the  generous  breezes  appeared  to 
push  us  on  with  a  right  good  will.  But  on  reaching  the  lati- 
tude beyond  the  Trades,  the  winds  from  the  northwest  over- 
took  us.  These  currents  of  air  in  the  winter  and  spring  are 
exceedingly  rough,  gusty  and  cold;  and  being  often  alternat- 
ed with  the  w^rra  breezes  from  the  torrid  zone,  produce  coi>- 
ditions  of  the  atmosphere,  which,  in  more  senses  than  one, 
may  be  termed  "  variables."     The  balmy  breath  of  one  day 


48 


SCENES     IN    THfi     PACIFIC 


contrasts  strongly  with  the  frozen  blasts  of  another  ;  the  soft 
bright  clouds  from  the  south,  with  the  harsh  dark  shadows 
from  tlie  north,  and  the  rippling  sea  when  the  former  fan» 
it,  with  the  ragged  waves  which  roll  under  the  latter. 

Ten  days  out ;  latitude  thirty-eight ;  wind  fresh  from  tht 
northwest ;  Mr.  Chamberlain  quite  ill,  but  able  to  be  on 
deck  with  his  thermometer ;  the  Charlestown  boys  too  sick 
to  make  music ;  the  Philadelphia  blade's  hair  uncombed  ; 
Mr.  Cobb  very  much  exhilarated  with  the  bold  movement 
of  the  ship ;  the  half-breed  Hawaiian  lass  as  lovely  as  cir- 
cumstances permitted  ;  the  crew  growing  fat  on  salt  beef ; 
the  ship,  making  her  ten  knots,  headed  towards  Cape  Men- 
docino, and  everything  else  in  some  sort  of  condition  ;  thus 
stood  the  affairs  of  our  floating  home. 

Ten  days  more  passed  on,  and  little  change  in  these  things 
occurred,  for  better  or  worse  ;  save  that,  when  we  arrived 
within  a  hundred  miles  of  the  coast,  the  northerly  winds  be- 
came less  violent,  and  their  temperature  higher.  Our  old  bark 
was  as  brave  a  Don  among  the  waters  as  one  would  wish  to 
see.  He  was  of  American  origin,  a  fine  model  of  an  ocean 
cavalier,  and  did  battle  with  the  floods  as  fearlessly  as  any 
ship  that  ever  doubled  the  Cape.  Our  time  on  board,  there- 
fore, went  off"  rather  agreeably;  for  the  speed  of  a  landsman's 
passage  at  sea  is  the  absorbing  element  of  its  pleasures. 

The  officers  and  crew  had  employment  enough  to  occupy 
them,  and  were  usually  in  that  s^reeable  mood  of  body  and 
mind  which  produces  a  good  appetite,  hearty  joking  and 
sound  sleeping.  When  the  winds  were  stiff",  they  busied 
themselves  in  keeping  sails,  ropes,  spars  and  masts  at  their 
appropriate  duties;  and  when  a  warm  sun  and  steady 
breeze  came,  the  sailors  overhauled  the  wormy  biscuits,  re- 
paired old  sails,  picked  oakum,  put  the  spun-yarn  wheel 
in  motion,  while  the  Italian  carpenter  drove  jack-plain, 
and  the  English  mate  gave  us  a  specimen  of  rope-splicing 
and  bending  sails  according  to  the  rules  at  Greenwich. 
I  noticed  on  board  the  Don  Quixote,  and  elsewhere  during 


r 


my  wr 
seame 
Briton 
and  ar 
rope  b 
and  cc 
hull  ol 
devote 
keepin 
The  A 
reads  i 
warks, 
fair-da 
will  d( 
such  s 
his  vei 
Jonath 
of  prii 
he  mu 

Ati 
selves 
coast, 
ingly  I 

Att 
the  sh: 
withe  I 
ing  arr 
below, 
upon  t 
shortei 
ing  tht 
per  oci 
lies  be 
the  w! 
crowd( 
madly 


F  I  0 


TRAVELS     IN     THE    CALIFORN.AS. 


40 


of  another  ;  the  soft 
larsh  dark  shadows 
len  the  former  fans 
der  the  latter, 
vind  fresh  from  tht 
,  but  able  to  be  on 
stown  boys  too  sick 
;'s  hair  uncombed ; 
the  bold  movement 
iss  as  lovely  as  cir- 
[ig  fat  on  salt  beef ; 
towards  Cape  Men- 
:t  of  condition  ;  thus 

ange  in  these  things 
it,  when  we  arrived 

northerly  winds  be- 
higher.  Our  old  bark 
s  one  would  wish  to 
e  model  of  an  ocean 

as  fearlessly  as  any 
lime  on  board,  there- 
peed  of  a  landsman's 
t  of  its  pleasures. 
!nt  enough  to  occupy 
lie  mood  of  body  and 
?,  hearty  joking  and 
;re  stiff,  they  busied 
rs  and  masts  at  their 
rm  sun  and  steady 
le  wormy  biscuits,  re- 
the  spun-yarn  wheel 
er  drove  jack-plain, 
imen  of  rope-splicing 
es  at  Greenwich, 
and  elsewhere  during 


my  wanderings,  a  difference  between  British  and  Ameiicaa 
seamen,  which  I  believe  to  be  quite  general.  It  is  this.  The 
Briton  is  better  acquainted  with  the  things  to  be  done  on  deck 
and  among  the  rigging  than  the  American  is.  He  splices  a 
rope  better ;  he  knows  better  how  to  make  a  ship  look  trim 
and  comely.  But  he  knows  comparatively  nothing  about  the 
hull  of  his  craft.  His  seven  years  apprenticeship  has  been 
devoted  to  learning  the  best  mode  of  sailing  a  vessel  and 
keeping  her  in  good  condition.  He  learns  nothing  more. 
The  American,  on  the  other  hand,  begins  at  the  keel,  and 
reads  up  through  every  timber,  plank  and  spike,  to  the  bul- 
warks. And  although  he  does  all  the  minor  labor  of  the 
fair-day  deck  work  with  less  neatness  and  durability,  yet  he 
will  do  it  so  well,  and  throw  his  canvass  on  the  winds  with 
such  skill  and  daring,  as  to  outsail,  as  well  as  outmanage 
his  very  clever  rival.  The  Fatherland  should  be  proud  of 
Jonathan.  He  is  a  rough,  hard-featured  lad ;  and  in  right 
of  primogeniture,  as  well  as  other  indisputable  relations, 
he  must  succeed  to  the  paternal  power  over  the  seas. 

At  meridian,  on  the  16th  of  April,  we  ascertained  our- 
selves to  be  about  seventy-five  miles  from  the  American 
coast.  All  were  weary  of  the  voyage.  It  had  been  exceed- 
ingly monotonous ;  not  even  a  storm  to  break  its  tedium. 

At  two  o'clock  of  this  day,  however,  we  had  an  incident  in 
the  shape  of  a  squall,  from  the  northwest.  It  was  attended 
with  chilling  winds  which  fell  upon  us  like  a  shower  of  freez- 
ing arrows,  and  drove  everybody,  except  officers  and  seamen, 
below.  The  blowing,  the  raining,  the  clatter  of  quick  feet 
upon  deck,  the  cry  of  the  sailors,  "  heave-a-hoy  !"  as  they 
shorten  sail  and  brace  up  the  yards ;  the  heavy  swells,  beat- 
ing the  ship  like  ponderous  battering-rams ;  the  air,  that  up- 
per ocean,  running  its  flood  most  furiously  upon  that  which 
lies  beneath ;  our  vessel  riding  the  one  as  if  escaping  from 
the  wrath  of  the  other  ;  the  upper  surface  of  the  airy  seas, 
crowded  with  fleets  of  thunder-clouds  chasing  each  other 
madly,  and  sending  out  the  fire  and  noise  of  terrible  conflict . 


1 


60 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


These  are  the  features  of  that  squall.  Our  good  ship 
reeled  and  trembled  under  the  shock  of  the  waters  and 
winds,  as  if  her  planks  and  timbers  were  separating. 

Below  at  such  a  time  was  doubtless  our  safest  berth,  but 
that  was  far  from  being  peculiarly  comfortable  !  About  h^li 
of  the  passengers  were  on  each  side  of  the  cabin,  holding  at 
the  berths ;  and  when  the  ship  rose  on  a  billow  and  careen- 
ed, it  straightened  those  on  the  larboad  side  like  lamprey- 
eels  hanging  to  rocks ;  while,  as  the  surge  passed  on,  the 
ship  careened  the  othey  way,  making  eels  of  those  on  the 
starboad  side !  The  furniture  tumbled,  the  steward  giving 
chase  fell  in  the  midst  of  it ;  the  Hawaiian  lass  attemp'ed  to 
gain  her  berth  and  fell ;  and  tumult,  danger,  sublimity,  and 
the  ridiculous,  united  to  provoke  alternatively  our  laughter, 
fear  and  admiration.  It  cleared  up  in  an  hour,  however, 
and  we  went  on  agviin  pleasantly,  under  a  three-knot  breeze. 

On  the  evening  of  the  17th,  we  heard  right  gladly  the 
cry  of  "  Land  ho  !"  Where  away  ?"  "  A  little  on  tho 
starboard  bow  !"  I  was  in  the  cabin  at  the  time.  Any 
other  word  spoken  with  a  greater  volume  of  voice  would 
have  passed  unheard.  But  land  !  land  !  the  solid  land  ! 
with  its  odor  of  earth  and  flower,  is  a  word  which,  if  utter- 
ed in  a  whisper,  has  deep  music  for  one  who  has  for  twenty 
odd  days  been  stunned  by  contentious  waves  ;  a  sweetness 
and  vigor  of  meaning  to  the  weary  wayfarer  on  the  seas, 
which  must  be  heard, — "  Land  ahead." 

Its  winged  messengers  already  twittered  in  the  rigging  ! 
The  shores  loomed  on  the  edge  of  the  horizon !  The 
white  cliffs  on  the  north  side  of  Monterey  Bay,  in  Upper 
California,  were  in  sight !  We  kept  our  course  towards  them 
till  daylight-down,  and  then  beat  off  and  on  till  the  dawn 
of  the  following  morning. 

A[n-il  iStL  The  land,  the  glorious  old  land,  is  near  us  on 
our  left — five  miles  away  !  The  cattle  of  the  Mission  Santa 
Cruz  are  grazing  on  the  hill !  The  matin  bells  are  ringing 
firom  its  tower,  and  the  arrowy  light  is  routing  the  darknesg 


T 


r  r  I  c. 


Our  good  ship 
of  tlie  waters  unci 
re  separating, 
ur  safest  berth,  but 
artable !   About  hull 
le  cabin,  holding  at 
I  billow  and  careen- 
side  like  laraprey- 
rge  passed  on,  the 
!els  of  those  on  the 
the  steward  giving 
in  lass  attempted  to 
nger,  sublimity,  and 
atively  our  laughter, 
an  hour,  however, 
a  three-knot  breeze, 
rd  right  gladly  the 
"  A  little  on  the 
at  the.  time.      Any 
ime  of  voice  would 
d  !  the  solid  land  ! 
vord  which,  if  utter- 
3  who  has  for  twenty 
waves  ;  a  sweetness 
yfarer  on  the  seas, 

jred  in  the  rigging  ! 
the  horizon !  The 
?rey  Bay,  in  Upper 
course  towards  them 
i>d  on  till  the  dawn 

Id  land,  is  near  us  on 
)f  the  Mission  Santa 
tin  bells  are  ringing 
-outing  the  darkness 


r 


I:"'*"' ililiiv 

iiliili  I  ill! ''''''' 


liiUiiijiiii;iji::ili:iiiiii"" 


I 


from  tl 

spring 

A  suni 

very  p 

Ab 

near  t 

northe 

flows  1 

snug  1 

chapel 

on  wh 

Beyon 

into  lo 

of  pini 

Fro 

by  lov 

grow  I 

greeni 

the  al 

pastui 

grisly 

Ab( 

terey. 

senge 

Thes 

hundr 

tom-h 

a  par 

Califc 

can  ei 

Iv\ 

fresh 

dininj 

ades] 

heart 

of  S] 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIA  8. 


51 


from  the  Californian  mountains !  A  morning  of  the  blooming 
spring  poured  down  from  Heaven  on  this  Italy  of  America ! 
A  sunrise  on  the  land ;  and  the  conquered  night  where  it 
very  properly  may  be,  running  wild  over  the  seas ! 

A  breeze  from  the  west  drove  us  slowly  down  the  bay,  so 
near  the  shore  that  we  had  a  clear  view  of  it.  At  the 
northeast  corner  of  the  bay  is  a  green  gorge,  down  which 
flows  a  small  stream  of  pure  water.  Near  its  mouth,  on  a 
snug  little  plain,  stands  the  mission  of  Santa  Cruz,  with  its 
chapel  and  adobie  Indian  huts.  Around  it  are  some  fields, 
on  which  the  Indians  raise  grains,  vegetables  anid  grapes. 
Beyond  this,  to  the  northward,  the  country  swells  away 
into  lofty  hills,  covered  with  grass  and  sprinkled  with  copses 
of  pine  and  oak. 

From  Santa  Cruz  down  to  Monterey,  the  land  is  broken 
by  low  hills,  too  rough  for  general  cultivation,  upon  which 
grow  a  few  trees  of  a  soft  and  worthless  character.  But  the 
greenness  of  the  whole  surface  in  the  spring  of  the  year,  and 
the  absence  of  any  abode  of  man,  make  it  very  appropriate 
pasture-ground  for  the  wild  horses,  cattle,  mules,  and  the 
grisly  bears,  lions  and  elk,  that  herd  upon  it. 

About  five  o'clock  we  round  to,  under  the  Castle  of  Mon- 
terey. The  boat  is  lowered,  the  captain  and  part  of  the  pas- 
sengers get  aboard  of  her,  and  shove  off  for  the  landing. 
The  ship  meanwhile  lies  off  and  on  within  hail.  When  a 
hundred  fathoms  from  the  shore  we  are  hailed  by  the  cus- 
tom-house barge,  and  ordered  back  to  the  ship!  Whereupon 
a  parley  takes  place,  during  which  we  are  informed  that 
California  is  in  a  state  of  revolution,  and  that  no  foreigners 
can  enter  the  country. 

I  was  emaciated  with  sea-sickness,  enfeebled  for  want  o* 
fresh  food,  and  altogether  so  miserable  at  the  idea  of  not 
dining  that  day  upon  Californian  beans  and  beef,  that  I  made 
a  desperate  effort  to  express  in  Spanish  the  honest  rage  of  my 
heart  at  such  treatment.  But  having  uttered  French  instead 
of  Spanish  wrath,  I  was  about  correcting  myself,  when  a 


63 


•CBNER     IN     THE     PAPirrC 


'enn  villainoun  pliysiognnmy,  supported  a  lank,  long-armed 
and  long-shinned  carcass,  in  lieutenant's  epaulettps, replied 
in  French,  'VM,  mon  frdre  Franpais^^*  and  immediately 
gave  orders  for  us  to  land.  The  boat  therefore  ran  through 
the  surf,  grazed  upon  the  rocks,  and  lay  dry  on  the  beach. 


T 


CHAPTER    IV. 

Miither  Earth— Rcvol, it  ion — Aiiiorican«  nml  P'-ilisli  in  Prison— A  G<iar\1— 
A  Governor— An  IniiMview— An  Alc.iMi'— A  l'ass|)orl— A  runninR  Sa- 
lute—Crios  for  Air  and  Wali'r— Di'spnir— A  Horrid  Nifilii— Starvation 
— Diinfjcons — A  Demand — Sifjnals — A  course  adopli'd— A  Leafol'IIi? 
fory — General  Kciinanda  and  his  Deeds — A  Tennessean  Unnter  and  a 
Clerk— A  Canip  Forino<l— A  I,ea^'uc — A  March— An  Aiiack— A  Ban- 
ishment—  IndeiK-ndenee— An  old  Melliod  of  UewardiMi;  Friend)" — A  No- 
litication — A  Junto — Wafers  and  Scuoritas — A  Siraiagum  and  its  Con- 
sequences— Names  oi'  Prisoners. 

On  the  land  !  The  human  frame  derives  its  vital  element? 
from  the  generous  land  !  The  earth  is  our  mother,  and  she 
seems  to  rejoice  when  her  chililren  tread  her  threshold  and 
ask  her  for  bread  and  happiness. 

We  inquired  the  cause  of  the  reported  tumult  in  the  coun- 
try, and  were  answered  in  brief 'whispers!  The  speakers 
looked  cautiously  around  them  for  listening  ears  and  Spanish 
rapiers.  It  was  difficult  to  find  a  man  with  nn  English  tongue 
and  a  white  skin,  who  dared  converse  alone  with  us  on  any 
subject.  Indeed,  it  was  impossible  to  do  so.  For  whenever 
the  attempt  was  made,  some  Spaniard  drew  stealthily  near  to 
listen !  And  when  the  gentleman  from  the  ship  left  the  land- 
ing for  the  town,  in  company  with  some  American  and  British 
residents,  the  government  officers  mingled  among  them,  and 
changed  the  conyersation  as  ot\cn  as  it  turned  upon  what  thev 


tei  tiKH 
hllle. 
We  eti 
oi  Lar 
ollicer 
gt'iu'ra 
incjuirt 
notliin. 
his  pel 
from  ll 
trioiis 
cigar,  J 

"Ric 
who  hu 
of  ceil i 
that  oil 
thirslin 
to  be  Si 
Can  th 
solved  I 
voice  sj 

The 
oneself 
mission 
Mr.  La 
governf 
of  men, 
of  "  glli 
what  pE 
the  mar 
a  descri 
feet,  lea 
anythin; 
had  notl 
sions  wi 
rades  w 


I  r  f  p 

I  a  lank,  long-armed 
'.sppiiulettps,rpplifd 
,"  and  immediately 
lierofore  ran  through 
y  dry  on  the  beach. 


TBAVCt.l     IN     THK     CAI.  IFUHNIAS. 


S3 


sli  in  Prison— A  Gnani— 
Piisspori— A  running  Sa- 
lorriil  Ni^'lii— Starvation 
adiipU'd— A  Loaf  ol' Hi" 
'ciinesscan  Hunter  and  ■ 
rch— An  Aiiack— A  Ban- 
'wardiiiij  t'riend!" — A  No- 
/V  iSiraiagcm  and  its  Cun- 


ves  its  vital  element? 

our  mother,  and  she 

id  her  threshold  and 

d  tumult  in  the  coun- 
)ers!  The  speakers 
ling  ears  and  Spanish 
th  an  English  tongue 
alone  with  us  on  any 
lo  so.  For  whenever 
rew  stealthily  near  to 
the  ship  left  the  land- 
American  and  Brilihh 
;led  among  them,  and 
urned  upon  what  thev 


tfi  tncd  "  the  revolution."  Men  of  stout  hearts  even  spoke 
littlr.  1,1(0  appeal (m1  to  hang  upon  a  lircatii  in  Monterey  ! 
V\  e  entt-red  tlic  housi;  ofuu  Aiiaritiin  mndiant  hy  the  name 
of  Larkin,  and  sut  down  to  tea.  We  ihd  not  eat  alone  I  An 
ollicer  of  the  government  sat  with  us !  Conversation  ran  on 
gtiii-ral  topics.  'I'he  cause  of  tlic  apparent  trepidation  was 
iiupiired  into  hy  an  American  from  tiie  J)on  Quixote,  hut 
nothing  could  he  elicited.  The  official  sat  erect,  swelled 
his  person  into  dignity,  ate  heartily,  dnmk  deeply,  rose  first 
fioiii  the  table,  an  intimation  that  we  might  follow  his  illus- 
trious example;  burned  his  lingers  in  smoking  a  pajjcr 
cigar,  and  at  length  rolled  his  greasy  form  out  of  doors, 

"  Kid  of  you  at  last,  thank  God,"  said  a  little  Englishman, 
who  had  dropped  in  during  supper,  "  and  now  for  talk  inside 
of  ceilings."  We  soon  learned  from  Mr.  Larkin  and  others, 
that  one  hundred  and  fifty  odd  Americans  and  Hritons  were 
thirsting  and  starving  in  the  prisons  of  the  town  and  destined 
to  be  sacrificed  to  Spanish  malignity  !  The  question  arose, 
Can  they  be  saved  ]  It  was  hoped  they  might ;  it  was  re- 
solved on  our  lives  that  they  should  be  ;  while  all  in  a  low 
voice  spoke  of  the  uncertainty  of  life  foranhour  in  Monterey! 

The  first  duty,  on  setting  foot  in  California,  is  to  report 
oneself  to  the  governor,  and  obtain  from  him  a  written  per- 
mission to  remain  in  the  country.  This  I  proceeded  to  do. 
Mr.  Larkin  was  obliging  enough  to  accompany  me  to  the 
governor's  residence.  We  found  before  it  a  small  number 
of  men,  who  were  usually  complimented  with  the  cognomen 
of  "  guard."  They  consisted  of  five  half-breed  Indians,  and 
what  passed  for  a  white  corporal,  lounging  about  the  door  in 
the  manner  of  grog-shop  savans.  Their  outer  man  is  worth 
a  description.  They  wore  raw  bull's-hide  sandals  on  their 
feet,  leathern  breeches,  blankets  about  their  shoulders,  and 
anything  and  everything  upon  their  heads.  Of  arras,  they 
had  nothing  which  deserved  the  name.  One  made  preten- 
sions  with  an  old  musket  without  lock  ;  and  his  four  com- 
rades were  equally  heroic,  with  kindred  pieces,  so  deeply 


Co 


SCENTS     IN     THE     PACIFIC 


rusted,  that  the  absence  of  locks  wouhl  have  been  an  un- 
portant  item  in  estiiiuiting'  their  value. 

We  passed  tliis  valorous  body,  ascended  a  fliglit  of  stairs, 
and  entered  the  presence  of  governor  Juan  Baptiste  Alva- 
lado  ;  awell-fornied,  full-blooded,  Culiforniun  Spaniard,  five 
feet  eleven  inches  in  height,  with  coal-black  curly  hair,  deep 
black  eyes,  fiercely  black  eye-brows,  high  cheek  bones,  an 
aquiline  nose,  line  white  teeth,  brown  complexion,  and  the 
clearly  marked  mein  of  a  pompous  coward,  clad  in  the 
broad-cloth  and  whiskers  of  a  gentleman. 

When  we  entered  he  was  silting  behind  a  kind  of  writ- 
ing-desk, at  the  farther  end  of  the  room.  He  rose  as  we 
entered,  and  received  us  with  the  characteristic  urbanity  of 
a  Spanish  body  without  a  soul  ;  waved  us  to  cliairs,  when 
he  would  have  seen  us  tumbling  from  the  balcony  ;  smiled 
graciously  at  us  with  one  corner  of  his  mouth,  while  he 
cursed  us  with  the  other  ;  seated  himself,  laid  up  his  arms 
and  hands  on  the  upper  shelf  of  his  abdomen,  and  asked  if 
the  ship  had  anchored  ! 

El  Goubernador  had  sundry  reasons  for  making  this  inquiry 
concerning  the  Don  Quixote.  The  chief  one,  however,  was, 
that  he  and  his  officers,  like  all  their  predecessors,  had  been 
in  the  habit  of  looking  on  the  arrival  of  a  ship  in  the  port  of 
Monterey  as  a  discharge  of  debts  and  a  license  fornew  levies 
on  their  credit.  Let  it  not  be  supposed  that  I  believe  a  Cali- 
fornian  Spaniard  is  ever  so  far  lalse  to  his  nature,  as  to  wish 
his  debts  paid,  while  his  credit  will  supply  his  wants.  My 
investigations  into  the  character  of  hrs  progenitors  both  In- 
dian and  Spanish,  will  always  preserve  me  from  such  an 
error.  Nor  would  I  have  it  believed,  that  the  transplanted 
chivalry  of  the  Andalusians  does  not  absolutely  boil  and 
bubble,  at  the  bare  thought  of  not  being  ab.e  to  plunder  from 
the  rest  of  mankind ;,  gentleman's  living.  Any  sucli  impeach- 
ment of  the  sagacity  and  scrupulousness  of  these  men  would 
be  a  wrong  ngainst  which  my  sense  of  justice  would  most 
vehemently  jM-utcst      In  plain  words,  then,  at  the  time  the 


I  F  I  C 

1(1  have  been  an  un- 

idetl  a  Hight  of  stairs, 
Juan  Baptiste  Alva- 
fornian  Spaniard,  five 
black  curly  hair,  deep 
high  cheek  hones,  an 
complexion,  and  the 
coward,  clad  in  the 
nan. 

•hind  a  kind  of  writ- 
om.  He  rose  as  we 
racleristic  urbanity  of 
;d  us  to  chairs,  when 
I  the  balcony  ;  smiled 
his  mouth,  while  he 
self,  laid  up  his  arms 
bdomen,  and  asked  if 

for  making  this  inquiry 
ief  one,  however,  was, 
jredecessors,  had  been 
f  a  ship  in  the  port  of 
1  license  fornew  levies 
1  that  I  believe  a  Cali- 
I  his  nature,  as  to  wish 
upply  his  wants.  My 
rs  progenitors  both  In- 
erve  me  from  such  an 
,,  that  the  transplanted 
)t  absolutely  boil  and 
ig  abiC  to  plunder  from 
ig.  Any  such  impeach- 
tjss  of  these  men  would 
of  justice  would  most 
I,  then,  at  the  time  the 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFOBNIAS. 


55 


Don  Quixote  came  into  the  bay,  Alvarado  and  his  officers 
were  deeply  in  debt,  and  distressed  only  to  select  means  of 
paying  them,  accordant  with  Californian  honor.  The  arrival 
of  a  ship  in  port  furnished  just  these  means.  The  manner 
in  which  it  did  so  may  be  unworthy  of  specification. 

El  Aha  California  is  a  department  of  the  Mexican  Repub- 
lic ;  and  by  law  the  moneys  collected  for  port-dues  and  duties 
belong  to  the  revenue  of  the  central  government.  But  as  the 
right  to  life,  property,  and  the  pursuit  of  happiness  is,  among 
the  Californian  Spaniards,  construed  to  authorize  both  indi- 
viduals and  States  to  defraud,  plunder  and  murder,  if  they  find 
it  s.afe  and  lucrative  to  do  so,  the  freemen,  or  rather  the  Gov- 
ernor of  California  and  his  subalterns,  were  in  the  habit  of 
commuting  a  large  portion  of  the  port-dues  and  duties,  for 
certain  sums  of  money  and  quantities  of  goods  for  their  own 
personal  use.  Their  capacity  for  this  kind  of  plundering 
formed  in  part  the  basis  of  their  credit  with  foreign  mer- 
chants and  traders,  from  whom  they  obtained  their  supplies. 

Hence  the  anxieties  of  Sa  Excellentissimo  about  the  bark. 
If  she  had  come  to  anchor  there  must  necessarily  be  a  small 
chance  for  robbery  in  the  tonnage  dues  ;  and  if  richly  laden 
with  goods  subject  to  duties,  she  would  be  quite  a  mine, 
which  he  already  dreamed  himself  plundering  with  golden 
success.  As  soon  as  we  could  turn  his  attention  from  these 
hopes  of  gain,  Mr.  Larkin  informed  him  of  my  wishes,  and 
with  much  deference  suggested  the  humanity  of  transferring 
me  from  idleness  on  shipboard  to  the  enjoyment  of  Castilian 
industry  ashore  ;  to  wit,  lounging,  grinning,  sleeping,  and 
smoking  rolls  of  paper  tinctured  with  "  the  weed." 

Sa  Excellentissimo  found  it  difficult  to  comprehend  the 
necessity  of  the  request,  inasmuch  as  the  bark  might  come 
to  anchor  for  my  quiet  and  health,  in  which  case  Fwould  be 
permitted  as  seamen  were,  to  be  on  shore  during  her  stay  in 
port.  But  being  informed  that  there  were  no  goods  on  board 
the  bark,  that  it  was  not  intended  to  bring  her  to  anchor,  and 
that,  consequently,  neither  bribes  nor  Mexican  tribute  would 


66 


SCENES    IN     THl.     PACIFIC. 


be  paid  to  Don  Juan  Baptiste  Alvarado,  El  (}oubernador 
iel  Alta  California,  he  frankly  confessed  that  he  saw  no 
necessitj ,  indicated  by  his  interest,  why  I  should  ever  have 
existed,  and  still  less  made  any  of  my  pleasures  depende.  l- 
on  him  or  his  Alta  California. 

This  I  esteemed,  as  in  all  chivalry  I  was  bound  to  do,  an 
exhibition  of  the  great  elevation  of  character  as  well  as  an  in- 
dication of  the  height  from  which  Sa  Excellentissimo  had 
descended  to  reach  my  case  !  Therefore,  1  bowed  assent  to 
the  majesty  of  such  philanthropic  and  truly  civilized  opinions. 
What  man  in  Castilian  presence  could  do  otherwise  1    But 
a  doubt  still  hung  over  the  eyebrows  of  the  don.  He  looked 
at  my  height,  six  feet  Green  Mountain  u»easure  ;  at  my  ward- 
robe, consisting  of  a  Hudson  Bay  Company's  frockcoat  of 
blue,  a  speckled  vest  from  London,  pants  of  English  extrac- 
tion,' boots  from  the  lapstones  of  Lynn  ;  and,  shrugging  Ins 
shoulders  like  a  grisly  bear  in  an  effort  to  be  a  gentleman, 
said  we  could  go  to  the  alcalde  ;  then  with  most  sovereign 
emphasis  bowed  us  out  of  his  presence ! 

The  alcalde  was  at  home,  or  rather  in  his  adobie  den  ;  for 
there  is  neither  a  home  nor  the  semblance  of  it  in  all  the 
Spanish  world.  He  was  taking  his  siesta,  or  midday  nap,  on 
a  bull's  hide  in  the  corner  of  his  apartment.  The  dog,  which 
had  barked  us  into  his  presence,  had  awakened  him ;  so  that 
when  we  entered  the  room,  he  was  rolling  his  burly  form 
towards  a  chair.     After  being  well-seated,  and  having  with 
some  difficulty  brought  his  eyes  to  bear  upon  us,  he  was 
pleased  to  remark  that,  the  weather  was  fine,  and  that  various 
other  things  existed  in  a  definite  state  ;  as  that  his  dog  was 
very  fat ;  the  bean  crop  gave  good  promise  ;  the  Ha.>auan 
Islands  were  ten  leagues  from  Monterey  ! ! !  the  Californi. 
ans  were  very  brave  men;  and  that  the  Don  Quixote  had 
not  come  to  anchor ! !     To  each  of  these  announcements  1 
gave  an  unqualified  assent. 

Having  ascertained  by  these  means  that  I  was  well- 
mstructed  in  beasts,  beans,  men  and  geography,  he  imme- 


A 
neci 
it  w 
the 
and 
hou 
in  0 
doo 

V 

mat: 

of  A 

Brit 

fain 

suit! 

drea 

cam 

oftl 

few 

midi 

hf.&t 
II 

soon 


ric. 

o,  El  (roubernador 
seel  that  he  saw  no 
J  I  should  ever  have 
pleasures  dependei '.' 

was  bound  to  do,  an 
icter  as  well  as  an  in- 
Excellentissimo  had 
•e,  1  bowed  assent  to 
ily  civilized  opinions. 
1  do  otherwise  1    But 
f  the  don.  He  looked 
neasure;atmy  ward- 
mpany's  frockcoat  of 
Its  of  English  extrac- 
I ;  and,  shrugging  his 
rt  to  be  a  gentleman, 
I  with  most  sovereign 
;e! 

in  his  adobie  den  ;  for 
dance  of  it  in  all  the 
ita^  or  midday  nap,  on 
nent.  The  dog,  which 
Lwakened  him ;  so  that 
rolling  his  burly  form 
;ated,  and  having  with 
)ear  upon  us,  he  was 
IS  fine,  and  that  various 
e  ;  as  that  his  dog  was 
romise  ;  the  Hu  A'aiian 
jrey  ! ! '.  the  Californi- 
the  Don  Quixote  had 
hese  announcements  I 

ans  that  I  was  well- 
1  geography,  he  imme- 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORM-vS. 


57 


I 


diivtely  tool:  me  into  favor,  expressed  great  surprise  thai  my 
friend  should  have  thought  that  he  could  refuse  my  request, 
and  assured  me  that  it  gave  him  infinite  pleasure  to  write 
me  a  permission  of  residence.  Here  it  is.  When  the 
reader  is  informed  that  it  was  an  impromptu  production,  he 
will  be  able  to  estimate,  in  a  faint  degree  indeed,  the  in- 
telligence and  genius  of  the  Californians.  Only  one  hour 
and  a  quarter  were  consumed  in  bringing  it  forth  ! 

Mr.  Thomas  J.  Farnham  pasagero  en  la  barca  Americana  Don  Qnixoti 
habiendama  manifesta  do  el  pasporte  de  su  consul  y  queriendo  quidar  en 
tierra  a  (vertarblesse)  en  su  salud  le  doy  el  presente  bolito  de  des  en  barco 
en  el  puerta  de  Monterey  1 1 

A  18  de  Abril  de  1840. 

AwTONio  Ma.  Ohio. 

A  permission  this  to  remain  on  shore  as  long  as  might  be 
necessary  for  the  restoration  of  my  health  !  Having  received 
it  with  many  demonstrations  of  regard,  we  took  our  leave  of 
the  illustrious  dignitary  under  a  running  salute  from  his  dog, 
and  repaired  to  el  casa  del  goubernador  (the  governor's 
house) .  The  dog  accompanied  us.  He  appeared  to  rejoice 
in  our  presence.  After  he  saw  us  pass  into  the  governor's 
door  he  howled  piteously,  and  trotted  off  toward  the  prisons. 

We  obtained  from  Sa  Excellentissimo  a  written  confir- 
mationof  the  alcalde's  document,  and  returned  to  the  house 
of  Mr.  Larkin.  There  we  met  a  number  of  Americans  and 
Britons,  from  whom  we  learned  that  their  countrymen  were 
famishing  unto  death  in  the  prisons  of  the  town !  A  con- 
sultation, held  in  an  upper  room,  in  whispeis,  under  the 
dreadful  ceitainty  that  death  would  be  the  penalty  if  it  be- 
came known  to  the  demon  government,  ended  the  labors 
of  that  day  and  night !  The  house  of  my  friend  was  but  a 
few  rods  from  some  of  the  prisons,  and  when  all  was  still  at 
midnight,  I  could  hear,  between  the  breaking  surges  on  the 
iK.ach,  the  prisoners  cry — 

"  Breathe  fast,  for  God's  sake !  I  must  come  to  the  grate 
soon  or  \  shall  suffocate !" 


BCENE8     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 

'«  Give  me  water,  you  merciless  devils !  give  me  water !" 
"You  infernal  sons  of  the  Inquisition,  give  me  drink  or  fire 

on  me  !" 

And  then  another  voice  at  the  grate  exclaimed,  "  Give 
us  something  to  eat !  O  God,  we  shall  die  here !  We  can't 
breathe!     Half  of  us  can't  speak !"  ^  ^^ 

And  then  another  voice,  husky  and  weak,  said  "  "".Vhy !' 
in  a  tone  of  despairing  agony,  which  became  so  low  and 
inarticulate  that  I  could  not  hear  what  followed.  I  had  not 
seen  the  prisoners,  but  their  cries  banished  sleep  and  all 
desire  to  rest.  I  therefore  went  out  upon  the  balcony  and 
seating  myself  in  a  dark  nook  watched,  as  well  as  I  was 
able,  the  movements  in  the  town. 

A  portion  of  (he  troops  were  on  duty  as  an  armed  patrol. 
The  tap  of  the  drum  and  the  challenge,  "  Quin  vive  V  whh 
the  reply,  "  Californias  ;"  "  Quin  jente  ?"  and  the  response, 
"  Mexicanos,"  broke  in  upon  their  heavy,  sounding  tramp! 
About  four  o'clock  the  men  in  the  castello,  or  fort,  became 
alarmed  by  the  cracking  of  dry  brush  in  the  neighboring 
wood,  and  the  patrol  rushed  to  their  rescue.     It  proved  to 
be  the  echo  of  their  fears.     The  patrol  soon  returned  to 
their  posts,  and   silence  p^min  reigned.     It  was  a  horrid 
night !     Nature  was  laughing  and  bright  on  earth  and  in  the 
sky.     But  fiends  had  gone  forth  to  mar  her  beauty.     The 
same  spirit  which  had  devastated  the  virtues  and  freedom 
of  half  the  earth  was  abroad  in  the  wilds  of  California,  as 
of  old  in  Chili,  torturing  those  whose  courage  their  bravado 
could  not  subdue,  or  their  pretension  intimidate ! 

The  sun  came  up  next  morning  most  brightly  in  that  clear 
blue  sky  of  California :  but  it  shone  on  sadder  hearts  than  I 
had  ever  before  seen.  The  flowers  were  creeping  up  along 
llie  streets ;  and  the  grasses,  invigorated  by  the  winter  rains 
and  the  warm  days  of  spring,  were  growing  on  the  hills ;  the 
cattle  and  wild  animals  roamed  about  enjoying  the  rich  liberty 
which  nature  gave  them.  They  possessed  no  qualities  which 
could  excite  the  wakefulness  of  Spanish  malignity !     They 


were 

and  I] 
blade 

Mr 
day  t 
cells 
grour 
sever; 
slept 
eight( 
once, 
were 
to  sus 
whicl 
them 
exce[ 
darin: 
some 
one  £ 
theg( 
ed  th 
treatf 
bathe 

Sir 
on. 
harbc 
that  I 
passe 
himsc 
he  w 
such, 
impre 
circui 
its  hi 
high! 
duct  [ 


TIC. 

give  me  water !" 
vc  me  drink  or  fire 

exclaimed,  "  Give 
e  here !    We  can't 

Mk,said«r/hy!'' 
jcarae  so  low  and 
llowed.  I  had  not 
lied  sleep  and  all 
)n  the  balcony  and 
I,  as  well  as  I  was 

IS  an  armed  patrol. 
'  Qiiin  vive "?"  with 
"  and  the  response, 
y,  sounding  tramp! 
Ilo,  or  fort,  became 
in  the  neighboring 
iciie.     It  proved  to 
1  soon  returned  to 
I.     It  was  a  horrid 
;  on  earth  and  in  the 
her  beauty.     The 
irtues  and  freedom 
Js  of  California,  as 
mrage  their  bravado 
itimidate ! 

jrightly  in  that  clear 
sadder  hearts  than  I 
re  creeping  up  along 
1  by  the  winter  rains 
ing  on  the  hills ;  the 
)^'ing  the  rich  liberty 
;d  no  qualities  which 
h  malignity !     They 


T  n  A  V  i;  1. 


1  N     r  It  i:    c  4  1.     K  o  li  y  1  A  9. 


f>9 


were  .ouinsj;  and  frolicUitig  out  their  freedom  on  the  kind 
and  beautiful  earth.  But  man  was  raising  the  murderous 
blade  against  his  fellow  ! 

Mr.  Larkin  made  arrangements  with  the  government  to- 
day to  furnish  the  prisoners  willi  food  and  drink.  Their 
cells  were  examined  and  found  destitute  of  floors!  The 
ground  within  was  so  wet  tliat  the  poor  fellows  sunk  into  it 
several  inches  at  every  slop.  On  this  they  stood,  sat  and 
slept !  From  fifty  to  sixty  were  crowded  into  a  room 
eighteen  or  twenty  feet  square!  They  could  not  all  sit  at 
once,  even  in  that  vile  pool,  still  less  lie  down  !  The  cells 
were  so  low  and  tight  that  the  only  way  of  getting  air  enough 
to  sustain  life,  was  to  divide  themselves  into  platoons,  each  of 
which  in  turn  stood  at  the  grate  awhile  to  breathe  !  Most  of 
them  had  been  in  prison  seven  or  eight  days,  with  no  food 
except  a  trifling  quantity,  clandestinely  introduced  by  a  few 
daring  countrymen  outside.  When  I  arrived  at  the  prisf)n3 
some  of  them  were  frantic ;  others  in  a  stupor  of  exhaustion ; 
one  appeared  to  be  dying  !  An  American  citizen  went  to 
the  governor  with  a  statement  of  their  condition,  and  demand- 
ed that  both  Americans  and  Britons  should  be  handsomely 
treated  ;  that  they  should  have  air,  food,  drink,  permission  to 
bathe,  anddry  hides  wherewith  to  cover  the  mud  in  their  cells. 

Since  our  arrival  the  Don  Quixote  had  been  lying  ofl'and 
on.  She  usually  ran  out  one  morning  and  swept  into  the 
harbor  the  next.  This  circumstance,  together  with  the  fact 
that  ihis  American  was  always  on  the  shore  when  the  vessel 
passed  the  anchorage,  makingsignals  to  her,  which  neither 
himself  nor  those  on  board  understood,  created  the  idea  that 
he  was  an  official  of  the  American  Government,  and  as 
such,  had  rights  which  i'  would  bo  well  to  respect.  This 
impression  was  much  strengthened,  both  by  the  accidental 
circumstance  of  his  wearing  a  cutlass  with  an  eagle  upon 
its  hilt,  and  his  holding  restraints  imposed  on  his  acts  as 
highly  insulting  and  disrespectful !  This  course  of  con- 
duct had  the  effect  designed.     Those  cowardly  apologies  of 


60 


SCENES    IN    THE     PACIFIC 


men  became  thoroughly  impressed  that  he  bore  in  hlJi  own 
person  the  combined  powers  of  the  American  Republic  and 
the  British  Empire.  Clothed,  therefore,  with  authority  so 
potent,  he  took  measures  for  the  relief  of  the  prisoners. 

But,  before  entering  upon  the  narration  of  these  measures 
it  will  be  proper  to  give  a  history  of  the  events  which  led  to 
theimprisonmentofthesemen,andtheirintended  immolation. 

In  1836,  a  Mexican  General  by  the  name  of  Echuandra 
was  the  Commandant  General  of  Upper  California.  Some 
years  previous,  as  will  be  particularly  shown  in  another 
place,  he  had  come  up  from  Mexico,  with  a  band  of  fellow- 
myrmidons,  and  having  received  the  submission  of  the  coun- 
try to  the  authorities  of  that  Republic,  commenced  robbing 
the  Government  for  which  he  acted,  and  the  several  inte- 
rests which  he  had  been  sent  to  protect.  Nothing  escaped 
his  mercenary  clutches.  The  people,  the  missions,  and 
the  revenue  were  robbed  indiscriminately,  as  opportunity 
offered.  A  few  of  the  white  population  of  the  country  par- 
ticipated in  these  acts.  But  generally  the  CaliTornians  were 
the  sufferers  ;  and,  as  is  always  the  case  with  unhonored 
rogues,  raised  a  perpetual  storm  of  indignation  about  the 
dishonest  deeds  of  those  whom  they  desired  to  supplant,  for 
the  purpose  of  enacting  the  same  things.  An  occurrence  of 
this  kind  was  the  immediate  cause  of  the  Revolution  in  1836. 

A  vessel  had  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Monterey.  Gen- 
eral Echuandra,  not  having  that  honorable  confidence  in  the 
immaculate  integrity  of  the  custom-house  officers,  which 
thieves  are  accustomed  to  have  in  one  another,  placed  a  guard 
on  board  the  craft,  to  prevent  them  from  receiving  bribes  for 
their  own  exclusive  benefit.  To  this  the  officers  demurred  ; 
and  in  order  to  free  their  territory  from  the  creatures  of  one 
whose  conscience  would  compel  him  to  receive  bribes  for  hi! 
own  pocket  instead  of  theirs,  they  sent  their  own  clerk,  a 
young  rascal  of  the  country,  by  the  name  of  Juan  Baptiste 
Alvaradojto  inform  the  general  that  it  was  improper  to  sug- 
gest, by  putting  a  gtiard  on  board,  that  the  officers  of  the  shi  p 


which 

to  eva 

Th( 

inaliei 

ner;  i 

atlein] 

dream 

ever,  ^ 

who  SI 

than  i 

San  J I 

Nea 

Grahai 

exists  < 

the  bio 

with  h< 

but  kin 

striking 

been  fo 

to  the  u 

and  pre 

threw  i 

he  coul 

He  beci 

that  nol 

ing  wil( 

and  foo 

the  moi 

keen  ey 

ham,  wl 

sessing 

gency. 

furnitun 

a  vivid  1 

uncultiv 

water  n 


n  c 

le  bore  in  hif  oim 
ican  Republic  and 
,  with  authority  so 
f  the  prisoners, 
of  these  measures 
vents  which  led  to 
ended  inimoIaMon. 
tme  of  EchuPrndra 
California.  Some 
shown  in  another 
1  a  band  of  fellow- 
lissionofthe  coun- 
)mmenced  robbing 
1  the  several  inte- 

Nothing  escaped 
the  missions,  and 
ly,  as  opportunity 
jf  the  country  par- 
Cali'fornians  were 
e  with  unhonored 
gnation  about  the 
ed  to  supplant,  for 

An  occurrence  of 
evolution  in  1836. 
f Monterey.  Gen- 
e  confidence  in  the 
se  officers,  which 
ler,  placed  a  guard 
eceiving  bribes  for 
officers  demurred ; 
3  creatures  of  one 
ceive  bribes  for  his 
their  own  clerk,  a 
3  of  Juan  Baptiste 
8  improper  to  sug- 
officersoftheship 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CAt-IPORPJIAS. 


ni 


which  lay  under  the  fort,  either  intended  or  dared  attempt 
to  evade  the  payment  of  duties  ! ! 

The  General,  however,  was  too  well  acquainted  with  his 
malienabie  rights,  to  be  wheedled  out  of  them  in  this  man- 
ner; and  manifested  his  indignation  toward  the  clerk,  for 
atfempting  to  abtrude  his  plebeian  presence  on  his  golden 
dream,  by  ordering  him  to  be  put  in  irons.  Alvarado,  how- 
ever,  escaped.  He  fled  into  the  country,  rallied  the  farmers, 
who  still  loved  the  descendants  of  Philip  the  Second  more 
thnn  El  Prcsidentc,  and  formed  a  camp  at  the  Mission  of 
San  Juan,  thirty  miles  eastward  from  Monterey. 

Near  this  mission  lived  an  old  Tennessean  by  the  name  of 
Graham;  a  stout,  sturdy  backwoodsman,  of  a  stamp  which 
existsonlyon  the  frontiersof  the  American  Stntes-men  with 
the  blood  of  the  ancientNormans  and  Savons  in  their  vein^_ 
with  hearts  as  large  as  their  bodies  can  hold,  beating  nnthin. 
but  kindness  till  injustice  shows  its  fangs,  and  then,  lion-like 
striking  for  vengeance.     This  trait  of  natural  character  had 
been  fostered  in  Graham  by  the  life  he  had  led.  Early  trained 
to  the  use  of  the  rifle,  he  had  learned  to  regard  it  as  his  friend 
and  protector ;  and  when  the  season  of  manhood  arrived,  he 
threw  It  upon  his  shoulder  and  sought  the  wilderness,  where 
he  could  enjoj'  its  protection  and  be  fed  by  its  faithful  aim. 
He  became  a  beaver  hunter-a  cavalier  of  the  wilderness- 
that  noble  specimen  of  brave  men  who  have  muscles  for  rid- 
ing wild  horses  and  warring  with  wild  beasts,  a  steady  brain 
and  foot  for  climbing  the  icy  precipice,  a  strong  breast  for 
the  mountain  torrent,  an  unrelenting  trap  for  the  beaver,  a 
keen  eye  and  a  deadly  shot  for  a  foe.  A  man  was  this  Gra- 
ham, who  stood  up  boldly  before  his  kind,  conscious  of  pos- 
sessing physical  and  mental  powers  adequate  to  any  emer- 
gency.  He  had  a  strong  aversion  to  the  elegant  edifices,  the 
furniture,  wardrobe,  and  food  of  polished  life,  coupled  with 
a  vivid  love  of  mountain  sublimity,  the  beautiful  herbage  on 
uncultivated  districts,  the  wild  animals  and  the  streams  of 
water  roaring  down  the  frozen  heights.     Even  the  grey 


92 


SC  K  N  K  3     IN     THE     P  A  C  I  F  I  P. 


deserts  with  the  hunger  and  thirst  incident  to  Xta  feWme;  over 
them,  had  wild  and  exciting  charms  for  him.  On  tliese  lu3 
giant  fruMje  hud  obstacles  to  contend  with  worliiy  of  its 
powers;  suffering  and  even  old  Death  himself  to  take  by 
the  throat  and  vanquish.  These  and  the  open  air  by  a  pro- 
jecting rock,  with  the  dry  sand  or  the  green  sward  for  a 
hearth  and  couch,  a  crackling  pine  knot  fire  blazing  against 
the  cliffs,  and  rousting  a  buffalo  hump  or  the  sirloin  of  an 
elk,  after  the  day's  hunt  had  ended,  constituted  the  life  he 
was  fitted  to  enjoy. 

He  had  forced  his  way  over  the  Rocky  Mountams  and 
located  himself  in  Upper  California.  This  country  was 
suited  to  his  tastes.  Its  climate  allowed  him  to  sleep  mthe 
open  air  most  of  the  year;  an  abundance  of  native  animals 
covered  the  hills,  and  nature  was  spread  out  luxuriantly 
everywhere,  in  wild  and  untrodden  freshness. 

As  I  have  said,  this  brave  man  resided  near  the  mission  of 
San  Juan.  He  had  erected  there  a  rude  dwelling,  and  a  dis- 
tillery.   On  the  neighboring  plans  he  herded  large  bands  of 
horses,  mules  and  cattle.    To  this  fine  old  fellow  Alvarado 
made  known  his  peril  and  designs  ;  whereupon  the  foreign- 
ers assembled  at  Graham's  summons,  elected  him  their  cap- 
tain, an  Englishman  by  the  name  of  Coppinger,  lieutenant, 
and  repaired  to  San  Juan.  A  council  was  held  between  the 
clerk  and  the  foreigners.    The  former  promised,  that  if  by 
the  aid  of  the  latter  he  should  successfully  defend  himself 
against  the  acting  governor,  and  obtain  possession  of  the 
country,  it  should  be  declared  independent  of  Mexico ;  and 
that  the  law,  which  incapacitated  foreigners  from  holding 
real  estate,  should  be  abrogated.  The  foreigners  agreed,  on 
these  conditions,  to  aid  Alvarado  to  the  utmost  of  their 
power.  The  next  morning  the  united  forces,  fifty  foreigners 
and  twenty-five  Californians,  marched  against  Monterey. 

They  entered  the  town  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day, 
and  took  up  their  position  in  the  woods,  one  hundred  rods  in 
the  rear  of  the  castello  or  fort.    No  event  of  importance 


mouth 
surf,  a 
tliey  V 
fir  the 

Gra 
enemi 
sessioi 
It  is  to 
cat  CO 
crazy 
twent; 
the  re; 
ing  o\ 
scare 
mornii 
their  1 

Ab 
of  thei 
fornia 
deep, 
som  o: 
commi 
crushe 
Thus 

Old 
of  the 
the  SI 
broad- 
his  lai 
heldh 
amon^ 
Dinuni 


I  p. 

totrtt/elliuiTover 
im.  On  tliese  liia 
ilh  worthy  of  its 
mself  to  take  by 
open  air  by  a  pro- 
reen  sward  for  a 
re  blazing  against 
■  the  sirloin  of  an 
itiluted  the  life  he 

:y  Mountains  and 
This  country  was 
lim  to  sleep  in  the 
;  of  native  animals 
id  out  luxuriantly 
mess. 

near  the  mission  of 
welling,  and  a  dis- 
rded  large  bands  of 
Id  fellow  Alvarado 
eupon  the  foreigii- 
cted  him  their  cap- 
ipinger,  lieutenant, 
is  held  between  the 
)romised,  that  if  by 
uUy  defend  himself 
n  possession  of  the 
2nt  of  Mexico;  and 
gners  from  holding 
jreigners  agreed,  on 
he  utmost  of  their 
irces,  fifty  foreigners 
igainst  Monterey, 
on  of  the  same  day, 
one  hundred  rods  in 
event  of  importance 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORtflAS. 


63 


occurred  till  the  night  came  on,  when  the  awe  with  which 
darkness  sonieliines  inspires  evm  the  bruvt-st  minds,  fell 
with  such  overwiielming  power  on  the  valorous  giurisou, 
that  notwiihslanding  they  were  supported  by  the  ojien 
mouths  of  the  guns,  the  barking  of  their  dog,  the  roar  of  the 
Burf,  and  the  liootmg  of  an  owl  on  n  neighboring  tree -top, 
they  were  absolutely  compelled  to  forsake  the  ramparts, 
for  the  more  certain  protection  of  unmolested  flight! 

Graham  and  his  men  perceiving  the  discomforture  of  their 
enemies,  availed  themselves  of  their  absence  by  taking  pos- 
session of  the  evacuated  fort.  Alvarado,  meantime,  actuated, 
It  is  to  be  presumed,  by  a  desire  to  save  life  and  a  philosophi- 
cal conviction  of  the  dangers  incident  to  bullets  rendered 
crazy  by  burning  powder,  restrained  the  fiery  ardor  of  his 
twenty-five  Californians,  and  held  his  own  person  beyond 
the  reach  of  harm,  in  case  some  lui  kless  horse  or  cow  stray- 
ing over  hostile  ground  on  that  memorable  night,  should 
scare  the  fleeing  garrison  into  an  act  of  defence.  The  next 
morning  he  and  his  brave  men  were  found  peering  from 
their  hiding-places  in  a  state  of  great  anxiety  and  alarm ! 

A  battle  had  almost  been  begun  in  Monterey  !  The  blood 
of  their  enemies  had  almost  begun  to  fatten  the  soil  of  Csd- 
fornia !  They  themselves  had  nearly  stepped  in  blood  knee 
deep,  among  the  carcasses  of  the  hated  Mexicans  ;  the  be- 
som of  destruction  had  shaken  itself,  and  had  barely  missed 
commencing  the  havoc  of  bone  and  flesh,  which  would  have 
crushed  every  mote  of  Mexican  life  within  their  borders ! 
Thus  they  gloried  among  the  bushes ! ! 

Old  Graham  stood  at  sunrise  on  the  earth  embankments 
of  the  Castello.  A  hunting  shirt  of  buckskin,  and  pants  of 
the  same  material,  covered  his  giant  frame ;  a  slouched 
broad-brimmed  hat  hung  aroand  his  head,  and  half  covered 
his  large,  quiet,  determined  face !  In  his  right  hand  he 
held  his  rifle,  the  tried  companion  of  many  fearful  strifes 
among  the  savages !  Four  or  five  of  his  men  sat  on  a  dis- 
mounted thirty-two  pounder,  querying  whether  tbey  conld 


64 


BCKNEB     IN     THE     PACIFIC, 


icpair  its  woodwork  so  as  td  bring  it  to  bear  on  the  P.esi.lo 
or  government  house.  Others  stood  by  a  bucket  ot  water, 
swabbing  out  their  ritle  barrels,  and  cleaning  and  drying 
the  locks.  Others  of  them  were  cooking  beef;  others 
whittling,  swearing,  and  chewing  tobacco. 

About  nine  o'clock  flags  of  truce  began  their  onerous 
duties.     Alvarado  came  from  the  woods  and  took  part  in  the 
councils.  The  insurgents  demanded  the  surrender  of  the  Gov- 
ernment ;  whereat  the  cavaliers  of  the  Presido  considered 
themselves  immeasurably  insulted.  Two  days  were  passed  in 
this  parleying  without  advancing  ihcintercstsof  eitherparty. 
They  were  days  big  with  the  fate  of  the  future ;  and  who 
could  weary  under  their  dreadful  burthens  1     Not  such  men 
as  Alvarado.    He  bore  himself  like  the  man  he  was,  through 
all  the  trying  period.  He  uniformly  preferred  delay  to  fight- 
ing !     He  was  sustained  in  this  preference  by  his  right  hand 
villain.  Captain  Jose  Castro.    Indeed,  it  was  the  unanimous 
choice  of  the  whole  Californian  division  of  the  insurgent 
forces,  to  wit,  the  twenty-five  before  mentioned,  to  massacre 
time  instead  of  men.  For  not  a  single  one  of  them  manifested 
the  slightest  impatience  orinsubordination  under  the  delay- 
a  fact  which  perhaps  demonstrates  the  perfection  of  military 
discipline  in  California !     The  foreigners  differed  from  their 
illustrious  allies.  Graham  thought "  two  days  and  two  nights 
a  waitin'  on  them  baors*  was  enough."  Accordingly, taking 
the  responsibility  on  himself,  after  the  manner  of  his  distin- 
guished fellow-statesman,  he  sent  a  flag  to  the  Presido  with 
notice  that  two  hours  only  would  be  given  the  Governor 
and  his  officers  to  surrender  themselves  prisoners  of  war. 
The  demand  of  the  old  Tennessean,  however,  was  disre- 
garded.    The  appointed  time  passed  without  the  surrender. 
Forbearance  was  at  an  end.     The  lieutenant  of  Graham's 
rifle  corps  was  ordered  to  level  a  four  pound  brass  piece  at 
the  Presido.     A  ball  was  sent  through  its  tiled  roof,  imme- 
diately over  the  heads  of  the  Mexican  magnates ! 

♦  Bears. 


It  is 

with  hi 
Nosooi 
valiant 
would  I 
against 
govern  I 
pect  foi 
rus  Jim 
shattert 
rendere 
of gove 
The  en 
clerk  ! 
dra  wai 
good  se 
you,  wt 
monstn 
and  his 
their  fi\ 
longer, 
the  dist 
days ! 
fornian 
The 
NewB 
ped  to 
proclai 
himself 
It  sufliic 
varado 
the  stai 
tion. 
rey  wit 
fnr  mo 
uncle  I 


F  I  C. 

lear  on  the  P.esiilo 

a  bucket  ot  water, 
eaning  and  drying 
king  beef;  otliers 
:o. 

egan  their  onerous 
and  took  part  in  the 
urrender  of  the  Gov- 

Presido  considered 
days  were  passed  in 
irestsofeitherparty. 
le  future  ;  and  who 
ns  1     Not  such  men 
nan  he  was,  through 
'erred  delay  to  fight- 
ce  by  his  right  hand 
t  was  the  unanimous 
on  of  the  insurgent 
ntioned,  to  massacre 
;  of  thera  manifested 
3n  under  the  delay— 
lerfection  of  military 
irs  differed  from  their 
)  days  and  two  nights 

Accordingly, taking 
manner  of  his  distin- 
ig  to  the  Preside  with 
given  the  Governor 
es  prisoners  of  war. 
however,  was  disre- 
/•ithout  the  surrender, 
iitenant  of  Graham's 

pound  brass  piece  at 
I  its  tiled  roof,  imme- 
1  magnates  I 


TRAVELS    IN    THE    CALirORNIAS. 


66 


It  is  wonderful  how  small  a  portion  of  necessity  miagled 
with  human  alfairswill  quicken  men's  perceptions  of  duly. 
Nosoonerdid  the  broken  tiles  rattle  around  the  heads  of  these 
valiant  warriors,  than  they  became  suddenly  convinced  that  it 
would  be  exceedingly  iiazardous  to  continue  their  resistance 
against  such  au  overwiielming  force  ;  and  that  the  cen'rai 
government  at  Mexico  would  not  be  so  unreasonable  as  to  ex* 
pect  four  or  tive  hundred  troops  to  hold  out  against  Los  Rifle- 
ros  Americanos.  This  view  of  the  case,  taken  through  the 
shattered  roof  of  the  Presidio,  was  conclusive.  They  sur- 
rendered at  discretion  !  Alvarado  marched  into  the  citadel 
of  government !  The  Mexican  troops  laid  down  their  arms  ! 
The  emblems  of  office  were  transferred  to  the  custom-house 
clerk  !  When  these  things  had  transpired,  General  Echuan- 
dra  was  pleased  to  say  to  Alvarado  with  the  most  exalted 
good  sense, "  had  we  known  that  we  were  thrice  as  many  as 
you,  we  should  not  have  surrendered  so  soon  ;"  thereby  de- 
monstrating to  the  future  historian  del  Alta  California  that  he 
and  his  friends  would  either  have  fought  the  seventy-five  with 
their  five  hundred  or  protracted  the  siege  of  bravado  much 
longer,  had  they  been  able  to  count  the  said  seventy-five  at 
the  distance  or  five  hundred  yards,  during  the  lapse  of  two 
days  I  Difficulties  in  the  use  of  optics  often  occur  in  Cali- 
fornian  warfare  which  are  not  treated  of  in  the  books. 

The  end  of  this  revolution  came  !  The  schooner  Clarion  of 
New  Bedford  was  purchased,  and  the  Mexican  officers  ship- 
ped to  San  Bias.  Juan  Baptiste  Alvarado  customs'  clerk 
proclaimed  El  Alta  California  an  independent  republic,  and 
himself  its  govenor.  But  more  of  this  on  a  subsequent  page. 
It  suffices  my  present  purpose  to  have  shown  how  far  this  Al- 
varado was  indebted  to  the  foreigners  dying  in  his  prisons  for 
the  station  and  power  which  he  was  using  for  their  desruc- 
tion.  He  could  never  have  obtained  possession  of  Monte- 
rey without  them.  And  had  they  not  slept  on  their  rides 
fnr  months  after  that  event^  a  party  in  the  south  under  his 
uncle  Don  Carlos  Carrillo,  or  another  in  the  north  under  his 


66 


•  CENEt     IK     THE     PACIftC. 


uncle  Oimdalovipe  Viojo,  vtou\d  have  torn  him  from  his  ill- 
goltfn  elevation. 

Thus  upper  California  became  nn  independent  state,  and 
Alvarado  its  governor.  The  central  povornmentut  Mexico 
was  of  course  much  shocked  nt  such  unpolished,  ungloved 
impudence ;  threatened  much,  and  at  last  in  September, 
1837,  induced  Alvarado  to  buy  a  ship,  send  despatches  to 
Mexico,  and  beconu!  El  Gonbcrnador  Const  it  iiHonel  del  Mia 
California^  associated  with  his  uncle  Viejo,  as  Commandnnte 
General.  After  this  adhesion  to  the  Mexican  fJovernment, 
Alvarado  Ix'came  suspicious  of  the  foreigners  who  had  aided 
him  in  the  "  Revolution,"  and  sought  every  means  of  an- 
noying them.  Tliey  might  depose  him  as  they  had  done 
Echuandra.  And  if  vengeance  were  always  a  certain  conse- 
quent  of  injustice,  he  reasoned  well.  The  vagabond  had 
promised,  in  the  day  of  his  need,  to  bestow  lands  on  those 
who  had  saved  his  neck  and  raised  him  to  power.  This  ho 
found  convenient  to  forget.  Like  Spaniards  of  all  ages  and 
countries,  after  having  been  well  served  by  his  friends,  he 
rewarded  them  with  the  most  heartlsss  ingratitude. 

Graham  in  particular  was  closely  watched.  A  bold  open- 
handed  man,  never  concealing  for  an  instant  either  his  love 
or  hatred,  biit  with  the  frankness  and  generosity  of  those 
great  souls,  rough-hewn  but  majestically  honest,  who  be- 
long to  the  valley  States,  he  told  the  Governor  his  sins  from 
time  to  time,  and  demanded  in  the  authorative  tone  of  an 
elder  and  affectionate  brother,  that  he  should  redeem  his 
pledges.  The  good  old  man  did  not  remember  that  a  Span- 
iard would  have  lost  his  nationality  had  he  done  so.  A 
Spaniard  tell  the  truth !  A  Spaniard  ever  grateful  for  ser- 
vices rendered  him  !  He  should  have  knocked  at  the  tombs 
of  Columbus  and  Cortes,  and  every  other  man  who  ever 
served  that  contemptil)le  race.  He  would  have  learned  the 
truth,  and  gathered  wisdom  from  it.  He  asked  for  justice 
ind  received  what  we  shall  presently  see. 

Graham  loved  a  horse,    lie  had  taken  a  fine  gelding  with 


liim  wh 
tlie  tiu-l 
tu  the  c 
bis  nob 
dark  fa 
uneasy 
to  rcqui 
them,  a 
est  debt 

A  not 
cansaru 
the  deal 
for  fore 
Castro  ■ 
Americf 
boine  b; 
not  woe 
sailor,  a 

Such 
ripen  th 
of  baflle 
the  fear 
the  livei 
bitterest 
breath  o 
the  litth 
VNorthies 
'J'heir  pi 
cocted  ii 

Since 
had  bee 
vastly  tl 
the  begi 
to  get  01 
must  be 
challeng 


r  tc  . 

rn  him  from  his  ill- 

ppnclont  state,  and 
ornmciit  at  Mexico 
)olished,  ungloved 
last  in  Si'ptembcr, 
send  desjmtchcs  to 
nstUntionel  del  ^^lla 
o,  as  Commandnnte 
xicanfinvcrnmont, 
ners  who  luul  iiidod 
very  means  of  an- 
i  as  they  had  done 
'ays  a  certain  conse- 
riie  vagabond  liad 
tow  lands  on  those 
to  power.     This  ho 
iards  of  all  ages  and 
1  by  his  friends,  he 
ingratitude, 
hed.     A  bold  opcn- 
istant  either  his  love 
generosity  of  those 
ly  honest,  who  be- 
)vernor  his  sins  from 
lorative  tone  of  an 
should  redeem  his 
Tiemher  that  a  Span- 
ad  he  done  so.     A 
ver  grateful  for  ser- 
nocked  at  the  tombs 
her  man  who  ever 
uld  have  learned  the 
le  asked  for  justice 
;ee. 
n  a  fine  gelding  with 


TRAVELH     IN     THE     CALIFORNIA  8. 


67 


him  when  he  emigrated  to  (ho  country,  and  trained  him  for 
llie  tiuf.  Kvery  year  lie  had  cliallenged  the  whole  country 
to  tlie  course,  and  as  often  won  ev«'rylhiiig  wagered  against 
his  noide  steed.  Jose  Cusiro,  a  villain  with  a  lean  i)ody, 
dark  face,  black  iiiustachios,  pointed  nose,  flabby  cheeks, 
uneasy  eyes,  and  hands  and  heart  so  foul  as  instinclively 
to  recpiire  a  Spanish  cloak,  in  all  sorts  of  weaiher,  to  cover 
theiu,  and  his  Kxcellentissimo  w(!re  among  (Jralmin's  heavi- 
est debtors,     lieliold  the  reasons  of  their  enmity. 

Another  cause  of  the  general  fieelings  against  the  Ameri- 
cans and  Ihitons  in  ('alifornia  was  the  fact  that  the  Scnoritas, 
the  dear  ladies,  in  the  plenitude  of  their  lasK^  and  sympathy 
for  foreigners,  preferred  them  as  husbands.  Hence  Jose 
Ciistro  was  heard  to  declare  a  little  before  the  arrest  of  the 
Americans  and  Britons,  thiit  such  indignities  could  not  be 
borne  by  Castilian  l)lood  ;  "  for  a  Calilornian  Cavaliero  can- 
not woo  a  Scnorita  if  opposed  in  his  suit  by  an  American 
sailor,  and  these  heretics  must  be  cleared  from  the  land." 

Such  were  the  causes  operating  to  arouse  the  wrath  and 
ripen  the  patriotism  of  the  Californians.  The  vengeance 
of  baflled  gallantry  bit  at  the  ear  of  Captain  Jose  Castro  ; 
the  fear  of  being  brought  to  justice  by  Graham,  tugged  at 
the  liver  of  Alvarado  ;  and  love  the  keenest,  and  hate  the 
bitterest,  in  a  soul  the  smallest  that  was  ever  entitled  to  the 
breath  of  life,  burnished  the  little  black  eyes  and  inflamed 
the  little  thin  nose  of  one  Corporal  Pinto.  These  were  the 
\sorthies  who  projected  the  onslaught  on  the  foreigners. 
'I'heir  plan  of  operation  was  the  shrewdest  one  ever  con- 
cocted in  California. 

Since  the  '<  Revolution"  of  '36  the  Californian  Spaniards 
had  been  convinced  that  the  Americans  and  Britons  were 
vastly  their  superiors  in  courage  and  skill  in  war.  From 
the  beginning,  therefore,  it  was  apparent  that  if  they  were 
to  get  one  or  two  hundred  of  these  uien  into  their  power,  it 
must  be  done  by  stratagem.  Accordingly,  Graham's  annual 
challenge  for  the  spring  races  in  18-10,  was  conveniently  con- 


%9 


SCENES     IN      THE     P  A  t;  I  F  I  n 


Btfued  into  a  disguised  attempt  to  gather  his  friends  for  the 
purpose  of  overthrowing  Alvarado's  Government.  This  sag 
gestion  was  made  to  the  minor  leading  interests,  civil  and 
military,  and  a  Junto  was  formed  for  the  safety  of  the  State ; 
<ir  in  plain  truth,  for  the  gratification  of  the  several  personal 
enmities  and  jealousies  of  half  a  dozen  scoundrels,  who, 
disregarding  the  most  sacred  pledges  to  their  friends,  would 
rob  them  of  their  property  and  sacrifice  their  lives. 

This  Junto  marshalled  their  forces  at  Monterey,  and 
adopted  the  following  plan  for  accomplishing  their  fiendish 
designs : — The  soldiers  were  detailed  into  corps  of  two, 
three  and  four  in  number,  to  which  were  attached  several 
civilized  Indians.  These  bands  were  secretly  sent  to  the. 
abodes  of  the  foreigners,  with  instructions  to  convey  them 
with  dispatch  before  the  Alcaldes  of  the  ncghboring  mis- 
sions. This  they  accomplished.  The  tictims,  on  receiving 
information  that  the  Alcaldes  desired  to  see  them,  repaired 
to  their  presence,  willingly,  and  without  suspicion  of  evil 
intentions  against  them.  As  scon,  however,  as  they  arrived, 
they  were  i*^  ulcd  with  irons,  and  cast  into  the  loathsome 
cells  of  *aese  establishments  in  which  the  Padres  formerly 
confined  their  disobedient  converts  ! 

Thu.-,one  by  one,  they  succeeded  in  arresting  one  hundred 
and  sixty  odd  Americans  and  Britons — brave  old  trappers, 
mechanic  s,  merchants,  whalemen  and  tars — men  who, if  em- 
bodied ui  der  Graham,  with  their  rifles  in  their  hands,  coUiJ 
have  marched  from  San  Francisco  to  San  Lucas  ;  conqueree*. 
nine  hundred  miles  of  coast,  and  held  the  Government  of  the 
country  in  spite  of  the  dastards  who  were  oppressing  them. 
But  they  were  caught  in  a  net  skilfully  thrown  over  them, 
and  were  helpless.  After  each  man  was  bolted  safely  in 
his  dungeon,  the  harpies  proceeded  to  his  house,  violated 
his  family,  plundered  his  premises,  and  drove  away  his  liv« 
stock  as  private  booty — the  reward  of  the  brave  ! 

Having  in  this  manner  collected  these  unhappy  men  in 
j)e  prisons  of  the  several  missions,  Alvarado  and  Castro 


I  F  I  r. 

»r  his  friends  for  thf 
ernment.  This  sag 

interests,  civil  and 
i  safety  of  the  State ; 

the  several  personal 
in  scoundrels,  who, 
I  their  friends,  would 

their  lives. 
3  at  Monterey,  and 
lishing  their  fiendish 

into  corps  of  two, 
;re  attached  several 
secretly  sent  to  the. 
ions  to  convey  thera 
le  nc'ghboring  mis- 
victims,  on  receiving 
0  see  them,  repaired 
)ut  suspicion  of  evil 
ever,  as  they  arrived, 

into  the  louthsome 

the  Padres  formerly 


irresting  one  hundred 
—brave  old  trappers, 
ars — men  who,if  em- 
in  their  hands,  coUiJ 
an  Lucas ;  conqueree*. 
le  Governinent  of  the 
ere  oppressing  them. 
ly  thrown  over  them, 
was  bolted  safely  in 
0  his  house,  violated 
d  drove  away  his  lii'« 
'  the  brave  ! 
lese  unhappy  men  in 
Alvarado  and  Castro 


San  Francisco,  California. — P.  69. 


iparrhed 

.0  tlie  G 

The  n 

places  d1 

serve,  ar 

Those 

were,  Le 

Diiniel  S 

Kenley,  , 

Those 

Blirkin,C 

it_j  s,  Joiif 

g«r,   Will 

Richard  \ 

niiis  Bowt 

William  G 

William  S 

Those  fi 

Buriies,  F 

Chapel,  1: 

Francisco 

Robert  K 

From 
Graham 
and  Honrj 

Those 
O'Brien,  \ 
Thomas  Li 
In  A'lon 


re 


son,    An 


'ir 


Henry  Bet 
Henderson 
George  K( 
Haniel  - 
^vt•ll,  Walt 


TRAVELS     IN     T  n  F.     f  A  I,  I  F  O  R  N  I  A  ». 


(59 


19. 


-P.  69. 


iparr.bed  their  whole  disposuble  force  to  one  mission  alter 
*nuiher  r.nd  brought  thcin  in  heavy  irons,  a  few  at  u  time, 
vO  tiie  Govcrnnicnt  dungeons  at  Monterey  ! 

The  names  of  some  of  these  men,  together  with  their 
places  of  residence  in  California,  which  I  happened  to  pre- 
serve, are  given  below. 

Those  wlio  lived  near  the  mission  of  San  Francisco  Bay, 
were,  Lewis  Pollock,  John  Vermillion,  William  McGlone, 
Diiniel  Sill,  George  Frazer,  Nathaniel  Spear,  Captain  Mc- 
Kenley,  Jonathan  Fuller,  Captain  Beechay. 

Those  who  resided  at  El  Pui'bloSan  Jose,  were  William 
Blirkin, George  Fcrgusson,ThomasThomas,  William  La>:g-- 
itjs,  Joiiatlian  Mirayno,  William  W^ceks,  Jonathan  Coppm- 
gt.r,  William  Hants,  Charles  Brown,  Thomas  Toiplison, 
Richard  Westlake,  James  Peace,  Robert  McCallister,  Tho- 
mas Bowen,  Elisha  Perry,  Natiian  Daily,  Robert  Livermore, 
William  Gulenack,  Jonathan  Marsh,  Peter  Storm,  Job  Dye, 
William  Smith,  Jonathan  VVarner,  and  two  Frenchmen. 

Those  from  Santa  Cru/,  were,  William  Thompson,  James 
Burnes,  F.  Eagle,  Henry  Knight,  Jonathan  Lucas,  George 
Chapel,  Henry  Cooper,  Jonathan  Herven,  James  Lowyado, 
Francisco,  LuGrace,  Michael  Lodge,  Josiah  Whitehouse, 
Robert  King. 

From  Nativada,  Graham's  neighborhood,  were,  Isaac 
Graham,  Daniel  GofT,  William  Burton,  Jonathan  Smith, 
and  Henry  Niel. 

Those  residents  at  Selenias,  were,  W^illiam  Chard,  James 
O'Brien,  William  Bronda,  William  Malthas,  Thomas  Cole, 
Thomas  Lewis,  William  Ware,  and  James  Majniis. 

In  Monterey,  were,  Leonard  Carmichael,  Edward  Wat- 
son, Andrew  Watson,  Henry  McVicker,  H.  Hathaway, 
Henry  Bee,  William  Trevavan,  Jonathan  May nard,  William 
Henderson,  James  Meadows,  Jonathan  Higgins,  Mark  West, 
George  Kenlock,  Jcremiali  Jones,  Jonathan  Chamberlainj 
Daniel ,  Joseph  Bowles,  James  Kelley,  James  Fair- 
well,  W^alter  Adams,  Mr.  Horton,  Jnmes  Atterville,  Mr. 


70 


SCENES    IN     THE     PACIPtC 


Jones,  Jonathan  Christian,  William  Chay,  William  Dickey, 
Charles  Williams,  Alvan  Willson. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE    PRIS0NRE8. 


Forty-one  of  the  prisoners  whose  names  appear  on  the 
concluding  pages  of  the  last  Chapter,  furnished  me  with 
written  accounts  of  their  arrest,  and  subsequent  treatment. 
Believing  that  the  reader  will  be  more  interested  in  these, 
than  in  any  abstract  that  could  be  made  of  them,  I  will  trans- 
cribe a  few  which  best  illustrate  this  barbarous  persecution. 

"  I,  Isaac  Graham,  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  of  Ame- 
rica, came  across  the  continent  to  California,  with  a  pass- 
port from  the  Mexican  authorities  of  Chihuahua,  and  ob- 
tained from  the  General  commanding  in  Upper  California, 
a  license  to  run  a  distillery  in  that  country,  for  the  term  of 
eight  years  ;  this  business  I  have  followed  since  that  time. 

"  On  the  sixth  of  April  last  (1840)  there  appeared  to  be 
mischief  brewing.  But  what  it  would  prove  to  be,  none  of 
us  could  tell.  The  Californian  Spaniards  travelled  ijsually 
much  about  the  country  ;  and  conversed  with  the  foreigners 
rather  shyly.  Thoy  had  threatened  to  drive  us  out  of  Califor- 
nia several  times  ;  and  we  tried  to  guess  whether  they  were 
at  last  preparing  to  accomplish  it.  But  from  what  we  saw 
it  was  impossible  to  form  a  satisfactory  conclusion. 

"  v^n  the  same  day,  however,  Jose  Castro,  Bicenta  Con- 
trine,  Ankel  Castro,  and  a  runaway  Botany  Bay  English  con- 
vict, by  the  name  of  Garner,  a  vile  fellow,  and  an  enemy  ol 
mine,  because  the  foreigners  would  not  elect  him  their  cap- 
tain, passed  and  repassed  my  house  several  times,  andcon< 


versed 
tro^  an 

was  g( 
Viego, 
of  the  f 
I  knev 
Castro 
partly  ( 
"Al 
called  c 
came  ra 
of  sonu 
ceived  c 
Californ 
ed  that 
the  busi 
or  in  wl 
same  thr 
it  resulte 
words  |)i 
the  truti 
partner, 
ton,  as  t 
"We 
mg,  wht 
my  heac 
about  m 
direction 
pistols,  s 
Fortunat 
ards  pre\ 
shots  too 
"  Af((" 
reloading 
tols  that 
with,  and 


I  c 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALITORNIAS. 


71 


William  Dick*;, 


les  appear  on  the 
urnished  me  with 
equent  treatment, 
nterested  in  these, 
them,  I  will  trans- 
»arous  persecution, 
ted  States  of  Ame- 
jrnia,  with  a  pass- 
hihuahua,  and  ob- 
Upper  California, 
ry,  for  the  term  of 
ed  since  that  time, 
ere  appeared  to  be 
•ove  to  be,  none  of 
Is  travelled  usually 
with  the  foreigners 
veusout  of  Califor- 
whether  they  were 
from  what  we  saw 
conclusion, 
istro,  Bicenta  Con- 
ly  Bay  English  con- 
w,  and  an  enemy  ol 
elect  him  their  cap- 
sral  times,  and  con- 


versed together  in  low  tones  of  voice.  I  stopped  Jose  Cas- 
tro, and  asked  him  what  was  the  matter.  He  replied  that  he 
was  going  to  march  against  the  Commandante  General 
Viego,  at  San  Francisco,  to  depose  him  from  the  command 
of  the  forces.  His  two  companions  made  tiie  same  assertion. 
1  knew  that  Alvarado  was  afraid  of  Viego,  and  that  Jose 
Castro  was  ambitious  for  his  place ;  and  for  these  reasons,  I 
partly  concluded  that  they  spoke  the  truth. 

"  A  little  later  in  the  day,  however,  the  vagabond  Garner 
called  at  my  house,  and  having  drunk  freely  of  whisky  be- 
came rather  boisterous,  and  said  significantly,  that  the  time 
of  some  people  would  be  short;  that  Jose  Castro  had  re- 
ceived orders  from  the  governor  to  drive  the  foreigners  out  of 
California,  ortodispose  of  them  in  some  other  way.  He  boast- 
ed that  he  himself  should  have  a  pleasant  participation  in 
the  business.  I  could  not  persuade  him  to  inform  me  when 
or  in  what  manner  this  was  to  take  place.  I  had  heard  the 
same  threat  made  a  number  of  times  within  the  past  year,  but 
it  resulted  in  nothing.  Believing,  therefore,  that  Garner's 
words  proceeded  from  the  whisky  he  had  dmnk,  rather  than 
the  truth,  I  left  him  in  the  yard,  and  in  c-mpany  with  my 
partner,  Mr.  Niel,  went  to  bed.  Messrs.  Morris  and  Bar- 
ton, as  usual,  took  to  their  couches  in  the  still-houM'. 

"  We  slept  quietly,  until  about  three  o'clock  in  tjie  morn- 
ing, when  I  was  awakened  by  the  discharge  of  a  pistol  near 
my  head,  the  ball  of  which  passed  through  the  handkerchief 
about  my  neck.  I  sprang  to  my  feet,  and  jumped  in  the 
direction  of  the  villains,  when  they  discharged  six  other 
pistols,  so  near  me  that  my  shirt  took  fire  in  several  places. 
Fortunately,  the  diukness  and  the  trepidation  of  the  cow- 
ards prevented  their  taking  good  aim  ;  for  only  one  of  their 
shots  took  effect,  and  that  in  my  left  arm. 

'^  After  firing  they  fell  back  a  few  paces  and  commenced 
reloading  ttieir  pieces,  I  perceive  by  the  light  of  their  pis- 
tols that  they  were  too  numerous  for  a  single  man  to  contend 
with,  and  deteunined  to  escape.     But  I  had  scarcely  got  six 


72 


BCENKS     IN     THK     PACIFIC, 


paces  from  the  door  wlien  I  was  overtaken  and  assailed  with 
heavy  blows  from  their  swords.  These  I  succeeded  in  parry- 
ing oir  to  such  un  extent  that  I  was  not  nmch  injured  by 
thein.     Being  incensed  at  last  by  my  successful  resistance, 
they  grappled  with  me,  and  threw  me  down,  when  an  ensign 
by  the  name  of  Joaquin  Torres  drew  his  (hrk,  and  saying 
with  an  oath  that  he  would  let  out  my  life,  made  a  thrust  at 
my  heart.     God  saved  me  again.     The  weapon  passing  be- 
tween my  body  and  left  arm,  sunk  deep  in  the  ground  !  and 
before  he  had  an  opportunity  of  repeating  his  blow  they 
dragged  me  up  the  hill  in  the  rear  of  my  house,  where  Jose 
Castro  was  standing.     They  called  to  h^m,  '  Here  he  is! 
here  he  is !'  whereupon  Castro  rode  up  and  struck  me  with 
the  back  of  his  sword  over  the  head  so  severely  as  to  bring 
me  to  the  ground  ;  and  then  ordered  four  balls  to  be  put 
through  me.     But  this  was  prevented  by  a  faithful  Indian 
in  my  service,  who  threw  himself  on  me,  declaring  that  he 
would  receive  the  balls  in  his  own  heart  I 

"Unwilling to  be  thwarted, however,  in  their  design  to  de- 
stroy me,  they  next  fastened  a  rope  to  one  of  my  arms,  and 
passed  it  to  a  man  on  horseback,  who  wound  it  firmly  around 
the  horn  of  his  saddle.  Then  the  rest  of  them,  taking  hold  of 
the  other  arm,  endeavored  to  haul  myshovdders  out  of  joint ! 
But  the  rope  broke.  Thinking  the  scoundrels  bent  on  killing 
me  in  some  way,  I  beg^red  for  liberty  to  commend  my  soul  to 
God.     To  this  they  replied,  '  You  shall  never  pray  till  you 
kneel  over  your  grave.'     They  then  conducted  me  to  my 
house  and  permitted  me  to  put  on  my  pantaloons.     While 
there  they  asked  where  Mr.  Morris  was.     I  told  them  I  did 
not  know.  They  then  put  their  lances  to  my  breast  and  told 
me  to  call  him  or  die.    I  answered  that  he  had  made  his  es- 
cape. While  I  was  saying  this,  Mr.  Niel  came  to  the  house, 
pale  from  loss  of  blood  and  vomiting  terribly.  He  had  had  a 
lance  thrust  through  his  thigh,  and  a  deep  wound  in  his 
leg,  which  nearly  separated  the  cord  of  the  heel. 

"They  next  put  Mr.  Niel  and  myself  in  double  irons,  car- 


F  I  C, 

1  and  assailed  with 
ucceeded  in i)iiny- 
L  imicli  injured  by 
xesslul  resistance, 
m,  when  an  ensign 
i  dirk,  and  sajing 
fe,niade  a  thrust  at 
.veapon  passing  be- 
in  the  ground !  and 
ting  his  blow  they 
house,  where  Jose 
h-m,  '  Here  he  is  ! 
ind  struck  me  with 
severely  as  to  bring 
3ur  balls  to  be  put 
)y  a  faithful  Indian 
e,  declaring  that  he 
t! 

in  their  design  to  de- 
me  of  my  arms,  and 
lund  it  firmly  around 
them,  taking  hold  of 
Didders  out  of  joint ! 
idrelsbenton  killing 
:ommend  my  soul  to 
I  never  pray  till  you 
;onducted  me  to  my 
pantaloons.     While 
.     I  told  them  I  did 
to  my  breast  and  told 
it  he  had  made  his  es- 
iel  came  to  the  house, 
rrihly.  He  had  had  a 
I  deep  wound  in  his 
if  the  heel, 
f  in  double  irons,  car- 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     C  A  I,  t  K  O  i;  N      A  9. 


73 


ried  us  half  a  mile  into  the  plain,  left  us  under  guard,  and 
returned  to  plunder  the  house.  After  having  been  absent 
&  short  time,  they  came  and  conducted  us  back  to  our 
rifled  home.  As  soon  as  we  arrived  there,  a  man  by  the 
name  of  Manuel  Larias  approached  me  with  a  drawn  sword, 
ind  commanded  me  to  inform  him  where  my  money  was 
buried.  I  told  him  I  had  none.  He  cursed  me  and  turn- 
ed away.  I  had  some  deposited  in  the  ground,  but  I  de- 
termined they  should  never  enjoy  it.  After  having  robbed 
me  of  my  books  and  papers,  which  were  all  the  evidence  I 
liad  that  these  very  scoundrels  and  others  were  largely  in- 
debted to  me,  and  having  taken  whatever  was  valuable  on 
my  premises,  and  distributed  it  among  themselves,  they 
proceeded  to  take  an  inventory  of  what  was  left,  as  if  it 
were  the  whole  of  my  property  ;  and  then  put  me  on 
horseback  and  sent  me  to  this  prison.  You  know  the  rest. 
I  am  chained  like  a  dog,  and  suffer  like  one." 

Mr.  Albert  F.  Morris,  whose  name  appears  in  Graham's 
account  of  his  arrest,  gives  me  some  farther  particulars.  It 
may  be  well  here  to  say,  that  this  Morris  was  a  British  subject, 
a  descendant  of  the  former  Surveyor-General  of  Nova  Scotia 
or  New  Brunswick.  Having  strayed  from  friends  and  home, 
he  found  himself  in  California  destitute  of  tlu,'  means  of  liveli- 
hood. In  this  state  of  want  he  hired  himself  to  Graham  as 
a  laborer  in  his  distillery  ;  and  was  living  on  his  pr(vmises 
in  that  capacity  at  the  time  of  the  events  just  related. 

*'  On  the  night  of  the  sixth  of  April,  1840,  when  we  were 
about  going  to  bed,  two  persons  arrived  who  asked  for 
lodgings.  Mr.  Graham  told  them  they  might  find  quarters 
with  us  in  the  distillery.  They  dismounted  and  took  bed 
with  me  and  Mr.  Barton ;  and  Messrs.  Graham  and  his 
partner  Neil  took  their  bed  in  the  house,  about  thirty 
yards  distant  from  us. 

"  Nothing  occurred  to  disturb  us  until  about  three  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  when, being  awakened  by  aloud  knocking  at 
the  distillery  door,  I  sprang  out  of  my  bed,  and  asked  who 


74 


flCBNEB    IN    "HE    PACIPIC. 


was  there  ?  No  answer  being  returned,  I  repeated  the  ques- 
tion in  a  stern  voice,  when  a  man  outside  replied, '  Nicholas 
Alviso.'  He  being  a  near  neighbor  I  answered,  *  very  well,' 
and  told  one  of  those  present  to  light  a  candle,  fiut  while 
this  was  being  done,  a  number  of  people  outside  called  out, 
'  Where  is  Graham  ?  Tear  the  devil  in  pieces !'  and  imme- 
diately afterward  rushed  with  great  violence  against  the  door. 
I  told  them  to  wait  a  moment,  but  they  cried  out  with  still 
greater  clamor  for  Graham,  and  seemed  to  rush  toward  the 
house  where  he  slept.  Quite  a  number,  however,  remained 
at  the  distillery,  beating  at  the  door  in  a  savage  manner  and 
threatening  death  to  the  inmates.  I  drew  my  pistols,  and  at 
that  instant  Nicholas  Alviso  called  aloud  for  all  hands  to  beat 
down  the  door.  On  they  came  against  it;  I  fired;  and  they 
returned  the  fire  and  wounded  me  in  the  left  side.  I  then 
seized  my  rifle  and  snapped  it  at  them ;  they  retreated,  and 
I  escaped  into  the  swamp  in  the  rear  of  Graham's  hcusc. 
After  concealing  myself  among  the  bushes,  I  saw  fifteen 
or  twenty  men  with  drawn  swords  making  most  deadly  blows 
at  Messrs.  Graham  and  Neil.  I  heard  Ankel  Castro  give 
orders  to  hew  them  down ;  Garner  urged  them  to  do  the  same. 

'*  I  remained  in  the  swamp  till  late  the  next  night,  when 
I  walked  eight  miles  to  the  farm  of  Mr.  Littlejohn,  where 
I  remained  two  days.  Then,  with  an  Indian  to  guide  me, 
I  rode  to  the  mission  of  Santa  Cruz  on  the  north  side  of 
Monterey  Bay.  Here  I  called  at  the  houses  of  Messrs.  Dye 
and  Young  ;  told  them  what  had  hoppened,  and  went  up 
among  the  hills  for  safety. 

"  On  the  sixteenth,  Francisco  Young  came  to  me  and  said, 
that  Captain  Burlinen  had  come  after  me  with  a  company  of 
riflemen.  He  assured  me  that  I  should  not  be  put  to  death  or 
manacled  if  I  surrendered  myself  without  resistance.  I  con- 
cluded after  some  hesitation  to  do  so,  and  followed  him  down 
to  Mr.  Dye's  distillery.  There  I  found  Captain  Burlinen,  with 
eleven  Californians,  armed  with  the  rifles  which  they  bad 
taken  from  the  Britons  and  Americans.     After  obtaining  a 


IC. 

ppeated  the  qnei- 

eplied, '  Nicholas 

ered,  *  very  well,' 

ndle.     But  while 

utside  called  out, 

eces !'  and  irame- 

against  the  door. 

ried  out  with  still 

[>  rush  toward  the 

owever,  remained 

ivage  manner  and 

my  pistols,  and  at 

jrall  hands  to  beat 

I  fired ;  and  they 

left  side.     I  then 

;hey  retreated,  and 

Graham's  hcusc. 

shes,  I  saw  fifteen 

most  deadly  blows 

Ankel  Castro  give 

hem  to  do  the  same. 

e  next  night,  when 

.  Littlejohn,  where 

ndian  to  guide  me, 

1  the  north  side  of 

ises  of  Messrs.  Dye 

3ned,  and  went  up 

ame  to  me  and  said, 
!  with  a  company  of 
3t  be  put  to  death  or 
resistance.  I  con- 
followed  him  down 
ptain  BuTlinen,  with 
les  which  they  had 
After  obtaining  a 


TRATELB     IN     THE    C  A  L  (  V 0 R N 1  A »  . 


79 


promise  from  the  captain  that  my  life  should  not  be  taken 
and  that  I  should  not  be  pat  in  irons  or  otherwise  bound,  I 
delivered  my  rifle  to  him  and  became  his  prisoner.  I  was 
then  marched  down  to  the  Mission  of  Santa  Cruz  between 
the  soldiers,  and  put  under  guard  until  the  next  morning. 

"  Soon  after  sunrise  on  the  seventeenth  they  began  pre- 
parations for  taking  me  to  Monterey.  I  had,  when  escap- 
ing from  Graham's  premises,  left  most  of  my  clothing,  and 
not  knowing  in  what  this  affair  might  end,  I  desired  the 
captain  to  take  me  by  that  route.  To  this  he  consented. 
But  it  was  of  no  service  to  me ;  for  I  found  both  my  port- 
manteaus broken  open  and  all  my  clothing  stolen.  Mr.  Niel 
was  in  the  house.  He  hud  been  badly  wounded  in  the  af- 
fray of  the  sixth.  A  lance  li.  d  been  thrust  through  his 
thigh,  and  a  deep  sabre  cut  inflicted  upon  the  leg.  He  told 
me  that  the  Botany  Bay  Garner  did  it.  I  saw  several 
balls  sticking  in  the  walls  of  the  bedroom  in  which  Mr.  Niel 
lay.  The  lloor  was  much  stained  with  blood.  The  pre- 
mises had  been  plundered.  We  stayed  at  Graham's  house 
an  hour,  and  proceeded  towards  Monterey. 

"I  arrived  in  town  the  next  day.  It  was  occupied  by  sol- 
diers, and  the  prisons  filled  with  foreigners.  They  immedi- 
ately put  me  in  double-irons,  and  carried  me  before  a  body  of 
men  who  pretended  to  act  as  a  court  of  justice.  I  desired 
that  Mr.  Spence,  the  alcalde,  might  be  sent  for  as  an  inter- 
preter. But  they  would  not  allow  it.  They  said  I  must  be 
content  with  the  one  they  had  provided.  His  name  was 
Nariago.  He  was  by  no  means  capable  of  the  task.  But  I 
was  compelled  to  take  him  or  none,  and  go  into  the  exami- 
nation. I  was  sworn  ;  and  then  the  interpreter  said  it  was 
well  known  that  I  had  been  writing  letters  against  the  gov- 
ernment. I  asked  him  to  produce  the  letters,  that  I  might 
see  them.  He  replied, '  that  it  is  not  necessary.'  He  then 
said  that  Mr.  Graham  was  at  the  head  of  an  attempted  revo- 
lutionary movement  against  the  government,  and  that  I 
knew  something  about  it.     I  replied  that  I  had  never  heard 


76 


SCENES    IN     THE     PACIFIC 


Mr.  Graham  suggest  anything  of  the  kind.  I  said  that  he 
had  expressed  a  determination  to  represent  to  the  governor 
the  shameful  treatment  of  Mr.  Hifrgins;  and  the  outrage 
upon  the  foreigners  while  they  were  hiirj  ing  their  duntry- 
nien  at  Santa  Barbara ;  and  particularly  the  monstrous  deed 
of  digging  him  up  after  burial,  and  leaving  his  corpse  naked 
above  ground.  I  confessed  I  had  offered  to  go  with  him  to 
the  governor  for  that  purpose. 

"The  interpreter  then  asked  why  I  fired  on  the  people  at 
Graham's  distillery.  I  answered  that  I  did  it  in  self  defence. 
He  inquired  how  that  couhl  be.  I  told  him,  as  it  was  impos- 
sible for  me  in  the  night  time  to  see  those  who  made  the  as- 
sault on  the  distillery,  I  could  not  know  whether  they  were 
the  authorized  agents  of  the  government,  or  robbers  whom  it 
was  my  duty  to  resist.  My  life  was  at  stake,  and  I  fought 
for  it,  as  they  would  have  done  under  like  circumstunces.  It 
was  next  asked  why  I  did  not  seek  redress  from  the  govern- 
ment, if  I  supposed  them  robbers.  I  said  that  I  had  no  time 
to  do  so  between  their  attempts  to  kill  me  and  my  own  neces- 
sary acts  to  prevent  them  ;  and  that  if  I  had  hud  opportunity 
I  had  no  assurance,  under  the  circumstances,  that  govern- 
ment would  protect  me.  This  last  answer  was  translated  with 
some  embellishments;  and  the  interpreterinformed  me  it  was 
considered  highly  insulting  to  the  governor.  I  answered  that 
no  insult  was  intended,  but  that  I  was  under  oath,  and  could 
not  vary  from  the  truth.  I  was  then  asked  why  I  fled  to 
Santa  Cruz.  My  reply  was  that  I  had  lost  all  confidence  in 
the  justice  of  the  government,  and  flew  to  the  wilderness 
for  protection.  At  this  the  alcalde  was  greatly  incensed,  or- 
dered my  answers  to  be  reduced  to  writing,  and  commanded 
me  to  affix  my  name  to  them,  together  with  the  additions 
which  their  desire  for  an  excuse  to  destroy  me  induced  (hem 
to  append.  I  stated  that  I  did  not  suppose  myself  obliged 
to  place  my  signature  to  an  instrument  written  in  a  lan- 
guage which  I  could  not  read.  I  signed  it  with  swords 
over  my  head.     Wha^  the  paper  contained  I  never  knew. 


I  said  that  he 
)  the  governor 
ul  the  outrage 
their  cuntry- 
nonstrous  deed 
s  corpse  naked 
go  with  him  to 

n  the  people  at 
in  self- defence. 
IS  it  was  inipos- 
lio  made  the  as- 
lither  they  were 
robbers  whom  it 
;e,  and  I  fought 
cumstuiices.    It 
rom  the  govern- 
at  I  had  no  time 
i  my  own  neces- 
had  opportunity 
es,  that  govern- 
s  translated  with 
formed  me  it  was 
I  answered  that 
r  oath,  and  could 
;cl  why  I  fled  to 
all  confidence  in 
,0  the  wilderness 
itly  incensed,  or- 
,  and  commanded 
,'ith  the  additions 
me  induced  thera 
se  myself  obliged 
written  in  a  lan- 
d  it  with  swords 
d  I  never  knew. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


V 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIF0RN1A8 


77 


They  would  not  allow  me  to  attempt  to  read  it.  The  ex- 
amination being  ended,  they  took  me  to  the  fort  and  placed 
me  under  a  strong  guard  for  the  night.  The  next  day,  the 
nineteenth  of  April,  they  manhed  me  under  escort  of  a 
company  of  infantry  into  the  public  green,  before  the  gov- 
ernment house,  to  hear  prayers.  After  which,  I  have  no 
doubt,  they  intended  to  shoot  me,  but  were  prevented  from 

doing  it  through  the  fear  of  Mr. ." 

I  have  other  interesting  narratives  showing  the  most  in- 
human conduct  in  the  Governor  of  Upper  California,  while 
urresting  these  Americans  and  Britons,  which  I  must  pass  for 
want  of  space.  There  is  one,  however,  that  refers  more 
especially  to  the  causes  which  brought  many  of  them  into  a 
country  where  they  were  subject  to  such  merciless  usage, 
tliat  I  cannot  prevail  on  myself  to  omit.  It  is  a  saying  among 
seamen  that  when  a  ship  doubles  Cape  Horn  "  the  rope's  end 
and  shackles  are  the  Old  Man's  argument."  Sailors  in 
those  seas  are  often  glad  even  to  escape  from  a  bloody  deck 
to  the  chances  of  dungeons  and  rapiers  in  the  Californias. 

«  I  left  the  American  ship  Hope,  of  Philadelphia,  in  Ma- 
nilla, and  there  being  no  chance  of  getting  a  passage  to  the 
United  States  from  that  place,  I  went  passenger  to  Macao,  in 
the  ship  Rasselas,  of  Boston,  commanded  by  Captain  •*••••. 
O  1  my  arrival  there,  all  his  crew  having  left  him,  Captain 
«*«»«*  ^sked  me  to  ship  on  board  his  vessel  for  a  voyage.     I 
and  some  others  agreed  to  do  so  on  these  conditions :  that  if 
after  serving  one  month,  while  the  ship  lay  in  that  port,  we 
did  not  like  it,  we  were  to  be  at  liberty  to  leave  her.    When 
the  month  was  up  we  all  requested  to  go  on  shore.     But  he 
said  all  might  go  except  William  W^arren,  Robert  MtAlister, 
and  myself.     We  were  accordingly  detained  on  board.     No 
boat  from  the  shore  was  allowed  to  come  alongsiiJefor  fear  we 
should  escape.    After  a  short  time  the  ship  proceeded  on  her 
voyage  to  Kamschatka.     And  in  this  way  were  wc  forced  to 
go  without  signing-  articles,  and  contrary  to  our  agreeraenU 


7R 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


One  day  when  my  watch  was  at  work  on  deck  the  captain 
came  along  and  said  I  was  not  sewii>g  the  sail  right ;  ard  I 
said  I  thougiit  I  was;  wlien  lie  kicked  me  over  the  eye  with  a 
large  heavy  shoe  he  had  on  at  the  time.  And  when  the  pain 
made  me  start  to  n»y  feet,  with  the  blood  running  down  my 
face,  he  said  that  I  wanted  to  kill  iiim  with  a  knife,  and  im- 
mediately had  me  put  (hands  and  feet)  in  irons,  I  remained 
so  for  half  an  hour;  when  the  captain,  ordering  me  to  be  tied 
lip  to  the  main-rigging,  and  taking  his  knife  from  his  pocket, 
cut  the  shirt  off  my  back,  and  gave  mc  two  dozen  lashes  with 
his  own  hand.  Afier  this  1  was  taktMi  down  and  thrown  in 
the  longboat  among  the  hogs,  and  fed  on  bread  and  water  for 
a  fortnight.  In  this  situation  I  sulfered  very  much.  Fori 
was  ironed  hand  and  foot,  the  weather  was  extremely  cold, 
and  I  was  without  shirt, shoes  and  stockings.  At  the  end  ol 
the  two  weeks  the  ship  arrived  in  port,  and  I  was  taken  out 
of  the  longboat.  My  feet,  too,  were  stripped  of  their  fetters  ; 
they  were  swelled  so  much  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I  could 
walk.  I  was  kept  manacled  at  the  wrists  till  the  ship  had 
got  underway  out  of  the  harbor.  After  she  had  passed  the 
fort  the  captain  ordered  a  boat  lowered  and  sent  me  ashore  on 
a  barren  piiice,  where  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  go  to  the 
settlement  without  a  boat,  and  left  me  with  the  irons  on  my 
h;inds.  In  this  situation  I  spent  two  days  and  nights  on  the 
beach  without  food  or  water,  when  I  was  picked  up  by  a  man 
who  gave  me  a  passage  in  a  canoe  to  the  settlement.  Here  1 
held  to  work  hard  for  my  victuals.  After  nine  months  the 
schooner  Clementine,  of  New  York,  arrived,  and  I  asked 

Captain to  take  me  out  of  the  country,  but  he  refused. 

I  then  went  to  Oholsk,  thinking  to  go  overland  to  St.  Peters- 
burg ;  finding  a  vessel  there  from  the  States,  however,  I 
wanted  to  ship  in  her,  but  was  detained  by  the  Russian 
government,  and  forced  to  work  for  the  Russian  American 
Fur  Company  the  two  following  years.  After  having  been 
forced  to  bear  the  rigors  of  two  Siberian  winters,  without 
much  ciothing,  and  to  serve  as  a  slave  for  two  and  a  half  years. 


T 


c. 


deck  tlie  captain 
sail  right ;  ard  I 
ver  the  eye  with  a 
ind  \vl>en  the  pain 
running  down  my 
ha  knife,  and  im- 
irons.    I  remained 
(jring  me  to  be  tied 
fe  from  his  pocket, 
)  dozen  lashes  with 
)\vn  and  thrown  in 
bread  and  water  for 
very  much.     For  I 
,'as  extremely  cold, 
:ings.    At  the  end  oi 
find  I  was  taken  out 
iped of  their  fetters; 
ith  diificulty  I  could 
ists  till  the  ship  had 
r  she  had  passed  the 
nd  sent  me  ashore  on 
e  for  me  to  go  to  the 
with  the  irons  on  my 
iys  and  nights  on  the 
ts  picked  up  by  a  man 
e  settlement.     Here  1 
fter  nine  months  the 
arrived,  and  I  asked 
lunivy,  but  he  refused. 
)verland  to  St.  Peters- 
le  States,  however,  1 
ained  by  the  Russian 
the  Russian  American 
rs.     After  having  been 
erian  winters,  without 
or  two  and  a  half  years, 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     C  A  I-  I  F  O  R  W  I  A  S 

I  got  a  passage  to  Sitka,  Northwest  America,  where,  afttif 
five  months'  working  for  the  Russians,  I  was  permitted  to  go 
away  in  the  brig  Baicalund  was  disciiarged  in  San  Francisco. 

"  John  Warneu,  of  Scotland." 

The  next  event  in  this  poor  fellow's  life  was  his  impri- 
sonment in  California.  His  sufferings  there  were  scarcely 
less  than  those  he  had  endured  elsewhere.  The  names  of 
his  companions  at  Macao  appear  in  the  list  of  prisoners 
which  was  given  in  the  previous  chapter. 

The  19th  was  an  exciting  day.     More  of  my  countrymen 
and  others,  allied  by  the  blood  of  a  common  ancestry,  were 
arriving  from  the  interior  in  irons.     As  soon  as  they  came  in 
town  they  were  taken  in  front   of  the  prisons,  pulled  vio- 
1  ntly  from   their  horses  by  Indians,  and  frequently  much 
bruised  by  the  fall.     Their  tormentors  then  searched  them, 
took  forcible  possession  of  their  money,  knives,  flints,  steels, 
and   every  other  little   v;duable  about  their  persons,  and 
thrust  them  into  prison.     About  eleven  o'clock,  A.  M.,  '.!ie 
American  called  on  the  governor  to  learn  the  cause  of  this 
treatment,  and  was  informed  that  there  had  been  considera- 
ble conversation  among  the  prisoners  for  months  past,  about 
"  being  abused  by  the  government,"  and  that  threats  had 
been  made  about  "  going  to  the  governor  for  justice,"  and 
other  things  of  that  kind,  which  rendered  ti  necessary  for  the 
peace  of  the  country  to  get  them  out  of  it,  or  into  their  graves. 
The  American  replied,  that  the  treaty  stipulations  between 
the  governmrnts  of  the  United  States  and  Mexico  required 
the  authorities  of  each  country  to  treat  the  citizens  of  the 
other  with  kindness  and  justice. 

His  Excellentissimo  replied,  that  the  government  of  the 
Californias  would  not  be  restrained  in  its  action  by  treaties 
which  the  central  government  might  make ;  and  that  if  the 
department  of  the  Californias  should  violate  such  compact 
with  the  United  States,  that  government  would  seek  redress 
from  Mexico ;  that  the  Californian  government  was  the  mire 


J- 


f^Q  BCENESINTHEPACiriC. 

vifrent  of  the  Ceptral  government,  and  therefore  not  resp« 
sible  to  other  nations  for  its  administration.     The  Mexican 
government  alone  had  a  right  to  complain  of  its  acts. 

The  American  replied,  that  the  department  of  the  Califor  - 
nias  being  an  integral  part  of  the  Mexican  nation,  any  mju- 
ry  whichits  authorities  shouldinflict  on  the  persons  and  rights 
of  other  nations  might  well  be  redressed  on  the  persons  and 
property  of  the  Californias.  The  Governor  answered,  that 
he  thought  not.  He  was  then  asked,  what  he  ^»V?°f^^ 
American  or  British  fleet  would  do,  if  one  should  at  that 
timeanchor  at  Monterey  f 

This  question  startled  the  miserable  tyrant.  That  spectral 
fleet  outside,  its  reputed  commander  in  his  very  presence,  and 
the  constant  plying  of  the  Don  Quixote  between  him  and  his 
armament,  seemed  for  a  moment  to  come  before  him,  like  a 
fearful  reality.     Perceiving  the  impression  made  upon  him, 
theAmericantook  advantage  of  the  occasion 'o  remark,  that 
it  would  be  necessary  for  the  Californian  government  to 
brine  the  persons  then  in  confinement  to  a  speedy  tria.  tor 
any  alleged  misdemeanor,  or  set  them  at  liberty  without  trial, 
at  a  very  early  dav  ,  for  the  American  government  and  its 
citizens  required  him,  and  would,  if  necessary,  compel  him, 
in  this  instance  at  least,  to  do  an  act  of  strict  justice. 

The  qmet  and  firm  tone  of  this  address  threw  his  Exce  - 
lentissimo  into  a  most  sublime  rage.    He  ordered  the  guards 
to  fire  on  the  American,  and  strode  through  his  apartment, 
bellowing  fearfully,  and  raising  a  very  dense  cloud  of  dust 
The  American,  meanwhile,  knowing  that  Cahfornian  noise 
boded  little  danger,  stood  quietly  awaiting  the  termination 
of  the  tumult.     It  ceased  after  a  while,  and  mildly  saying 
to  the  governor,  that  he  had  only  to  repeat,  that  the  pris- 
onersmustbe  tried  and  lawfully  condemned  or  set  at  liberty, 
and  that  soon,  he  walked  through  the  guards  and  returned 
to  his  lodgings.     He  had  not  been  at  hone  more  than  an 
hour  when  a  mescage  arrived  from  Don  Jose  Cas  ro,  Alva- 
cado^s  captain  advising  him  not  to  appear  in  the  stre-t. 


1 


TRAVELS     I  II     THE     CALIFORNIA  S. 


81 


:fore  not  resp« 
,     The  Mexican 
of  its  acts, 
ntof  theCalifor- 
nation,  any  inju- 
lersons  and  rights 
n  the  persons  and 
or  answered,  that 
at  he  supposed  an 
,e  should  at  that 

int.  That  spectral 
?ery  presence,  and 
tween  him  and  his 
before  him,  like  a 
n  made  upon  him, 
ion  '0  remark,  that 
iin  government  to 
)  a  speedy  tria.  for 
berty  without  trial, 
rovernment  and  its 
jssary,  compel  him, 
strict  justice. 
ss  threw  his  Excel- 
ordered  the  guards 
ugh  his  apartment, 
ense  cloud  of  dust ! 
lat  Californian  noise 
ing  the  termination 
!,  and  mildly  saying 
jpeat,  that  the  pris- 
ined  or  set  at  liberty, 
guards  and  returned 
hone  more  than  an 
in  Jose  Castro,  Alva- 
ippear  in  the  street* 


neain,  for  he  feared  that  his  life  would  be  taken  by  the  sub 
etterns  of  the  insulted  government ! ! 

I'his  message  was  intended  to  prevent  him  from  appear- 
ing before  the  grates,  and  encouraging  tlie  prisoners  to  bear 
their  sufferings  like  men  worthy  their  high  extraction ;  and 
also  to  deter  him  from  interfering  with  the  unholy  purposes 
of  the  Government  against  their  lives.    It  failed  of  its  object. 
His  reply  was,  that  he  did  not  at  that  time  comprehend  the 
necessity  ot  Captain  Castro's  anxieties  in  regard  to  him,  and 
taut  as  he  should  have  business  in  the  streets  about  sunset, 
those  who  felt  disposed  would  have  an  opportunity  at  that 
time  to  make  any  demonstrations  congenial  with  their  feel- 
ings.    At  sunset  he  walked  down  to  the  prisons,  heard 
again  through  the  grates  the  cries  of  their  tenants  for  air  and 
water,  and  returned  to  Mr.  Larkin's,  to    pass  a  miserable 
night— a  night  of  unavailing  compassion. 

The  next  day  he  went  into  two  of  the  cells,  took  the 
names  and  residence  of  a  portion  of  the  prisoners,  and  learn- 
ed their  general  condition.  They  had  nothing  on  which  to 
sleep  or  sit  except  the  wet  ground ;  were  emaciated,  pale 
and  sickly ;  some  of  them  could  scarcely  walk  to  the  grate 
to  get  fresh  air ;  one  could  not  stand,  and  his  fellows  from 
time  to  time  held  him  up  to  breathe  !  They  said  in  their 
despair,  that  they  could  keep  hope  alive  as  long  as  he 
dared  to  walk  frequently  before  the  prison,  for  his  presence 
obtained  them  better  treatment  from  their  enemies,  and 
encouraged  the  more  desponding  to  expect  through  him 
deliverance  from  their  sufferings ! 

Graham's  cell  was  under  a  double  guard.  It  could  not  be 
approached.  People  were  even  forbidden  to  pass  it.  I  oc- 
casionally approached  near  enough  to  hear  the  lion-hearted 
old  man  roar  out  his  indignation.  A  great  and  brave  sou? 
had  that  man.  Its  best  energies  had  been  bestowed  on  the 
mgrate  Alvarado.  He  had  made  the  rascal  into  a  gover- 
nor ;  and  this  was  the  beginning  of  his  reward. 

The  afternoor  was  spent  in  much  perplexity  by  the  officers 


82 


SCENES     IN     THE     PAC      FIC. 


of  Jhe government.  Theybelievod  the  American  to  te  sotne« 
tiling  more  than  a  Commuilorc.  His  precise  rank  they  couid 
not  determine.  It  was  evident  to  tliem  that  he  had  a  fleet 
outside  under  his  command  !  J3nt  he  spoke  and  acted  as  if  he 
not  only  had  authority  on  the  seus,  but  the  hind  also,  even  in 
Los  Californias  !  He  was  everywhere  j)resent,  forbidding 
one  thing  and  ordering  another ;  rushing  into  the  gover- 
nor's apartments,  upbraiding  him  for  his  acts,  and  threaten- 
ing to  bring  destruction  upon  the  town,  unless  all  his  capri- 
cious wishes  in  regard  to  the  rebels  were  gratified.  His  cha- 
racter was  an  enigma.  If  he  assumed  it,  death  was  too  light 
a  punishment.  If  he  were  really  a  high  agent  of  the  Rejtub- 
lic  of  North  America,  his  bearing  and  acts  comported  with 
his  character,  and  indicated  that  great  circumspection  would 
be  necessary  in  the  course  adopted  toward  the  prisoners. 

Mr.  Larkin  was  called  upon  to  express  his  opinion  in  this 
vexed  matter ;  but  he  very  properly  said  that  he  knew  noth- 
ing about  it,  except  that  this  man  appeared  to  be  one  who 
understood  his  duties,  whatever  they  were  ;  and  suggested 
that  it  might  not  be  well  to  disregard  his  opinions,  or  other- 
wise treat  him  with  disrespect.  The  subaltern  dignitaries 
thereupon  lUiide  tiieir  complimentary  acknowledgments  to 
the  American,  and  passed  a  part  of  the  day  with  him  and 
Mr.  Larkin.  It  pleased  them  to  say  many  handsome  things 
of  the  bravery  and  intelligence  of  the  citizens  of  the  States. 
They  were  told  in  reply  that  the  United  States  expected  the 
prisoners  to  be  released  from  unjust  and  tyrannical  impri- 
sonment. The  Sefiors  Imwed  assent ;  but  mentioned  as  a 
(iilficulty  in  the  way  of  this  proceeding,  that  to  release  them 
would  be  an  act  of  great  disrespect  to  the  governor,  Juan  Bap- 
tiste  Alvarado.  To  this  it  was  replied  that  such  disrespect 
would  not  be  very  alarming — not  quite  so  serious  as  the 
Paixhan  guns  of  an  American  or  British  man-of-war. 

Another  night  of  suffering  in  the  prisons.  "  Heat,  heat ! 
Air!  for  God's  sa'ce  pive  iis  air!  air!     You  brown  devils, 


a 
a 

A 

q 

ti 

i| 

ri 


c. 

ricanto  tesome- 
;  rank  they  could 
at  he  had  a  fleet 
uid  acted  as  if  he 
land  also,  even  in 
esent,  forbidding 
;  into  the  gover- 
cts,  and  threaten- 
nless  all  his  capri- 
ratified.    Hischa- 
Icath  was  too  light 
rent  of  the  Repub- 
s  comported  with 
nmspection  would 
d  the  prisoners, 
his  opinion  in  this 
hat  he  knew  noth- 
•ed  to  be  one  wlio 
re  ;  and  suggested 
I  opinions,  or  other- 
ibaltcrn  dignitaries 
•knowledgments  to 
day  with  him  and 
ly  handsome  things 
tizens  of  the  States, 
States  expt;cted  the 
;d  tyrannical  impri- 
but  mentioned  as  a 
that  to  release  them 
governor,  Juan  Bap- 
that  such  disrespect 
te  so  serious  as  the 
sh  man-of-war. 
sons.     "Heat,  heat! 
You  brown  devils, 


T 


TRAVEI-H     IN     THE     TAI,  IF0RNIA9. 


83 


1 


give  us  air  !"  were  heard  at  intervals,  till  the  noise  pf  open- 
ing day  drowned  these  agonizing  entreaties. 

On  tlic  morning  of  the  twenty-first,  the  American  was 
retuscd  any  intercourse  with  the  prisoners.  During  the  fore- 
noon, therefore,  he  walked  many  times  past  tlie  grates  ot  the 
several  buildings  ;  stopped  often  and  encouraged  the  in- 
mates by  bis  mien  to  hope  on  still.  Mr.  Larkin  had  fed 
them  liberally  in  the  morning,  and  furnished  every  cell  with 
an  abundant  supply  of  water.  Yet  they  suflered  greatly  ! 
They  looked  on  damp  prison  walls,  and  dragge<i  chains  at 
their  wrists  and  ancles  !  They  stood  or  sat  or  lay  on 
poached  mud !  They  saw  in  the  future  every  image  of  comi  ng 
evil !  Sulfocation,  the  pangs  of  death  one  at  a  time,  com- 
ing slowly  by  day  and  among  the  sleepless  moments  of  the, 
long  and  hot  nigbl — life  pendent  on  the  mercy  of  a  Califor- 
nian  Spaniard.     These  constituted  heir  condition. 

About  noon  of  the  21st,  a  half-breed  Spaniard  rode  into  town 
at  full  speed  and  held  a  hurried  conversation  with  the  guard 
around  the  prison,  and  then  entered  the  house  of  the  Governor. 
A  few  moments  having  elapsed  he  reappeared  and  sventtothe 
quarters  of  Jose  Castro.  A  moment  more  Castro  came  upon 
the  green,  issued  a  hasty  order  to  Corporal  Pinto,  and  re- 
paired to  the  Governor.  The  horseman,  meantime,  galloj^ed 
rapidiytobe  Castello.  Immediately  his  Excellentissimo  ap- 
peared on  the  balcony,  and  ordered thedrumsto  beat  to  arms  ! 
Soon  there  was  hot  haste  in  every  dwelling.  Women  ran 
to  the  windows  and  doors ;  children  pulled  at  their  mothers' 
skirts,  and  asked  what  had  happened.  The  men  ran  to  the 
public  green,  took  their  stations  in  the  ranks,  and  looked  al- 
ternately towards  the  hills  and  tlie  prisons.  The  dogs  bark- 
ed and  trotted  about  in  appar^mt  wonder;  the  goals  bleated 
and  stamped  their  feet ;  and  the  horses  neighed  and  ran  to 
the  sea-side,  and  the  cattle  raised  head  and  tail  and  lan  to- 
gether !  In  fact,  such  a  time  of  locomotion  had  not  for  many 
a  day  been  seen  in  Monti'ioy.  In  order  to  explain  this  phe- 
nomenon, it  will  be  necessary  for  me  to  show  its  cause. 


84 


RCKNES     tN     THE     PACIFIC. 


A  law  of  the  Republic  of  Mexico  re(|uiros  the  citizens  of 
other  luitions,  who  would  hunt,  trap,  or  trade  for  furs  on  any 
portion  of  her  dominions,  to  obtain  from  the  proper  authori- 
ties written  licenses  to  that  ellect.  Three,  four,  and  six 
months,  are  the  usual  terms  of  time  specified  in  them,  and  the 
rights  conveyed  by  them  vary,  from  the  mere  privilege  of 
trapping,  to  all  the  several  franchises  of  a  general  trader. 
With  these  stowed  away  in  deer-skin  pouches,  enveloped  in 
the  bladders  of  the  bufl'ido  so  saturated  with  grease  that  nei- 
ther the  storms  nor  streams  can  penetrate  them,  they  load  their 
mules  with  traps  and  goods  and  go  forth  into  the  wilderness. 
The  territories  over  which  they  more  commonly  travel  are 
those  which  lie  on  the  rivers  Jila,  the  Colorado  of  the  West, 
the  San  Joaquin,  and  Sacramento,  countries  inhabited  by  In- 
diansonly,  among  which  thecitizenR  of  the  Indio-Spanio-Bra- 
vo-Furioso-Militario-Despotico-RejmhUca-Americana,  dare 
not  enter.  Into  these  wastes  the  daring  Americans  fight  their 
way  through  the  savage  tribes  ;  trap  the  beaver  among  dying 
poisoned  arrows ;  guard  each  other  while  they  take  in  turn 
their  hurried  sleep ;  eat  the  flesh  of  wild  animals  and  beaten 
grass  seed ;  or,  as  is  often  the  case,  loose  themselves  and  die  of 
hunger,  thirst,  or  the  prostrating  effects  of  the  poisonous  wa- 
ters in  the  sandy  solitudes  over  which  they  attempt  to  travel. 

If,  however,  t)iey  survive  the  hardships  of  these  journeyings, 
collect  large  quantities  of  furs,  and  return  to  theborders  of  civ- 
ilization, satisfied  that  their  toil,  however  hazardous  it  may 
have  been,  has  resulted  in  an  adequ  ite  reward,  it  is  still  un- 
certain whether  they  have  labored  for  their  own  or  another's 
benefit.  The  authorities  who  have  sold  them  their  licenses  em- 
ploy various  means  to  rob  them  of  what  they  have  so  dearly 
acquired.  The  more  common  of  these  is  to  raise  questions  in 
regard  to  the  validity  of  the  licenses.  To  this  end  the  hunter 
and  his  furs  .re  seized  and  carried  before  the  Alcalde,  on  the 
assumption  that  they  have  been  obtained  without  lawful  per- 
mission .  The  court  is  opened,  and  the  possession  and  seizure 
is  proven — the  hunter  offers  in  evidence  of  his  right  of  pr^* 


I  c. 


OS  the  citizens  of 
le  for  furs  on  any 
le  proper  auihori- 
Tt'e,  four,  and  six 
a  in  them,  and  the 
mere  privilege  of 
•  u  general  trader. 
:hes,  enveloped  in 
th  grease  that  nei- 
lem,  they  load  their 
nto  the  wilderness, 
tnimonly  travel  are 
loradoofthe  West, 
•ics  inhabited  by  In- 
e  Indio-Spanio-Bra- 
:a-Jlmericana,  dare 
\mericans  fight  their 
beaver  among  flying 
le  they  take  in  turn 
animals  and  beaten 
themselves  and  die  of 
of  the  poisonous  wa- 
hey  attempt  to  travel, 
s  of  these  journeyings, 
nto  the  borders  of  civ- 
;ver  hazardous  it  may 
reward,  it  is  still  un- 
their  own  or  another's 
Ihemtheirlicensesem- 

at  they  have  so  dearly 
2  is  to  raise  questions  in 
To  this  end  the  hunter 

ore  the  Alcalde,  on  the 
ned  without  lawful  per- 
z  possession  and  seizure 
enceofhis  right  of  pro 


American  Fur  Traders. — ^P.  84. 


TRAVELS     IN     T  II  K     (.'  A  M  »' O  R  N  I  A  8  . 


8S 


perty,  his  carefully  preserved  license.  It  k  examined  by  the 
court  and  if  found  to  have  been  jjranted  by  the  political  par- 
ly  then  in  power,  it  is  declared  sufficient,  and  the  hunter  and 
/lis  furs  are  leleased.  Hut  if  it  unfortunately  proceeded  from 
the  antiiironist  political  sect,  the  court,  with  a  wisdom  by  no 
means  peculiar  to  themselves,  pronounce  that  act  of  tlieir 
predecessors  of  no  etfect,  and  declare  the  furs  forfeited  to 
the  government.  Nor  is  the  hunter  rendered  secure  from  de- 
predation by  the  adjudged  legality  of  his  acquisition.  Nu- 
merous instances  have  occurred  in  which  the  olKcials  of  New 
Mexico,  after  they  have  rendered  judgment  in  his  favor, 
have  hired  the  partially  civilized  Indians  to  follow  the  poor 
hunter,  on  his  way  over  the  plains  towards  his  home,  and 
rol)  himof  every  skin  he  has  taken,  even  his  wardrobe,  food, 
animals,  rifle,  and  left  him  to  perish  orreturn  to  the  cold  hos- 
pitalily  of  those  whose  creatures  have  ruined  him. 

Instances  ofanother  manner  of  committing  these  robberies 
have  occurred.  An  American  hunter  obtained  his  license  in 
Chihuahua,  went  to  Upper  California,  and  after  a  very  suc- 
cessful hunt  among  the  Tulares'  lakes  in  the  valley  of  the  San 
Joaijuin,  went  down  to  Monterey  for  rest  and  supplies.  On 
his  arrival  he  was  summoned  before  the  Alcalde  to  show  by 
what  right  he  had  entered  the  country  and  trapped  thebeaver 
He  had  lost  some  of  his  animals  while  fording  a  mountain 
torrent,  and  with  them  his  passport  and  license.  He  there- 
fore, could  show  no  authority  for  his  presence,  nor  cause  why 
the  furs  in  his  possession  should  not  be  declared  contraband. 
He  was  not  permitted  to  send  to  Chihuahua  for  evidence. 
The  loss  of  some  three  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  furs,  and 
seven  years  imprisonment,  at  Monterey,  was  the  result. 

Another  American  by  the  name  of  Young,  who  appears  m 
in  the  narrative  of  my  travels  across  the  continent,  was,  by 
means  like  these  robbed  of  some  thousands  of  beaver-skins, 
the  avails  of  raanyyears'  toil.  But  this  iniquitous  plunrlering 
has  not  been  confined  to  the  whites.  The  civilized  Indians 
on  our  western  frontier,  who  make  frequent  excursions  over 


86 


SCENES     FN     THE     PACIFIC. 


the  Rocky  Mountains  in  search  of  furs,  have  from  time  h> 
time  been  subjected  to  losses  and  the  most  degrading  personal 
treatment  from  theCalifbrnian  and  New  Mexican  authontie:*. 
Whites  and  Indians  having  been  injured  in  this  manner,  with- 
out personal  resistance,  until  all  hope  of  retribution  from  the 
federal  government,  and  every  prospect  ol  better  morals  on 
the  part  of  the  robbers,  had  forsaken  thern,  have  taken  the 
club  into  their  own  hands  :  and  the  ruined  Indian  and 
white  man  put  on  the  red  paint  of  battle,  band  together, 
make  incursions  among  the  covyards  of  Santa  F6,  and 
even  cross  the  mountains,  and  lay  tribute  upon  the  mules 
and  horses  of  the  Californians.  Such  were  the  Indians 
whose  presence  created  the  alarm  at  Monterey.  They  number- 
ed about  fifty.  And  the  vagabond  government  well  knew  that 
those  fifty  rides  if  brought  upon  the  town  at  that  time  would 
send  every  poltroon  of  them  to  their  last  rest.  No  wonder, 
then,  that  there  was  quaking  at  Monterey.  Old  scores  and  la- 
ter  ones  would  have  been  balanced,  if  those  men  had  dream- 
ed that  Americans  and  Britons  were  in  the  prisons  of  Monterey. 

It  was  suggested  by  several  persons  that  the  prisoners 
would  be  shot  during  the  week  without  trial.  Acting  upon 
this  hint  the  American  intimated  to  some  of  the  more  pru- 
dent and  intelligent  among  them,  his  willingness  to  aid  them 
in  breaking-  prison,  taking  the  town,  and  disposing  of  the 
authorities  at  rope's  end,  if  they  did  not  give  them  a  fair 
trial  within  three  days  thereafter.  These  propositions  in- 
spired them  with  such  new  life,  or  rather  so  kindled  into 
action  the  little  that  was  left  in  them,  that  those  who  had 
strength  enough  to  make  themselves  heard,  struck  up  "  Hail 
Columbia,"  and  "  Rule  Britannia,"  with  a  fervor  that  at 
intervals  choked  their  utterance  ! 

I  never  before  felt  the  force  of  thes  national  son nrs.  The 
night  was  still!  Scarcely  a  sound  was  heard  save  the  heavy 
surf  beating  on  the  rocks  of  Puentos  Pinos.  I  walked 
around  the  prisons  till  eleven  o'clock,  to  the  peril  of  life,  in- 
deed, but  in  the  enjoyinentof  feelings  dearer  than  life  itself. 


I 


TRAVELS    IN     THE     CAMFORNIAS. 


87 


jve  from  time  to 
grading  personal 
xicanauthonties. 
his  manner,  with- 
ribution  from  the 
better  morals  on 
I,  have  taken  tlie 
med   Indian  and 
e,  band  together, 
if  Santa  F6,  and 
e  upon  the  mules 
were  the  Indians 
ey,  Theynumber- 
ent  well  knew  that 
it  that  time  would 
rest.     No  wonder, 
.  Old  scores  and  1a- 
se  men  had  dreani- 
msons  of  Monterey, 
that  the  prisoners 
trial.     Acting  upon 
e  of  the  more  pru- 
lino"ness  to  aid  them 
id  disposing  of  the 
ot  give  them  a  fair 
lese  propositions  in- 
ther  so  kindled  into 
that  those  who  had 
ard,  struck  up  "  Hail 
ith  a  fervor  that  at 

national  songs.  The 
heard  save  the  heavy 
s  Pinos.  I  walked 
to  the  peril  of  life,  in- 
I  dearer  than  life  itself. 


«  Hail  Columbia !"  I  wish  my  readers  could  conceive 
Bomething  of  the  stirring  might  of  those  words  sung  by 
parched  lips  within  the  prisons  of  California  !  Dying  Amer- 
icans sang  them !  The  unconquerable  sons  of  the  Repub- 
lic sang  them,  though  strength  was  sinking  and  the  blood 
flowed  feebly  through  her  children's  veins  ! 

<«  Rule  Britannia!"  The  battle  anthem  of  the  fatherland ! 
Sturdy  Britons  were  there  to  sing.  Their  voices  seemed  weak 
when  they  began  it ;  but  as  their  feelings  seized  more  per- 
fectly the  inspiration  of  poetry  and  music,  the  floating  walls 
of  the  Island  Empire  seemed  to  heave  in  view.  "  Rule  Bri- 
tannia !"  It  came  ringing  through  the  grates  during  the  lat- 
ter part  of  the  evening  with  a  broken,  wild  shout,  as  if  the 
breath  of  those  who  uttered  it  came  fresh  from  Trafalgar  I 

Pinto,  the  captain  of  the  guard,  inquired  the  purport  of 
their  songs,  and  was  told  by  a  Scotchman  at  the  grates  that 
they  were  "  the  war-cries  of  Britain  and  America,  and  that 
the  Californians,  Mexicans,  and  the  rest  of  the  Spanish 
creation,  had  better  vote  themselves  asses  and  devils  before 
those  nations  forced  the  idea  into  them  from  the  muzzles  of 
their  rifles !" 

This  Pinto  was  a  small  pattern  even  of  a  coward,  but  what 
there  was  of  him  one  could  not  doubt  was  the  genuine  article. 
He  had  a  srcall  narrow  head,  very  black  stiff  hair,  a  long  thin 
nose  with  a  sharp  pendant  point ;  small  snakish  eyes,  very 
near  neighbors,  and  always  peering  out  at  the  corners  of  the 
sockets  ;  a  very  slender  sharp  chin,  with  a  villanous  tuft  of 
bristles  on  the  under  lip ;  a  dark  swarthy  complexion  burnish- 
ed with  the  grin  of  an  idiotic  hyena.  Who  would  not  expect 
such  an  animal  to  be  frightened  at  the  carnage  songs  of  the 
piirent  of  nations  and  her  firstborn  child  !  He  did  fear,  the 
miniiif  ure  scoundrel !  He  had  been  one  of  the  principle  in- 
stigators of  this  barbarity,  and  if  he  believed  in  the  recupe 
rative  energies  of  prostrated  justice  he  had  reason  to  tremble. 
In  his  trepidation  he  sougU  the  quarters  of  Jose  Castro. 
This  man  was  his  monster  superior.     With  the  geneial  out- 


,  L 


88 


SCENES    lie     THE     PACIFIC. 


lines  of  the  human  frame,  he  united  every  lineament  of  a 
thoroughbred  ourang-outang :  as,  very  long  arms,  very  large 
brawny  hands,  a  very  heavy  body,  and  a  very  contemptible 
face,  vrinkled  and  drawn  into  a  broad  concentrated  scowl 
of  unsatisfied  selfishness. 

This  dignitary  iiuide  the  rounds  of  the  guard  and  retired 
to  his  couch,  satisfied  that  he  was  really  what  he  modestly 
called  himself — the  Napoleon  of  Western  America !  Pinto 
took  up  his  position  with  great  resolution  in  the  shade  of  an 
adobie  wall,  ai  a  safe  distance  from  the  prisons  ;  and  when 
I  ieit  the  ground  he  was  employing  his  knees  in  knocking 
each  other  into  a  stiff  stand  against  unmanly  fear.  Nothing 
else  worthy  of  note  occurred  during  the  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22d  the  governor  sent  again  for 
the  American.  He  would  not  see  the  messenger.  About 
nine  o'clock,  however,  he  walked  down  before  the  prisons 
and  spoke  a  word  of  cheer  to  their  inmates.  They  were 
wretched,  but  hope  was  awakened  in  them  by  his  presence 
and  fearlessness. 

There  was  evident  consternation  among  the  dons.  That 
American  signalling  the  Don  Quixote  every  morning  as  she 
swept  into  the  harbor,  and  the  idea  of  a  fleet  outside,  its 
commander  ashore,  communicating  with  it  by  a  fast-sailing 
brig,  and  that  commander  defying  the  governor,  breaking 
through  the  guards,  conversing  with  the  prisoners,  and  those 
martial  songs  by  night,  were  ominous  circumstances  in  the 
eyes  of  those  contemptible  tyrants-! 

About  noon  it  was  reported  that  the  prisoners  would  have 
a  trial !  A  little  advance  this !  The  government  had  begun 
to  yield  to  its  fears,  what  it  would  not  to  its  sense  of  justice. 

The  next  morning,  the  23d,  the  entire  standing  army,  con- 
sisting of  sixteen  filthy  half-breeds,  and  a  corps  of  .about  sixtj 
volunteers,  mustered  at  the  beat  of  the  drum  before  the  pri- 
sons. Twenty-one  of  the  prisoners  were  brought  out  between 
the  lines,marched  to  the  governor's  house,  and  seated  on  the 
grass  in  front  of  it.    They  were  emaciated  and  pallid,  but  re- 


c. 

lineament  of  a 
arms,  very  lar^e 
;ry  contemptible 
centrated  scowl 

uard  and  retired 
?hat  he  modestly 
\merica !  Pinto 
1  ihe  shade  of  an 
isons ;  and  when 
lecs  in  knocking 
ly  fear.  Nothing 
ight. 

lOr  sent  again  for 
essenger.  About 
before  the  prisons 
ates.  They  were 
m  by  his  presence 

g  the  dons.  That 
ery  morning  as  she 
fi  fleet  outside,  its 
it  by  a  fast-sailing 
rovernor,  breaking 
)risoners,  and  those 
Tcumstances  in  the 

•isoners  would  have 
'ernment  had  begun 

its  sense  of  justice. 

standing  army,  con- 
I  corps  of  about  sixty 
drum  before  the  pri- 
brought out  between 
se,  and  seated  on  the 
2d  and  pallid,  but  re- 


TRAVEL8    IN     THE    CALIPORNIAB. 


89 


folute.  The  American  pushed  his  way  through  the  crowd 
of  officers  and  citizens,  seated  himself  within  twelve  feet  of 
the  prisoners,  and  manifested  to  them  by  the  sincerest  com- 
passion and  most  resolute  acts,  that  if  they  ilied  he  died  with 
them.  He  had  agreed  with  them  to  appear  before  the  prison 
al  the  middle  hour  of  night,  on  the  twenty-fourth,  and  go 
with  them  to  t>ecdom  or  a  lirave  death,  if  they  were  not  fairly 
tried  and  on  evidence  condemned,  or  released  before  the  fol- 
lowing midnight.     Tliis  promise  they  felt  would  be  kept. 

The  trial,  as  it  was  called,  soon  commenced.  Each  man 
was  summoned  singly  from  his  seat  to  a  lower  room  in  the 
governor's  house,  and  called  upon  to  produce  his  passport. 
Most  of  them  replied,  that  they  were  arrested  in  their  fields 
or  workshops,  aixd  were  not  permitted  to  go  to  their  resi- 
dences for  papers  or  anything  else. 

To  this  the  Alcalde  who  sat  in  judgment  said,  "  I  have 
no  evidence  before  me  of  your  lawful  right  to  remain  in 
California." 

The  next  question  was,  "  What  do  you  know  of  a  revo- 
lutionary movement  under  Graham  V 

The  reply  was,  "  I  know  nothing  of  any  such  movement 

or  intention." 

"  What  meant  that  advertisement  for  a  horse-race,  put 
forth  by  Graham  ?" 

"  It  meant  what  such  advertisements  have  meant  for  the 
last  five  years :  a  wish  on  the  part  of  Graham  to  run  his 
American  horse  in  California." 

"  Notliing  more  ]     Nothing  more  ?" 

This  was  the  form  of  trial  in  each  case.  The  only  favor 
they  craved  was,  that  they  might  have  an  interpreter  who 
understood  both  languages.  This  was  denied  them.  A 
miserable  tool  of  the  government,  who  spoke  the  English 
so  badly  that  he  could  never  make  himself  understood, 
succeeded,  by  his  manner  of  translating  their  answers,  in 
making  them  confess  themselves  guilty  of  high  treason,  aud 
other  misdcn:eanors  worthy  of  the  bullet. 


SCENES    IN     THE     PACIFIC 


Aftci  all  had  passed  this  ordeal,  a  Botany  Bay  Convict,  hy 
the  name  of  Garner,  was  called  in  evidence  on  bchnlf  of  tne 
(jfovernment.  His  testimony  r«moved  all  lingering  doubts. 
He  established  the  unqualified  guilt  of  all.  Graham,  in  par- 
ticular, who  had  been  preferred  over  him  as  commander  of 
the  foreign  riflemen  in  Alvarado's  revolution,  and  whom  he 
had  previously  attempted  to  kill,  he  declared  to  have  formed  a 
scheme  of  ambition,  which,  had  it  not  been  discovered,  would 
have  dug  the  grave  of  every  Spaniard  in  California ! !  This 
man's  testimony  was  written  out  and  signed  by  his  murderous 
hand.     It  may  be  in  due  time  a  blister  on  his  perjured  soul. 

The  reported  confessions  of  each  prisoner  were  reduced  to 
writing  in  the  Spanish  language.  They  contained,  as  I  after- 
ward learned  in  Mexico,  things  never  said,  accounts  of  acts 
never  performed,  and  bequests  of  property  to  their  persecu- 
tors, their  jailers,  and  to  those,  who,  on  several  occasions, 
thrust  sabres  at  their  hearts  when  nearly  helpless  in  the  dun- 
geons of  Monterey,  which  I  need  not  say  were  never  made. 
Few  of  them  could  read  Spanish,  and  none  were  permitted  to 
peruse  these  documents.  They  were  compelled  to  sign  them, 
af?  poor  Morris  was,  by  threats  of  instant  death  if  they  refused. 
Thus  ended  the  trial  of  one  hundred  andsixty-odd  Americans 
and  Britons,  before  a  court  of  Californian  Arabs  !  What  its 
judgment  would  be  was  the  painful  question  in  every  mind ! 
A  few  of  them  had  been  sent  to  their  places  of  residence  with- 
out arms,  or  any  intimation  whether  it  would  be  the  sublime 
pleasure  of  the  villains  that  they  should  live  or  die :  the  greater 
part  were  remanded  to  the  prisons.  And  again,  while  they 
sat,  stood, and  laid  onthemud  floors  of  their  cells,  and  clanked 
their  fetters  and  handcuffs,  they  sang  "  Hail  Columbia," 
and  "  Rule  Britannia,"  as  another  night  of  wo  passed 
aw^y  !  That  spectre  fleet  and  its  commander  were  the  only 
hope  between  them  and  death.     On  this  they  leaned ! 

On  the  morning  of  the  twenty-third  the  drums  beat  at 
early  dawn,  and  the  whole  military  force  paraded  before  the 
dungeons.    An  imposing  display  was  that.    The  clanking  of 


T 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     C  A  I,  I  K  O  K  N  I  A  9  . 


91 


Bay  Convict,  by 
on  bchnlf  of  tne 
ingering  doubts. 
Graham,  in  par- 
as commander  of 
)n,  and  whom  he 
1  to  have  formed  a 
liscovered,  would 

iliforflia!!     This 
by  his  murderous 
his  perjured  soul. 
;r  were  reduced  to 
ntained,  as  I  after- 
l,  accounts  of  acts 
^  to  their  persecu- 
several  occasions, 
elpless  in  the  dun- 
'  were  never  made. 
e  were  permitted  to 
jelled  to  sign  them, 
^ath  if  they  refused, 
xty-odd  Americans 
,  Arabs  !    What  its 
tion  in  every  mind ! 
es  of  residence  with- 
ould  be  the  sublime 
ve  or  die -.the  greater 

[id  again,  while  they 
eir  cells,  and  clanked 
"  Hail  Columbia," 
night  of  wo  passed 
nander  were  the  only 
lis  they  leaned ! 
d  the  drums  beat  at 
ce  paraded  before  the 
tiat.   The  clanking  of 


rusty  swords  and  scabbards,  the  jingling  of  loose  gun-locks, 
and  the  right-about-face-forward-march  operations  of  these 
bandy-lcrired,  pale-livered,  disconsolate  sons  of  iMars,  pray- 
in-  to  the'saints  that  they  might  not  be  annihilated  by  such  ter- 
rible  events,  told  a  story  of  valor,  -vhich  future  ages  ought  to 
hear  with  appalled  oars !     The  times  which  try  lien's  souls 
have  always  been  remarkable  in  some  way  ;   and  this  day 
was  chietly  conspicuous  for  bec-f  and  beans.     The  quantity 
of  these  articles  which  they  devoured  at  breakfast,  was  in- 
credible;  and  the  grease  and  dirt  which  they  consumed, 
the  glare  and  quick  twinkling  of  the  eyes  for  more,  and  the 
panlin.r  obesity  of  their  persons  when  the  meal  was  ended, 
indicatl'd  great  perseverance,  if  not  indomitable  bravery. 

As  in  other  countries  talent  is  measured  by  impudence, 
tnoral  worth  by  long  faces  and  ster.^oty  ped  solemnity  of  coun- 
tenance, and  rank  by  the  elevation  of  the  nose  and  the  suc- 
cessful villainy  of  ancestors,  so  in  California,  with  the  same 
unquestionable  good  sense,  do  the  cavalieros  measure  their 
manliness  of  character,  their  bravery  in  arms,  their  civil  and 
.ocial  elevation,  1)V  the  capacity  of  their  stomachs  and  their 
eloquence  in  boasting.     Never  were  men  happier  or  niore 
thorou-rhly  self-content  than  the  troops  of  Monterey  at  their 
beef  and  beans.     The  events  of  The  Revolution  we.e  dis- 
cussed  with  full  mouthsand  laboring  throats.  Los  Espamoles 
del  Alta  California,  to  wit,  every  Indian  with  a  drop  of  Span- 
ish blood  under  his  filthy  skin,  were  muy  bravos,  extremely 
brave,  and  their  conduct  in  the  late  troubles  was  second  to 
nothing  recorded  since  the  siege  of  Mexico  under  Cortes. 

It  is  said  bv  some  one  who  pretends  to  know,  that  the 
world  generally  estimates  us  by  the  value  we  set  upon  our- 
selves Whether  this  opinion  be  founded  in  truth  or  not,  I 
am  unable  to  determine.  But  certain  it  is,  the  Genius  of 
Glory  in  these  days  seems  to  be  in  her  dotage.  Homer, 
Socrates,  Luther  and  Washington,  wear  her  laurels  with  so 
much  grace,  that  the  old  jade  appears  to  think  it  a  mere 
amusement  to   make   immortal    men.      Accordingly   she 


93 


BCENES    IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


throws  the  poet's  wreath  upon  moon-struck  rhymsters,  tlie 
philosopher's  crown  upon  heads  with  long  hair  and  dirty 
beards,  that  of  the  Reformer  upon  apes  and  brass-mounted 
women,  and  even  tries  to  make  men  out  of  male  Callforni- 
ans.     Sad  mistakes  are  all  these  ;  and  particularly  the  last. 

About  ten  o'clock  the  troops  were  reviewed  by  Don  Jose 
Castro.  A  little  after  eleven,  all  the  prisoners  except  forty- 
six  were  pardoned.  These  the  government  would  not  libe- 
rate. They  had  acted  a  conspicuous  part  in  Alvarados* 
revolution,  and  were  feared  as  likely  to  demand  for  them- 
selves and  their  companions  the  fulfilment  of  the  promises 
which  he  had  made  them.  The  American  had  suggested 
that  they  should  be  sent  to  the  Consuls  of  their  respective 
governments  at  Tepic.  A  ship  which  had  been  chartered 
for  that  purpose  (the  Roger  Williams,  of  Boston),  was  float- 
ing in  the  harbor.  Thedoorsof  the  prisons  were  opened;  the 
emaciated  tenants  came  out,  chained  two  and  two,  hand  and 
foot,  some  of  them  with  no  clothing  except  a  pair  of  ragged  pan- 
taloons. The  Spaniards  had  robbed  them  not  only  of  their 
catth;,  horses,  mules,  and  freedom,  but  also  of  their  wardrobe. 
They  were  marched  towards  the  shore,  clanking  their  chains. 
Poor  Graham  and  Morris  were  so  heavily  loaded  with  irons 
that  it  required  four  stout  Indians  to  carry  them. 

The  American  mingled  among  them,  and  dissuaded  them 
from  a  contemplated  insurrection  on  ship-board.  Three  Cal- 
ifornian  women  followed  the  prisoners.  They  were  wi  ves, 
and  had  children.  They  clung  to  their  husbands  and  wept 
aloud.  Castro  ordered  them  to  be  driven  away  with  blows. 
They  were  beaten  with  swords,  tut  would  not  go.  They 
led  their  children,  and  helped  bear  the  chains  that  were 
galling  the  bleeding  limbs  of  those  whom  they  loved. 

They  said,  "  the  soldiers  have  taken  all  our  horses,  cat- 
tle and  property,  and  now  they  take  you  away  from  us  for 
ever  1  May  God  take  our  lives !  Oh,  Mary,  mother  of 
God,  pray  for  us !" 

As  they  were  going  down  to  the  boat,  poor  old  Grahpm 


n  c. 


uck  rhymsters,  tlie 
ong  hair  and  dirty 
and  brass-mounted 
L  of  male  Callforni- 
articularly  the  hist. 
iewed  by  Don  Jose 
soners  except  forty- 
ent  would  not  libe- 

part  in  Alv.irados* 
)  demand  for  them- 
nt  of  the  promises 
ican  had  suggested 

of  their  respective 
lad  been  chartered 
'  Boston),  was  float- 
is  were  opened;  the 
0  and  two,  hand  and 

a  pair  of  ragged  pan- 
m  not  only  of  their 
so  of  their  wardrobe, 
anking  their  chains, 
ly  loaded  with  irons 
rry  them. 

and  dissuaded  them 

-board.    Three  Cal- 

They  were  wives, 

husbands  and  wept 
;n  away  with  blows, 
ould  not  go.  They 
le  chains  that  were 
im  they  loved. 

all  our  horses,  cat- 
ou  away  from  us  for 
,  Mary,  mother  of 

it,  poor  old  Grah?m 


TnAVEI.8     IN     THE     CALIF0RNIA8. 


§s 


seemed  entirely  broken-hearted.  The  American  said  (o 
him,  "Be  brave,  Graiiain,  be  brave!  Lei  no  Tennessean 
ever  think  of  yielding  in  (his  way.  Raise  your  head  and 
keep  it  erect.  Once  landed  at  San  Bias,  you  are  safe.  I 
will  see  you  when  you  land." 

"Ah,"  said  Graham,"  I  never  can  be  a  man  again  after 
having  these  feet  bound  with  ironsby  a  Californinn;  never 
again !  I  could  bear  to  be  a  prisoner  to  a  brave  and  decent 

people,  buttobecaughtandcooped  up,  chained  and  exported 
like  a  tub  of  lard,  by  these  here  scabs  of  mankind,  is  mighty 

bad !  No,  I  never  shall  be  a  man  again,  Mr .     Here, 

take  my  hand.  We  should  have  been  riddled  with  bullets  if 
you  had  not  been  here,  could  the  rascals  have  drawn  a  bead 
close  enough  to  hit  us!  I  never  shall  be  a  man  again! 
Irons  on  the  legs  of  a  man  who  fought  for  them,  who  made 
the  cowards  what  they  are !  With  my  fifty  rifles  about  me,  I 
could  drive  the  devils  from  the  whole  coast  or  lay  them  away 
to  rot.  But  I  won't  think  on't.  I  never  can  be  a  man  again  !" 

They  put  him  and  some  others  into  a  boat  and  pushed  off 

for  the  ship.     "  Farewell,  Mr. ,  farewell :  but  stop, 

hold  on  !— have  you  got  money  enough  to  get  home  with  ? 
I  will  let  you  have  some  in  San  Bias.  But  I  never  shall 
be  Graham  again !" 

The  boats  continued  to  ply  between  the  ship  and  the  shore 
until  all  were  carried  on  board.  The  multitude  then  retired  to 
the  town.  Deepfeelings  struggled  in  every  breast  at  the  termi- 
nation  of  this  affair.  Alvarado  was  mad  that  he  had  not  shot 
Graham,  to  whom  he  owed  $2,235  and  other  obligations  ; 
those  cavalieros  whohad  been  rejected  by  ladies  to  make  way 
for  foreign  suitors,  were  enraged  beyond  measure  that  most 
of  them  had  been  left  in  the  country.  The  ladies  generally 
rejoiced  that  no  blood  had  been  shed ;  the  wives  of  those  who 
had  been  sent  on  board  the  prison-ship,  sat  on  shore  beneath 
the  tree  where  the  cross  was  erected  by  Padre  Junipero,  and 
wept  upon  the  necks  of  their  children,  until  the  ship  was  out 
of  sight.     The  American  suggested  that  the  (own  might  be 


^  iCE^  ER     IH     THE     PACIFIC. 

laken,  aad  the  perpetrators  of  such  outrages  be  dUposto  of  al 
rope's  end  ;  but  the  proposition  was  discountenanced  by  the 
residents.     The  church  w.s  opened,  and  a  Te  Deum  .unff 
for  the  deliverance  of  the  country  !     After  this,  each  class 
true  to  their  leading  emotions,  gathered  in  knots  about  town 
and  talked  of  these  strange  things  till  supper  separated 
them  for  the  night.     During  the  evening  some  of  the  offi- 
cers of  government  called  at  Mr.  Larkm's,  and  infornicd 
the  American  that  the  governor  had  sent  the  prisoners  to 
the  American  and  British  Consuls  at  Tepic,  v.a  San  Bias, 
and  that  the  vessel  would  put  into  Santa  Barbara  for  pro- 
visions and  other  prisoners. 

The  twenty.fourth  morning  of  Apnl  was  clear  ;  the  sun 
came  up  the  eastern  hills  on  a  landscape  of  sweet  thmgs.  No 
one  born  anddwellingin  the  rugged,  changing  seasons  of  the 

Northcan  know,  without  experiencing,  the  delights  of  a  ch- 
mate  like  that  of  California.  From  spring  to  spring  agam 
all  is  friendly  ;  from  morning  till  morning  comes  again  al  is 
pleasant  to  breathe  and  to  see;  from  hour  to  hour  the 
body  feels  in  the  air  a  balmy  blessing;  from  moment  to 
moment  the  blood  leaps  vigorously  through  the  frame 

Near  eleven  o'clock  the  troops  were  in  motion,  and  Mr. 
Larkii.  and,myself  went  down  to  tne  public  green,  to  see 

what  might  transpire. 

We  fouudthegreen  covered  with  the  people  kneeling  and 
cross-ng  .  fcmsehes,  and  the  priest  in  full  robes  performing 
high-mas.  near  the  door  of  the  governor's  dwelling.     His 
FxcellentiMim. -as  kneeling  with  his  officers  before  the 
al  art  devoutl,  as  if  he  had  been  obedient  to  the  com- 
mandments  fror^  his  youth  till  that  time.     It  .^s  shoacing 
to  hear  him  respond  to  the  prayers  for  '^P«"*«r:  ^t'^^ 
any  observer  might  see  the  malignity  w  ^  which  he  hac 
lughtthelives  of  his  friends,  struggling  among  the  muscles 
of  his  face  and  burning  in  his  eyes  ! 

X  he  services  being  ended,  the  governor  retired  into  h.- 
^ouse.  Tlnnks  had  been  given  to  God  forsavingthe  countr. 


L 


■I  c. 

s  be  disposta  of  at 
jntenanced  by  the 
a  Te  Deum  aung 
CT  this,  each  class 
knots  about  town, 
supper  separated 
r  some  of  the  ofii- 
n's,  and  informed 
lit  the  prisoners  to 
!pic,  via  San  Bias, 
a  Barbara  for  pro- 

xas  clear  ;  the  sun 
)f  sweet  things.  No 
iging  seasons  of  the 
he  delights  of  a  cli- 
:ing  to  spring  again 
ig  comes  again  all  is 
1  hour  to  hour  the 
r ;  from  moment  to 
jugh  the  frit  me. 
in  motion,  and  Mr. 
public  green,  to  see 

;  people  kneeling  and 
"uU  robes  performing 
lor's  dwelling.  His 
s  officers  before  the 
)bedient  to  the  com- 
(le.  It  was  shocking 
for  repentance,  while 
V  w  iV  which  he  had 
ng  among  the  muscles 

ernor  retired  into  ha 
Iforsavingthecountr* 


I 


'RAVELS     IN     THi.     CAU  IFORNIAS 


95 


I 


^m  danger  which  never  existed,  and  for  protectii.g  the 
vilhilns  thiit  pretended  its  existence  as  an  excuse  for  shed- 
ding blood. 

No  other  event  occurred  that  day  worthy  of  being  no- 
ticed, except  the  wives  of  those  poor  fellows  who  were 
floating  down  the  coast  in  the  prison-ship  went  weeping 
through  the  streets,  best^eching  all  they  met  to  go  down  to 
Santa  Barbara  and  bring  back  their  husbands. 

I  spent  my  time  among  the  foreigners,  who  had  been  let 
out  of  prison,  in  gathering  information  relative  to  the  coun- 
try, which  will  be  given  in  another  part  of  the  volume. 

The  evening  was  passed  at  Mr.  Larkin's.  We  were  hap- 
py, not  because  we  felt  no  danger  around  us,  for  there  was 
much  of  it.  But  we  were  glad  that  no  more  groans  came 
up  from  the  damp  dungeons  !  That  none  of  our  countrymen 
were  calling  for  air,  and  water,  and  food,  from  those  infernal 
dens !  Alas,  for  those  who  were  on  their  way  to  Mexico 
We  thought  of  them  sadly  ;  they  might  be  dying  ;  but  wf 
called  hojx;  to  otir  aid,  and  believed  that  better  hours  would 
soon  dawn  on  their  misery.  More  than  one  hundred  of  onr 
countrymen  were  released  from  impending  death  !  Bolts 
grated  no  more !  chains  clanked  no  more  on  the  silen' 
night!  And  we  felt  in  our  own  persons  something  of  that 
returning  security  to  life  which  sends  through  the  sol'  of 
the  most  reckless  and  inexpressible  sense  of  pleasure. 

The  next  morning  th<>  green  before  the  governor's  ho«se 
was  graced  with  a  portly  effigy  of  Senor  Judas  Iscariot ! 
One  ankle  out  of  joint,  and  other  parts  disarranged,  for  the 
especial  gratification  of  his  inferiors  in  moral  qualities.  The 
senor  was  assumed  to  be  dead.  His  optics  glared  rather 
sorrowfully  upon  the  multitude  around  him,  as  if  loth  to 
look  the  last  time  on  congenial  hearts !  He  held  in  his 
hand  a  scroll,  containing  a  last  will  and  testament,  in  which 
his  several  virtues  and  possesions  were  bequeathed  to  vari- 
ous persons  residing  in  the  country. 

In  the  afternoon  the  American  and  some  other  gentlemen 


a9 


■  CENRi     IN     THK     PACfFrC. 


were  invited  by  an  English  resident  to  a  frsta  on  the  shores 
of  the  bay.  And  beiriff  in  a  mood  to  seize  upon  anythinf^to 
divert  thought  from  the  unpleasant  reminiscences  of  the  past 
week,  we  gladly  accepted  the  invitation,  without  knowing 
indeed  what  a  Californian  festa  might  be.  Dr.  Bale  was  one 
of  the  guests,  and  kindly  conducted  us  to  the  place  selected 
fbr  the  ceremonies.  It  was  among  the  trees,  a  short  distance 
southwest  of  the  anchorage  ;  a  wild,  rude  spot.  The  old 
trees,  which  had  thrown  theirbranches  over  the  savage  before 
H  white  man  had  touched  the  shores,  were  rotting  on  the 
ground,  and  formed  the  fuel  of  our  fire  !  The  ancient  rocks 
stood  around,  covered  with  the  moss  of  ages!  The  winds 
sang  in  the  trees !  The  ringing  cadences  of  the  towering 
pine,  the  deep  bass  of  the  strong  spreading  oak,  the  mellow 
alto  of  the  flowering  shrubs,  the  low,  soft  voice  of  the 
grasses,  nature's  great  iEolian  lyre,  breathed  sweet  music ! 
The  old  wilderness  was  there,  unshorn,  and  holy,  respond- 
ing to  the  songs  of  birds  in  the  morn  of  the  opening  year. 

When  we  arrrived,  half  a  dozen  brunettes  were  spread- 
ing cloihs  upon  the  grass,  and  displaying  upon  them  boiled 
ham,  dried  beef,  tongue,  bread,  pies,  cigars,  and  various 
kinds  of  wines,  from  the  vineyards  of  the  country  ;  so  that 
a  festa  proved  to  be  an  invitation  for  us  to  eat  and  drinK 
among  a  group  of  joyous  children  and  smiling  lasses.  Yes 
smiling,  hearty  Californian  lasses.  Who  is  not  glad  to  see 
me  repeat  words  that  speak  of  the  smiles  of  women  1  I  do 
not  mean  those  heart-rending  efforts  at  grinning,  which  one 
80  often  meets  in  mechanical  society  ;  but  those  pulsations 
of  genuine  joy  and  truth,  which  come  up  impulsively  from 
woman's  real  nature,  shedding  on  the  dwelling-places  of  the 
race  the  sweetest  elements  of  the  social  state.  It  u  that 
sunshine  of  our  moral  being  ^hich  beams  on  our  cradles, 
on  the  paths  of  our  childhood,  on  the  stormy  skies  of  mis- 
fortune in  the  years  of  manhood,  which  warms  the  chilled 
heart  of  age  into  renewed  life,  and  shines  on  till  sight  and 
sense  are  lost  in  the  dark  gateway  to  the  after  state ! 


TRAVEI,  9      llf      THI      CAMFORNIAfl. 


97 


f  I  C. 


^rsta  on  the  shores 
!  upon  anything  to 
5cences  of  the  past 
without  knowini» 
Dr.  Bale  was  ono 
the  place  selected 
es,  a  short  distance 
Ic  spot.     The  old 
er  the  savage  before 
ere  rotting  on  the 
The  ancient  rocks 
ages!     The  winds 
cs  of  the  towering 
ng  oak,  the  mellow 
■,  soft  voice  of  the 
ithed  sweet  music! 
,  and  holy,  respond- 
the  opening  year, 
nettes  were  spread- 
ng  upon  them  boiled 
cigars,  and  various 
ihe  country  ;  so  that 
us  to  eat  and  drinw 
smiling  lasses.    Yes 
rho  is  not  glad  to  sec 
les  of  women  ?    I  do 
t  grinning,  which  one 
but  those  pulsations 
up  impulsively  from 
iwelling-places  of  the 
cial  state.     It  u  that 
cams  on  our  cradles, 
I  stormy  skies  of  mis- 
ich  warms  the  chillod 
lines  on  till  sight  and 
I  the  after  state  ! 


We  ate  and  drank  freely.  Who  could  do  otherwise  7  The 
mellow  laugh  of  childhood,  the  holy  kimlncss  of  maternal 
care,  the  pride  of  the  paternal  heart,  the  love  of  woman,  the 
sky  and  fragrant  breezes  of  a  Californian  lawn,  the  open  sea, 
the  giant  woodlands,  the  piping  insects,  the  carolling  of  a  thou- 
sand birds,  the  voices  of  a  boundless  hospitality,  invited  us  to 
do  so.  The  fuiest  dish  of  all  the  goodly  array  of  fat  things, 
the  brunette  lips  excepted,  was  the  roasted  mussels.  The  In- 
dians in  attendance  gathered  a  number  of  bushels,  piled  them 
upon  a  large  log  fire,  and  in  a  few  minutes  presented  them  to 
us,  thoroughly  cooked  and  delicious  to  the  taste.  Indeed  I 
hope  for  no  better  fish.  They  are  tender  as  an  oyster,  with 
as  fine  flavor ;  and  the  abundance  of  them  is  really  remarka- 
ble !     The  coast  is  lined  with  them. 

Our  festa  ended  near  sunset.  It  had  been  as  agreeable  as 
our  hosts'  best  attentions  could  render  it.  The  ladies  also  had 
vied  with  each  other  to  make  the  occasion  happy.  But  their 
gladness  was  forced.  A  deep  gloom  like  that  which  the  thun- 
der-cloud  throws  over  the  flowering  meadow-land,  saddened 
their  smiles,  arrested  the  laugh  half-uttered,  bent  the  figure,  and 
shaded  the  warm  glow  of  joy  in  the  eye,  with  the  cold 
watchfulness  of  alarm!  Such  was  the  influence  of  that 
prison  ship,  the  last  speck  of  which  had  been  watched,  as  it 
sunk,  hull,  spars,  and  streamer,  over  the  bending  sea,  freight- 
ed with  chains  and  the  misery  of  fellow-countrymen,  that  tha 
heart  could  not  be  persuaded  into  happinMB  ! 


CHAPTER  V!. 

An  Indian  Lawy.T  and  h.s  W.fe-A  SP^^--'  i-„r_Ton>'s  New 

En.l.arka.ion-WeiKhing  A'"'"-^-^"  ^'";";1t„„Vs  opinion  of  iht 
Axo-Goneral  Trainm«  Uny'-B.c.n.u-.  ^^^  '  ^^„^,  .....^Mand-s- 
Lana  ana  its  lnhabi,an.s_A  ';"-'';^"-'7^';  °  i,.rb.ra-Thc  Prison 
A  calm-A  ni.ht  on  aeck-Lamlm,'  a   S.n  a  H  ^^^^^^^ 

Pictures  ana  Ceinuu  ry     *in- 

c„,  and  an  EnRli*  phy-cian  ro,le  on    °"  V^'^''  f^^.,„, 
,n«sio„  of  Sa„  Crmelo,  one  leaRUC  an    a  h       ™^  / 

from  Mo„.«ey.     The  road  Icadmg  to  «'»;;'"  j"^        „f, 

rLr;;lt  1=  t.t.  *e  ...va  of  .be  «ad. 
The  niiis,  nowc*c  ,  •  „  „f  eft  low  oak,  pme  and 

TV,o  trpps  were  a  species  ot  si>u,  low  uan,  , 
coarser.     The  trees  were  i   i  „  ^^Upr  snecies  of  grasses 

, .    I.       A  h\riA  nf  clover  and  some  other  species  ui  g 

teeming  fields  of  spring  on  tne  ^^^  ^^^^^^ 

"'xLtalirof  the  mission  U  a  *--?-    "r" 
dornVomThe  north-eastern  highland,,  accomp«..ed  b, 


•r  R  A  V  F.  I,  «      IN       Ml  ►. 


A  I.  I  ►       .(  N  I  A  « 


99 


,d-The  Surf-Bay  ot 
,_l1fstrleil  nnd  Sad— 
-Remrn  lo  MonHTey— 
cun  Tnr-To.n's  New 
i_Toin's  opinion  of  ihi 
3C«mooiM-i()n-Miin>l»— 
,  H„rbiira-Thc  Prlr<oll 
stains,  Tanks,  Church, 
ing  leave  of  ihem. 

iree  or  four  Ameri- 
on  horseback  to  the 
a  half  southwesterly 
ay  over  an  undulating 
grasses.     Its  general 
aken  lands  of  Illinois 
gravel  of  the  roads 
ioft,  low  oak,  pine  and 
her  species  of  grasses 
the  odor  of  that  vege- 
altar  of  nature!  The 
1  sides,  sending  up  into 
.ening  leaf  and  flower. 
r,  the  nimble  leaps  of 
rtlcd  deer,  the  half-clad 
ght,  mottled  the  view 

harming  one.    It  cornea 
ids,  accompanied  by  a 


«!par  bright  strtnra,  to  the  sea.  It  i.t  ten  miles  in  length,  two 
miles  wide  near  the  ocean,  and  narrower  ns  it  ri-se!*  among 
the  lofty  ridges.  Hio  Curinelo  winds  very  much  ;  and  in  ita 
benils  are  many  stately  groves,  between  which  lie  the  for- 
saken lit  Ids  ot  the  mi.vjion,  overgrown  with  wild  grass  and 
brush.  Not  entirely  toi-sak«'n,  for  here  and  there  is  found  an 
Indian  hut,  with  its  tiled  roof,  mud  walls  and  lloor,  tenanted, 
but  falling  to  decay.  The  inmates  are  the  sjiiritual  children 
of  the  old  Padns,  who  taught  them  rude  agriculture,  archi- 
tecture, and  the  iJcing  and  worship  of  flod.  Since  the  de- 
parture of  those  good  men,  the  fields  have  been  neglected, 
and  the  Indians  have  sunk  into  vice  and  degradation.  A  sad 
thing  is  it  to  see  the  furrow  of  civilisation  turned  back  ;  the 
thistle  Hsurping  the  place  of  the  wheat ;  rank  weeds  choking 
the  vineyard,  and  the  rose  trodden  in  the  dust !  But  so  it  is 
in  the  valley  of  San  Carmelo.  The  Indians  in  ditterent  sec- 
tions were  planting  small  plats  of  beans  and  maize.  A  mul« 
and  an  ox  yokeil  together  were  used  for  draught. 

We  rode  to  the  water-side  to  look  at  the  surf.  It  was  a 
glorious  sight  that  heaving  up  of  the  Great  Deep  on  the 
land  !  The  shore  was  bold  and  lined  with  huge  buried  reefs. 
On  these  the  swells,  walls  of  bending  water  ten  feet  in 
height,  dashed,  broke,  roared  and  died — a  sheet  of  quarrelling 
foam — over  the  beach  for  miles  around  the  bay.  And  as  each 
wave  retired,  that  beach  of  shells  reduced  to  dust  by  the 
battering  sta,  sent  up  its  countless  hues,  from  pearly  white  to 
the  richest  violet,  dancing  and  trembling  over  the  green  lawn 
on  which  we  stood.  This  bay  of  San  Carmelo  is  a  large 
open  bight,  so  filled  with  sunken  rocks  and  sand  bars,  and  so 
exposed  to  the  winds  from  the  south-west,  as  to  be  useless  for 
a  harbor.  But  it  is  a  wild  and  grand  thing  to  look  out  upon 
in  storm  or  calm.  On  the  south,  rude  rocks,  old  trees  and 
desert  hillocks  bound  it.  On  the  north  the  lofty  pines  crowd 
down  to  its  billows.  On  the  north-west  opens  the  valley  of 
the  missions.  Over  all  its  blue  waters  rave  the  surges,  if  the 
winds  be  up  ;  or  if  still,  in  come  the  great  swells,  alive  with 


jOO  »CF.~ES       IN       THE  ACIMC 

p..poise  and  seal,  and  bellow  and  die  on  the  shore  of  San 

"-'^The  mission  buildings  are  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
val  ev  near  the  sea.     They  stand  on  elevated  ground    -hi  h 
0  e-Lks  the  bay   and  .even  or  eight  miles  of  the  vale 
rhei  were  inhabited  by  a  family  of  half-breeds    who  kep 
he  keys  of  the  church.     The  edifices  are  budt  around  a 
'arelea  of  half  an  acre.     On  the  west,  sou  h  ar.d  ^^ 
skies  of  it,  are  the  Indian  houses  with  the.r  rumed  walls,  seal 
p:dtile;oofs,  clay  floors  and  open  unglazed  windows      0 
the  north  side  are  the  church,  the  cells  and  di...ng  hall  o    the 
Padres.     The  latter  is  about  forty  feet  by  twenty,  hghted  by 
!pen   paces  in  the  outer  wall,  grated  with  handsomely  turned 
loden  bars,  and  guarded  by  plank  shutters,  s-ngmg  ms^e^ 
At  the  west  end  of  this  room  is  a  small  opening  through 
thlh  the  food  was  passed  f- the  kitchen.     On  tl.no,H 
side  and  east  end  are  four  doors  opening  into  the  cells  ot 
he  frtrs.     Everything  appeared  forsaken  and  undesirable. 
aL  yet  I  could  not  forbear  a  degree  of  veneration  for  those 
lien  closets  of  devotion  ;  those  resUng-places  of  the  way- 
Ter  f  om  the  desert ;  those  temples  of  hospitality  and  prayer 
c^ted  by  that  band   of  excellent  and  darmg  men,  who 
rnded  the  Californian  missions,  and  engraved  on  the  heart  o 
Tat  remote  wilderness,  the  features  of  civilisation  and  th. 

"Xrl  wis 'an  outside  stairway  to  the  tower  of  the  church 
wl  a:cended  it  and  beheld  the  broken  hUls,  the  ja  es  ancl  the 
great  heaving  sea,  with  its  monsters  divmg  and  b  o-„g 
Ld  heard  it  sounding  loudly  far  and  near  We  saw  the 
uted  mission  of  San  Carmelo,  and  the  fo-k-  Indian^ 
strolling  over  its  grounds!  On  the  timbers  over  head  hung 
;t  rof  diffefe^  them  cracked  and  tone- 

Z  Formerly  one  of  these  rang  to  -H  to  ^^^^.^^^ 
rest-  and  the  otVers  to  the  various  services  of  the  Catholic 
fi  Dr.  Bale  informed  us.  such  was  the  regularity  of  these 
Lblishments  that  the  laboring  animals  stopped  m  the  road  o. 


L 


I  f  I  c 

on  the  shore  of  San 

the  north  side  of  the 
ated  ground,  which 
t  miles  of  the  vale, 
ilf-breeds,  who  kept 
are  built  around  a 
west,  south,  and  east 
leir  rmned  walls,  scal- 
Tlazed  windows.     On 
jnd  dining  hall  of  the 
by  twenty,  lighted  by 
ith  handsomely  turned 
liters,  swinging  inside, 
nail  opening  through 
fitchen.     On  the  north 
ling  into  the  cells  of 
aken  and  undesirable. 
)f  veneration  for  those 
ing-places  of  the  way- 
'  hospitality  and  prayer, 
and  daring  men,  who 
ngraved  on  the  heart  of 
of  civilisation  and  th« 

le  tower  of  the  church. 
I  hills,  the  vales  and  the 
:s  diving  and  blowing; 
nd  near.     We  saw  the 
id  the  forsaken  Indians 
mbers  over  head,  hung 
them  cracked  and  tone- 
to  meals,  to  work,  and 
services  of  the  Catholic 
as  the  regularity  of  these 
lals  stopped  in  the  road  ox 


y  *  A  V  F,  r.  >     I  \     r  ri  E     c  i  l  i  r  o  r  n  i  a  s 


101 


U 


ftirrow,  whenever  the  bells  called  the  Indian  to  his  dutitn 
But  prayers  are  no  longer  heard  in  San  Carraelo  ;  the  tower 
DO  lunger  commands  obedience  to  God ;  the  buildings  are 
crumbling  to  dust ;  the  rank  grass  is  crowding  its  courts ;  the 
low  moss  is  creeping  over  its  gaping  walls ;  and  the  ox  and 
mule  are  running  wild  on  its  hills. 

The  walls  of  the  church  are  of  stone  masonry ;  the  roof 
of  brick  tiles.  The  whole  structure  is  somewhat  lofty, 
and  looks  down  upon  the  surrounding  scenery,  like  an  old 
baronial  castle,  from  which  the  chase,  the  tournament,  and 
the  reign  of  beauty  have  departed.  An  oaken  arm-chair, 
Drown  and  marred  with  age,  stood  on  the  piazza,  proclaiming 
o  our  lady  of  Guadaloupe  and  a  group  of  saints  rudely 
sketched  upon  the  walls,  that  Carmelo  was  deserted  by  living 
men. 

My  respect  for  the  profession  of  "  glorious  uncertainties," 
will  not  permit  me  to  leave  this  valley  without  introducing  to 
..he  kind  regards  of  the  reader  a  brother  lawyer.  He  lived 
on  the  banks  of  the  Carmelo  in  a  little  mud  hut,  surroundea 
by  some  beautiful  fields  under  good  cultivation.  His  stock 
consisted  of  a  number  of  tame  cows,  a  few  goats,  uncounted 
flocks  of  domestic  fowls,  and  a  dozen  dogs.  When  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  distant,  the  dogs  opened  their  artillery  in  a 
running  fire  upon  us ;  the  cocks  flew  upon  the  fences  and  crow- 
ed terribly ;  the  pullets  cackled ;  and  altogether,  the  commotion 
surprised  our  horses  into  a  general  snort,  and  ourselves  into  a 
laugh,  prolonged  and  loud  as  our  lungs  could  sustain,  at  such 
a  welcome  to  the  residence  of  the  only  professional  lawyer  in 
the  Californias ! 

We  rode  up  briskly  in  the  midst  of  this  cackling,  crowing 
and  barking,  and  dismounted  before  the  door  of  a  tolerably 
comfortable  hut,  in  the  standing  presence  of  the  brown,  flat- 
nosed,  broad-cheeked,  ragged  Indian  Esquire.  His  head  was 
bare,  his  leathern  pants  full  of  holes  and  glazed  with  grease, 
his  blanket  hung  in  tatters.  His  wife  hobbled  out  ps  blind  as 
a  fire-dog,  and  decrepid  with  years  arnl  hard  labor.     One  or 


102 


SCENES      IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


two  other  Indians  stood  about  among  the  hens  and  duckSj 
grinning  and  squinting  at  us  in  much  wonder  and  humility ! 
Such  was  the  group  on  the  hen-dog-Indian  side  of  the 
scene.     Ourselves  occupied  the  other. 

We  stood  at  our  horses'  necks,  one  hand  on  the  rein,  ami 
awaited  something,  we  knew  not  what.  The  Esquire  rolled 
his  little  black  eyes  in  delight  to  see  us ;  put  one  hand  on  the 
hip,  and  stood  on  one  leg,  and  then  changed  into  an  opposite 
position ;  shaking  and  giggling  with  joy  meanwhile,  and  ap- 
parently not  knowing  where  to  begin  to  entertain  either  him- 
self or  us.  At  length,  Dr.  Bale  came  to  his  relief,  by  referring 
to  the  fact  that  he  owned  more  land  before  thf.  mission  was 
founded,  than  he  now  seemed  to  enjoy.  At  this  he  took  fire, 
and  went  into  a  dissertation  on  the  titles  of  the  Padres  and 
Indians;  the  substance  of  which,  I  learned  from  the  Doctor, 
"was,  that  the  Padres  had  taken  possession  of  the  valley  about 
forty  years  before,  had  taught  the  Indians  to  work  and  pray, 
had  given  a  portion  of  his  lands  to  other  Indians,  and  when 
civil  troubles  came,  had  killed  most  of  the  cattle  and  sold  the 
hides  and  tallow  to  ships,  for  hard  dollars,  and  with  bags  of 
these  dollars  left  the  country  and  the  Indians  who  had  earned 
them.  "  There,"  said  he,  pointing  to  his  blind  wife,  "  is  all 
they  have  left  me  of  my  wife ;  she  worked  hard  and  is  blind ; 
and  these  little  fields  are  all  they  have  left  me  of  my  broad 
lands." 

His  violent  gesticulation  and  tone  of  voice  led  me  to  the 
belief  that  he  was  tinctured  with,  mania.  The  poor  fellow 
and  his  wife  excited  our  commiseration  deeply,  and  I  cannot 
remember  them,  even  now,  without  reviving  the  pity  I  felt  for 
the  "  Indian  lawyer"  i»nd  his  poor  blind  wife,  tottering  about 
her  lowly  hut. 

From  these  premises  we  turned  rein  for  Monterey.  Our 
Californian  steeds  laid  hoof  to  the  rough  road  in  a  manner  wor- 
thy their  Arabian  sires.  Speed,  speed  !  Backward  the  gravel 
flew  from  their  willing  feet,  as  we  mounted  the  heights. 
Gully  and  rock  were  leaped  with  a  joyful  neigh !     We  reached 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CA,.FOR>.  lA 


103 


r  ic. 

hens  and  duckSj 
Aer  and  humility ! 
Jian  side  of  the 

on  the  rein,  and 
rhe  Esquire  rolled 
it  one  hand  on  the 
d  into  an  opposite 
leanwhile,  and  ap- 
tertain  either  him- 
I  relief,  by  vefernng 
re  thr.  mission  was 
\t  this  he  took  fire, 
of  the  Padres  and 
i  from  the  Doctor, 
of  the  valley  about 
to  work  and  pray, 
Indians,  and  when 
3  cattle  and  sold  the 
s,  and  with  bags  of 
lans  who  had  earned 
,  blind  wife,  "  is  all 
;d  hard  and  is  blind  ; 
eft  me  of  my  broad 

voice  led  me  to  the 
a.    The  poor  fellow 

deeply,  and  I  cannot 
nng  the  pity  I  felt  for 

wife,  tottering  about 

for  Monterey.  Our 
road  in  a  manner  wor- 
!  Backward  the  gravel 

mounted  the  heights, 
J  neigh !     We  reached 


the  highland  when  the  sun  was  a  hand's  breadth  above  the 
ocean.  His  burning  farewell  lay  on  the  verdant  hill-tops. 
Onward !  speed  onward !  The  Bay  is  before  us ;  its  crested 
billows  are  gilded,  like  frettetl  gold,  with  rays  from  the  uppe. 
rim  of  the  sinking  sun ! 

On  the  twenty-eighth  of  April  the  Don  Quixote  had  com- 
pleted her  business  with  P.  I.  Farnham  &  Co.'s  ship  Alciope, 
and  was  ready  for  sea.  Captain  Paty  had  laid  in  a  generous 
supply  of  fresh  beef,  vegitHhles,  and  other  comforts  for  his 
passengers ;  the  foreign  residents  had  presented  the  American 
with  many  little  tokens  of  regard,  in  the  form  of  fruits,  wines, 
&,c.,  to  make  the  voyage  comfortable. 

Eleven  o'clock,  A.  M.,  we  took  leave  of  our  countrymen, 
and  others  of  the  Saxon  blood,  on  the  rock  where  the  prison- 
ers' chains  had  lately  clanked,  and  shoved  off' for  the  ship. 

One  of  the  unpleasant  circumstances  attending  journeys  m 
wild  and  dangerous  countries,  is,  the  parting  from  persons  of 
kindred  feelings  with  whom  we  have  wept  or  rejoiced.  Many 
who  had  suffered  in  Monterey  were  still  there.     They  had  es- 
caped an  apparently  certain  doom,  and  1  had  felt  keenly  every 
slmde  which  progressive  events  cast  on  their  fate,  or  lifted  from 
their  hopes  of  being  saved  from  the  death  of  felons.  They  were 
saved !     They  were  glad  !     But  the  fear  of  returning  tyranny 
still  hung  over  them.     The  same  malignity  held  the  reins  of 
power ;  and  the  dungeon  and  bullet  were  under  the  control  of 
the  same  demons.     It  was  hard  parting  with  those  brave 
and  abused  men.     The  throats  of  villains  could  be  made  to 
bleed !     The  walls  of  justice  and  mercy  could  be  reared 
around  the  social  state  in  California.    The  acting  government 
could  have  raised  no  force  to  prevent  it.     Britons  and  Ameri- 
cans could  have  done  it;  and  the  halter  been  made  to  claim 
its  own.     But  that  prison-ship  and  my  hearth  called  me. 

"  On  board !"  "  On  board  !"  Our  boat  lies  under  the  le« 
of  the  good  barque  Don  Quixote ;  the  ropes  of  the  gangway 
arje  seized ;  and  we  stand  on  deck.  "  Man  the  windlass;* 
«  heave  the  anchor,  cheerily,  boys,"  is  ordered  and  done. 


«r 


104 


SCENES       IN 


■1'  H  E       P  A  r  1  '  I  C  . 


This  is  always  a  Cheering  time  oa  shii.-board.  Henve 
ahoy  ;»  and  the  old  salt's  eye  brightens,  h.s  step  qvuckens  and 
his  V  ice  rings  gladly,  as  link  after  link  of  the  P-J^-s  caWe 
tumbles  aboard:  till  the  flukes  of  the  anchor  lie  h.ga  on  the 
bows,  and  the  ship  is  given  to  her  helm  and  the  breeze 

The  wind,  the  sea,  and  good  planks  between  bm  and  the 
bottom,  and  the  stars  and   st.ipes   at  the  n^-"'  "^^^^^^ 
substantial  comforts  of  an  American  tar     Supphe    w.t    th  s 
and  a  clear  sweep  from  the  headlands,  he  >.nll  lea^e  the 
hore  without  a  fe'eling  that  it  will  ever  be  his  w.hto  re  ur. 
Indeed,  the  real  sailor,  he  who  has  -und  every  yarn^    hs 
happy  hours  around  the  windlass,  desp.es  the  land.     We  had 
in  the  Don  Quixote  an  example  of  this  kmd.     Hewasatall, 
Itk-d  YaJ^kee.  from  the  State  of  Maine ;  w.th  a  hand  hke 
a  grappling-iron,  hung  to  a  mass  of  shoulder  and  chest  tha 
Juld  hav!  been  formidable  among  buffalo.     H.s  deck  name 
was  Tom;  to  which  the  adjeative  /o«g,  was  --^-^  P^^ 
fixed,  as  he  explained  it,  «  in  order  to  add  a  fathom  to  its 

"men  sixteen  years  of  age,  he  had  heard  that  Maine  was 
noted  far  abroad  for  its  long  mortals  and  heavy  fists ;  and 
d    amed  that  he  was  not  so  deficient  in  these  quaht.es  a^  to 
tercludedfromthedistinctionw^nughta^^^^^^^^ 
He  therefore  determined  to  avail  himself  of  the  hrst  lavora 
hllccin  for  reapingthe  ^-est  of  that  notor.e^  to  wh^ 
he  seemed  to  be  W     Nor  did  ^-f  ^  ^^^^^^^^ 
of  time  for  such  an  opportun-.ty.    .His  f^^*^^"^  3"  ^ 

one  evening  with  a  new  axe,  purchased  for  Toms  especial 
use,  in  the  lumber  forest.     It  was  the  mght  previous  o     the 
General  Training-day,"  at  Portland;  and  he  propo-d,      the 
morrow  would  be  a  leisure  day,  that  Tom  should  test  the 
Te     7his  axe,  in  cutting  away  a  dry  hemlock  tree  which 
halfallenacrossthepublicroad.     A  mere  suggestion  from  the 
father  was  the  law  of  his  household.    Tom,  therefore,  ate  h.s 
ttkfast,  next  morning,  with  becoming  f^-^:"^^^:' 
about  seven  o'clock  struck  his  new  axe  into  the  dry  hemlock 


IC. 

board.     "  Henve 
step  quickens,  and 
e  pondero'is  cable 
)r  lie  higli  on  the 
[  the  breeze, 
ween  him  and  the 
e  mizen,  are  the 
lupplied  with  these 
:\c  will  leave  the 

his  wish  to  return. 

every  yarn  of  his 
the  land.  We  had 
id.  He  was  a  tall, 
;;  with  a  hand  like 
ler  and  chest  that 
0.  His  deck  name 
vas  sometimes  pre- 
[d  a  fathom  to  its 

ird  that  Maine  was 
nd  heavy  fists  ;  and 
these  qualities  as  to 
ight  arise  from  them, 
f  of  the  first  favora- 
at  notoriety  to  which 
an  unpleasant  length 
ather  returned  home 
[1  for  Tom's  especial 
ght  previous  to  "  the 
id  he  proposed,  as  the 
Tom  should  test  the 
y  hemlock  tree  which 
re  suggestion  from  the 
rom,  therefore,  ate  his 
[T  submissiveness,  and 
!  into  the  dry  hemlock 


Long  Tom  Sassafras.—?-  105. 


TRAVELS     IN     THR     CALIFORNTAS. 


105 


It  rose,  fell,  and  clinketl  in  tlu>  hard  knots  ;  and  occasionally 
sinkinjr  into  the  wood  a  doptli  Knfliciont  to  hold  without  hia 
aid,  lol't  him  at  libei  ty  to  chew  his  tobacco,  and  think  of  his  cou- 
ditiun. 

The  neighboring  lads  came  riding  past.  They  jeered  him 
for  his  want  of  spirit,  once,  again,  a  third  time,  and  onward, 
until  Tom  began  to  think  that  his  situation  was  not  quite  so 
agret-alde  as  it  would  be,  if  he,  also,  with  a  pistareen  in  his 
pocket,  were  qn  his  way  to  the  gingerbread  carts  of  the  pa- 
rade ground.  To  be  kept  at  work  on  General  Training-day, 
was  at  war  with  all  precedent;  that  was  a  holy  day  for 
young  people  throughout  all  the  land  of  johnny-cakes.  A 
little  reflection,  therefore,  convinced  him  that  his  father's  re- 
quirement was  somewhat  unkind  ;  a  little  more  thought  and 
considerable  love  of  gingerbread,  demonstrated  that  chopping 
wochI  on  that  day  was  not  to  be  done  by  Long  Tom  Sassa- 
fras ;  and  depositing  his  axe  in  the  corn-house,  he  went  to 
the  General  Training,  received  a  flogging  from  his  father  in 
the  presence  of  an  auctioneer  of  Yankee  Notions,  shipped  on 
board  a  lumber  sloop  bound  for  Boston,  and  from  that  time 
became  a  Salt. 

Tom  considered  the  land  well  nigh  a  ntiisance.  It  had  a 
few  points  of  value  It  was  useful  as  a  hiding-place  from  a 
storm  ;  useful  as  a  hospital  for  "  a  fresh"  to  cure  the  scurvy ; 
as  a  convenient  substitute  for  a  "  log"  to  show  when  the 
voyage  is  ended  ;  as  a  lumber  yard  for  the  wherewithal  to 
ouild  keels ;  and  as  a  place  in  which  small  fish  may  rendez- 
rous.  But  the  sea  was  a  greater  part  of  the  Globe;  the 
home  of  freemen  ;  where  they  have  a  plenty  of  sound  air  to 
breathe,  and  nothing  but  the  will  of  Heaven  to  curtail  their 
movements.  "  On  the  land  it  is  otherwise.  One's  tarpaulin 
is  knocked  off  at  every  second  step  on  their  brick-decked 
gangways ;  every  lubber  in  straps  and  tights  who  sees  fit  to 
pass  before  you  can  up  helm,  runs  into  you,  carries  away  your 

bowsprit,  and  d ns  your  eyes  because  you  could  not  luff"  into 

the  walls  of  a  building  to  give  him  lee-way.     And  then  the 


106 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC 


r 


land  is  all  mud  and  reefs ;  everything  upon  it  is  dirty ;  the 
Ladies,  God  knows  I  love  ti»e  Ladies  and  pity  them,  can't 
keep  themselves  tidy.     I've  seen  many  a  brace  of  them  that 
required  a  fortnight's  holy-stoning  to  get  down  to  their  natu- 
ral  color.     They  are  obliged  to  paint  themselves  to  cover  up 
the  dirt  and  keep   from  looking  weather-beaten.     1  never 
knew  a  sensible  sailor  that  wasn't  glad  to  leave  the  land  for 
the  glorious  old  sea.     Their  ideas,  those  land  lubbers,  ab.)ut 
what  is  comfortable  and  beautiful,  are  not  worth  a  ball  of 
spunyarn.     They  talk  to  you  about  the  dangers  of  the  sea, 
,ust  as  if  there  was  no  lee  coast  to  run  one's  head  and  toes 
against  on  the  land  ;  about  the  shady  groves  on  a  May-day, 
just  as  if  there  were  no  May-day  shade  under  the  brave  old 
oanvassof  Neptune;  and  about  the  purling  brooks  and  the 
music  of  birds,  just  as  if  there  were  neither  water  at  sea,  nor 
any  albatross  to  sail  and  scream  in  the  sun,  nor  happy  petrels 
to  sing  in  the  storm.     And  about  being  buried  in  the  sea! 
This  they  think  is  a  dreadful  thing !    They  thrust  their  eyes 
half  out  of  their  heads  when  you  tell  them  it  is  better  to  be 
eaten  clean  up  by  a  decent  shark,  than  to  be  stuffed  away  a 
few  feet  under  ground  among  toads  and  worms  and  other 
varmints!    And  if  you  tell  them  that  when  a  fellow  dies  at 
sea,  they  sew  him  up  in  a  strong  bit  of  canvas,  and  hang  a 
weight  to  his  feet,  read  prayers  over  him   and   drop  hin. 
solemnly  into  the  ocean,  and  he  goes  down  into  the  clear  cleaP 
water,  two  or  three  miles  perhaps,  and  there  sleeps  higt 
above  the  bottom,  high  above  dirt  and  worms,  the  lubber* 
think  he  is  out  of  the  latitude  of  the  resurrection  and  Heaven 
and  aU.    I  am  for  the  sea.     I  would  not  mind  shippmg  on 
the  quarter-deck  a  voyage  or  two,  to  see  how  it  would  seem 
to  whistle  the  boys  into  the  top-gallant  stays  in  a  dead  north- 
easter.    But  I  shoidd  want  to  be  before  the  mast.    That's 
the  home  for  me,  boys." 

«  Haul  taut  the  weather  main  brace  there" ! 
«  Aye,  aye,  sir ;"  and  away  skipped  our  Maine  boy  to  hw 
duty. 


r  ic. 

^  it  is  dirty;  the 
pity  them,  can't 
race  ot"  them  that 
own  to  their  natu- 
iselves  to  cover  up 
r-beaten.     1  never 
leave  the  land  for 
and  lubbers,  about 
t  worth  a  ball  of 
angers  of  the  sea, 
)ne's  head  and  toes 
)ves  on  a  May-day, 
under  the  brave  old 
inf  brooks  and  the 
er  water  at  sea,  nor 
1,  nor  happy  petrels 
buried  in  the  sea! 
ey  thrust  their  eyes 
em  it  is  better  to  be 
to  be  stuffed  away  a 
d  worms  and  other 
len  a  fellow  dies  at 
canvas,  and  hang  a 
him   and   drop  hicB 
■n  into  the  clear  clear 
id  there  sleeps  higk 
worms,  the  lubber? 
irrection  and  Heaven 
jt  mind  shipping  on 
!  how  it  would  seem 
itays  in  a  dead  north- 
re  the  mast.    That's 

here" ! 

our  Maine  boy  to  lus 


TRAVELB      IN       TUB      CALIFORNIaB 


lOT 


We  bai  a  fine  uieeze  from  the  time  we  weighed,  till  twelve 
o'clock  on  tttc  twenty-ninth,  when  the  wind  died  gradually 
away  to  a  calm.     Durint;;  the  night  we  lay  oil"  Punto  Con- 
fepcion  ;  a  rough  ragged  point  of  land  forty  miles  north-west 
of  Santa  Barbara.     On  the  thirtieth,  a  light  breeze  bore  as 
early  m  the  morning  past  San  Miguel.     This  is  an  island, 
about  fifteen  miles  from  the  coast.     It  is  ten  miles  in  circuin- 
ferente,  with  a  rocky,  barren  and  dry  surface,  marked  here  and 
there  with  a  few  fruitful  spots  and  streams  of  water.     At 
nine  o'clock  we  were  off  Santa  Rosa ;  an  island  about  the 
same  distance  from  the  land,  twenty  miles  in  circumference, 
piled  with  lofty  barren  hills,  interspersed  with  a  few  forests 
and   fertile  districts.     Next  came  Santa  Cruz ;   an  oblong 
island  forty  miles  in  circumference,  with  some  woodlands  and 
fruitful   vales.      Farther  off  shore   and  southward,   are  the 
islands  of  Santa  Barbara,  San  Nicholas  and  San  Clemente. 
They  lie  in  a  line  running  south-east  and  north-west,  and 
form  the  outer  wall  of  the  roadstead,  called  the  Canal  de 
Senta  Barbara.     These   islanrw  have  much  high  land,  com- 
posed of  dark  shining  rocks,  apparently  of  volcanic  origin. 
They  are  partially  covered  with  trees,  but  a  greater  portion 
of  their  surface  is  barren  sands  and  rocks.     They  are  densely 
populated  with  goats. 

Near  night  a  calm  came  on,  and  our  sails,  after  flapping 
awhile,  hung  lifeless  upon  the  spars.  This  was  a  very  annoy- 
ing circumstance.  All  on  board  felt  extremely  anxious  to  be 
m  Santa  Barbara  that  night  lest  the  prison-ship  should  leave 
before  we  arrived.  About  twelve  o'clock,  however,  a  slight 
breeze  sprang  up,  which  bore  us  along  two  knots  the 
hour.  The  air  was  so  bland  on  deck  that  I  chose  a  berth 
among  some  loose  sails  in  the  long  boat,  in  preference  to  the 
heated  cabin.  It  was  a  pure  night.  No  vapor?  obscured  the 
sky.  No  harsh  win;!s  disturbed  the  waters.  Every  livinj( 
thing  seemed  reposing  and  smiling  in  its  dreams  of  joy.  Thu 
birds  on  the  land  and  water  should  be  excepted.    They  were 


108 


BCENES       IN       THE       FACIFir 


twittering  softly  one  to  another,  coursing  through  the  air  and 
marshalling  and  gabbling  among  the  waves,  as  if  keeping 
▼igil  over  the  slumbers  of  Nature  ! 

The  coast  from  Monterey  to  the  Canal  de  Santa  Barbara  u 
broken  into  elevated  hills,  fringed  with  forests  of  pine  and  oak, 
and  covered  with  the  wild  grasses  From  these  flow  many 
valuable  little  streams,  which  gurgle  and  plash  down  deep 
and  verdant  ravines  to  the  sea.  It  is  a  beautiful  wilderness ; 
a  country  for  the  wild  horse,  the  mighty  grisly  bear,  the  un- 
domesticated  cattle  of  a  thousand  hills ;  a  blithe  domain  for 
the  human  race,  when  true  and  valiant  men  shall  govern  it. 

The  first  sound  that  fell  upon  any  ear  on  the  first  day  of 
May,  was  the  rippling  of  the  water  at  the  ship's  side.  She 
was  moving  slowly  down  the  Canal  de  Santa  Barbara.  At 
nine  o'clock  we  cast  anchor  before  the  town,  lowered  the 
boat  and  shot  away  to  the  beach.  The  prison-ship  was  lying 
at  anchor  in  the  roadstead  !  Our  countrymen  were  incarce- 
rated at  the  mission !  We  might  be  of  some  service  to  them ; 
and  that  expectation  gave  us  all  infinite  pleasure,  in  being 
again  in  their  neighborhood. 

Santa  Barbara  is  situated  on  an  inclined  plane,  which  rises 
(gradually  from  the  sea  i^ide  to  a  range  of  picturesque  high- 
lands, three  and  a  half  miles  from  the  sea.  The  town  itself  is 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  the  landing.  The  houses  are 
chiefly  built  in  the  Spanish  mode,  adobie  walls,  and  roofs  of  tile. 
These  tiles  are  made  of  clay,  fashioned  into  half  cylinders, 
and  burned  like  brick.  In  using  them,  the  first  layer  i^  placed 
hollow  side  up  ;  the  second  invereely,  so  as  to  lock  over  the 
first  Their  ends  overlap  each  other  as  common  shingles  do. 
This  roofing  serves  very  well  in  dry  weather.  But  when  the 
driving  southwesters  of  the  winter  season  come  on,  it  afibrds 
a  poor  shelter.  Very  few  of  the  houses  have  glass  windows. 
Open  spaces  in  the  walls,  protected  with  bars  of  wood,  and 
olank  shutters,  serve  instead.  Mr.  A.  B.  Thompson,  a  wealthy 
and  hospitable  American  merchant,  has  erected  a  residencs 


I  r. 


TllAVKI.  S       IN       T  II  K       r  A  I.      »  0  R  N  I  .\  9  , 


109 


rough  the  air  and 
M,  as  if  keeping 

Santa  Barbara  u 
ta  of  pine  and  oak, 
n  these  flow  many 
plash  down  deep 
autilul  wilderness ; 
[risly  bear,  the  un- 
bliihe  domain  for 
n  shall  govern  it. 
on  the  first  day  of 
le  ship's  side.     She 
anta  Barbara.     At 
town,  lowered  the 
•ison-ship  was  lying 
^men  were  incarce- 
rae  service  to  Ihem ; 
e  pleasure,  in  being 

sd  plane,  which  rises 
)f  picturesque  high- 
The  town  itself  is 
tig.  The  houses  are 
valls,and  roofs  of  tile. 

into  half  cylinders, 
he  first  layer  if  placed 
o  as  to  lock  over  the 

common  shingles  do. 
ather.  But  when  the 
on  come  on,  it  affords 
;s  have  glass  windows, 
ith  bars  of  wood,  and 
(.Thompson,  a  wealthy 
las  erected  a  residenc* 


in  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  bears  very  striking  testin;o- 
ny  to  his  being  a  civilizeil  man. 

There  is  an  old  Catholic  mission,  one  mile  and  \huf. 
quarters  above  the  town,  called  Kl  Mission  de  Sanfa  Barbar.'. 
The  church  itself  is  a  stone  edifice,  with  two  towers  on  the 
end  towards  the  town,  and  a  high  gable  between  them.  The 
friars  complimented  Father  Time,  by  painting  on  the  latter 
something  in  the  shape  of  a  clock  dial.  In  the  towers  are 
hung  a  number  of  rich  toned  bells,  brought  from  old  Spain 
nearly  a  hundred  years  ago.  The  roof  is  covered  with  burnt 
clay  tiles,  laid  in  cement.  The  residence  of  the  Padres,  also 
built  of  stone,  forms  a  wing  with  the  church  towards  the  sea. 
The  prisons  form  another,  towards  the  highlands.  Hard  by 
are  clusters  of  Indian  huts,  constructed  of  adobiea  and  tile, 
standing  in  rows,  with  streets  between. 

The  old  Padres  seem  to  have  united  with  their  missionary 
zeal  a  strong  sense  of  comfort  and  taste.     They  laid  off  a 
beautiful  garden,  a  few  rods  from  the  church,  surrounded  it  with 
a  high  substantial  fence  of  stone  laid  in  Roman  cement,  and 
planted   it  with   limes,  almonds,  apricots,  peaches,  apples, 
pears,  quinces,  &c.,  which  are  now  annually  yielding  their 
several  fruits  in  abumlance.     Before  the  church  they  erected 
a  series  of  concentric  urn  fountains,  ten  feet  in  height,  from 
the  top  of  which  the  pure  liquid  bursts,  and  falls  from  one  to 
another  till  it  reaches  a  large  pool  at  the  base  ;  from  this  it 
is  led  off  a  short  distance  to  the  statue  of  a  grisly  bear,  from 
whose  mouth  it  is  ejected  into  a  reservoir  of  solid  masonry, 
six  feet  wide  and  seventy  long.     From  the  pool  at  the  base 
of  the  urn  fountains  water  is  taken  for  drinking  and  household 
use.    The  long    reservoir  is  the  theatre   of   the   battling, 
plashing,  laughing  and  scolding  of  the  washing-day      Around 
these  fountains  are  solid,  cemented  stone  pavements,  and  ducts 
to  carry  off  the  surplus  water.     Nothing  of  the  kind  can  be  in 
better  taste,  more  substantial,  or  useful. 

Above  the  church  and  its  cloisters,  they  brought  the  wa» 


no 


»r  r.N  r.n    iw     xnr     r  a  r  i  r  i  r 


around  the  brow  of  a  green  hill,  in  an  open  stone  nqueduct, 
a  rapid,  noisy  rivulet,  to  a  scjuare  reservoir  of  beautiful  ma- 
sonry. Below,  and  adjoining  this,  are  the  ruins  of  the  Pa- 
dres' grist-mill.  Nothing  is  left  of  its  interior  strurt  ire,  but 
the  large  oaken  ridgepole.  Near  the  atiueduct  wl  ch  car. 
ries  the  water  into  the  reservoir  of  the  mills,  stand:>  a  small 
stone  edifice  ten  feet  in  length  by  six  in  width.  This  is 
the  bath.  Over  the  door,  outside,  is  the  representation  of  a 
lion's  head,  from  which  pours  a  beautiful  jet  of  water.  This 
little  structure  is  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  A  cross  sur- 
mounts it,  as,  indec<l,  it  docs  everything  used  by  the  Catholic 
missionaries  of  these  wilderness  regions.  Below  the  ruins  of 
the  grist-mill  is  another  tank  one  hundred  and  twenty-feet 
w]uare,  by  twenty  deep,  constructed  like  the  one  above.  In 
this  was  collected  water  for  supplying  the  fountains,  irrigating 
the  grounds  below,  and  for  the  propulsion  of  diiferent  kinds 
of  machinery.  Below  the  mission  was  the  tan-yard,  to  which 
the  water  was  carried  in  an  a({ueduct,  built  on  the  top  of  a 
stone  wall,  from  four  to  six  feet  high.  Here  was  manufac- 
tured the  leather  used  in  making  harnesses,  saddles,  bridles, 
and  Indian  clothing.  They  cultivatt  d  large  tracts  of  land  with 
maize,  wheat,  oats,  peas,  potatoes,  beans,  and  grapes.  Their 
old  vineyards  still  cover  the  hill-sides.  When  the  mission 
was  at  the  height  of  its  prosperity,  there  were  several  hun- 
dred Indians  laboring  in  its  fields,  and  many  thousands  of  cat- 
tle and  horses  grazing  in  its  pastures.  But  its  splendor  has 
departed,  and  with  it  its  usefulness.  The  Indians  who  were 
made  comfortable  on  these  premises,  are  now  squalid  and  mise- 
rable. The  fields  are  a  waste!  Nothing  but  the  church 
retains  its  ancient  appearance.  We  will  enter  and  describe 
its  interior.  It  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  long  by  sixty  in 
width.  Its  walls  are  eight  feet  in  thickness.  The  height  of 
the  nave  is  forty  feet.  On  the  wall,  to  the  right,  hangs  a 
picture  representing  a  king  and  a  monk  up  to  their  middle  in 
the  flames  of  purgatory     Their  posture  is  that  of  prayer  and 


r 


I  r 


T  R  A  V  B  I,  «       I  ^ 


y.     r  A  I.  I  y  <)  II  ,N  I  A  N 


111 


n  stone  aqueduct, 

of  beautiful  ma- 
ruius  of  the  Pa- 
ior  struc'  ire,  but 
Riluct  wl  ch  ear- 
ns, stands  a  small 
width.    Th'if.  i« 
^presentation  of  a 
t;t  of  water.     This 
tion.     A  cross  sur- 
L«d  by  the  Catholic 
_  jlow  the  ruins  of 
ed  and  twenty-feet 
one  above.    In 

iintains,  irrigating 
of  ditfereut  kinds 

tan-yard,  to  which 
lilt  on  the  top  of  a 
Here  was  manufac- 
ses,  saddles,  bridles, 
re  tracts  of  land  with 
'and  grapes.     Their 

When  the  mission 
e  were  several  hun- 
any  thousands  of  cat- 
But  its  splendor  has 
le  Indians  who  were 
now  squalid  and  mise- 
hing  but  the  church 
11  enter  and  describe 
jr  feet  long  by  sixty  in 
:ness.    The  height  of 
to  the  right,  hangs  a 
ic  up  to  their  middle  in 
re  is  that  of  prayer  and 


penitence  ;  but  their  faces  do  not   indiiatr  any  derided  cm- 
seiousness  of  the  blisliring   foolliolil  on   wliii  li   ihi-y  stand. 
On  tlie  contrary,  llu'y  wear  r.itlier  the  iiuiit  aspect  of  peisons 
who  love  their  ease,  and  have  an  indolent  kind  of  pleasure  in 
the  scenes  around  them.     On  llu;  other  side,  near  tlie  door  of 
the  confessional,  is  a  picture  of  Heil.     The  iJevil  and  his  staff 
are  represented  in  active  service.      The  (lames  of  his  furnace 
are  curling  around  his   victims,  with  a  broad  red  glare,  that 
would   have  JriTen  Titian   to  madness.     The  old  Monarch 
himself  appears  hotly  engaged  in  wrapping  serpents  of  fire 
arounil  a  beuutil'ul  fenjale  ligme,  and  liis  subalterns,  with  flam- 
ing tridents,  are  casting  torrn'MiLs  on  otliers,  wliose  sins  are 
worthy   of  less  honorable    notice.     Immediately  before  the 
aUar  is  a  trap-door,  opening  into  the  vaults,  where  are  buried 
tlie  missionary  Padres.     Over  the  altar  are  many  rich  images 
of  the  saints.     Among   them  w    that  of  San  Francisco,  the 
patron  of  the  missions  of  Upper  Calil'ornia.     Three  silver 
candlesticks,  six  feet  high,  and  a  silver  crucifix  of  the  same 
height,  with  a  golden  image  of  the  Saviour  suspended  on  it, 
stand  within  the  chancel.     To  the  left  of  the  altar  is  the  sa- 
cristy, or  priest's  dressing-room.      It  is  eighteen  feet  square, 
splendidly  carpeted,  and  furnished  with  a  wardrobe,  chairs, 
mirrors,  tables,  ottoman,  &c. 

In  an  adjoining  room  of  the  same  size  are  kept  the  para- 
phernalia of  worship.  Among  these  are  a  receptacle  of  the 
host,  of  massive  gold  in  pyramidal  form,  anil  weighing  at 
least  ten  pounds  avoirdupois,  and  a  convex  lens  set  in  a  block 
of  gold,  weighing  a  number  of  pounds,  through  which,  on  cer- 
tain occasions,  the  light  is  thrown  so  as  to  give  the  appearance 
of  an  eye  of  consuming  fire. 

A  door  in  the  eastern  wall  of  the  church  leads  from  the 
foot  of  the  chancel  to  the  cemetery.  It  is  a  small  piece  of 
ground  enclosed  by  a  high  wall,  and  consecrated  to  the  burial 
of  those  Indians  who  die  in  the  faith  of  the  Catholic  Church. 
It  is  curiously  arranged.     Walls  of  solid  masonry,  six  feet 


Hi 


S  (■  K  N  K  S       IN       T  II  K       V  A  C  I  H  C 


r 


apart,  are  sunk  six  feet  in  depth,  ami  to  a  level  with  the  sur- 
face. Between  thase  the  dead  are  buried  in  such  manner  that 
their  feet  touch  one  wall  ami  their  heads  the  other.  These 
grounds  have  been  long  si<ice  filled.  In  order,  however,  that 
no  Christian  Indian  may  be  buried  in  a  less  holy  place,  the 
bones,  after  the  fl'.'sh  has  decr-'ed,  are  exhumed  and  deposited 
in  a  little  building  on  one  corner  of  the  premises.  I  entered 
this.  Three  or  four  cart-loads  of  skulls,  ribs,  spines,  leg-bones, 
arm-bones  &c.,  lay  in  one  corner.  Beside  them  stood  two 
hand-hearses  with  a  small  cross  attached  to  each.  About  the 
walls  hung  the  raouhl  of  death  ! 

On  the  first  of  May  the  American  made  application  ior 
permission  to  see  the  j)risoners,  and  was  refused.  He  had 
heard  that  they  were  in  want  of  food,  and  proposed  to  supply 
them ;  but  was  forbidden  by  .Jose  Castro,  the  officer  in  charge. 
The  prison-ship  had  arrived  at  Santa  Barbara  on  the  twenty- 
fifth  of  April,  and  landed  forty-one  of  the  prisoners.  Four 
others  were  retained  on  board  lo  M'ork.  These  forty-one  men, 
during  the  whole  passage  from  Monterey,  had  been  chained  to 
long  bars  of  iron  passing  transversely  across  the  hold  of  the 
ship.  They  were  not  permitted  to  go  on  deck,  nor  even  to 
stand  on  their  feet.  A  bucket  was  occasionally  passed  about 
for  particular  purposes,  but  so  seldom  as  to  be  of  little  use. 
They  were  furnished  with  a  mere  morsel  of  food,  and  tliat  of 
the  worst  quality.  Of  water,  they  had  scarcely  enough  to 
prevent  death  from  thii-st ;  and  so  small  and  close  was  the 
place  in  which  they  were  chained  fhat  it  was  not  uncommon 
for  the  more  debilitated  to  famt  and  lie  some  time  in  a  lifeless 
state.  When  they  landed,  many  of  them  had  become  so 
weak  that  they  could  not  get  out  of  the  boat  without  aid. 
Their  companions  in  chains  assisted  them,  although  threaten- 
ed with  instant  death  if  they  did  so.  After  being  set  ashore, 
they  were  m?rched  in  the  midst  of  drawn  swords  and  fixed 
bayonets,  dragging  their  chains  around  bleeding  limbs,  one 
mile  and  three-quarters,  to  the  mission  of  Santa  Barbara ! 


TUAVEI.S       IN       Tin:       CAHFOUNiAS 


113 


vel  with  the  sur- 
such  manner  that 
he  other.     These 
ler,  however,  that 
iS  holy  place,  the 
Tied  and  deposited 
■raises.     1  entered 
,  spines,  leg-bones, 
le  them  stood  two 
each.     About  the 

de  application  ior 
refused.     He  had 
proposed  to  supply 
le  oilicer  in  charge. 
)ara  on  the  twenty- 
le  prisoners.     Four 
"hese  forty-one  men, 
had  been  chained  to 
OSS  the  hold  of  the 
1  deck,  nor  even  to 
onally  passed  about 
to  be  of  little  use. 
of  food,  and  that  of 
I  scarcely  enough  to 
1  and  close  was  the 
it  was  not  uncommon 
lome  time  in  a  lifeless 
hem  had  become  so 
the  boat  without  aid. 
m,  although  threaten- 
Lfter  being  set  ashore, 
iwn  swords  and  fixed 
d  bleeding  limbs,  one 
n  of  Santa  Barbara! 


Here  they  were  put  into  a  single  room  of  the  mission  prisons, 
without  floor  or  means  of  ventilation.  The  bottom  of  the 
cell  was  soft  mud !  In  this  damp  dungeon,  without  food  or 
water,  these  poor  fellows  remained  two  days  and  nights . 
They  had  not  even  straw  on  which  to  sleep ! 

At  the  end  of  this  time  it  coming  to  the  ears  of  the  Friar  m 
charge  of  the  mission,  that  one  of  them  was  dying  of  hunger 
and  thirst,  he  repaired  to  the  prison  and  inquired  of  Pinto,  the 
corporal  of  the  guard,  if  such  were  the  fact !     The  miniature 
monster  answered,  that  he  did  not  know.     The  Friar  replied, 
«  are  you  an  officer  and  a  Catholic,  and  do  not  know  the  state 
of  your  prisoners!     You,  sir,  are  an  officer  of  to-day,  and 
should  not   be  one   to-morrow."     The   good  man   entered 
the   cell;  found  one  of  the  Englishmen  speechless ;  admin- 
istered baptism,  and  removed  him  to  the  house  of  a  kind 
family,  where  I  found  him  on  my  arrival ;  still  speechless  and 
incapable  of  motion.     The  Friar  extended  his  kindness  to  the 
other   prisoners.     He  ordered   Castro  to  furnish  them  food 
and  water.     But  the  villain,  evading  so  far  as  he  was  abie, 
gave  them  barely  enough  of  each  to  tantalize  them,  until  the 
arrival  of  the  American   in  the   Don  Quixote;  when  that 
fleet,  laying  off  the  coast,  commanded  by  such  a  man,  charm- 
ed his  benevolence  and  mercy  into  activity.     From  the  first 
of  May,  therefore,  they  had  food  and  water,  and  were  per- 
mitt-ed  to  take  the  air  and  bathe  daily. 

On  the  fourth,  the  American  was  permitted  to  see  the  prison- 
ers  They  had  been  scrubbing  themselves  at  the  great  tank  ; 
and  were  allowe.1,  at  his  suggestion,  to  take  their  dinner  in  the 
open  air.  They  had  evidently  sullered  exceedingly  smce 
they  left  Monterey ;  for  their  countenances  had  lost  the 
little  color  which  the  dungeons  of  that  place  had  left  them. 
Their  hands  looked  skeleton-wise;  their  eyes  were  deeply 
sunken  in  their  sockets;  they  tottered  when  they  walked . 
Poor  men!  For  no  other  fault  than  their  Anglo-Saxon 
blood,  they  fared  like  felons!  They  had  a  long  voyage,  and 
slavery  in  ^hc  mines  of  Mexico  before  them,  and  were  sad 


V;- 


114 


8CENKS       IN       T  II  K       P  A  C  I  H  C 


They  asked  the  American  if  he  would  lead  them  in  an  attack 
upon  the  guard.  But  he  pointed  out  the  hopelessness  of  such 
an  attempt  in  their  enfeebled  condition,  and  comforted  them 
with  the  reiterated  assurance  that  he  would  meet  them  at  San 

Bias.  . 

While  this   conversation   was   gomg  on  their  dinner  ar- 
rived.    The   first  course  consisted  of  battor  cakes,   called 
tortillas,  with  a  small  quantity  of  boiled  beef  hock.     A  sad 
pittance,  and  of  the  meanest  quality.     But  one  of  them  told 
the  American  with  much  pleasantry,  that  it  was  an  attempt 
to  surprise  him  with  the  richness  of  their  fare!     The  next 
course  was  a  soup.     I  stood  by  the  kettle  while  they  dipped 
and  ate  it.     As  they  approached  the  bottom  of  the  vessel 
they  hauled  up  two  old  cloths  of  the  most  filthy  description, 
besides  other  things  which  it  would  ill  become   me  to  name ! 
They  ate  no  more !     Starvation  itself  lost  its  appetite  at  such 
a  spectacle  !     The  American  remonstrated  with  the  officer  m 
chni-e  for  allowing  such  baseness.     The  fellow  promised. 
But  why  speak  of  a  Spaniard's  promise  l    It  can  be  likened 
to  nothfn.r  so  well  as  his  iustice.     Both  are  as  unreliable  to 
one  in  his"  power,  as  the  thunder-cloud  at  night  is,  for  light 
to  him  who  treads  on  precipices ! 

As  this  was  the  last  interview  which  we  expected  to  have 
with  the  prisoners  before  they  would  leave  California,  it  was 
suggested  that  they  should  write  to  their  friends  at  home.  To 
this  they  gladly  assented.  We  therefore  furnished  them  with 
implements  for  that  purpose.  But  the  jealous  tyrants  in 
charge  saw  fit  to  prohibit  this  last,  consolation  of  the  doom- 
ed !  While,  however,  the  villains  were  engaged  in  consulta- 
tion about  it,  I  took  their  names  and  places  of  residence,  and 
promised  if  they  should  be  executed,  or  sent  to  the  Mexican 
mines,  to  give  their  friends  the  sorrowful  intelligence  of  their 

fate 

We  now  took  leave  of  them.  As  we  shook  them  by  the 

hand  their  tears  flowed  freely.  One  said,  write  to  my  sister 

a  Maine  j  another,  write  to  my  mother  in  Boston ;  another, 


L 


1  them  in  an  attack 
lopelessness  of  such 
nd  comfoited  thein 
d  meet  them  ut  San 

m  their  dinner  ar- 
att?r  cakes,  caUed 
beef  hock.  A  sad 
it  one  of  them  tohl 

it  was  an  attempt 
ir  fare!     The  next 

while  they  dipped 
)ttom  of  the  vessel 
)st  filthy  description, 
;corae  me  to  name ! 
t  its  appetite  at  such 
d  with  the  officer  in 
he  fellow  promised. 
'  It  can  be  likened 
are  as  unreliable  to 
at  night  is,  for  light 

ve  expected  to  have 
re  California,  it  was 
friends  at  home.  To 
I  furnished  them  with 
e  jealous  tyrants  in 
alation  of  the  doom- 
engaged  in  consulta- 
ces  of  residence,  and 
sent  to  the  Mexican 
1  intelligence  of  their 

re  shook  them  by  the 
iid,  write  to  my  sister 
■  in  Boston ;  another, 


r 


1  K  A  V  E  LS 


T  II 


C  A  I.  1  F  0  H  N  I  A  S  , 


113 


"  ''^^^^—••^^— 


write  to  my  uncle  in  London,  and  he  will  inform  ray  parents; 
another  said  write  to  my  wife  in  *****♦*.  Her  heart  is  al- 
ready broken  by  my  abandonment.  Another  tried  to  speak 
of  his  home;  but  grief  choked  his  utterance.  Graham  was 
himself  again.  That  hardy  and  high-toned  energy  of  charac- 
i*r  which  nature  had  given  him,  seemed  to  rise  over  mis- 
fortune, as  his  corporeal  powers  decreased.  He  was  greatly 
enfeebled  by  his  siiflerings,  and  thought  he  might  die  on  the 
passage  to  San  Bias.  "  But,"  said  he,  "  I  reckon  these  vil- 
lains will  see  me  die  'ike  a  man.  And  if  I  do  die,  I  wish  you 
to  go  to  Tennessee  ad  Kentucky,  and  tell  the  boys  of  our 
sufferings.  My  bo  es  on  the  stake,  their  rifles  will  make 
spots  on  their  vile  carcases.  Two  hundred  Tennessee  rifle- 
men could  take  >  e  country  ;  and  it's  a  mighty  pity  it  should 
be  held  by  a  set  ..f  vagabonds  who  don't  regard  the  honor  of 
God  or  the  rights  of  men.  I  have  been  here  now  seven 
ycurs  ;  have  always  been  a  peaceable  man,  except  when  I  took 
part  with  the  Californians  against  the  tyranny  of  Govern- 
ment officers  sent  up  from  Mexico.  And  now  I  am  lassooed 
like  a  bear  for  slaughter  or  bondage,  by  these  very  men 
whose  lives  and  property  myself  and  friends  saved.  Well, 
Graham  may  live  to  prime  a  rifle  again !  If  he  does,  it  will 
be  in  CaUfornia  !  Farewell  to  you.  I  hope  we  shall  meet 
in  Mexico."  The  old  man  brushed  a  tear  from  his  weather- 
beaten   generous  face,   and  we   left  him. 

The  American  repeated  his  visit  to  the  sick  Englishman. 
He  had  neither  ate,  drank,  nor  spoken.  His  limbs  were  en- 
tirely cold  and  motionless ;  fast  sinking.  The  ladies  in  at- 
tendance were  very  compassionate,  and  bestowed  on  him 
every  kindness  he  was  capabie/of  receiving.  Yet  how  inhu- 
man the  power  which,  calling  itself  a  Government,  authorises 
such  murders  !  The  halter  which  swings  at  the  bidding  of  a 
civil  tribunal,  the  axe  which  flashes  along  the  grooves  of  the 
guillotine,  have  their  horrors ;  and  the  head  picked  up  by 
the  mob  and  shown  while  life  yet  speaks  from  the  eyes,  and 
the  dying  love  of  Freedom  still  clothes  the  countenance, 


116 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


shocks  human  forbearance  !  But  to  be  killed  by  inches,  to 
be  sent  to  the  arms  of  death  by  tlie  long  agonies  of  thir.it  and 
famine,  for  no  crime  save  that  of  being  an  American  or 
Briton,  is  a  sacrifice  at  which  malice  itself  in  its  soberer  mo- 
ments shudders  and  turns  pale.  So  was  this  man  dying.  He 
breathed  heavily.  One  of  Castro's  ofhcers  came  in,  and  re- 
marking that  he  was  undoubtedly  a  leeble  man,  kissed  his 
hand  gallantly  to  the  ladies  and  retired. 

The  evening  was  spent  with  Mrs.  J.  A.  Jones,  the  Califor- 
nian  spouse  of  the  former  American  Consul   at  the  Hawaian 
Islands,  and  her  sisters.    A  stroll,  a  i   'c-u-lctc,  anil  the  sweet 
guitar  !  The  air  was  balmy  ;  the  smiles  ^'ere  deeply  sympathiz- 
in<T  ;  the  laugh  savved  richly  of  the  t    arest  impulses  of  the 
soul ;  the  music  was  the   warm  brea      of  the  great  living 
principle  of  the  best  affections.     All   bt  ond  was  barbarism 
and  wilderness  !     The  vast  piimpas,  the  unexplored  streams, 
the  unpruned  forests,  the  growling  hosts  of  beasts  that  war 
with  life  and  gnaw  each  other's  bones ;  the  roaring  seas ;  the 
wild  men,  women  and   children,   unlocated,  homeless, — the 
untamed  fields  of  earth  and  the  deserts  of  the  human  heart  lay 
outside  ;  within  was  our  little  company.    Will  the  reader  tarry 
here  awhile    and  listen  to  tales  of  olden  times  ?     They  tell  of 
heroic  deeds,  of  martyrdoms,  and  glorious  conquests.     They 
will  bring  backtheeventsof  buried  years;  willshowthe  deeds  of 
those  who  acted  here  and  died ;  and  as  the  scene  moves  on, 
this  charming  land,  with  all  its  countless  beauties  and  its  grey 
and  noiseless  wastes,  will  appear.* 


1  FI  C. 


cilletl  by  inches,  to 
ijionies  of  thir.it  and 
g  an  American  or 
If  in  its  soberer  cio- 
his  man  dying.  He 
s  came  in,  and  re- 
ble  man,  kissed  his 

.  Jones,  the  Califor- 
isul  at  the  Hawaian 
I't-tetc,  anil  the  sweet 
re  deeply  sympathiz- 
irest  impulses  of  the 

of  the  great  living 
ond  was  barbarism 
unexplored  streams, 

of  beasts  that  war 
he  roaring  seas ;  the 
ited,  homeless, — the 
f  the  human  heart  lay 
Will  the  reader  tarry 
imes  ?  They  tell  of 
us  conquests.  They 
villshowthe  deeds  of 
the  scene  moves  on, 
beauties  and  its  grey 


1 


CHAPTER   VII. 

An  Incomparable  Wildeme^s-A  Strange  PericKl-Phrenzy-An  Inlm 
Fire-Gentlemen  by  the  Grac.^  of  God  verms  Genilemen  by  the  Grace  of 
Pell- A  SigUiofaGreai  Sca-The  first  Voyagearound  theEarth-ASur- 
„„aer-Victi.ns- Fleet- Voya-e- Another  Voyage-Mnrder-Mas- 
sacre-Another  VoyaRe-Shipwreck-Beaten  to  death  in  the  surf-Th« 
D-ad  and  their  Requiera-<3aihered  at  their  Ancient  Aliars-A  Return- 
Another  Voyage-An  Arrival  from  a  Ten  Years'  tramp  among  the  Sar- 
ages-An  Expedition  by  Sea  and  Land-Death  of  the  Discoverer  of 
California. 

Any  part  of  the  earth  with  its  forests,  its  native  grasses, 
herbs,  flowers,  streams  and  animals,  unmolested  by  the  trans- 
forming powers  of  that  race  which  derives  a  livelihood  from 
a.rriculture,  commerce,  and  their  attendant  handicrafts,  is  a 
spectacle  of  great  interest.     The  seasons  as  they  come  and 
go— the  spring  with  its  lich  blossoms  and  leaves— the  sum- 
mer with  its  fulness  of  vigor— the  autumn  with  its  dropping 
fruits— and  the  winter,  that  Sabbath  of  the  year,  when  na- 
ture rests  from  her  toil— all  bring  to  the  old  wilderness  un- 
numbered charms.     But  who  can  portray  them  1    They  are 
so  closely  grouped,  so  richly  tinted,  so  mellow,  so  sacred  and 
grand,  liat  a  long  Tife  is  requiretl  to  perceive  them.     And  I 
often  think,  if  we  should  study  the  ancient  woods  and  tower- 
ing rocks,  and  the  countless  beauties  among  them,  through 
all  our  days  as  we  do  in  childhootl,  we  should  be  drawn  nearer 
to  virtue  and  to  God  ! 

California  is  an  incomparable  wilderness.  It  differs  from 
that  which  overhung  the  Pilgrims  of  New  England.  That  was 
a  forest  broken  only  by  the  streams  and  the  beautiful  lakes  in 
which  the  Indian  angled  for  his  food.  This  is  a  wilderness 
of  groves  and  hwns,  broken  by  deep  and  rich  ravines,  sepa- 


gCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


118 

rated  from  each  other  by  broad,  and  wild  wastes.     Along  the 
ocean  is  a  world  of  vegetable  beauty;  on  the  sider  of  the 
mountains  are  the  mightiest  trees  of  the  earth ;  on  the  heigbts 
are  the  eternal  snows,  lighted  by  volcanic  fires  !    But  this  is  not 
the  place  to  describe  the  features  of  tliis  remarkable  country.    1 
have  said  there  is  a  tale  of  ohlen  times  connected  with  it  and 
its  people,  which  must  first  be  given.     A  strange  period  in 
the  history  of  man  is  that,  in  which  the  Californias  became 
known  to  Europeans.     The  latter  years  of  the  fifteenth,  and 
the  first  of  the  sixteenth  century,  embrace  it.     It  is  a  barba- 
rous era  of  human  energy-not  the  energy  of  well-directed 
reason— but  of  that  recuperative  force  of  human  nature  which 
for  centuries  bends  under  ignorance  and  inaction,  and  then, 
like  some  central  spark,  ignites  the  mass,  and  flows  forth  over 
every  opposing  obstacle. 

The  attempt  to  take  Palestine  from  the  Infidels  has  called 
out  the  combating  and  religious  faculties  in  conjunction.  Vene- 
ration for  the  Church  and  its  rites  is  the  ruling  idea  ;  the  cross  is 
transferred  from  the  cathedral  to  the  field  of  battle,  and  with  so- 
lemn hymns  to  God  the  people  of  Europe  march  to  their  graves 
on  the  desecrated  plains  of  Jerusalem.    This  religious  battling 
has  an  end ;  but  its  influence  on  the  minds  of  the  people  has 
been  immense.     They  have  wrapped  their  faith  around  their 
lances ;  turned  from  commerce,  the  subjugation  of  the  soil,  and 
general  industry,  to  war  upon  opinions-to  an  unsettled  state 
of  fanatical  vagabondism,  which  turns  the  world  loose  upon 
itself  in  a  religious  phrenzy  that  is  forced  to  seek  an  outlet 
among  the  waves  of  the  western  seas. 

Half  the  solid  land  of  the  globe  with  its  boundless  forests, 
its  Amazon  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  its  mountain  ranges,  itg 
unnumbered  forms  of  animal  life,  its  savage  infidels-all  its 
vastness,  beauty  and  gold,  catches  the  restless  fancy  of  the  age, 
and  Columbus  is  among  its  sea-weed-sees  the  light  of  the 
Indian's  evening  fire,  and  invites  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Old 
World  to  the  New.  It  comes.  It  is  love  of  wealth,  power, 
and  faith ! 


1 


CI F I C . 

I  wastes.     Along  the 
;  on  the  sider  of  the 
earth ;  on  the  heij^lits 
fires  !    But  this  is  not 
iiniirkable  country.    I 
3onnected  with  it  and 
A  strange  period  in 
B  Californias  became 
1  of  the  fifteenth,  and 
le  it.    It  is  a  barba- 
ergy  of  well-directed 
f  human  nature  which 
,d  inaction,  and  then, 
},  and  flows  forth  over 

the  Infidels  has  called 
in  conjunction.  Vene- 
uling  idea  ;  the  cross  is 
1  of  battle,  and  with  so- 
e  march  to  their  graves 
This  religious  battling 
inds  of  the  people  has 
their  faith  around  their 
jugation  of  the  soil,  and 
i — to  an  unsettled  state 
the  world  loose  upon 
)rced  to  seek  an  outlet 

ith  its  boundless  forests, 
s  mountain  ranges,  its 
savage  infidels — all  its 
restless  fancy  of  the  age, 
—sees  the  light  of  the 
;  enthusiasm  of  the  Old 
I  love  of  wealth,  power, 


n 


'1  5 


1  \ 


Fizarro.—P.  119. 


Cortes.—P.  1 19. 


I 


1 


T  n  A  V  E  I.  1       IN       T  II  K       f  A  I.  I  »■  O  n  !V  I  A  » 


119 


L 


Venice,  Genoa  anil  Florence  are  bringing  overland,  from 
the  East  Indii's,  so  nuich  wealth,  that  kings  are  tributary  to 
tliem.     The  palaces  of  the  merchant  princes  outvie  those  of 
the  cut-throats  Royal  by  the  Grace  of  God.     Ami  the  lead- 
ing cord  of  events  now  is,  to  find  a  shorter  route  to  the  silks  of 
Hindostan.     For  in  this  lies  the  possibility  that  these  Grace 
of  God  gentlemen  may  rid  themselves  of  their  unpleasant 
dependence  upon  the  coffers,  navies  and  armies,  of  tb"se  free 
States.     Portugal,   Spain,  France,  England,  enter  the  lists  of 
this  great  Tournament  of  El  Dorado.     The  prize  sought  to 
be  wrested  from  the  hand  of  Dame  Fortune  is,  a  water  pas- 
sage through  the  American  Continent,  by  which  the  ships  of 
the  discovering  nation  may  reach  the  East  Indies.     Columbus, 
Balboa  and  Cortez  on  the  part  of  Spain,  seek  it  along  the 
shores  of  the   Gulf  of  Mexico ;  but   the  Continent   spreads 
itself  an  everywhere  present  barrier  to  their   hopes.     This 
Vasco  Nunnez  de  Balboa  in  1513  is  in  the  Gulf  of  Uraba ; 
and  an  Indian   chief  called   Panquiaca  conducts  him  over 
the  Cordilleras  range  of  the  Isthmus  Darien,  to  Michae?mas 
Gulf  on  the  Pacific.     The  Great  Pacific  Ocean  is  first  seen 
by  this  man.     His  name  is  written  among  the  heroes  of  those 
benighted  years.     It  is  dyed  in  the  blood  of  many  thousand 
slaughtered  Indians.     He  leads  Pizarro  to  the  foul  murder  of 
the  Incas!     He  opens  the  arteries  of  Guatimala  !     In  1519, 
Fernando  Magellano,  in  the  service  of  Portugal,  discovers 
the  Strait  which  bears  his  name,  sails  across  the  South  Pacific, 
and  touches  at  the  Ladrone  and  Philippine  islands.     Among 
the  latter  group  himself  and  many  of  his  companions  perish. 
Juan  Sebastian  del  Cano  succeeds  to  the  command,  traverses 
the  Indian  Ocean,  doubles  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
moors  safely  on  his  native  shore.     Two  passages  to  the  East 
Indies  have  now  been  discovered,  and  the  earth  for  the  first 
time  circumnavigated  in  1522.     The  Pacific  has  been  seen  at 
Darien,  and  ploughed  in  the  Antarctic  latitude.     But  its  north- 
ern parts  are  yet  unexplored.     Hernando  Cortez,  the  student 
of  Salamanca,  the  magistrate  of  San  Diego  de  Cuba,  the 


IJO 


■  r  K  N  F.  H       IN       T  II  K       I'  A  t  I  F  I  C 


1 


murderer  of  Montezuma  iiivl  r.ualimnzin,  the  slmler,  fire 
feet  seven  itieli  eotuiueror  ol   Mexico,  undertakes  this. 

Ui,  the  thirteenth  of  Aut,M.st,  1521,  Mexico  surrenders  to 
Cortez,  and  tlie  King  of  Meehoacan,  whoso  dominions  extend 
to  the  shores  of  the  I'acilic,  also  suhmits  to  this  inajristrate 
of  San  Diego.  Men  are  sent  to  exi)h)re  three  different 
points  ibr  a  ship-yard  on  the  eoast  of  the  Great  South  Sea  ; 
forty  Spaniards,  carpenters,  sawyers,  and  bhuksiniths, are  sent 
to  the  chosen  port ;  iron,  anchors,  cahhs,  sails,  ngginir, pitch, 
oakum,  bitumen,  and  other  naval  stores,  suflicient  to  build  two 
briganlines,  are  borne  by  Indian  slaves  an.l  a  few  mules  from 
Vera  Cruz  to  Zacatula  ;  a  distance  of  six  hundred  miles! 

But  misfortune  is  beginnin|r  to  tread  on  the  heel  of  Cortez* 
enterprise.     Tiiese  materials,  soon  aft.  r  their  arrival  at  Zaca 
tula,  are  consume,!  by  fire,     lie  has  used  all  his  private  fun.ls 
in  the  purchase  ;  but  as  his  crc.lit  is  still  good,  a  thousan. 
Indian   backs,   stout  and  subservient,  are    again   gored  an.l 
broken  by  similar  burthens.     Ami  the  mountain  path-ways 
fmmVera  Cruz  are  a  second  time  thron^.e.!  with  victims, 
dyin.^  under  the  baies  of  materials  for  buil.ling   the  magis- 
tr»tc?s  brigantines.     Cortez  sees  them  rise  from  keel  to  top- 
...ast,  constructed  with  very  sharp  bows,  and  masts  leaning 
.o. ward,  carrying  triangular  sails;  an.l   although   ill-shaped, 
they  run  near  the  win.l.     In  1524,  this  fleet  sails  under  com- 
mand  of  one  Christopher  de  Oli.l,  on  a  voyage  among  the 
unseen  waters  of  tlie  North  !     This  expclition,  h.nvever    re- 
suits  in  nothing  but  wind  and  storm,  and  the  return  of  the 
ships  in  a  miserabb  condition. 

Great  minds  in  different  ages  have  reposed  belief  in  Strang^ 
things.  C^sar  trusted  in  the  entrails  of  birds;  the  Bn«4l 
Parliament  enacted  laws  against  witchcraft ;  and  this  Cortez, 
in  1524,  believes  in  a  nation  of  immense  women,  called  Ama- 
zons,  inhabiting  a  very  large  island  whose  shores  are  strewn 
with  pearls  and  gold  !  A  sufficient  variety  of  taste  has  hu- 
man  credulity,  to  give  it  a  keen  appetite  a^d  capacu^us 
throat.     Cortez  determines  to  discover  the  habitation  of  these 


I  I-  I  (' . 

n,  the  slender,  fire 
Itrtiikfs  this. 
Irxico  surrenders  to 
wc  tioinininns  extend 
ts  to  tliis  mai^istratc 
ilore  three  diflerent 
he  Great  South  Sea  ; 

l)hi(ksniith.s, are  sent 
i,  sails,  rifi^i nil,  pitch, 
siilliiient  to  build  two 
inil  a  few  mules,  from 
six  hunilretl  miles ! 
Ill  the  heel  of  Cortez' 
iheir  arrival  at  Zaca 
I  all  his  private  funds 
still  good,  a  thousand 
are   again  i^ored  and 

mountain  path-ways 
iionj.;ed  with  vietims, 
r  Iniildinf?  the  magis- 
rise  from  keel  to  top- 
A-s,  anil  mast^3  leanini; 
I   althou-rh   ill-shaped, 

fleet  sails  under  com- 

a  voyage  among  the 
ipedition,  however,  re- 

and  the  return  of  the 

jposed  belief  in  strange 
Is  of  birds;  the  British 
icraft ;  and  this  Cortez, 
ise  women,  called  Ama- 
vhose  shores  are  strewn 
ariety  of  taste  has  hu- 
ippetite  and  capacious 
r  the  habitation  of  these 


1 


T  K  A  V  K  I.  H       IN       T  M  K       t    A  1.  1  r  ()  H  >  I   A  ^ 


121 


L 


liirf;e  liidies.  But  in  15°2H  his  fame  fulls  into  the  hands  of 
Spaniards  who  treat  it  with  the  same  lesped  as  they  already 
have  that  of  Columiiiis  ;  that  is,  begin  to  dig  its  grave. 

To  avoid  the  vexations  whiih  the  Vieeroy  ol  Mexico,  and 
a  few  other  envious  men,  lire  throwing  around  hiiii  to  cripple 
his  etl'orLs,  lie  sails  to  Spain  and  presents  iiimsetf  to  his  King. 
He  is  received  at  court  with  market!  kindness,  is  made  Mar- 
quis dt'l  V^illi;  de  (iiiaxaia,  ('aplain  (icneral  of  New  Spain 
and  the  provinces  and  coasts  ol  the  South  Sea,  discoverir 
iind  peopler  of  those  coasts  and  of  the  island  of  pearls,  gold 
iitid  Amazons,  with  a  grant  of  the  twelfth  part,  fur  himself  and 
heirs,  of  all  the  territory  that  he  shall  discover  and  cimipier. 
These  powers,  privileges  and  honors  lire  anew  the  voleanic 
.spirit  of  this  five  feil  seven  inch  slfiulei  student  of  Salaman- 
ca. In  1530,  theretbrt!,  after  having  agreed  with  his  sove- 
reign to  prosecute  his  discoveries  in  the  South  Seas  at  his 
own  expense,  he  returns  to  Mexico ;  and  finding  the  Audien- 
cia,  the  Council  of  Goverinnent,  still  inimical  to  him,  deter- 
mines at  once  to  undertake  the  manifold   duties  of  his  oirice. 

Accordingly  in  May,  1532,  he  appoints  Diego  llortadc 
Mendo/.a,  a  relative  of  his,  commander  of  two  ships  which  he 
has  built  at  Acapulco,  and  sends  him  on  a  cruise  into  the 
Pacific.  The  crew  of  one  of  these  vessels  mutinies  and 
brings  her  back  to  Xalisco.  The  other,  under  the  personal 
command  of  Mendoza,  is  never  heard  of  after  she  leaves 
port.  Misfortune  never  weakens  Cortez'  resolution.  On 
advice  of  his  kinsman's  loss  and  the  ill  fate  of  his  expedition, 
he  proceeds  to  Tehuantepec,  and  superintends  the  buildings 
of  two  other  ships.  These  sail  in  1534  for  the  fabled  island 
of  Amazons,  under  command  of  Hernando  Grijalva  and  a 
cousin  of  Cortez,  Diego  Becera  Mendoza.  Grijalva  pro- 
ceeds three  hundred  leagues  to  a  desert  island  which  he  calls 
San  Tomas,  and  returns.  Ximenes,  the  pilot  of  the  other,  kills 
the  commander,  and  having  assumed  the  command,  sails  up 
the  Gulf-coast  of  California  as  far  as  the  bay  of  Santa  Cruz. 
Here  himself  and  twenty  of  his  crew  are   destroyed  by 


122 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


the  Inflians.     After  this  event  the  sailors  take  the  vessel 
down  the  coast  of  Mexico  to  a  port  called  Chiaraetla. 

Xiiuenes'  people,  in  the  true  spirit  of  the  race  to  which 
they  belong,  represent  the  countij  in  which  the.r  pilot  has 
been  killed,  as  fruitful  and  thickly  peopled,  and  the  sea  around 
it,  stored  with  great  quantities  of  pearl  beds.     So  that  the  mis- 
fortunes  of  former  voyages  only  serve  to  arouse  the  uncon 
querable  spirit  of  this  magistrate  of  San  Diego  de  Cuba,  to 
further  effort  in  search  of  the  rich  islands  and  countries  in  the 
'iorth  Pacific.     He  accordingly  gives  public  notice,  that  Her- 
nando  Cortez,  the  conqueror  of  Mexico,  Marquis  del  Valle, 
His  Majesty's  discoverer,  &c.  &c.,  designs  to  take  command 
of  a  fleet  for  this  purpose.    Spaniards  from  all  parts  of  the 
c-antry  enter  his  camp  at  Tehuantepec;  three  new  ships  are 
launched,  well  supplied  with  stores  for  a  long  cruise,  and  sent 
northward  to  Chiametla;  thither  Cortez  goes,  with  a  large 
body  of  priests,  officers  and  soldiers,  and  several  families,  de- 
signing to  settle  in  the  territories  he  may  discover;  the  ship 
of  Ximenes,  lying  at  Chiametla,  empty  and  plundered,  is  fitted 
up  as  the  fourth  vessel  of  this  little  squadron  ;  and  Cortez  and 
a  part  of  his  followers  sail  into  the  unknown  north;  enter 
the  bay  where  Ximines  was  killed ;  and  call  it  Santa  Cruz, 

Bahia  de  la  Paz. 

Having  landed  his  people  and  stores  at  this  place,  he  sends 
his  ships  back  to  Chiametla  for  a  part  of  the  stores  and  peo- 
ple which  have  been  left.     Buftempests  fall  upon  them,  and 
contrary  winds  so  thwart  them,  that  only  one  ever  returns 
to  La  Paz.     Their  stores  and  provisions  consequently  wane 
fast ;  the  country  around  is  desolate  and  barren ;  death  gnashes 
his  teeth  upon  them,  and  starvation  walks  a  ghastly  image 
through  their  pallid  ranks ;  but  Cortez  sees  a  difficulty  only  to 
conquer  it.     He  immediately  puts  to  sea  in  his  only  remaining 
ship ;  crosses  the  gulf ;  coasts  along  its  eastern  shore  for  the 
space  of  fifty  leagues,  amid  infinite  dangers  from  rocks,  currents 
and  tempests;  finds  his  lost  ships  stranded  on  the  coast  ot 


tCIFlC. 

ors  take  the  vessel 
;d  Chiametla. 
;  the  race  to  which 
'hich  their  pilot  has 
■d,  and  the  sea  around 
jds.     So  that  the  mis- 
;o  arouse  the  uncon 
I  Diego  de  Cuba,  to 
s  and  countries  in  the 
iblic  notice,  that  Her- 
;o,  Marquis  del  Valle, 
Dfns  to  take  command 
from  all  parts  of  the 
;  three  new  ships  are 
i  long  cruise,  and  sent 
tez  goes,  with  a  large 
d  several  families,  de- 
lay discover ;  the  ship 
and  plundered,  is  fitted 
ladron ;  and  Cortez  and 
mknown  north;  enter 
nd  call  it  Santa  Cruz, 


s  at  this  place,  he  sends 
t  of  the  stores  and  peo- 
!sts  fall  upon  them,  and 
t  only  one  ever  returns 
ions  consequently  wane 
d  barren ;  death  gnashes 
walks  a  ghastly  image 
!  sees  a  difficulty  only  to 
;ea  in  his  only  remaining 
its  eastern  shore  for  the 
igers  from  rocks,  currents 
itranded  on  the  coast  of 


L 


i 


TRAVEL?       IN       T  H  K       C  A  I,  I  K  O  R  N  I  A  S  . 


123 


Senora,  and  the  bodies  of  liis  companions  rotting  and  boating 
among  the  breakers !  A  sad  end  to  those  men  was  that !  A 
dolorous  termination  to  Cortez'  hopes  of  discovery  !  and  dread- 
ful to  the  people  of  La  Paz,  on  a  heated  and  desolate  shore, 
starving  and  thirsting,  the  living  eating  the  dead  and  chinking 
their  blood !  On  his  return  ho  fnuls  the  few  wretched  ones 
who  yet  live,  mad  with  hunger !  They  shout  with  wild  ma- 
niac joy,  and  rush  into  the  surf!  They  try  to  swim  to  the 
ship  for  food  and  are  cfist  back  upon  the  shore  by  the  surges ! 
Many  perish  in  the  angry  waters !  Cortez  lands  and  gives 
them  food  in  sparing  quantities.  But  the  tides  of  life  have 
been  ebbing  too  long !  Their  dying  energies  are  overtaxed  ! 
They  die  by  twenties  and  are  buried  among  the  brambles  with 
the  holy  water  sprinkled  on  them  for  a  coffin  and  winding 
sheet !  The  rude  cross  of  wood  stands  over  each  one's  grave, 
the  symbol  of  faith  and  life  to  come !  And  now  the  deep  de- 
sert, red  and  toneless,  hears  their  requiem,  in  the  clankinf 
cable  of  Cortez's  ship,  as  the  wailing  crew  heave  the  anchor, 
and  depart  from  the  eastern  shore  of  Lower  California ! 

Meantime  report  at  Mexico  says  that  the  murderer  of  Gua- 
timozin  and  Montezuma  has  perished  in  the  western  seas. 
Cortez  is  the  name  of  a  corse  bloated  and  sunken  in  their 
depths.  The  caciques  of  the  fallen  dynasty  shout  for  glad- 
ness among  the  mountains  of  Mexico.  Tlteir  enslaver  no 
longer  breathes.  The  great  relentless  heait  of  Cortez  is 
rotting.  His  fiery  eye  has  ceased  to  burn.  His  unconquera- 
ble soul  no  longer  hovers  over  their  native  vales,  and  the 
sound  of  his  terrible  voice  is  for  ever  hushed.  This  belief 
rouses  their  lost  courage.  They  gather  around  t^^eir  ancient 
altars.  The  holy  Sun  is  besought  to  blight  their  oppressors 
with  his  fervent  fires,  and  send  life,  love,  and  true  hearts 
among  his  fallen  children.  They  worship  in  their  ancient 
lemoles,  and  vow  that  they  will  be  free. 

The  Marchioness  Donna  Juanna  de  Zunniga,  daughter  of 
the  Count  de  Aguilar  and  cousin  to  the  Duke  de  Bejan,  has 
loved  the  student  of  Salamanca,  and  become  his  second  wife 


124 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


Ami  the  love  of  this  woman  still  burns  ardently,  and  alonei 
for  her  absent  husband.  The  Audiencia  at  Mexico  arc  Span- 
lards,  and  as  such  can  lay  aside  their  jealousy  of  Cortez 
when  his  prowess  is  required  to  save  their  necks.  A  virtue 
this  which  never  fails  to  grow  where  Castilian  blood  fertilizes 
the  human  frame.  The  Caciques  now  line  the  mountain  sides 
with  their  followers ;  the  war-cry  bounds  across  the  vale  of 
the  city.  "  Cortez  is  dead,  and  we  can  be  free !"  is  sung  on 
all  the  heights  from  the  Gulf  to  the  Pacific.  That  Audiencia 
now  loves  Cortez.  They  condole  with  his  wife  on  her  pro- 
bable loss,  and  allow  her  to  send  a  ship  with  letters  from  her- 
self urging  his  return.  The  Caciques  press  towards  their  holy 
city,  and  its  sacred  lakes.  The  avenging  passions  of  enslaved 
millions  growl  through  the  land,  and  the  clash  of  savage 
arms,  their  dancings  and  songs,  mingle  in  one  direful  din  on 
the  ear  of  the  Viceroy.  He  sends  entreaties  that  Cortez  will 
return  and  save  the  country.  These  messages  from  the  Vice- 
roy and  his  wife  reach  him  on  the  coast  of  Senora  ;  he  sails 
back  to  La  Paz ;  leaves  Francisco  de  Ulloa  in  charge  of  a 
part  of  his  people ;  returns  to  Acapulco ;  goes  to  Quahuna- 
huac  to  meet  his  anxious  wife ;  and  thence  proceeds  to  Mexi- 
co. The  poor  Indians  learn  that  the  murderer  of  their 
Emperor  lives !  They  lay  down  their  arms,  and  every  hope 
of  freedom. 

Ulloa  has  followed  his  master,  and  awaits  his  orders  at 
Acapulco.  In  May,  1537,  he -is  again  ordered  to  sea  with 
three  ships,  the  Santa  Agueda,  La  Trinidad,  and  Santo  Tor- 
res. He  touches  at  Santiago  de  Buetia  Esperanza  ;  at  Guay- 
abal ;  crosses  over  to  California,  and  follows  the  :;oast  to  the 
head  of  the  Gulf.  Along  this  f  "-ast  he  sees  many  volcanoes, 
bare  mountains,  and  barren  valleys.  Whales  abound  in  the 
sea ;  and  on  the  land  he  finds  large,  heavy,  and  very  crooked 
sheep's  horns;  also  naked  Indians  taking  fish  with  hooks 
made  of  wood,  bone,  and  tortoise-shell,  who  wear  bright 
shells  about  the  neck,  and  use  the  maws  of  sea-wolves  for 


n  c . 

irclently,  and  alone, 
it  Mexico  arc  Span- 
jealousy  of  Cortez 
;ir  necks.     A  virtue 
ilian  blood  fertilizes 
the  mountain  sides 
across  the  vale  of 
be  free  I"  is  sung  on 
fie.     That  Audiencia 
his  wife  on  her  pro- 
jvith  letters  from  her- 
ess  towards  their  holy 
r  passions  of  enslaved 
the  clash  of  savage 
in  one  direfxd  din  on 
;aties  that  Cortez  will 
essages  from  the  Vice- 
5t  of  Senora  ;  he  sails 
UUoa  in  charge  of  a 
CO ;  goes  to  Quahvma- 
;nce  proceeds  to  Mexi- 
the  murderer  of  their 
arms,  and  every  hope 

d  awaits  his  orders  at 
lin  ordered  to  sea  with 
rinidad,  and  Santo  Tor- 
a  Esperanza  ;  at  Guay- 
foUows  the  coast  to  the 
he  sees  many  volcanoes, 
Whales  abound  in  the 
lieavy,  and  very  crooked 
taking  fish  with  hooks 
•shell,  who  wear  bright 
maws  of  sea-wolves  for 


T  U  A  V  E  1.  S       I  N       T  UK       c:  A  I,  I  K  O  R  N  1  A  8  . 


Ub 


drinking  vessels  !     After  a  year's  cruising  in  the  Gulf,  or  Ma 
de  Cortoz,  UUoa  returns  to  Acapulco. 

About  this  time  Alvar  Nunnez  Cabeza  de  Vaca  and  his 
three  companions,  Castello,  Dorontes,  and  a  negro  called  Es- 
tevanico,  arrive  at  Mexico.  They  are  the  only  survivors  of 
three  hundred  Spaniards  who  landed  in  Florida  with  Pamfilo  de 
Narvaez,  ten  years  before,  with  the  intention  of  conquering 
that  country.  They  have  been  defeated  and  «lriven  from  Flo- 
rida, and  having  wandered  on  foot  tlfiough  Louisiana,  Texas, 
and  other  parts  inhabited  by  savages,  they  appear  among 
their  countrymen  naked,  and  so  changed  in  their  personal  ap- 
pearance, that  their  language  is  ahnost  the  only  evidence  of 
their  origin.  This  Alvar  Nunnez  Cabeza  de  Vaca  relates 
such  surprising  tales  of  his  adventures,  and  the  gold,  pearls, 
&c.,  seen  in  the  north,  as  to  kindle  anew  the  avarice  of  the 
Spaniards.  The  excitement,  however,  does  not  reach  its 
height  until  the  return  of  a  monk  who  has  travelled  over 
those  countries  with  the  design  of  Christianizing  the  natives. 
This  man  has  seen  rich  countries  covered  with  grains,  fruits, 
countless  herds  of  black  cattle,  and  mountains  shining  with 
the  precious  metals. 

The  Viceroy  and  Cortez  are  enemies.  They  both  conceive 
the  design  of  penetrating  these  countries.  But  the 
former  induces  the  creditors  of  the  latter  to  vex  him  with  le- 
gal proceedings  while  he  himself  dispatches  an  expedition  by 
sea  and  another  by  land,  to  discover  and  conquer  these  won- 
der-born regions.  The  land  force  is  led  by  Francisco  Vas- 
quez  Coronado.  He  marches  at  the  head  of  one  thousand 
chosen  men;  and  after  many  hardships  reaches  his  destination,  m 
52^  N.  Lat.,  three  hundred  leagues  north  of  Culiacan,  Cinaloa, 
and  Valle  de  Senora.  He  finds  a  province  here  composed  of 
seven  towns  in  which  are  about  four  hundred  men  and  a  pro- 
portionate number  of  women  and  children.  The  largest  has 
two  hundred  houses  of  earth  and  rough  wood.  Some  are  four 
and  five  stories  high.    The  entrance  to  each  door  is  from  the 


I'M 


8CENE8      IN       THE       PACIFIC 


outside  by  means  of  stairs,  which,  for  security,  are  removed  at 

night. 

The  country  not  being  strewn  with  gold  and  gems,  how- 
ever, as  the  soldiers  anticipated,  they  propose    to  return.  But 
Coronado  sends  a  body  of  them  three  hundred  leagues  farther 
^  north,  in  search  of  two  cities,  called  Quivira  and  Axa.     They 
find  only  a  rich  country  abounding  in  fruit,  cattle  and  wild 
beasts.     Meeting  with  nothing,  therefore,  in  all  these  regions 
to  gratify  their  cupidity  during  a  search  of  three  years,  they 
return  to  Mexico  and  report  to  that  effect.     This  expedition 
has  traversed  the  interior  of  Upper  California.     The  arma- 
ment, meantime,  has  sailed  to  the  place  of  rendezvous  on  the 
Pacific  coast  of  Oregon,  and  awaited  in  idleness  the  arrival 
of  the  land  expedition.  But  as  Grijalva  was  spending  his  time 
in  searching  for  a  land  of  gold,  and  the  fabled  cities  of 
Quivira  and  Axa,  instead  of  seeking  his  countrymen  at  the 
appointed  place,  the  commander  of  the  fleet  found  it  conve- 
nient to  return  to  Mexico.  He  is  soon  after  disgraced  and  dies 
of  chagrin.     Thus  terminate  the  Viceroy's  expeditions  ! 

The  friends  of  Cortez  bruit  this  failure  of  his  enemy  to  de- 
fraud  their  chief  of  bis  rights.     But  the  star  of  that  great 
man  is  sinking  ;  and  they  cannot  stay  its  fall.    Thwarted  and 
overreached  by  his  enemies,  and  finding  the  mind  of  his  sove- 
reign poisoned  by  their  machinations,  he  resolves  to  present 
himself  again  at  Court  and  demand  his  rights.     Accordin'.Tly, 
in  1540,  he  embarks  with  his  two  sons  for  Spain ;  attends  the 
King  in  his  unfortunate  expedition  to    Algiers;  and  after 
spending  seven  years  in  vain  efforts  to  regain  the  favor  of  his 
monarch,  expires  of  grief  and  disappointment  at  Castillya  de 
la  Cuesta,  while  on  his  way  to  meet  his  daughter  at  Cadiz. 
Thus    dies  the    conqueror    of   Mexico   and    discoverer  of 
California ! 


^^^pn^M 


;;  I  r  1  c 

\irity,  are  removed  at 

rold  and  gems,  how- 
opose  to  return.  But 
mdred  leagues  farther 
vira  and  Axa.     They 

fruit,  cattle  and  wild 
e,  in  all  these  regions 
■,h  of  three  years,  they 
ect.  This  expedition 
ilifornia.     The  arma- 

of  rendezvous  on  the 
in  idleness  the  arrival 
was  spending  his  time 

the  fabled  cities  of 
his  countrymen  at  the 
fleet  found  it  conve- 
after  disgraced  and  dies 
oy's  expeditions ! 
ire  of  his  enemy  tc  de- 

the  star  of  that  great 
Its  fall.  Thwarted  and 
ig  the  mind  of  his  sove- 

he  resolves  to  present 
s  rights.  AccordinvTly, 
5  for  Spain ;  attends  the 
to    Algiers ;  and  after 

regain  the  favor  of  his 
lintment  at  Castillya  de 
his  daughter  at  Cadiz, 
ico   and    discoverer  of 


T 


1 


CHAPTER  VII!. 

Three  liandred  y.'ars  ago— The  Capiiana,  Almirania,  Fri?iite  and  Bars* 
Lon;,'o — A  nirt'  Bint— Mazailnn— A  Fo^  aiui  a  R(,'el'— San  Ban.abe — 
Layiii;;  down  Anns— Rich  Shores— Game— Xaiure's  Salt  Works— 
Depuriiire— A  NorihwcMer — A  Separation— Sijjnal  Fires— A  Desert— 
Fi^h— A  Saline  Lalie— Tracts  and  a  Meeting'— An  Island— A  Precious 
Mountain- Amber— Cerros—Circiininavif,'ating— San  Hypolilo — Up 
the  Coast— A  Gale— Out  of  sii,'lit— Comes  to  Anchor— Bahia  San 
Francisco  of  the  South— Native  Cattle— Indian  Courtesy — A  Meeting— 
Another  Bay— A  Battle— Weijjhs— San  Diego— Savages — Graves — 
SaiHa  C.iiarina— Its  Inhahitants  ami  Customs — Its  Productions— A 
Temple— A  line  of  Islands — His  Majesty  and  Hos|)itality — A  Blow — 
Four  Canoes- Rio  San  Carmclo— Monterey  in  1000 — Death— The  Al- 
mirania tlispaichcd  to  Mexico — A  Horrid  Disease — The  Country — Its 
People  and  Animals — Bahia  San  Francisco  of  the  North — Cape  Men- 
docino—Death  !  Death !— Return  to  Mazatlan— Death— To  Acapuleo 
-Lamentations ! ! 

In  1542  the  Viceroy  of  Mexico  sends  Juan  Rodriguez  Ca- 
brillo  from  the  Port  of  Navidad  with  two  ships,  on  a  voyage 
of  discovery  up  the  coast  of  California.  He  touches  at 
Santa  Cruz,  la  Magdalena,  Cape  del  Enganno  in  lat.  32", 
La  Cruz  in  33",  de  la  Galera  in  36^",  the  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco in  about  37"  40',  and  sees  a  large  Cape,  in  lat.  40", 
which  he  calls  Mendocino,  in  honor  of  the  Viceroy.  In  March, 
1543,  he  reaches  44"  without  making  any  additional  discover- 
ies of  importance.  At  this  time,  the  cold  being  very  intense, 
he  turns  his  ship  homeward  and  enters  the  harbor  of  Navidad 
on  the  14th  of  April,  1545.  No  other  expeditions  are  under- 
taken to  California,  until  1596 ;  when  Count  Monterey,  the 
reigning  Viceroy,  receives  an  order  from  Philip  II.  for  mak- 
inor  discoveries  and  settlements  in  California.  In  obedience 
to  this  order,  Sebastian  Viscayno  is  appointed  Captain-general 


I2R 


^  (•  E  \  F.  S       IN       THE      P  A  C    .K  I  C  . 


of  the  Expedition,  and  Capt.  Toribio  Gomez  admiral.  Botk 
are  persons  of  great  worth,  enterprise  and  skill.  Two  ships, 
the  Capitana  and  Ahniranta,  are  purchased,  and  a  frigate  built 
expressly  for  this  service.  There  is  besides  a  barco  longo  for 
surveying  creeks  and  bays,  and  such  other  services  as  cannot 
be  performed  with  deeper  keels.  Three  barefooted  Carmel- 
ites, Padre  Andrez  de  la  Assumpcion,  Padre  Antonio  de  la 
Ascencion,  and  Padre  Tomas  de  Aquino,  accompany  the  ex- 
pedition in  the  capacity  of  spiritual  advisers;  and  Capt.  Alon- 
Eo  Estevan  Peguero  and  Ensign  Caspar  de  Alarcon,  as  coun- 
sellors in  relation  to  the  proceedings  of  the  expedition.  Capt. 
Geronimo  Martin  is  likewise  attached  to  it  as  draughtsman  of 
the  coasts,  islands,  and  harbors  which  shall  be  discovered. 
This  body  of  officers  are  men  of  enterprise  and  skill ;  and  sup- 
ported by  the  best  seamen  in  Spanish  America,  great  results 
are  anticipated  from  the  voyage  ! 

On  the  5th  of  May,  1602,  the  fleet  sails  from  Acapulco. 
Strong  head  winds  and  currents  buffet  them  for  many  days  ; 
but  on  the  19th  of  May,  they  reach  Puerta  La  Navidad,  and 
put  in  to  obtain  ballast  and  repair  the  Capitana.  All  which 
being  dispatched  with  the  utmost  speed,  they  proceed  on  their 
voyage  and  reach  Cape  Corrientes  on  the  26th  of  May. 
Having  surveyed  this  coast,  and  the  adjacent  country,  they 
sail  northward  to  the  Islands  of  Mazatlan.  These  they  reach 
on  the  22d  of  June.  They  are  two  in  number,  lying  near 
each  other,  and  making  a  fine  rpadstead  between  them  and 
the  main  shore.  In  this  the  Capitana  and  Almiranta  come  to 
anchor.  The  frigate  having  been  separated  from  them  soon 
after  leaving  Navidad,  they  fear  she  is  lost ;  but  they  are  glad 
to  find  her  lying  in  a  river  which  empties  into  this  roadstead. 
The  officers  and  priests  visit  one  of  the  islands.  Great  num- 
bers of  sea  birds,  about  the  size  of  a  goose,  having  a  bill 
nearly  half  a  yard  in  length,  legs  resembling  those  of  the 
stork,  and  a  large  crop  in  which  they  carry  small  fish  to  their 
young,  cover  the  beach ;  deer  and  wild  goats  abound  inland* 
These  islands  lie  at  the  entrance  of  the  Gulf  of  California. 


T 


nez  admiral.     Botk 
skill.     Two  ships, 
,  and  a  frigate  built 
es  a  barco  longo  for 
services  as  cannot 
barefooted  Carmel- 
'adre  Antonio  de  la 
I,  accompany  the  ex- 
iers ;  and  Capt.  Alon- 
(le  Alarcon,  as  coun- 
le  expedition.    Capt. 
it  as  draughtsman  of 
I  shall  be  discovered. 
se  and  skill ;  and  sup- 
America,  great  results 

sails  from  Acapulco. 
them  for  many  days  ; 
ierta  La  Navidad,  and 
Capitana.     All  which 
1,  they  proceed  on  their 
on  the  26th  of  May. 
idjacent  country,  they 
an.     These  they  reach 
n  number,  lying  near 
ad  between  them  and 
and  Almiranta  come  to 
arated  from  them  soon 
.  lost ;  but  they  are  glad 
lies  into  this  roadstead, 
e  islands.    Great  num- 

a  goose,  having  a  bill 
isembling  those  of  the 
carry  small  fish  to  their 
Id  goats  abound  inland. 
e  Gulf  of  California. 


T 


1KAVKI,  f*       I  W       1   II  E       C  A  L  I  PO  R  N  I  AS. 


129 


Having  passed  a  part  of  the  day  among  them,  they  steer 
■cross  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf,  and  on  the  9th  of  July  make 
Cape  San  Lucas.  As  they  stand  in,  a  heavy  fog  falls  upon 
them,  and  completely  conceals  the  shore.  For  a  day  and  a 
half  they  lie  thus  enveloped,  out  of  sight  of  each  other,  and 
in  great  (hinger.  At  length  it  clears  up  a  little,  and  the  Al- 
miranta discovers  that  she  is  within  twenty-five  fathoms  of  a 
reef  of  locks,  on  which  she  barely  escapes  being  dashed  in 
pieces.  Having  borne  away  from  so  fearful  a  doom,  they  en- 
ter a  bay  wliere  thi-y  rejoice  to  find  the  frigate  already  an- 
chored. This  is  the  day  of  San  Barnabe,  and  accordingly 
the  harbor  is  nameil  in  honor  of  that  saint. 

Their  attention  is  soon  attracted  to  the  natives,  who,  armed 
with  bows,  arrows,  and  spears,  line  the  shore,  shouting 
fiercely,  and  throwing  sand  in  the  air.  General  VLscayno 
lands  with  twelve  soldiers,  the  priests  and  oflScers.  But  the 
natives  are  so  intimidated  by  the  lightt  I  matches  and  arque- 
buses that  they  are  near  losing  all  communication  with  them, 
when  Padre  Antonio  de  la  Ascencion,  advancing  alone,  mak- 
ing signs  of  peace  and  friendship,  induces  them  to  stop,  em- 
braces them  all  kindly,  and  gives  assurance  that  no  harm  is 
intended  them.  They  now  lay  down  their  arms,  and  intimate 
that  the  soldiers  must  do  the  same  before  they  will  advance. 
The  Padre  conveys  this  wish  to  his  friends,  and  calls  a  little 
negro  boy  to  bring  a  basket  of  biscuit  to  distribute  among 
them.  At  sight  of  the  negro  they  are  greatly  pleased,  and 
tell  him,  by  signs,  that  there  is  a  village  of  people  like  him- 
self not  far  thence,  with  whom  they  are  on  friendly  terms. 
Having  received  beads  and  other  presents,  they  retire  to  their 
rancherias,  or  settlements,  much  pleased,  though  apparently 
not  entirely  free  from  apprehension.  After  this,  the  general 
and  others  walk  about  to  examine  the  shore.  Not  far  distant 
they  observe  a  pond  of  clear  water,  on  the  borders  of  which 
lie  great  quantities  of  sardine  and  pilchard,  which  have  been 
thrown  up  by  the  breakers.    The  next  day  they  visit  another 


SCENES      IN       THE      PACIFIC. 

Bpot,  where  they  find  the  shore  for  some  distance  strewn  with 
pearl  oysters  of  the  most  brilliant  and  various  hues. 

The  little  fleet  lies  in  this  bay  several  days  to  repair,  and 
take  in  wood  and  water.     The  boats,  meantime,  are  kept 
constantly  abroad  taking  fish.     Soles,  lobsters,  pearl  oysters, 
&c.,  are  procured.     The  quail,  wood-pigeon,  rabbits,  hares, 
deer,  lions,  tigers,  are  seen  on  the  hills;  various  kinds  of  trees, 
as  the  pitahaya,  fig,  lentisk,  and  a  great  variety  of  plum 
shrubs,  which,  instead  of  gum,  emit  a  very  fragrant  odor, 
grow  in  the  valleys.     In  the  vicinity  of  the  anchorage  is  a 
low  tract  of  ground  subject  to  be  inundated  by  the  sea,  dur- 
mg  the  prevalence  of  the  southwesterly  winds.     Its  shape  is 
such  that  when  the  waves  retire  a  large  quantity  of  water  is 
left,  which  evp^^orates  and  leaves  a  deposit  of  fine  white  salt. 
The  Indiana  of  this  region  go  entirely  naked.     They  are, 
however,  extremely  fond  of  ornamenting  their  hair,  and  of 
painting  their  bodies  in  black  and  white  stripes. 

Having    finished  the   repairs  about  the  time  the  moon 
changes,  and  having  by  the  distribution  of  goods  produced  a^ 
avoi'able  state  of  feeling  among  the  soldiers,  the  Captam-" 
General,  about  the  first  of  July,  orders  the  squadron  to  put 
to  sea.     But  they  run  only  three  leagues,  when  a  northwest- 
erly wind  springs  up,  which  soon  increases  to  such  a  gale 
that  they  are  compelled  to  put  back  into  the  bay  of  San 
Barnabe.     Three  times  they  stand  out,  and  as  often  are  com- 
pelled to  return.     At  last  they  determine  to  leave  the  barco 
lon<ro,  which  the  Capitana  has  towed,  much  to  the  detriment 
of  her  progress,  and  on  the  5th  of  July,  for  the  fourth  time, 
attempt  to  gain  the  open  see.     The  Almiranta  and  Capitana 
with  great  difficulty  make  some  headway  against  the  tem- 
pest    But  the  frigate  is  obliged  to  part  company,  and  run  m 
under  the  land.    When  the  gale  abates,  the  commander  is 
desirous  of  uniting  with  the  frigate,  and  for  this  purpose  lays 
in  for  the  shore.      On  the  8th  they  make  land  under  the 
brow  of  some  lofty  hills,  where  they  are  becalmed.    This 
range  of  highlands  they  call  Sierra  del  Ei.fado,  or  Mount 


T 


Fl  C. 


TRAVELS      IN       THE       CALtFORNIAS 


131 


istance  strewn  with 
nus  hues. 

days  to  repair,  and 

neantiinc,  are  kept 

sters,  pearl  oysters, 

eon,  rabbits,  hares, 

rious  kinds  ol'  trees, 

at  variety  of  plum 

very  fraprant  odor, 

the  anchorage  is  a 

ted  by  the  sea,  dur- 

vvinds.     Its  shape  is 

quantity  of  water  is 

it  of  fine  white  salt. 

naked.     They  are, 

T  their  hair,  and  of 

stripes. 

the  time  the  moon 
of  goods  produced  a 
oldiers,  the  Captain-' 
the  squadron  to  put 
'S,  when  a  northwest- 
jases  to  such  a  gale 
into  the  bay  of  San 
ind  as  often  are  com- 
ne  to  leave  the  barco 
auch  to  the  detriment 
,  for  the  fourth  time, 
niranta  and  Capitana 
vay  against  the  tem- 
company,  and  run  in 
es,  the  commander  ia 
for  this  purpose  lays 
nake  land  under  the 
are  becalmed.  This 
el  Enfado,  or  Mount 


Tedious.  On  the  16th  a  breeze  fills  their  sails,  and  the  ships 
stand  away  for  the  harbor  de  la  Magdalena.  Here  they  are 
envt'lopt'd  in  a  fog  so  dense  that  a  man  cannot  be  seen  at 
six  paces.  The  Capitana  runs  into  the  harbor,  but  the  Alrai- 
ranta  is  compelled  to  turn  her  prow  seaward.  When  the 
fog  cleare  up,  therefore,  they  have  lost  sight  of  each  other. 
The  people  of  the  Capitana  mount  the  hills  which  skirt  the 
l'a«"bor,  and  build  signal  tires  on  the  heights.  These  are  seen 
by  the  people  of  the  Almiranta ;  but  mistaking  them  for  the 
fires  of  the  Indians,  continue  to  stand  off.  The  Captain-Gene- 
ral now  becomes  very  anxious  for  the  missing  ship  and  fri 
gate  ;  and,  as  soon  as  the  gale  abates,  sails  in  quest  of  them. 
He  first  explores  the  bay  of  San  Jago;  but  not  finding  them 
there,  proceeds  to  Magdalena,  and,  to  the  joy  of  all,  anchors 
near  the  frigate. 

They  weigh  anchor  again  on  Sunday  morning  the  28th 
of  July,  and  that  they  may  not  be  parted  again,  the  Capitana 
takes  the  frigate  in  tow.  A  gale  which  comes  on  from  the 
northwest  after  they  leave  the  harbor,  prevents  them  from 
'standing  as  far  from  the  shore  as  they  desire.  But  they  bear 
away  along  the  coast,  and  soon  after  heave  in  sight  of  a  bay 
which  seems  to  be  formed  by  the  mouth  of  a  river.  This 
the  frigate  is  sent  to  survey.  But  ascertaining  the  mouth  to 
be  crossed  by  a  line  of  impassable  breakers,  they  continue 
their  voyage.  On  the  eighth  of  August  they  discover  another 
bay.  Being  now  very  much  in  want  of  wood,  water,  and 
fresh  food,  some  soldiers  are  sent  on  shore  to  search  for  them. 
The  country,  however,  is  perfectly  barren  and  destitute  of  all. 
An  island  is  in  sight  which  promises  the  required  aid.  It 
proves  to  be  small,  with  a  soil  of  gravel  and  sand,  and 
thronged  with  gulls.  The  creeks  are  frequented  with  im- 
mense numbers  of  sea  wolves,  and  a  great  variety  of  fish. 
The  boat  is  sent  out  with  fishing  tackle,  &c.,  and  in  an  hour 
two  men  take  a  supply  for  both  vessels. 

Transfigiiration  day  is  passed  here ;  and  Padre  Antonio 
celebrates  mass.     After  service,  the  sergeant  and  some  soldiers 


laa 


■  CENCK      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


beiiUf  out  in  search  of  water  and  wood,  find  a  lake  filled  with 
very  rdcmI  salt.     Near  it  are  fomc  pits  containing  braclilsti 
water.     Around  tliise  they  discover  innuntierable  foot  prints, 
and  other  sij^ns  which,  to  their  inexpressible  joy,  clearly  in- 
dicate that  the  crew  of  the  Almiranta  have  been  here  before 
them  !     They  therefore  take  a  small  supply  of  this  miserable 
water,  and  sail  for  the  island  of  Cerros  in  search  of  their  com- 
Danions.     On  their  way  they  pass  a  very  hii,'h  barren  nooun- 
tain  upon  the  main  coast.showing  every  variety  of  color,  on  a 
bright  sliiniiif?  surface.     It  is  alhrmed,  by  a  sailor  from  Peru, 
to  lie  a  bed  of  silver  and  gold  !     They  are  very  desirous  to 
ascertain  if  this  opinion  be  true  ;  but  the  wind  will  not  per- 
mit them  to  land. 

They  soon  after  enter  a  good  harbor,  which  they  name  San 
Barlholome.  Here  the  General  sends  Ensign  Alarcon  and 
some  soldiers  ashore  for  water.  The  only  thing  they  find 
worthy  of  notice  is  a  kind  of  resin,  or  gum,  which  being 
rathpr  offensive  to  the  smell,  they  do  not  think  worth  taking 
to  the  ship.  They  believe  it  to  be  amber,  and  report  enough 
of  it  to  load  a  large  ship.  As  no  water  is  to  be  found  on ' 
this  barren  shore,  they  continue  their  search  for  the  lost 
vessel. 

On  the  last  day  of  August  they  come  to  anchor  at  the  island 
of  Cerros.     While  they  are  furling  their  sails,  Padre  Tomas 
de  Aquino  discovers  the  Almiranta  approaching  them.     The 
most  extravagant  joy  is  manifested  on  board  both  ships  at 
this  meeting.     Capt.  Viscayno  learns  that  she  has  been  lying 
Li  a  fine  harbor  since  the  nineteenth  ;  that  she  has  just  weigh- 
ed for  the  purpose  of  circumnavigating  the  island  in  search 
of  the  Capitana,  and  that  supplies  of  wood,  water,  salt,  &c., 
may  be  had  at  her  last  mooring  ground.     Acconlingly,  the 
little  fleet  runs  into  the  Almiranta's  old  harbor.     Here  the 
General  orders  his  men  to  pitch  a  tent  for  the  Padres,  and 
take  in  suppUes.     But  the  water  is  found  so  remote,  that  the 
General  sends  Ensign  Juan  Francisco  and  Sergeant  Miguel  de 


JL 


[  FIO. 

id  a  lake  filled  with 
contnining  brackish 
nerable  foot  prints, 
lible  joy,  clearly  in- 
ive  been  here  before 
>ly  of  this  miserable 
search  of  their  corn- 
high  barren  moun- 
iriety  of  color,  on  a 
a  sailor  from  Peru, 
re  very  desirous  to 
I  wind  will  not  per- 

irhich  they  name  San 
Cnsign  Alarcon  and 
inly  thing  they  find 

gum,  which  being 
t  think  worth  taking 
r,  and  report  enouj:ft 
it  is  to  be  found  on  * 

search  for  the  lost 

)  anchor  at  the  island 
r  sails,  Padre  Tomas 
roaching  them.     The 

board  both  ships  at 
at  she  has  been  lying 
lat  she  has  just  wcigh- 

the  island  in  search 
.food,  water,  salt,  &c., 
id.  Accordingly,  the 
id  harbor.  Here  the 
:  for  the  Padres,  and 
ul  so  remote,  that  the 
id  Sergeant  Miguel  de 


TRATKL8      IN      THE      CALirORNIAS. 


133 


1 


Legnr  with  twelve  soldiers,  over  the  island,  to  sec  if  there  be 
oot  some  sprmg  or  stream  more  acccssihif. 

After  a  long  seanJi  tlii'y  report  the  discovery  of  a  rivulet 
about  two  leagues  distant.  Everything  is  now  ordered  on 
board  and  the  fleet  proceeds  at  once  to  the  mouth  of  the 
■tream.  While  they  are  taking  in  water,  the  General  orders 
the  frigate  to  make  the  circuit  o(  the  island.  On  their  return, 
the  cosmographer  reports  it  to  be  about  thirty  leagues  in  cir- 
cumference, to  have  high  mountains  covered  with  cedar  and 
pine,  and  to  be  inhabited  by  savages,  who  answered  all  their 
signs  of  peace  with  the  most  threatening  gestures.  On  the 
main  coast  a  large  bay  was  observed,  which  seemed  to  run 
far  inland.  All  the  ships  of  the  fleet  being  supplied  with 
water,  they  set  sail  on  the  ninth  of  September.  Their  course 
is  northerly,  towards  the  main  shore.  They  make  it  on  the 
eleventh,  and  discover  a  fine  bay,  which  they  call  San  Ilypo- 
lito.  Anchois  are  dropped  and  preparations  made  for  sur- 
veys. For  this  purpose  the  General  orders  some  soldiers 
ashore  under  Capt.  Peguero  and  Ensign  Alarcon.  The  coun- 
try is  found  very  beautiful.  A  broad  and  well-beaten  road 
leads  inland  from  the  coast  to  a  large  hut  covered  with  palra- 
•eaves,  capable  of  containing  fifty  persons.  While  returning 
to  the  ship  they  take  a  great  quantity  of  the  best  fish,  on 
which  all  hands  feast  sumptuously.  Thus  fed,  and  joyful  that 
they  have  fcnind  so  desirable  a  country,  they  raise  anchors 
and  stand  up  tl  e  coast. 

As  they  sail  along  they  see  many  large  fires,  which  they 
deem  an  indication  that  Indian  villages  are  numerous.  But 
they  have  proceeded  a  few  leagues  only,  when  a  violent  gale 
springs  up  from  the  northwest,  which  compels  them  to  run  in 
under  some  lofty  hills  bordering  the  sea.  To  the  southeast 
of  this  anchorage  is  seen  a  line  of  white  cliffs  on  which  there 
appear  to  be  a  great  number  of  Indians.  The  General,  there- 
fore, orders  the  frigate  in  shore  with  the  cosmngrapher  to  take 
;  chart  of  the  coast  and  ascertain  the  condition  of  the  natives. 
On  coming  in  close  'inder  the  heights  she  is  becalmed  at  such 


134 


SCENES       FN       THE       H  A  ('  I  F  I  C 


a  distance  from  the  shore  that  they  cannot  hind.  The  sea, 
meanwhile,  running  very  high  outside,  obliges  the  ships  to  lie  to 
for  twenty-four  hours,  during  which  time  the  frigate  drifts  out 
of  sight  and  the  Alniiranta  is  near  fountlering.  In  the  morn- 
ing they  endeavor  to  continue  their  voyage.  But  the  wind 
increases  till  evening,  when  a  thick  fog  envelopes  earth,  sea, 
and  ships.  The  Aliniranta  being  in  much  jeopardy  from  the  in- 
juries received  the  previous  night,  the  General  determines  to 
look  for  some  harbor  where  they  may  be  secure  against  the 
heavy  storm  presaged  by  the  fog.  He  finds  none; but  much  to 
their  surprise,  the  following  day  opens  clear,  and  with  a  gentle 
breeze,  which  carries  them  ofTthe  Mesas,  near  which  the  frigate 
left  them.  TI.c  promises  of  fair  weather,  however,  prove  very 
deceitful ;  for  beibie  night  a  gale,  more  violent  than  any  they 
have  experienced,  and  accompanied  by  a  thick  fog,  overtakes 
them.  The  ships  lie  to  all  night  under  reefed  mainsails  ;  but 
before  morning  they  lose  sight  of  each  other. 

The  General  now  makes  every  effort  lo  fall  in  wi(h  the 
Alniiranta  ;  and  keeping  close  in  shore  for  (his  purjwse,  very 
unexpectedly  meets  the  frigate.  But  as  he  gets  no  tidings  of 
the  ship,  his  fears  for  her  safety  are  not  lessened.  He  there- 
fore puts  into  a  fine  harbor  which  they  have  discovered  north- 
west of  Cape  Enganno,  and  there  awaits  her.  He  believes 
that,  if  still  in  a  sailing  condition,  she  must,  by  pursuing  her 
instructions  in  regard  to  her  course,  necessarily  pass  near  the 
mouth  of  this  bay.  They  call  this  harbor  Bahia  de  San  Fran- 
cisco. In  a  rancheria  near  the  anchorage  they  find  a  species 
of  onions.  Goats'  horns,  also,  are  strewn  over  the  ground. 
The  surrounding  country  is  level,  fertile,  and  very  beautiful. 
The  plains  are  fed  by  large  herds  of  cattle  and  deer.  The 
crew  of  the  frigate  point  out  an  island  a  little  north  of  the 
anchorage  which  they  call  San  Geronimo ;  and  the  Captain- 
General  orders  some  of  the  seamen  ashore  to  examine  it.  It 
proves  to  be  heavily  wooded,  and  frequented  by  immense  flocks 
of  birds.  Its  shoals  abound  in  the  finest  cod  and  other  fish 
Of  these  they  take  a  supply  for  all  the  ships.     Beyond  the 


T 


TRAVEi-S       IN       THE       CAUIFORN      A8 


135 


M  F  IC 

lot  hmd.    The  sea, 
ges  the  ships  to  lie  to 
the  frigite  drifts  out 
;ring.     In  the  morn- 
age.     But  the  wind 
?nvelopes  earth,  sea, 
jeopardy  from  the  in- 
Jeneral  determines  to 
be  secure  against  the 
ds  none; but  much  to 
ar,  and  with  a  gentle 
near  which  the  frigate 
,  however,  prove  very 
violent  than  any  they 
a  thick  fog,  overtakes 
reefed  mainsails  ;  but 
other. 

fort  to  fall  in  with  the 
for  this  purjiose,  very 
s  he  gets  no  tidings  of 
t  lessened.     He  there- 
have  discovered  north- 
tits  her.     He  believes 
must,  by  pursuing  her 
cessarily  pass  near  the 
bor  Bahia  de  San  Fran- 
age  they  find  a  species 
rewn  over  the  ground, 
ile,  and  very  beautiful, 
cattle  and  deer.     The 
ad  a  little  north  of  the 
limo  ;  and  the  Captain- 
;hore  to  examine  it.     It 
jented  by  immense  flocks 
lest  cod  and  other  fish 
the  ships.    Beyond  the 


island  they  discover  a  large  bay  into  which  a  considerable 
creek  empties  itself  with  a  strong  current.  The  frigate  goes 
in  to  survey  it.  They  observe  great  numbers  of  naked  Indi- 
ans fiihing  in  the  creek,  who  approach  the  Spaniards  with  the 
liveliest  marks  of  joy,  offer  them  the  best  of  their  fish,  and 
show  them  several  wells  of  pure  fresh  water.  When  these 
things  are  reported  to  Captain  Viscayno,  he  orders  a  tent  to 
be  pitched  for  the  celebration  of  mass,  and  preparations  made 
to  lie  here  till  the  Almiranta  comes  up,  or  all  hope  of  her  is  lost. 

They  take  in  wood  and  water.  Every  morning  the  Indi- 
ans bring  them' a  supply  of  fish  for  the  day,  and  pay  such 
deference  to  the  Spaniards,  that  they  never  visit  the  rancherias 
in  the  neighborhood,  without  first  soliciting  the  permission 
of  the  General  and  the  Padres.  The  Spaniards  return  their 
courtesy  with  trifling  presents,  which  enlist  their  wonder  and 
admiration  so  deeply,  that  immense  numbers  of  Indian  men, 
and  women  with  two  infants  each,  flock  from  the  neighboring 
rancherias ;  pronounce  Spanish  words  after  the  soldiers ; 
eat  with  them ;  and  in  other  ways  show  a  disposition  to  culti- 
vate the  most  friendly  and  intimate  acquaintance.  The  fe- 
males are  clad  in  skins,  and  show  much  propriety  of  conduct. 
These  Indians  carry  on  a  considerable  trade  with  their  inland 
neighbors  by  furnishing  them  with  fish,  and  receiving  in  re- 
turn net  purses,  curiously  wrought,  and  a  root  called  mexcalli 
or  maguey,  boiled  and  prepared  as  a  conserve.  Of  both 
these  articles  they  give  great  quantities  to  the  Spaniards 
in  return  for  the  beads  and  other  trifles.  They  in- 
form their  visitors  that  up  in  the  country  there  are  a  great 
many  people  who  wear  clothes  and  beads,  and  have  fire-arras. 
They  are  supposed  to  refer  to  Onate's  land  expedition  from 
Mexico. 

Having  now  abandoned  all  hope  of  the  Almiranta,  it  being 
twenty-eight  days  since  she  parted  from  them,  the  General, 
on  the  twenty-fourth  of  October,  stands  out  to  sea.  Just  as 
he  leaves  the  bay,  to  his  great  astonishment  and  joy,  the 
long  absent  ship  is  seen  approaching. 


136 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


Being  now  all  united  again,  the  General  gives  orders  ♦ 
continue  the  voyage,  and  run  into  the  first  harbor  discovered. 
They  soon  see  a  large  bay,  which  the  tender  is  ordered  to  ex  ■ 
plore.     It  is  well  sheltered  from  the  northwest   winds ;  but 
as  its  shores  are  lined  with  great  numbers  of  warlike  Indians 
instead  of  landing  they   proceed  up  the  coast.     A  north 
wester,  however,  soon  obliges  them  to  put  back,  and  come  to 
anchor.    This  being  the  anniversary  of  St.  Simon  and  St 
Jude,  they  give  the  name  of  both  saints  to  the  bay.     The  next 
morning  Captain  Peguero  and  Ensign  Alarcon  are  sent  ashore 
with  some  soldiers  to  look  for  wood  and  fresh  water.     Fmd- 
ing  none  of  the  latter,  they  dig  some  wells  in  a  moist  spot 
overgrown  with  sedge   and   flags.     While  doing  this,  the 
Indians  seem  very  brisk  and  bold;  but  do  not  molest  the 
Spaniards  till  some  presents  are  offered  them.     Construing 
this  act  into  a  sign  of  fear  on  the  part  of  their  visitors,  they 
at  once  become  impudent,  attempt  to  steal,  and  even  go  so 
far  as  to  try  to  take  one  of  the  boats  from  the  boys  who  are 
left  in  charge  of  it.     To  deter  them  from  further  violence,  one 
of  the  soldiers,  as  they  are  going  off  to  the  ship,  fires  his 
piece  in  the  air.     But  the  Indians  finding  no  one  hurt,  grow 
more  insolent  than  ever  ;  and  the  next  day  when  a  small  party 
goes  on  shore  to  obtain  water,  they  become  so  very  trouble- 
some that  two  soldiers  who  have  their  matches  lighted  order 
Ihem  to  stand  back.     But  this  only  increases  their  audacity. 
One  of  them  throws  his  bow  over  the  head  rf  a  soldier.    The 
,,ilGt  draws  his  sabre,  and  severs  it.     They  now  draw  up  m 
form,  and  place  their  arrows  on   their  bow-strin(j.     The 
soldiers,  who  have  lighted  matches,  are  ordered  to  fire  upon 
them!     In   a  moment  six  Indians  lie  bleeding  upon  the 
sand!    Their  companions  snatch  them  up  and  bear  thein 

""^The  news  of  this  occurrence  spreads  like  the  wind  among 
the  neighboring  rancherios,  and  in  a  short  time  two  hundred 
Indians  painted  fiercely,  wearing  pl--  upon  their  heads 
and  armed  v^ith  bows  and  arrows,  rush  down  to  attack  the 


I  Fl  C  . 

eral  gives  orders* 
5t  harbor  discovered, 
der  is  ordered  to  ex  • 
rthwest   winds;  but 
i  of  warlike  Indians 
lie  coast.     A  north 
lit  back,  and  come  to 
f  St.  Simon  and  St 
)  the  bay.     The  next 
larcon  are  sent  ashore 

fresh  water.  Find- 
ells  in  a  moist  spot 
'hile  doing  this,  the 
it  do  not  molest  the 
iA  them.  Construing 
of  their  visitors,  they 
teal,  and  even  go  so 
rom  the  boys  who  are 
a  further  violence,  one 

to  the  ship,  fires  his 
ig  no  one  hurt,  grow 
ay  when  a  small  party 
;come  so  very  tro\ible- 
raatches  lighted,  order 
creases  their  audacity, 
lead  rf  a  soldier.    The 
They  now  draw  up  in 
,cir  bow-strings.     The 
•e  ordered  to  fire  upon 
lie  bleeding  upon  the 
;m  up  and  bear  them 

As  like  the  wind  among 
short  time  two  hundred 
umes  upon  their  heads, 
ush  down  to  attack  the 


TRAVELS       fN       THE       CALIFORNIAS. 


137 


Spaniards.  The  Ensign,  on  seeing  them,  orders  his  men  to 
make  ready  The  Indians,  however,  do  not  relish  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  arquebuses,  and  remain  at  a  distance,  talk- 
ing and  gesticulating  in  the  most  earnest  manner.  At  length 
tlicy  send  one  of  their  number  witli  a  little  tlog,  in  token  cf 
their  desire  to  make  peace.  The  man,  while  making  the  treaty, 
eyes  the  arquebuses  very  keenly,  and  signifies  that  four  of  his 
people  are  already  deceased,  and  others  dying  of  their  wounds ; 
and  in  token  of  their  sincere  wish  not  to  hear  from  these  gods 
of  fire  again,  he  makes  a  number  of  presents  to  the  soldiers 
who  bear  them,  and  retires. 

The  squadron  leaves  the  bay  on  Wednesday  the  first  of 
November.  Continuing  along  the  coast,  they  come  to  the 
mouth  of  a  very  large  bay,  sheltered  on  all  sides,  except  the 
sea-ward  one,  by  lofty  mountains.  It  is  protected  at  the 
entrance  by  two  islands,  which  they  call  Todos  Santos.  The 
frigate  and  the  Alrairanta  run  in  to  make  surveys.  But  the 
Capitana  standing  olT,  and  night  approaching,  they  dread 
another  separation  so  much  that  they  put  out  and  rejoin  the 
General.  The  next  morning  preparations  are  made  to  enter 
it  again,  for  a  more  deliberate  examination.  But  a  favorable 
breeze  springing  up,  they  conclude  to  leave  it  for  their  re- 
turn, and  continue  the  voyage. 

On  the  fifth  of  November  they  fall  in  with  four  islands, 
which  they  call  Coronadas.  On  the  tenth  they  enter  the  fa- 
mous harbor  of  San  Diego.  The  day  after  their  arrival,  En- 
sign Alarcon,  Captain  Peguero  and  eight  soldiers  are  sent  out 
to  explore.  They  first  direct  their  stops  to  a  heavy  forest 
which  lies  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  bay.  This  is  ascer- 
tained to  be  about  three  leagues  in  width  and  half  a  one  in 
breadth.  The  trees  are  chiefly  oaks,  with  an  undergrowth  of 
fragrant  shrubs.  Obtaining  a  fine  view  of  the  bay  from  the 
heights,  they  ascertain  it  to  be  spacious,  land-locked,  and 
every  way  desirable;  and  returning  to  the  ships,  report  such 
to  be  its  character.  This  result  being  deemed  satisfactory  by 
the  jreneral,  he  orders  a  tent  pitched  on  shore  for  the  celebra- 


138 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC 


tion  of  mass,  and  preparation  to  be  made  for  repairing  the 
ships.  One  part  of  the  crews  therefore  is  assigned  to  clean 
and  tallow  the  hulls,  another  to  fill  the  water  casks,  and 
another  to  procure  wood  and  keep  guard. 

One  day  when  each  department  is  employed  at  its  appoint^ 
cd  task,  a  sentinel  posted  in  the  forest  sees  a  large  "body  of 
Indians  coming  along  the  shore,  naked,  painted  with  red  and 
white  colors,  and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  In  order  if 
possible,  to  avoid  bloodshed,  the  General  desires  Padre  Anto- 
nio to  go  and  offer  them  peace.  He  is  accompanied  by  En- 
sign Juan  Francisco  and  six  soldiers.  Signs  of  peace  being 
made  with  a  bit  of  white  linen,  the  Indians  immediately  de- 
liver their  arms.  The  Padre  embraces  them  all  affectionate- 
ly ;  and  thus  the  best  understanding  is  at  once  established. 
But  observing  so  large  a  number  of  persons  on  board  the 
ships,  they  retire  in  much  apprehension ;  and  after  consulting 
some  time  together,  send  two  of  their  women  alone  to  the 
tent.  They  approach  with  a  timid  air ;  but  being  kindly  re- 
ceived and  presented  with  beads,  biscuit,  &c.,  they  return  and 
make  such  a  report  to  their  people  as  soon  brings  the  whole 
troop  down  to  the  water  side.  They  are  generally  naked  ; 
the"i' bodies  striped  with  white  and  black  paint;  and  their 
heads  loaded  with  feathers.  Their  light  paint  seems  to  the 
voyagers,  to  be  compounded  of  silver  and  other  materials ; 
and  on  being  asked  what  it  is,  they  give  the  Spaniards  a  piece 
of  metallic  ore,  saying,  "it  is  made  from  this."  They  add 
that  far  up  in  the  country  there  are  many  people,  wearing 
beads  and  clothes  like  theiis,  who  make  of  this  metal  such 
ornaiiicnts  as  the  Gt-neia!  has  un  his  purple  velvet  doublet. 

All  desirable  preparations  being  made,  they  sail  from  this 
beautiful  bay  of  San  Diego.  While  they  have  tarried  in  it, 
many  of  the  crew  who  had  been  sick  of  the  scurvy,  have  re- 
covered, and  many  others  have  died.  It  is  a  sorrowful  occa- 
sion for  those  who  still  live,  to  part  from  the  graves  of  their 
companions.  1  hey  are  interred  on  the  borders  of  the  magni- 
ficent forest  northwest  of  the  bay ;  and  the  well  known  trees 


T 


FIC 


TKAVELS      IN      THE      CAIIFORNIAS. 


1S9 


e  for  repairing  the 
IS  assigned  to  clean 
e  water  casks,  and 

loyed  at  its  appoint- 
lees  alarge'body  of 
tainted  with  red  and 
rrows.     In  order  if 
desires  Padre  Anto- 
accompanied  by  En- 
igns  of  peace  being 
ians  immediately  de- 
ihem  all  affectionate- 
,  at  once  established, 
persons  on  board  the 
;  and  after  consulting 
women  alone  to  the 
(  but  being  kindly  re- 
;,  &c.,  they  return  and 
soon  brings  the  whole 
are  generally  naked ; 
lack  paint;  and  their 
ht  paint  seems  to  the 
and  other  materials; 
e  the  Spaniards  a  piece 
from  this."     They  add 
many  people,  wearing 
,ke  of  this  metal  such 
)Uipie  velvet  doublet, 
ide,  they  sail  from  this 
they  have  tarried  in  it, 
of  the  scurvy,  have  re- 
It  is  a  sorrowful  occa- 
:rom  the  graves  of  their 
tie  borders  of  the  magni- 
nd  the  well  known  treea 


vhich  spread  their  branches  over  them,  are  discernible  aa 
they  leave  the  laud  !  They  scarcely  clear  the  headlands  of 
the  harbor  when  a  terrible  northwester  comes  down  upon 
them  and  changes  their  grief  to  fear.  They  see  another  voy- 
age begun  which  may  terminate  their  own  lives.  But  they 
keep  their  course  and  soon  make  another  large  bay.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  level,  beautiful  country,  the  inbnbitants  of 
which  make  fires  on  the  heights  along  the  coast,  a. id  by  every 
sign  in  their  power,  invite  the  fleet  to  anchor.  On  approach- 
ing the  land,  however,  they  find  no  shelter  from  the  northwest 
wind  and  stand  out  again  to  sea.  A  few  leagues  brings  them 
to  the  large  island  of  Santa  Catarina. 

On  the  twenty-eighth  they  anchor  in  the  bay.  The  in- 
habitants of  Santa  Catarina  make  the  most  noisy  and  earnest 
invitations  for  them  to  land.  The  General  therefore  orders 
Admiral  Gomez,  Capt.  Peguero,  and  Ensign  Alarcon,  with 
twenty-four  soldiers,  to  land  on  the  island,  and  learn  what  the 
natives  so  earnestly  desire.  As  soon  as  they  reach  the  shore, 
they  are  surrounded  by  Indian  men  and  women,  who  treat 
them  with  much  kindness  and  propriety,  and  intimate  that 
they  have  seen  other  Spaniards.  When  asked  for  water  they 
give  it  to  the  whites  in  a  sort  of  bottle,  made  of  rushes. 

They  explore  the  island.  It  appears  to  be  overgrown  with 
savin  and  a  species  of  briar.  A  tent  is  pitched  for  religious 
service,  and  Pache  Tomas  being  ill.  Padres  Antonio  and  An- 
drez  celebrate  mass  in  presence  of  all  the  people.  These  In- 
dians spend  much  of  their  time  in  taking  the  many  varieties 
of  fish  which  abound  In  the  bay.  They  have  boats  made  of 
plank,  capable  of  containing  twenty  persons.  In  these  they 
carry  long  slender  poles,  to  which  harpoons  of  fish-bone  are 
attached  by  long  ropes.  They  strike  wLh  the  harpoon  and 
pay  out  rope  till  the  fish  is  unable  to  run  longer,  and  then  if 
it  be  small,  take  it  into  the  boat,  or  if  large  tow  it  ashore. 
They  prize  the  sea-wolf  most  highly,  as  well  on  account  of  its 
flesh,  which  th«Y  eat,  as  its  skin,  of  which  they  make  most  ot 
their  clothing. 


140 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


I  I 
T  1 


The  women  of  this  tribe  are  beautiful,  modest,  and  ex- 
tremely well  conducted.     The  chiltlren  have  fine  complexioni 
and  are  very  amiable.    They  live  in  large  huts,  dispersed  m 
ran.herias,  and  have  many  convenient  utensils  made  of  rushes 
Their  island  abounds  in  a  small  root  resembling  the  common 
potato,  which  is  much  prized  as  an  article  of  food.     On  this 
island  is  a  very  large  level  em-losure,  with  an  altar  in  the 
centre  surrounded  by  a  circular  wall  or  partition  of  various 
colored   feathers.      Within   this  circle   is   a  figure  painted 
with  a  <vreat  variety  of  hues,  and  resembling  the  image  by 
which  the  Indians  of  Mexico  typify  the  devil.     In  its  hands 
are  the  figures  of  the  Sun  and  Moon.     As  the  soldiers  ap- 
proach this  place  they  discover  two  very  large  crows  within 
the  enclosure,  which  rise  on  their  coming  up  and  alight  on 
some  rocks  in  the  vicinity.     Before  the  guide  can  remonstrate, 
their  pieces  are  levelled  and  both  birds  fall.     This  act  calls 
forth  the  bitterest  lamentations  from  the  Indian,  who  evidently 
re-ards  them  as  sacred  to  his  deity.     Santa  Catarina  has  se- 
ve";al  fine  harbors.     It  abounds  in  partridges,  quails,  rabbits, 
hare  and  deer.     The  people  are  very  numerous,  and  exhibit 
much  ingenuity  in  pilfering  from  their  visitors. 

On  the  twenty-first  of  December  the  squadron  leaves  Santa 
Catarina  to  explore  other  islands  which  extend  in  a  line  nearly 
one  hundred  leagues  up  the  coast.    They  are  found  to  be  inhab- 
ited by  shrewd,  active  people,  who  trade  much  among  them- 
selves and  with  their  neighbors  on  the  continent.     Between 
a  portion  of  them  and  the  main  land  is  a  channel  called  the 
Canal  de  Santa  Barbara.     After  exploring  them,  the  fleet 
puts  back  to  the  continent,  near  the  southern  mouth  of  this 
channel.     Before  they  reach  the  s'.ore,  however,  four  men 
come  up  to  the  Capitana,  and  row  three  times  round   her 
with  the  most  astonishing  swiftness,  all  the  while  chanting  a 
kind  of  wild  measure,  similar  to  what  the  Indians  of  Mexico 
call  almatote.     By  this  the  Spaniards  understand  that  they 
have  the  Indian  king  or  cacique  on  board.    And  so  it  proves ; 
for  when  the  ceremony  is  over,  hJ  majesty  steps  on  board  the 


Fi  r. 

,  modest,  and  ex- 

e  fine  complexions 

huts,  dit;|)ersed  in 

si)s  made  of  rushes 

nbling  the  common 

of  food.     On  this 

nth  an  altar  in  the 

lartition  of  various 

1   a   figure  painted 

ing  the  image  by 

evil.     In  its  hands 

As  the  soldiers  ap- 

large  crows  within 

ig  up  and  alight  on 

jide  can  remonstrate, 

Fall.     This  act  calls 

ndian,  who  evidently 

ita  Catarina  has  se- 

idges,  quails,  rabbits, 

imerous,  and  exhibit 

isitors. 

quadron  leaves  Santa 
Ktend  in  a  line  nearly 
are  found  to  be  inhab- 
e  much  among  thera- 
continent.     Between 
i  a  channel  called  the 
bring  them,  the  fleet 
juthern  mouth  of  this 
;,  however,  four  men 
liree  times  round  her 
the  while  chanting  a 
the  Indians  of  Mexico 
understand  that  they 
d.     And  so  it  proves ; 
;sty  steps  on  board  the 


TRAVELS       IN       THE      CALIFORNIA!?.  1 

Capitana,  and  after  walking  three  times  around  the  quarter- 
deck, addresses  himself  in  a  long  speech  to  the  General  and 
his  officers.  This  being  concluded,  he  adopts  the  more  intel- 
ligible method  of  signs,  to  inform  the  Spaniards  that  the  na- 
tives of  Santa  Catarina  have  sent  his  majesty  advices  of  the'  r 
visit,  and  have  also  spoken  of  their  bravery,  generosity,  and 
the  many  presents  made  by  them.  All  these  things  have 
kindled  in  his  majesty  a  desire  to  cultivate  the  acquaintance 
of  such  illustrious  persons ;  and  he  backs  his  protestations  of 
regard  by  the  proposition  to  furnish  them  with  everything 
they  desire  to  eat  and  drink,  and  with  the  moderate  supply 
of  ten  women  each  !  To  prove  his  ability  m  this  last  offer, 
himself  and  son  will  remain  as  hostages  while  one  of  the  sol- 
diers shall  go  on  shore  and  ascertain  the  fact.  As  it  is  near 
night,  however,  the  General  very  ungallantly  declines  his 
oiler  in  behalf  of  himself  and  crew ;  and  his  majesty  at  length 
departing,  it  is  thought  best  to  improve  the  fair  wind  then 
coming  on,  to  prosecute  the  voyage.  Setting  all  sail,  there- 
fore, they  progress  rapidly  till  they  nearly  complete  the  sur- 
vey of  the  channel.  The  breeze  leaves  them  opposite  a 
cluster  of  islands,  six  in  number,  and  about  two  leagues  dis- 
tant from  each  other.  The  channel  is  ascertained  to  be  about 
twenty- four  leagues  in  length.  The  main  coast  is  beautifully 
diversified  with  woodland  and  lawn,  among  which  are  several 
Indian  villages. 

The  following  night  the  wind  changes  to  northwest,  and 
blows  a  tremendous  gale  for  about  sixty  hours.  The  waters 
in  the  channel  are  lifted  into  mountains.  The  ships  are  driven 
almost  uncontrolled  among  the  islands.  The  greatest  fear 
prevails  that  all  will  be  lost.  On  the  third  day,  however,  the 
tempest  abates.  The  Capitana  and  Almiranta  are  safe,  and 
with  the  fair  weather  stand  in  for  the  continent.  But  the  fri- 
gate is  missing.  The  coast  is  skirted  with  lofty  mountains 
which  shelter  some  fine  bays.  From  one  of  these,  four  ca- 
noes run  out  at  the  same  moment,  filled  with  savages  bring- 
ing a  large  quantity  of  excellent  sardines.    These  IrKlians 


1     • 


ii 


142 


SrENKS     IN     TItK     PAriFIC. 


aro  tnll,   fine-looking   people.     Thoy    cover    them«olvn«    w,tli 

u.mt-Rkins  beforo  entering  the  »bipR;  nnd   ah  if  sensiMe   tlu.t 

language   not  understood  would  l.e  of  no  nse,  tl-y  utter  n..t 

a  word,  but  express  their  thoujrhts   by  siirus.     Api-eanufr   very 

good-natured,   an.l  not  disposed   to  ,.ilfer,   tlie   SpunLuds   j.te- 

sent  to  them  some  clothing  ami   tniikeUs  with  whuh  ih.y 

seem  delighted.      The    next  day,  others  coming  on    board 

urge    the    General     to    bring   his   ships   to   their   cov.nlry, 

in 'order  that  they  may  furnish  him  with  plenty  of  fish  and 

acorns. 

The  frigate  now  rejoins  the  ships.  She  has  been  dnv.-i. 
among  the  islands,  an.l  experienced  much  hospitality  fron* 
the  natives.  They  now  all  get  under  way  and  stand  neairr 
the  shore  in  search  of  a  harbor.  The  whole  coast  has  been 
enveloped  in  a  thick  fog  since  the  gale.  A  fair  wind,  how- 
ever, springing  up,  they  run  along  the  edge  of  the  mist  till  the 
fourteenlh  of  January,  when  the  weather  clearing,  they  hn.l 
themselves  under  a  ridge  of  high  mouHtains,  white  at  the 
top,  and  clotiied  with  wood  at  the  base.  This  range  they 
call  Sierra  de  Santa  Lucia.  Four  leagues  beyond  it  a  river 
tumbles  through  a  ledge  of  rocks  inio  the  sea.  Its  banks  are 
covered  with  black  and  white  poplar,  willow,  birch,  and  pine. 
This  stream  they  call  Rio  San  Carmelo. 

Two  leagues  farther  on  is  a  splendid  harbor,  between  which 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Carmelo,  is  a  heavy  pine  wood,  form- 
ing a  cape.  This  is  Punto  de  Pinos.  In  this  harbor  the 
squadron  comes  to  anchor.  The  crews  are  very  much 
reductJ  by  sickness.  The  master  and  mate  of  the  Al- 
miianta  are  both  unable  to  leave  their  births;  the  Captain- 
General  and  his  mate  are  scarcely  able  to  appear  on  deck  ;  a 
trreat  many  of  the  soldiers  and  boys  are  very  sick ;  and 
sixteen  have  died  since  leaving  Bahia  de  San  Francisco. 
Under  these  circumstances  it  is  resolved  that  tne  Aimiranta 
shall  be  sent  back  under  the  command  of  Admiral  Gomez, 
with  the  two  pilots  Pasqual  and  Balthazar,  and  all  the  sick; 
th  t  she  shall  take  r.  sulficient  number  of  sound  men  to  man 


IFIC. 

vcr  t1iPnisolvn«  with 
(I   fts  it'  spiisililt!   Hint 

0  usf,  tl-y  uttiT  iit.t 
rns.  Apiieaiinp  very 
r,  tlie  Spniiiards  jne- 
'As,  with  which  tli.  y 
•s  coming  on  hoard 
ps  to  their  counliy, 
ith  plenty  of  fish  anil 

She  has  heen  driven 
inch  hospitahty  Iroiu 
,vay  and  stand  nearer 
whole  coaol  has  been 
!,  A  iair  wind,  liou- 
Ige  ot  the  mist  till  the 
ler  cliarini>-,  they  tiiitl 
)UHtains,  white  at  the 
se.  This  range  they 
lies  heyond  it  a  river 
he  sea.  Its  hanks  are 
rillow,  birch,  and  pine. 

harbor,  between  which 
eavy  pine  wood,  I'oim- 
5.  In  this  harbor  the 
;rews  are  very  much 
and  mate  of  the  Al- 
•  births;  the  Captain- 

1  to  appear  on  deck  ;  a 
s  are  very  sick ;  and 
lia  de  San  Francisco, 
ed  that  tne  Aimiranta 
id  of  Admiral  Gomez, 
hazar,  and  all  the  sick ; 
r  of  sound  men  to  man 


TRAVELS      IM      THE      C A  L I  f  0 R N C  A  S  . 


143 


her ;  and  that  the  rest  shall  go  on  board  of  the  Capitana  and 
frigate.  The  General  will  send  advices  and  a  chart  of  all  his 
discoveries,  with  a  request  that  a  reinforcement  and  supplies 
may  be  sent  on  early  in  the  spring,  to  enable  him  to  complete 
the  survey  of  the  coast  and  Gulf. 

In  accordance  with  this  arrangement  the  sick  are  put  on 
board  with  great  care;  Padre  Thomes  de  Aquino  is  assigned  to 
accompany  them,  and  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  January  the 
Aimiranta  sets  sail  for  Acapulco.     Th.  disease  which  preys 
so  distressingly  and  fatally  on  the  ships'  crews  is  one  of  a  very 
singular  character.     It  is  supposed  to  arise  from  the  action  of 
the  cold  winds  of  this  region  upon  the  relaxed  constitutions 
of  persons  who  come  into  it  from  warmer  climates.     The  pa- 
tient is  seized  with  violent  pains  throughout  the  system,  which 
are  soon  followed  by  such  extreme  sensibility  as  forbids  the 
slightest  touch.     This  latter  symptom  is  often  so  excruciating 
as  to  draw  tears  and  groans  from  the  stoutest  men.     Soon 
after  this  the  surface  becomes  spotted  with  an  eruption  of  a 
purple  color,  fine  and  sharp,  feeling  as  if  shot  were  inserted 
under  the  skin.     These  are  followed  by  wales  or  lines  of  the 
same  color,  similar  to  those  raised  by  the  infliction  of  severe 
blows.     They  are  about  the  width  of  two  fingers ;  appear 
first  on  the  upper  posterior  portion  of  the  thigh ;  but  soon 
spread  themselves  to  the  flexure  of  the  knee.    V.'herever  they 
appear  the  parts  become  rigid,  and  remain  in  the  position  in 
which  they  were  first  seized.    The  whole  system  now  swells 
prodigiously,  and  the  patient  cannot  be  moved  in  any  manner 
without  suffering  extreme  torture.     The  disease  finally  ex- 
tends itself  to  all  parts  of  the  body,  affecting  particularly  the 
shoulders,  head  and  loins,  and  causing  the  most  distressing 
pains  in  the  Kidneys.    No  relief  can  be  obtained  by  change 
of  position ;  for  the  slightest  motion  is  agony.    In  time  the 
entire  body  is  covered  with  ulcers  so  exceedingly  sensitive 
that  the  pressure  of  the  lightest  bed  covering  is  intolerable. 
At  length  the  gums  and  jaws  swell  so  that  the  mouth  cannot 
be  closed,  and  in  manj  cases  the  teeth  droo  out !    The  vio- 


I; 


V 


144 


8CKNK8      IN      THK      PACIFIC 


lence  of  the  disease  and  the  debility  arising  from  it  arc  such, 
that  the  patients  frequently  <lie  while  talking  with  their 
friends.  Such  is  the  dreadful  pestilence  that  has  swept  the 
Captain-General's  ranks,  and  now  fills  the  Almiranta  with 
groans,  shrieks,  prayers  and  curses  ! 

While  she  is  making  her  way  back  to  Acapulco,  the  Capi- 
tana  and  frigate  remain  in  the  harbor  of  Monterey  to  take  in 
wood  and  water,  and  explore  the  adjacent  country.    They 
Hnd  this  finely  diversified  with  lawns  and  groves  of  pine,  firs, 
willow  and  poplars,  with  an  abundant  undergrowth  of  roses 
and  fragrant  shrubs.     The  open  lands  are  also  dotted  with 
clear,  pure  lakes.     The  country  is  inhabited  by  a  great  vari- 
ety of  wild  beasts.     A  large  bear,  a  species  of  horned  cattle 
similar  in  size  and  shape  to  the  buffalo,  and  another  which, 
from  the  description,  might  be  ancestor   of  the  Jlmerkana 
HorribUis,  are  among  the  most  remarkable.     The  voyagers 
give  to  this  latter  beast  the  size  of  the  wolf,  the  form  and 
horns  of  the  stag,  the  skin  and  neck  of  the  pelican,  a  tail  half 
a  yard  in  width  and  twice  as  long,  and  a  cloven  foot !     If  it 
were  a  native,  one  might  be  led  to  speculate  on  the  propin- 
quity of  sulphur !     The  country  also  abounds  in  deer,  rabbits, 
hare,  wild-cats,  bustards,  geese,  ducks,  pigeons,  partridges, 
thrushes,  sparrows,  goldtinches,  cranes,  vultures,  and  another 
bird  about  the  size  of  a  turkey.     On  the  seaboard  are  great 
numbers  of  gulls,  cormorants,  and  other  sea-fowl.     The  sea 
abounds  in  oysters,  lobsters,  crabS,  sea-wolves,  porpoises  and 
whales.     On  the  shores  are  many  rancharias,  the  residents  of 
which  are  an  affable,  generous  people,  living  under  some  form 
of  government.     They  use  the  native  arms  and  subsist  chiefly 
on  fish  and  game.     They  seem  fond  of  the  Spaniards,  and  ex- 
p,  rss  the  most  sincere  sorrow  at  their  intention  to  leave  them 
But  this  is  unavoidable.     Both  vessels  run  out  of  the  harbor 
with  a  fair  wind,  on  the  fifth  day  of  January,  1603,  and  stand 
away  northward. 

Soon  after  passing  the  harbor  of  San  Francisco,  in  Lat  37 
45',  they  lose  sight  of  each  other,  and  the  Capitana  puts 


I  FI  C  . 

ig  from  it  arc  such, 
talking  with  their 
that  has  swept  the 
the  Almivanta  with 

Acapulco,  the  Capi- 
Monterey  to  take  in 
;ent  country.    They 

groves  of  pine,  firs, 
ndergrowth  of  roses 
ire  also  dotted  with 
ited  by  a  great  vari- 
cies  of  horned  cattle 
,  and  another  which, 
r   of  the  Americana 
able.     The  voyagers 
e  wolf,  the  form  and 
he  pelican,  a  tail  half 
I  a  cloven  foot !     If  it 
'culate  on  the  propin- 
ounds  in  deer,  rabbits, 
,  pigeons,  partridges, 

vultures,  and  another 
he  seaboard  are  great 
er  sea-fowl.     The  sea 
wolves,  porpoises  and 
harias,  the  residents  of 
iving  under  some  form 
rms  and  subsist  chiefly 
the  Spaniards,  and  ex- 
ntention  to  leave  them 
run  out  of  the  harbor 
nuary,  1603,  and  stand 

n  Francisco,  in  Lat  37° 
md  the  Capitana  puts 


TRAVKI.S      IN       THE      CALIFORNIAt. 


145 


back  into  it,  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  frigate,  and  also  to 
survey  the  harbor  and  surrounding  country.  Another  reason 
which  the  Captain-Cieneral  has  lor  wishing  to  stop  here  is  to 
ascertain  if  there  be  any  remains  of  the  San  Augustine,  which 
had  been  driven  ashore  in  1595  with  other  vessels  sent  by 
the  Qoverninent  from  the  Philippine  Islands,  to  survey  the 
coast  of  California.  The  pilot  of  this  squadron,  Francisco 
Valanos,  is  ac(iuainted  with  the  country.  He  reports  that 
they  left  a  large  cargo  of  wax  and  several  chests  of  silk  on 
the  shore  of  this  harbor.  The  General,  therefore,  runs  the 
Capitana  in,  and  anchors  her  behind  a  point  of  land  called 
Punta  de  los  Reyes.  Hocorning  more  anxious,  however,  for  the 
fate  of  the  frigate,  he  weighs  the  next  day  and  runs  out  in 
search  of  her.  A  gentle  northwester  takes  him  up  the  coast 
within  sight  of  Cape  Mendocino,  when  a  violent  southwester, 
accompanied  by  sleet  and  a  heavy  sea,  combined  with  the 
sickly  state  of  the  crew,  induces  him  to  seek  a  southerly 
harbor,  in  which  to  await  the  coming  of  spring  and  the  rein- 
forcement from  Mexico. 

They  are  now  in  a  deplorable  state.  Six  seamen  only  are 
able  to  be  on  deck.  Tiie  officers  are  all  sick.  The  Padres 
are  scarcely  able  to  administer  the  last  rites  to  the  dying ; 
and  the  few  well  ones  are  in  dreadful  consternation  lest  a 
storm  come  on,  and  the  ship  go  down,  for  want  of  men  to 
manage  her.  This  determination  of  General  Viscayno, 
therefore,  raises  the  spirits  of  the  healthy,  and  cheers  the  sick 
to  their  best  efforts.  When  the  wind  changes  so  that  the  fog 
is  dispersed,  the  pilots  take  an  observation  and  find  themselves 
in  Lat.  42^,  opposite  a  cape  which  runs  eastwardly,  and 
unites  with  a  range  of  snowy  mountains.  This  they  call 
Cabo  Blanco  de  Sebastian.  The  lost  frigate  runs  verv  npar 
the  Capitana  during  the  storm  spoken  of,  but  not  being 
able  to  live  in  such  a  sea,  she  comes  to  anchor  under  a  huge 
rock  near  Cape  Mendocino.  The  pilot,  Florez,  when  the 
storm  abates,  finds  himself  in  Lat.  43°  north,  near  Cape 
Blanco,  and  the  mouth  of  a  large  river,  whose  banks  are 


■  CCNKfl      IN       THE       PACIFIC. 

coveml  with  ash,  willow,  and  other  trcps,  well  known  to  the 
Spaiiiaids.  Tliis  tiver  tiii-y  are  very  (icsiroiis  to  i-xplorc, 
Niil)|)0}iiiii;  it  will  ooiniuct  thi'in  to  the  great  city  reported  l)y 
Home  Dutch  mariners,  to  exist  in  this  rcpion ;  or  that  it  is  thu 
Strait  of  Anian,  connecting  the  Atlantic  with  the  Pacific  ' 
The  worthy  pilot,  however,  has  no  chance  of  immortalizing 
himself  l)y  running  through  Smith's  river  to  the  city  of  Man- 
hattan. The  current  is  against  his  course  and  his  fame  ;  and 
he  turns  back  with  the  determination  of  sailing  to  Acapulco 
without  uimecessary  delay. 

Meantime  the  Capitana  is  making  all  possible  speed  for 
La  Pax,  the  harbor  selected  for  her  winter  quarters.  Oc- 
casionally, in  her  progress,  she  is  visited  by  the  trading  canoes  of 
the  Indians.  But  nothing  of  moment  befals  her  save  that  her 
crew  grow  more  and  more  sickly,  till  she  reaches  a  large  island 
lying  east  of  Santa  Catarina,  when  only  three  persons  beside 
the  Captain-General  are  able  to  keep  the  deck.  There  is 
no  conversation,  no  mirth  on  board !  Orders  are  conveyed  in 
the  quiet  tone  of  conversation!  The  good  Padre  Andrez 
moves  quietly  about  among  the  sick,  the  sole  physician, 
nurse,  priest  and  confessor  of  that  gloomy  hospital !  Now  he 
bears  medicine  to  the  sick,  and  smoothes  their  pillow;  now  he 
administers  the  extreme  unction,  and  anoints  with  holy  oil 
the  dying ;  now  he  seals  the  lips  and  closes  the  eyes  of  the 
dead !  Prayers  and  groans  alone  are  heard ;  except  when 
the  burial  service  is  hurriedly  chanted,  and  the  sudden  plunge 
announces  that  some  one  is  gone  from  among  them  for  ever! 

These  terrible  afflictions  induce  the  General  to  abandon  his 
intention  of  wintering  at  La  Paz,  and  to  run  directly  for  the 
islands  of  Mazatlan,  where  he  can  procure  better  treatment 
for  his  dying  crew.  On  the  third  of  February  he  reaches  the 
island  of  San  Hilario  and  passes  on  to  Cerros.  Here  he  stops 
and  obtains  a  supply  of  wood  and  water.  On  his  departure, 
he  leaves  letters  and  signals  for  the  frigate,  in  case  she  should 
touch  there,  and  turns  his  prow  for  Cape  San  Lucas.  He 
-caches  it  on  the  fourteenth  of  February,  and  standing  directly 


T 


L  c  I  r  I  c  . 

PCS,  well  known  to  the 
f  desirous  to   t'Xj»lor«-, 

great  city  reported  by 
cgion  ;  or  that  it  is  the 
intic  with  the  Pacific' 
lance  of  immortalizing 
iver  to  the  city  of  Man- 
urse  and  his  fame  ;  and 

of  sailing  to  Acapulco 

all  possible  speed  for 
•  winter  quarters.  Oc- 
1  by  the  trading  canoes  of 
;  befals  her  save  that  her 
she  reaches  a  large  island 
nly  three  persons  beside 
•ep   the  deck.     Inhere  is 

Orders  are  conveyed  in 
'he  good  Padre  Andrez 
ick,  the  sole  physician, 
oomy  hospital !    Now  he 
:hes  their  pillow ;  now  he 
id  anoints  with  holy  oil 
rid  closes  the  eyes  of  the 
are  heard;  except  when 
;d,  and  the  sudden  plunge 
)m  among  them  for  ever ! 
le  General  to  abandon  his 
and  to  run  directly  for  the 
procure  better  treatment 
)f  February  he  reaches  the 
to  Cerros.     Here  he  stops 
water.     On  his  departure, 
frigate,  in  case  she  should 
>r  Cape  San  Lucas.    He 
•uary,  and  standing  directly 


TRAVKI.  •       IN        r  II  E       C  A  I.  I  roll  N  I  A  «. 


147 


.oross  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf,  enters  a  harlnir  near  the  island  of 
Rta/utiaii  oil  the  stveiiti-tiilh  of  the  same  month,  An  account 
of  his  condition  being  sent  to  tlie  Viceroy,  he  determines  to  go 
in  person  to  San  Sebastian,  a  village  about  eight  leagues  from 
the  harbor,  for  more  immediate  aid.  He  starts  on  the  nine- 
teenth with  five  of  his  soldiers.  Hut  being  utterly  ignorant  of 
the  country,  tliey  tulve  the  wrong  path,  aiiti  wander  two  days  in 
the  wooti  without  food  or  water.  At  length  they  fall  into  a 
broad  beaten  road,  ami  while  resting  themselves  by  the  way- 
side, a  drove  of  mules,  laih  n  with  provisions,  comes  along. 
These  are  going  from  Castile  to  Cu!iacan.  The  General 
learns  from  the  muleteers  that  an  old  friend  of  his  has  be(;ome 
the  Alcalde  of  the  latter  place,  and  immtdiately  accepts  their 
•iFer  to  convey  himself  and  soldiers  thither. 

At  this  town  they  are  furnished  with  every  comfort  for 
thimselves  and  those  on  board  the  ship.     The  poor  seamen 
and  Padres  !     They  are  now  reduced  to  the  most  lamentable 
condition !     Helpless,  covered  wilh  ulcers,  and  unable  to  speak 
or  eat !     Among  other  things  that  are  sent  them,  is  a  kind  of 
fruit  which  is  considered  a  specific  for  this  disease.     It  bears 
among  the  natives  the  cognomen,  Xocohuiltzes.     It  resembles 
an  apple.     The  leaves  of  the  plant  are  exactly  like  those  of 
the  pineapple.     The  fruit   grows  in  clusters.     The  rind  or 
shell  is  yellow,  and  contains  a  pulp  full  of  seeds.     Its  tlavor 
is  slightly  tart.     Its  medical   properties   are  such   that   it 
cleanses  the  mouth  reduces  the  gums,  fastens  the  teeth,  heals 
the  ulcers,  purifies  the  blood,   &c.     Its  virtues  were  acci- 
dentally discovered  by  an  officer  who  was  attending  the  burial 
of  a  victim  to  this  frightful  disease,  from  his  own  ship.     He 
was  himself  somewhat  infected,  and  passing  under  a  tree, 
plucked  and  ate  some  of  the  fruit.     In  a  few  minutes  he 
voided  from  the  mouth  a  large  quantity  of  purulent  matter, 
mingled  with  blood.     The  soreness  was  at  the  same  time  much 
relieved,  and  the  gums  contracted  upon  the  teeth  so  that  they  no 
longer  rattled  in  his  mouth.     The  poor  seamen  and  soldiers 
have  suiiered  most  deplorably  from  this  malady.     By  the  use 


«CENE8      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 

of  this  fruit  tL  cy  begin  to  recover.    Nor  have  the  Padres  been 
less  afflicted.     Such  is  the  condition  of  their  hands  and  mouths, 
that  the  crucifixes  which  they  have  held  and  often  caressed, 
while  the  disease  has  been  devouring  their  frames,  are  covered 
with  a  filthy  gore !     Their  couches,  as  well  as  those  of  the 
crew,  are  masses  of  putrid  matter  !     But  now  all  are  creep- 
bg  on  deck ;  the  ship  and  its  appurtenances  are  cleansed ; 
their  rotting  frames  begin  to  heal!     On  the  21st  of  March 
they  are  so  far  restored  that  the  Capitana  puts  to  sea,  and 
after  a  pleasant  sail  of  eight  days,  moors  in  the  bay  of  Aca- 
pulc).     When  her  anchor  runs,  and  the  pallid  forms  of  th« 
few  survivors  are  seen  at  the  bulwarks,  the  horrid  spectacle 
chills  every  tongue!     The  people  gather  on  the  shore  in 
silence.     But  soon  mothers  call  the  names  of  those  who,  many 
months  before,  have  been  buried  in  the  sea !     Fathers  seek 
their  sons  whose  graves  the  wolves  have  opened  in  the  forest 
of  San  Diego !     >*,  lothers,  in  the  excess  of  maternal  sorrow, 
demand  of  the  Captain-General  their  offspring,  who  have  fall- 
en, muscle  and  bone,  morsel  by  morsel,  before  the  terrific 
pestilence !     A  few  recognize  among  the  living,  the  disfigured 
countenances  of  their  friends,  and  rushing  on  board  embrace 
them  with  loud  lamentations  !    The  Aimiranta  rides  hard  by 
The  frigate  arrives  in  as  deplorable  a  state  as  the  Capitana. 
Her  crew  is  reduced  to  a  number  scarcely  sufficient  to  remem- 
ber the  sufferings  and  the  names  of  those  who  have  died. 
Thus  terminates  the  voyage  of  Viscayno.    He  has  explored 
tk«  whole  Pacific  coast  of  Upper  and  Lower  California. 


C  I  PI c . 


ir  have  the  Padres  been 
their  hands  and  mouths, 
!ld  and  often  caressed, 
heir  frames,  are  covered 
s  well  as  those  of  the 
But  now  all  are  creep- 
rtenances  are  cleansed ; 
On  the  21st  of  March 
ipitana  puts  to  sea,  and 
oors  in  the  bay  of  Aca- 
;he  pallid  forms  of  th« 
ks,  the  horrid  spectacle 
;ather  on  the  shore  in 
iraes  of  those  who,  many 
the  sea !     Fathers  seek 
ave  opened  in  the  forest 
ess  of  maternal  sorrow, 
offspring,  who  have  fall- 
orsel,  before  the  terrific 
the  living,  the  disfigured 
shing  on  board  embrace 
Aimiranta  rides  hard  by 
I  state  as  the  Capitana. 
cely  suflScient  to  remem- 
)f  those  who  have  died, 
lyno.    He  has  explored 
Lower  California. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

A.D.  1615— A.D.  1C33-4— Don  Pedro  Portel  de  Cassanate— A.D.  1G47— 
AD.  lGGG-7— A.D.  1G83— Indians— A  Baitle— All  busy— Orders 
from  Mexico — Ships  (ii-:]in(c)ied — A  Garrison  and  Church — An  Elx- 
pedition  into  the  Interior— Despatches  arrive— A  Determination- 
Padre  Kino— Padre  Juan  Maeua  Salva  Tiehra— The  Jesuits— Powers 
granted— Sai.va  Tiehka  goes  to  Calil'ornia— The  Ilesurrcciion— Inso- 
lence—An  Attack— A  Repulse— A  General  Onset— A  Route— Peace- 
Arrival  of  Padre  Piccolo— An  Exploration— Condition  of  the  Conquest 
Salva  Tiehra  goes  to  Senora  for  Food— An  Expedition  to  the  Gila  and 
Colorado  of  the  West  by  Padres  Kino  and  Salva  Tiebra— Return  to 
Senora — Padre  Salva  Tierra  leaves  for  California— Another  Expedi- 
tion to  the  Gila  and  Colorado  by  Padres  Kino  and  Gonzales— Indians 
and  Rivers— Death— Last  Days  of  Padre  Kino— A  lost  Grave. 

No  other  expedition  of  any  moment  is  undertaken  to  Cali- 
fornia until  1615,  when  Captain  Juan  Iturbi  obtains  a  license 
for  making  a  voyage  at  his  own  expense.  One  of  his  two 
ships  is  captured  by  a  Dutch  pirate.  With  the  other  he 
reaches  the  coast  of  Cinaloa,  and  procures  supplies  from  a  Je- 
suit Missionary,  Padre  Ribas,  preparatory  to  crossing  the 
Gulf.  But  before  leaving  port  he  is  ordered  out  to  convoy 
the  Philippine  ship  to  Acapulco.  This  done,  he  returns  to 
Mexico,  and  by  exhibiting  the  pearls  he  has  taken  fires  anew 
the  wonder  and  cupidity  of  the  whole  country.  The  Califor- 
nian  pearl  fisheries  are  soon  thronged.  A  few  find  what  they 
desire,  but  an  infinitely  greater  number  are  disappointed. 
The  results,  however,  lead  to  the  granting  of  a  license  to 
Francisco  de  Ortega  to  make  a  voyage  up  the  Gulf.  He  sails 
in  March,  1632.  Accompanying  him  is  Padre  Diego  de  la 
Nava,  the  newly  appointed  Vicar-general  of  California. 

On  the  second  of  May  they  land  at  San  Barnabe  bay ;  and 
having  made  a  special  survey  of  the  coast  from  this  point  to 


SCENES      IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


La  Paz  and  purchased  some  pearls  of  the  Indians,  they  touch 
at  Cinaioa,  and  in  June  go  thence  to  report  their  proceedings 
to  the  Viceroy.  In  1633  end  '34,  Capt.  Ortega  makes  two 
other  voyages  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  settlement  in  Cali- 
fornia ;  but  finds  the  country  so  barren  that  he  is  obliged  to 
abandon  his  design.  He  now  proposes  to  have  a  garrison  es- 
tablished at  some  proper  point  for  colonization,  and  a  sum  of 
money  granted  from  the  royal  treasury  to  maintain  settlers  for 
a  definite  period.  But  while  he  is  agitating  these  measures, 
he  has  the  mortification  to  learn  that  his  pilot,  Carboneli,  has 
not  only  obtained  a  license  for  making  a  voyage,  but  asserts 
the  practicability  of  settling  the  country  farther  north,  with- 
out depending  on  the  government  for  supplies.  This  pilot 
sails  in  1636 ;  but  to  his  chagrin  nowhere  finds  such  a  coun- 
try as  he  has  promised  ;  and,  after  obtaining  a  few  pearls,  re- 
turns to  confess  his  failure. 

After  this,  an  expedition  is  undertaken  at  His  Majesty's  ex- 
pense. The  governor  of  Cinaioa  receives  orders  to  pass  over 
to  California  and  survey  the  islands,  bays,  coast  and  face  of 
the  country,  preparatory  to  making  a  chart  for  the  use  of  na- 
vigators. He  does  so.  Padre  Jacinto  Cortez,  a  missionary 
of  Cinaioa,  accompanies  him  in  order  to  ascertain  if  it  be 
practicable  to  Christianize  the  Indians.  They  complete  the 
8i"rv»iy  in  July,  1642,  and  soon  after  send  their  charts,  pearls, 
and  other  things  procured,  to  the  Viceroy. 

A  change  is  now  taking  place  at  Mexico.  The  Viceroy, 
Don  Diego  Lopez  Pacheco,  Marquis  de  Villena  and  Duke  of 
Esclona,  returns  to  Spain  under  suspicion,  and  is  succeeded 
by  Don  Juan  de  Palafox.  The  Marquis  successfully  vindi- 
cates himself  against  the  malicious  charges  of  his  enemies, 
and  procures  an  expedition  to  California  to  be  ordered  under 
Admiral  Don  Pedro  Portel  de  Cassanate.  This  man  is  em- 
powered to  build  and  equip  fleets,  and  make  settlements  in 
California,  and  do  such  other  acts  as  he  may  deem  best  calcu- 
lated to  bring  the  natives  of  that  country  into  the  church.  The 


M 


CI  FIC  . 

e  Indians,  they  touch 
art  their  proceedings 
;.  Ortega  makes  two 

a  settlement  in  Cali- 
that  he  is  obliged  to 
to  have  a  garrison  es- 
ization,  and  a  sum  of 
.0  maintain  settlers  lor 
iting  these  measures, 
s  pilot,  Carboneli,  has 
■  a  voyage,  but  asserts 
ry  farther  north,  with- 

supplies.     This  pilot 
ere  finds  such  a  coun- 
ining  a  few  pearls,  re- 
en  at  His  Majesty's  ex- 
,ves  orders  to  pass  over 
)ays,  coast  and  face  of 
chart  for  the  use  of  na- 
;o  Cortez,  a  missionary 
>r  to  ascertain  if  it  be 
s.     They  complete  the 
end  their  charts,  pearls, 

;roy. 

Mexico.    The  Viceroy, 
le  Villena  and  Duke  of 
icion,  and  is  succeeded 
rquis  successfully  vindi- 
charges  of  his  enemies, 
rnia  to  be  ordered  under 
sanate.  This  man  is  em- 
and  make  settlements  in 
he  may  deem  best  calcu- 
itry  into  the  church.  The 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFORNIAS, 


151 


spiritual  welfare  of  this  expedition  is  committed  to  Padres 
Jacinto  Cortez  and  Aiidrez  Baes,  Mi.ssionaiios  of  Ciualoa. 

Having  arrived  at  Ciiialoa,Cas>sanate receives  instructions 
to  go  out  and  meet  the  Pliilippine  ship  which  it  is  feared  will 
fall  into  the  hands  of  English  or  Dutch  jiirates.  He  brings 
her  safely  in  ;  and  while  he  is  making  preparations  to  sail 
again  to  California,  two  ol'  his  ships  are  burned.  Discourag- 
ing as  this  circumstance  is,  he  resolves  not  to  be  defeated  by 
it.  Two  others  are  built  at  Ciaaloa  in  1647-8,  in  which  he 
sails  to  the  place  of  destination.  But  he  finds  the  country,  as 
far  as  he  explores  it,  barren  and  dry.  Before  he  completes 
his  survey,  however,  he  receives  orders  /.o  go  a  second  time 
and  conduct  a  Philippine  ship  into  Acapulco.  This  done,  he 
proceeds  to  lay  the  resultii  of  his  expedition  before  the  Viceroy. 

This  excellent  man  is  soon  after  promoted  to  the  Govern- 
ment of  Chili ;  and  California  is  neglected  till  lb65,  when 
Philip  IV.  again  orders  its  reduction.  The  execution  of  this 
eflibrt  is  entrusted  to  Don  Bernado  Bernal  de  Pinadero.  But 
the  Spanish  treasury  is  now  exhausted  ;  the  nation  and  its 
colonies  are  impoverished.  Two  small  vessels  only,  therefore, 
are  built  in  the  Valle  de  Venderas.  In  1666  they  sail  to  the 
coast,  rob  the  poor  natives  of  some  pearls,  and  make  their 
way  back  to  report  that  expedition  also,  a  failure.  The  Queen 
mother,  acting  as  Regent,  orders  Pinadero  to  make  another 
attempt.  In  this  he  is  accompanied  by  the  eel'  brated  Padke 
Kino.  This  likewis.  results  in  nothing  valuable.  L»  the  fol- 
lowing year  Francisco  Luzenilla  obtains  a  license  for  a  voy- 
age at  his  own  expense.  This  proves,  like  all  others,  fruit- 
less of  results  worthy  of  note.  In  1667,  the  importance  of 
making  a  settlement  in  California  for  a  rendezvous  of  ships 
trading  to  the  Philippine  Islands,  is  again  brought  before  the 
Council  of  the  Indies ;  and  it  is  finally  determined  to  instmct 
the  Viceroy  and  the  Archbishop  of  Mexico  to  send  out  Admi 
ral  Pinadero  again,  if  he  will  give  security  for  the  perform- 
ance of  that  duty  according  to  the  decrees  of  Council;  and  if 
he  decline,  to  make  the  offer  to  any  person  who  will  undex- 


153 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


take  it,  at  his  own  expense  ;  and  if  none  so  offer,  it  ir  ordered 
to  be  accomplished  at  the  expense  of  the  crown.  Admiral 
Pinadero  having  refused,  Admiral  Otondo  accepts  the  proposi- 
tion. The  spiritual  Government  is  conferred  on  the  Jesuits. 
Padre  Kino  as  superior,  and  Padres  Copart  and  Goni  accom- 
pany the  expedition. 

They  put  to  sea  from  Chacala  on  the  eighteenth  of  May 
1683,  and  in  fourteen  days  reach  La  Paz.  They  think  it 
singular,  on  landing,  not  to  see  any  Indians;  but  as  soon  as 
they  begin  to  erect  a  garrison,  considerable  numbers  appear, 
armed  and  hideously  painted,  who  intimate  by  signs  that  the 
Spaniards  must  leave  their  country.  After  some  effort,  how- 
ever, on  the  part  of  the  Padres,  and  uniform  kindness  from  the 
officers,  soldiers  and  seamen,  their  intercourse  becomes 
apparently  unconstrained  and  friendly.  Soon,  however,  cir- 
cumstances occur  which  arouse  suspicion.  The  reported 
murder  of  a  mulatto  boy,  added  to  some  indignities  towards 
the  garrison,  indicate  the  need  of  great  watchfulness  on  the 
part  of  the  voyagers.  Danger  lurks  near  them.  The  Guaya- 
curos  among  whom  they  sojourn,  offer  to  unite  with  their 
enemies,  the  Coras,  for  the  extirpation  of  the  Spaniards.  The 
Coras  appear  to  entertain  the  proposition,  but  report  it  to  the 
Admiral  on  their  earliest  opportunity.  The  soldiers  are  thrown 
into  such  a  panic  by  the  discovery  of  this  plot,  that  the  Admi- 
ral and  Padres  are  obliged  to  exert  all  fheir  authority  and 
persuasion  to  induce  them  to 'meet  the  event  with  fortitude. 
The  day  of  the  intended  massacre  arrives.  The  Indians  ap- 
pear, to  the  number  of  thirteen  or  fourteen  hundred.  A  pa- 
derero,  or  cannon,  is  fired  among  them,  by  which  ten  or 
twelve  are  killed  and  several  wounded.  The  remainder 
retire  in  confusion  to  their  rancherias.  The  garrison 
is  safe;  no  one  even  wounded.  But  this  victory  does 
not  discourage  their  fear  of  the  Indians.  The  dry  crags, 
the  treeless  sands  and  thirsty  torrent-chasms  are,  to  the 
anxious  minds  of  the  timid  men,  peopled  with  forms  of  death ; 
and  every  howl  of  the  lean  wolf  upon  the  heights,  grates  like 


ACIFIC. 

le  SO  offer,  it  if  ordered 
the  crown.  Admiral 
do  accepts  the  proposi- 
inferred  on  the  Jesuits. 
)part  and  Goni  accom- 

le  eighteenth  of  May 
1  Paz.    They  thinlc  it 
idians ;  but  as  soon  a* 
rable  numbers  appear, 
imate  by  signs  that  the 
After  some  effort,  how- 
liform  kindness  from  the 
r    intercourse    becomes 
f.     Soon,  however,  cir- 
spicion.     The   reported 
)me  indignities  towards 
eat  watchfulness  on  the 
lear  them.     The  Guaya- 
fferto  unite  with  their 
n  of  the  Spaniards.  The 
lion,  but  report  it  to  the 

The  soldiers  are  thrown 
■  this  plot,  that  the  Admi- 
;  all  their  authority  and 
the  event  with  fortitude, 
rrives.  The  Indians  ap- 
ourteen  hundred.     A  fa- 

thera,  by  which  ten  or 
junded.  The  remainder 
icherias.  The  garrison 
But  this  victory  does 
Indians.  The  dry  crags, 
rrent-chasms  are,  to  the 
opled  with  forms  of  death ; 
)on  the  heights,  grates  like 


TRAVELS       IN       T  il  K       C  A  I.  I  F  O  U  N  I  A  S 


153 


a  coffin  screw  on  their  ears.  Otondo  is,  therefore,  obliged  to 
Weigh  anchor  lor  ili.i.|m  on  thu  SiMima  slioic.  Here  he  sells 
all  his  pearls,  aiui  pledges  his  plate  tor  stores.  Like  a  brave 
man  bent  on  his  end,  he  seeks  again  the  Californian  shore, 
and  on  the  sixth  of  October  anchors  at  San  Bruno  Bay,  in 
Lat.  1Q°  30'. 

On  the  same  day,  Otondo,  the  three  Padres,  and  some  sol- 
diers, explore  for  fresh  water,  and  find  it  in  a  narrow  vale  one 
mile  and  a  half  from  shore.  Near  this  tliej  establish  a  gar- 
rison, build  a  rude  church,  and  some  huts.  And  now  Otondo 
sends  two  ships  to  Mexico  with  an  account  of  his  proceed- 
ings, and  a  re<[iiest  for  more  money  ;  takes  possession  of  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  king  ;  goes  fifty  leagues  westward 
in  the  month  of  December  among  mountains  and  desert  vales; 
ascends  an  elevation,  where  he  finds  several  leasjues  of  table 
land,  with  a  temperate  climate  and  a  fresh-water  lake  of 
small  size  ;  advances  Ix'yoiid,  on  a  toilsome  journey  over  steeps 
and  depths,  in  seaich  of  a  peak  from  which  to  see  the  Pacific 
Ocean  ;  fails  to  do  so,  and  returns  to  San  Bruno.  The  Indians 
whom  they  meet  are  much  deliirhted  with  the  paternal  kindness 
of  the  Padres.  Otondo  enijiloys  himself  a  year  in  like  ex- 
plorations at  different  points  along  the  coast.  The  Padres 
are  busy  meantime  in  learning  the  language  of  the  Indians 
and  instructing  them  in  the  Catholic  religion.  They  trans- 
late the  Catechism,  teach  it  to  the  children,  and  these  in  turn 
teach  it  to  their  parents.  The  voice  of  heathenism  utters 
prayers  to  Jehovah  on  the  Californian  mountains ! 

The  Padres  find  no  word  in  their  language  to  represent  the 
resurrection  of  the  dead.  That  idea  has  not  existed  in  their 
minds,  and  consequently  has  no  expression  in  their  language. 
Resort  is  had  to  a  very  ingenious  method  of  finding  one 
which  will  present  it.  Some  flies  are  immersed  in  water  un- 
til animation  seems  extinct.  They  are  then  placed  among 
ashes  in  the  heat  of  the  sun  till  restored  to  life.  The  In- 
dians who  witness  the  operation  cry  out,  Ibirnuhueite  !  Ibi- 
muhueite !     This  word  or  expression  is  afterward  used  to 


154 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC, 


represent  the  resurrection  of  the  Saviour,  and  conveys  to  the 
Indian  a  clear  conception  of  that  holy  event.  The  Padres 
instruct  during  the  year  iour  hundred  adults  and  many  child- 
ren, but  baptize  none  except  those  who  are  at  the  door  of 
death.  Some  of  these  sick  indeed,  reco\  er,  and  prove  useful 
teachers.  Most  of  them,  however,  die,  holding  fast  their 
new  faith.  In  these  several  ways  do  the  priests  and  Otondo 
consume  the  year.  At  its  close,  dispatches  arrive  from  the 
Viceroy  requiring  an  account  of  proceedings,  and  forbidding 
any  farther  attempts  to  be  made  for  the  conquest  and  settle- 
ment of  California  which  should  involve  the  Government  in 
expense. 

On  the  reception  of  these  dispatches  a  council  of  the  Pa- 
dres and  military  officers  is  held,  the  determination  of  which 
is,  that  a  small  ship  shall  be  sent  with  dispatches  to  Mexico, 
that  the  Padres  shall  continue  to  teach  the  Indians,  and  Oton- 
do to  explore  the  country  and  pearl  beds.  In  September, 
1685,  however,  a  peremptory  order  comes  prohibiting  farther 
elforts  at  settling  the  country,  and  ordering,  if  possible,  to 
keep  possession  of  what  is  already  conquered.  But  it  has 
now  become  apparent  that  San  Bruno  must  be  abandoned. 
No  rain  has  fallen  for  nearly  two  years ;  dearth,  thirst,  and 
hunger,  stand  near  them ;  and  to  escape  is  the  settled  desire 
of  all,  except  the  priests.  These  men  of  iron  souls  would 
stay  to  teach  the  savage.  But  Otondo  weighs  anchor,  and 
with  priests,  soldiers,  seamen,  and  three  native  converts, 
squares  his  yards  for  the  harbor  of  Matanchel,  on  the  Mexi- 
can shore. 

This  is  the  last  expedition  of  the  civil  power  of  Spain  to 
conquer  and  settle  California.  Padre  Kino  has  begun  to 
conquer  it  with  the  Cross ;  and  we  shall  follow  him  in  his 
triumphs  and  trials  while  he  achiev(>.«  it.  The  professor  of 
Ingoldstadt,  Padrk  Kino,  the  devotee  of  San  Xavior,  traverses 
Mexico  preaching  to  his  brother  Jesuits  the  glories  of  mar- 
tyrdom, and  the  rich  reward  of  those  who  save  from  wo  the 
doomed  and  lost      In  order  to  forward  his  zeal,  he  is  ap* 


— ^Jl^iL_«L_ 


I  F  I  C  . 

and  conveys  to  the 
event.     The  Padres 
ilts  and  many  child- 
)  are  at  the  door  of 
*  cr,  and  prove  useful 
.,  holding  fast  their 
;e  priests  and  Otondo 
ches  arrive  from  the 
dings,  and  forbidding 
e  conquest  and  settle- 
^e  the  Government  ia 

a  council  of  the  Pa- 
itermination  of  which 
dispatches  to  Mexico, 
the  Indians,  and  Oton- 

beds.     In  September, 
mes  prohibiting  farther 
irdering,  if  possible,  to 
onquered.     But  it  has 
0  must  be  abandoned, 
ars ;  dearth,  thirst,  and 
ipe  is  the  settled  desire 
en  of  iron  souls  would 
ido  weighs  anchor,  and 

three   native  converts, 
latanchel,  on  the  Mexi- 

civil  power  of  Spain  to 
DRE  KiNO  has  begun  to 
shall  follow  him  in  his 
rpf!  it.  The  professor  of 
;  of  San  Xavinr,  traverses 
?suits  the  glories  of  mar- 
)se  who  save  from  wo  the 
ward  his  zeal,  he  is  ap- 


r 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       C  A  I,  I  F  O  K  N  I  A  8 


lf)5 


pointed  to  the  charge  of  the  Missions  on  the  Senora  coast, 
whence  it  will  be  easy  to  send  supplies  across  the  Gulf  to  the 
more  barren  regions  of  the  peninsula.  Padre  Juan  Maria 
Salva  Tierra  is  designated  to  lead  the  way  on  the  California 
side.  He  solicits  contributions ;  obtains  Padre  Juan  Ugarte,  a 
professor  in  the  college  at  Mexico,  as  a  fellow-laborer ;  fif- 
teen thousand  dollars  to  be  pledged  the  Society  of  Jesuits  for 
the  enterprise ;  ten  thousand  more  to  be  given  it  as  a  fund 
for  one  mission ;  prevails  upon  the  Commissary  of  the  Inqui- 
sition at  (iueretaro,  Don  Juan  Cavalero  Y.  Ozio,  to  subscribe 
funds  for  two  other  missions,  and  obligate  himself  to  pay  what- 
ever bills  shall  be  drawn  on  him  by  Padre  Salva  Tierra. 

The  license  for  the  Jesuits  to  enter  California  is  granted  on 
the  fifth  of  February,  1627.  The  special  warrants  empower- 
ino  Padres  Kino  and  Salva  Tierra  to  enter  California  are 
subject  to  these  conditions  :  that  they  waste  nothing  belong- 
ing to  the  king,  nor  draw  upon  the  government  treasury  with- 
out express  orders  from  his  majesty ;  that  they  take  posses- 
sion of  the  country,  and  hold  it  in  the  name  of  the  King  of 
Spain. 

The  powers  granted  them  in  these  warrants  are,  to  enlist 
soldiers  at  their  own  expense  ;  appoint  a  commander,  whose 
immunities  shall  be  accounted  the  same  as  in  time  of  war ;  to 
commission  magistrates  for  the  administration  of  justice  in 
California ;  aad  discharge  all  these  from  their  service  at  will. 
With  full  powers  both  civil  and  ecclesiastical,  therefore,  and 
the  treasury  both  of  the  Inquisition  and  of  many  private  indivi- 
duals to  draw  upon.  Padre  Salva  Tierra  goes  from  Mexico  to 
Guadalaxara ;  thence  to  Hiaqui,  in  Senora ;  and  thence  on  the 
tenth  of  October,  1697,  with  five  soldiers,  Estevan  Rodriguez 
Lorenzo,  Bartoleme  de  Robles  Figueroa,  Juan  Caravana, 
Nicolas  Marques,  and  Juan,  with  their  commander,  D6n  Luis 
de  Torres  Tortolero,  embarks  for  the  scene  of  his  future  trials. 
A  great  moral  hero,  with  his  little  band,  kneeling  in  prayer 
on  fne  deck  of  a  galliot,  bound  for  the  conquest  of  California ! 
The  sails  are  loosened  to  the  winds  j  they  leave  the  harbor ; 


1 


!56 


BCENF.  8      IN      THE      PACIFIC 


but  they  have  proceeded  haidly  a  league,  when  a  squall  uoinci 
on,  which  strands  them  on  the  beach.  All  now  appear  to  be 
lost.  But  they  save  themselves  in  the  long-boat ;  and  when 
the  tide  rises,  the  galliot  floats  again,  and  proceeds  on  her 
voyage.  A  holy  voyage  is  begun ;  its  consequences  are  full 
of  hope  to  man ! 

On  the  thirteenth  they  touch  at  San  Bruno,  in  California, 
and  at  San  Dionysio,  ten  leagues  south  of  San  Bruno.  Al 
the  latter  place,  fifty  Indians  receive  them  with  joy.  A  fine 
watering-place,  discovered  in  a  deep  and  fruitful  glen,  indi- 
cates the  place  for  an  encampment.  The  provisions,  bag- 
gage, and  animals,  therefore,  are  landed,  and  the  barracks  of 
the  little  garrison  built;  a  line  of  circumvallation  is  thrown 
up,  in  the  centre  of  which  a  temporary  chapel  is  raised  ;  be- 
fore it  a  crucifix,  adorned  with  a  garland  of  flowers,  is  erect- 
ed ;  and  "  the  image  of  our  Lady  of  Loretto,  as  patroness  of 
the  conquest,  is  brought  in  procession  from  the  galliot,  and 
placed  with  proper  solemnity."  On  the  twenty-fifth  of  Oc- 
tober, formal  possession  is  taken  of  the  country  in  the  name 
of  the  King  of  Spain. 

Thus  commences  the  religious  conquest  of  California  by 
Padre  Salva  Tieuua  ;  a  voluntary  exile  from  the  highest  cir- 
cles of  European  life ;  a  great  man,  with  a  strong  and  kind 
heart;  abandoning  kindred,  ease,  and  intellectual  society,  for 
the  well-being  of  the  stupid  and  filthy  natives  of  the  Cali- 
fornian  deserts. 

The  Padre  now  sends  the  galliot  to  Hiaqui  for  Padre 
Piccolo,  some  soldiers  and  provisions.  Meantime  he  applies 
himself  with  unceasing  assiduity  to  learning  the  Indian  lan- 
guage and  teaching  religion.  He  pursues  the  same  course  as 
he  would  with  stupid  children ;  induces  them  to  learn  the 
prayers  and  catechisms,  by  rewarding  attention  and  industry 
with  something  to  eat.  By  thus  addressing  their  strongest 
propensity  as  a  stimulant  for  the  acquisition  of  knowledge, 
he  hopes  to  awaken  and  instruct  their  higher  faculties  of 
thought  and  sense  of  right.    In  the  latter  he,  for  a  time,  failii 


FI  C  . 

hen  a  squall  jomci 
now  appear  to  be 

ig-boat ;  and  when 
1(1  proceeds  on  her 
jiisequences  are  full 

Bruno,  in  California, 
of  San  Bruno.     Al 
'HI  with  joy.     A  fine 
d  fruitful  glen,  indi- 
The  provisions,  bag- 
,  and  the  barracks  of 
imvallation  is  thrown 
chapel  is  raised  ;  he- 
ld of  flowers,  is  erect- 
sretto,  as  patroness  of 
from  the  galliot,  and 
lie  twenty-filth  of  Oc- 
je  country  in  the  name 

[juest  of  California  by 
le  from  the  highest  cir- 
vith  a  strong  and  kind 
intellectual  society,  for 
by  natives  of  the  Cali- 

t  to  Hiaqui  for  Padre 
.     Meantime  he  applies 
arning  the  Indian  lan- 
rsuos  the  same  course  aa 
ices  them  to  learn  the 
;  attention  and  industry 
dressing  their  strongest 
quisition  of  knowledge, 
hnir  higher  faculties  of 
itter  he,  for  a  time,  fail* 


TRAVELS 


r  II  1::       C  A  1,  I  K  O  R  N  1  A  S 


157 


For  the  savages,  dissatisfied  with  the  amount  of  food  which 
the  Padre  gives  them,  fall  upon  the  animals  of  the  posi, 
destroy  them,  and  steal  corn  from  the  sacks.  Nor  are  tiiey 
satisfied  with  this.  They  meditate  a  general  attack  on  the 
garrison,  in  order  to  destroy  or  drive  the  people  from  the 
country.  The  good  Padre  knows  their  designs,  but  continues 
I  his  kindness.     Their  insolence  increases.     On  the  thirteenth 

of  November,  the  tribes  meet  to  strike  a  decisive  blow. 
Four  savages  come  to  the  camp  about  noon,  while  the  garri- 
son are  eating.  The  sentinel  tries  to  prevent  their  entering 
the  trenches,  and  one  of  the  boldest  of  them  deprives  him  of 
the  staff  used  as  a  halberd.  The  soldier  cries  out,  and  Tor- 
tolero  running  up,  wrests  it  from  the  Indian  with  such  force 
and  boldness,  that  the  invaders  are  frightened  and  retire.  At 
this  moment  the  Indian  Alonzo  cle  Tepahui,  who  keeps  the 
swine  and  sheep  in  a  valley  overgrown  with  rushes  and  flags, 
is  assaulted  by  another  party.  But  aid  being  immediately 
rendered,  himself  and  animals  are  saved.  And  now  falls  a 
shower  of  arrows  and  stones  from  five  hundred  Indians,  ad- 
vancing to  attack  the  camp. 

Ten  men  and  one  Californian  Indian  compose  the  garrison. 
And  how  shall  they  be  so  detailed  as  to  meet  this  numerous 
force  ?  Tortolero,  the  acting  commander,  stations  himself  and 
Bartolerae  de  Robles  on  the  entrenchment  facing  the  lower 
part  of  the  valley,  the  post  of  greatest  danger ;  on  the  oppo- 
site side  are  Juan  de  Peru  and  the  Indian  Alonzo  de  Tepahui ; 
on  the  ^-ide  looking  towards  the  river,  stands  the  bold  and 
active  Indian  Marcos  Guazavas ;  on  the  remaining  side  is 
Estevan  Rodrigues ;  the  Maltese  Juan  Caravana  has  the  care 
of  the  padcrero,  or  cannon,  placed  at  the  gate  of  the  camp ; 
and  near  to  him  is  Nicolas  Marques,  the  Sicilian,  as  assistant 
gunner;  Salva  Tierra  and  Sebastien,  his  Indian,  occupy  the 
centre,  in  order  to  give  aid  where  there  should  be  the  most 
need.  The  forces  have  barely  time  to  make  this  disposition  of 
themselves,  when  the  savages  begin  to  advance  on  all  sides, 
with  dreadful  shouting  and  outcries.  They  are  repulsed  with  as 


168 


SCENES      IN       THE       PACIFIC, 


little  destruction  of  life  as  possible.  Padre  Salva  Tiehra  de- 
sires that  course  to  be  pursued.  The  Indians  return  to  the  at- 
tack repeatedly  for  two  hours,  throwing  stones,  arrows,  and 
wooden  javelins  into  the  trenches,  when  suddenly  the  whole 
body  retreats  and  the  action  ceases.  Half  an  hour  elapses,  and 
they  return  reinforced,  and  press  upon  the  trenches  with  rage  so 
fierce  and  deadly,  that  the  hope  of  successful  resistance  with- 
out the  paderero  grows  faint.  The  Padre,  therefore,  consents 
to  have  it  fired.  The  match  is  applied.  But  instead  of  de- 
stroying the  Indians,  it  bursts  in  pieces  and  flies  about  the 
camp,  knocking  Juan  Caravana  senseless  to  the  ground. 
The  Indians  against  whom  it  has  been  levelled,  perceive  this 
misfortune,  and  send  notice  of  it  to  others  with  the  remark, 
that  since  the  paderero  does  not  kill,  they  need  not  fear  the 
smaller  pieces.  Of  this  they,  are  the  more  persuaded,  because 
the  Padre  has  ordered  the  soldiers  to  shoot  over  them.  And 
the  kind  old  priest,  now  that  the  Captain  thinks  it  necessary  to 
fire  into  the  Indian  ranks,  rushes  between  the  guns  and  the 
savages,  beseeching  them  not  to  press  on  sure  destruction ! 
Three  arrows  shot  at  him  are  the  reward  of  his  kindness. 
Happily,  the  Padre  is  not  injured.  But  he  withdraws  and 
leaves  them  to  their  fate.  And  now  they  fall  before  the 
muskets  of  the  soldiers !  The  wounded  and  dying  groan  on 
every  side !  A  route  succeeds !  They  fly  in  confusion  to  their 
villages ! 

Soon  after,  messengers  of  peace  arrive.  The  first  is  a 
Chief.  He  weeps ;  he  talks  in  broken  grief;  he  acknow- 
ledges himself  the  cause  of  these  disturbances ;  he  first  formed 
the  plot,  inspirited  and  drew  in  the  other  tribes  ;  he  and  they 
have  sought  vengeance ;  but  are  now  sincerely  repentant. 
Next  comes  a  band  of  women  leading  children.  They  seat 
themselves  at  the  gate  of  the  camp,  and  weeping  bitterly,  and 
promising  good  conduct  for  themselves  and  their  husbands, 
ofTer  the  children  as  hostages.  The  good  Padre  is  greatly 
rejoiced  to  see  these  signs  of  sorrow  j   explains   to  them 


inc. 

RE  Salva  TiF.^iRA  de- 

ians  return  to  the  at- 
T  stones,  arrows,  and 
I  svuldeniy  the  whole 
f  an  hour  elapses,  and 
trenches  with  rage  so 
essful  resistance  with- 
re,  therefore,  consents 
But  instead  of  de- 
:s  and  flies  about  the 
seless  to  the  ground, 
levelled,  perceive  this 
lers  with  the  remark, 
ley  need  not  fear  the 
ore  persuaded,  because 
hoot  over  them.     And 
n  thinks  it  necessary  to 
een  the  guns  and  the 
i  on  sure  destruction! 
sward  of  his  kindness. 
Jut  he  withdraws  and 
V  they  fall  before  the 
;d  and  dying  groan  on 
fly  in  confusion  to  their 

arrive.    The  first  is  a 
ken  grief;  he  acknow- 
irbances ;  he  first  formed 
ther  tribes  ;  he  and  they 
3W  sincerely  repentant. 
ig  children.     They  seat 
md  weeping  bitterly,  and 
/es  and  their  husbands, 
!  good  Padre  is  greatly 
:ow;   explains   to  them 


r 


TRAVELS      IN       TIIK      CALIF0KNIA8. 


lf>9 


i 


the  wickedness  of  their  acts;  and  promises  them  peace, 
friendship,  and  other  good  tilings,  if  their  husbands  prove 
true  to  their  league.  And  receiving  one  of  the  children  in 
order  to  remove  all  suspicion  from  their  minds,  sends  them  to 
their  friends  and  homes  with  shouts  and  other  demonstrations 
of  great  joy.  And  now  night  comes  on  in  this  vast  waste  of 
burned  mountains  !  The  little  chapel  is  opened  for  worship. 
Special  "  thanks  are  returned  to  God,  His  most  holy  mother, 
and  Saint  Stanislaus  for  his  manifold  favors." 

On  examining  the  camp  nixt  morning,  it  is  found  "  that 
most  of  the  arrows  stick  in  the  pedestal  of  the  cross;  whilst 
the  cross  itself,  and  tent  which  serves  for  a  chapel  to  '  our 
lady  of  Loretto,'  are  untouched."  None  of  the  garrison  are 
kille<l ;  two  only  are  wounded.  These  are  the  brave  Tortolero 
and  Figueroa  ;  and  they  adore  the  holy  cross  as  the  standard 
of  their  faith ;  "  they  sing  .Ive  Maria  to  our  lady  as  their 
Captain,  and  unanimously  determine  to  remain  in  the  country." 
This  garrison  is  called  Loretto.  To  it,  lor  many  years  to 
come,  will  centre  the  events  of  the  country.  Even  now  it  is 
a  bright  and  lone  starry  point :  the  only  lamp  of  truth  that 
burns,  from  Cape  San  Lucas  to  the  north  pole,  is  at  Loretto. 
The  only  civilized  men  that  live  on  all  that  extent  of  coast, 
breathe  thip  first  night  after  the  battle,  with  their  hands 
clenched  on  their  guns,  in  the  tents  of  the  garrison  at  Loretto 
in  Lower  California ! 

On  the  twenty-third  of  November  a  long-boat  arrives  from 
Senora  with  Padre  Francisco  Maria  Piccolo— a  missionary 
among  the  Tarahumares,  who  has  left  his  former  field  of  toil, 
for  this  new  one  in  California.  Padre  Salva  Tierra  has,  by 
his  arrival,  a  companion  at  his  prayers,  and  in  his  labor  among 
these  savages.  The  soldiers  now  erect  some  works  of  defence 
within  the  camp ;  the  trench  is  enlarged  and  fortified  with  a 
palisade  and  thorny  branches  of  trees ;  a  chapel  is  built  of 
mortar  and  stone,  with  thatched  roof,  for  the  image  of  "  our 
Lady  of  Loretto ;"  three  other  structures  are  raised,  one  for 
the  Padres,  one  for  the  Captain,  and  one  for  a  magazine ;  and 


H. 
ft: 


lf.0 


*  r  K  N  K  «    IN     Tier:     r  A  (•  I  F  f  r  , 


near  to  tht'sc  art*  raised  the  barracks.  The  Pathos  emphiy 
tliernselves  with  the  Itiiiiaiis.  A  small  tribe  is  allowed  to  take 
up  cjuarters  near  the  camp. 

The  native  priests,  perceiving  by  this  movement  of  their 
people,  that  their  authority  is  diminithing,  raise  a  party  to  op- 
pose the  Padres.  They  steal  a  long-boat  and  l)reak  it  in  pieces ; 
attack  a  party  in  pursuit  of  them,  ami  are  driven  from  the  ground; 
repent,  and  are  again  received  into  favor  by  the  forgiving 
Padres.  Don  Pedro  Gil  de  la  Sierpe  sends  Paprk  Salva  Tiek- 
RA  a  bark  called  San  Firmin,  and  a  long-boat  called  San 
Xavier.  With  these  they  bring  wood,  fruits,  and  horses  and 
cattle,  from  the  opposite  coast  of  Senora.  The  Padres  under- 
stand the  Indian  languages ;  they  also  have  horses  to  bear 
them  in  their  travels ;  and  they  undertake,  in  the  beginning 
of  the  year  1699,  to  explore  different  parts  of  the  country. 
Padres  Salva  Tierra  ami  Piccolo  visit  a  place  called  Londo, 
eight  leagues  northward  from  Loretto.  Here  is  found  a 
populous  village  and  some  tillable  land.  But  the  inhabitants 
flee  as  the  Padres  approach.  They  call  it  San  Juan  de  Lon- 
do. Next  they  attempt  to  penetrate  Vigge  Biaundo,  lying 
south  of  Loretto.  On  the  tenth  of  May,  the  soldiers,  after 
much  suffering  among  the  rugged  precipices,  refusing  to  go 
farther,  Padre  Piccolo  determines  to  go  alone,  and  climbs 
the  precipices  till  he  comes  to  a  village,  where  he  is  received 
by  the  savages  with  the  most  cordial  demonstrations  of  love. 
He  instructs  them  four  days*;  names  the  place  San  Xavier, 
and  departs.  Some  portions  of  this  mountain  valley  can  be  ir- 
rigated and  tilled  for  grains  and  fruit  trees.  The  neighboring 
heights  are  cragg}'  and  barren  j  about  their  bases  are  some 
fine  pasture  lands. 

From  San  Xavier,  Padre  Piccolo  goes  westward  to  the  sea, 
and  explores  its  coast  in  vain  for  a  harbor  and  habitable  lands. 
During  this  journey  he  discovers,  four  leagues  south  west  from 
San  Xavier,  a  large  village  of  tractable  Indians.  They  reside 
on  the  head  waters  of  a  fine  stream  running  westward  into 
the  Pacific; — a  beautifu.  spot  among  a  dreary  desolatioi^ 


fi 


a 


I 


c  I  F  I  r  . 

The  TiHlrcs  employ 
tribe  is  alloweil  to  take 

this  movement  of  their 
ng,  raise  a  party  to  op- 
t  and  break  it  in  pieces ; 
driven  from  the  Rround; 
avor  by  the  forgiving 
ends  Padrk  Salva  Tiek- 
II  long-boat  called  San 
I,  fruits,  and  horses  and 
)ia.    The  Padres  under- 
10  have  horses  to  bear 
rtake,  in  the  beginning 
it  parts  of  the  country, 
sit  a  place  called  Londo, 
,retto.     Here  is  found  a 
nd.     But  the  inhabitants 
call  it  San  Juan  de  Lon- 
ite  Vigge  Biaundo,  lying 
May,  the  soldiers,  after 
precipices,  refusing  to  go 
to  go  alone,  and  climbs 
age,  where  he  is  received 
il  demonstrations  of  love, 
les  the  place  San  Xavier, 
mountain  valley  can  be  ir- 
It  trees.    The  neighboring 
ibout  their  bases  are  some 

goes  westward  to  the  sea, 
harbor  and  habitable  lands, 
our  leagues  southwest  from 
;table  Indians.  They  reside 
am  running  westward  into 
mong  a  dreary  desolation. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


!f  lilM  IIIIM 

1^  IM    1112.2 

If  lis  III" 
"  lis  liio 


1.8 


1.25 

1.4 

1  1.6 

< 

6"     — 

► 

elij 


"^3 


^i 


% 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


W... 


■4 


^^ 


kl 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Instltut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


"M^ 


r 


T  R  A  V  i:  t,  S       IN       THE       C  A  L  I  F  O  R  N  I  A  S 


IGI 


which  he  consoL-ratcs  to  San  Rosalia.  At  San  Xavier,  during 
his  absence,  the  Indians  and  solchcrs  have  built  with  sun-diied 
bricks  some  small  houses  and  a  chapel.  The  Indians  from  San 
Rosalia  are  there  ;  and  Padre  Salva  Tierra  consecrates  the 
Chapel  to  San  Xavier,  with  great  devotion  and  joy.  This 
done,  Padre  Piccolo  is  left  in  charge  at  San  Xavier,  and  Pa- 
dre Salva  Tierua  returns  to  Loretto. 

The  shipj)ing  of  the  mission  at  this  time  consists  of  two  ves- 
sels, the  San  Firmin  and  San  Josef,  and  the  long-boat  San 
Xavier.     The  number  of  settlers  already  in  California  of  Spa- 
niards, half-breeds,  and  Mexican  Indians,  is  six  hundred  per- 
sons ;  and  as  the  means  of  supplying  them  with  food  from  the 
country  produce,  has  not  increased  in  proportion,  it  becomes 
necessary  to  redouble  their  diligence  to  obtain  them  elsewhere 
From  Mexico  they  can  export  nothing,  for  the  Captain  of  the 
Garrison  at  Loretto,  having  been  prevented  from  using  the 
converts  in  the  pearl  fishery,  and  thus  ruining  their  health, 
and  the  Padre's  hope  of  rearing  them  for  Heaven,  has,  by  his 
misrepresentations  of  these  benevolent  men,  rendered  ineffec- 
tual Padre  Ugarte's  efforts  in  that  quarter.    Unfortunately  also 
at  this  juncture,  the  two  ships  of  the  California  missions  are 
cast  away  !     Nothing  is  left  them  now  but  the  long-boat ! 
Distress  is  creeping  upon  them !    The  fearful,  maddening  ex- 
pectation of  starving  to  death  begins  to  be  talked  of  in  Loret- 
to, when  Padre  Salva  Tierra  takes  the  leaky  long-boat  and 
goes  to  the  great  presiding  genius  of  the  missions.  Padre  Kino, 
in  Senora,  for  relief.   These  Padres  are  devoted  friends.   They 
meet  and  embrace  each  other  warmly,  and  relate,  in  the  shades 
of  a  beautiful  evening,  all  the  hardships  which  have  befallen 
them ;  and  the  success  that  has  attended  their  labors  among 
the  savages.   Padre  Salva  Tierka  has  reduced  the  Indians  for 
the  space  of  fifty  leagues  about  Loretto  ;  founded  four  towns, 
in  which  are  six  hundred  Indian  Christians ;  two  thousand 
adult  Catechumens,  besides  many  children  j  all  of  whom  are 
now  starving ! 

Padre  Kino  entered  Senora  in  1687.     He  was  appointed  to 


162 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


the  lonely  missions  in  the  neif^hborhood  of  the  Indians  in  the 
upper  country,  called  Pimeria  Alta,  a  district  extending  threr 
hundred  miles  to  the  northward  of  Senora,  and  embracing  the 
vallies  of  the  Gila  and  the  Colorado.  He  went  alone  among 
these  wild  Indians ;  learned  their  language ;  formed  them  into 
communities ;  prevailed  upon  them  to  cultivate  grains  and  raise 
cattle ;  and,  by  the  aid  of  subordinate  agents,  has  reformed  their 
civil  polity;  and  indoctrinated  them  in  the  mysteries  and 
hopes  of  the  Catholic  faith.  And  such  is  the  reverent  love  of 
these  savages  for  the  excellent  Padre  that  they  greet  him 
everywhere  as  little  children  do  a  kind  parent,  who  comes 
to  bless  and  love  them.  This  influence  he  uses  only  for  their 
good.  He  procures  from  his  Sovereign  an  edict  against  their 
being  seized  by  the  Spaniards  and  immersed  in  the  mines  to 
labor  till  dead !  He  acquaints  the  Vice-Royal  Government  at 
Mexico  that  the  military  powers  often  accuse  them  of  rebel- 
lion, and  make  war  upon  them  for  the  base  purp(«e  of  taking 
them  captives  to  dive  for  pearls  and  dig  in  the  mountains  for 
tlie  precious  metals,  and  procures  a  cessation  of  such  barbari- 
ty. This  is  a  great  work  of  mercy.  For  previously,  in  all 
those  regions,  it  has  been  customary  for  the  civil  and  military 
authorities  to  make  the  Indians  labor  on  the  lands  or  in  the 
mines  five  years  after  their  conversion.  They  pay  for  Chris- 
tianity in  their  hearts  by  the  servitude  of  their  bodies.  And 
seldom  do  the  poor  Indians  live  to  be  free  again,  after  'bis 
chain  of  avarice  is  put  upon  tliem.  Very  many  are  the  clus- 
ters of  little  wooden  crosses,  near  these  mines,  which  stand 
over  the  graves  of  those  who  have  been  worked  to  death  in 
their  deep  and  dismal  depths  !  Padre  Kino  gives  them  liber- 
ty ;  builds  them  houses  and  chapels ;  teaches  them  agricul- 
ture and  many  other  useful  arts.  Their  animals  now  range  on 
a  thousand  hills ;  their  ploughs  turn  the  soil  of  a  thousand 
fields ;  and  their  belfries  send  their  peals  for  prayer  and  praise 
up  a  thousand  vales ! 

Such  is  the  result  of  the  labors  of  Padre  Kino  in  Pimeria, 
and  such  the  happy  condition  of  the  numerous  tribes  of  In* 


A  CI  F 1 C , 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIP0RNIA8. 


163 


of  the  Indians  in  the 

istrict  extending  thrcr 

lora,  and  embracing  the 

He  went  alone  among 

lage ;  formed  them  into 

ultivate  grains  and  raise 

gents,  has  reformed  their 

1  in  the  mysteries  and 

ti  is  the  reverent  love  of 

e  that  they  greet  him 

ind  parent,  who  comes 

ce  he  uses  only  for  their 

rn  an  edict  against  their 

nmersed  in  the  mines  to 

ce-Royal  Government  at 

n  accuse  them  of  rebel- 

e  base  purp(«e  of  taking 

ilig  in  the  mountains  for 

cessation  of  such  baibari- 

For  previously,  in  all 

for  the  civil  and  military 

r  on  the  lands  or  in  the 

3n.     They  pay  for  Chris- 

de  of  their  bodies.     And 

be  free  again,  after  *his 

Very  many  are  the  clns- 

these  mines,  which  stand 

!  been  worked  to  death  in 

IRE  Kino  gives  them  liber- 

s;  teaches  them  agricul- 

beir  animals  now  range  on 

xn  the  soil  of  a  thousand 

)eals  for  prayer  and  praise 

jf  Padre  Kino  in  Pimeria, 
he  numerous  tribes  of  In* 


dlans  on  the  waters  of  the  Gila  and  Colorado  in  the  year  170(X 
These  Padres  have  wrought  well  in  the  vineyards  of  the  Faith. 
And  they  are  now  met  to  converse  about  the  fate  of  these  la- 
bors. They  have  learned  that  malice  has  destroyed  their  in- 
terest in  Mexico  and  Spain.  They  know  that  the  lives  of  the 
garrison  at  Loretto  depend  on  their  sole  energy  and  means. 
And  well  would  it  be  lor  the  distressed  everywhere  if  the  re- 
lief which  they  need  were  dependent  on  such  hearts  and  heads 
as  those  of  the  Padres  Kino  and  Salva  Tierra.  The  Indian 
farms  are  laid  under  contribution,  and  the  keel  of  genuine 
mercy  is  fast  cutting  its  way  to  Loretto  to  feed  the  dying ' 
Words,  wishes,  speeches,  associations,  societies,  general  and 
special  committee  rooms,  and  newspapers  devoted  to  "  the 
cause,"  are  the  outlets  and  substance  of  benevolence  in  the 
seventeenth  century — an  untiring  chase  after  the  shade  of  a 
great  idea.  In  the  seventeenth,  these  hated  priests  of  an 
odious  order,  whose  name  has  come  to  be  the  common  terra 
of  the  most  refined  knavery,  and  even  introduced  into  our 
lexicons  as  the  appellation  for  the  basest  villany,  perform  acts 
of  the  highest  virtue,  endure  hardships  of  the  severest  charac- 
ter, and  make  sacrifices  of  the  noblest  nalure,  for  a  class  of 
beings  who  will  never  have  intelligence  enough  to  appreciate 
them. 

After  succors  are  sent  to  California,  these  Padres  agree  to 
explore  the  northwest  country,  in  order  to  ascertain  whether 
California  be  an  island,  or  whether  it  be  merely  a  peninsula. 
This  question  is  deemed  of  great  moment  to  the  missions  in 
California ;  for  if  supplies  can  be  sent  by  land  from  Padre 
Kino's  mission  to  Loretto,  the  expense  of  shipping  to  carry 
them  across  Uie  Gulf  will  be  avoided,  iiiid  the  certainty  of 
their  arrival  much  increased.  Accordingly,  it  is  agreed 
that  Padres  Kino  and  Salva  Tierra  shall  take  differ- 
ent routes  towards  the  Colorado.  They  determine  to 
visit,  on  the  way,  Padre  Kino's  converts  at  the  several 
missions  in  that  region,  and  meet  at  Mission  de  Itolores. 
Accordingly  Padre    Salva   Tierra  goes  by  San  Ignacio, 


164 


8  C  R  N  E  S      IN 


THE      PACIFIC 


San  Diepo   de   U.iuitoa,    and    San    Diepo  de  Pitqnin,  to 
river  Caborca,  and  loUows    its  course  to  Tibutama,   Axi, 
Concepcion    de    Caborca;    while    Padkk    Kino    takes    the 
route    by    Cocospera,    San    Simon  and  Jude ;    strikes  the 
river  Caborca  and  follows  its  banks  through  Tierra  Tibutama, 
and  other  villages,  to  the  place  of  rendezvous.     Thence  the 
Padres,  accompanied  by  ten  soldiers,  go  northward  to  San 
Erluardo  de  Baissia,  San  Luis  de  Bacapa,  and  thence  twelve 
leagues  to  San  Marcello.     This  latter  place  lies  northeast 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  Colorado,  fifty  leagues  north  of 
the  latitude  of  the  Gila,  the  same  distance  from  the  river  Ca- 
borca and  the  same  distance  eastward  from  San  Xavier  del 
Bac.     The  soil  of  this  valley  is  fit  for  tillage  and  pasturage, 
and  abounding  in  water  for  all  uses.     It  is  surrounded  by 
deserts  and  lofty  mountains.     Here  they  are  informed  by  the 
Indians  of  two  ways  to  approach  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  ; 
the  one  to  the  right  over  the  mountains  and  valley  of  Santa 
Clara,  the  other  and  the  shorter  along  the  coast  over  a  broad 
tract  of  sands.      The  Padres  desire  to  examine  the  coast, 
and  for  this  reason,  unfortunately,  choose  the  latter  route 
They  travel  thirty  leagues  on  the  south  side  of  the  mountains 
in  search  of  the  Gulf;  pas?  a  large  section  of  the  mountains, 
composed  of  pumice  stone;  and  on  the  nineteenth  of  March, 
arrive  at  the  sandy  waste.     On  the  twentieth.  Padre  Kino 
and  Captain  Mateo  Mange,  ascend  a  lofty  peak  in  Lat.  30= 
N.,  and  not  only  see  the  Gulf  but  the  opposite  shore  and 
mountains  of  California.     On  the  twenty-first  they  reach  the 
beach.     Want  of  fresh  water,  and  the  difficulty  of  wading  in 
the  loose  and  burning  sand,  compels  them  to  return  to  Marcel- 
lo, and  take  a  higher  track,  in  Lat.  32^  30',  where  they  ascend 
a  hill  of  moderate  height,  from  which  are  clearly  seen  the  moun- 
tains of  California,  the  termination  of  the  Gulf,  the  mouth  of  the 
Colorado,  the  junction  of  California  with  the  continent !     The 
PapukKino  jciylully  returns  to  San  Marcello  to  build  a  church 
and  give  directions  for  a  new  mission,  while  Salva  Tierra  goes 
to  Cabwca  Delores  and  the  other  missions  of  Senora,  collect- 


PACIFIC. 

I  Diepo  de  Pitquin,  to 
ursc  to  Tibutama,  Axi, 
Padkk  Kino  takes  the 
I  and  Jude  ;  strikes  the 
through  Tierra  Tibutama, 

rendezvous.  Thence  the 
rs,  go  northward  to  San 
acapa,  and  thence  twelve 
atter  place  lies  northeast 
lo,  fifty  leagues  north  of 
stance  from  the  river  Ca- 
ard  from  San  Xavier  del 
for  tillage  and  pasturage, 
ises.     It  is  surrounded  by 

they  are  informed  by  the 
he  mouth  of  the  Colorado  ; 
itains  and  valley  of  Santa 
ong  the  coast  over  a  broad 
iire  to  examine  the  coast, 
y,  choose  the  latter  route 
south  side  of  the  mountains 
re  section  of  the  mountains, 
n  the  nineteenth  of  March, 

the  twentieth,  Padre  Kino 
(1  a  lofty  peak  in  Lat,  30- 
)ut  the  opposite  shore  and 
twenty-first  they  reach  the 
1  the  difficulty  of  wading  in 
;ls  them  to  return  to  Marcel- 
,  32^  30',  where  they  ascend 
ch  are  clearly  seen  the  moun- 
of  the  Gulf,  the  mouth  of  the 
ia  with  the  continent !     The 
n  Mnrcello  to  build  a  church 
ion,  while  Salva  Tierka  goes 
:r  missions  of  Senora,  coUect- 


TRAVEL8      IN      THE      CALIF0RNIA9. 


1G5 


ing  charities  for  California,  and  with  heightened  expectations 
of  saving  the  lives  of  his  friends  at  Lorelto,  ships  himself 
and  tliein  in  the  ohl  long-boat  San  Xavier  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Hiaqui,  and  arrives  at  Loretlo  the  latter  end  of 
April,  1701.  Joy  fills  the  camp  on  the  arrival  of  the  good 
Padre ;  and  earnest  thanksgivings  are  offered  in  the  chapel  by 
his  spiritual  children  on  account  of  his  return. 

Here  we  leave  California  for  a  brief  space  to  follow  good 
old  Paure  Kino  through  the  labors  of  his  last  days.  In  No- 
vember of  1701  he  takes  another  excursion  to  San  Marcello 
by  a  new  route,  and  thence  onward  to  the  Gila.  He  fords 
this  river  at  San  Dionysio  near  its  junction  with  the  Colorado  ; 
and  having  viewed  the  neighboring  country,  repasses  the  Gila 
and  descends  the  Colorado  twenty  leagues,  among  the  villages 
of  the  Yumas  and  Quinquimas.  Here  vast  numbers  of  Indians 
come  to  see  the  Piidre  and  hear  him  speak  of  the  white  man's 
God.  The  Colorado  at  this  place  is  two  hundred  yards  wide. 
The  Indians  swim  it.  If  they  desire  to  take  anything  across, 
it  is  placed  in  a  water-tight  basket,  made  of  rushes  and  herbs 
called  Corysta,  and  floated  along  before  them.  Padre  Kino 
crosses  the  river  on  a  raft  made  of  tree-lops,  and  finds  on  the 
other  shore,  great  numbers  of  Quinquimas,  Coanopas,  Bagio- 
pas  and  Octguanes  Indians,  to  whom  he  explains,  by  means 
of  interpreters,  the  nature  of  the  true  God  and  the  after  state. 
He  travels  on  foot  three  leagues  to  the  residence  of  the  chief 
of  the  Quinquimas.  The  country  over  which  he  passes  is 
level,  and  covered  with  a  soil  fit  for  tillage  and  grazing.  He 
cal's  the  place  Presentacion  de  Nuestra  Senora.  In  this  neigh- 
borhood he  sees  ten  thousand  Indians.  Padre  Kino  is  very 
desirous  of  travelling  to  Monterey  and  Cape  Mendocino. 
But  it  being  impossible  for  his  animals  to  ford  the  river,  he 
reluctantly  gives  up  the  hope  of  progressing  farther,  and 
returns  to  his  missions  in  Pimeria. 

In  February,  1702,  Padre  Kino  journeys  in  company  with 
Martin  Gonzales.  On  thetwenty-eightli  they  arri-^e  at  San  Dio« 
nysio,  at  the  junction  of  the  Gila  aiid  Colorado.    On  the  way 


J 


letJ  81KNE8      IN       THE      PACIFIC 

and  at  this  place  the  Indians  throng  the  path  of  this  good  man. 
kneeling  like  children  to  a  loved  grands.re  f-  a  ble   •  g. 
l!  March  thev  advance  as  far  as  the  village  of  the  Qum- 
•    Ittd  name  it  San  Rudesindo.     These  In.lians  show 
Thiovetow^  si  Padres,  and  even  toward,  the  beasts 
Z fhear  Ihl    The  good  Padre  Gonzales  is  affected  to  tea« 
by  these  demonstrations;  and  strips  off  a  part  of  his  own 
I'ardobe  to  clothe  an  aged  man  who  follows  Inn.     Th  y 
Tow  travel  down  the  Colorado  to  its  entrance  into  the  Gulf. 
HeTe  many  Indians  come  from  the  western  shore  and  entreat 
The  Padri  to  pass  over  into  their  country.     They  earn  from 
hem  t'.at  the  Pacific  is  ten  days'  iourney  from  this  place.    The 
night  of  the  tenth  is  spent  at  the  point  where  the  river  and  the 
Gulf  meet.     The  tide  rises  very  high  and  swashes  near  the^r 
clhes ;  horned  night^wls  hoot  on  the  crags  ;  Padre  Gon- 
zai  groans  with  extreme  illness!    These  Padres  have  de- 
i'ed' to  cross  the  river  at  this  nlace,  and  travel  over  he 
fountains  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.     But  Padre  Kino  sees  the 
r^Uy  of  returnuig  with  his  sick  brother.     He  succeed^  m 
getting    him  to  the  mission  of  Tibutama    -^ere  he  d.«.. 
Lath  in  the  wilderness,  to  one  who  goes  into  't«  depths  to 
Lthe  seedsof  salvation,  is  sweet.     The  desires  of  the  mind 
touch  the  earth  lightly.     Their  objects  are  things  of  aunigh 
and  trast.     The  hand  of  hope  is  laid  on  the  skies !    The  eye 
follows  it  to  the  temple  of  immortal  faith;  is  absorbed  and 
fixed  there,  to  the  exclusion  of  everything  material      The 
x,ains  iAcidcnt  to  the  separation  of  the  living  P"n<^'Pl«  ^^^ 
the  body,  are  like  brambles  which  one  passes  to  fields  oi 
flowers  and  fruits,  singing  birds,  pebbly  streams,  and  odorous 
shades.     And  the  grave  itself  becomes  m  truth  the  p^-w^. 
only  to  the  full  enjoyment  of  the  proper  objects  of  the  moral 
sense,  without  mnit  or  satiety.     So  this  -"'^'-^^^les,  and 
.s  buried  among  the  graves  of  Indian  Christians  at  Tibutama^ 
The  years  1703,  1704,  and  1705,  Padre  Ki^o  spends  m 
buildinc  up  the  missions  of  Pimeria,  and  in  resisting  the  per- 
^^  raised  against  him  because  he  will  not  permit  the 


l>  A  C  I  H  C 

,e  path  of  this  good  man. 
;raiidsire  for  a  blessing, 
the  village  of  the  Quin- 
X     These  Indians  show 
even  towards  the  beastfl 
inzales  is  affected  to  tears 
s  off  a  part  of  his  own 
vho  follows  hini.    They 
:s  entrance  into  the  Gulf, 
vestern  shore  and  entreat 
auntry.     They  learn  from 
rney  from  this  place.    The 
int  where  the  river  and  the 
rrh  and  swashes  near  their 
n  the  cracks  ;  Padre  Gon- 
1    These  Padres  have  de- 

nlace,  and  travel  over  the 
But  Padre  Kino  sees  the 
k  brother.     He  succeeds  in 
ributama,  where  he  dies, 
k^ho  goes  into  its  depths  to 
:.     The  desires  of  the  mind 
jjects  are  things  of  thought 
laid  on  the  skies!    The  eye 
•rtal  faith  ;  is  absorbed  and 

everything  material.  The 
of  the  living  principle  from 
ich  one  passes  to  fields  ol 
pebbly  streams,  and  odorous 
comes  in  truth  the  pass-way 
3  proper  objects  of  the  moral 

So  this  missionary  dies,  and 
idian  Christians  at  Tibutama. 
1705,  Padre  Kfno  spends  in 
leria,  and  in  resisting  the  per- 
icause  he  will  not  permit  the 


TRAVKLS       IN       THE       CALIFORNFAS. 


107 


owners  of  the  mines  and  plantiitions  to  enslave  his  converts. 
Ilavinjr  MO  one  to  assist  him  in  so  wiilt;  a  iirovince,  he  is  al- 
most constantly  tiavollini^"  from  one  mission  to  another,  ex- 
hoiting,  encouraging, disciplining,  and  protecting  his  spiritual 
children.  These  duties  task  severely  the  tottering  strength  of 
the  good  old  man.  Jiiit  he  labors  without  intermission  or 
discouragement,  as  he  ripens  for  his  reward.  Nor  docs  his 
ardent  interest  in  the  Californian  missions  abate.  Every  few 
months  he  forwards  to  Loretto  iiis  largesses  of  provisions  and 
animals.  But  as  the  expense  of  supporting  shipping  for  that 
pmpose  becomes  more  and  more  apparent  and  perplexing,  he 
determines  once  more  to  attempt  an  exploration  of  a  land 
route,  by  which  supplies  can  be  sent  from  the  mission  on  the 
Gila  down  the  coast  to  Loretto.  Accordingly,  in  170G,  he 
tuins  his  footsteps  again  towards  the  Colorado,  in  company 
with  the  chief  military  officers  of  Senora,  and  the  Franciscan 
monk,  Manuel  de  Ojuela.  This  last  expedition  of  Padke 
Kino  results  in  confirming  his  previous  discoveries.  But  be- 
ing unable  to  penetrate  to  Loretto,  he  returns  to  his  missions, 
and  defends  them  with  the  same  dauntless  courage  against  the 
avarice  and  cruelty  of  the  miners,  and  the  civil  and  military 
powers,  till  1710,  when  he  passes  from  the  scenes  of  his  be- 
nevolence and  trials  to  his  grave. 

There  are  few  good  men  in  the  world.  Consequently,  when 
one  of  this  class  dies,  there  is  a  jewel  lost  from  the  crown  of 
earthly  virtue.  ALL  feel  the  loss  of  its  light,  and  grope 
nearer  to  the  ground  in  their  way  onward  to  their  destiny. 
Padre  Kino  has  given  his  best  energies  to  the  Pimerian  and 
Californian  missions.  The  poor  Indians  on  both  sides  of  the 
Gulf  have  been  accustomed  to  eat  his  bread  and  receive  his 
blessing.  The  bells  now  toll  through  all  Pimeria  and  Senora, 
at  Loretto  and  San  Xavier.  The  Indians  kneel  in  their  rude 
chapels,  and  pray  for  his  soul,  and  invoke  for  him  the  good 
fellowship  of  departed  saints  Padre  Kino  is  buried  among 
the  heights  of  Pimeria,  the  scene  of  his  trials  and  hopes.  His 
grave  is  lost  among  the  driving  sands  of  those  desolate  re- 
gions ;  but  his  good  deeds  will  live  for  ever 


CHAPTER  X. 

Meeting  of  PAnnr.s  Sai.va  TiKun*  and  Uffarie- A  Plot-Bu.Tiinfrof 
Xavier-Ugurtu  at  San  Xavicr-Faminc-A  Runaway-A  Mi.rikT- 
A  Campai«n-RojoicinKs-A  Tcmpost-An  Arrival  of  Foo.l  an,l  Sol- 
diers-Mea>^urcs  for  thu  Advancoinenl  of  tho  ConquRst-Exploration  of 
the  Intcvior-Sackin-,' of  San  Xavier-Massacres-A  ConrlMariial- 
An  Execuiion-Peacc-RM't''""^'"  '"  ^''«  Norih-DiMres,s-A  Council, 
and  ils  Ucsults-En.lurancc-lloaining  and  Starving-An  Altack- 
SA1.VA  TiEanA  kaves  California-IIis  Rctnrn-Ext.-n^ion  of  the  Con- 
nuest-Ligni,  and  a  great  Examplc-A  CImstisement-A  mnrderotis 
Attempt-Mulege-Cada  Kaaman-The  Triumph  of  the  Good-Poi- 
son — Death. 

During  the  absence  of  Padre  Salva  Tierha  in  Pimeria, 
Padre  Ugarte  has  arrived  at  Loretto  with  a  few  supphes. 
The  meeting  of  these  two  men  in  that  distant  land  is  warm 
and  hearty.     They  have  labored  long  in  the  same  cause- 
have  hoped  ardently  for  the  same  result— the  growth  of  the 
tree  of  life  on  the  shores  of  California.     The  one  has  used 
his  utmost  energies  at  Mexico  and  Guadalaxara  to  procure 
the  means  to  support  the  other,  while  breaking  up  the  ground 
and  casting  in  the  seed.     And  yvhen  all  his  efforts  are  closing 
in  disappointment,  and  the  dark  night  of  malice  is  casting 
gloom  over  them,  and  his  expectations  are  giving  place  to 
despair,  he  flies  to  his  fellow-laborer  in  the  wilderness,  to  die 
with  him,  if  need  be,  in  a  last  struggle  to  bring  the  Californian 
Indians  within  the  fold  of  the  Catholic  faith.     After  thanks 
are  rendered  to  God  for  the  favor  of  meeting  again,  the  Pa- 
dres earnestly  resolve  to  sustain  the  sinking  missions.     It  is 
agreed,  therefore,  that  Padre  Piccolo  shall  go  to  Mexico  and 
make  farther  trial  to  obtain  funds  for  that  purpose.     He  ac- 
cordingly puts  to  sea,  but  is  driven  back  by  a  tempest;  and 
again  he  leaves  the  harbor,  but  is  again  compelled  to  return. 


T 


r 


TRAVELS      IN       THE      CAI.  tFORNIAS. 


169 


-  A  Plot— Bu.TJinpof  Baa 
A  Runaway— A  MiinliT— 
1  Arrival  of  Fnoil  and  Sol- 
;  ConquRst— Exploration  of 
nacres— A  Court  Martial  — 
jrih— Distres.s— A  Council, 
ul  Starving— An  Attack— 
irn— Extension  of  the  Con- 
liastisement— A  miirilerous 
'riuinph  of  the  Good— Poi- 

VA  TiERSA  in  Piraeria, 
3  with  a  few  supplies, 
t  distant  land  is  warm 
g  in  the  same  cause — 
jult — the  growth  of  the 
ia.     The  one  has  used 
luadalaxara  to  procure 
breakini;  up  the  ground 
ill  his  efforts  are  closing 
;ht  of  malice  is  casting 
3ns  are  giving  place  to 
in  the  wilderness,  to  die 
e  to  bring  the  Californian 
jlic  faith.     After  thanks 
meeting  again,  the  Pa- 
sinking  missions.     It  is 
shall  go  to  Mexico  and 
)r  that  purpose.     He  ac- 
back  by  a  tempest ;  and 
Tain  compelled  to  return. 


These  unfavorable  trials  induce  him  to  j)ostpone  his  voyage 
to  a  more  favoral)lo  si-asoii.  He  rt-turns,  therefore,  to  his 
misnion  at  San  Xavier,  and  Padre  Ugarte  remains  at  Loretto 
with  Padke  Sai,va  Tiekka,  to  karn  tlie  Indian  language,  and 
assist  wherever  his  services  may  be  needed. 

Another  class  of  events  now  transpire  which  change  some- 
what the  aspect  of  affairs  among  them,  and  give  hope  of 
better  things.  The  military  commandant,  who  has,  by  his 
misrepresentations,  rendered  abortive  the  efforts  of  Padre 
Ugarte,  at  Mexico,  finds  that  the  authorities  will  not  relieve 
him  from  subordination  to  tlie  Padres,  and  resigns.  Captain 
Don  Antonio  Garcia  de  Mendoza  is  therefore  succeeded  by  one 
Isadore  de  Figu»;roa.  This  man,  however,  proves  unworthy 
of  his  trust  in  a  difficulty  with  the  savages  of  San  Xavier. 
The  Indians  of  that  mission  plan  the  murder  of  Padre  Piccolo. 
And  led  on  by  the  conjurors,  or  priests  of  their  old  religion, 
they  come  down  upon  the  few  converts  who  remain  faithful, 
with  such  violence  as  to  get  possession  of  the  premises  j  and 
enraged  at  the  Padre's  escape  to  Loretto,  burn  the  mission 
buildings  and  furniture.  A  number  of  the  converts  have  been 
killed  in  this  outbreak ;  the  fields  of  San  Xavier,  the  only 
grounds  within  the  limits  of  the  missions  on  which  grain  can 
be  grown,  are  laid  waste  ;  the  success  of  the  savages  in  this 
instance  will  embolden  them  to  attack  Loretto.  All  these, 
as  reasons,  determine  the  Padres  to  send  Captain  Figueroa 
with  his  soldiers  to  chastise  them  and  recover  the  mission. 
Accordingly  he  marches  his  troops  to  San  Xavier.  The  In- 
dians flee  before  him.  The  soldiers  desire  to  pursue  them. 
But  the  commander  forbids  it ;  and  otherwise  shows  such  a 
want  of  courage  and  manliness,  that  the  soldiers  depose  him, 
and  elect  in  his  stead,  Don  Estevan  Rodriguez  Lorenzo, 
who  leads  them  in  pursuit  among  the  breaks  of  the  moun- 
tains ;  but  without  success. 

At  the  end  of  this  year,  1700,  Padre  Fgarte  having  learn- 
ed the  Indian  language,  and  the  Indians  of  San  Xavier  having 
become  satisfied  and  peaceable,  it  is  resolved  to  rebuild  the 


■  CENE8       IN       TIIF.       PACIFIC. 


.nission  and  put  it  under  his  charge.  Arconlingly  he  leavei 
Lnrctto  for  thiit  purpose.  But  on  arrivimj;  there,  the  Inchans, 
through  fear  of  the  .sohhfs  that  aci'omj)any  him,  run  into  the 
iiKtuntains.  The  I'adre,  nowise  discouraged  by  this  circura> 
stance,  takes  up  liis  quarters  on  the  site  of  the  burned  mission, 
and  awaits  their  rcluni.  Meanwhile  the  soldiers,  not  having 
Indians  to  servo  them,  prove  tro'iblesome.  They  abuse  the 
Pa(he  anil  one  another  in  such  manner  that  he  determines 
to  trust  himself  with  the  Indians,  rather  than  any  longer 
sulItT  tlitir  insok'iit  behavior;  and  accordingly  sends  them 
back  to  Loretto.  After  the  departure  of  the  soldiers,  Padre 
Ugarte  remains  alone  all  day  about  the  ashes  of  the  mission 
and  the  graves  of  those  who  were  killed  at  the  time  it  was 
destroyed  !  He  does  not  know  how  Roon  they  will  fall  upon 
him  likewise,  and  take  his  lil'e.  Night  comes  on  and  passes 
away  ;  and  he  is  yet  alone.  At  daylight  a  httle  Indian  lad 
comes  shyly,  about  the  Padre's  couch ;  is  treated  kindly  by 
him;  examines  the  fields,  and  hastily  returns  to  his  tribe: 
and  shortly  afterward  the  good  Padre  is  surrounded  by  hun- 
dreds of  Indians  rejoicing  at  his  arrival,  and  protesting  that 
soldiers  are  disagreeable  members  of  their  community.  The 
Padre  and  the  Indians  now  unite  their  energies  to  rebuild  the 
mission.  The  first  lal)or  of  Ugarte  is,  to  secure  their  regular 
attendance  on  the  catechising,  the  prayers  and  mass;  and  by 
kind  and  allable  treatment,  lo  alienate  them  from  their  sorcer- 
ers ;  the  second  is,  to  accustom  fhein  to  till  the  land  and  take 
care  of  the  cattle.  To  accomplish  these  objects  he  induces 
them  early  in  the  morning  to  attend  mass ;  after  which  he 
feeds  those  who  will  engage  in  erecting  the  church  or  clear- 
ing the  land  for  cultivation,  or  making  trenches  for  irrigation, 
or  digging  holes  for  planting  trees,  or  preparing  the  ground 
for  sowing  seed.  In  the  progress  of  these  labors  the  good 
Padre  works  more  than  any  of  them.  He  is  overseer,  brick- 
layer and  farmer.  He  is  first  in  bringing  stones,  first  in 
treading  clay  for  mortar,  in  mixing  sand,  cutting,  carrying, 
bringing  timber,  removing  earth  and  fixing  materials ;  some- 


r  F  I  c  . 

conrmirly  he  leavei 
itr  (hcrf,  the  Indians, 
ifiy  liiin,  run  into  the 
aged  by  this  circum- 
t  the  burned  mission, 
3  soldiers,  not  having 
le.     They  abuse  the 
r  that  he  determines 
her  than  any  longer 
:ordingly  sends  them 
if  tlie  sohliers,  Pa(he 
aslies  of  the  mission 
:d  at  the  time  it  was 
on  they  will  tall  upon 
t  comes  on  and  passes 
ht  a  little  Indian  lad 
;  is  treated  kindly  by 
returns  to  his  tribe: 
s  surrounded  by  hun- 
1,  and  protesting  that 
heir  community.     The 
energies  to  rebuild  the 
to  secure  their  regular 
ers  and  mass ;  and  by 
(hem  from  their  sorcer- 
o  till  the  land  and  take 
lese  objects  he  induces 
mass;  after  which  he 
ig  the  church  or  clear- 
trenches  for  irrigation, 
preparing  the  ground 
these  labors  the  good 
He  is  overseer,  brick- 
iriiiging  stones,  first  in 
sand,  cutting,  carrying, 
fixing  materials  j  some- 


TRA"EI,  «       tN       TIIK       i:  A  I,  I  K  o  l(  N  r  A  fl  . 


171 


tl'U'S  spa(!in.f  up  the  i:;n)iirid,  Sdinctiiins  splilting  tu<\i.  ..ilh 
II  I'KiwIiar,  .soiMftinifs  turniiiix  watrr  into  the  trenches,  and 
Hi  others  leadini;  the  beasts  ami  cattle,  which  he  has  procured 
for  his  mission,  to  pasture  and  to  wMvr.  By  his  own  ex- 
aiiiph;  he  teaches  tluiii  to  throw  olF their  natinal  sloth, to  fet.nl 
themselves  and  live  like  rational  l)tini;s.  Hut  this  great  ex- 
ample does  not  sulfiie  to  wean  them  from  a  love  of  the  woods, 
and  a  listless  and  starving  inaction.  A  thousand  times  they 
try  his  patience,  by  coming  late  to  mass  and  to  work,  anil  by 
running  away  and  jeering  liiin,  and  sometimes  threatening  and 
l{)rming  combinations  to  take  his  life.  All  this  the  old  man 
bears  with  unwearied  patience,  kindness,  and  holy  fortitude. 
In  the  evening  the  Padre  leads  them  again  to  tlieir  devotions. 
At  this  time  the  rosary  is  prayed  over,  and  the  catechism  ex- 
plained ;  and  this  service  is  ibllowed  by  the  distribution  of 
some  provisions. 

At  first  these  Indians  jest  and  jeer  at  the  service,  and  mock 
at  what  he  says.  This  the  Padre  bears  patiently,  till  he  finds 
forbearance  increases  the  evil,  and  then  makes  a  very  dan- 
gerous attempt  to  suppress  it.  An  Indian  in  high  repute 
among  his  fellows  for  physical  strength,  stands  near  him 
duiing  service,  and  mocks  at  all  that  he  does.  The  other  In- 
dians, regarding  bodily  strength  as  the  only  quality  of  great- 
ness, are  vastly  pleased  that  their  champion  seems  the  superior 
of  the  Padre.  Ugarte  perceives  by  their  bearing,  that  he  is 
losing  their  confidence.  He  therefore  seizes  the  savage,  in 
the  midst  of  his  profanity,  by  the  hair  of  his  head,  and  swings 
him  to  and  fro,  with  determined  violence,  till  he  begs  for  quar- 
ter. This  so  frightens  the  tribe  that  they  afterwards  behave 
with  strict  decormn  when  engaged  in  religious  duties.  The 
work  of  building  the  mission  edifices,  however,  goes  on  slowly. 
The  Padre,  carefid  not  to  weary  his  Indians  with  labor,  at  fre- 
quent intervals  instructs  their  stupid  minds  in  the  best  methods 
of  performing  their  tasks,  and  most  especially,  in  the  know- 
ledge of  their  Maker.  In  succeeding  years  he  enjoys  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  his  neophytes  well  instructed  in  the  doc- 


172 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC, 


tiint'S  of  the  Catholic  Church,  inured  to  patient  labor,  and 
residing  in  comfortable  houses.  He  has  turned  the  mountain 
streams  along  the  crags,  ami  changed  the  barrf.n  dust  of  the 
mountains  into  cultivated  fields,  burdened  with  harvests  ot 
wheat,  maize,  and  other  grains.  He  even  makes  generous 
wines,  sufficient  to  supply  the  missions  in  California,  and  an 
overplus  to  exchange  in  Mexico  for  other  goods.  He  like- 
wise breeds  horses  and  sheep,  cattle  and  mules.  Indeed,  such 
is  the  success  of  Padre  Ugarte's  fortitude  and  industay,  that 
in  1707  he  becomes  the  Purveyor-tJcncral  of  the  missions, 
and  relieves  them  by  the  produce  of  his  converts'  labor,  from 
some  of  the  fears  of  starvation  on  that  desolate  coast. 

Thus  has  this  excellent  man,  in  the  course  of  seven  years, 
opened,  by  his  individual  influence  on  the  Californian  Indians, 
a  large  plantation,  the  products  of  which,  in  favorable  seasons, 
feed  thousands  of  savages  and  seven  hundred  whites.  His 
efforts  now  take  another  direction.  His  sheep,  brought  origi- 
nally from  the  opposite  coast,  have  increased  to  such  an  ex- 
tent, as  to  yield  large  quantities  of  wool.  This  the  Padre 
determines  shall  be  made  to  clothe  his  naked  Indians.  He, 
therefore,  with  his  own  hanc^s,  makes  spinning-wheels,  looms, 
and  other  weaving  apparatus,  and  teaches  his  Indians  to  use 
them.  In  order  to  perfect  them  in  these  manufactures,  he 
obtains  a  master  weaver,  one  Antonio  Moran,  from  Tiepic, 
under  a  salary  of  five  hundred  dollars  per  annum,  to  instruct 
them  in  weaving,  and  various  other  handicrafts.  By  these 
new  manufactures,  the  missions  are  saved  vast  expenses  for 
sail-cloth  and  baize.  The  Indians  are  clad  ;  the  grains  and 
vegetables,  although  not  a  full  supply,  are  ordinarily  suf- 
ficient to  prevent  famine.  The  cattle  and  the  other  animals 
being  ar'ded  to  these,  suffice  to  meet  the  necessities  of  the 
Califor...an  missions.  A  deed  of  true  benevolence  performed, 
where  human  praise  can  never  speak  of  it,  is  a  jewel  in  the 
crown  of  our  nature,  which  can  never  be  dimmed.  How  it 
beams  on  the  robes  of  the  good  man  as  he  steps  into  his 
grave !    How  't  glistens  in  the  tear  of  silent  gratitude  that  u 


CI F! C  . 

0  patient  labor,  and 
tiuneil  the  mountain 

he  barrfii  dust  of  the 

ned  with  harvests  ol 

ven  makes  generous 

in  California,  and  an 

her  goods.     He  like- 

1  mules.  Indeed,  such 
ude  and  indusUy,  that 
leral  of  the  missions, 
i  converts'  labor,  from 
desolate  coast. 

course  of  seven  years, 
he  Californian  Indians, 
h,  in  favorable  seasons, 

hundred  whites.  His 
is  sheep,  brought  origi- 
creasod  to  such  an  ex- 
wool.  This  the  Padre 
is  naked  Indians.  He, 
spinning-wheels,  looms, 
saches  his  Indians  to  use 

these  manufactures,  he 
lie  Moran,  from  Tepic, 
•s  per  annum,  to  instruct 
•  handicrafts.  By  these 
saved  vast  expenses  for 
re  clad  ;  the  grains  and 
,ply,  are  ordinarily  suf- 
le  and  the  other  animals 
et  the  necessities  of  the 

benevolence  performed, 

k  of  it,  is  a  jewel  in  the 

iver  be  dimmed.     How  it 

nan  as  he  steps  into  his 

of  silent  gratitude  that  ii 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFORNIAS, 


173 


shed  over  the  tomb  of  the  dead,  as  ages  crumble  it  into  dust ! 
IIow  rich  a  halo  does  it  throw  back  on  all  after  time,  a  rem- 
nant light  of  Bethlehem's  holy  star,  to  lead  the  living  to  the 
same  happy  use  of  their  capacities  !  These  Indians'  remote 
descendants  will  forget  this  good  man.  But  his  deeds  will 
live  in  their  virtues. 

We  will  now  look  into  the  movements  of  Padres  Salva 
I  TiERBA  and  Piccolo.     Near  the  end  of  the  year  1701,  the  pro- 

i  visions  which  Padre  Kimo  has  sent  to  Lorctto,  are  exhausted, 

and  Padre  Piccolo's  departure  to  Mexico  for  a  supply  is  has- 
tened. He  sails  on  the  second  of  December,  leaving  the  Pa- 
dres, the  garrison  and  Indians  in  absolute  want.  For  sixty  days 
they  subsist  o.i  roots,  wild  fruits,  and  a  few  fish  which  they 
find  washeil  up  on  the  shore.  On  the  twenty-ninth  of  January, 
1702,  however,  their  distress  is  changed  to  gladness  by  the 
arrival  of  a  boat  from  Pailre  Piccolo,  laden  with  meat,  maize, 
and  other  provisions.  This  supply,  in  the  bountiful  hands  of 
Padre  Salva  Tierra,  lasts  but  a  short  time ;  and  want  returns 
upon  them  with  all  its  horrors.  At  length  the  last  filthy  piece 
of  meat  is  consumed,  and  they  betake  themselves,  Indians  and 
Padres  and  garrison,  to  the  shores  for  fish,  and  to  the  moun- 
tains for  Pitahayas  and  other  fruits  and  roots.  Amidst  these 
sufi'erings  occurs  a  difficulty  with  the  Indians.  A  soldier  by 
the  name  of  Poblano  has  married  one  of  the  Indian  converts. 
In  the  month  of  June  her  mother  visits  her  and  invites  her 
home  to  the  joyful  ingathering  of  the  Pitahayas.  They  go 
away  in  the  night  unperceived,  and  run  to  the  mountains.  The 
next  morning  the  soldier  pursues  them  a  limited  distance,  but 
returns  unsuccessful.  A  day  or  two  afterwards,  he  goes  with 
a  Californian  Indian  near  a  village,  where  they  hear  a  great 
deal  of  shouting  and  merriment.  An  old  Indian,  whom  they 
meet,  advises  tl.em  to  return,  because  their  lives  will  be  en- 
dangered by  proceeding.  The  soldier  insults  the  old  man  and 
shoots  him.  The  noise  of  the  discharged  musket  rouses  the 
village,  and  the  soldier  dies,  pierced  with  arrows.    His  Indian 


174 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


companion  is  wounded,  but  brings  to  I^retto  information  of 
this  misfortune. 

,  The  Padres  of  San  Xavier  return  to  Loretto,  and  prepare  to 
march  in  pursuit  of  the  murderers.  The  Indians,  learning 
this  movement,  gather  all  their  forces  and  destroy  the  corn 
'  fields  of  San  Xavier,  and  a  few  goats,  on  whose  milk  the  Pa- 
dres are  subsisting,  during  this  calamitous  famine.  The  sol- 
diers arrive  in  time  to  prevent  the  destruction  of  the  buildings. 
At  length  the  parties  begin  to  skirmish,  and  four  of  the 
Indians  are  killed.  But  their  numbers  and  violence  increase 
daily.  The  troops  suffer  incredible  hardship  among  the  preci- 
pices, and  breaks  of  the  mountains.  Distress  and  consterna- 
tion are  beginning  to  seize  them.  Death  is  looked  for  as 
inevitable.  But  they  rejoice  again;  they  breathe  freely 
again ;  a  bark  comes  over  the  tranquil  and  heated  sea,  with 
provisions  and  a  recruit  of  soldiers ;  and  runners  are  sent  from 
Loretto  to  San  Xavier,  to  give  all  a  speedy  share  of  the  joy- 
ful news  ;  they  eat  and  drink  again  in  the  Californian  missions  ! 
The  Indians  are  intimidated  by  the  arrival  of  fresh  troops, 
and  submit ;  and  the  grateful  Padres  give  thanks  to  God  in  a 
solemn  Te  Deum  for  this  unexpected  deliverance. 

Great  anxiety  is  felt  in  California  for  the  fate  of  Padrs 
Piccolo.  No  tidings  of  him  have  been  received  since  he  left 
the  port  of  Loretto.  He  has,  however,  arrived  safely  at 
Cinaloa,  about  the  first  of  February,  1702,  and  sent  them 
supplies ;  has  hastened  thenoe  to  Guadalaxara  and  Mexico  j 
by  indefatigable  exertions  has  obtained  six  thousand  dollars 
from  the  Government  for  the  payment  of  soldiers;  and 
having  collected  charities  from  a  few  individuals,  has  pur- 
chased goods  for  the  relief  of  the  most  urgent  necessities  of 
the  missions ;  has  obtained  a  guarantee  of  Don  Josef  de  La 
Puente  Marquis  de  Villa  Puente,  for  the  support  of  three  new 
missions ;  and  from  Nicolas  de  Arteaga,  an  offer  to  support 
another ;  and  from  the  Government,  six  hundred  dollars  per 
annum  thereafter ;  has  secured  the  appointment  of  two  Padres, 
Juan  Manuel  de  Bassaldua  and  Geronimo  Minutili,  as  mis- 


> Aciric. 

Ijoretto  information  of 

Loretto,  and  prepare  to 
The  Indians,  learning 
and  destroy  the  corn 
on  whose  milk  the  Pa- 
tous  famine.     The  sol- 
uction  of  the  buildings, 
mish,  and  four  of   the 
and  violence  increase 
rdship  among  the  preci- 
Dlstress  and  consterna- 
Death  is  looked  for  as 
i;   they  breathe    freely 
il  and  heated  sea,  with 
nd  runners  are  sent  from 
ipeedy  share  of  the  joy- 
the  Californian  missions ! 
arrival  of  fresh  troops, 
(rive  thanks  to  God  in  a 
deliverance. 

a  for  the  fate  of  Padrs 
een  received  since  he  left 
wever,  arrived  safely  at 
y,  1702,  and  sent  them 
luadalaxara  and  Mexico ; 
ined  six  thousand  dollars 
yment  of   soldiers;    and 
few  individuals,  has  pur- 
nost  urgent  necessities  of 
ntee  of  Don  Josef  de  La 
r  the  support  of  three  new 
teaga,  an  offer  to  support 
t,  six  hundred  dollars  per 
ippointment  of  two  Padres, 
eronimo  Minutili,  as  mis- 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIFORNIA". 


175 


1 


nionaries  to  California ;  and  has  purchased  a  vessel  at  Aca- 
pulco,  called  Nuestra  Senora  del  Rosario ;  has  embarked  at 
Matanchel  with  his  goods,  provisions,  his  brethren,  and  some 
artisans,  for  Loretto.  Fine  breezes  bear  them  into  the  Gulf; 
then  a  tempest  swoops  down  upon  them  and  compels  them  to 
throw  overboard  that  part  of  the  cargo  which  is  stowed  on 
deck;  but  helping  gales  bear  them  to  their  destined  port, 
on  the  twenty-eighth  of  October,  1702. 

And  now  again  the  cross  is  raised  before  the  people ;  the 
lofty  anthem  of  thanksgiving  swells  up  the  parched  moun- 
tain, and  every  knee  bows  to  God  ami  Senora  de  Loretto. 
Most  of  the  garrison  had  been  discharged  for  want  of  money 
to  pay  their  wages ;  few  have  remained  to  protect  the  Pa- 
dres. Joyfully  now  do  they  all  gather  about  Padre  Piccolo, 
with  warm  elfusions  of  thanks  for  his  expedition,  and  engage 
anew  to  bear  arms,  and  beseech  the  mercies  of  God  for  the 
missions  of  California.  This  reinforcement  of  troops,  arti- 
sans, and  Padres,  and  the  supplies  of  provisions  and  money, 
and  the  guarantees  for  the  support  of  four  new  missions,  and 
the  promised  annuity  from  the  Government,  encourage  Padke 
Salva  TiERKA  to  form  higher  designs  for  the  enlargement  of 
his  operations.  To  effect  them  in  the  best  manner,  he  con- 
fers with  all  the  Padres  on  the  best  measures ;  and  the  con- 
clusion is,  that  Padre  Ugarte  shall  go  to  Senora  and  procure 
cattle  for  breeding,  and  horses  and  mules  for  draught  and  rid- 
ing ;  that  Padre  Minutili  shall  remain  at  Loretto  with  Padre 
Salva  Tierra;  and  that  Padre  Bassaldua  shall  accompany 
Padre  Piccolo  to  San  Xavier,  where  he  may  learn  the  Indian 
language,  and  otherwise  prepare  himself  for  future  labor.  In 
obedience  to  these  determinations.  Padre  Ugarte  sails  in  the 
begiiming  of  November;  but  after  being  absent  a  few  days, 
is  driven  back  by  contrary  winds.  In  December  he  sails 
again,  and  happily  arrives  at  Guaymas,  Pimeria,  in  February 
1703.  He  reappears  at  Loretto  with  a  fine  quantity  of  black 
cattle,  sheep,  horses,  mules,  and  provisions. 

In  March  of  this  year,  Padre  Salva  Tiekra  re-commenc«B 


17fl 


S  C  E  N  K  S       IN        r  II  K       P  A  ..  I  F  I  C  . 


expldiing  till'  country.  He  lakes  witli  liim  the  Captain  anJ 
some  soldiers,  anil  proceeds  to  San  Xavier,  where  he  is  joined 
by  Padres  Piccolo  and  Bassaldua.  Thence  they  travel  with 
great  difficulty  over  the  thirsty  mountains  to  the  Pacific,  and 
search  the  coast  far  northward  for  a  harbor,  fresh  water,  and 
tillable  land.  None  is  found  which  will  shelter  ships  from 
the  prevailing  winds.  Some  land,  with  a  good  soil,  is  dis- 
covered ;  but  the  absence  of  water  for  irrigation  renders  it 
useless.  By  going  south,  however,  they  fall  upon  the  little 
river  San  Xavier.  Here  they  find  a  few  Indians  who,  after  run- 
ning away,  are  persuaded  to  show  themselves  friends.  On 
their  return  these  Padres  pass  two  rancherias,  the  inhabitants 
of  which  they  induce  to  move  nearer  to  Loretto.  This  jour- 
ney proves  fruitless.  They  have  discovered  no  suitable  place 
for  the  establishment  of  a  new  mission.  In  May,  they 
make  another,  in  search  of  a  river  emptying  into  the  sea 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  north  of  Loretto.  Having  ar- 
rived near  Concepcion  Bay,  they  fall  in  with  a  large  ranche- 
ria  of  Indians,  who  seize  their  bows  and  arrows  and  come 
out  to  destroy  them.  The  Californian  Indians,  however,  who 
are  acting  as  guides  to  the  Padres,  explain  the  benevolent 
object  of  their  visit; and  all  are  received  as  friends,  and 
treated  with  the  kindest  hospitality.  These  Indians  inform 
the  Padres  of  a  large  tract  of  crags  and  abysses  lying  be- 
tween them  and  the  rive-  that  they  seek,  which  it  is  impos- 
sible to  pass,  and  they  return  to  Loretto. 

A  dismal  misfortune  now  falls  on  California.  Some  Indi- 
ans arrive  at  Loretto  full  of  fright  and  sorrow,  from  whom  the 
Padres  learn  that  the  wretch  who  formed  the  last  conspiracy, 
the  murderer  of  the  soldier  Poblano,  and  incendiary  of  the 
mission  of  San  Xavier,  has  fomented  discontent,  assembled 
the  rancherias,  and  massacred  all  the  adult  converts  at  San 
Xavier,  except  the  few  who  have  escaped  to  Loretio.  This 
sad  news  determines  the  Padres  and  the  Captain  to  punish 
those  factious  individuals,  in  such  a  manner  as  to  prevent  such 
outrages  in  future.     Accordingly  the  Captain  and  soldiers  fall 


A  ..  1  FI  C  . 

h  \\\m  the  Captain  an  J 
vier,  where  he  is  joined 
rhence  they  travel  with 
ains  to  the  Pacific,  and 
harbor,  fresh  water,  and 
will  shelter  ships  from 
i?ith  a  good  soil,  is  dis- 

for  irrigation  renders  it 
hey  fall  upon  the  little 
ff  Indians  who,  after  run- 
themselves  friends.  On 
ncherias,  the  inhabitants 
r  to  Loretto.  This  jour- 
covered  no  suitable  place 
Qission.  In  May,  they 
r  emptying  into  the  sea 

of  Loretto.  Having  ar- 
il in  with  a  large  ranche- 
rs and  arrows  and  come 
an  Indians,  however,  who 
Rs,  explain  the  benevolent 

received  as  friends,  and 
y.  These  Indians  inform 
igs  and  abysses  lying  be- 
;y  seek,  which  it  is  impos- 
jretto. 

n  California.  Some  Indi- 
ind  sorrow,  from  whom  the 
formed  the  last  conspiracy, 
no,  and  incendiary  of  the 
;nted  discontent,  assembled 

the  adult  converts  at  San 

escaped  to  Loretto.  This 
tnd  the  Captain  to  punish 
a  manner  as  to  prevent  such 

the  Captain  and  soldiers  fall 


TRAVEL  R      IN       THE      CALIFORN'AS 


m 


1 


on  the  conspirators  at  night,  kill  a  few,  among  whom  is  one 
of  the  most  active  in  the  massacre  ;  but  the  leader  escapes. 
The  Captain,  however,  declares  he  shall  die.     But  the  rough- 
ness of  the  country  prevents  pursuit.      Another  means  of 
arresting  him  is  adi  ^  ted.     The  Indians  are  told  that  they 
shall  never  have  peace  until  they  surrender  this  chief  of  vil- 
lains, and  in  a  few  days  he  is  brought  into  the  mission  of  San 
Xavier      A  court-martial  is  now  called,  and  the  culprit  ar- 
raigned, tried,  and  condemned  to  death  !     The  Padres  inter- 
fere to  save  him.     But  the  Captain  will  not  yield.     The  pri- 
soner confesses  that  he  intended  to  destroy  all  the  converts 
and  the  Padres  ;  that  he  has  burnt  the  chapel  and  the  images ; 
that  he  has  had  a  chief  hand  in  the  raiu-der  of  Poblano ;  that 
he  has  been  inducing  the  Indian  women  to  marry  the  soldiers, 
in  order  to  have  more  killed  in  the  same  manner ;  and  the 
Captain  will  not  release  him  from  the  punishment  which  he 
deserves  for  such  terrible  acts  and  intentions.     All  the  Padres, 
therefore,  gather  at  San  Xavier  to  attend  the  last  hours  of  the 
miserable  man.     They  teach  him  to  look  at  the  fearful  scenes 
which  will  break  on  him  when  the  spirit's  eyes  open  on  eter- 
nity ;  exhort  him  to  kiss  the  cross  of  redemption  and  lift  his 
love  to  him  who  bled  upon  it  for  sins  like  his.     He  is  taken 
to  the  plain  in  chains,  blinded,  made  to  kneel  down  and  is 
shot !    This  is  the  first  execution  for  a  capital  crime  in  Cali- 
fornia.    Its  influence  is  salutary.     The  Indians  become  peace- 
able, and  regular  in  their  duties. 

The  Padres  make  use  of  restored  peace  in  exploring  the 
country  to  find  sites  for  new  missions.  The  river  Mulege,  at 
the  north,  is  visited  by  Padres  Piccolo  and  Bassaldua  in  the 
bark  San  Xavier.  They  find  arable  land  on  its  banks,  a 
league  in  width,  which  appears  suitable  for  a  mission  station. 
They  therefore  proceed  to  Senora  to  obtain  riding  animals 
wherewith  to  explore  the  southern  shore  for  a  land  route  to 
LoiCtto.  Having  returned,  they  descend  the  coast  a  few 
leagues,  where  a  range  of  dry  volcanic  heights  arrests  their 
progress,  and  compels  them  to  abandon  their  design,  and  re- 


178 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


embark  for  Loretto  in  the  San  Xavier.  On  thi^ir  way,  thpy 
put  into  Concepcion  Bay  which  lies  south  of  the  opposing 
Mountains ;  send  the  bark  to  Guaymas  for  supplies ;  go  by 
land  along  a  path  partially  cleared  by  the  preceding  expedi- 
tion ;  arrive  at  a  valley  which  they  call  San  Juan  de  Londo, 
where  they  meet  Padkk  Salva  Tierra;  and  thence  pro- 
ceed in  great  haste  to  Loretlo.  Misfortune  calls  for  their 
sympathy. 

An  ordinance  has  been  issued  by  the  Viceroy  at  Mexico, 
prohibiting  any  one  from  engaging  in  fishing  for,  or  trading 
in,  pearls,  on  the  Californian  coast, without  a  license  from  the 
Government,  countersigned  by  tlie  military  commandant  at 
Loretto.  The  object  of  this  regulation  is  to  prevent  avari- 
cious individuals  from  drawing  the  Indians  away  from  the 
missions;  an  evil  which  the  Padres  have  long  endeavored  to 
extirpate.  But  notwithstanding  this  regulation,  two  vessels 
have  come  upon  the  coast  without  license,  and  are  fishing  off 
Loretto,  when  a  tempest  breaks  them  from  their  moorings  and 
strands  them  in  the  bay.  The  crew  of  one  of  them,  seventy 
in  number,  are  saved,  and  fourteen  of  the  other  succeed  in 
gaining  the  shore.  These  eighty  odd  men  the  Padres  clothe 
and  feed  a  whole  month, — the  time  required  to  get  their  ships 
off  and  repair  them, — when  the  one  with  seventy  souls  sails  for 
Mexico.  This  unexpected  draught  upon  the  small  stores  of 
the  missions  bears  so  heavily  upon  them,  that  the  arrival  ot 
Padre  Piccolo  from  Senora,  \vith  the  bark  partially  laden  with 
provisions,  barely  saves  them  from  starvation.  Near  the 
close  of  the  year  the  twelve  survivore  of  the  other  crew  are 
taken  to  the  continent  by  Padre  Minutili,  who  has  been 
appointed  to  the  missions  at  Tibutama.  But  their  presence 
for  so  long  a  time  at  the  garrison  has  greatly  increased  the 
sufferings  of  all  the  staticms.  It  is  now  1704,  the  seventh 
year  of  the  religious  conquest  of  California.  It  seems  to  be 
the  last  of  the  missions.  The  Padres  have  labored  inces- 
santly. Many  of  the  natives  have  been  baptized,  and  arc 
becoming  accustomed  to  labor.     The  lands  are  somewhat 


1'  A  (•  I  F  I  C  . 

;r.  On  their  w  ay,  they 
south  of  the  opposing 
mas  for  supplies  ;  go  by 
)y  the  preceding  expp'li- 
call  San  Juan  tie  Londo, 
ikrra;  and  thence  pro- 
lisfortune  calls  for  their 

the  Viceroy  at  Mexico, 

in  fishing  for,  or  trading 
without  a  license  from  the 

military  commandant  at 
tion  is  to  prevent  avari- 
le  Indians  away  from  the 

have  long  endeavored  to 
lis  regulation,  two  vessels 
license,  anil  are  fishing  off 
'.m  from  their  moorings  and 
\v  of  one  of  them,  seventy 
■n  of  the  other  succeed  in 
add  men  the  Padres  clothe 
J  required  to  get  their  ships 
;  with  seventy  souls  sails  for 
it  upon  the  small  stores  of 
n  them,  that  the  arrival  ot 
le  bark  partially  laden  with 
om  starvation.     Near  the 
ivoi-s  of  the  other  crew  are 
e  Minutili,  who  has  been 
itama.     But  their  presence 
a  has  greatly  increased  the 

is  now  1704,  the  seventh 
California.  It  seems  to  be 
'adres  have  labored  inces- 
ve  been  baptized,  and  are 

The  lands  are  somewhat 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIPORNIAS. 


179 


productive,  and  the  manufacture  of  cloth  is  considerably  ad- 
vanced. Their  attendance  on  the  ordinances  of  religion 
gratifies  the  Padres,  and  civilisation  seems  to  be  taking  root 
among  these  savages.  But  as  the  converts  increase,  the  num- 
ber of  persons  to  be  fed  and  clad  are  multiplied.  And  as  the 
necessities  of  these  grow,  the  hopes  of  a  proper  supply  be- 
come more  precarious.  The  vessel  in  which  grains  are  to  be 
brought  from  the  opposite  coast  requires  overhaulint;  before 
she  can  put  to  sea.  Without  her  the  money  for  the  pay- 
ment of  the  garrison  cannot  be  obtained  from  Mexico.  But 
as  the  Padres  have  no  means  of  repairing  her,  Padre  Bassal- 
dua,  for  life  or  death,  sails  in  her  towards  Mexico,  and  Padre 
I  Piccolo,  with  equal  self-devotion,  embarks  for  Senora  in  the 
leaky  and  shattered  bark  San  Xavier. 

The  mission  of  San  Josef,  on  the  continent,  has  been  an- 
nexed to  the  Californian  missions,  in  order  that  the  Padres 
may  use  its  resources  for  a  uniform  supply  of  provisions  and 
animals.  The  brave  Padre  Piccolo  is  passing  now  between 
this  station  and  Loretto,  with  all  possible  speed  and  activity. 
But  the  little  provisions  he  is  able  to  collect,  ill  suffice  the  wants 
in  California.  And  as  this  little  is  often  spoiled  in  the  leaky 
boat  before  its  arrival,  starvation  is  again  expecteil  at  Loretto. 
Meantime  Padre  Bassaldua  arrives  on  the  coast  of  Mexico  with 
hiscrea'.ing,  leaky  vessel;  proceeds  to  Guadalaxara  and  Mexi- 
co ;  urges  the  execution  of  the  Royal  Orders  for  the  support 
of  the  mission.  ;  is  unsuccessful ;  collects  enough  to  repair  his 
vessel ;  procures  a  small  supply  of  necessaries  from  benevo- 
lent individuals  ;  sails  in  company  with  Padre  Pedro  Ugarte, 
who  has  been  appointed  to  fill  the  place  of  Padre  Piccolo, 
and  in  the  latter  part  of  June  rounds  into  the  bay  of  Loretto, 
to  add  to  the  number  of  the  desponding  and  starving !  The 
Padres  send  the  vessel  and  the  bark  to  the  continent  for  pro- 
visions. But  the  shattered  condition  of  these  craft,  and  the 
northwest  gales,  twice  oblige  them  to  put  back  empty.  And 
when  at  last  they  succeed  in  making  the  voyage,  littlr  relief 
comes  of  it.     There  is  a  want  of  every  necessar»   of  litla 


180 


9CCNR8       IJf       THE       PACMFtC 


amonf;  the  Padres  and  soldiers.  The  latter  co.nplain  that 
their  certificates  of  services  sent  to  Mexico  have  not  been 
honored  ;  and  the  former  see  that  some  decided  step  must  be 
taken  either  for  the  salvation  or  abandonment  of  the  missions. 
Padre  Salva  Tierra  calls  together  the  Padres  and  the  Cap- 
tain, and  another  officer  of  the  garrison,  to  deliberate,  and 
informs  them  that  they  can  expect  no  speedy  relief  from 
their  friends  at  Mexico ;  thtit  he  cannot  more  clearly  depict 
the  melancholy  condition  of  their  afTairs  than  their  common 
sufferings  do ;  that  he  is  summoned  to  Mexico  to  confer 
concerning  the  execution  of  the  Royal  Orders  for  the  relief  of 
the  missions ;  but  that  he  will  not  leave  California  until  the  mis- 
sions are  either  relieved  or  destroyed.  He  desires,  however, 
that  others  will  fully  deliberate,  and  freely  determine  whether 
they  shall  all  remain  there,  and  suffer  for  the  glory  of  God,  or 
go  to  Mexico,  and  await  a  more  favorable  juncture  for  renew- 
ing the  conquest.  He  himself  is  ready  to  eat  the  wild  fruits, 
and  in  other  respects  fare  as  the  converts  do,  rather  tiian 
abandon  them.  Padre  Ugarte  opposes  leaving  the  country. 
Padres  Piccolo,  Pedro  Ugarte  and  Bassaldua  agree  with  him : 
and  the  Captain  declares  that  he  is  astonished  to  hear  a  pro- 
position of  the  kind  ;  that  he  will  solemnly  protest  against 
the  Padres,  if  they  should  abandon  the  conquest.  Neverthe- 
less, notice  is  given  to  the  people,  that  whoever  will,  may 
embark  in  the  vessel  going  to  Mexico,  and  that  bills  shall  be 
given  them  for  the  arrears 'of  their  wages.  But  instead  of 
embracing  the  offer,  they  all  refuse  to  leave  the  Padres.  The 
fear  of  an  insurrection  among  the  soldiers  on  account  of  the 
non-payment  of  wages  and  want  of  food  being  removed, 
the  Padres  dispatch  the  vessel  and  the  bark  to  Guaymas  for 
supplies.  While  they  are  waiting  for  these.  Padre  Ugarte 
sets  an  example  of  patience  and  fortitude.  He  goes  into  the 
mountains  and  woodlands,  gathers  the  wild  fruits  and  digs 
edible  roots,  reminds  his  spiritual  children  of  the  death  in 
Canaan,  and  God's  goodness  to  J.icob — while  the  soldiers 
and  officers  vie  with  the  good  man  in  all  his  works  of  love. 


PACIFIC 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIF0UNIA8, 


181 


'he  latter  co-nplain  that 
1  Mexico  have  not  been 
line  decided  step  must  be 
ndoninent  of  the  missions, 
the  Padres  and  the  Cap- 
rrison,  to  deliberate,  and 
t  no  speedy  relief   from 
innot  more  clearly  depict 
(fairs  than  their  common 
led  to  Mexico  to  confer 
al  Orders  for  the  relief  of 
ve  California  until  the  mis- 
;d.     He  desires,  however, 
1  freely  determine  whether 
er  for  the  glory  of  God,  or 
orable  juncture  for  renew- 
!ady  to  eat  the  wild  fruits, 

converts  do,  rather  than 
poses  leaving  the  country. 
Bassaldua  agree  with  him : 
s  astonished  to  hear  a  pro- 
1  solemnly  protest  against 
1  the  conquest.  Neverthe- 
e,  that  whoever  will,  may 
Kico,  and  that  bills  shall  be 
jir  wages.  But  instead  of 
e  to  leave  the  Padres.     The 

soldiers  on  account  of  the 
,t  of  food  being  removed, 
d  the  bark  to  Guaymas  for 
g  for  these.  Padre  Ugarte 
brtitude.  He  goes  into  the 
rs  the  wild  fruits  and  digs 
,1  children  of  the  death  in 

Jacob— while  the  soldiers 
n  in  all  his  works  of  love. 


The  Padres  do  not  abandon  their  determination  to  found 
the  other  mission.",  ff)r  which  funds  have  been  proinised. 
With  this  design  in  view,  and  also  to  bring  new  matters  of 
interest  to  the  minds  of  the  distressed  peop'e  Padres  Salva 
TiERKA  and  Pedro  Ugarte  visit  the  district  of  i^igui,  lying  on 
the  coast  south  of  Loretto.  A  single  soldier  and  two  Indians 
accompany  them.  As  they  approach  the  village,  many  In- 
dians rush  from  an  ambush  and  begin  to  fire  their  arrows  at 
them  with  great  fury.  The  soldier,  Krancisco  Xavier  Va- 
lenzuela,  draws  his  scimitar  and  brandishes  it  briskly  in  the 
sun  with  one  hand,  while  with  the  other  he  fires  his  mus- 
ketoon  in  the  air.  These  movements  so  frighten  the  savages 
that  they  throw  their  weapons  and  themselves  on  the  ground, 
and  allow  the  whites  to  approach  them.  The  two  Indians 
interpret  for  Paukk  Salva  Tikrra.  He  assures  them  that  he 
comes  only  to  do  them  good;  that  he  has  brought  Padre 
Ugarte  to  live  with  them  as  a  father,  who  will  lead  them  to  a 
happy  futurity.  On  hearing  this,  they  affectionately  embrace 
Padre  Salva  Tierka,  and  bid  their  wives  and  children  to 
come  from  their  hiding-places.  The  Indians  are  sad  that  the 
Padres  do  not  remain  longer  with  them,  and  can  only  be 
comforted  by  a  strong  promise  that  Padre  Ugarte  will  soon 
return.  They  baptize  foity-eight  of  the  children,  and  depart 
for  Loretto. 

In  the  month  of  August,  of  this  year,  the  vessel  and  bark 
return  from  Guaymas  with  provisions.  Close  upon  this  happy 
event,  follows  another,  which  causes  much  grief  to  the  Padres 
and  the  Indians.  Padre  Salva  Tierra  is  appointed  visitor  to 
tb''  missions  of  Cinaloa  and  Senora.  The  prospect  of  losing 
the  society  and  fatherly  love  of  this  great  and  good  man, 
causes  deep  sorrow  among  all  ranks.  He  is  also  called  to 
Mexico  by  order  of  the  Viceroy,  to  attend  an  assembly  to 
be  soon  convened  by  command  of  his  Sovereign,  in  which  the 
propriety  and  possibility  of  executitig  certain  royal  orders 
com  erning  the  conquest  and  settlement  of  California  are  to 
be  discussed.     Before  he  departs,  he  consecrates  the  new 


1B2  SCENES      IN       THE      PACIFIC. 

Church  at  Lorctto,  and  appoints  to  the  command  "^  ^he  ga'ri. 
son,  Juan  Baptiste  Escalante,  a  <listin,uished  warrior,  aga  nst 
The  Apaches  on  the  Gila,  and  Nicolas  Marques,  as  L.u^nan^ 
to  rill  respectively  the  places  of  the  worthy  Capta  n  ^  evan 
Lorenzo  and  Ensign  Isidro,  who,  to  the  7^°-;4^;^2 
dres,  have  resigned  their  ports  on  account  of  some  bitter  feel 
ings  towards  them  among  the  soldiers  .  ,n  „„.ties 

These  matters  being  settled  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  part  es 
he  appoints  Pad.  Juan  Ugarte  to  the  supreme  government  o 
the  garrison  and  missions,  and  on  the  first  o    October  sails  or 
hLntinent.   HegoestoGuadalaxara  confers  with  th^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

encia  of  that  department,  passes  on  to  Mexico  and  finds  him- 
self appointed  Provincial  of  New  Spam,  f  .^^^^^^et 
California.     The  good  Padre,  overwhelmed  -'  ^  ^'J  ""^^ 
pected  distinction,  urges,  with  sincerity  ->   -^''^;""'*^;^. 
for  the  office,  and  his  desire  to  labor  and  die  a  simple  mi 
ZZ  among  his  Caliibrnian  Indians.     But  the  Padres  as.ur 
h-  n  t^L   the  niles  of  his  order  will  not  permit  hun  to  decline ; 
a         r^i'dehim.tbat  un.ler  so  good  a.man  asProvinua. 
T    V.      h  will  cbeerlullv   further  his  pious  desires  for  the 
the  church  -  11  ^'-2  of  California.     The  Padke  Juan 

IZZ  of  his  converts  in  that  forlorn  wilderness,  enters 
Ton  the  duties  of  Provinical  Bishop  of  New  Spain. 
'pm  SaI  Tikkha  in  his  official  character  communicates 
Jh  hi' Vi-roy,  and  lays  before  him  his  views  of  the^proper 
Tasur  sof  is'bovernmentforthe  furtherance  of  the  mis- 
measures  oi  territories  undtr  his  charge.     He 

ir:^'^  «i^ -or  .he  Sp,-  power  i„  *». 
t  X  b,  moans  of  ,he  JesulU,  a.*  Aat  x.  order  to  hoM 
;l  L^uesL,  .he  power  by  which  .hey  h«e  »ee„  oMa-d 
„„,.  s,ill  he  exercised.  The  honor  and  herfonh'^^^^^^^^^^ 
and  of  the  Calhohc  Church  demand  .his  of  his  E"""™"* 
r  ,„.      He  is  favorably  heard,  and  all  classes  of  pec- 

rrTnT  is"!     But  the  delay  and  selfishness  whi^ 
Jl' a  ever  characterized  the  Spanish  power  m  America  and 


A  CI  Ft C. 

!  command  of  the  garri- 
rruished  warrior,  against 

Marques,  as  Lieutenant, 
wrorthy  Captain  Estevan 

the  sorrow  of  the  Pa- 
ount  of  some  bitter  feel- 

3 

satisfaction  of  all  parties, 
e  supreme  government  of 
I  first  of  October  sails  for 
tra,  confers  with  the  Amli- 
to  Mexico,  and  finds  bim- 
5pain,  and  missionary  of 
vhelmed  with  this  unex- 
rity  and  zeal,  his  unfitness 
r  and  die  a  simple  mis- 
is.     But  the  Padres  as5;ure 
lot  permit  him  to  decline ; 
ood  a  man  as  Provinual, 

his  pious  desires  for  the 
fornia.  The  Padke  Juan 
,  in  hope  of  bettering  the 

forlorn  wihlorncss,  enters 
:)p  of  New  Spain, 
ial  character  communicates 
lim  his  views  of  the  proper 
le  furtherance  of  the  rais- 
es undtr  his  charge.     He 
the  Spanish  power  in  those 
its,  ait,A  thut  Ji  order  to  hold 
ich  they  have  been  obtained 
or  and  benefit  of  the  Crown 
,nd  this  of  his  Excellency's 
>ard,  and  all  classes  of  peo- 
delay  and  selfishness  which 
nish  power  in  America  anJ 


TRAVI:L8      in       THb      CALIKORN.AA 


18S 


elsewhere  press  on  the  track  of  the  good  Padre,  and  he  '» 
forced  to  leave  Mexico  on  a  visit  to  the  churches  of  his  Dio- 
cese, without  any  dtcided  assurances  that  his  views  will  be 
acted  on.  The  {KJverty  of  the  Crown,  while  half  the  world  is 
digging  gold  and  silver  for  its  colfers,  is  an  additional  cause  of 
this  inaction. 

We  next  find  Padre  Sai.va  Tierha,  in  1705,  appealing  to 
tl»e  Jesuit  College  and  the  Audiencia  of  Guadalaxara,  to  suc- 
cor the  missions.  Soon  after  this  lie  lands  at  El  Mission  del 
Nucstra  Senora  de  Loretto,  amid  the  general  joy  of  the  Pa- 
dres, soldiers  and  Indians.  To  the  latter,  particularly,  he  ha.' 
been  a  father ;  and  they  dance  and  shout  around  him  in  an 
ecstacy  of  gladness  to  see  again  his  grey  head  and  benevo- 
lent face. 

The  Padre  finds  his  brethren  in  great  wretchedness,  but  full 
of  unwavering  determination  to  carry  forward  the  work  which 
he  has  so  valorously  begun.  Padre  Piccolo,  who  has  been  ap- 
pointed visitor  of  the  missions  of  Senora,  in  order  that  he  may 
hfive  authority  and  opportunity  to  draw  provisions  more  regu- 
larly for  those  of  California,  has  been  forwarding  at  intervals 
whatever  he  could  gather  from  those  poor  establishments. 
But  this  has  been  sufficient  only  to  prevent  starvation  or  the 
abandonment  of  the  country.  However,  the  missions  still 
exist,  and  the  venerable  Padre  Salva  Tierra  is  happy.  Their 
discomforts  have  been  much  increased  during  his  absence  by 
the  growing  tyranny  of  Capt.  Escalante,  who  has  become  im- 
patient of  his  subjection  to  the  Padres,  and  abusive  to  the  In- 
dians and  soldiers.  An  account  of  this  state  of  things  having 
been  forwarded  during  the  Padre's  tarry  there,  he  has  brought 
with  him  Don  Estevan  Rodriguez  Lorenzo  to  supersede  Esca- 
lante— an  arrangement  which  results  in  much  satisfaction  to 
tlie  missions. 

The  Provincial  remains  two  months  in  California ;  but  he 
does  not  excuse  himself  from  his  usual  arduous  labors.  His 
new  dignity  furnishes  no  pretext  for  idleness.  He  bends  all 
his  energies  to  the  well-being  of  the  natives ;  takes  measuree 


1S4 


S  C  r.  N  K  ^       IN       T  II  K       PACIFIC 


for  the  establishment  of  two  new  mis-sionN ;  the  one  at  Li^ui 
and  the  other  at  the  river  Mulege.  The  small  number  of  his 
associates,  however,  is  an  olwtacle  to  the  accomplishment  of 
his  wishes.  There  are  hut  three  Padres  with  him.  One  of 
these  is  required  at  Snn  Xavier,  and  one  at  Londo.  This  dis- 
tribution will  leave  but  one  to  take  care  of  the  magazines, 
disburse  the  stores,  nurse  the  sick,  and  perform  the  spiritual 
functions  at  Loretto — a  task  which  no  single  man  can  per- 
form. Accordingly,  Jayme  Bravo,  the  lay  companion  of  Pa- 
i)RK  Salva  Tikkua,  is  induced  to  take  upon  himself  the  tem- 
poral affairs  of  the  garrison  and  mission,  and  thus  leave  the 
Padres  free  to  pursue  their  religious  labors.  This  arrange- 
ment being  made,  the  Provincial  departs  for  Mexico  about  the 
last  of  November,  1704,  and  ihe  Padres  Pedro  Ugarte  and 
Juan  Manuel  de  Bassaldua  commence  the  exploration  of  the 
new  stations.  The  former  goes  twelve  leagues  south,  to  Li- 
gui,  and  the  latter  forty  leagues  north,  to  the  river  Mulege ; 
while  Padre  Juan  Ugarte  takes  care  of  the  missions  at  Loretto 
San  Xavier  and  Londo. 

The  Ligui  Indians  are  found  to  be  peaceable,  but  so  ex- 
tremely indolent  that  the  Padre  can  get  no  help  from  them  in 
the  construction  of  the  mission  buildings.  His  ingenuity  and 
patience,  however,  are  equal  to  his  necessities.  He  feeds  the 
boys  of  the  tribe  with  sweetmeats,  makes  them  small  presents, 
and  by  his  paternal  address,  hoon  attaches  them  so  strongly 
to  his  person,  that  they  follorw  him  wherever  he  goes.  He 
resorts  to  many  artifices  to  habituate  them  to  labor ;  lays 
wagers  with  them  on  their  comparative  dexterity  in  pulling 
up  Inishes,  removing  the  earth  from  the  sites  of  the  buildings, 
and  challenges  them  to  dance  with  him  on  the  clay  of  which 
the  bricks  are  to  be  made.  The  boys  sing  and  poach  the  mud 
with  their  feet,  and  so  does  the  Padre.  And  in  this  way  he  clears 
his  ground  and  erects  the  buildings  of  his  mission.  He  also 
teaches  these  boys  the  Spanish  language,  and  they  teach  their 
own  to  him.  He  explains  to  them  the  catechism  and  prayers, 
and  they  do  the  same  to  their  parents.     Thus,  with  untiring 


r  I  ri  c 

)ns;  the  one  at  Ligui 
le  small  number  of  his 
the  accomplishment  of 
es  with  him.  One  of 
le  at  Londo.  This  dis- 
are  of  the  magazines, 
id  perform  the  spiritual 

0  single  man  can  per- 
le  lay  companion  of  Pa- 

upon  himself  the  tem- 
ision,  and  thus  leave  the 

labors.  This  arrange- 
jrts  for  Mexico  about  the 
jdres  Pedro  Ugarte  and 
!  the  exploration  of  the 
Ive  leagues  south,  to  Li- 
i,to  the  river  Miriege; 
of  the  missions  at  Loretto 

be  peaceable,  but  so  ex- 
get  no  help  from  them  in 
ings.  His  ingenuity  and 
necessities.  He  feeds  the 
lakes  them  small  presents, 
attaches  them  so  strongly 

wherever  he  goes.  He 
late  them  to  labor ;  lays 
•ative  dexterity  in  pulling 

the  sites  of  the  buildings, 
him  on  the  clay  of  which 
)ys  sing  and  poach  the  mud 
.  And  in  this  way  he  clears 

of  his  mission.  He  also 
guage,  and  they  teech  their 

1  the  catechism  and  prayers, 
ents.     Thus,  with  untiring 


A  California  Lulian. 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CAI.  IFORNtAS. 


185 


Indian. 


patience,  firmness  and  labor,  docs  he  bring  the  mission  ol  San 
Juan  Baptista  into  form,  and  its  Indians  under  his  control 
And  not  these  only  ;  but  going  many  miles  into  the  woods 
and  the  breaches  of  the  mountains,  he  gathers  in  the  wan- 
dering, feeds  and  clothes  them,  and  teaches  them  to  till  the 
ground  and  live  like  men.  At  last  he  succeeds  in  humaniz- 
ing the  greate-  portion  of  these  rude  people.  They  call  him 
Padre,  follow  him  to  the  labor  of  the  field,  and  gather  about 
the  altar  in  his  humble  church  to  worship.  All  are  industri- 
ous, well-fed,  well-clad,  and  happy. 

As  the  Padre,  however,  is  felicitating  himself  on  these 
results  of  his  labors,  an  accident  occurs  which  well  nigh  ruins 
all.     He  is  called  to  baptize  a  sick  woman,  with  whom  he 
finds  an  old  sorcerer  employed  according  to  their  ancient  cus- 
toms.    The  Padre  bids  hira  depart,  administers  extreme  unc- 
tion to  the  woman,  remains  with  her  till  death,  buries  her 
according  to  the  forms  of  the  church,  and  afttr  reprimanding 
severely  the  converts  who  have  lent  their  sanction  to  the  jug- 
gler, dismisses  them  with  much  indignation.     This  severity  of 
the  Padre  rouses  the  sullen  fierceness  of  the  Indians  to  such 
extent  that,  instigated  by  the  disgraced  sorcerer,  they  form 
the  design  of  murdering  him.     They  use  the  utmost  secrecy, 
and  make  death  the  penalty  of  divulging  their  purpose.     The 
Padre  always  has  a  boy  sleeping  in  his  apartment ;  and  when 
at  length  the  night  of  the  massacre  comes,  this  boy  desires 
that  he  may  be  allowed  to  spend  it  with  his  friends,  the  Indi- 
ans.    The  Padre  objects  !     The  boy  urges !     The  Padre  in- 
quires the  reason ;  and  the  boy,  after  much  hesitation,  tells 
him,  "  Because,  father,  this  night  they  are  going  to  kill  you  !'* 
On  hearing  this,  he  sends  for  some  of  the  chief  ones,  and 
with  a  resolute  and  dauntless  air  tells  them,  "  I  know  you 
have  formed  the  design  to  kill  me  this  night.     But  remember ! 
With  this  musket  I  will,  when  you  come,  slaughter  you  all." 
Having  said  this,  bo  quickly  leaves  them   full  of  consterna- 
tion at  wha*  they  have  heard. 

Oppiessed  with  fear,  they  retire  to  their  associates  in  the 


188 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


design;  consult  much,  aad  at  last  conclu'.le  to  seek  safety 
from  the  Padre's  nuiskct  in  flifiht.  In  the  morning  the.r 
lod.res  are  deserted  ;  not  an  Ind>an  is  in  sight  of  the  Mission 
San  Juan  Baptista  Ligui.  On  the  following  day  the  Padre 
goes  out  to  seek  his  lost  flc.;k.  They  are  found  h.dden 
away  among  the  cliffs,  and  flee  at  his  approach.  After  con- 
siderable parleying,  however,  they  are  convinced  that  the 
Padre  seeks  their  good  alone,  and  return  to  the  mission  tho- 
roughly  persuaded  that  he  loves  them,  but  can  never  be  made 

to  fear  them. 

This  excellent  man  continues  at  his  mission,  enduring  every 
privation,  till  1709,  when  the  severe  fatigues  of  years  weigh 
him  down  and  compel  him  to  seek  health  in  Mexico.    Thither 
he  croes  in  the  character  of  negotiator  and  procurator  of  the 
missions.     No  sooner,  however,  does  he  recover  his  health  in 
a  tolerable  degree,  than  he  returns  and  resumes  his  labora. 
But  illness   again  compels  him  to  leave  this   inhospitable 
shore  for  the  mission  at  the  River  Yaqui,  on  the  opposite 
coast,  where  he  makes  himself  useful  as  an  agent  and  pur- 
veyor-general for  California. 

But  let  us  follow  the  Padre  Juan  Manuel  Bassaldua  to  the 
River  Mulege.     He  starts  in  1705,  and  with  gre.it  dif^culty 
surmounts  the  crags  as  far  north  as  Concepc.on  Bay.     Here 
his  progress  is  arrested   by   hills  to   all    appearances  in- 
surmountable.     But  "trial  before  despair"  is  the  Padres 
motto     He  fills  ravines  with  rocks,  and  cuts  away  the  woods; 
and  after  incredible  labor,  passes  his  animals  over  to  Mulege. 
There  is  a  valley  near  the  mouth  of  this  little  stream  ten 
leacrues  in  length,  suitable  for  tillage.     In  this,  two  miles  from 
the^Gulf,  he  locates  his  mission,  and  consecrates  it  to  Santa 
Rosalia;  builds  his  dwelling  and  church  of  adobies  ;  remains 
four  years;  collects  the  Indians  from  all  the  neighboring  set- 
tlements; instructs  them  in  religion  and  the  useful  arts;  and 
soendearshiinselfto  them,  that  when  his  health  fails,  and  he 
ifi  transferred  1 1  Guaymas,  the  poor  savages  find  it  difficult  to 


\  C  I  F  I  C  . 

onclu'.le  to  seek  safety 
In  the  morning  their 
in  sight  of  the  Mission 
allowing  day  the  Padre 
riiey  are  found  hidden 
;  approach.  After  con- 
are  convinced  that  the 
turn  to  the  mission  th-o- 
,  but  can  never  be  made 

i  mission,  enduring  every 
fatigues  of  years  weigh 
alth  in  Mexico.    Thither 
or  and  procurator  of  the 
he  recover  his  health  in 
and  resumes  his  labors, 
leave  this   inhospitable 
•  Yaqui,  on  the  opposite 
ful  as  an  agent  and  pur- 
Manuel  Bassaldua  to  the 
and  with  great  difR<mlty 
Copcepcion  Bay.     Here 
to   all    appearances  in- 
despair"  is  the  Padre's 
and  cuts  away  the  woods; 
IS  animals  over  to  Mulege. 
Ih  of  this  little  stream  ten 
e.     In  this,  two  miles  from 
id  consecrates  it  to  Santa 
lurch  of  adobies;  remains 
m  all  the  neighboring  set- 
n  and  the  useful  arts ;  and 
tien  his  health  fails,  and  he 
r  savages  find  it  difficult  to 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIFORNIAS. 


187 


discover  in  his  successor,  the  excellent  Padre  Piccolo,  his 
equal  in  kindness  and  active  benevolence. 

Padre  Piccolo  exerts  in  this  new  field  all  his  well-tried  en- 
ergies. Besides  his  labors  as  a  spiritual  teacher,  he  travels 
into  the  interior  several  times  in  search  of  proper  sites  for 
new  settlements,  and  discovers  those  places  which  are  after- 
wards occupied  by  the  missions  of  Guadaloupe,  La  Purissima 
Concepcion,  and  San  Ignacio.  In  tlie  year  1718  he  surren- 
ders his  charge  to  Padre  Sebastian  de  Sistiaga.  This  Padre 
digs  trenches  to  convey  the  waters  of  the  river  over  the 
fields,  and  in  other  ways  improves  the  facilities  for  training 
those  active  and  intelligent  children  of  the  desert  to  the  habits 
of  a  better  life. 

On  the  sixth  of  November,  1706,  Padre  Piccolo,  three  sol- 
diers, and  some  Mulege  Indians,  with  two  asses  bearing  their 
provisions,  journey  westv/ard  towards  the  country  of  the  North 
Cochimes,  which  is  called  Cada  Kaaman,  or  Sedge  Brook. 
It  lies  on  the  skirts  of  the  mountains,  thirty-five  leagues,  by 
the  vales,  from  Santa  Rosalia.  On  the  third  day  he  is  met 
by  a  whole  settlement  of  Indians,  in  a  valley  which,  on  a 
former  visit,  he  has  named  Santa  Aguida.  These  poor  peo- 
ple express  great  joy  at  seeing  the  Padre  again,  and  follow 
him  to  the  neighboring  rancherias,  called  Santa  Lucia  and 
Santa  Nympha.  In  these  places  also  he  is  greeted  most 
kindly,  and  desired  to  remain.  On  the  nineteenth  of  Novem- 
ber he  arrives  at  the  head  springs  of  the  brook  which  waters 
the  vale.  Here  he  finds  three  considerable  neighborhoods  of 
savages,  who  welcome  his  coming  with  feastings,  dances,  and 
songs,  in  which  ti.ose  from  Santa  Lucia  and  Santa  Nympha 
join  with  exceeding  delight.  He  remains  at  this  place  until 
December,  comforting  and  teaching  them.  A  large  arbor  is 
built  by  the  willing  Indians,  in  which  mass  is  celebrated.  The 
neighboring  villagers  forsake  their  homes  to  attend  upon  the 
Padre's  instructions.  Fifty  mothers  eagerly  offer  their  child- 
ren in  baptism.  And  now  he  departs,  followed  by  a  large 
crowd  of  people,  who  mourn  that  he  leaves  them ;  and  pre- 


]S8 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


ceded  by  others  who  shout  their  gladness  among  the  parched 
hills,  that  he  journeys  towards  their  villages.  They  clear  the 
path  before  him  of  stones  and  other  obstacles ;  present  him 
with  strings  of  wild  fruit  to  eat;  and  bring  him  water  from 
the  stream  to  drink. 

While  these  new  missions  are  in  progress,  the  old  ones,  at 
Loretto,  SanXavier,  and  Londo,  are  slowly  advancing  in  com- 
fort and  usefulness.  Nor  are  the  Padres  in  charge  of  them 
idle  in  making  explorations  for  other  establishments. 

In  1706  Jayrae  Bravo,  in  company  with  the  Captain,  seven 
soldiers,  and  some  Indians,  goes  to  San  Juan  Baptista  Llgui, 
ank  having  felicitated  Padre  Pedro  Ugarte  upon  the  happy 
beginning  of  his  mission,  passes  along  the  shore  towards  the 
south.     He  has  travelled  a  day  and  a  half,  when  an  Indian 
brings  word  that  four  of  his  soldiers  are  dying !     Jayme  Bravo 
and  the  Captain  return,  and  find  that  one  of  them  has  found 
a  fire  where  some  Indian  fishermen  have  been  roasting  a  spe- 
cies of  fish  called  Botates,  the  liver  of  which  contains  a  very 
active  poison.     This  soldier  communicates  the  news  of  food 
at  hand  to  his  fellows,  and  they  hasten  to  devour  it.      A 
friendly  Indian  warns  them  not  to  eat.     But  the  soldier     ho 
first  discovered  the  fire  replying,  "  None  of  your  noise,  Indian  ; 
a  Spaniard  never  dies,"  eats  plentifully  and  gives  to  his  com- 
panions.    One  of  them  chews  and  swallows  a  little ;  another 
chews,  but  does  not  swallow  ;  the  other  merely  handles  and 
views  the  fish.     Well  would  it  have  been  if  they  had  regarded 
the  caution  of  the  Indian:    for  in  a  very  short  time  they  are 
all  seized  with  convulsive  pains  more  or  less  violent,  accord- 
ing to  the  use  they  have  made  of  the  fish.     The  first  expires 
in  half  an  hour.     He  is  soon  followed  by  the  second !     The 
third,  who  merely  chewed  the  fish,  remains  insensible  till  the 
following  morning!     The  man  who  only  handled  them  la 
in  a  very  bad  condition  for  several  days.     This  misfortune 
obliges  the  explorers  to  abandon  their  enterprise.     They  re- 
turn to  Ligui  to  bury  the  dead  in  the  consecrated  grounds  of 
the  mission,  and  send  their  sick  to  Loretto. 


A  CIFI 0. 


ess  among  the  parched 

I  ages.     They  clear  the 

>bstacles;  present  him 

bring  him  water  from 

)gress,  the  old  ones,  at 
iwly  advancing  in  com- 
Ires  in  charge  of  them 
;stablishments. 
with  the  Captain,  seven 
m  Juan  Baptista  Llgui, 
Igarte  upon  the  happy 
T  the  shore  towards  the 
a  half,  when  an  Indian 
e  dying !     Jayme  Bravo 
one  of  them  has  found 
ive  been  roasting  a  spe- 
f  which  contains  a  very 
icates  the  news  of  food 
isten  to  devour  it.      A 
it.     But  the  soldier   "ho 
ne  of  your  noise,  Indian  ; 
ly  and  gives  to  his  com- 
i^allows  a  httle ;  another 
ther  merely  handles  and 
)een  if  they  had  regarded 
very  short  time  they  are 
B  or  less  violent,  accord- 
3  fish.     The  first  expires 
ed  by  the  second !     The 
■eraains  insensible  till  the 
10  only  handled  them  is 
days.     This  misfortune 
leir  enterprise.     They  re- 
le  consecrated  grounds  of 
lOretto. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

?*lre  Juan  Ugarte  and  Jayme  Bravo  explore  ihe  Pacific  Coast— Dearth 

—Thirst— Padub  Salva  Tibiiba— A  Tempest— Landing  at  Loretto— 
San  Josef— Wrecki'ii—PADiiE  Salva  Tiebra  goes  to  the  Rescue— En- 
ergy—SufTering— Die  by  Tliousimds— Wrecked— At  Sea  in  a  Long- 
boat—The Limit  of  Despair— They  toil  on— The  Guaycuros— Massa- 
cre—San  Ignacio— Padre  Salva  Tierra  leaves  California— Death  of  a 
Hero  at  Guadalaxara. 

Meantimk  Padre  Juan  Ugarte  prepares  to  reconnoitre  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific.  The  chief  of  the  Yaqui  nation  waits  on 
him  with  forty  of  his  warriors.  The  Ca^itain,  with  twelve  sol- 
diers and  some  converts,  is  at  his  command  for  the  same  duty ; 
the  beasts  and  provisions  for  the  journey  are  ready ;  and  Padre 
Juan  Ugarte  and  the  layman  Bravo,  on  the  twenty-sixth  of 
November,  1706,  leave  Loretto,  with  their  troops  and  pack 
animals  divided  into  three  companies,  on  their  wearisome  way 
over  the  western  mountains.  Their  march  lies  through  the 
Mission  of  San  Xavier  and  the  Indian  village  called  Santa 
Rosalia,  and  from  that  point  passes  over  the  dry  and  herb- 
less  waste  of  heights  and  vales  to  the  sea.  Here  they  meet 
several  hundred  Guaycuros,  who  are  friendly  to  them.  Thence 
they  march  southward  many  leagues,  and  find  no  water  in  all 
the  distance  except  in  little  wells  dug  by  the  Indians.  They 
then  turn  their  course  to  the  north.  They  march  all  day  over 
burning  sands,  famishing  with  thirst,  and  halt  at  night  near  the 
channel  of  a  dry  rivulet.  Thence  they  send  men  a  few  leagues 
farther  up  the  shore,  and  others  up  and  down  the  thirsty 
channel,  in  quest  of  water.  They  all  return  to  camp  with- 
out success.  Next  they  disperse  themselves  in  every  direc- 
tion to  find  a  plat  of  low  ground  where  they  may  dig  wells, 
but  find  none.     As  a  last  resource,  they  now  let  loose  their 


i 


■M,i 


190 


SCENES      IN       THE       PACIFIC 


animals,  that  they  may,  by  their  powerful  instincts,  find  means 
of  quenching  their  thirst ;  but  all  these  contrivances  are  vain. 
They  kindle  a  fire  to  keep  themselves  warm,  and,  weary  and 
fainishinir,  stretch  themselves  on  the  sand  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning  Padre  Ugarte  greets  the  rising  sun  with  th« 
services  of  Mass  ;  and  while  they  sing  the  "  Litany  de  Seno- 
ra  de  Loretto,"  an  Indian  calls  out  in  the  language  of  his 
people  that  he  has  found  water  !  With  solemn  gratitude  they 
dig  into  the  oozing  soil;  they  obtain  a  supply  for  themselves 
and  their  animals  ;  and  having  filled  several  vessels  to  serve 
them  on  their  return,  offer  a  service  of  thanksgiving  to  the 
Virgin,  and  commence  their    journey    to  Loretto. 

Wliile  the  Padres  are  thus  employed  in  establishing  mis- 
sions and  exploring  Calitbrnia,  Padrk  Salva  Tikkra  is  ear- 
nestly petitioning  the  Pope  to  discharge  him  from  the  office  of 
Provincial  Bishop  of  New  Spain.  He  desires  to  spend  his 
declining  years  among  the  Indians  of  California.  In  1706 
his  discharge  comes;  and  with  inexpressible  pleasure  does 
the  good  old  man  collect  supplies  of  clothing,  provisions 
and  ammunition,  for  the  mission.  He  is  joined  by  two  other 
Padres,  Julian  de  Mayorga  and  Rolandegui.  To  their 
care  he  commits  the  stores,  with  directions  to  repair  to  the  har- 
bor of  Matanchel  and  await  the  arrival  of  the  bark  which  is 
to  take  them  to  the  peninsula.  The  Padre  himself  goes  by 
land  four  hundred  leagues  along  the  coast  to  the  harbor  of 
Akomi  in  Senora,  for  the  purpose  of  collecting  free  contribu- 
tions from  the  missions  in  the  regions  through  which  he  jour- 
neys. 

About  the  first  of  Januaiy  he  sails  for  Loretto.  He  has  a 
long  tempestuous  voyage.  "This  night,"  says  he,  "the 
thirty-first  of  January,  was  extremely  dark.  "We  were  with 
the  mast  lashed,  and  without  a  rudder ;  and  amidst  rocks  and 
islands ;  the  sea  continually  making  a  free  passage  over  us ; 
the  sailors  spent  with  toil  and  hunger,  having  been  without 
f'od  for  a  day  and  a  half,  were  prostrate,  giving  up  all  for 
lost.    The  least  damage  we  could  expect  was  to  be  drivea 


ul  instincts,  find  means 

contrivances  are  vain, 
warm,  and,  weary  and 
nd  for  the  night, 
the  rising  sun  with  th« 
;  the  "  Litany  de  Seno- 
n  the  language  of  his 
li  solemn  gratitude  they 
I  supply  for  themselves 
several  vessels  to  serve 
of  thanksgiving  to  the 

to  Loretto. 
ed  in  establishing  rais- 

Salva  Tikkra  is  ear- 
re  him  from  the  office  of 
le  desires  to  spend  his 
3f  California.  In  1706 
:pressible  pleasure  does 

of  clothing,  provisions 
B  is  joined  by  two  other 
Rolamlegui.  To  their 
tions  to  repair  to  the  har- 
tal of  the  bark  which  is 

Padke  himself  goes  by 
16  coast  to  the  harbor  of 

collecting  free  contribu- 
3  through  which  he  jour- 

5  for  Loretto.  He  has  a 
night,"  says  he,  "the 
ly  dark.  We  were  with 
er  ;  and  amidst  rocks  and 
T  a  free  passage  over  us ; 
iger,  having  been  without 
•ostratc,  giving  up  all  for 
expect  was  to  be  drivea 


TRAVELS      IN       THE      CALIFORWIAS, 


191 


into  the  sea  of  Gallicia  or  Acapulco.  *  Tnstissima  nocti$ 
imago.'  The  Califomians  got  about  me  like  chickens,  and 
they  were  not  my  least  coniiilants,  as  being  new-born  sons  of 
the  Great  Miulonn.i,  and  had  run  this  risk  in  her  service.  Af- 
ter all  my  journeyings  and  voyages,  I  nevei  knew  what  dan- 
gers or  distresses  by  land  or  sea  were,  until  now."  They  are 
driven  by  this  horrible  tempest  into  the  bay  of  San  Josef,  thirty 
miles  south  of  Loretto.  On  the  third  of  February,  the  storm 
abating,  they  run  up  to  the  desired  haven,  and  are  received 
with  universal  gladness. 

In  1708,  Padres  Salva  Tierka  and  Juan  Ugarte  go  with 
Padre  Mayorga  into  the  midst  of  the  mountains  to  an  Indi m 
settlement  called  Coinondu,  and  invest  him  with  a  mission 
there  under  the  name  of  San  Josef;  and  after  having  aided 
him  in  gathering  the  Indians,  building  a  chapel,  and  some 
bough  huts,  they  return  to  Loretto.  Padre  Mayorga  forms 
some  neighboring  Indians  into  two  towns  which  he  calls  San 
Juan  and  San  Ignacio;  builds  a  fine  cl;urch  at  the  former 
place ;  opens  a  school  for  boys  at  his  own  house ;  erects  a 
seminary  for  girls ;  builds  a  hospital  for  the  sick ;  prepares 
maize  fields  at  San  Josef,  and  plants  vineyards  at  San  Juan 
and  San  Ignacio. 

Many  other  fertile  spots  are  discovered  among  the  deserts 
of  California,  soon  after  Salva  Tiekra's  arrival,  suitable  for 
the  establishment  of  missions.  But  misfortunes  by  sea  and 
land  retard  their  occupancy.  The  following  is  an  instance  of 
this  kind.  The  bark  San  Xavier  sails  from  Loretto  in  August, 
1709,  with  $3,000  in  specie,  to  purchase  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions in  Senora.  A  storm  of  three  days'  continuance  drives 
it  on  a  barren  coast,  north  of  Guaymas,  where  it  is  stranded 
among  the  sands  and  rocks.  Some  are  drowned  ;  others  savt 
themselves  in  the  boat.  Hostile  Indians,  called  Seris  and 
Tepocas,  fall  upon  those  who  escape  and  drive  them  to  sea  in 
the  open  boat ;  dig  up  the  $3,000  which  they  have  hidden  in 
the  sands ;  take  the  helm  from  the  bark,  and  partly  break  it 
in  pieces  for  the  nails.    The  crew  in  the  boat  encotmter  very 


^uU.4l 


193 


SCENES 


THE      PACIFIC 


many  danpjers  in  their  perilous  voyage  to  the  sonth.  Storn-s 
overtake  them.  Their  l)oat  becomes  leaky.  They  have  no 
water.  They  live,  however,  to  reach  the  river  Yaqiii,  sixty 
leagues  from  the  wreck.  FVom  this  place  a  pearl-fisher's 
bark  is  sent  to  I^retto  with  an  account  of  these  disasters ; 
Paduk  Salva  Tierra  hastens  over  in  the  Rosalia  to  Guaymas; 
sends  her  to  a  port  near  the  scene  of  the  shipwreck ;  dis- 
patches the  bark  San  Xavier  to  the  vessel,  while  he  himself, 
attended  by  fourteen  Yaqui  Indians,  passes  up  the  rugged 
coast  by  land  ;  is  two  days  without  a  drop  of  water ;  and  at 
last  arrives  at  the  wreck.  The  San  Xavier's  men  are  merely 
sustaining  life  on  boiled  herbs.  He  sends  to  the  nearest  mis- 
sion for  food  by  an  Indian,  who  succeeds  in  passing  through 
the  hostile  Seris  and  Tepocas,  with  a  small  supply.  This 
does  not  suffice.  Death  is  near  them,  when  the  indefatigable 
Padre  determines  to  journey  through  bands  of  murderous  sav- 
ages to  the  harbor  of  San  Juan  Baptista  for  help  ! 

He  has  not  travelled  far  along  the  coast  when  he  arrives  at 
a  settlement  of  Indians,  who  come  out  against  him  under  arras. 
They  are  led  by  an  old  man,  who  urges  them  on  with  terrible 
vociferations.  Nothing  less  fearful  than  death  seems  promised 
in  their  present  situation.  But  the  Padre,  with  his  usual  in- 
trepidity, advancing  alone  towards  them,  makes  some  small 
presents  to  the  old  man  and  his  son,  which,  accompanied  by 
signs  and  kind  gestures,  soften  their  ferocity  a  little,  when  to 
their  surprise  and  joy  they  hear  the  guns  of  the  Rosalia  !  The 
explosion  of  these  cannon  is  new  to  the  Indians  they 
think  it  the  voice  of  avenging  gods — they  immediately  run 
away  and  bring  to  the  Padre  food,  and  $3,000  which  haj 
been  taken  from  its  place  near  the  wreck.  The  Padre  thus 
unexpectedly  recovers  his  lost  money,  and  the  means  of  con- 
tinuing the  lives  of  himself  and  men. 

The  Rosalia  anchors  near  the  disabled  San  Xavier ;  and 
the  provisions  on  board  for  a  time  relieve  the  distressed  xrork- 
men,  seamen  and  Padres.  But  as  two  months  are  consiunet 
in  refitting  the  wreck,  they  are  again  often  in  want    The 


CI  FIC 


to  the  south.     Storn,s 
leaky.    They  have  no 

the  river  Ya(|ui,  sixty 

place  a  pearl-fisher's 
unt  of  these  disasters : 
le  Rosalia  to  Guayraas ; 
if  the  shipwreck  ;  dis- 
ssel,  while  he  himself, 

passes  up  the  rugged 
drop  of  water ;  and  at 
tavier's  men  are  merely 
ends  to  the  nearest  mis- 
eeds  in  passing  through 

a  small  supply.  This 
,  when  the  indefatigable 
bands  of  murderous  sav- 
ista  for  help  '• 

coast  when  he  arrives  at 
t  against  him  under  arras. 
es  them  on  with  terrible 
lan  death  seems  promised 
Padre,  with  his  usual  in- 
them,  makes  some  small 
,  which,  accompanied  by 
■  ferocity  a  little,  when  to 
runs  of  the  Rosalia  I   The 
w  to  the    Indians    they 
is — they  immediately  run 
1,  and  $3,000  which  hal 
wreck.    The  Padre  thus 
;y,  and  the  means  of  coo- 

n. 

lisabled  San  Xavier  ;  and 
relieve  the  distressed  work- 
two  months  are  consume* 
yain  often  in  want    The 


Fatlier  Salva  Tierra  goes  alone  to  meet  the  Indians. — P.  192 


TRAVELS 


N       THE      CaI.  IF0RNIA8 


193 


missions  of  the  region  afford  them  occasional  aid ;  but  the 
dearth  which  has  pervaded  the  country  (hiring  this  yeiir,  so  far 
disables  these  establishmerits  from  furnishing  adequate  supplies, 
that  Padke  Salva  Tiekua  sends  a  messenger  to  the  distant 
Hussion  garrison,  ninety  miles  up  the  country,  called  Nuestra 
Sennora  de  Gaudalupe,  begging  the  Captain  Don  Francisco 
Xavier  Valcnzuela  to  send  them  food.  This  excellent  man 
immediately  despatches  what  succors  he  can  command ;  and 
soon  after  comes  in  person  with  some  of  his  men  and  a  mors 
liberal  supply. 

When  he  arrives,  such  is  the  distressed  condition  of  the 
Padre  and  those  with  him,  that  this  commander  and  his  vete- 
rans seat  themselves  on  the  beach  and  weep.  After  a  con- 
tinual repetition  of  trials  like  these,  during  two  sultry  months, 
the  San  Xavier  is  afloat,  and  the  brave  Padre  sails  his  vessel 
to  the  Californian  coast ;  visits  the  Padre  Piccolo  at  Santa 
Rosalia  Mulege,  and  encouraging  that  lonely  priest  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  holy  labors,  drops  down  to  I^oretto.  Soon 
after  his  arrival  the  small  pox,  that  exterminator  of  the  In- 
dian race,  sweeps  away  the  greater  part  of  the  children  and 
many  adults,  in  all  the  missions.  The  garrison  also  suffers 
very  much  from  irregularity  of  diet  consequent  upon  the  pre- 
carious means  of  supply,  and  the  necessity  of  living  in  that 
sultry  climate,  on  salt  meat  and  maize.  All  these  sicknesses 
and  deaths  the  Indians  attribute  to  the  Padres.  Their  children, 
say  they,  are  killed  by  baptism ;  the  adults  with  the  extreme 
unction  ;  and  the  soldiers  are  made  sick  by  continual  expo- 
sure to  the  malign  influence  of  prayers,  masses  and  the  exalt- 
ation oi  the  Host.  These  suggestions  are  raised  by  their  old 
sorcerers,  and  threaten  to  embitter  the  Indians  fatally  against 
the  Padres.  But  the  neophytes  stand  by  their  Priests,  and 
convince  their  countrymen  of  their  error. 

From  1709  to  1711,  a  famine  spreads  over  the  entire  Mes- 
can  Territories,  and  California  consequently  obtains  l    maf 
plies  from  that  source.    The  distress  of  these  years  is  so  ril 
eeedingly  gre.it,  that  the  Indian  neophytes  betake  themseh«i 


L    .^ 


194 


•  CENE8      IN       THE       PACIFIC 


to  the  tnountainfl,  uiui  live  on  root»  and  wild  fniilM ;  whilt;  tb« 
ftuldicrs  uf  the  garriiion  eiit  herba  witli  the  self-deiiyinp;  Padres : 
Hiid  to  complete  the  luisrurtuncii  of  this  devoted  country,  two 
barks  used  in  bringing  a  little  food  from  Senora,  are  cast 
away. 

In  1711,  Padke  Salva  Tiurra  sends  Padre  Francisco  Peralta, 
who  arrived  in  California  two  years  before,  to  Matanchel  to 
repair  the  old  Ilosariu.  But  the  frauds  practised  by  the  work- 
men consume  many  thousands  of  dollars,  and  make  the  bark 
so  miserable  a  tliin<^,  that  in  its  fnst  eflort  at  sailing  it  runs 
ashore  in  spite  of  the  helm,  and  is  utterly  lost.  They  now 
build  a  new  one,  at  an  expense  of  $2'2,UO0.  In  this,  then, 
laden  with  supplies,  they  put  to  sea.  But  a  storm  rising,  the 
ill-built  craft  proves  to  be  unmanageable,  Uie  sport  of  the 
waves  and  winds.  She  Ls  driven  to  Cape  San  Lucas  and 
back  again  to  the  isles  of  Mazatlan.  Here  some  of  the  sailors 
forsake  her;  others  remain  on  board,  and  after  many  difficul- 
ties, take  her  in  sight  of  the  coast  of  Loretto.  A  storm  now 
drives  her  ashore  on  the  opposite  coast.  It  is  the  eighth  of 
December.  The  night  is  terribly  dark  and  tempestuoi>» 
Four  seamen  clear  away  the  small  boat,  and  regardless  of  the 
lives  of  the  others,  shove  olF.  Those  who  are  k-ft  hang  to 
the  main  and  mizen  masts  surging  in  the  seas !  Padre  Bensto 
Guisi  and  six  seamen  are  drowned.  Padres  Guillen  and 
Doye,  and  twenty  others,  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  un- 
lash  the  long-boat,  bail  out'the  water  with  two  calabashes, 
and  throwing  aboard  a  piece  of  an  old  sail  and  some  bits  ct 
boards  for  oars,  commit  themselves  to  the  mercy  of  the  waves 
In  the  morning  they  find  themselves  several  leagues  from  land. 
They  row  down  the  coast  a  day  and  a  half,  and  after  a  bois- 
terous night  land  three  hund:ed  miles  south  of  Guaymas. 
Eighteen  persons,  naked,  wet,  pierced  with  cold,  exhausted 
with  rowing,  without  food  or  water,  with  the  sing-le  comfort 
of  having  escaped  death  in  the  sea,  land  on  a  barren  waste 
interspersed  with  fertile  tracts  overrun  with  briars  and  bram- 
bles     They  gather  oysters,  '^ilks  and  heths  to  cat,  ant 


H  C  I  F  I  C 

wild  fruits ;  whil*;  tue 
If  stlf-denyinp;  Padres : 
a  devoted  country,  two 
from  Senora,  are  caBt 

;»adre  Francisco  Peralta, 
before,  to  Matanchel  to 
<  practised  by  the  work- 
ars,  and  make  the  bark 
ertbrt  at  sailing  it  runs 
lUerly  lost.  They  now 
$22,000.  In  this,  then. 
But  a  storm  rising,  the 
geable,  Uie  sport  of  tlie 

0  Cape  San  Lucas  and 
Here  some  of  the  sailors 

,  and  after  many  difficul- 
Loretlo.     A  storm  now 

oast.  It  is  the  eighth  ot 
dark    and   tempestun»« 

oat,  and  regardleas  of  ihe 

ise  who  are  kd  hang  to 

1  the  seas!  Padre  Bensto 
eil.  Padres  Guillen  and 
e  greatest  difficulty,  un- 
rater  with  two  calabashes, 
J  old  sail  and  some  bits  ot 
to  the  mercy  of  the  waves 

i  several  leagues  from  land, 
id  a  half,  and  after  a  bois- 
milcs  south  of  Guaymas. 
;rceu  with  cold,  exhausted 
er,  with  the  single  comfort 
jea,  land  on  a  barren  waste 
rrun  with  briars  and  bnun- 
ks  and  herb*  to  tat,  avA 


THAvr.  t.  *     IN     THE     »;ai.  irrt«»rA«. 


IttS 


nnrrh  into  the  interior  to  find  inhabitants.  As  they  hrcnk 
tlieir  way,  the  bt'ainbl(«  and  briars  lacerate  ihiir  nuked  bo<lie§. 
Two  days  of  agony  from  this  cause  and  from  himger  and 
thirst,  bring  them  into  an  open  plain,  where  they  are  found  by 
Indians.  These  tliey  induce  to  give  information  of  their  pre- 
Mencc  and  sufferings,  to  the  commander  of  the  town  Tamasula, 
who  visits  them  with  horses,  water  and  maize  cakes,  for  their 
relief. 

From  this  town  they  go  to  Gua/ave,  the  nearest  mission  in 
Cinaloa,  where  they  fortunately  fintl  Padre  Francisco  Maxa- 
I  regos.     This  lesuii  Missionary  entertains  them  in  the  mf)st 

liberal  manner.  The  briars  of  the  rugged  path  over  which 
they  travelled,  have  torn  their  clothing  from  their  backs ; 
and  this  holy  man  calls  upon  his  Indian  converts  to  contribute 
of  their  means,  while  he  himself  bestows  his  own  wardrolje, 
to  clothe  the  naked  sufferers. 

Having  been  refreshed  by  rest  and  food,  and  once  more 
clad,  they  leave  the  hospit'dble  Padre  of  Gunzave  for  the  town 
of  Cinaloa.  Here  also  they  are  generously  entertained  by 
Padre  Juan  Yrazoqui,  until  each  departs  to  his  appointed  sta- 
tion. Padre  Guillen  is  roused  instead  of  discouraged,  by 
these  hardships.  Like  all  those  great  spirits  who  are  sowing 
the  gospel  on  the  dttserts  of  California,  his  sinews  become  the 
stronger  as  they  are  worn  by  hardship.  He  travels  over  the 
deserts  to  the  missions  at  Yaqui,  and  in  tlic  month  of  January, 
1714,  sails  to  California  in  the  good  old  San  Xavier. 

The  missions  are  again  entirely  dependent  upon  this  bark 
for  the  transport  of  supplies;  the  loss  in  New  Rosario,  of 
the  commodities  and  clothing,  on  which  the  Padres,  seamen, 
and  soldiers  depend  to  sustain  life,  no  money  left,  no  clothing, 
no  food,  the  only  sea-craft  in  their  possession  unseaworthy, 
and  no  means  of  repairing  her,  on  a  desert  land  and  among 
hostile  Indians  kept  in  subjection  chiefly  by  the  supply  ot 
their  physical  wants,  now  impossible  to  be  done,  are  the  dis« 
couraging  circumstances  which  weigh  on  the  heavy  hearts  of 
the  Padres     But  who  shall  set  bounds  to  the  power  of  moral 


196 


SCENES 


N       THE       PACiriC. 


motive,  when  linked  with  zeal  drawn  from  faith  in  God  1 
These  Padres  look  lor  death,  but  they  desire  to  die,  sickle  in 
hand,  reaping  the  harvests  of  redemption!  They  toil  on; 
they  gather  wandering  Indians  into  towns;  instruct  them, 
thirsting  and  starving  a  part  of  each  day,  and  spending  the 
remainder  among  the  mountains  and  forests,  gathering  here 
and  there  a  dried  root,  or  a  bunch  of  wild  fruit,  to  eat. 

Padre  Ugarte  is  even  not  content  with  these  labors,  but 
makes  exploring  tours  among  the  Indian  settlements  south  of 
San  Xavier.  Wherever  he  goes  they  throng  his  way,  ask  for 
the  baptism  of  their  children  and  the  establishment  of  missions 
among  them.  It  is  1712,  and  Padre  Piccolo,  though  in  bad 
health,  imitates  the  zeal  of  Padre  Ugarte.  With  the  Captain, 
a  few  soldiers  and  Indians,  he  travels  westward  from  Santa 
Rosalia  Mulege,  crosses  the  mountains  of  Vajademin,  finds 
beyond  them  a  small  clear  brook ;  follows  it  to  the  sea,  ex- 
amines the  barren  coast  about  its  mouth,  ascends  a  little 
stream  about  twenty  miles ;  erects  a  cross  and  devotes  the 
neighboring  grounds  to  a  contemplated  mission.  While  he 
remains  here  many  hundred  Indians  come  in  from  the  neigh- 
boring settlements,  beseeching  the  Padre  to  remain  with  them, 
and  as  an  inducement  to  do  so,  promise  to  give  him  their  best 
wild  fruits  and  feathers,  and  devote  their  children  to  the 
Catholic  faith.  He  agrees  to  send  them  a  Padre  to  instruct 
them  more  fully  in  religion,  and  returns  to  his  station. 

The  vessels  used  by  the  people  of  the  opposite  coast  in 
fishing  for  pearls  bring  a  scanty  supply  of  provisions.  The 
Padre  and  people  clothe  themselves  in  the  skins  of  wild 
beasts,  and  continue  their  labors.  In  the  year  1716,  Padre 
Salva  Tiekra  sails  south  in  a  brigantine  called  Guadalupe, 
to  La  Paz,  in  order  to  make  peace  with  the  Guaycuros,  who 
still  retain  an  unfavorable  remembrance  of  Admiral  Otondo's 
ill-advised  conduct,  and  the  constantly  repeated  injuries  of  the 
»)earl  fishermen.  He  is  accompanied  by  three  Guaycuri 
prboners  taken  from  the  pearl  fishers,  whom  he  is  carry- 
ing back  to  their  homes 


A  CI ric. 

n  from  faith  in  God  *? 
desire  to  (lie,  sickle  in 
ption!    They  toil  on; 
towns;   instruct  them, 
day,  and  spending  the 
forests,  gathering  here 
wild  fruit,  to  eat. 
with  these  labors,  but 
ian  settlements  south  of 
thronsi  his  way,  ask  for 
■stablishment  of  missions 
Piccolo,  though  in  bad 
irte.     With  the  Captain, 
westward   from  Santa 
iins  of  Vajadeniin,  finds 
jllows  it  to  the  sea,  ex- 
mouth,  ascends  a  little 
a  cross  and  devotes  the 
ated  mission.     While  he 
come  in  from  the  neigh- 
adre  to  remain  with  them, 
lise  to  give  him  their  best 
ote  their  children  to   the 
them  a  Padre  to  instruct 
urns  to  his  station, 
of  the  opposite  coast  in 
pply  of  provisions.     The 
ves  in  the  skins  of  wild 
In  the  year  1716,  Padre 
rantine  called  Guadalupe, 
I  with  the  Guaycuros,  who 
ranee  of  Admiral  Otondo's 
itly  repeated  injuries  of  the 
anied  by  three  Guaycuri 
fishers,  whom  he  is  carry- 


TRAVELb      I»      THE      CALIPCRNIAa, 


197 


When  he  enters  La  Paz  bay  the  Loretto  Indians  leap  over- 
board and  swim  ashore  ;  the  Padre,  Captain  and  soldiers  fol- 
low hastily  in  their  bouts ;    but  do   not  arrive  in  time  to 
prevent  the  Loretto  tribe  from  such  warlike  demonstrations  as 
put  the  Guaycuros  to  flight.     They  flee,  leaving  their  wive., 
and  children  to  follow  after  at  a  slower  pace.     The  Lorettc 
Indians  do  not   regard  the  orders  of  Padre  Salva  Tierra 
but  led  by  savage  impulse,  fall  upon  the  hapless  women  ant 
children.     These   attempt  to  defend  themselves  with  stones. 
But  they  must  have  perished  had  not  the  Captain  and  the 
nimblest  of  the  soldiers  arrived  at  the  commencement  of  th« 
infamous  encounter.     The  unoffending  creatures  are  saved ; 
and  wailing  horribly,  follow  their  cowardly  fathers  and  hus- 
bands. 

This  unfortunate  event  tries  exceedingly  the  good  Padre 
Salva  Tierra.     He  sorrows  that  his  benevolent  designs  should 
terminate  in  an  outrage  upon  those  whom  he  comes  to  cherish. 
But  it  is  apparent  that  this  rashness  of  the  Loretto  Indians 
renders  useless  any  attempts  at  friendly  connections  with  the 
Guaycuros.     He  therefore  distributes  to  the  prisoners  from 
the  pearlfishers'  vessels,  somo  agreeable  presents,  explains  to 
them,  that  his  object  in  visiting  their  countrymen  was  to  re- 
store themselves  to  their  homes,  and  enter  into  friendly  rela- 
tions with  the  Guaycuros  nation,  and  dismisses  them  with 
such  other  marks  of  his  good  intentions  as  will  open  a  proba- 
bility  of  successful   negotiation  with  their  countrymen  on 
another  occasion.     He  returns  to  Loretto  with  a  heavy  heart : 
and  sends  the  brigantine  to  Matanchel  for  goods  and  pro- 
visions.    A  furious  storm  strands  it ;  the  vessel  and  cargo  are 
a  total  loss;   and  nine  persons  are  drowned.     Thus  death 
again  thins  the  ranks  of  the  Californian  missions  ;  want  and 
nakedness  stalk  among  them  ;  and  the  old  San  Xavier,  after 
eighteen  years'  service,  is  the  only  sea  craft  connecting  them 
with  the  continent  and  with  life.     Amidst  all  these  difScuities, 
however,  the  untiring  Padres  found  the  mission  of  San  Igna- 
cj*  »a  the  Cada  Kaaman,  or  the  vale  of  the  Sedge  Brook. 


198 


SCENES      IN       THE      PACIFIC 


It  is  now  eighteen  years  since  Padre  Salva  Tierha  fended 

in  California  and  erected  the  cross  at  Loretto.     His  labors 
have  been  arduous  and  unremitted.     His  trials  by  shipwreck 
and  tempests,  by  progresses  over  mountains  and  deserts,  by 
hunger  and  thirst,  by  arrows  and  Indian  knives,  by  endu- 
ranees  of  all  kinds,  have  whitened  his  hair,  withered  his 
bones   and  muscles,  made  his  steps  unstable  and  his  head 
tremble  at  the  throbs  of  his  heart.     He  feels  that  the  holy 
water  must  soon  fall  on  his  coffin  lid,  and  California  be  de- 
prived of  his  services.     It  is  the  year  1717.     He  is  at  Loretto, 
with  little  to  eat,  and  badly  dad,  and  scarcely  able  to  walk 
or  stand.     But  he  teaches  the  children-exhorts  the  adults  to 
the  service  of  God,  and  superintends  every  particular  move- 
ment  of  the  garrison  and   the  mission.     In  March,  Padre 
Nicholas  Tamaral,  appointed  to  the  proposed  mission  of  La 
Purissima,  arrives  at  Loretto,  bringing  letters  from  the  reign- 
in<r  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  in  which  among  other  matters  it  is 
strted  that  the  King  has  forwarded  important  instructions  rela- 
tive to  advancing  most  efficiently  the  spiritual  conquest  of 
California,  together  with  a  summons  that  Padre  Salva  Tierra 
shall  immediately  repair  to  Mexico  to  aid  in  devising  the  best 
means  of  effecting  that  object.     Disease,  pain    want  and 
danger  present  no  obstacles  to  this  aged  Patriarch,  when  the 
interest  of  his  missions  calls  upon  him  for  action.     He  im- 
mediately   determines  to  go  to  Mexico.     Accordingly  the 
government  of  Calitornia  is  c6mmitted  to  the  wisdom  of  Padre 
Ugarte,  and  on  the  31st  of  the  same  month  of  March,  the 
good  Padre  and  Jayme  Bravo  sail  for  Matanchel. 

Nine  days'  passage  brings  them  to  the  desired  port;  they 
take  mules  for  Tepic;  the  good  Padre  suffers  greatly  at 
every  misstep  of  his  animal;  they  arrive  at  Tepic  ;  the  Pa 
dre  is  in  extreme  torture  ;  but  tortures  cannot  deter  him  fron 
his  holy  labors;  he  is  too  weak  and  too  much  racked  wiU 
pain  to  mount  a  horse  or  mule,  and  is  therefore  borne  m 
litter  on  the  shoulders  of  Indians,  to  Guadalaxara.  Here  his 
iUness  increases  so  that  he  can  proceed  no  farther.    He  ii 


,  CI FI 0 

Salva  TrERHA  landed 

Loretto.  His  labors 
[is  trials  by  shipwreck 
ntains  and  deserts,  by 
idian  knives,  by  endu- 
his  hair,  withered  his 
unstable  and  his  head 
ie  feels  that  the  holy 

and  California  be  de- 
L717.     He  is  at  Loretto, 

scarcely  able  to  walk 
1 — exhorts  the  adults  to 
every  particular  move- 
ion.     In  March,  Padre 

iposed  mission  of  La 
^  Ifctters  from  the  reign- 
mong  other  matters  it  is 
iportant  instructions  rela- 
he  spiritual  conquest  of 
that  Padre  Salva  Tierra 
o  aid  in  devising  the  best 
Disease,  pain,  want  and 
iged  Patriarch,  when  the 
[lira  for  action.     He  im- 
exico.     Accordingly  the 
cd  to  the  wisdom  of  Padre 
me  month  of  March,  the 
or  Matanchel. 
to  the  desired  port ;  they 

Padre  suffers  greatly  at 
arrive  at  Tepic  ;  the  Pa 
ires  cannot  deter  him  fron 
ind  too  much  racked  witi 
nd  is  therefore  borne  in 
.0  Guadalaxara.  Here  his 
)roceed  no  farther.    He  ii 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIFORNIAS, 


199 


lodged  in  the  college  of  Jesuits.  The  Padres  are  in  attend- 
ance upon  him.  Two  months  of  agony  wear  toward  a  close ; 
and  death  begins  to  chill  his  limbs,  glaze  his  eyes,  and  chain 
his  utterance  :  and  when  he  can  no  longer  stir,  he  calls  to  him 
his  faithful  companion,  Jayme  Bravo,  and  in  the  most  earnest 
manner,  giving  him  instruction  and  powers  for  acting  in  liis 
stead  at  Mexico,  commends  him  and  ins  beloved  missions  to 
the  guardianship  of  Heaven.  And  now  a  hero  dies !  Not 
one  who  has  swung  the  brand  of  war  over  the  villages  and 
cities  of  nations;  not  one  who  has  crushed  the  hearts  of 
men,  yoked  them  in  bondage,  and  severed  every  tendril  of 
mercy  and  justice  from  the  governing  powers ;  not  such  a 
hero  as  men  will  worship ;  but  a  great  and  good  man, 
offering  life  and  every  capacity  of  happiness  within  him 
to  the  well-being  of  savages  in  a  barren  waste  of  mountains ; 
a  hero  in  the  heavenly  armor  of  righteousness,  endur- 
ing fatigue,  hunger,  thirst,  and  constant  danger  among  the 
flinty,  unwatered  wastes  of  unthinking  and  uninstructed  hu- 
man nature ;  a  missionary  of  a  Californian  wilderness ! 
All  the  people  of  the  city  and  neighboring  villages  crowd  to 
the  college,  and  kneel  through  the  streets  and  alleys,  on  the 
balcotiies  and  roofs  of  the  houses,  and  pray  for  the  repose  of 
the  departed  soul  of  Padre  Salva  Tiekra.  There  is  no  noise 
in  Guadalaxara,  nor  business ;  it  is  a  city  of  prayer :  they 
come  one  after  another  and  kneel  and  pray,  and  silently 
retire ;  thirty  thousands  of  people  beseech  Heaven  with  one 
earnest  desire — that  he  whom  they  have  loved,  he  who  has 
labored  so  ardently  in  propagating  the  faith,  may  find  a  man- 
sion of  repose  and  reward  in  the  upper  world  !  Some  Cali- 
fornian Indians,  whom  he  has  brought  with  him,  exhibit 
extraordinary  grief ;  the  whole  city  assists  at  the  interment ; 
tliey  bury  him  in  the  chapel  he  has  erected  many  years  ago 
to  the  Virgin  of  Loretto.  And  thus  end  the  mortal  part  and 
mortal  deeds  of  Padre  Salva  Tierra.  But  his  remembrance 
is  written  in  the  imperishable  record  of  those  great  minds 


200 


SCENE!*       IN       T  II  K 


C  1  F  1  C  . 


^vho  have  conquered  nations  ^vith  the  sabre  of  truth,  and  led 
them  to  a  more  intelligent  and  happy  condition. 

Javme  Bravo,  after  the  burial  of  P^mE  SalvaTierba,  pro- 
ceeds  to  Mexico,  lays  the  condition  of  the  Californ.an  mis- 
sions  before  the  Vice-Royal  Council,  obtains  an  appropriation 
of  four  thousand  dollars  for  the  building  and  equipment  of  a 
vessel  for  the  mission  service,  three  thousand  and  twenty-two 
dollars  for  discharging  the  debts  due  at  the  death  oi  Padub 
Saeva  T.kkua,  and   eighteen   thousand    two  hundred    and 
seventy-five  dollars  for  the  pay  of  the  soldiers  and  sailors. 
While  these  things  are  transpiring  in  Mexico,  a  terrible  hur- 
ricane, accompanied  by  violent  rains,  sweeps  over  Ca  .forma 
Padre  Ugarte's  house,  and  the  church  at  Loretto,  are  level  ed 
to  the  ground  ;  and  the  Padre  himself  stands  by  the  side  of  a 
rock  exposed  to  the  tempest  for  twenty-four  hours.     At  San 
Xavier,  the  channels  used  for  irrigating  the  lands  are  fiUed 
^vith  stones,  and  the  water  thrown  in  torrents  over  the  fields. 
Both    soil   and   sprouting  crops    are    carried  a^^^y.      Ihe 
same  misfortune  occurs  at  Mulege.    The  blasts  ot  the  tem- 
pests are  so  terrific  at  the  garrison,  that  a  Spamsh  boy  named 
Matheo,  is  taken  up  in  one  of  their  gyrations  and  never  seen 
more'    Tornadoes  of  this  kind  are  frequent  m  California 
But  th.  Padres  have  seen  none  equal  to  this  for  violence  ard 
continuance.     What  little  soil  has  been  found  in  the  country 
Tafbeen   dislodged    and    s^ept  into  the  sea  ;  the  coun^ 
b  laid  waste ;  its  rocks  are  bare ;  its  plains  and  vales  are  «)v. 
ered  w.th  heaps  of  stones. 


C  1  K  I  C  . 

iabre  of  truth,  and  led 
condition. 

mE  Salva  Tierba,  pro- 
)f  the  Californian  mis- 
btains  an  appropriation 
na  and  equipment  of  a 
ousand  and  twenty-two 
at  the  death  of  Padre 
ind    two  hundred    and 
lie  soldiers  and  sailors. 
Mexico,  a  terrible  hiir- 
sweeps  over  California. 
I  at  Loretto,  are  levclied 
f  stands  by  the  side  of  a 
nty-four  hours.     At  San 
ting  the  lands  are  filled 
n  torrents  over  the  fields, 
re    carried  away.      The 
The  blasts  of  the  teiu- 
Ihat  a  Spanish  boy  named 
gyrations  and  never  seen 
e  frequent  in  California 
1  to  this  for  violence  ard 
been  found  in  the  country 
into  the  sea  ;  the  country 
s  plains  and  vales  are  cov- 


i 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Padre  Binvo  in  Mexico— Return  to  California— First  ship  built  ir.  Norih- 
west  America— Expciiiiion  to  the  Guaycuros— Niiestra  Seiinora  del 
Pilar  de  la  Paz.— Founding  Nucslra  Sennora  de  Gaudalupe— Burning 
of  IdoU-A  Famine— Locusts— A  Pesiilence- The  Dying— Explo- 
rations by  Land  and  Sea— Indian  Country— Dreadful  Suflerings— 
Tempests— Water-Spouts— Return  of  the  Explorers. 

Thus  stands  the  condition  of  the  Californian  missions  in  17 1 1. 
More  than  fiv«  hundred  thousand  dollars  of  private  benefac- 
tions have  been  expended  upon  them ;  and  the  twenty-five 
thousand  more  lately  granted  by  the  government,  have  been 
invested,  and  chiefly  lost  in  disasters  by  ^ea  and  land.  Now 
the  crops  are  destroyed,  and  the  utter  annihilation  of  these  es- 
tablishments is  anticipated  in  the  course  of  the  /ear. 

But  Jayme  Bravo  is  in  Mexico.     He  collects  a  few  provi- 
sions and  goods,  and   accompanied  by  Padre  Sebastian  de 
Sistiaga  in  a  Peruvian  vessel  presented  to  the  missions  by  the 
Viceroy,  arrives  at  Loretto  in  July,  1718,  and  gives  new 
energy  to  the  missions.     The  founding  of  the  San  Miguel  by 
Padre  Tamaral,  in  29"  and  odd  minutes  N.  among  the  moun- 
tains near  the  Gulf,  is  one  of  the  features  of  returning  hope. 
Soon  after  this  Padre's  arrival  at  his  station,  two  neighboring 
settlemonls  of  Indians  are  baptised.     After  this  he,  with  innu- 
nuM-able  hardships,  crosses  the  mountains  to  the  settlement  of 
the  Cadignmo  tribe.     Here  he  meets  with  the  Indians  from 
the  settlements  of  La  Purissima  Concepcion,  and  accompanies 
them  home.     He  finds  the  soil  of  their  fields  washed  away  by 
the  late  tempest,  but  determines  to  establish  the  mission  La 
Purissima  among  them.     And  after  years  of  toil,  the  zealous 
man  builds  a  parsonage  and  church,  brings  several  maize 
^elds  under  cultivation,  opens  a  mule  track  over  the  moun- 


tU2 


aCKK  KB      IN       THE      P.tCiriC. 


tains  to  Ihe  mission  of  Santa  Rosalia,  and  extends  hin  jurisdir- 
tion  over  forty  settlements,  situated  ivithin  a  circuit  of  ninety 
miles  around  him. 

Many  years  ago  the  Philippine  Islands  were  discovered  aid 
settled  by  Spain.  Soon  a  considerable  trace  sprung  up  be- 
tween them  and  the  Spanish  possessions  in  Mexico.  Indeed 
the  products  of  the  Philippine  Islands  destined  for  old  Spain, 
are  landed  at  Accapulco,  carried  across  the  country  on  mules, 
and  reshipped  for  Old  Spain  at  the  port  of  Vera  Cruz.  The 
passage  from  these  islands  to  the  Mexican  coast  is  made,  for 
the  'greater  part,  through  the  Chinese  seas,  to  latitude  30^  N. 
Here  voyagers  fall  in  with  the  variable  winds,  which  take  them 
to  the  American  coast,  between  latitudes  30''  and  40*^  N.  At 
this  point,  during  the  spring,  summer  and  autumn,  they  meet 
the  northwesterly  winds,  which  drive  them  down  the  coast 
to  Accapulco.  In  these  early  times  navigation  is  imperfectly 
understood.  That  ocean  too  is  chiefly  unknown.  Naviga- 
tors are  not  familiar  with  its  currents,  and  consequently  every 
voyage  across  its  trackless  waters  is  hazardous  and  prolonged. 
And  when  they  reach  the  American  coast,  the  crews  are  sick 
with  the  scurvy ;  and  they  should  land  for  a  supply  of  fresh  pro- 
visions. But  while  no  harbor  is  known,  from  Cape  San  Lucas 
xo  the  remote  north,  at  which  wood,  water  and  other  necessary 
relief  can  be  had,  the  ships  are  obliged  to  keep  down  the  coast 
M)  Mazatlan,  Accapulco,  or  some  other  port,  before  they  make 
Uieir  first  landing,  after  leaving  the  East  Indies ;  a  distance  of 
more  than  eleven  thousand  miles.  And  when  they  arrive  at 
these  ports,  it  frequently  happens  that  nearly  all  the  crew  are 
irrecoverably  disease<l,  or  dead.  In  order  to  avoid  this  dread- 
ful evil,  the  Spanish  crown  has  often  ordered  the  missionaries 
to  explore  the  coasts  for  a  bay  surrounded  by  a  country  suita- 
ble for  the  settlement  of  a  colony.  This  they  have  often  at- 
tempted, but  the  want  of  proper  an>mals  in  their  progresses, 
and  the  miserable  character  cf  the  craft  used  in  their  voyages, 
have  thus  far  prevented  the  attainment  of  their  wishes.  But 
Padre  Ugate  now  determines  to  survey  both  the  Pacific  and 


CI r  t  c , 


id  extends  hv  jurisdic- 
;hin  a  circuit  of  ninety 

]s  werediscorered  aid 
e  trate  sprung  up  be- 
ns in  Mexico.  Indeed 
destined  for  old  Spain, 

the  country  on  muk-s, 
■t  of  Vera  Cruz.  The 
lican  coast  is  made,  for 
jeas,  to  latitude  30''  N. 
winds,  which  take  thera 
les30«'and40°N.  At 
and  autumn,  they  meet 

them  down  the  coast 
avigation  is  imperfectly 
fly  unknown.     Naviga- 
and  consequently  every 
azardous  and  prolonged, 
coast,  the  crews  are  sick 
for  a  supply  of  fresh  pro- 
n,  from  Cape  San  Lucas 
ater  and  other  necessary 
d  to  keep  down  the  coast 
;r  port,  before  they  make 
last  Indies  ;  a  distance  of 
knA  when  they  arrive  at 
t  nearly  all  the  crew  are 
)rder  to  avoid  this  dread- 
,  ordered  the  missionaries 
mded  by  a  country  suita- 

This  they  have  often  at- 
imals  in  their  progresses, 
aft  used  in  their  voyages, 
ent  of  their  wishes.  But 
rvey  both  the  Pacific  and 


'^M^^**'*'' 


TRAVELS      IN       THE      CALIFORN      AS 


SOS 


_-L 


Gulf  coasts  of  the  peninsula.     His  means  are  so  small,  how« 
ei^r,  in  every  respect,  that  his  brethren  do  not  perceive  how 
he  will  do  it.     He  wants  provisions,  men  and  a  ship.     And 
such  is  the  condition  of  public  feeling  in  Mexico,  and  such  the 
difficulty  of  journeying  there,  that  he  cannot  hope  for  aid  from 
his  friends  in  that  quarter.     But  who  knows  the  wealth  of 
exhaustless  energy  !     Padre  Ugarte  will  build  a  ship  in  Cali- 
fornia ! !     He  has,  however,  neither  plank,  timber,  sails,  nor 
rigging,  tar,  nor  any  other  necessary  materials  for  such  a 
work ;  nor  has  he  either  a  builder  or  shipwright,  sawyer,  or  other 
naval  artificers ;  and  if  he  had,  there  is  no  food  for  their  sup- 
port ;  and  worse  than  all,  he  has  no  money  wherewith  to  sup- 
ply  any  of  these  deficiencies.     But  the  Padre  says  the  King's 
orders  must  be  obeyed ;  that  this  cannot  be  done  without  the 
ship ;  and  therefore  the  ship  must  be  built   irrespective  of 
means.     The  sufferings  of  his  fellow  beings  also  demand  it 
The  people  of  the  garrison  and  some  of  the  Padres  smile  at 
Padre  Ugarte's  resolution  against  what  seems  to  them  an  im- 
possibility.    But  they  do  not  estimate  the  creative  powers  of 
a  mind  bent  on  the  accomplishment  of  its  desires.    He  obtains 
a  builder  from  Senora,  and  makes  preparations  for  bringing 
timber  from  the  opposite  coast,  as  he  has  done  for  the  erection 
of  his  churches.     But  hearing  of  a  grove  of  large  trees  two 
hundred  miles  north  of  Loretto,  he  changes  his  determination, 
and  in  September,  1719,  goes  with  his  builders,  two  soldiers  and 
some  Indians  to  Mulege.     Here  he  remains  a  day  with  Padre 
Sistiaga,  and  then  strikes  out  for  that  line  of  mountains  which 
overhangs  the  mission  of  Gaudalupe.  They  climb  the  heights 
and  scour  the  barren  plains ;  endure  inexpressible  difficulties 
and  toils;  and  at  last  discover  a  considerable  number  of  Gua- 
rivos  trees  of  suitable  size ;  standing,  however,  in  such  bottoms 
and  sloughs,  that  the  builder  declares  it  impossible  to  get  them 
to  the  sea.     The  Padre,  disregarding  this  suggestion,  goes  to 
Loretto ;  makes  preparations  for  a  vigorous  effort  to  build  a 
ihip  of  Californian  timber ;  returns  to  the  north ;  levels  rocks, 
cuts  away  brush ;  and  making  a  road  ninety  miles  in  length 


804 


SCENK8       IN       THE       P  A  r  I  »■  I  C 


I 


from  Mule.;eto  the  timber,  fells  it, saws  it  into  plunk*,  trans- 
ports  them  to  Mulege,  and  in  four  months  builds  a  vessel  anc 
launches  with  his  own  hands,  in  September,  1720,  the  first 
ship  ever  built  on  the  northwest  coast  of  North  America ! ! 

In  this  herculean  labor  the  Padre  has  employed  his  entire 
means.    The  little  valuables  sent  him  by  his  friends  in  Mexi- 
co and  elsewhere,  have  not  been  spared.     Even  his  wardrobe 
has  been  freely  distributed  among  the  laborers.     He  himself 
has  swung  the  axe,  has  used  the  whip-saw,  the  chisel  and  the 
hammer ;  he  has  risen  with  the  dawn,  and  invoking  the  smiles 
of  Heaven  and  the  aid  of  ministering  spirits  in  his  toil  of  soul 
a»d  bo.ly,  kindly  called  his  men  to  their  tasks.    They  famish, 
and  so  does  he.     And  when  the  fatigues  of  each  day  are  over, 
the  jutting  rocks  are  their  resting-)     ce;  a  few  hides  their 
bed.    Yet  the  ship  is  built.     High  on  her  stern,  firmly  affixed 
to  her  bulwarks,  is  raised  the  symbol  of  their  faith.     Hei 
name,  how  appropriate,  is,  the  "  Triumph  of  the  Cross." 
During  the  progress  of  the  work,  Jayme  Bravo,  as  purveyoi 
of  the  missions,  goes  to  the  coast  of  Cinaloa  to  procure  goods 
and  provisions.     On  his  arrival  there  he  is  surprised  to  find 
letters  from  the  Provincial  of  Mexico,  ordering  him  to  Gua- 
dalaxara  for  ordination.     He  accordingly  ships  his  supplies 
and  travels  with  all  speed  to  that  city ;  is  admitted  to  holy 
orders ;  and  by  direction  of  his  superior,  proceeds  to  Mexico 
to  procure  aid  for  the  missions. 

His  energetic  labors  are  crowned  with  success.     On  the 
fifteenth  of  March,  1720,  the  council  orders  a  bark  built,  to 
sail  between  Accapulco  and  Peru,  to  be  delivered  to  Padre 
Jayme  Bravo,  together  with  the  arms  and  stores  which  he 
desires.     The  means  of  founding  a  new  mission  at  La  Paz, 
are  also  furnished  by  the  Marquis  de  Villa  Puente  ;  and  Padre 
Bravo  is  designated  as  its  priest  and  founder.     With  a  new 
ship,  therefore,  well  laden  with  supplies,  and  with  new  hopes 
for  all  the  missions,  and  especially  well  furnished  for  his  new 
work  at  La  Paz,  the  Padre  Jayme  Bravo  sails  from  Accapul- 
co in  July,  1720,  and  in  August  of  the  same  year  enters  the 


A  r- 1  >■  T  c  . 

lit  into  plunk i,  trans- 
ths  builds  a  vessel  anc 
tember,  1720,  the  first 
of  North  America ! ! 
s  employed  his  entire 
by  his  friends  in  Mexi- 
d.     Even  his  wardrobe 
laborers.     He  himself 
-saw,  the  chisel  and  the 
and  invoking  the  smiles 
jpirits  in  his  toil  of  soul 
!ir  tasks.     They  famish, 
les  of  each  day  are  over, 
ce;  a  few  hides  their 
1  her  stern,  firmly  affixed 
lol  of  their  faith.     Hei 
friumph  of  the  Cross." 
lyme  Bravo,  as  purveyor 
Dinaloa  to  procure  goodf 
!  he  is  surprised  to  find 
;o,  ordering  him  to  Gua- 
dingly  ships  his  supplies 
ity ;  is  admitted  to  holy 
erior,  proceeds  to  Mexico 

d  with  success.     On  the 
il  orders  a  bark  built,  to 

to  be  delivered  to  Padre 
jrms  and  stores  which  he 
1  new  mission  at  La  Paz, 
i  Villa  Puente  ;  and  Padre 
d  founder.  With  a  new 
iplies,  and  with  new  hopes 

well  furnished  for  his  new 
Bravo  sails  from  Accapul- 
f  the  same  year  enters  the 


TUAVEl,  8       IN       THE       CALIFORNIAS. 


20d 


harbor  of  Loretto,  amidst  a  general  burst  of  joy  and  religious 
thanksgiving  of  the  starving  people  on  shore.     Comfort  and 
joy  reign  again  throughout  the  missions.     The  Patlres  and 
the  garrison  are  clothed  again  ;  and  the  means  being  furnish- 
ed,  their  thoughts  are  again  turned  to  the  establisluueni  of 
other  missions.     Padre  Jayme  Bravo  leads  the  new  under- 
taking.    Two   expeditions  are  therefore  projected;  one  by 
laud  and  another  by  water.     The  former  is  designed  to  open  a 
land  communication  between  Loretto  and  the  site  of  the  m- 
tended  mission  ;  the  other  for  the  conveyance  of  the  men  and 
provisions,   and   other   necessaries  of  the   enterprise.     The 
forces  intended  for  the  expedition  over  land  rendezvous  at  San 
Juan    Baptista   Ligui,  under  command  of  Padre  Clemente 
Guillen.     Padre  Ugarte   leads  the  other.     He  embarks  on 
board  the  "Triumph  of  the  Cross"  with  Padre  Bravo,   the 
soldiers  and  Indians,  and  a  good  stock  of  stores  and  utensils. 
They  arrive  in  safety  at  the  bay  of  La  Paz.     This  is  m  the 
country   of   the   Guaycuros,  or  Pericues,   who  have  been 
grievously  wronged   by  Admiral  Otondo   and   the  Spanish 
pearl   fishermen.      They   are   consequently  inimical   to  the 
Spaniards,  and  will  perhaps  make  deadly  war  upon  them  as 
they  land.     But  it  soon   appears  that  those  prisoners  from 
the  fishing  barks,  whom  Padre  Salva  Tierra  has  returned 
to  their  iromes,  have  given  to  their  countrymen  such  an  ac- 
count of  the  Padre's  kind   treatment  as  disposes  them  to 
friendship.     Some  of  them  appear   in   arms;  but  as  soon 
as  they  see  the  costume  of  the  Padres,  their  arms  are  laid 
aside.     Seated  on  the  ground,  they  allow  the  Padres  to  ap- 
proach,  and  accept  with  high  demonstrations  of  pleasure, 
various  presents.     The   object  of  the   expedition   is  made 
known.     They  are  assured  by  the  Padres  that  it  is  for  their 
benefit     They  have  come  to  found  a  mission  among  them: 
to  make  peace  between  them  and  the  Indians  of  the  neigh- 
boring islands:   to  teach  them  agriculture   and  the   useful 
arts,  and  to  instruct  them  in  the  principles  of  the  Christian 
reiigion.    Thereupon  the  Indians  receive  them  as  friends,  and 


206 


8  »J  E  N  E  f       IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


give  theiu  peimission  to  erect  the  cross  and  ronsccrote  their 
shores  to  God.  Huts  are  now  erected  for  all  the  people ;  the 
stores  and  beasts  are  brought  ashore ;  a  piece  of  ground  is 
cleared  for  a  church  and  a  village ;  and  to  the  great  sur« 
prise  and  delight  of  the  Indians,  a  mission  is  founded  among 
them. 

The  expedition  by  land,  under  Padre  Guillen,  has  not  yet 
arrived;  and  much  disquietude  is  awhile  felt  for  its  i'ate. 
But  it  is  soon  changed  to  gladness.  Three  hundred  miles 
have  been  travelled,  over  mountains,  through  woods  and  mo- 
rasses ;  and  as  the  sun  is  falling  on  the  brown  heights  in  the 
west,  a  salute  of  musketry  is  heard  on  the  northern  shore  of 
the  bay  ;  it  is  returned  by  the  ship ;  and  the  boats  are  imme- 
diately sent  over  for  Padre  Guillen  and  his  company.  They 
are  worn,  naked,  hungry,  and  thirsty ;  and  with  joy  only 
known  to  themselves,  they  bathe  in  the  surf,  drink  the  water 
from  the  spring,  and  eat  the  food  of  their  brethren  in  the  new 
mission  at  La  Paz.  Padre  Ugarte  labors  three  months  at  La 
Pa/,  in  establishing  Padre  Bravo  in  his  mission.  And  now 
having  confirmed  the  league  of  peace  with  the  Indians  by 
numerous  acts  of  benevolence  and  Christian  love,  he  takes  a 
most  affectionate  leave  of  Padre  Bravo  and  the  soldiers  who 
remain  with  him,  and  embarks  for  Loretto.  Padre  Guillen  is 
ho  much  worn  with  his  land  expedition,  that  he  also  returns  by 
sea.  The  Ligui  Indians  who  accompanied  him,  follow  ba(  k 
the  path  by  which  they  came.-  Padre  Bravo,  as  all  others  in 
charge  of  these  missions  have  done  before,  learns  the  Indian 
language ;  builds  a  parsonage,  church  and  huts ;  and  with 
the  greatest  assiduity,  applies  himself  to  gain  the  affection  of 
the  natives,  civdize  and  instruct  them,  and  relieve  them  from 
want  As  a  reward  of  his  labor,  more  than  six  hundred 
children  and  adults  receive  baptism :  and  more  than  eight 
hundred  adults  are  assembled  in  three  well  regidated  settle- 
ments, called  Nuestra  Sennora  del  Pilar  de  La  Paz,  Todos 
Santos,  and  Angel  de  la  Guarda.  He  also,  as  he  pursues 
his  holy  labors,  discovers  some  tracts  of  arable  land  sixtj 


(    I  Fl C. 

a  and  consecr.^te  iheir 
or  all  the  people ;  the 
a  piece  of  ground  ia 
and  to  the  great  sur- 
sion  is  founded  among 

2  Guillen,  has  not  yet 
hile  felt  for  its  late. 

Three  hundred  miles 
hrough  woods  and  mo- 
e  brown  heights  in  the 

the  northern  shore  of 
id  the  boats  are  imme- 
id  his  company.    They 
ty ;  and  with  joy  only 
le  surf,  drink  the  water 
leir  brethren  in  the  new 
bors  three  months  f»t  La 
[lis  mission.     And  now 
ice  with  the  Indians  by 
iristian  love,  he  takes  a 
vo  and  the  soldiers  who 
retto.    Padre  Guillen  is 
n,  that  he  also  returns  by 
panied  him,  follow  ba(  k 
e  Bravo,  as  all  others  m 
before,  learns  the  Indiaa 
rch  and  huts  ;  and  with 
f  to  gain  the  affection  of 
Q,  and  relieve  them  from 

more  than  six  hundred 
n :  and  more  than  eight 
ree  well  regvdated  settle 

Pilar  de  La  Paz,  Todosi 

He  also,  as  he  pursues 
tcts  of  arable  land  sixty 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      C  A  L  I  f  0  K!»  I  A  8 


207 


miles  distant,  which  he  annually  plants  with  maize.     All  thi« 
Padre  Bravo  accomplishes  single  handed  in  seven  years. 

In  the  year  1720,  wliile  the  Padres  are  yet  at  La  Paz,  a 
mission  is  founded  by  Padre  Everard  Ilcllen,  among  mountains 
in  latitude  27^  N.,  thirty  leagues  northwest  of  San  Ignacio, 
thirty  from  Concepcion,  and  from  sixty  to  seventy  north  ot 
Loretlc.  The  climate  of  this  location  is  cold  and  unhealthy. 
But  the  Indians  repair  to  it  from  the  neighboring  settlements, 
and  express  the  utmost  joy  that  the  Padre,  after  long  solicita- 
tions, has  come  to  give  them  the  religion  of  the  white  m^n. 
This  mission  is  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sennora  de  Gaudalupe. 
In  the  midst  of  the  labor  of  erecting  the  edifices  of  the  mission, 
the  Padre  visits  the  most  distant  of  the  surrounding  settle- 
ments, to  instruct  the  aged  and  sick,  who  are  unable  to  come 
to  him.  During  his  absence  for  these  works  of  charity,  the 
captain,  soldiers  and  Indians,  forward  the  erection  of  the 
church,  parsonage  and  other  buildings  of  the  mission ;  so  that 
at  the  end  of  six  weeks,  it  is  in  so  good  a  condition  that 
the  captain,  leaving  a  guard  of  four  soldiers,  returns  to  Lo- 

retto. 

Such  is  the  zealous  industry  of  Padre  Hellen,  and  the  inter- 
esting attention  of  the  Indians,  that  on  Easter  eve,  1721,  he 
baptizes  a  few  converts.  And  now  from  all  the  villages  come 
applications  for  instruction  and  baptism.  The  good  Padr* 
finds  it  difficidt  to  make  the  Indians  understand,  that  some 
knowledge  and  the  abandonment  of  their  old  practices  are 
necessary,  before  they  can  receive  the  sacred  rite.  He  exhorts 
them  to  give  up  the  trumperies  used  in  their  heathenish  cere- 
monies, and  worship  Jehovah.  At  length  they  bring  him  a 
large  quantity  of  pieces  of  charmed  wood,  feathers,  cloaks, 
deer's  feet,  &c.,  which  he  commits  publicly  to  the  flames, 
while  he  receives  the  transfer  of  their  faith  to  the  religion  ol 
the  cross.  Thus  the  Padres  are  making  all  desirable  pro- 
gress in  the  spiritual  culture  of  the  Indians,  and  everything 
promises  well.  But  the  following  years,  1722  and  '23,  are 
very  disastrous  to  their  feeble  settlements  j  and  especially  so 


SOS 


BCKNRt      IN       THE       PACrriC 


to  Gnudiilupc.  The  whole  country  is  overrun  with  lorunlii 
The  fruits,  the  chief  sustenance  of  the  Imhans,  are  entirely  .|e- 
stroyed.  The  niaize  iind  other  supplies  in  the  granaries,  are  i\\>- 
trihuted  to  save  tlicm  from  futnine.  Ihit  in  (Jauchdupe.  even 
thi'se  arc  insuflicient.  The  Indians  are  therefore  compelled 
to  sulxiist  on  the  locusts;  and  the  consequenoe  is  a  terrihie 
epidemic,  by  which  great  numbers  are  destroyed.  They  are 
aflhcted  willj  painful  ulcers  of  a  most  loathsome  character. 
l)urin<^  this  epidemic,  Padre  Ilellen  has  to  fill  the  oiFices  of 
physician,  nurse,  confessor,  priest,  and  father.  He  endures 
almost  incredible  fatigue;  flies  from  one  village  to  another; 
administers  medicine,  prepares  food,  and  smoothes  with  a  wo- 
man's teiKh'rncss,  the  rude  couches  of  his  sulFering  children. 
Thus  he  continues  till  the  sickness  ends;  when  worn  out  with 
the  multiplicity  and  the  character  of  his  labors,  he  hails  the 
appro;jch  of  a  season  of  rest  with  joy  and  thanksgiving.  But 
scarcely  does  it  come,  when  another  still  more  fatal  pestilence 
breaks  out  among  them.  A  dysentery  unusually  fatal  sum- 
mons the  fainting  energies  of  the  good  Padre  to  another 
effort.  lie  again  enters  upon  his  charitable  offices,  going 
from  rancheria  to  rancheria,  like  an  angel  of  mercy,  consoling, 
comforting,  praying  and  blessing.  At  last  the  consequences 
of  his  severe  labor  fall  upon  himself  in  a  distressing  hernia, 
and  defluxion  of  the  eyes,  so  extremely  painful,  that  he  is 
obliged  to  leave  his  flock  and  retire  to  Loretto.  In  a  few 
months  he  is  sufKciently  restored,  however,  to  return  to  his  du- 
ties, and  his  aiHicted  Indians  receive  him  with  every  demon- 
stration of  faithful  love  and  veneration.  The  Padre  avails  him- 
self of  this  attachment  to  draw  them  to  his  faith  so  effectually, 
that,  in  1726,  seventeen  hundred  and  seven  converts  of  all 
ages  are  the  fruit  of  Padre  Hellen's  devout  labors.  Some, 
living  at  a  distance,  are  attached  to  the  more  contiguous  mis- 
sions of  Santa  Rosalia  and  San  Ignacio.  But  twenty  ranche- 
rias  remain  to  Padre  Hellen.  These  he  maintains  in  the  most 
peaceful  and  gentle  intercourse  with  each  other  and  with 
himself.     They  are  divided  into  villages  of  four  rancherias. 


('  I  r  I  c 

1  overrun  with  locimlH 
luliaiis,  are  eiitiri'ly  .It'- 
ll the  f^rauaries,  are  di'»- 
hit  in  Ciiiiuhihipe.  even 
re  therefore  compelled 
jHsecjuen^e  is  a  terrible 
!  destroyed.     They  are 
St  loathsome  character, 
has  to  fill  the  olhces  of 
lid  father.     He   endures 

one  villaijre  to  another ; 
iid  smoothes  with  a  wc- 
)f  his  suffering  children. 
[Is ;  when  worn  out  with 

his  labors,  he  hails  the 

and  thanksgiving.  But 
still  more  fatal  pestilence 
cry  unusually  fatal  s\un- 

good  Padre  to  another 
charitable  ofTices,  going 
ingel  of  mercy,  consoling, 
At  last  the  consequences 
If  in  a  distressing  hernia, 
emely  painful,  that  he  is 
re  to  Loretto.     In  a  kvr 
wever,  to  return  to  his  du- 
e  him  with  every  demon- 
)n.  The  Padre  avails  him- 
,  to  his  faith  so  effectually, 
and  seven  converts  of  all 
n's  devout  labors.     Some, 
3  the  more  contiguous  mis- 
lacio.     But  twenty  ranche- 
se  he  maintains  in  the  most 
,vilh  each  other   and   with 
illages  of  four  rancherias. 


T  R  A  V  K  I,  S       IN       THE       ('  A  I.  I  K  0  fi  N  I  A  »  . 


209 


with  each  a  chapel.  And  in  these  humble  sanctuaries,  nfl 
often  as  the  Padre  \isils  lluin,  the  red  men  gather  and  pay 
tlieir  (levotions  to  the  true  (iod  !  The  pr()gI•e.^s  made  in  spir- 
itual improvement  is  e(iiial  to  his  most  ardent  desires.  Mut 
the  nature  of  the  country  forbids  e({ual  advancement  in  the 
arts  of  civilised  life.  They  cannot,  raise  the  small  grains; 
and  their  only  resource  is  the  cultivation  of  inai/e  and  the 
raising  of  cattle.  These  are  procured  by  the  Padre  ;  aru. 
with  the  native  liuits  ali()nl  them  a  conilnr<al)le  sultsistence. 
The  justice  and  kindness  of  the  Padre  win  him  the  love  and 
esteem  of  all  the  Indians;  and  he  desires  to  live  and  die 
among  them.  Hut  his  health  again  failing,  and  his  superior 
regarding  him  with  more  tenderness  than  he  does  himself, 
transfers  him  to  an  easier  olliee  in  Mexico.  And  thus,  having 
spent  sixteen  years  in  tliH  most  arduous  and  faithful  discharge 
of  his  duties  as  a  missionary  in  California,  he,  with  grief  and 
tears,  in  1735,  takes  leave  of  tlie  IndiaHs  of  Santa  Guadalupe. 
While  these  laiiors  are  being  ^)rosecuted,  a  very  strong  de- 
sire is  felt  by  the  Padres  to  extend  the  commercial  and  civil 
advantages  of  California  by  the  establishment  of  colonies,  gar- 
risons, and  good  harbors,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Philip- 
pine and  Chinese  ships.  In  order  to  accomplish  this,  it  is 
desirable  to  do  three  things  ;  first,  to  take  a  minute  survey  by 
water,  of  the  Pacific  coast,  from  Cape  San  Lucas  northward, 
in  search  of  such  harbors ;  second,  to  pursue  the  same  search 
by  a  land  expedition,  skirting  the  coast  between  the  same 
points;  and  third,  to  survey  the  Californian  Gulf,  in  order  to 
ascertain  whether  the  peninsula  be  really  such,  or  an  island, 
cut  oH*  from  the  main  land  by  a  channel  at  the  north  end 
Great  difficulties  oppose  the  prosecution  of  all  these  enter- 
prises by  the  feeble  powers  of  the  Padre.  But  after  mu  "h  de- 
lil)eration,  it  is  resolved  to  undertake  the  two  last.  The  sur- 
vey of  the  Gulf  being  deemed  the  most  difficult  and  import- 
ant. Padre  Ugarte  determines  to  take  charge  of  it  himself,  and 
while  he  is  making  the  necessary  preparation,  he  desires 
Padre  Guillen  to  attempt  the  land  tour,  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 


210 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC 


They  li  arn  from  the  narrative  of  Viscayno,  whr  has  sur 
<reyed  the  coast  northward  from  Cape  San  Lucas,  in  the  pre* 
ceding  century,  that  there  is  a  spacious  bay  in  latitude  SS'^ 
or  24°  N. ;  and  to  this  point  Padre  Guillen  directs  his  steps  in 
1719,  accompanied  by  a  party  of  soldiers,  and  three  bodies  of 
Californians,  armed  after  the  manner  of  the  natives.  They 
travel  over  a  rough,  barren,  craggy  country,  and  are  obliged 
to  use  the  greatest  caution  to  prevent  the  natives  from  cutting 
them  off.  Twenty-five  days  they  journey  thus,  and  at  last 
reach  the  bay  of  MagHalena ;  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  re- 
posing in  the  embrace  of  lofty  mountains.  On  one  arm  of  it 
they  find  a  rancheria  of  Indians,  whom  they  gain  over  by  a 
few  presents,  and  enter  into  friendly  intercourse  with  them. 
From  them  they  learn  that  there  is  but  one  well  of  fresh 
water  in  the  vicinity ;  but  that  on  a  neighboring  island  called 
Santa  Rosa,  there  is  an  abundant  supply.  They  have  no 
means,  however,  of  crossing  to  it.  The  whole  region 
proves  so  rough  and  divided,  between  marshes  and  inac- 
cessible piles  of  rock,  as  to  be  worthless.  They  there- 
fore make  a  circuit  of  four  leagues  from  the  sea  to  the 
rancheria  San  Benito  de  Aruy.  Here  they  receive  from  the 
Indians  a  very  discouraging  account  of  the  scarcity  of  water, 
on  the  whole  coast.  Notwithstanding  this,  the  Padre  is  anx- 
ious to  survey  the  country  from  north  to  south,  and  uses  all 
his  eloquence  to  induce  the  soldiers  and  Californians  to  under- 
take it  But  being  fatigued' and  disheartened,  they  refuse  to 
proceed.  The  Padre  yields  reluctantly  to  the  necessity  of  the 
case,  and  taking  some  friendly  Indians  of  the  coast  with  him 
as  guides,  commences  his  return  to  Loretto.  From  the  supe- 
rior knowledge  that  the  guides  possess,  they  accomplish  their 
back\''ard  journey  in  fifteen  days ;  and  once  more  congratu 
late  themselves  on  their  arrival  at  the  garrison. 

Their  report  does  not  much  encourage  the  hope  of  Pudie 
Ugarte  in  relation  to  his  expedition  by  sea  But  having  made 
the  best  preparations  in  his  power,  he  sets  sail  from  the  bay  of 
Loretto  on  the  fifteenth  of  May,  1721,  with  tlie  "  Triumph  ul 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CAI.  IF0RNIA8. 


211 


C  I  F  I  C 

iscayno.whr  has  sur 
San  Lucas,  in  the  pre- 
as  bay  m  latitude  23^ 
lillen  directs  his  steps  in 
era,  and  three  bodies  of 
of  the  natives.     They 
ountry,  and  are  obliged 
the  natives  from  cutting 
urney  thus,  and  at  last 
tiful  sheet  of  water  re- 
ains.     On  one  arm  of  it 
om  they  gain  over  by  a 

intercourse  with  them. 

but  one  well  of  fresh 
neighboring  island  called 
supply.      They  have  no 
t.      The    whole    region 
ween  marshes  and  inac- 
worthless.      They   there- 
ues  from  the  sea  to  the 
ere  they  receive  from  the 
t  of  the  scarcity  of  water, 
ing  this,  the  Padre  is  anx- 
lorth  to  south,  and  uses  all 
and  Californians  to  under- 
lisheartened,  they  refuse  to 
intly  to  the  necessity  of  the 
lians  of  the  coast  with  him 
>  Loretto.     From  the  supe- 
sess,  they  accomplish  their 

and  once  more  congratu 
the  garrison. 

icoarage  the  hope  of  Pudie 
in  by  sea  But  having  made 
,he  sets  sail  from  the  bay  of 
1721,  with  the  "Triumpbol 


the  Cross,"  and  a  boat  called  the  Santa  Barbara,  to  be  used 
in  sounding  such  watcrr.  as  are  too  shallow  for  the  larger 
vessel.  The  Santa  Barbara  has  eleven  feet  keel  and  six  leet 
beam.  She  carries  eight  persons.  The  bilaniler  carries 
tvventy  j  six  of  whom  are  Europeans,  and  the  rest  Indians. 
Of  the  former,  two  have  passed  the  straits  of  Magellan,  another 
has  made  a  voyage  to  the  Philippine  Islands  and  Batavia, 
and  another  has  been  several  times  to  Newfoundland.  The 
pilot  passes  for  a  man  of  learning  and  experience ;  and  thus 
supported,  Padre  Ugarte  departs  on  his  momentous  enter- 
prise. He  takes  but  a  small  stock  of  provisions,  expecting  to 
receive  a  full  supply  from  the  mission  on  the  op[)osite  coast 
of  Pimeria.  The  winds  bear  them  safely  to  the  bay  of  Con- 
cepcion,  where  Padre  Ugarte  visits  the  mission  of  Santa  Ro- 
salia, and  spends  some  hours  in  social  pleasure  with  Padre 
Sistiaga.  Hence  they  pass  the  islands  of  Salsipuedes.  From 
these  they  cross  the  Gulf  to  the  harbor  of  Santa  Sabina  and 
the  bay  of  San  Juan  Baptista.  Here  they  observe  Indians 
standing  on  the  shore,  who  flee  as  the  boat  nears  them.  When 
the  Padre  lands,  he  sees  a  rude  cross  set  up  in  the  sand.  The 
simple  solitary  sign  speaks  to  the  good  man's  heart.  He 
bows  before  it,  and  the  crews  prostrate  themselves  in  rever- 
ence at  its  foot.  This  is  enough.  The  Indians,  reassured  by 
this  act,  shout  a  friendly  welcome,  and  rush  from  their  con- 
cealment. They  have  known  the  venerable  Salva  Tierra  ; 
and  the  strangers'  reverence  for  the  cross  allays  all  their  fears; 
so  strong  have  been  their  love  and  respect  for  that  great  man, 
that  they  put  all  trust  in  his  brethren  ;  and  are  so  impatient 
to  be  near  the  Padre  Ugarte,  that  they  swim  to  the  ship,  and 
manifest  their  joy  by  kissing  his  hands  and  face,  and  embrac- 
ing his  feet.  The  good  Padre's  heart  is  deeply  touched  by 
these  t;:)kexis  of  confidence  and  love,  and  having  sent  two  of 
them  with  a  letter  to  the  Padre  of  San  Ignacio,  and  distribut- 
ed some  presents  among  the  others,  makes  preparations  to 
procure  a  supply  of  water.  For  this  purpose  all  the  casks  are 
iiannediatcly  put  on  shore.     They  have  no  interpreter,  but  the 


212 


B  C  E  N  E  S       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


Indians  seem  to  enter  into  some  dispute  relative  to  the  cnsks. 
By  and  by  they  all  take  leave,  intimating  by  signs  that  they 
will  return  with  the  next  sun.  The  Padre  and  the  crew  grow 
apprehensive.  What  do  the  Indians  mean  1  It  cannot  be 
known.  But  being  late,  they  go  on  board,  and  wait  tlie 
event.  Night  comes  on ;  but  no  hostile  savages  break  its 
silence.  With  the  early  morning,  however,  the  dreaded  sava- 
ges are  seen  returning  in  troops,  with  rush  buckets  filled  with 
water ;  the  men  with  two,  and  the  women  one  each.  The 
faithful  creatures,  understanding  the  want  implied  by  the  empty 
casks,  have  visited  their  mountain  springs  during  the  night, 
and  now  rejoice  to  pour  their  crystal  treasures  into  the  good 
Padre's  vessels.  Repaying  their  kindness  as  liberally  as  his 
small  means  will  permit,  he  undertakes  to  visit  their  kinsmen 
on  a  neighboring  island.  The  pinnace  and  hilander  are  pi- 
loted by  two  of  these  Indians.  A  small  party  in  a  canoe  row 
in  advance  of  the  ships,  during  the  night.  At  dawn  they  are 
in  a  narrow  channel  full  of  rocks  and  sand  spits ;  and  notwith- 
standing their  precautions,  the  bilander  grounds  on  a  shoal 
and  requires  all  the  efforts  of  her  crew  for  some  hours  to  get 
her  off. 

'l  his  period  of  anxiety  over,  another  begins ;  for  now  the 
canoe  and  pinnace  have  disappeared.  The  bilander  therefore 
goes  on,  though  dangers  beset  her  on  every  side,  and  after 
three  days  of  tacking  and  sounding,  reaches  a  tortuous  chan- 
nel leading  into  a  large  bay.  In  this  lie  the  pinnace  and 
canoe  near  the  island  they  are  seeking.  Thither  they  direct 
their  course  without  more  difficulties  or  delays.  As  they  ap- 
j)roach,  the  natives  appear  on  the  shore,  armed  and  shouting 
with  the  intention  of  intimidating  the  strangers.  But  their 
countrymen  swimming  ashore  in  advance,  inform  them  that 
Padre  Salva  Tierra's  brother  is  come  in  the  ship  to  see 
them.  Hearing  this,  they  lay  down  their  arms  and  express 
the  liveliest  sentiments  of  joy.  The  bilander  having  dropped 
her  anchor,  the  Padre  is  earnestly  solicited  to  go  on  shore 
But  being  attacked  with  tlie  most  excruciating  pains  through- 


V  C  I  F  I  C  . 

,e  relative  to  the  casks. 
,ing  by  signs  that  they 
idre  and  the  crew  grow 

mean  1  It  cannot  be 
1  board,  and  wait  the 
stile  savages  break  its 
vever,  the  dreaded  sava- 
rush  buckets  filled  with 
mmen  one  each.  The 
ant  implied  by  the  empty 
rings  during   the  night, 

treasures  into  the  good 
dness  as  liberally  as  his 
es  to  visit  their  kinsmen 
,ce  and  bilander  are  pi- 
lall  party  in  a  canoe  row 
ight.     At  dawn  they  are 
sand  spits ;  and  notwith- 
inder  grounds  on  a  shoal 
ew  for  some  hours  to  get 

Lher  begins ;  for  now  the 
The  bilander  therefore 

on  every  side,  and  after 
,  reaches  a  tortuous  chan- 
I  this  lie  the  pinnace  and 
;ing.  Thither  they  direct 
s  or  delays.  As  they  ap- 
shore,  armed  and  shouting 

the  strangers.  But  their 
advance,  inform  them  that 

come  in  the  ship  to  see 
,wn  their  arms  and  express 
lie  bilander  having  dropped 
^  solicited  to  go  on  shore 
excruciating  pains  through- 


TRAVELS       IN       T  H  K       t:  A  I,  1  F  O  R  N  I  A  S 


213 


out  his  pereon,  from  the  chest  downward,  he  reluctantly  fore- 
goes the  pleasure  of  complying  with  their  ijivilution.  These 
pains  have  followed  him  occasionally  since  the  severe  expo- 
sure which  he  endured  in  the  harbor  of  Seris.  The  Indians, 
seeing  that  illness  prevents  his  leaving  the  ship,  construct  a 
number  of  small  light  floats,  and  send  aboard  a  deputation  of 
forty  or  fifty  persons,  recpieciting  that  he  will  occupy,  during 
his  indisposition,  a  house  which  they  have  erected  lor  him  on 
the  beach.  The  good  Padre  cannot  refuse  this  proller  of 
sympathy,  and  though  every  motion  is  agony,  gives  direc- 
tions to  be  placed  in  the  boat  and  rowed  ashore.  On  landing, 
he  is  treated  with  great  consideration.  The  islanders  have 
formed  themselves  in  double  file  from  tlie  waterside  io  the 
house ;  the  men  on  one  side  and  the  women  on  the  other. 
Between  these  lines  he  is  borne  to  the  dwelling.  It  is  a 
small  wigwam  constructed  of  green  boughs,  iionting  plea- 
santly on  the  open  bay.  Here  the  sulfering  Padre  being 
seated,  the  people  who  have  lined  his  pathway,  come  in  one 
by  one,  first  the  men,  then  the  women,  and  passing  along, 
bow  their  heads  that  he  may  lay  his  hand  upon  them,  and 
bless  them.  The  Padre  conceals  his  bodily  agonies  with 
great  heroism,  and  receives  them  with  much  pleasantness  and 
regard. 

This  ceremony  over,  the  islanders  gather  about  for  instruc- 
tion. He  cannot  remain  sufficient  time  to  do  this ;  ami  re- 
commending them  to  go  to  the  Mission  del  Populo,  and  bring 
thither  an  Indian  teacher,  who  will  answer  their  inquiries  and 
teach  them  the  precepts  of  the  g'lspel,  he  re-embarks  and 
continues  his  survey.  Ho  soon  afterward  discoveis  a  small 
open  bay,  where  his  little  fleet  comes  to  anchor.  His  sup- 
plies are  now  nearly  exhausted.  It  therefore  becomes  him  to 
hasten  his  explorations.  Accordingly  he  sends  the  pinnace 
t:  survey  the  coast  by  sea,  and  three  men  to  examine  it  by 
land.  The  latter  return  on  the  second  day.  They  have 
taken  an  outline  of  the  neighboring  land,  and  have  seen  a 
pool  of  stagnant  water,  and   some  mule  tracks  in   the  (lath 


214 


SCENES      IN       THE      PACIFIC, 


leading  from  it.  The  Padre  sees  much  in  these  tracks,  and 
despatches  two  seamen  with  orders  to  follow  them.  These 
arrive  on  the  third  day  at  the  Mission  of  Concepcion  la  Ca- 
borca.  Here  they  find  Padre  Luis  Gallardi,  to  whom  they 
deliver  Padre  Ugarte's  letters,  addressed  to  himself  and  the 
Padre  Missionary  of  San  Ignacio.  These  being  found  to  con- 
tain urgent  petitions  for  the  promised  supplies,  the  Padre 
Gallardi  immediately  sets  out  with  such  small  quantities  as 
be  can  collect  at  so  short  notice. 

Padre  Ugarte  is  still  suffering  the  most  excruciating  tor- 
tures. The  only  position  which  he  can  endure,  is  on  his 
knees.  He  has  been  twelve  days  in  these  dreadful  agonies, 
unable  even  to  go  on  shore.  But  now  hearing  of  the  arrival 
of  Padre  Gallardi,  and  the  expect  d  visit  of  the  Padre  Mis- 
sionary from  San  Ignacio,  he  determines,  if  possible,  to 
receive  them  ashore.  It  is  no  easy  thing  for  him  to  leave  the 
ship.  But  at  last  it  is  accomplished ;  and  he  travels  a  leagup 
and  a  half  to  meet  his  visiters. 

The  meagre  supplies  which  they  bring  him  are  a  source 
of  anxiety  to  the  host  and  his  guests.  The  pinnace,  too, 
is  still  absent.  She  was  sent  to  survey  the  coast  at  the 
same  time  -that  the  men  were  despatched  by  land.  The 
shores  of  the  Gulf  have  been  searched  for  a  great  distance 
north  and  south,  but  no  trace  of  her  being  found,  she  is 
nearly  given  up  for  lost.  The  bilander,  too,  is  in  contnual 
danger  from  the  agitation  of  the  sea.  She  has  already  pajted 
one  of  her  cables ;  and  now  a  heavy  sea  carries  away  her 
bowsprit,  on  which  is  mounted  the  "  Holy  Cross !"  This 
causes  great  consternation.  Fortunately  a  returning  wave 
tL  jws  most  of  her  bowsprit  back  ;  but  the  cross  is  still  at 
the  mercy  of  the  waves !  and  the  fears  of  the  crew  increase. 
Heaven  frowns  on  their  labors,  and  has  removed  from  them 
the  symbol  of  its  mercy.  The  next  day,  however,  an  Indian 
recovers  the  sacred  emblem,  and  it  is  again  planted  in  triumph 
on  the  prow.  Attention  is  now  turned  to  obtaining  wood  and 
water.     The  former  is  easily  procured  in  the  glen  near  the 


A  CI  FIC. 

ich  in  these  trucks,  and 
)  follow  them.     These 
of  Concepcion  la  Ca- 
tallardi,  to  whom  they 
ised  to  himself  and  the 
nese  being  found  to  con- 
led  supplies,  the  Padre 
uch  small  quantities  as 

most  excruciating  tor- 
i  can  eiKlure,  is  on  his 
ti  these  dreadful  agonies, 
w  hearing  of  the  arrival 
[  visit  of  the  Padre  Mis- 
ermines,  if  possible,  to 
hing  for  him  to  leave  the 
;  and  he  travels  a  leagup 

bring  him  are  a  source 
lests.  The  pinnace,  too, 
survey  the  coast  at  the 
lespatched  by  land.  The 
ched  for  a  great  distance 

her  being  found,  she  is 
lander,  too,  is  in  confnual 
a.  She  has  already  pa ;ted 
eavy  sea  carries  away  her 
the  "Holy  Cross!"  This 
tunately  a  returning  wave 
;   but  the  cross  is  still  at 

fears  of  the  crew  increase, 
id  has  removed  from  them 
>xt  day,  however,  an  Indian 
t  is  again  planted  in  triumph 
urned  to  obtaining  wood  and 
cured  in  the  glen   near  llie 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFOKNtiS 


215 


shore;  but  the  latter  they  bring  from  a  spring  several  miles 
distant.  While  thus  engaged,  they  rejoice  to  see  three  of  the 
pinnace's  crew  approaching  them.  They  relate  that  after 
weathering  a  very  rough  sea,  and  being  several  times  in  im- 
miinent  danger,  they  cast  anchor  at  sunset  in  a  large  shallow 
bay,  Tr:ti  two  fathoms  water,  and  went  to  rest.  On  the  fol- 
lowmg  njjrning  they  were  in  a  singular  predicament  for  sea- 
men, out  of  sight — not  of  land— but  of  water ! !  The  sea 
had  retired.  What  should  be  done  ?  No  water,  either  fresh 
or  salt,  was  in  sight,  and  the  supply  of  provisions  was  very 
sca'nty.  Some  ofiiieni  resolved  therefore,  to  leave  the  pinnace 
in  search  of  water  and  food.  Finding  none,  however,  and 
seeing  nothing  but  famine  and  death  Ijefore  them,  they  con- 
cluded to  travel  down  the  coast  to  Yaqui.  The  pinnace,  how- 
ever, was  visited  by  another  flood  tide,  which  her  exhausted 
crow  improved  to  get  her  afloat.  Her  keel  had  been  much 
damaged.  This  they  repaired,  and  immediately  laid  their 
course  for  the  bilander.  Four  days  after  leaving  her  unfor- 
tunate berth  she  rejoins  her  companion.  They  now  determine 
to  depart  from  this  ungenerous  region  and  its  treacherous 
waters,  where  neither  food,  fresh  water,  fuel  nor  home  f( 


or 


man  are  to  be  found,  but  a  mere  wilderness  of  lonely  shores. 
Somewhat  disheartened  by  these  unpropitious  circumstances, 
Padre  Ugarte,  on  the  second  of  July,  turns  his  prow  westward 
for  California.  On  the  third  day  afterward  he  drops  the 
anchor  of  the  bilander  and  sends  the  pinnace  ashore  to  talk 
with  some  Indians,  who,  at  the  sight  of  the  fleet,  have  lined 
the  shore,  all  armed  in  their  native  style.  Before  the  men 
leave  the  pinnace  the  Indians  draw  a  line  on  the  sand,  and 
inUmate  by  signs  it  will  not  be  safe  for  their  visiters  to  cross 
it  A  few  presents,  however,  and  some  pantomiming,  estab- 
lish affairs  on  a  better  footing.  They  conduct  the  Padres 
and  people  to  then-  rancheria,  at  which  is  abundance  of 
water. 

After  remainmg  a  short  time  with  these  savages,  they 
journey  about  nin«  leagues  along  the  coast  and  find  five 


216 


gCENES       IN       TlIK       PACIFIC 


Watering  places,  with  a  ranclieria  at  each.  The  Bilantler 
continuing  her  survey,  at  length  casts  anchor  in  a  large  bay  ; 
but  finding  the  current  so  strong  as  to  prevent  her  riding  lii'ad 
to  the  wiiui,  Padr<!  Ugarte  sends  the  pinnace  down  the  coast 
in  search  of  a  better  harbor,  while  the  pilot  goes  ashore  in 
the  boat  seeking  an  anchorage  farther  up  the  bay,  returns 
next  day  with  the  boat  in  so  shattered  a  condition,  that  it 
is  with  difficulty  the  people  are  taken  on  board  before  she 
parts  asunder.  The  pilot  reports  that  he  left  her  on  the  sand 
and  went  a  short  distance  to  a  rancheria ;  that  while  there 
exchanging  friendly  intercourse  with  the  Indians,  the  tide 
came  in  with  tremendous  force,  and  threw  the  boat  so  vio- 
lently upon  the  rocks,  that  she  separated  from  stem  to  stern ; 
that  the  Indians  offered  them  timber  to  build  another ;  but  as 
this  was  impossible,  they  drew  the  nails  from  the  oars,  fasten- 
ed the  two  parts  together,  and  using  their  sounding  line  and 
painter  for  oakum,  and  substituting  clay  for  pitch,  caulked 
the  seam.  All  night  they  were  thus  employed,  the  Indians 
kindly  rendering  them  whatever  assistance  was  in  their  power  ; 
and  the  next  day  keeping  near  the  shore  with  their  crazy 
leaky  boat,  they  reached  the  bilander  as  related.  In  a  short 
time  the  pinnace  arrives,  having  cruised  forty  leagues  and 
discovered  no  harbor. 

The  bilander  now  again  stands  northward,  and  in  a 
few  days  finds  herself  sailing  in  waters  whose  variable  hue 
indicates  her  approach  to  the  outlet  of  some  great  river. 
Padre  Ugarte  keeps  the  pinnace  sounding  ahead,  and  after 
standing  across,  and  making  some  northing,  comes  to  anchor 
on  the  Peninsula  side,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  of  the 
west.  It  is  disgorging  a  great  volume  of  angry  waters,  laden 
with  grass,  weeds,  trunks  of  trees,  burned  logs,  timbers 
of  wigwams,  &c.  There  has  evidently  been  ruthless  work 
inland.  Terrible  storms,  accompanied  with  thunder  and 
lightning,  have  visited  the  voyagers  during  the  night,  and 
spread  over  the  country,  whence  the  river  issues.  The  men 
are  anxious,  as  soon  as  the  flood  subsides,  to  go  up  and  sur- 


I  CI  F  I  C 

each.     The  Bilaniler 
inchor  in  a  large  bay  ; 
prevent  her  riding  hi  ad 
linnace  down  the  coast 
e  pilot  goes  ashore  in 
,r  up  the  bay,  reliuns 
,>d  a  condition,  that  it 
on  board  before  she 
.  he  left  her  on  the  sand 
heria ;  that  while  there 

1  the  Indians,  the  tide 

threw  the  boat  so  vio- 
ited  from  stein  to  stern; 

to  build  another ;  but  as 
ails  from  the  oars,  fasten- 
r  their  sounding  line  and 

clay  for  pitch,  caulked 
us  employed,  the  Indians 
stance  was  in  their  power; 
e  shore  with  their  crazy 
[Jer  as  related.     In  a  short 

cruised  forty  leagues  and 

ids  northward,  and  in  a 
vaters  whose  variable  hue 
jtlet  of  some  great  river, 
sounding  ahead,  and  after 
northing,  comes  to  anchor 
)uth  of  the  Colorado  of  the 
lume  of  angry  waters,  laden 

trees,  burned  logs,  timbers 
vidently  been  ruthless  work 
jpanied  with  thunder  and 
,gers  during  the  night,  and 
the  river  issues.  The  men 
subsides,  to  go  up  and  sur- 


TRAVELS      IN      TUK      CAl,  IK0KNIA8 


217 


<eT  tlib  stream.  But  Padre  Ugarte  thinks  the  floods  beneath, 
and  *he  angry  clouds  above,  will  render  the  undertaking  haz^ 
ardous.  Beside,  himseFf  and  several  of  his  crew  are  very  ill. 
They  therefore  cross  the  western  mouth  of  the  Colorado,  and 
anchor  in  four  fathom  water,  opposite  the  island  which  divides 
the  outlet.  From  this  point  they  have  a  distant  view  of  the 
union  of  the  Peninsula  with  the  main  land.  The  Padre  is  de- 
sirous of  exploring  this  region  more  particularly ;  but  ill 
health  and  the  great  danger  to  which  his  vessel  is  exposed 
from  the  impetuosity  and  height  of  the  tides,  make  him  hesi- 
tate. The  pilot  is  satisfied  from  the  present  height  of  the 
tides  that  they  are  at  the  head  of  a  gulf;  and  that  the 
waters  beyond  it  are  those  of  the  Colorado.  The  dan;_,er  of 
remaining  in  this  place  becoming  more  and  more  imminent, 
they  at  length  hold  a  council,  at  which  it  is  determined  to  re- 
turn to  California.  Their  decision  is  received  by  the  men 
with  a  general  acclamation  of  applause,  and  greatly  to  the 
satisfaction  of  all,  tiiey  weigh  anchor  on  the  sixteenth  of 
July,  1721,  for  the  port  of  Loretto. 

Their  course  lies  down  the  middle  of  the  Gulf ;  sometimes 
standing  toward  one  shore  and  sometimes  the  other ;  in  order 
to  note  more  particularly  the  islands  and  shoals,  which  fill 
these  waters.  Meantime  they  are  visited  by  tremendous  tem- 
pests and  storms  of  rain  ;  and  the  Padre,  fearing  for  the  peo- 
ple in  the  pinnace,  which  is  without  a  deck,  urges  the  mate  to 
leave  her  and  come  with  her  crew  on  board  of  the  bilander. 
But  that  officer  trusting  to  his  own  craft,  informs  the  Padre, 
tkiat  if  he  will  furnish  him  with  provisions,  he  will  sail  direct- 
ly to  Loretto ;  and  to  secure  safety  in  so  doing,  will  keep  so 
near  the  shore  as  to  be  able  to  run  in,  should  any  accident 
render  such  proceeding  necessary.  They  therefore  separate, 
and  each  pursues  his  own  course.  The  bilander,  after  much 
trouble,  arrives  at  the  islands  of  Salsipuedes.  She  is  here 
obliged,  by  the  winds  and  strong  currents,  to  lie  at  anchor 
for  several  nights.  At  last,  however,  she  weathers  the  Islands 
of  Tibmon.     But  such  is  the  force  of  the  currents,  that  in  six 


318 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC 


hours  they  lose  the  labor  of  eight  days.     Meantime  the  tern- 
pesta  continue  almost  every  night  with  frightful  fury.    The 
hungry  waters  roar  around  the  trail  bark,  and  the  winds  and 
storms  scourge  her  as  if  she  were  some  doomed  thing,  labor- 
ing under  their  curse.    But  the  men  take  courage,  for  the 
«  Triumph  of  the  Cross"  is  a  special  object  of  Divine  favor. 
Three  successive  nights  the  fires  of  Saint  Elmo  light  the  cross 
at  the  mast  head,  and  no  evil  can  befall  them  after  such  evi- 
dence of  God's  protection.     They  are  encouraged,  therefore,  to 
make  a  third  attempt  to  escape  from  this  dangerous  neighbor- 
hood.    Eight  days  struggling  are  vain.     The  currents  and 
storms  will  not  suffer  them  to  depart ;  and  at  last  they  resolve 
to  come  to  anchor  at  a  convenient  place  which  they  discover 
near  one  of  the  islands,  and  go  on  shore.     This  begms  now  to 
be  a  matter  of  necessity  on  account  of  the  sickness  which  has 
disabled  all  the  crew  except  five.     Some  have  the  scurvy, 
and  others  are  suffering  from  the  effects  of  the  sea  water, 
which,  farther  up  the  Gulf,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Colorado, 
has  been  so  poisonous,  as  to  produce  painful,  obstmate  sores, 
and  sharp  pains  in  many  parts  of  the  body.     Padre  Ugarte 
himself,  besides  his  other  indispositions,  is  afflicted  with  the 
scurvy ;  and  it  is  essential  that  he  take  means  to  recover 
health.    The  Padre,  notwithstanding  his  illness,  is  desirous  to 
go  in  the  boat  to  the  Seris  coast,  and  thence  by  land  to  Guay- 
mas     But  the  bare  mention  of  his  departure  causes  such  de- 
jection among  the  crew,  that  he  promises  not  to  leave  them  if 
it  cost  his  life  to  remain.  . 

They  lie  at  anchor  in  this  place  about  four  days ;  during 
which  time  they  are  visited  by  a  tempest  more  violent  than 
any  that  preceded  it.  At  length  to  their  inexpressible  joy, 
on  the  eighteenth  of  August,  they  escape  these  vexations,  and 
are  once  more  in  an  open  sea.  On  the  Sunday  mornuig  fol- 
lowing,  they  hail  a  most  happy  omen  to  their  future  voyage. 
Three  beautiful  rainbows  hang  over  the  islands  they  have  just 
weathered;  bright  arches  of  promise  rising  above  the  cloud* 
that  have  so  long  lowered  over  them.    The  sick  too  are  no^ 


;  the  tem« 
iry.    The 
winds  and 
ng,  labor- 
;e,  for  the 
■ine  favor, 
it  the  cross 
•  such  evi- 
lerefore,  to 
\  neighbor- 
irrents  and 
hey  resolv-€ 
ey  discover 
gins  now  to 
;  which  has 
he  scurvy, 
;  sea  water, 
i  Colorado, 
tinate  sores, 
idre  Ugarte 
;d  with  the 
to  recover 
s  desirous  to 
nd  to  Guay- 
ises  such  de- 
eave  them  if 

ays;  during 
violent  than 
pressible  joy, 
ixations,  and 
morning  fol- 
ture  voyage, 
hey  have  just 
e  the  clouds 
:  too  are  new 


r 


ii 


TRAVELS      IN 


THE       CAI.  IKORWIAS. 


219 


.3 


all  recovering,  and  everythu.ff   promises  fuirly  to  the  buffeted 
n>ariners.     Their  hopes  are  vain.     Otlu-r  ,nisl<.rlu..es  are  in 
reserve,  more  IVightlul  tl.ai.  any  they  have  enco.i.ilere.l.     t  "f 
just  belore  they  reacli  the  bay  of  Concopcion,  a  storm  con.es 
up    from   the   north-east  so  very  suddenly,  that  they  have 
barely  time  to  furl  the  topsails  and  reef  the  foresail,  belore  its 
lury  reaches  them.     The  lij^htnin.^  falls  aroun.l  them,  as  it  it 
would  scorch  an  ocean  to  ashes,  and  the  thunder-peals  shake 
the  firmament;  the  rain  falls  like  the  pouring  of  an  upper 
sea,  and  the  wind  ploughs  the  ocean  into  mountains!    In  the 
hei.rht  of  this  raging  war,  the  terrified  mariners  diseover   a 
wakT-spout  not  more  than  a  league  distant,  travelling  direetly 
toward  the  ship,  with  the  speed  of  the  wind  !     They  fall  upon 
their  knees  before  the   cross,  and  implore  the  protection  ot 
"  Our  Lady,"  and  their  patron  Siiints.     They  spare  neither 
prayers,  vows,  nor  entreaties !     And  suddenly  when  the  foe  is 
almost  upon  them,  the  wind  shifts  and  drives  it  among  the 
thirsty  mountains  of  California.     It  discharges  its  devastating 
energies  upon  their  barren  sands  and  rocks  !     Padre  Ugarte 
says,  that  among  all  the  dangers  of  the  voyage,  this  was  the 
time  of  greatest  consternation. 

About  the  first  of  September,  the  vessel  comes  to  anchor 
in  the  bay  of  Concepcion ;  and  they  repair  in  boats  to  Mulege, 
to  partake  the  hospitality  of  Padre  Sistiaga.     After  spen.ling 
about  two  weeks  in  recruiting  the  sick,  they  return  to  their 
voyage,  and  soon  after  arrive  at  Loretto.     To  their  great  joy 
they  find  the  pinnace  has  arrived  four  days  in  advance  of 
them.     Thus  ends  this  eventful  and  important  voyage.     It 
serves  to  satisfy  the  Padres  of  many  things  which  before  were 
doubtful ;  namely,  that  on  the  coast  of  California  are  some 
few  watering  places  near  the  shore ;  that  the  Indians  are 
kind,  gentle,  and  willing  to  be  instructed ;  while  those  on  the 
main  coast,  east  of  the  Gulf,  are  sluggish,  ungenerous,  an.! 
unwilling  to  enter  into  any  intercourse  with  the  whites.    They 
are  also"  now  convinced  that  California  is  no  island,  but  a 


i  I 
II 


di 


990 


RCENE8      IN       THE      PACiriC. 


pL'niiwula  ;  ami  that  all  their  plans  for  extending  the  iniwinnn 
80  as  to  lorin  a  chain  of  cotinec.tion  with  those  in  Piuicria  are 
It-asible.     They  have  also  obtained  a  much  more  ariiirate 
knowledge  of  the  Gulf  and  its  islands,  shoals  and  currents, 
than  they  ever  before  possessed ;  so  that  the  difficulties  and 
dangers  of  any  future  voyage  are  much  lessened.     Great  sat- 
isfaction is  felt  at  these  results ;  and  yet  the  Padres  grieve 
that  they  have  not  found  a  safe  harbor,  as  their  King  has  de- 
sired, in  which  the  distressed  seamen  of  the  ships,  bound  front 
the  Philippine  Islands  to  Acapulco,  may  anchor  and  be  spared 
by  timely   care,  a  dreadful  death   from  the  scurvy.      The 
Padres  still  consider  it  their  duty  to  pursue  this  object.     They 
feel  a  moral,  as  well  as  national  obligation  to  prevent  this 
suffering.     It  can  only  be  done  by  discovering  a  harbor  on  the 
Pacific  coast,  secure  from  seaward  storms  and  convenient  to 
fresh  water.     With  a  view  to  this,  Padre  Tamaral  surveys 
nearly  the  whole  coast  from  his  mission  to  Cape  San  Lucas, 
and  far  northward  also,  from  the  same  point;    but  all  to  no 
purpose.     It  is  found  inhospitable  and  barren  near  the  sea  ; 
and  destitute  of  a  harljor  in  which  ships  may  lie  with  any 
safety. 

Padre  Ugarte,  on  his  return  to  Loretto,  directs  a  new  sur- 
vey of  the  same  coast  as  far  north  as  possible.     And  in  com- 
pliance with  this  order,  a  small  detachment  of  soldiers  under 
the  captain  of  the  garrison  goes  to  the  mission  of  Santa  Ro- 
salia de  Mulege,  and  thence  with  Padre  Sistiaga,  to  the  mis- 
sion of  Guadalupe.    On  the  nineteenth  of  November,  1721, 
it  leaves  for  the  coast,  and  advances  northward  to  28°  N. 
In  this  excursion  they  find  three  pretty  good  harbors,  with 
plenty  of  water  and  won    ,  out  no  arable  land  near  them. 
The  largest  one  is  not  far  from  the  mission  of  San  Xavier  ; 
and  may  therefore  be  supplied  with  provisions,  timber,  &c., 
from  that  post.     Highly  gratified  with  these  discoveries,  they 
return  to  Loretto  and  report  to  Padre  Ugarte  what  they  have 
found.    The  Padre  sends  a  narrative  of  his  own  voyage,  to- 


get 
agi 
be 
the 
toi 


p 

n 

g 
1( 


T  H  A  V  B  L  *       IN       T  II  K       r'  A  I.  I  F  O  R  V  I  A  «  . 


321 


tniminnil 
liiicria  are 
arciirnle 
(Mirrcnts, 
lulties  and 
jreat  sat- 
ires grieve 
ig  has  (fe- 
cund from 
be  spared 
^y.      The 
:t.     They 
event  this 
•bor  on  the 
ivenient  to 
ral  surveys 
$an  Lucas, 
it  all  to  no 
ir  the  sea ; 
e  with  any 

a  new  sur- 
id  in  com- 
diers  under 
Santa  Ro- 
to the  mis- 
iber,  1721, 
to  28°  N. 
•bors,  with 
lear  them, 
n  Xavier ; 
tnber,  &c., 
eries,  they 
they  have 
oyage,  to- 


get'ner  with  the  map  urul  journa.  of  his  pilot,  and  Padre  Sisti- 
aga's  ucLDiiPl  ot  his  disc  nveries,  to  tin-  Viceroy  of  Mexico,  to 
be  transmitted  to  the  Court,  for  tlie  inr)rmation  and  artion  of 
the  Lroveiniuent.  Meanwhile  the  Padres  turn  their  attention 
to  the  S]>iritual  comiiiest  of  this  wild  country. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 


A  Mission  Foumli.l — A  Tornado— Death— Anoilicr  Mission  Founded— 
A  Viiii-yaril— A  Harvest— Indicai ions  of  Trouble— A  MurdcT— For- 
bcnrancc — Three  Murders — Measures  taken  for  Defence — The  Insur- 
gcntii  Captured — A  Trial — ASeBlcnce— A  Reprieve — Death  of  Padrt 
PJLColo— A  Visitor — l-'uriher  Steps  in  the  Compiest— A  Voyage- 
Birds— Natives — Country — Islands— A  Plunge — A  Sliark — Death. 

TiiK  Padres  have  lost  none  of  their  religious  zeal  while 
prosecuting  these  civil  enterprises;  and  they  have  gained 
much  topographical  and  other  knowledge,  which  will  be  of 
general  service  in  their  future  missionary  labors.  They  have 
learned  the  practicability  of  extending  their  missions  farther 
north.  The  country  there  is  more  fertile  and  better  supplied 
with  wood  and  water.  The  moral  aspect  too  is  more  promis- 
mg.  The  natives  in  that  quarter  are  much  superior  in  intellect, 
more  gentle  and  friendly,  more  honest  and  faithful ;  and  in 
every  way  more  inviting  and  promising  than  those  in  the 
south.  There,  is  a  rich  field  of  labor  opened  to  them.  But  at 
the  same  time  the  condition  of  the  southern  natives  renders  it 
more  necessary  that  they  should  be  formed  into  missions. 
They  are  treacherous,  vindictive,  bloody ;  and  have  many  vices 
which  are  unknown  among  the  northern  people.  The  whole 
nation  of  Pericues  with  its  several  branches  of  Uchities,  Guay- 
curos  and  Coras,  are  continually  engaged  in  destructive  wars, 
so  that  no  security  can  be  enjoyed   by  the  missions  or  th#i? 


ill 


222 


SCENKS       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 


converts,  until  this  entire  people  are  brought  under  the  influ- 
ence of  the  Padres.  To  this  end,  during  the  time  that  Padre 
Ugarte  has  been  exploring  the  Gulf  and  coast,  two  new  7nift» 
sions  have  been  founded  among  Pericues. 

The  Marques  de  Villa  Puente,  having  a  deep  interest  in  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  in  California,  has  endowed  two  missions 
which  shall  be  founded  between  Cape  San  Lucas  and  Loretto. 
On  receiving  tidings  of  this,  it  is  resolved  that  Padre  Guil- 
len shall  leave  the  mission  San  Lucas  de  Malibat,  and  found 
a  new  mission  between  the  Uchities  and  Guaycuros.  Accord- 
ingly in  1721,  he  settles  among  them  and  lays  the  foundation 
of  a  church  and  other  buildings  necessary  to  a  mission,  on  the 
shore  of  Apaifi',  forty  kagues  by  sea,  and  on  account  of  im- 
passable mountains,  sixty  by  land,  from  Loretto.  The  mission 
is  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sennora  de  los  Dolores,  and  is  styled 
Los  Dolores  del  Sur.  The  country  around  it  is  barren  and 
desolate.  The  inhabitants  are  the  most  vindictive,  treacher- 
ous and  stupid  of  all  the  Californians.  Padre  Guillen  has 
therefore  no  easy  or  pleasant  task  to  execute.  But  he  enters 
upon  it  with  so  much  zeal  and  love,  is  so  unsparing  of  his 
efforts,  and  so  universally  kind  and  gentle  toward  those  whom 
he  would  win  to  his  flock,  that  his  labors  are  rewarded  even 
more  largely  than  his  fondest  hopes  anticipate. 

It  is  found  advisable  after  the  '^ood  Padre  has  been  laboring 
here  for  some  ti^ie,  to  remove  his  mission  farther  into  the  in- 
terior, to  a  place  called  Tanuetia,  about  ten  leagues  from  the 
Gulf  and  twenty-five  from  ilie  Pacific.  In  this  region  the  In- 
dians live  in  the  wildest  state.  They  have  no  villages;  and 
the  Padre  is  obliged  to  seek  them  in  raves  and  wootls,  and 
among  the  almost  inaccessible  rocks  of  the  mountains.  With 
gieat  labor  and  the  most  indefatigable  perseverance  he 
draws  them  from  their  retreats  and  forms  them  into  six  villa- 
ges, called  Nuestra  Sennora  de  los  Dolores,  La  Concepcion 
de  Nuestra  Sennora,  La  Incarnacion,  La  Trinidad,  La  Redemp- 
cion,  and  La  Resurreccion.  He  also  assembles  many  other 
wandering  Indians,  and  erects  for  them  the  new  mission  of 


a 
II 

si 
tl 

g 
ci 

P' 
w 

N 

fe 

Ir 

ai 

Ic 


i 


TRAVELS       IN       THECAL  IFOUNIA.S 


223 


er  tbe  influ- 

that  Padre 

ro  new  mi*" 

terest  in  the 
wo  missions 
and  Loretto. 
Padre  Guil- 
t,  and  found 
)S.     Accord- 
le  foundation 
ission,  on  the 
count  of  im- 
The  mission 
and  is  styled 
s  barren  and 
ive,  treacher- 
e  Guillen  has 
But  he  enters 
sparing  of  his 
:d  those  whom 
ewarded  even 

5  been  laboring 
,er  into  the  in- 
agues  from  the 
region  the  In- 
)  villages ;  and 
ind  woods,  and 
untains.     With 
erseverance  he 
1  into  six  villa- 
La  Concepcion 
ad,  La  Redemp- 
iles  many  other 
new  mission  of 


San  Luis  Gonzaga.  Lastly,  he  turns  his  attention  to  the  con- 
version of  the  Indians  on  the  Pacific  coast,  from  the  mission 
of  San  Xavier  southward  to  the  Coras ;  and  founds  among 
them  a  new  mission.  The  Padre  has  now  spread  his  labors 
over  an  immense  tract  of  country,  extending  forty  leagues  up 
the  Peninsula  from  Cape  San  Lucas,  and  embracing  the  whole 
territory  from  one  coast  to  the  other. 

The  soil  of  this  region  is  extremely  poor.     A  small  tract 
at  Aparte  on  which  the  Indians  are  enabled  to  raise  sufficient 
maize  for  sustenance,  is  all  that  can  be  cultivated.     Ami  be- 
sides the  physical  dltliculties  incident  to  these  desolate  wastes, 
the  Padre  has  savage  poverty  and  its  inseparable  mental  de- 
gradation, to  weaken  his  hands  and  try  his  faith.     This  is  pe 
culiarly  distressing  to  the  good  Padre.     It  appears  to  him  im- 
possible to  bring  these  Indians  into  civilized  habits  of  living, 
without  the  industry  acquired  by  the  cultivation  of  the  soil. 
Notwithstanding  all  these  momentous  obstacles,  however,  (and 
few  can  appreciate  them  who  have  not  seen  the  poor  starving 
Indian  in  his  native  wilderness),  the  good  Padre's  labors  here 
are  so  efficie«t  and  deeply  grounded  in  the  true  philosophy  of 
love,  that  these  savages,  once  so  vindictive  and  turbulent,  are 
so  changed  as  to  stand  firm  during  all  the  subsequent  rebel- 
lions of  the  south,  and  offer  the  Padres  and  Christian  Indians, 
flying  from  the  treacherous  and  cruel  Pericues  and  Coras,  an 
affectionate  and  safe  asylum  in  the  mission  de  los  Dolores  del 
Sur.     During  the  year  1721,  another  mission  endowed  by  the 
Marques  de  la  Puente,  has  been  founded  in  the  nation  of  the 
Coras,  near  Cape  San  Lucas,  under  Padre  Ignacia  Maria  Na- 
poli.     Padre  Ugarte,  before  embarking  on  his  survey  of  the 
gulf,  gave  direction  to  Padre  Napoli  to  wait  the  arrival  of  the 
bark  with  supplies  from  Mexico,  and  taking  whatever  he 
stood  in  need  of  for  his  new  station,  to  proceed  in  the  bark  to 
La  Paz,  and  thence  by  land  to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  the  place 
chosen  for  his  mission.     This  vessel  arrives  in  the  middle  of 
July ;  and  on  the  twenty-first,  Padre  Napoli  embarks  with 
four  soldiers  and  Captain  Don  Estevan  Rodriguez ;  and  on 


AM 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


ilie  sectind  of  August,  anchors  at  La  Paz.  Pac-e  Nape  .i  is 
met  by  the  Indians  with  great  veneration.  They  conduct  hirn 
xn  process^  m  to  the  cauich  where  Padre  Jayrae  Bravo,  tl>en 
missionary,  is  waiting  to  receive  him. 

Having  rested  from  the  toil  of  the  voyage,  the  Padre  sends 
th?  supplies  to  Palmas  Bay  in  a  boat,  while  himself  and  the 
soldiers  proceed  by  land  for  the  twofold  purpose  of  establish- 
iii^  some  communication  between  the  contemplated  mission 
and  La  Paz,  and  also  of  inviting  such  Indians  as  they  may 
meet  on  the  way,  to  settle  near  him  and  receive  instruction 
During  the  eight  days  of  travelling  through  this  wildernes», 
however,  they  meet  no  natives.     The  news  of  their  approach 
has  aroused  their  suspicions  to  such  a  degree,  that  they  desert 
their  rancherias  and  fly  before  the  Padres,  as  if  they  were 
come  to  curse  instead  of  bless  them.     On  the  tw^enty-fourth  of 
August  they  reach  their  place  of  destination.     Padre  Napoli 
is  suffering  extreme  pain  in  consequence  of  a  fall  from  his 
mule.     No  Indians  appear ;  the  boat  does  not  arrive ;  and  t'e 
Paiire  therefore  is  troubled.     One  evening  Padre  Napoli  is 
walking  alone  at  some  distance  from  the  tent,  when  suddenly 
his  ears  are  saluted  by  the  most  frightful  bowlings,  and  on 
looking  up  he  sees  a  company  of  naked  Indians  approaching 
him  with  the  most  furious  gestures.     They  are  led  by  one  ot 
gigantic  stature,  painted  for  battle,  in  black  and  reii,  and  par- 
tially  covered  by  a  kind  of  hair  cloak.     In  one  hand  he  has  n 
fan  of  feathers,  and  in  the  other  a  bow,  and  arrow.     Several 
deer's  feet  and  other  unseemly  objects  dangle  from  a  band 
around  his  wa''»t.     The  Padre,  concluding  that  his  time  is  now 
come  to  die,  commends  his  soul  to  mercy,  and  advances  to 
meet  the  Indians.     He  remembers  the  instructions  of  Padre 
Ugarte,  and  concealing  his  fears,  looks  them  boldly  in  the 
face,  and  even  makes  signs  of  contempt  for  their  savage  arts 
Their  apparent  fury  is  a  little  checked  by  his  demeanor ;  and 
joe  Padre  gaining  courage,  approaches  nearer  and  signifies 
oy  signs  that  he  is  grieved,  but  not  frightened  by  their  inten- 
tions.    He  then  proceeds  with  great  kindness  to  distribute 


am 
pel 

ers 

bin 

len 

Th. 

the 

the 

Thi 

ten 

(Ire 

cei' 

den 

Stil 

feai 

hav 

ed 

the 

Sh 

in 

to 

tin 

dis 

dn 

rei 

an 

th 

fe 

w 

lo 

fr 

ti 

tl 
tl 


Nape  a  is 
induct  hirn 
iravo,  tlien 


adre  sends 
iself  and  the 
if  establish- 
ated  mission 
IS  they  may 
instruction 
s  wildernes*, 
eir  approach 
it  they  desert 
if  they  were 
nty-fourth  of 
Padre  Napoli 
fall  from  his 
rive;  and  t'e 
Ire  Napoli  is 
vhen  suddenly 
vlings,  and  on 
i&  approaching 
led  by  one  ol 
I  red,  and  par- 
hand  he  has  « 
row.     Several 
le  from  a  band 
his  time  is  now 
id  advances  to 
tions  of  Padre 
boldly  in  the 
eir  savage  arts 
leroeanor;  and 
;r  and  signifies 
by  their  inten- 
ds to  distribute 


L  S      IN       THE      CALIF0RNIA9. 


226 


among  them  some  trifling  presents  which  he  has  about  hia 
person,  and  invites  them  to  come  to  the  tent  and  receive  oth- 
ers. This  treatment  produces  its  desired  effect.  They  follow 
him  to  the  tent,  where  they  are  kindly  entertained ;  and  at 
length  depart,  bearing  tokens  of  peace  to  their  friends  at  home. 
They  seem  much  pleased ;  but  intimate  as  they  depart  that 
they  are  afraid  of  the  mules  and  the  Padre's  dog ;  and  that 
they  cannot  return,  unless  these  are  concealed  from  sight. 
This  the  Padre  signifies  shall  be  done.  The  next  day  tiie 
tent  is  thronged  with  little  parties,  to  the  number  of  five  hun- 
dred, bringing  such  presents  as  the  country  affords,  and  re- 
ceiving "n  return  frocks  of  sackcloth,  razors,  and  beads.  This 
demonstration  cheers  the  hearts  of  the  Padre  and  soldiers. 
Still  the  boat  does  not  arrive — and  they  are  oppressed  with 
fears  lest  she  may  be  lost  with  all  their  supplies  ;  for  they 
have  been  here  now  five  days.  No  tidings  of  her  have  reach- 
ed them.  They  are,  however,  looking  out  on  the  sea  at 
the  close  of  the  fifth  day,  when  she  makes  her  appearance. 
She  has  mistaken  the  place  of  rendezvous,  and  lain  four  days 
in  a  small  bay  a  few  leagues  to  the  south. 

Being  relieved  thus  from  these  several  troubles,  they  begin 
to  clear  the  ground  and  erect  the  village.  The  Indians  con- 
tinue friendly  and  aid  the  work.  But  on  a  sudden  they  all 
disappear  for  a  whole  day.  Now  again  the  heart  of  the  Pa- 
dre beats  with  anxiety.  When  and  how  will  the  Indians 
return  are  questions  which  will  arise,  but  which  no  one  can 
answer.  Toward  evening  he  determines  to  go  in  quest  of 
them  with  only  one  soldier  and  an  interpreter.  He  finds  a 
few,  and  expresses  his  regret  that  they  should  forsake  him ; 
when  they  frankly  state  the  cause  of  their  movement,  as  fol- 
lows : — They  are  at  war  with  the  Guaycuros  ;  the  Padre  is 
friendly  to  the  latter,  and  has  soldiers  and  Indians  of  that  na- 
tion with  him.  They  have  watched  their  labors  and  see  the 
walls  of  the  church  go  up.  For  what  other  purpose  could 
these  be  mtended  to  answer,  than  a  warlike  one  ?  Moreover, 
the  Pad«:  has  that  morning  despatched  three  Guaycuros  on  the 


ii 


226 


•  OENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


open  road  to  La  Paz ;  and  the  ostensible  object  is  peaceful 
enough,  being  simply  to  drive  in  a  mule  laden  with  maize. 
Yet  they  are  suspicious  that  some  more  important  business 
lies  under  this  affair.     In  short,  they  believe  the  Guaycuros  are 
coining  to  massacre  the  whole  nation.     The  Padre  has  much 
diffic  ;lty  in  removing  this  suspicion  from  their  minds.     At 
length,  however,  he  so  far  recovers  their  confidence  that  a 
large  number  return  to  the  tent.     Others,  still  apprehensive, 
light  large  fires  and  keep  strict  watch,  that  the  supposed  ene- 
my may  not  fall  on  them  unawares.     The  night,  however, 
operates  unfavorably  on  their  feelings.     They  are  all  missing 
again  fcr  two  days.     They  look  upon  Padre  Bravo,  who 
speaks  the  Guaycuri  tongue,  as  the  head  and  front  of  their 
foes.     His  presence  keeps  their  fears  and  suspicions  continu- 
ally inflamed.     And  though,  when  the  mule  and  the  Guaycu- 
ros return  from  La  Paz,  they  see  that  Padre  Napoli  has  told 
them  truth,  still  they  cannot  so  far  quiet  their  fears  as  to  ve- 
turn  to  their  dwellings.     Thus  they  continue  between  hope 
and  fear  for  several  days.     Meantime  the  Padre  continues  his 
labors  at  the  mission ;  and  by  and  by  the  Indians,  finding 
their  fears  unfounded,  begin  to  come  in.     The  women  bring 
their  children  for  baptism,  and  the  men  offer  perpetual  friend- 
ship.    Peace  is  also  concluded  between  the  Guaycuros  and 
Coras  and  celebrated  with  the  usual  festivities. 

On  the  fourth  of  November  Padre  Napoli  baptizes  twenty- 
nine  of  their  children,  and  everything  -seems  to  promise  well 
for  their  intercourse  with  the  Indians.     But  as  almost  every- 
thing which  was  brought  from  La  Paz,  even  to  the  furniture 
of  the  altar,  has  been  distributed  among  them,  and  as  the 
supply  of  provisions  is  growing  short,  Padre  Napoli  finds  it 
necessary  to  evacuate  his  post.    He  accordingly  IcaA  es  the 
little  furniture  and  the  few  remaining  utensils  in  the  care  of 
some  o"  the  oldest  and  most  faithful  of  the  savages,  and  pro- 
mismg  a  speedy  return,  goes  with  Padre  Bravo  and  his  men 
to  La  Paz. 

In  January  he  returns  to  his  mission,  and  finds  that  during 


his  t 

islani 

neith 

ren, 

retur 

barb 

is  so 

he  c 

his  i 

how 

alii 

1 

grei 

the 

froii 

ly, 

fror 

cha 

est; 

farl 

sea 

toi 

the 

mo 

Du 

in 

in 

pr( 

Na 

foi 

mi 

de 

Str 

ta 

th 

qu 


;t  is  peaceful 
I  with  maize, 
tant  business 
xuaycuros  are 
dre  has  much 

minds.  At 
idence  that  a 
apprehensive, 
supposed  ene- 
ght,  however, 
ire  all  missing 

Bravo,  who 
front  of  their 
icions  continu- 
d  the  Guaycu- 
lapoli  has  told 
fears  as  to  le- 
between  hope 
e  continues  his 
Indians,  finding 
!  women  bring 
erpetual  friend- 
Guaycuros  and 

aptizes  twenty- 
to  promise  well 
;  almost  every- 
to  the  furniture 
em,  and  as  the 
e  Napoli  finds  it 
ingly  lca\  es  the 
in  the  care  of 
ivages,  and  pro- 
vto  and  his  men 

finds  that  during 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIF0RNIA8. 


227 


his  absence,  a  band  of  forty  depredators,  from  a  neighboring 
island,  calletl  Cerralvo,  has  visited  the  mission,  and  finding 
neither  Padre  nor  guard  in  possession,  killed  six  baptized  child- 
ren, two  women  and  one  man ;  and  taking  another  prisoner, 
returned  to  their  homes.     The  Padre  is  sad  at  this  unprovoked 
barbarity  upon  his  neophytes.     But  the  Captain  of  the  guard 
is  so  enraged,  that  accompanied  by  a  small  party  of  soldiers, 
he  crosses  to  the  island  to  chastife  the  savages.     They  flee  at 
his  approach  and  hide  themselves   among  the   rocks.     He, 
however,  kills  a  sufficient  number  to  intimidate  the  living  from 
a  like  attempt  in  future,  and  returns  to  the  mission. 

The  confidence  of  the  Indian  converts  in  the  Padre,  is 
greatly  increased  by  this  punishment  of  their  enemies.     Yet 
the  Padre  does  not  think  best  to  continue  his  mission  so  far 
from  La  Paz,  whence  all  its  supplies  must  come.     According 
ly,  he  selects  i.  spot  called  Santa  Anna,  situated  thirty  leagues 
from  La  Paz,  and  five  from  the  Gulf.     Here  he  builds  a 
chapel  and  small  house,  and  labors  with  much  success  for  the 
establishment  of  Christianity.     In   1723  he  builds  a  church 
farther  in  the  interior,  with  the  intention  of  making  it  the 
seat  of  his  mission.     But  an  unavoidable  accident  puts  an  end 
to  this  design.     For  when  the  church  is  so  far  finished  that 
the  beams  and  rafters  are  laid  for  the  roof,  the  Padre  is  sum- 
moned one  day  to  attend  the  deathbed  of  one  of  his  Indians. 
During  his  absence  one  of  the  terrible  tempests,  so  common 
in  Lower  California,  comes  up,  and  the  Indians  take  shelter 
in  the  unfinished  church.     The  storm  increases,  tiie  church  is 
prostrated,  and  several  Indians  are  buried  under  it !     Padre 
Napoli  hastens  to  the  spot,  and  does  everything  in  his  power 
for  the  relief  of  the  sufferers.     But  his  benevolent  acts  are 
misunderstood.     The  living  are  thoroughly  incensed  at  the 
death  cf  their  friends,  ana  begin  to  concert  schemes  to  de- 
stroy the  Padre.     From  this  they  are  at  length  dissuaded  by 
lae  repeated  assurances  of  the  survivors,  that  they  retired  to 
the  church  of  their  own  choice,  so  that  in  time  all  becomes 
quiet  again.    The  church  is  built  and  dedicated  to  San  Jago ; 


238 


80ENEB     IN    THE     PACIFIC. 


some  ground  cleared  and  sown  with  maize  ;  and  comfort  is  slow 
ly  increasing  among  lliem.  He  spends  tliree  years  among  thii 
slotliful  and  stupid  people,  during  wliich  time  he  baptizes  ninety 
adults,  and  about  four  hundred  children. 

The  Padres  have  now  for  many  years  sustained  a  limited  in- 
tercourse with  the  Cochlmies  of  Tierra  de  San  Vincente.  They 
have  frequently  expressed  a  strong  desire  to  have  a  Padre 
among  them  who  would  teach  them  to  become  Christians.  But 
DO  opportunity  has  offered  of  founding  a  mission  in  their  terri- 
tory, till  the  year  1727,  when  Padre  Juan  Baptiste  Luyando, 
a  Mexican  Jesuit  of  fortune,  arrives  at  Loretto,  and  offers  not 
only  to  endow,  but  to  be  the  founder  of  a  mission.  ITis  offers 
are  gratefully  accepted  by  the  Padres.  The  seat  of  the  mis- 
sion has  been  selected  by  Padre  Sistiaga  of  Santa  Kosalia 
Muiege,  during  his  frequent  visits  among  the  Indians  of  that 
vicinity.  To  this  spot,  therefore,  Padre  Luyando  travejs,  ac- 
companied by  nine  soldiers,  in  January,  1728,  and  arrives  on 
the  twentieth  of  the  same  month.  The  natives  having  been  ex- 
pecting a  Padre  for  some  time,  hail  his  arrival  with  much  joy, 
and  flock  to  his  tent  in  great  numbers.  Many  of  them  are 
already  acquainted  with  the  catechism,  and  nearly  all  have  re- 
ceived some  instruction  from  Padre  Sistiaga.  Padre  Luyando, 
tlierefore,  finds  his  task  comparatively  easy.  The  Indians  are 
very  readily  persuaded  to  destroy  all  their  implements  of 
sorcery  and  abandon  the  foolish  and  superstitious  arts  in  which 
they  have  placed  their  faith.  Some  of  the  Catechumens  re- 
turn to  tlifir  rancherias  after  receiving  baptism,  but  many 
remain.  The  Padre  has  about  five  Itundred  at  the  mission 
during  the  first  six  months.  At  the  end  of  this  time  his  pro- 
visions beginning  io  tail,  he  despatches  seven  of  his  soldiers 
with  letters  to  Loretto,  asking  supplies;  meanwhile  the  two 
that  ren)ain  together  with  the  Indians,  commence  building  a 
eliurch,  whic'i  is  finished  and  dedicated  on  Christmas  day. 
The  Padre's  heart  is  so  encouraged  by  his  success  that  he  not 
only  undertakes  the  iustructiou  of  all  who  come  to  him,  but 


lik 

ex] 

Til 

ha< 

we 

vcj 

So 

int 

hui 

otL 

qui 

yet 

to 

an( 

vill 

cat 

of 

tha 

bar 

pr( 

sec 


th 

CO 

na 
wi 
th 


e\ 
tl 
ui 
ci 
w 
n 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     0ALIFORNIA8, 


229 


nfort  is  slow 
[s  among  this 
iptizes  niuety 

a  limited  in- 
icente.    Tiiey 
lave  a  Padre 
'istians.     But 
in  their  terri- 
istc  Luyando, 
aud  offers  not 
in.     His  offers 
at  of  the  mis- 
Santa    Rosalia 
[ndiaus  of  that 
ido  travejs,  ao- 
aiid  arrives  on 
having  been  ex- 
with  much  joy, 
ly  of  them  are 
irly  all  have  re- 
Padre  Luyando, 
rhe  Indians  are 
implement''  of 
us  arts  in  which 
Catechumens  re- 
tism,  but  many 
at  the  missioD 
is  time  his  pro- 
of his  soldiers 
mwhile  the  two 
lence  building  a 
Christmas  day. 
ccess  that  he  not 
)me  to  him,  but 


likewise  makes  excursions  in  search  of  new  objects  on  which  to 
expend  his  labors. 

He  finds  all  his  people  docile,  kind,  vivacious,  and  active. 
Their  district  is  well  adapted  to  agriculture.  Padre  Sistiaga 
had  some  time  before  sown  maize  on  some  of  it,  wliich  yielded 
well ;  and  Padre  Helen  had  introduced  the  culture  of  garden 
vegetables;  for  all  of  which  the  Indians  have  ac(juired  a  relish. 
So  that  Padre  Luyando  has  little  difficulty  in  leading  tliem 
into  agricultural  pursuits.  He  plants  with  his  own  hands  five 
hundred  vines,  besides  olive  and  fig  trues,  sugar  canes,  and  many 
other  exotic  plants.  He  induces  the  Indians  to  sow  consideralile 
quantities  of  wheat  and  maize  annually ;  so  that  on  the  fourth 
year  of  his  residence  among  them,  the  whole  harvest  amounts 
to  a  thousand  bushels  of  wheat,  aud  a  fine  quantity  of  niaizo 
and  fruits.  He  also  persuades  them  to  form  themselves  into 
villages,  and  to  erect  adobie  and  bough-hou.ses.  He  introduces 
cattle,  and  makes  every  effort  to  create  among  them  the  desires 
of  civilized  life.  And  there  is  no  doubt  in  the  Padre's  mind, 
that  the  adaptation  of  their  country  to  the  pursuits  of  hus- 
bandry, will  greatly  facilitate  his  wishes  for  their  spiritual  im- 
provement. But  in  the  meantime  all  is  not  as  fair  as  it 
seems. 

The  old  jugglers  and  priests  of  their  former  religion,  so  lately 
held  in  great  respect,  see  their  power  aud  wealth  fading  under 
the  new  order  of  things,  and  themselves  becoming  objects  of 
contempt  to  the  younger  members  of  the  tribe.  It  is  not  in  the 
nature  of  civilized  or  uncivilized  man,  to  bear  such  a  change 
with  indifference ;  aud  these  men  resolve  to  use  what  influence 
they  have  left,  to  recover  their  rank.  Accordingly  they  insti- 
gate some  unconverted  Indians  to  oppose  the  Padre's  labors  by 
every  available  means.  On  a  dark  night,  therefore,  eight  of 
them  fall  upon  a  catechumen,  near  the  Padre's  cottage,  and 
murder  him.  After  this  outrage,  they  persuade  a  whole  ran- 
cheria,  at  some  distance  from  the  mission,  to  refuse  all  intercourse 
with  the  Padre.  In  this  neighborhood,  for  two  years,  bands  of 
malcoutcuts  shelter  themselves,  and  dissuade  the  people  from 


230 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC, 


yielding  to  any  advances  from  the  CliristianH.  And  wlien  at 
length  three  of  its  people  arc  baptized,  they  are  obliged  to  take 
refuge  in  the  house  of  the  Padre,  from  the  fury  of  their  disaflfect- 
ed  relatives. 

To  all  these  outrages,  the  Padre  makes  no  resistance,  and  for 
the  evil,  returns  love,  patience,  and  uniform  kindness.  Indeed, 
were  he  disposed  to  chastise  them,  ho  has  not  the  power.  His 
feeble  force  would  be  useless  against  an  active,  vigilant  and 
fearless  band  of  savages.  He  therefore  betrays  no  disposition 
to  punish  those  wrongs.  He  has  not  yet  learned  from  experi- 
ence, that  undue  forbearance  is  neither  wisdom  nor  virtue. 
Some  of  the  wild  unconverted  Indians,  therefore,  restrained  by 
no  fear  of  chastiscinent,  falling  upon  a  Cliristian  rancheria, 
murder  two  men  and  a  little  girl.  The  remainder  succeed  in 
escaping  to  the  mission.  The  Padre's  people  wish  to  avenge 
this  outrage,  but  he  restrains  them,  in  the  hope  that  forbearance 
may  yet  be  effectual  with  these  bad  men.  In  this  he  is  mis- 
taken. The  savages  concluding,  from  the  quiet  manner  in 
which  be  submits  to  their  treatment,  and  also  from  some  kind 
messages  and  presents  which  the  Padre  has  sent  them,  that  he 
io  helpless  and  fearful,  are  emboldened  to  attack  other  ran- 
cherias,  and  plunder  the  Christians  wherever  they  meet  them. 
These  last  outrages  awaken  in  the  Padre  a  determination  to 
prevent  their  recurrence.  Ho  assembles  his  converts,  and  with 
them  retires  to  Guadaloupe  for  safety.  Effective  measures  are 
now  taken.  Three  hundred  and  fifty  converted  Indians  are 
armed;  and  having,  by  the  Padre's  permission,  elected  their 
own  leader,  they  march  against  their  foes  with  great  spirit  and 
determination.  They  find  them  enca'mped  near  a  watering 
place  at  the  base  of  a  mountain.  During  the  night  they  suc- 
ceed in  surrounding  them,  and  at  day-break,  raising  the  war 
shouts,  advance  on  all  sides  upon  the  sleeping  enemy.  Finding 
themselves  thus  completely  hemmed  in  by  a  force  greatly  su- 
perior to  their  own,  they  lay  down  their  arms.  Only  two  es- 
cape. The  others,  thirty-four  in  number,  are  taken  to  the  mis« 
sion  as  pri<«ouers. 


tl 

s: 
V 


Liid  wlien  st 
J)liged  to  take 
lieir  dlBaffect- 

|tancc,  and  for 
ess.     Indeed, 
power.     His 
vigilant  and 
no  disposition 
from  expiri- 
in  nor  virtue, 
restrained  by 
laii    ranclieria, 
ler  suecced  in 
fish  to  avenge 
at  forbearance 
this  he  is  niis- 
liet   manner   in 
rom  some  kind 
t  them,  that  he 
;aek   other  ran- 
hey  meet  them, 
ietermination  to 
nverts,  and  with 
ive  measures  are 
ted  Indians  are 
n,  elected  their 
great  spirit  and 
lear   a   watering 
night  they  suc- 
raising  the  war 
nemy.     Finding 
orce  greatly  su- 
I.     Only  two  es- 
akea  to  the  mis* 


TRAVELS     IN      THE     C  A  .<  I  F  O  R  N  I  A  B. 


23 1 


When  thanks  have  been  duly  returned  for  this  signal  and 
cnsy  victory,  a  court  is  organized  from  the  soldiers  and  In- 
dian Alcaldes,  for  the  trial  of  the  prisoners.  They  are  con- 
victed of  the  capital  crimes  of  rebellion,  robbery,  and  murder, 
and  sentenced  to  be  removed  to  Loretto  for  punishment.  They 
are  very  much  dejected  at  the  prospect  of  death.  The  Indians 
of  the  mis.sion  are  elated  with  the  hope  of  bciing  permitted  to 
execute  them.  But  the  Padres  assure  the  prisoners  that  they 
shall  not  die;  and  reprove  the  unchristian  exultation  of  their 
people ;  instructing  them  that  as  Christians  they  should  exer- 
cise charity  and  fcigiveness  toward  all  men.  Meantime  some 
of  the  converts  are  so  gently  disposed  toward  the  prisoners  that 
they  beseech  the  Padres  to  convene  the  court  the  next  day, 
that  the  sentence  may  be  reconsidered.  The  Indian  converts 
now  come  before  the  soldiers  and  Indian  Alcaldes,  begging 
them  to  make  the  sentence  of  their  enemies  lighter.  After  some 
deliberation  it  is  commuted  to  a  certain  number  of  lashes.  The 
punishment  is  first  inflicted  on  the  principal  murderer.  The 
Padres  then  pray  that  it  may  be  confined  to  him.  This  is  most 
unwillingly  complied  with.  They  are  therefore  deprived  of 
their  arms  and  liberated. 

The  prayers  of  the  Padres  are  answered  in  the  efi'ect  which 
this  treatment  has  upon  their  enemies.  In  a  few  months  all 
these  prisoners  have  become  catechumens.  The  victory  and 
lenity  are  of  great  service  to  the  missionaries.  The  former  in- 
timidates the  unconverted  Indians,  the  latter  shows  the  excel- 
lence of  the  precepts  of  Christianity.  Padre  Luyando,  however, 
now  finds  his  health  so  much  impaired  that  he  must  leave  the 
nii«sion  to  recruit  his  exhausted  energies.  The  Indians  are  deep- 
ly pained  at  parting  with  him.  But  his  place  is  well  filled  by 
the  kind  and  active  Padre  Sistiaga. 

The  years  17"i9  and  '30  bring  heavy  misfortunes  on  the  mis- 
sions of  California,  in  the  death  of  two  of  the  oldest  and  most 
valued  laborers  among  them ;  Padre  Piccolo  and  Padro 
Ugarte.  Both  these  men  have  by  long  years  of  the  most 
arduous  and  faithful  service,  woven  their  names  inseparably 


9M 


SCENES     IN     THE     rACIFIO. 


with  the  history  of  California,  and  left  in  thoir  characters  and 
lives,  an  example  to  all  who  would  rear  the  cross  in  the  solitary 
wilderness.  Bold,  indefatigable,  self-denying,  just,  and  true 
men,  they  were,  who  never  shrank  from  any  duty,  however  se- 
vere, and  were  never  swerved  by  passion  or  love  of  ease,  from 
the  line  of  action  marked  out  by  judgment,  truth  and  religious 
faith. 

Padro  Piccolo  expires  in  the  garrison  at  Lorctto,  on  tho 
twenty-second  of  February,  1729,  having  lived  seventy-nine 
years,  twenty-two  of  which  he  has  spent  among  tho  missions 
of  California.  Padre  Ugarto  follows  him  the  next  year,  hiving 
been  thirty  years  a  laborer  on  tho  same  ground.  The  deaths 
of  these  excellent  men  are  momentous  events  in  tho  niis.'tionH. 
Their  great  experience,  their  uniform  kindness,  their  zeal, 
tempered  by  wisdom  and  sagacity,  their  unblemished  integrity, 
and  the  veneration  in  which  their  very  names  are  held  by  the 
Indians,  make  them  powerful  co-operators  with  the  young  and 
active  missionaries,  even  though  age  and  debility  forbid  them 
a  personal  participation  in  their  labors.  At  this  time,  too, 
their  presence  is  particularly  desired,  for  tho  southern  na- 
tions, never  much  relied  on,  are  growing  turbulent.  The  un- 
converted among  them,  and  there  -are  many  of  these  notwith- 
standing the  efforts  of  Padre  Bravo  at  La  Paz,  Padro  Napoli 
at  San  Jago,  and  Padre  Guillen  at  Dolores,  lose  no  oceasion 
to  insult  and  annoy  those  who  have  embraced  the  cross. 
They  become  so  trouble.some  that  in  1723,  Captain  Rodriguez, 
with  a  company  of  soldiers,  marched  into  their  districts,  to 
intimidate  them,  and,  if  possible,  put  an  end  to  their  outbreaks. 
In  1725,  also,  he  finds  it  necessary  to  go  with  an  armed  force 
against  some  rancherias  of  Uchities  and  Guaycuros,  who  have 
been  stimulated  into  rebellion,  by  a  few  mulattoes  and  mesti- 
zoes, renegades  of  foreign  privateers,  that  have  touched  at  Cape 
San  Lucas.  These  difficulties  will  ripen  into  fearful  scenes. 
Another  attempt  is  now  made  to  found  an  establishment  at 
Palmas  bay,  the  original  seat  of  the  mission  San  Jago  de  loa 
Coras.     It  is  endowed  by  the  Donna  Rosa  do  la  Penna,  cousia 


of 

to 

Al 

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of 

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Pn 
ed 
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pi 

sil 


aractcr!  and 
1  the  Bolitary 
8t,  and  true 
,  however  se- 
lf euso,  from 
aud  rcligioua 

rctto,  on  tho 
seventy-nuie 
tho  niiHsions 
t  year,  having 
The  deaths 
,  the  missions. 
8,   their   zeal, 
shed  integrity, 
re  held  by  the 
the  young  and 
;y  forbid  them 
this  time,  too, 
southern   na- 
ent.      The  un- 
these  notwith- 
,  Padre  Napoli 
lose  no  oceasion 
ced   the    cross, 
tain  Rodriguez, 
eir   districts,  to 
their  outbreaks, 
an  armed  force 
euros,  who  have 
ittoes  and  mesti- 
touched  at  Capo 
I   fearful   scenes, 
establishment  at 
San  Jago  de  los 
la  Penna,  cousin 


T 


TRi.VSLB       IN 


T  H  K       V   A  1.  I  K  O  3  N  I  A  8 


2J3 


of  the  Marquis  de  Ville  Pucnte.    This  iiulividuiil  also  otVert 
to  endow  a  third,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Cape  San  Lucan. 
About  this  time.  Padre  Josef  de  Echeveria,  the  Mexican  agent 
for  California,  is  appointed  by  the  papal  court,  Visitor  General 
of  the  Jesuit  missions;  and  he  resolves  to  commence  his  visi- 
tation in  California.     Purchasing  in  Cinaloa,  therefore,  a  bark 
to  supply  the  place  of  one  that,  with  a  year's  provisions,  a  few 
weeks  before  has  been  lost,  he  embarks  at  Ahome,  and  on  the 
twenty-seventh  day  of  October,  arrives  saf.'ly  in  Loretto  bay, 
where  he  is  received  with  great  respect  and  affection  by  the 
Padres,  and  their  Indians.     Soon  after  his  arrival,  he  is  attack- 
ed with  a  most  malignant  fever.     For  many  days  his  life  is 
despaired  of,  but  he  recovers ;  and  while  yet  very  feeble,  leaves 
the  garrison  for  the  northern  missions,  with  only  the  ensign, 
one  soldier,  and  a  few  Indians. 

The  Visitor  finds  great  cause  of   rejoicing  in  the  con- 
dition of  the  missions.     The  economy,  neatness  and  order  of 
everything  connected  with  them,  the  quiet  and  regular  con- 
duct of  the  Indian  converts,  and  their  progress  in  knowledge 
of  temporal  things,  the  patience,  kindness  and  industry  of  the 
Padres,  the  good  understanding  between  them  and  their  peo- 
ple, and  most  of  all,  the  progress  Christianity  has  made  in  the 
bosom  of  the  wilderness,  touch  the  Padre's  heart  with  the 
hveliest  joy.     In  a  letter  dated  the  tenth  of  February,  he  says, 
«  I  was  well  rewarded  for  the  fatigue  and  cold,  were  it  only 
in  seeing  the  fervor  of  these  new  Christian  establishments. 
And  the°least  I  could  do  was  to  shed  tears  of  joy  at  so  fre- 
quently hearing  God  praised  from  the  mouths  of  poor  crea- 
tures, who  very  lately  did  not  so  much  as  know  whether  there 
was  such  a  being," 

After  examining  the  missions  of  the  north.  Padre  Echeveria 
prepares  to  visit  those  of  the  south,  and  establish  the  two  mis- 
sions which  have  been  endowed  at  Palraas  bay  and  Cape  San 
Lucas.  But  death  and  ill-health  among  the  Padres  render  it 
impossible  to  carry  both  these  plans  into  execution.  Padre 
Segismund  Taraval  has  been  appointed  to  the  charge  of  the 


mA 


m.Ksy.H     IN     T  II  K     p  A  (•  I  r  I  c. 


forincM-,  called  Santa  Rosa,  in  honor  of  the  foundn'ss  ;  hutdocfl 
not  arrive.  And  it  is  determined,  therefore,  to  commence 
that  at  San  Lucas,  called  San  Jose  del  Cabo.  This  is  a  post 
which  requires  great  integrity,  zeal  and  address.  Padre 
Tamaral,  founder  of  the  mission  La  Purissima,  is  therefore 
chosen  to  fill  it.  This  Padre  and  the  Visitor  General  embark 
on  the  tenth  of  March,  and  visiting  on  their  way  at  the  mis- 
sions of  La  Paz  and  San  Jago  de  los  Coras,  proceed  to  San 
Lucas,  and  finding  an  agreeable  spot  a  short  distance  from 
the  Cape,  erect  a  chapel  and  houses ;  and  though  only  about 
twenty  families  present  themselves,  the  Padre  founder  enters 
upon  his  labors.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  Padre  Visitor  with 
his  two  soldiers  leave  the  spot,  they  come  in  great  numbers  to 
Padre  Tamaral,  assigning  as  a  reason  for  not  appearing 
sooner,  that  they  feared  the  Padres  had  come  with  the  soldiers, 
to  punish  their  assaults  on  the  missions  of  San  Jago  and  La 
Paz.  Padre  Tamaral  makes  a  journey  in  search  of  the 
rancherias  and  the  people  whom  he  is  to  teach,  and  also  of  a 
better  site  for  his  mission.  The  present  one  is  infested 
with  musquitoes  and  other  insects ;  the  dampness  and  extreme 
heat  also  render  it  intolerable.  On  becoming  acquainted 
with  the  country,  he  determines  to  remove  the  mission  to  a 
spot  about  five  leagues  from  the  sea ;  and  proceeds  at  once 
to  erect  a  chapel  and  houses  on  the  new  site.  He  labors  in- 
cessantly to  induce  the  natives  who  have  hitherto  led  wander- 
ing lives,  to  settle  in  fixed  habitations ;-  and  so  successful  is  he, 
that  in  one  year  he  has  instructed  and  baptized  one  thousand 
and  thirty-six  souls ;  and  so  far  as  their  indolent  roving  cha- 
racter will  permit,  has  bettered  their  temporal  welfare. 

In  the  year  1730,  Padre  Tamaral  undertakes  to  survey  the 
islands  which  lie  near  the  Pacific  coast.  Accompanied  by  six 
Indians,  he  sets  out  on  the  festival  of  San  Xavier,  and  after 
travelling  six  days  by  land,  reaches  one  of  the  capes  or  head- 
lands of  a  large  bay,  which  he  calls  San  Xavier.  From  this 
point  they  see  two  islands,  lying  some  seven  or  eight  leagues 
from  the  coast,  which  they  determine  to  visit.    Accordingly 


I 


I 

II 
II 

V 

1 
(1 
b 
ii 
fi 
I 

It 
bi 
T 
It 
e: 
Ir 
isl 
is 


JL. 


TRi.TKI.«       IN       ■'■"E       C  AL.VOUN  I  A«, 


2:rt 


ss  ;  but  (loci 

coinini'iice 
his  is  a  post 
ress.     Padre 
is  therefore 
leral  embark 
at  the  rais- 
oceed  to  San 
listance  from 
rh  only  about 
bunder  enters 
re  Visitor  Awith 
eat  numbers  to 
lot   appearing 
Ih  the  soldiers, 
1  Jago  and  La 
search  of  the 
ti,  and  also  of  a 
one  is  infested 
ess  and  extreme 
ing   acquainted 
he  mission  to  a 
roceeds  at  once 

He  labors  in- 
erto  led  wander- 
» successful  is  he, 
ed  one  thousand 
ilent  roving  cha- 
il  welfare, 
kes  to  survey  the 
icompanietl  by  six 
Xavier,  and  after 
he  capes  or  head- 
ivier.     From  this 
n  or  eight  leagues 
sit.     Accordingly 


having  constru.le.1  a  raft  of  timber,  they  pass  over  to  the 
nearest  on.,  and  iiud  it  a  small  desert,  not  moie  than  hull  a 
mile  in  length,  and  less  in  width.     It  is  a  bank  of  dry  .-.and, 
with  neilher  a  drop  of  water,  nor  a  leaf  of  verdure  upon  it. 
It  is  called  by  the  Indians  Asegua,  on  account  of  the  inun.  rise 
floiks  of  birds  which  frequent  it.     Among  these  is  a  small  jet 
black  bir.l,  something  larger  than  a  sparrow,  which  burrows 
in  the  sand,  am  makes  its  nest  some  four  feet  below  the  sur- 
face, retiring  to  it  at  night  only,  and  living  all  day  in  the  sea. 
There  is  another  bird  quite  unlike  any  known  to  the   I'adrc. 
It  is  about  the  size  of  a  goose,  with  black  wings,  a  snowy 
breast,  and  light-colored  feet,  and  a  beak  like  the  carnivora. 
This  also  makes  its  nest  three  or  four  feet  below  the  surface 
It  is  a  lover  of  storm  and  tempest,  and  never  retires  to  its  nest 
except  when  the  sea  is  calm.     These  birds  are  hunted  by  the 
Indians  for  food.     About  four  or  five  leagues  distant  from  this 
island,  lies  another,  called  by  the  Indians  Amalgua,  or  fog 
island.     It  is  several  leagues  in  circumference,  and  of  a  tri- 
angular form.     In  its  midst  rises  a  conical  mountain  of  con- 
siderable height.     It  has  several  fresh-water  springs ;  but  no 
anchorage  protected  from  the  sea.     Deer  and  rabbits  live 
upon  it.     Among  the  latter  is  a  small  black  species  with  fur 
finer  than  that  of  the  beaver.     It  is  frequented  by  a  variety 
of  birds,  and  sea-wolves,  on  which  its  inhabitants  chiefly  sub- 
sist.    They  find  also  a  fruit  here  called  mexcales,  which  is 
juicy  and  very  pleasant.     A  variety  of  beautiful  shells  lie  on 
the  shore  ;  some  of  an  exquisite  azure  hue.     From  the  top  of 
the  mountain  on  this  island,  the  explorers  have  a  view  of 
two  other  small  ones,  eight  or  ten  leagues  to  the  westward 
There  are  also  in  the  bay  of  San  Xavier  three  other  small 
idlands,  which  are  frequented  by  the  sea-wolf  and  beaver 
Farther  northward  they  discover  others,  which  they  conjecture 
to  be  those  that  form  the  channel  of  Santa  Barbara.     Thev 
can  obtain  no  information  respecting  these  latter  from  the 
people  of  Amalgua.     For  they  inform  the  Padre  that  their 


236 


SCENES 


N       THE       PACIFIC. 


sorcerers  have  prohibited  them  all  intercourse  with  tneir  in- 
habitants,  and  even  the  privilege  of  looking  toward  their. 
The  Padre  finds  no  difficulty  in  persuading  the  people  of 
Amalgua  to  accompany  him  to  the  mission.  The  only  oppo- 
sition arises  from  an  old  sorcerer.  But  his  influence  efl'ects 
nothing.  Even  his  own  wife  proposes  to  leave  him  if  he  will 
not  go  with  them.  And  he  also  finally  consents.  They  em- 
bark, therefore,  on  their  raft  for  the  coast ;  but  are  obliged  to 
seek  shelter  from  a  storm,  on  the  dt3ert  island  of  Asegua,  and 
remain  there  several  days.  With  the  return  of  fair  weather, 
they  put  oflf  again  for  the  continent.  As  they  are  floating 
along  close  in  shore,  they  discover  some  sea-wolves  disporting 
themselves  on  a  sand  bank ;  and  the  sorcerer,  anxious  to  vent 
his  ill-humor  upon  something,  and  being  a  dexterous  swim- 
mer, plunges  into  the  water  for  the  purpose  of  killing  one  of 
the  animals.  They  all  flee  at  his  approach ;  but  in  attempt- 
ing to  return  to  the  raft  he  is  seized,  in  sight  of  the  whole 
cc  .npany,  by  an  enormous  shark !  By  some  extraordinary 
feat,  however,  he  clears  himself;  and,  not  satisfied  with  this, 
throws  the  blood,  which  issues  from  his  wounds,  at  the  hun- 
gry fish !  He  is  seized  a  second  time  with  a  hold  not  so 
shaken  off.  The  exasperated  fish  goes  down  with  him ;  and 
no  trace  of  his  existence  is  left,  except  a  faint  red  tinge  which 
slowly  rises,  and  fades  into  the  deep  green  of  the  sea  ! 

Padre  Tar  aval  now  receives  orders  from  the  Visitor  General 
to  proceed  at  once  to  the  erection  of  his  new  mission  among 
the  Coras,  at  Palmas  bay.  It  is  particularly  desirable  that  it 
shall  go  into  early  operation.  For  the  continual  presence  of 
the  Padres  is  indispensable  to  keep  these  turbulent  and 
deceitful  people  in  subordination.  All  preparation  being 
therefore  speedily  made,  Padre  Taraval  travels  from  Loretto 
to  the  bay  of  La  Paz,  thence  to  the  mission  of  San  Jago, 
at  Palmas  bay,  and  founds  his  mission  on  the  old  site 
of  San  Jago.  He  finds  his  people  somewhat  advanced 
by  the  former  efforts  of  Padre  Napoli,  and  the  visits  which 
they  have  received  from  Padres   Carranco  and    Tamaral. 


it 

as 
no 
ba 

BU( 

ris 


A] 

I 

ft 

\ 

r 
t 


ha| 

ni(j 


b| 

01 


L 


TRAVELS     IN     THE      JALIFORNIAS. 


237 


Ivith  tneir  in- 
ward their, 
le  people  of 
le  only  oppo- 
luence  eflec-ts 
Ihim  if  he  will 
They  em- 
Jare  obliged  to 
f  Asegua,  and 
fair  weather, 
y  are  floating 
Ives  disporting 
nxious  to  vent 
xterous  swim- 
killing  one  of 
)ut  in  attempt- 
it  of  the  whole 
:  extraordinary 
lisfied  with  this, 
ids,  at  the  hun- 
a  hold  not  so 
with  him ;  and 
red  tinge  which 
the  sea ! 
Visitor  General 
mission  among 
iesirable  that  it 
ual  presence  of 
turbulent  and 
?paration  being 
els  from  Loretto 
on  of  San  Jago, 
n  the    old   site 
jwhat  advanced 
the  visits  which 
and    Tamaral. 


Nevertheless,  be  meets  with  so  much  violent  opposition,  that 
it  requires  all  his  address  to  advance  his  objects  in  such  manner 
as  not  to  arouse  these  Indians'  malevolence.  But  he  succeeds, 
not  only  in  bringing  a  great  part  of  the  unconverted  to  seek 
baptism,  but  also  in  winning  their  confidence  and  affection  to 
■uch  a  degree,  that  at  a  future  period  they  save  his  life  at  the 
risk  of  their  own. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

A  Rebellion  attempted — Arrival  from  the  Seas — The  Sick— Departure— ^ 
Disaffection  among  the  Indians — Insiirrect'on — Fearful  Times — 
Martyrdom  of  Padres  Carranco  and  Tamaral — All  the  Missions  in  a 
State  of  Revolt — The  Padres  retire  to  Lc-etto— Aid  denied  by  the 
Viceroy — It  comes  from  the  Indians  themselves — The  Missions  in  the 
North  send  Delegates  to  the  Padres — Peace  made  and  Padres  resume 
their  Labors — Southern  Missions  Recovered — Indians  reduced  to 
Subjection — Condition  of  the  Conquest  in  1745. 

Meantime,  in  the  winter  of  1733-4,  some  signs  of  revolt 
have  appeared  in  the  missions  San  Jago  and  San  Josef.  The 
chief,  called  Boton,  the  offspring  of  an  Indian  and  a  negro,  a 
most  profligate  mulatto,  who  has  been  reproved  by  the  Padre 
Carranco,  for  some  of  his  excesses,  and  afterward  continuing 
in  the  same  practices,  has  been  punished  publicly,  allies  him- 
self with  another  mulatto,  named  Chicori,  belonging  to  the 
mission  San  Josef,  whom  the  Padre  has  also  chidden  on  ac- 
count of  similar  vices.  These  miserable  men  seek  revenge. 
Accordingly  they  excite  the  unfriendly  Indians  in  every  possi- 
ble way  to  an  outbreak  at  San  Jago.  Padre  Tamaral  bearing 
of  this,  and  unsuspicious  that  the  like  is  growing  in  his  own 
mission,  hastens  to  San  Jago  to  assist  Padre  Carranco  in 
quelling   the    diflBcuIties.      Boton  being   absent  when   he  ar- 


1 


238 


SCENES    IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


rives,  little  disposition  exists  among  the  Indians  to  persist;  and 
Padre  Tamaral  proposes  to  return  to  his  own  mission.  But 
he  is  informed  by  a  friendly  Indian  that  Bototi  and  Cliicori, 
with  two  bodies  of  men,  are  stationed  on  his  route,  to  kill 
him.  Being  satisfied  of  the  truth  of  this  report  by  men  dis- 
patched to  reconnoitre,  the  Padre  sends  to  his  catechumens  at 
San  Josef,  to  arm  themselves  and  go  in  quest  of  the  enemy. 
These,  faithful  to  their  teacher,  put  them  to  flight,  burn  their 
dwellings,  and  escort  the  Padre  home  in  peace  and  triumph. 
The  leaders  of  the  rebellion  now  come  in,  and  beg  for  peace.  It 
is  concluded  in  1734,  with  the  great  rejoicings  of  both  parties. 
When  all  is  settled,  the  Indians  confess  their  intention  to  have 
murdered  all  the  missionaries  in  the  country.  A  few  days  after 
this,  some  Indians  who  have  been  fishing  oiT  Cape  San  Lucas, 
come  running  to  the  mission  with  much  joy  and  wonder  express- 
ed in  their  countenances,  and  inform  the  Padre  that  a  large 
ship  is  near  the  Cape,  standing  directly  toward  tlie  bay  San 
Barnabe.  The  Padre  sends  a  young  man  of  Loretto  to  ascer- 
tain wliat  this  report  means,  and  soon  learns  that  a  Phili])piue 
galleon  has  come  to  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  has  sent  a  party  of 
armed  men  asI\ore  for  water.  Tiie  mariners  of  this  vessel  are 
much  rejoiced  to  hear  that  a  mission  has  been  erected  in  the 
neighborhood;  and  inform  the  good  Padre  that,  besides  their 
want  of  water,  they  are  so  dreadfully  afflicted  with  tlie  scurvy 
tliat  ihey  require  his  kindest  attentions.  Tlie  Padre,  tlierefore, 
orders  his  Indians  to  collect  fresh  acid  fruits  and  convey 
them  on  board.  At  tlie  same  time  he  directs  the  greatest 
part  of  the  cattle  to  be  driven  down  for  the  use  of  the 
afflicted  mariners,  encourages  the  Indians  to  assist  them  in 
filling  their  water  vessels,  and  otherwise  shows  them  every  at- 
tention within  his  power  to  bestow.  Under  such  treatment,  all 
the  sick  speedily  recover,  except  three.  These  are  more  dis- 
eased than  the  others;  and  accordingly,  when  the  ship  is  ready 
to  sail,  they  are  invited  to  remain  at  the  mission.  Tlicir 
names  are,  Don  Josef  Francisco  de  Baytos,  Captiin  of  Ma- 
rines, Don  Antonio  de  Herrera,  boatswain,  and  the  Most  llev. 


ot 
ar 
Hi 
di 


wi 

P' 
of 

ol. 

fr. 


L 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


239 


persist;  and 
lission.     But 
and  Olilcori, 
■oute,  to   kill 
•t  by  men  dis- 
itecbumcus  at 
)f  the  enemy, 
lit,  bum  tbeir 
and  triumph, 
for  peace.     It 
■  both  parties, 
ention  to  have 
few  days  after 
ipe  San  Lucas, 
?oiider  exprcss- 
B  that  a  large 
I  the  bay  San 
oretto  to  asccr- 
lat  a  Philippine 
scut  a  party  of 
this  vessel  are 
erected  in  the 
t,  besides  their 
with  the  scurvy 
'adre,  therefore, 
lits   and  convey 
cts  the  greatest 
the   use  of  the 
assist  them  in 
them  every  at- 
ch  treatment,  all 
se  are  more  dis- 
the  ship  is  ready 
mission.     Tlioir 
Captain  of  Ma- 
id the  Most  llev. 


Domingo  de  Horbigoso,  of  the  order  of  San  Augustine.  They 
are  commended  to  Padre  Tamaral,  by  Captain  Do..  Goron.n.o 
Montero,  and  the  Padre  Commissa.-y,  Matthias  do  Ibarra. 
The  Captain  inforn.s  Padre  Tamaral  that  the  galleon  will  al- 
ways put  in  here  for  water  and  the  recovery  of  the  sick;  and 
desires  that  a  supply  of  cattle  may  be  kept  on  band  for  thein. 
This  the  Padre   promises,  and  the  galleon  weighs  anchor  ior 

Acapulco.  .    .  , 

The  Padre  takes  his  three  patients  to  the  miss.on,  and  de- 
votes his  tendcrest  skill  and  assiduity  to  their  recovery.     Every 
luxury  or  delicacy  the  region  affords  is  kept  exclusively  for  the.r 
comfort.     He  sends  to  the  neighboring  missions  for  the  best  of 
their  stores,  and  gives  them  his  own  food  to  eat.     In  a  word,  he 
spares  no  self-denial  or  care  for  their  benefit ;  and  has  the  plea- 
sure of  seeing  them  all  recover.     But  the  boatswain  is  attacked 
by  another  disease,  which  proves  fatal,  and  is  buried  with  proper 
solemnity,  in  the  little  church.     In  the  follo-ang  April,  Cap- 
tain  Baytos  and  Padre  Horbigoso,  being  entirely    recovered, 
leave  San  Josef  for  Mexico,  in  a  vessel  which  has  come  up  from 
La  Paz  for  that  purpose. 

The   Padre    missionaries   continue  their   labors;    patiently 
hoping  that   these   miserable  Indians   will,  in    time,  come   to 
such  a  state  of  comfort  as  shall,  in  some  measure,  compensate 
them  for  their  efforts.     In  the  summer  of  1734,  Padre  G.n-don, 
of  La  Paz,  goes  to  Lorctto  to  hasten  the  supplies  for  his  own 
and    the  other  missions   of  the   south.     Don   Manuel  Andres 
Romero,  who   superintends  the   mission    during    his    absence, 
discovers   some   disaffection   among   the   Indians.      It   seems, 
however,   easily    allayed.     They    appear   happy   and  tranquil. 
Jut   under  this  appearance,  a   most   sanguinary   spirit   is   at 
work  '     The  Indians  are  becoming  weary  of  the  restraint  im- 
posed on  their  beastly   propensities  by  the  presence  and  rule 
o*^  the  Padres.     The  greatest  trial,  is  the  abrogation  of  their 
oid   laws,    permitting   polygamy.      They   are   also    prevented 
fro.n  entering  into  those  bloody  wars  which  have  so  long  been 
their   principal  pastime;  and   from    seeking  revenge  on   those 


240 


«CENE8     IN     THE     PACIFIC, 


who  injure  thorn.  Altogether,  the  restraint  of  Chriglianity,  thf 
pergonal  malignity  of  Boton  and  Chicori,  and  the  defcncelegf 
state  of  the  missions,  encourage  these  ignorant  savages  to  at 
tempt  a  revolt  and  the  butchery  uf  those  \?honi  they  esteem  theii 
oppressors.  It  must  not  be  understood  that  there  are  none 
among  the  converted  to  oppose  so  wicked  a  step,  and  abide  by 
their  spiritual  fathers  through  all  the  troubles  which  follow. 
On  the  contrary,  large  numbers  feel  the  deepest  grief  and  shame 
at  the  conduct  of  their  countrymen.  But  only  a  small  portion 
of  all  the  natives  have  ever  professed  Christianity.  So  that  if 
none  of  these  are  unfaithful,  the  majority  will  be  greatly  in 
favor  of  the  rebels. 

The  insurgents  find  some  difficulty  in  concocting  their  plains. 
Their  only  fear  is  lest  the  arms  of  the  soldiers  shall  do  better 
execution  than  their  own.  And  although  among  the  four  mis- 
sions of  Santa  Rosa,  La  Paz,  San  Jago  and  San  Josef,  tiiere 
are  but  seven,  two  of  whom  arc  invalids,  they  turn  their  first 
attention  to  disposing  of  them.  Tiio  first  act  of  violence,  there- 
fore, is  the  murder  of  one  of  Padre  Taraval's  soldiers,  whom 
they  fall  upon  wlien  alone  and  unarmed,  at  some  distance  from 
the  mission.  They  next  repair  to  the  Padre,  and  inform  him 
that  the  man  is  suddenly  taken  very  ill  in  the  woods,  and  de- 
sires him  to  come  to  his  relief.  Tlie  Padre,  having  received 
some  vague  hints  of  the  rising  ditticulties,  suspects  all  is  not 
right;  and  on  questioning  tliem  closely,  concludes  from  their 
confused  manner,  that  they  have  murdered  the  man,  and  intend 
to  draw  him  from  the  house  alone  for  the  same  bloody  pur- 
pose. He  therefore  declines  going  or  sending  a  second  sol- 
dier ;  but  does  not  in  any  other  way  show  suspicion  or 
fear.  In  a  few  days  this  murder  is  followed  by  that  of  Don 
Andres  Romero,  at  La  Paz.  This  remains  some  time  a  secret 
among  the  perpetrators;  so  that  they  are  encouraged  by  these 
suc(('sses  to  more  open  demonstrations  in  the  district  of  Sau 
Jago  j  all  which  the  Ppdre,  from  his  defencelesH  condition  and 
Ihs  desire  to  avoid  provoking  tlie  Indians,  suffers  to  pass  7it'' 
out  notice. 


di 

se 

ph 

co: 

ni( 

to 

an 

to 

vai 

for 

fin 

not 

to 

poi 

of 

sol 

leaj 

wh( 

J 

Gu 

ly 

Bu 
froJ 
the] 
Ori 
whj 
briJ 
fori 
senl 
Jof 
iniJ 


L 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


241 


IhriBlianity,  thf 
the  defencclesf 

savages  to  at 
ley  esteem  theii 
there  arc  none 
p,  and  abide  by 
8  which  follow, 
grief  and  shame 

a  small  portion 
lity.  So  that  if 
,11  be  greatly  in 


ting  their  plains. 
I  shall  do  better 
\!t  the  four  mis- 
San   Josef,  there 
turn  their  first 
violence,  there- 
soldiers,  wlioui 
ine  distance  from 
,  and  inform  him 
e  woods,  and  de- 
I,  having  received 
uppects  all  is  not 
eludes  from  their 
e  man,  and  intend 
same  bloody  pur- 
ling a  second  sol- 
how   suspicion   or 
1  by  that  of  Don 
some  time  a  seoro^^ 
Bouraged  by  these 
be  district  of  Sau 
eless  condition  and 
ififers  to  pass  7it'' 


About  this  time  Padre  Tamaral  is  attaclted  with  a  dangernis 
disease;  and  being  alone  with  the  Indians  of  his  mission,  ho 
sends  for  a  soldier  from  Loretto  to  act  as  guard,  nurse  and 
physician.  This  soldier,  after  his  arrival  at  San  Jago,  becomes 
convinced  that  danger  broods  among  the  savages.  He  commu- 
nicates his  thoughts  to  Padre  Tamaral,  and  offers  to  carry  him 
to  La  Paz.  But  the  latter  thinks  his  fear  magnifies  the  danger, 
and  refuses  to  go.  The  soldier  declares  ho  will  not  stay  there 
to  die  at  the  hands  of  bloodthirsty  Indians ;  but  he  cannot  pro- 
vail  upon  the  Padre  to  accompany  him.  lie  leaves  him,  there- 
fore, and  goes  directly  to  La  Paz.  As  usual,  on  his  arrival,  he 
fires  his  musket  at  a  certain  distance  from  the  mission,  to  giro 
notice  of  his  approach.  But  no  answer  is  made.  He  walks  up 
to  the  house.  All  is  silent  and  solitary  as  the  tomb !  A  rifled 
portmanteau,  some  broken  utensils  and  furniture,  and  some  drop  i 
of  blood  on  the  floor,  tell  a  story  which  thrills  the  breast  of  the 
solitary  man !  He  hastens  on  to  Dolores,  a  distance  of  sixty 
leagues,  through  a  wilderness;  along  road  for  a  single  man, 
when  death  lurks  under  every  bush  and  tree  ! 

He  arrives  safely,  however,  and  immediately  acquaints  Padre 
Guillea  with  the  state  of  affairs  below.  The  Padre  immediate- 
ly sends  instructions  to  his  brother  to  withdraw  to  Dolores. 
But  close  upon  the  heels  of  the  previous  tidings,  follow  letters 
from  Padre  Carranco,  informing  him  of  an  insurrection  among 
the  Pericues,  and  requesting  instructions  how  to  proceed. — 
Orders  are  therefore  dispatched  for  all  to  repair  to  La  Paz, 
whithur  he  sends  a  canoe  and  seventeen  faithful  Indians,  to 
bring  them  to  Dolores.  But  the  letters  never  reach  the  hands 
for  which  they  are  written  !  At  tlie  same  time  Padre  Carranco 
sends  a  body  of  Christian  Indians  to  Padre  Tamaral  at  San 
Josef,  entreating  that  he  will  permit  them  to  escort  him  to  his 
mission  for  safety  and  counsel.  The  Padre  replies,  that  no 
signs  of  danger  have  appeared  in  his  mission ;  that  he  thinks 
fear  augments  small  things  to  great;  that  he  trusts  in  God, 
whom  he  desires  to  serve  in  life  and  death ;  and  does  not  think 
bis  condition  such  as  to  justify  him  in  forsaking  his  mission 


242 


SCENES      IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


The  Indiant)  who  have  been  sent  for  him,  on  thoir  return 
fall  in  with  a  party  of  rebels,  and  inform  them  that  Padre 
Carranco  is  made  acquainted  with  all  their  plans  by  the  boy 
who  lives  in  his  house.  They  therefore  change  their  design 
of  falling  upon  Padre  Tamaral.  It  is  deemed  more  important 
to  cut  off  Padre  Carranco,  in  order  to  prevent  his  giving  in- 
formation of  their  purposes,  or  calling  aid  from  other  missionb. 
They  communicate  their  plans  to  some  of  the  converted  In- 
dians of  San  Jago,  and  with  menaces  and  warnings,  invite 
them  to  join  their  party.  After  some  wavering  tbey  do  so ; 
and  the  whole  body  moves  toward  the  mission  to  take  the  lifo 
of  their  beat  friend  and  benefactor.  They  reach  it  between 
BIX  and  seven  in  the  morning,  on  Friday,  the  first  of  October 
1734. 

The  good  Padre  has  just  left  the  chapel  after  Mass,  and  is 
engaged  at  his  private  devotions  in  his  own  chamber.  They 
first  inquire  for  the  two  mestizos,  or  half-breeds,  who  tict  as 
the  Padre's  guard  ;  and  are  informed  that  they  have  gone,  by 
his  order,  to  drive  in  two  animals  for  the  use  of  the  mission. 
These  then  are  not  in  the  house  to  fire  upon  them.  Neverthe- 
less, conscious  of  criminal  intentions,  they  keep  at  u  safe  dis- 
tance and  send  in  messengers,  wiih  the  letter  of  Padre  Ta- 
maral. Padre  Carranco  is  on  his  knees  praying,  when 
they  enter.  But  be  rises  and  receives  them  affectionately ; 
expresses  his  surprise  that  Padre  Tamaral  is  not  come  with 
them ;  and  asks  if  they  bring  no  letter  ?  They  say  "  Yos," 
and  give  it  to  him.  The  Padre  begins  to  read ;  and  when  ab- 
sorbed in  its  contents,  the  whole  body  of  conspirators  rush  tu- 
multuously  into  the  house.  Two  of  them  seize  and  drag  him 
out  between  the  house  and  ihe  church,  and  there  hold  Lim  by 
the  gown,  while  others  stab  him  through  the  body  with  arrows ! 
And  while  his  blood  flows  from  the  wounds,  the  dying  Padre 
offers  most  earnest  prayer  to  God  that  He  will  accept  this 
sacrifice  of  his  life  for  his  own  sins  and  'Lbose  of  his  deluded 
Indians  I 


I 
whi 
woi 
seef 
dea 
Go 

AtK 

soni 

byi 

of 

are 

raiK 

a 

dial 

mar 

anic 

thof 

Jos 

voti 

him 

draj 

and 

H 

to 

dar 

cno 

aiK 

ma 

ter 

otli 

lar 

of 

vie 
tb( 


an 


thoir  return 
m  that  Padre 
ns  by  the  boy 
Ige  their  design 
ore  important 
t  his  giving  in- 
other  misaioDb. 
converted  In- 
ramings,  invite 
ing  they  do  so ; 
to  take  the  life 
each  it  between 
first  of  October 

tcr  Mass,  and  is 
hamber.  They 
ds,  who  uct  na 
ly  have  gone,  by 
3  of  the  mission, 
hem.  Neverthe- 
p  at  a,  safe  dis- 
er  of  Padre  Ta- 
i  praying,  when 
a  aflfectionately ; 
>  not  come  with 
hey  say  "  Yos," 
1 ;  and  when  ab- 
pirators  rush  tu- 
se  and  drag  him 
lere  hold  uim  by 
ody  with  arrows  1 
the  dying  Padro 
will  accept  this 
se  of  his  deluded 


TRAVELS     IN     THE      CALlFonNlAS, 


243 


After  the  wretches  sec  that  the  Padre's  life  is  far  spent,  they 
whip  him  with  sticks,  and  bruise  him  with  stones!  Ilia  last 
word  is  a  prayer  for  his  murderers  !  Meantime  one  of  tliem 
sees  the  boy  who  waited  on  the  Padre,  crying  bitterly  at  the 
death  of  the  good  man,  and  says  to  him,  "  Why  do  you  cry  ? 
Go  now,  and  tell  the  Padre  what  is  doing  in  tlio  ranehcrius!" 
Another  adds  Fcornfully,  "  as  ho  loved  the  Padre,  it  is  but  rea- 
sonable he  should  go  and  keep  him  company  ;"  and  taking  him 
by  the  feet,  they  dash  out  his  brains  upon  the  floor  and  walls 
of  the  house,  and  cast  him  into  the  place  where  otlicrs 
are  beating  and  stoning  the  cold  body  of  the  good  old  Car- 
runco. 

Tiie  uproar  of  these  infernal  proceedings  brings  together  In- 
dians of  all  ages  and  sexes.  Some  are  indignant  at  such  iniiu- 
manity ;  but  dare  not  interpose  to  stop  its  progress.  For 
among  the  murderers  are  some  of  the  principal  converts,  even 
those  who  have  been  sent  to  escort  Padre  Taniaral  from  San 
Josef;  the  very  men  who  joined  the  Padre  in  liis  morning  de- 
votions, are  now  sharing  the  rancor  and  fury  of  others  against 
him.  Some  are  heaping  wood  together  to  burn  him  ;  otliers  aro 
dragging  his  bloody  and  disfigured  body,  bristling  with  arrows, 
and  still  manifesting  signs  of  life,  toward  the  flaming  pile  ! 
Here  they  strip  him,  not  so  much  for  the  sake  of  his  raiment,  as 
to  heap  their  execrable  insults  upon  the  naked  body  of  him  who 
dared  to  reprove  their  infamous  bestialities  !  The  sliocking 
enormities  practised  upon  his  corpse,  their  revolting  scurrility 
and  lewdness  while  tramping,  shouting,  and  jeering  over  his  re- 
mains, must  not  be  written.  These,  and  all  other  parts  of  this 
terrible  tragedy,  show  that  the  new  doctrine  of  chastity  and 
other  Christian  laws  connected  with  tiie  wedded  state,  particu- 
larly that  which  forbids  a  plurality  of  wives,  are  the  chief  causes 
of  this  malignity  and  murder  ! 

And  now,  amid  savage  shouts,  outrages  and  dancings,  lasci- 
viousness,  shocking  pollutions  and  execrations,  they  raise  upim 
their  shoulders  the  body  of  the  venerable  Lorenzo  Carranco 
and   his   little   servant,  and   tumble  them   together  upou   the 


244 


SCENES     IN     THE     FACIFIC. 


funeral  pile  I  They  next  proceed  to  pillage  the  house  and 
church  I  The  clothing  and  such  furniture  as  they  can  use  they 
keep.  The  crucifixes,  the  statues  of  saints,  the  altars,  the  cha- 
lice, the  missal,  and  other  things  used  in  worship,  they  heap 
upon  the  burning  body  of  the  Padre.  Amidst  the  wild  exulta- 
tions which  accompany  this  act  of  contempt  toward  the  religion 
of  their  murdered  friend,  the  two  domestics  of  the  Padre  como 
with  the  mules.  Around  these,  as  fresh  objects  of  a  fury 
not  yet  exhausted,  they  gather,  and  bid  them  kill  the  ani- 
mals. No  sooner  have  they  done  it,  than  the  demon  crowd 
pour  a  shower  of  arrows  into  them,  and  while  still  shriek- 
ing in  the  agonies  of  death,  throw  them  upon  the  burning 
pile. 

After  perpetrating  these  cruelties  at  San  Jago,  the  murder- 
ers go  toward  the  mission  of  San  Josef  Their  number  is  now 
greatly  increased.  The  disaffected  from  all  the  southern  parts 
of  the  peninsula,  with  many  of  the  well-disposed  who  have  join- 
ed them  to  save  their  own  lives,  are  gathered  together.  This 
company  now  approach  San  Josef.  It  is  the  Sabbath.  Pa- 
dre Tamaral's  prayers  for  his  poor  benighted  flock  have  been 
offered  at  dawn.  It  is  now  eight  o'clock.  He  is  sitting  in 
his  house,  meditating  on  the  means  of  extending  his  useful- 
ness to  these  wretched  Califoruians,  when  a  party  of  the  sedi- 
tious, consisting  chiefly  of  the  Indians  of  his  own  mission, 
break  in  upon  him,  all  demanding  something,  in  order  that, 
being  refused,  they  may  have  a  cause  of  quarrel  with  him. 
Perceiving  their  design,  however,  the  Padre  replies  mildlj', 
"  Stay,  my  children,  there  is  enough  in  the  house  to  content 
you  all."  Being  thus  disappointed  in  getting  a  pretense  for 
resentment,  and  not  waiting  even  to  contrive  any  other  excuse, 
the  very  men  who  killed  the  Padre  at  San  Jago,  beat  Padre 
Tamaral  to  the  ground,  drag  him  by  the  feet  out  of  the  house, 
and  shoot  arrows  into  his  body.  After  this,  the  multitude 
rush  up  and  demand  that  his  throat  shall  be  cut  with  the  knife 
which  he  was  accustomed  to  use  in  giving  them  food.  This 
good  man,  like  his  brother  martyr,  prays  for  his  murderers ! 


A 

to 

bk 

sin 

wh 

tic 

tht 

inj 

of 

lai 

in 

vie 

lift 

thi 

Ca 

ha 

hie 

Th 

an 

it 

th. 

rii 

ne 

he 

at 

nc 

F 

al 

ci 


TRAVELS     IN 


THE     CALIFORNIAB. 


245 


le  house  and 

'  can  use  they 

tars,  the  cha- 

lip,  they  heap 

e  wild  cxulta- 

•d  the  religion 

le  Padre  conio 

cts  of  a  fury 

kill   the   aui- 

demon  erowd 

still   shriek- 

n  the  burning 

;o,  the  murder- 
umber  is  now 
southern  parts 
who  have  join- 
ogcther.     This 
Sabbath.     Pa- 
flock  have  been 
[c  is  sitting  in 
ling  his  useful- 
irty  of  the  sedi- 
8   own  mission, 
in  order  that, 
irrel  with   him. 
replies  mildly, 
3use  to  content 
;  a  pretense  for 
ny  other  excuse, 
ago,  beat  Padre 
)ut  of  the  house, 
!,  the  multitude 
ut  with  the  knife 
icm   food.     This 
his  murderers ! 


A  villain  approaches  him  with  the  knife.  He  implores  God 
to  save  the  sou!  of  him  who  is  about  to  slay  him  !  The  fatal 
blow  is  struck  !  The  dying  man  commends  himself  and  Ins 
sinning  flock  to  the  Great  Shepherd  of  the  human  race,  and 
while  uttering  the  name  of  the  Saviour,  expires  !  Thoy  prac- 
tice  more  abominable  insults  upon  the  body  of  Padre  Tan.aral 
than  they  have  upon  that  of  Padre  Carranco.  And  now  be- 
ing  relieved  from  the  fear  of  their  victims,  a  great  multitude 
of  all  ages  assemble,  and,  for  many  days,  celebrate  their  vil- 
lanies  with  that  most  brutish  licentiousness  with  which, 
in  the   time   of  their  infidelity,  they  used  to  solemnize  their 

victjOncs  ! 

The   delay   occasioned  by   these   infernal   orgies   saves   the 
life  of  Padre  Taraval  at  Todos  Santos.     A  boy  belonging  to 
this  village  happens  to  be  in   San  Jago  on  the  day  of  Pudro 
Carranco's  murder ;  and  while  the  rebels  go  to   San  Josef,  ho 
hastens  home  and  relates  what  he  has  seen  to  an  old  inan  of 
his  rancheria,  who  immediately  induces  him  to  tell  the  Padre. 
The  old  man  offers  to  convey  the  Padre  to  a  neighboring  island, 
and  with  his  friends,  die,  if  need  be,  in  his  defence;  but  thinks 
it  out  of  their  power  to  protect   him  at  the  mission.     While 
they  are  counselling,  the  boy's  narrative  is  confirmed  by  the  ar- 
rival of  some  Indians  belonging  to  Santa  Rosa,  who  have  wit- 
nessed  Padre  Tamaral's  martyrdom.     There  is  now  no  more 
hesitation.     To  stay  will  be  madness  ;  nay,  a  suicide,  which  can 
answer  no  good  purpose,  since  the  Padre's  presence  can  protect 
no  one  else.     Indeed,  there  is  little  if  any  danger  to  others. 
For  they  only  desire  to  destroy  the  Padres,  that  they  may  enjoy 
all  the   savage  liberty  of  butchery  and  vice,  which  thoy  exer- 
cised before  these  men  came  among  them. 

On  the  ni.rht  of  the  fourth  of  October,  therefore,  Padre  Tara- 
val  taking  with  him,  from  Todos  Santos,  the  furniture  of  the 
altar,  repairs  to  the  bay  of  La  Paz,  and  taking  all  the  orna- 
ments and  consecrated  utensils  of  the  mission  at  this  place,  goes 
on  board  the  boat  which  Padre  Guillen  has  sent  in  compli- 
ance with  Padre  Carranco's  request,  and  sails  for  the  Island 


246 


8CENK8     IN     TUG, PACIFIC. 


del  Spiiitu  Santo,  wliere  ho  fortunately  nioctH  another  boa( 
with  iirovirtions  and  (ruards  from  Lorctto.  With  tht'se  tiie 
good  man  hastens  to  Dolores,  in  order  to  prevent  tlie  savages 
from  executing  tiieir  bh)()dy  intentions  against  I'lidrt!  Guillen. 
He  arrives  safely,  and  finds  tiie  good  Padre  overwhelmed  with 
sorrow  at  the  fato  of  tlio  beloved  Carraneo.  Hut  his  grief 
knows  no  bound  when  lio  learns  that  Padre  Taniaral  has  fallen 
in  the  same  manner,  and  that  the  four  missions  of  San  J;igo, 
San  Josef,  Santa  liusa,  and  El  Pilar  de  la  Paz,  are  utterly 
ruined. 

While  this  melancholy  conference  is  being  held,  the  insur- 
gents, flushed  with  success,  rt^pair  to  the  village  of  Todos  San- 
tos, whence  Padre  Taraval  has  just  fled.  Their  rage  is  I'xtrtMno 
when  they  find  tiieir  intended  victim  escaped ,  they  vent  their 
disappointment  on  the  Christian  Indians  in  the  neighburhuod. 
Twenty-seven  of  these  are  killed.     The  rest  flee  I 

Having  now  no  common  enemy  against  whom  to  direct  their 
hatred,  they  fall  into  quarrels  among  themselves,  and  practice 
against  efich  other  the  same  treachery  and  cruelty  they  have 
shown  the  Padres  and  Christian  Indians  I 

Meantime,  Padre  Guillen,  as  superior  of  California,  on  the 
first  knowledge  of  these  outrages,  writes  to  the  Viceroy  of 
Mexico,  informing  him  of  their  losses,  and  the  danger  which 
threatens  them,  and  begging  immediate  measures  may  be  taken 
to  repair  the  one  and  remove  the  other.  But  his  Excellency 
estimates  life  and  missionary  eflfort  in  California  too  lightly,  to 
trouble  himself  much  with  the  good  Padre's  complaints.  He 
writes  that  he  is  sensible  of  the  dangers  to  which  they  arc  ex- 
posed, and  also  of  the  great  importance  of  the  missions  to  re- 
ligion and  the  King ;  and  that  he  will,  with  pleasure,  concur 
with  the  Padres  in  any  statement  which  they  shall  judge  proper 
to  be  made  to  their  sovereign  in  respect  to  them ;  and  will  use 
bis  utmost  interest  with  his  Majesty,  for  the  adoption  of  such 
measures  as  shall  tend  to  promote  their  prosperity.  He  adds, 
that  if  he  can  obtain  a  warrant  from  his  majesty  to  aid  them,  he 
will  execute  it  in  its  full  extent.     In  short,  the  Viceroy,  like 


man 

tren 
faitli 
but 
throi 
Ii 
viok 
rettc 
val, 
initti 
bold. 
it  pr 
previ 
tribe 
go  fc 
of  th 
from 
two 
alarr 
keepl 
pie 

tecti 

■ 

and 

ord( 

Lo 

Th 

re 

onci 

mi 

ger 

sue 

aga 

am 

the 


TRAVELS     IN     THE    CAL1FOBNIA8. 


247 


anotlior  bosl 
ith  tlu'Hi!  tlie 
it  tlu!  Hiiviigea 
'adri!  Oiiilli'ii. 
wlu'liiu'il  with 
But  his  firief 
iral  has  falh^u 
of  San  Jago, 
iz,  arc  utterly 

eld,  the  insur- 
of  TodoH  Sau- 
•a<'i!  is  oxtriMiio 
hey  viMit  tlieir 
neighborhood. 

to  direct  their 
3S,  and  practice 
lelty  they  have 

liforiiia,  on  the 
;he  Viceroy  of 
i  danger   which 
;8  may  be  taken 
t  his  Excellency 
a  too  lightly,  to 
ioniplaints.     He 
ich  they  arc  ex- 
3  missions  to  re- 
pleasure,  concur 
lall  judge  proper 
nn ;  and  will  use 
adoption  of  such 
lerity.     Ho  adds, 
,y  to  aid  them,  he 
the  Viceroy,  like 


many  modern  politicians  and  placemen,  says  much  that  is  ex- 
trcmcly  flattering  to  the  general  cause  of  missions,  and  of  the 
faithfulness  and  assiduity  of  these  missionaries  in  particular, 
but  docs  not  raise  a  hand  to  turn  the  assassin's  knife  from  their 

throats. 

In  the  meantime,  as  the  rebellion  increases,  and  some  signs  ot 
violence  appear  at  Dolores,  tlw  captain  of  the  garrison  at  Lo- 
retto  repairs  thither  with  some  soldiers.     He  finds  Padre  Tara- 
val,  from  whom  he  learns  the  cruel  murders  that  have  been  com- 
mitted at  Sau  Jago  and  Josef.     But  as  the  Indians  are  em- 
boldeued  by  their  successes,  and  his  band  is  very  small,  he  thinks 
it  prudent  to  remain  at  Dolores,  and  by  pres.Tving  order  there, 
prevent,  if  possible,  the  flame  from  spreading  to  the  northern 
tribes.     But  notwithstanding  all  his  precautions,  the  evil  tidings 
go  forth.     As  if  the  winds  of  heaven  served  the  wiiiked  purposes 
of  the  enemy,  they  spread  in  an  incredibly  short  space  of  time 
from  Cape  San  Lucas  to  San  Ignacio,  a  distance  of  more  than 
two   hundred   leagues,  and   infect  the  common  Indians  to  an 
alarming  extent.     But  the  chiefs  of  the  tribes  remain  firm,  and 
keep  the  Padres  informed  of  the  designs  entertained  by  the  peo- 
ple.    They  also  beg  to  be  participants  of  any  measures  for  pro- 
tection which  may  be  devised. 

Padre  Guillen  finding  affairs  grow  mor(>  and  more  desperate, 
and  no  assistance  adequate  to  the  emergency  offering  itself,  issues 
orders  early  in  the  year  1735,  for  all  the  missionuries  to  repair  to 
Loretto,  and  put  themselves  under  the  protection  of  the  garrison. 
These  orders  happily  are  acted  on  without  the  knowledge  of  the 
rebels,  till  the  Padres  are  beyond  their  reach.     Padre  Guillen 
once  more  addresses  the  Viceroy,  informing  him  that  all  the 
missions  are  forsaken,  and  that  they  are  still  in  imminent  dan- 
ger, even  at  Loretto— for  the  garrison  is  too  weak  to  contend 
successfully  with  such  a  body  of  savages  as  may  be  brought 
against  it,  should  there,  as  they  anticipate,  be  a  general  rising 

among  the  tribes. 

These  dispatches  are  sent  to  the  river  Yaqui,  in  Senora,  and 
thence  by  Indian  converts  to  Mexico.     They  arrive  on  the  thir- 


§49 


BCKNES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


teenth  of  April,  1735,  and  tho  Provincial  of  Now  Spain  imme 
diately  deliviTS  tlicni  to  the  Viceroy.  But  tliougli  he  urpc«  at- 
tention to  them  in  two  nieiiiDriiils,  prnyinj^  liim  to  eoiiBidcr  the 
ininiediato  danger  of  tho  I'lulren,  the  man  of  authority  refur.es 
to  do  anything  in  the  preiniHCS.  Tlie  Provincial  has  recourse  to 
his  Majesty.  A  whip  being  then  ready  to  sail  for  Madrid,  he 
forwards  to  Padre  (j-.spar  llodero,  agent  general  at  court  of  tho 
Society  of  Je'sus  for  the  Indian  ProvinccB,  who  lays  it  before  his 
Majostry,  and  prays  his  earliest  action  upon  it.  But  long  be- 
fore the  Hoyul  pleasure  can  be  known  in  the  New  World,  help 
has  come  to  the  litlle  baud  at  Loretto  from  the  seed  tlieir  own 
liands  have  sown.  / 

It  appears  that  as  soon  as  it  became  known  to  the  more  reflecting 
of  the  converts,  that  the  Padres  had  gathered  up  tho  eonsecratud 
utensils  of  the  churches,  and  departed  to   Loretto,  a  sense  of 
Bhamc  at  their  ingratitude,  and  a  conception  of  the  value  of  tlio 
Padres'  services,  forced  themselves  upon  their   stupid  minds, 
and  made  them  repent  their  want  of  fidelity.     Accordingly  they 
now  begin  to  act.     Reciprocal  messages  are  sent  through  the 
country  inviting  each  other  to  rendezvous  and  follow  the  Padres 
to  Loretto.     They  come  in  bauds  from  each  mission,  and  form 
themselves  into  a  long  procession,  the  head  men  of  San  Igiiacio 
bearing  on  their  shoulders  the  crucifixes  of  their  mission,  those 
of  Nuestra  Sonorado  Gaudaloupe,  the  crucifixes  of  their  mission, 
and  those  of  Santa  Rosalia,  the  crucifixes  of  their  mission  ;  and 
in  silent  sadness  move  on  to  Loretto,  enter  tho  fort  and  stand 
weeping  before  the  Padres'  dwelling !     They  say,  "  You  have 
baptized  us  ;  you  have  taught  us  the  name  and  worship  of  tho 
true  God ;  you  have  gathered  ua  from  tlie  dry  mountains  to  the 
watered  vales ;  you  have  made  us  believe  that  good  acts  alone 
bring  happiness ;  you  have  made  us  your  children  ;  will  you 
now  forsake  us  ?     We  cannot  live  as  we  did  before  we  saw  you ; 
we  do  not  want  to  die  in  the  crimes  of  our  dark  days !"     Thus 
they  reason  with  the  Padres.     "  It  is  not  just,"  they  say,  "that 
a  whole  nation  should  suffer  for  the  sins  of  a  few ;  especially 
when  the  mass  are  willing  and  able  to  deliver  the  criminal  to 


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or  iMiidriJ,  lie 
at  court  of  tlio 
^•s  it  before  \i'\a 
But  long  bo- 
w  World,  lu'lp 
HeoJ  their  own 


more  reflecting 
the  eonsccratuil 
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ic  vnluc  of  tho 

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Rcordingly  they 
nt  throufili  the 
How  the  Padres 
BHion,  and  form 
1  of  San  Ignacio 
r  mission,  those 
jf  their  mission, 
ir  mission ;  and 
)  fort  and  stand 


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iiountains  to  the 

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ore  we  saw  you ; 
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TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


249 


the  pnnishment  their  evil  deeds  merit."  With  one  voice  they 
promise  to  protect  the  Padres  in  every  emergency.  They  im- 
plore them  to  return ;  and  declare  tliat  if  they  refuse  to  do  so, 
they  also  will  remain  at  Loretto,  for  they  will  not  live  without 
them  and  their  religion  !  The  Padres  and  garrison  are  afiectod 
to  tears  hy  these  evidences  of  contrition  and  attachment  to  the 
faith.  They  delay  a  few  days  in  order  to  test  the  sincerity  of 
the  Indians,  liut  noticing  no  defection  they  repair  to  their  re- 
spective districts  and  are  receiTcd  with  tumultuous  joy  by  their 
people.  The  conspirators  arc  surrendered  :  some  of  them  are 
slightly  flogged ;  and  four  of  the  most  guilty  of  the  band  at 
San  Ignacio  are  banished  a  short  time  from  aM  the  missioQ 
premises. 

Tliis  submission  and  fidelity  on  the  part  of  the  Californians 
is  followed  by  a  most  gratifying  manifestation  of  sympathy  by 
the  Ymjuis  across  the  Gulf.  These  Indians,  always  noted  for 
their  honesty  and  bravery,  assemble  immediately  ui)on  the  re- 
ceipt of  Padre  liravo's  letter  detailing  the  condition  of  Califor- 
nia, to  the  number  of  five  hundred  warriors,  and  offer  to  go  and 
put  down  the  insurgents.  But  as  the  bilandcr,  wliicli  is  to  con- 
vey them,  can  take  only  a  fraction  of  that  number,  they  select 
from  among  themselves  sixty  of  their  best  warriors,  and  send 
them,  with  five  hundred  bows  and  arrows  to  arm  the  friendly 
Indians  of  the  peninsula  to  fight  in  their  stead. 

With  these  the  bilander  sails  and  lands  them  near  Loretto. 
Thence  they  march  to  Dolores.  Here  they  meet  the  commander 
of  the  garrison,  who  greets  them  with  the  warmest  expressions 
of  gratitude  for  their  generous  conduct;  but  informs  tbem  that 
traiKiuillity  has  been  restored  among  the  northern  missions  by 
the  Indians  themselves.  It  is  therefore  determined  to  divide 
their  strength  between  Loretto  and  La  Paz.  Accordingly,  a 
sufficient  force  having  been  left  in  the  former  place,  the  re- 
mainder start  in  two  divisions,  the  one  by  the  sea,  the  other  by 
land,  for  La  Paz. 

On  the  landing  of  the  sea  party,  the  strictest  military  dig' 
cipline  is  preserved.     This  precaution  proves  of  no  slight  sen- 


1 


250 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


vice.  For  the  lawless  and  still  bloodthirsty  savages,  attack 
th(;m  on  several  successive  nights  with  much  skill  and  fury.  A 
luw  arc  killed  and  several  wounded.  At  length  the  land  party 
arrives.  A  portion  of  these  being  mounted  on  horses,  which 
the  Indians  suppose  to  be  the  running  gear  of  irresistible  mon- 
sters topped  with  the  trunks  and  heads  of  men,  so  intimidate 
them  that  they  flee,  and  are  no  more  seen  by  night  or  by  day 
for  some  time.  At  length,  however,  a  few  re-appear  and  join 
the  Padres'  forces.  These  protest  that  they  have  always  been 
faithful,  and  have  consequently  suffered  much  from  the  insur- 
gents. They  declare  that  the  rebels  have  committed  some  re- 
cent atrocities  upon  the  crew  of  a  Philippine  galleon.  They  re 
port  the  affair  in  this  wise.  The  ship  arrived  there  from  Ma- 
nilla, with  many  of  her  crew  sorely  afflicted  with  scurvy ;  and 
as  her  signals  were  not  answered  from  the  mission,  the  captain 
sent  the  pinnace  ashore  with  thirteen  men  to  inform  the  Padre 
of  his  presence.  As  the  boat  neared  the  beach,  the  people  were 
surprised  to  see  neither  any  person  nor  sign  of  life.  The 
greater  part  of  them  landed  and  walked  toward  the  mission, 
but  on  their  way  the  armed  Indians  rushed  upon  them  and 
killed  every  man,  or  rendered  him  helpless,  on  the  spot  I  Hav- 
ing murdered  these,  they  hastened  to  the  pinnace,  and  finding 
tliose  who  were  left  in  charge  of  it  no  more  guarded  than  the 
other  party  bad  been,  dispatched  them  also.  They  then  seized 
the  pinnace  and  broke  it  up  for  the  old  iron,  nails,  spikes, 
&c.  While  all  this  was  going  on,  the  captain  of  the  galleon 
began  to  feel  some  anxiety  at  the  long  delay  of  his  pinnace, 
and  sent  a  band  of  armed  marines  in  the  long  boat  to  seek 
her. 

A  most  unexpected  and  painful  sight  met  the  eyes  of  these 
seamen  when  they  reached  the  shore.  Their  pinnace  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  swarm  of  leaping  and  furious  savages.  It  was 
already  reduced  to  fragments;  and  the  dead  bodies  of  several 
of  their  companions  lay  upon  the  beach,  trodden  on  and  man- 
gled by  their  ruthless  murderers.  Dreadfully  enraged  at  this 
sight,  the  mariners  and  soldiers  leaped  ashore  into  the  thickest 


of 
ar 

wc 

bo 

ag 
ni( 

nii 

ha 
coi 

tec 

slu 

rai 

fer 

coi 

sen 

sul 

hin 

to 

arc 

faei 

eril 

off 

del 

wij 

ni^ 
irill 

dm 

spj 

wi 

gel 

tol 

thi 


't 


ivages,  attack 
and  fury.  A 
the  land  party 

horses,  which 
•esistible  raon- 

80  intimidate 
ight  or  by  day 
ipear  and  join 
re  always  been 
rom  the  insur- 
litted  some  re- 
eon.     They  re 
here  from  Ma- 
th scurvy ;  and 
ion,  the  captain 
form  the  Padre 
the  people  were 
I   of  life.     The 
,rd  the  mission, 
upon  them  and 
the  spot  1     Hav- 
ace,  and  finding 
uarded  than  the 
Chey  then  seized 
»n,  nails,  spikes, 
n  of  the  galleon 
y  of  his  pinnace, 
»ng  boat  to  seek 

the  eyes  of  these 
pinnace  was  sur- 
savages.  It  was 
bodies  of  several 
dden  on  and  man- 
ly enraged  at  this 
B  into  the  thickest 


'•ymm^^' 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS. 


251 


of  their  foes,  and  gave  them  battle.  A  few  minutes  with  fire- 
arms settled  the  question  of  victory.  Some  of  the  villains  were 
wounded,  some  killed,  and  four  captured  alive  and  taken  on 
board  the  siiip.  The  narrators  saw  the  ship  leave  her  anchor- 
age and  stand  awuy  for  the  Pacific.  They  know  nothing 
more. 

It  soon  appears,  however,  that  the  Captain  left  port  without 
making  any  other  attempt  to  procure  water  or  provisions ;  and 
having  put  into  Acapulco,  sent  his  four  prisoners  and  an  ac- 
count of  the  murder  of  his  crew  to  Mexico. 

The  Viceroy  now  begins  to  appreciate  the  importance  of  pro- 
tecting the  missions   of  California.     The  lives  of  the  Padres  a 
short  time  before  could  not  be  preserved  without  a  special  war- 
rant from  Madrid.     But  as  liis  own  credit  at  Court  would  suf- 
fer from  the  representations  of  tlie  officers  of  the  galleon,  it  be- 
comes a  moral  duty  to  quell  the  insurrection.     Accordingly  he 
Bends  orders  to  the  governor  of  Cinaloa  to  go  over  to  the  penin- 
sula with  a  sufficient  body  of  men  to  restore  peace,  but  directs 
him  to  act  independently  of  the  Padres  and  never  in  subordination 
to  the  Cai)tain  of  the  garrison.     These  measures  of  the  Viceroy 
are  made  known  in  California,  and  Padre  Guillen,  in  order  to 
facilitate  their  execution,  despatches  the  bilander  for  the  gov- 
ernor and  his  forces,  and  at  the  same  time  directs  the  Captain 
of  the  garrison  to  repair  to  Dolores,  and  there  remain  on  the 
defensive  until  further  orders. 

In  due  time  the  bilander  returns.  The  governor  is  received 
with  great  respect  and  joy  by  the  Padres,  and  with  the  custo- 
mary honors  by  the  garrison.  He,  however,  soon  shows  that  he 
intends  to  reject  all  advice  from  the  former,  and  act  in  the  re- 
duction of  the  country  as  he  shall  think  proper.  He  therefore 
spends  two  years  in  mana>uvering,  and  attempted  '  j.j.dities 
with  a  fugitive  foe,  whom  he  knows  not  how  to  bring  into  a 
general  engagement.  At  the  close  of  the  year  1730,  he  is  obliged 
to  confess  that  he  has  efl'ected  nothing  for  the  suppression  of 
the  rebellion. 

At  this  time  the  Padres  lose  one  of  their  number— Padre 


252 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


Julian  de  Mayorga,  founder  of  tho  mission  San  Josfif  do  Com. 
uiondo.  lie  lias  ruled  his  mission  ever  since  its  origin,  1707, 
greatly  to  the  improvement  and  happiness  of  his  Indians,  and  in 
such  manner  as  to  win  the  respect  and  love  of  all  who  knew 
liim.  His  death,  therefore,  is  a  cause  of  deep  grief  to  his  bre- 
thren and  tlie  Indians  of  his  mission,  liut  while  they  lament 
for  themselves  that  ho  is  gone,  they  rejoice  for  him  that  he  rests 
from  the  turbulence  and  anxiety  which  have  been  the  portion  of 
all  for  the  last  three  years. 

The  governor  becoming  convinced  that  he  can  accomplish  no- 
thing on  his  present  plan  of  proceeding,  resolves  to  adopt  the 
Pudrc's  advice,  and  take  some  steps  which  shall  make  him  a 
terror  to  the  Indians.  Accordingly  he  sets  out  with  his  troops 
in  earnest  pursuit  of  tbem,  and  has  the  good  fortune  to  compel 
them  to  an  action  in  which  they  are  utterly  vanquished.  They 
have,  however,  been  too  long  successful  to  be  subdued  by  one 
defeat.  Instead,  therefore,  of  making  any  overt\ires  of  peace, 
they  defy  the  governor  and  provoke  his  wrath  in  a  series  of 
most  annoying  skirmishes.  He  accordingly  forces  them  to  a 
second  engagement,  in  which  they  are  again  put  to  rout.  Soon 
after,  they  submit  and  implore  his  pardon.  But  he  rejects  all 
their  advances  until  they  deliver  up  the  leaders  of  the  rebellion, 
especially  those  who  have  murdered  the  Padres. 

It  will  be  supposed  that  a  severe  punishment  was  inflicted  ou 
those  men.  But  the  policy  of  the  governor  and  Padres  in  Cali- 
fornia is  singularly  unlike  that  which  prevails  in  the  parent 
country.  Here  blood  is  never  shed  by  way  of  revenge  or 
punishment.  These  rebels,  thereforoi  who  have  perpetrated 
two  of  the  most  revolting  murders  on  record,  beside  the  more 
common  butcheries  of  their  own  countrymen,  and  the  crew  of 
tlie  galleon's  pinnace,  are  tried  and  banished  to  the  coast  of 
Mexico. 

On  their  way  over,  they  rise  and  attempt  to  take  the  bark. 
This  compels  the  mariners  to  fire  on  them  and  kill  more  than 
half  their  number.  Among  the  few  that  escape,  are  the  two 
whose  hands  shed  the  blood  of  the  venerable  Padres.     One  of 


TrtAVKLS      IN      THE      CALIF  ORNIAS. 


253 


1  Josnf  dfi  Com- 
its  origin,  1707, 
Indians,  and  in 
f  all  wlio  knew 
[rrief  to  his  bro- 
hile  tliey  lament 
lim  that  he  rests 
m  the  portion  of 

,n  acconipUsh  no- 
ves  to  adopt  the 
hall  make  him  a 
it  with  his  troops 
jrtune  to  compel 
mquished.     They 
subdued  by  one 
i^ertiircs  of  peace, 
ath  in  a  series  of 
forces  them  to  a 
)ut  to  rout.     Soon 
But  he  rejects  all 
rs  of  the  rebellion, 
es. 

jnt  was  inflicted  on 
md  Padres  in  Call- 
rails  in  the  parent 
vay  of  revenge  or 
I  have  perpetrated 
rd,  beside  the  more 
m,  and  the  crew  of 
;d  to  the  coast  of 

3t  to  take  the  bark, 
ind  kill  more  than 
escape,  are  the  two 
,le  Padres.     One  of 


1 

I 


these  two  is,  the  next  year,  killed  in  an  affray;  and  the  other 
falls  from  tho  top  of  a  palm  tree  upon  some  roeks,  and  is  so 
horribly  mutilated  and  torn  a.s  to  be  hardly  reeognizable.  The 
reuiaiiuliT  iievor  return  to  their  country.  Thus,  after  three 
years  of  trepidation  and  violence, peace  is  restored  to  California. 
And  it  is  cliicfly  attributable  to  the  prudence  and  forbearance 
of  the  Padres  that  tho  whole  peninsula  has  not  been  deluged 
with  blood. 

The  refusal  of  the  Viceroy  in  the  first  instance  to  protect  the 
missions  without  a  special  order  from  his  sovereign,  results  in  a 
commission  tVom  his  Majesty  requiring  him  to  erect  a  new  gar- 
rison at  Cape  San  Lucas ;  and  to  take  such  other  measures  as 
may  be  reiiuired  to  support  the  missions  and  maintain  the  con- 
quests of  tlie  Padres.  This,  like  all  other  efforts  of  that  nation 
ill  similar  matters,  is  made  when  the  utility  and  necessity  of 
action  is  past. 

The  Governor  of  Cinaloa,  however,  proceeds  to  the  execution 
of  the  order.  The  garrison  is  to  be  independent  of  the  Padres, 
and  of  the  commanding  officer  at  Loretto,  and  subject  only  to 
orders  from  the  Viceroy.  The  son  of  the  venerable  Captain 
Don  Estevan  lloderiguez  Lorenzo  is  appointed  to  the  command 
of  the  new  post.  He  is  a  native  of  California,  and  having  been 
brought  up  by  his  father  under  the  care  of  the  missionaries,  and 
being  pious,  brave,  prudent,  and  well  acquainted  with  the  coun- 
try, is  admirably  qualified  to  fill  the  office.  He  has  thirty  sol- 
diers under  his  command,  ten  of  whom  he  stations  at  the  new 
camp  of  San  Josef  del  Cabo,  ten  at  the  mission  of  La  Paz,  and  ten 
at  that  of  San  Jago  do  los  Coras.  The  young  Captain,  how- 
ever, is  noc  thouglit  to  act  with  sufficient  indifference  to  the  ad- 
vice and  opinions  of  the  Padres;  and  is  therefore  si  'n  dis- 
placed by  a  new  man  from  Mexico,  Don  Pedro  Alvarez  de 
Acevedo.  At  the  same  time  the  Viceroy  orders  an  accession  of 
five  soldiers  to  the  garrison  of  Loretto,  and  particularly  directs 
that  the  whole  force  shall  be  independent  of  the  missionaries. 
They  shall  act  as  an  escort,  indued,  during  their  journeyings 
but  while  so  doing,  shall  be  under  the  command  of  their  officer 


254 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


and  in  nowise  amenable  to  the  Padres  for  neglect  or  disoV-di- 
encc  ;  nor  shall  their  entrance,  discharge,  oi  payment  be  lu  any 
vay  supervised  by  them. 

The  disorder  and  iuconvenience  growing  out  of  this  regula- 
tion, very  soon  became  apparent.     The  missions  are  frecpently 
forsaken  by  the  guards,  the  Padres  have  much  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing them  as  escorts  in  their  visits  to  their  parishioners;  the 
Indians  are  frequently  oppressed  by  them  when  distant  from 
their  captain  ;  and  a  system  of  trading  and  chaffering  commences 
between  the  soldiers  and  Indians,  which  dissipates  much  that 
the  Padres  have  labored  to  establish,  and  seriously  neutralizes 
their  instructions  and  counsels.     So  much  evil,  however,  grows 
out  of  this  new  order  of  things,  that  at   the  end  of  eighteen 
months  the  Viceroy  abandons  it;  puts  the  new  garrison  under 
a  lieutenant,  subject  to  the  captain  at  Loretto,  and  makes  these 
officers  subordinate  to  the  Padres. 

As  soon  as  affairs  are  thus  established  on  a  firm  footing,  the 
Society  of  Jesus  appoints  new  missionaries  to  gather  the  dis- 
persed members  of  the  ruined  missions.     Meantime  his  Majesty, 
continuing  to  receive  advices  of  the  condition  of  California  both 
from  the  Viceroy  and  the  Society,  is  induced  not  only  to  order 
a  new  garrison,  but  to  direct  that  the  loss  occasioned  by  the  re- 
bellion shall  be  repaired  from  the  Royal  treasury ;  and  also,  that 
the  Council  of  the  Indies  shall  lay  before  him  the  best  plan  for 
effectually  reducing  the  Californias.     Such  means  are  deliberated 
upon,  a  plan  for  the  accomplishment  of  these  ends  proposed,  and 
orders  for  its  execution  signed  by  his  Majesty  sent  to  the  Vice- 
roy on  the  thirteenth  of  November,. 1744.     He  is  directed  to 
proceed  in  the  execution  of  them  without  lelay,  and  also  to  send 
further  information. 

The  reply  to  these  dispatches  reaches  Madrid  after  the  death 
of  Philip  V.  and  the  accessiou  of  Ferdinand  VI.  His  Majesty 
is  even  more  ardent  than  his  predecessor  ;  and,  upon  the  informa- 
tion sent  him,  issues  a  more  particular  and  full  set  of  instruc- 
tioua  than  any  that  have  preceded  them.  He  decrees  that  near 
all  the  safe  harbors  settlements  shall  be  formed  and  garrisons 


c. 

^glcct  or  (lisolv'di. 
payment  be  iu  any 

it  of  this  rcgula- 
ions  are  frecpently 
h  difficulty  in  pro- 
■  parishioners;  the 
when  distant  from 
iiffuring  commences 
isipates  much  that 
jriously  neutralizes 
vil,  however,  grows 
le  end  of  eighteen 
new  garrison  under 
to,  and  makes  these 

a  firm  footing,  the 
I  to  gather  the  dis- 
santimc  his  Majesty, 
a  of  California  both 
1  not  only  to  order 
ccasioned  by  the  re- 
sury ;  and  also,  that 
lim  the  best  plan  for 
aeans  are  deliberated 
B  ends  proposed,  and 
sty  sent  to  the  Vice- 
He  is  directed  to 
jlay,  and  also  to  send 

adrid  after  the  death 
A  VI.  His  Majesty 
ud,  upon  the  iuforma- 
id  full  set  of  instruc- 
He  decrees  that  near 
!'ormed  and  garrisons 


T  K  A  V  K  I,  S      IN     THE     C  A  L  I  F  O  R  N  I  A  8  . 


S57 


^ 


W:\\ 


.■v«*y 


« 


It'/ 


Mtablished  ;  tlint  tliorc  shall  also  bo  a  garrison  and  town  in  tlic 
Cfiitro  of  tlic  peninsula,  or  ns  nonr  it  ns  may  he  practioabli' ; 
tliat  faciiitii'H  simil  Ix?  aftorcK'd  for  ostublisliing  missions  at  tlio 
north,  in  order  to  cut  otl"  intorcourso  between  the  Caiit'ornian 
Iiidiiuis  and  tliosc  of  contiguous  nations ;  that  in  each  inissiim 
there  shall  bo  two  Padres  instead  of  one,  aa  heretofore  ;  that  in 
uU  the  frontier  stations  there  shall  bo  a  guard  under  the  cnin- 
niand  of  the  missionaries;  that  the  expense  of  carrying  all  these 
orders  into  execution  shall  bo  defrayed  from  the  Royal  trea- 
sury ;  and  finally,  that  the  missionaries  in  California  shall  bu 
allowed  the  same  salaries  as  are  paid  to  their  order  elsewhere. 
These  measures  give  groat  satisfaction  in  Mexico  and  California. 
The  hearts  of  the  good  Padres  are  cheered  by  the  assuranco 
thus  afforded  them,  that  they  have  in  their  monarch  an  earnest 
friend,  who  has  come  forward  in  his  strength  to  their  aid.  They 
now  proceed  on  their  pilgrimage  of  holy  labors,  with  hearts  full 
of  grateful  praise  to  Him  whom  thoy  serve. 

With  renewed  energy  and  a  patience  and  self-denial  worthy 
of  all  praise,  they  move  onward  in  the  great  work  they  have 
commenced.  No  difficulties  can  daunt — no  obstacles  shake 
their  fortitude.  They  seem  to  rise  above  the  selfish  pas- 
sions of  humau  nature  and  fix  their  hearts  and  their  cyca 
solely  on  the  glory  of  God  and  the  advancement  of  his 
cause  among  these  benighted  Indians. 

In  the  following  year  a  statement  of  the  number  and  condition 
of  the  missions  was  drawn  up  by  the  Padres  for  the  information 
of  their  sovereign.  From  this  it  appears  that  at  that  time  they 
contained  about  twenty-five  thousand  converts,  living  com- 
fortably under  the  paternal  government  of  the  Jesuit  Padres. 
Padres  Salva  Tieriu,  Kino  and  Ugarte  are  dead  ;  but  the 
good  deeds  which  they  have  done,  like  the  grass  and  the  flowers 
on  their  graves,  grow  greenly,  bud  and  blossom,  and  shed  on  the 
desertt,  of  the  Californian  peninsula,  a  perpetual  harvest  of  tem- 
poral and  religious  joy.  The  handicrafts  which  they  have  taught 

257 


2r.8 


»r  E  N  R  s    IN    T  II  F.    r  A  (•  I  r  I  r, 


tlicm  ;  tlin  Roirnro  of  nfrrinilturo  wliicli  tlicy  li  ivo  pivon  tliom; 
the  nnimals  wliidi  they  Imve  reared  around  tluir  (iwi'llin(.'.>i;  tlio 
great  idea  of  a  God  ;  and  the  awards  which  He  has  woven  iA- 
Hi'paraMy  with  tiic  elenionta  of  life,  mind,  and  every  eondition 
of  being;  the  diseoinfort,  debasement,  and  misery  of  vice;  tlio 
i|uietncHB,  elevation,  and  happiness  of  virtue;  all  these,  the 
Padres  have  scattered — seeds,  bearing  the  fruits  of  the  social  and 
religious  relations,  and  the  numberless  comforts  of  the  civilized 
state.  These  integral  laws  of  immortal  rationality,  have  germi- 
nated among  the  wastes  of  man,  under  the  kind  planting  of  tho 
Padres,  on  the  Californian  Peninsula.  A  mighty  deed  of  moral 
suasion  I  Not  by  tho  steel  of  con(jue8t,  which  drinks  tho  blood 
of  tho  weak,  and  opens  tho  red  pathway  to  physical  supremacy ; 
slaying  body  and  mind ;  enslaving  and  murdering.  This  con- 
(|ue8t  of  tho  I'adrea  is  a  victory  of  Love.  Instead  of  the  torpedo, 
they  plant  the  rose  of  Sharon ;  instead  of  tho  starless  night  of 
bondage,  they  bring  the  full  day  of  knowledge — filled  with  the 
industry,  trust,  faith,  hope  and  energies,  of  a  ripened  freedom. 
Who  can  contemplate  these  Missionaries,  enduring  tho  liardships 
which  have  been  partially  related  on  these  pages,  and  not  vene- 
rate their  memory  ?  They  have  voluntarily  come  from  the 
shrines  of  early  remembrances,  and  torn  from  the  heart  its  young 
and  tender  impulses.  They  have  left  on  the  cold  fields  of  the 
past,  every  tie  of  kindred,  and  tho  natural  hopes  of  humanity. 
They  have  taken  the  vows  of  God  on  their  souls ;  separated 
their  hands  and  thoughts  from  every  selfish  service ;  nnd  with 
bosoms  bared  to  every  shaft  of  possible  events,  entered  tho 
abodes  of  savoges,  shielded  only  by  .their  good  deeds  and  holy 
purposes  !  They  have  conquered  Lower  California.  It  has  be- 
come a  part  of  the  domain  of  the  Spanish  crown. 

From  1745  to  1767,  the  Jesuit  Padres  continue  their  labors 
at  these  missions.  The  Spanish  government,  meanwhile,  give 
tliem  small  relief  from  the  famines  occasioned  by  the  failure  of 
their  crops.  They  mainly  depend  upon  the  products  of  the  mis- 
sion plantations,  and  the  rude  manufactures  of  tho  Indian  arti- 
zans,  for  every  comfort  of  life.     And  not  only  do  they  sustain 


F 


I'i 
f.( 

of 

hu 

sla 

Vol 

the 

con 

oft 

thn 

pro 

ino,« 

froii 

\\ 

the 

Woill 

ihe  \ 
betM 

a 

In 

an 
tile 
pen 
ofl 

h(;i 
170 

r 

sine 

wou 

mot 

cd 

va^< 

aud 


fr 


or 


c. 


TRAVKLS      IN      T  H  K      r  A  I.  I  F  n  K  N  I  A  ^<  . 


259 


live  given  thorn; 
ir  (iwi'llinjiH ;  the 
lie  has  wovon  iA- 
l  every  mnJition 
scry  of  vice;  tho 
d;  all    thoHC,  tho 
g  of  the  Hocial  nnd 
tg  of  tho  civilized 
lality,  have  germi- 
,d  planting  of  tho 
;hty  deed  of  moral 
h  drinks  tho  blood 
lysical  supremacy ; 
Icring.     This  con- 
tcad  of  the  torpedo, 
,0  starless  night  of 
Ige— filled  with  the 
a  ripened  freedom, 
uring  the  hardships 
,ages,  and  not  vene- 
ily  come  from  the 
I  the  heart  its  young 
he  cold  fields  of  tho 

hopes  of  humanity, 
sir  souls;  separated 
h  service ;  nnd  with 

events,  entered  tho 
good  deeds  and  holy 
alifornia.  It  has  be- 
irown. 

continue  their  labors 
ncnt,  meanwhile,  give 
ued  by  the  failure  of 
e  products  of  the  mis- 
•es  of  tho  Indian  arti- 

only  do  they  sustain 


thomsolvos,  hut  every  year  brinpi  in  tlie  .sliips  from  the  IMiilip- 
piiie  Islan<is,  with  crews  roftinj:  nf  tlie  scurvy,  for  the  IVidrcs  to 
feed,  clotlie,  rentore  to  licallli,  or  bury  in  their  ivmcteries. 

TlK'ir  labors  of  love,  liowcviT,  dniw  to  a  clo-^c.  Tlie  society 
of  JcMis  or  .Jesuits,  to  wliii'li  tiiey  lidonir,  IwiH  existed  alioiit  two 
limnlred  years.  It  has  sent  its  missionaries  into  Persia,  Hindo- 
slaii.  China  and  Japan.  It  has  written  more  than  one  innulred 
volumes  in  tlic  (Miinese  laiijiuatte  alone,  many  liiindre<ls  more  in 
the  dith'reiit  diiileets  of  tlie  Kasfern  ton^'ues  ;  lias  <'liidcil  and 
controlled  the  civil  powers  of  Europe;  has  made  tlie  kinfjdoms 
of  tiie  wlioie  earth  feel  its  powir.  Tiie  Pope  liiiiiself  iiolds  iiis 
tlirone  at  tlie  sull'erance  of  tliis  mighty  association.  The  mo-t 
prot'oimd  learning  of  the  age  is  foinul  in  tlieir  colleges,  and  tlie 
most  vigorous  moral  movements  of  tlie  times  receive  their  life 
from  them. 

Whenever  the  sword  of  Conquest  is  drawn  over  the  head  of 
the  defenceless,  the  Jesuit's  hand  arrests  its  fall,  or  alleviates  its 
wound.  In  fact,  (in  the  American  enntinciit  they  have  spanned 
the  whole  breadth  of  human  society,  except  that  part  of  it  existing 
between  the  .Mlegliaiiy  momitains  anil  the  Atlantic,  and  brought 
a  largo  majority  of  the  native  population  under  their  control. 
In  Paraguay  indeed,  they  have  organized  ariuies,  ami  established 
an  Empire  of  their  own;  and  from  California  to  the  mouth  of 
the  lliode  la  Plata,  Spain  holds  sway  only  so  far  as  these  prie-ts 
permit.  They  protect  the  savages  against  the  ruthless  cruelty 
of  Spanish  barbarity.  England  in  1004  has  expelled  them  from 
her  dominions;  Venice  in  IGOC),  Portugal  iu  1757,  France  iu 
1704,  Spain  now  in  17G7,  does  the  same. 

That  government  would  have  the  sole  sway  over  tho  bones, 
sinews  and  intellects  of  tho  Indians.  Its  worthless  officials 
would  be  unrestrained  in  the  use  of  them,  to  dig  for  the  precious 
metals,  and  work  their  plantations.  The  Jesuits  have  previit- 
cd  this.  They  have  uniformly  befriended  the  Indians  and  ele- 
\si*o<i  their  bodily  and  mental  condition.  They  have  so  organized 
and  enlightened  them,  that  they  can  annihilate  the  Spanish  name 
from  the  continent,  in  a  day.     This  state  of  things  is  well  known. 


260 


SCENES     IN    THE     PACIFIO. 


A  remedy  is  devised.  Secret  orders  of  goverument  are  isRjfld 
from  Madrid  to  every  Alcalde  and  military  commandant  ia 
Spanish  territory,  to  prepare  sliips  and  other  means  of  transport, 
and  on  a  given  day,  nine  months  from  the  date  of  the  edict,  to 
seize  and  ehip  to  Italy  every  Jesuit  within  in  dominions.  And 
80  profoundly  secret  is  this  measure  kept,  and  so  complete  in  its 
execution,  that  on  the  day  appointed,  all  the  individuals  of  this 
order  in  Europe,  America,  and  the  Spanish  islands,  are  on  route, 
to  the  several  ports  from  which  they  are  to  sail  for  their  desti- 
nation. The  worthy  Padres  of  California  are  now,  therefore, 
taking  leave  of  their  weeping  converts.  The  whole  land  is  sad. 
The  services  of  the  churches  are  interrupted  with  their  lamenta- 
tions. The  poor  savages  crowd  about  the  departing  Padres  for 
a  blessing.  How  shall  they  console  their  grief?  Who  shall 
love  and  labor  for  them  ?  Who  shall  teach,  pray  for  them,  and 
rear  them  step  by  step  onward,  to  the  high  estate  of  a  virtuous, 
enlightened  and  religious  people  ?  Alas,  poor  Indians !  from 
this  day  onward,  you  return  to  vice,  and  fade  away. 

This  is  the  history  of  the  conquest  of  Lower  California,  by 
the  priests  of  the  Catholic  church.  Beligious  men  persuaded 
the  Indians  into  submissiou  to  the  civil  authorities  of  Spain. 


whj 

SpJ 
17( 

no^ 

Gc 

thd 

be 


1 


ment  are  IsnieA 
commandant  ia 
ans  of  transport, 
e  of  tlie  edict,  to 
lominions.     And 
io  complete  in  its 
idividuals  of  thii 
inds,  are  on  route, 
lil  for  their  desti- 
re  now,  therefore, 
whole  land  is  sad. 
ith  their  laraenta- 
jarting  Padres  for 
jrief?     Who  shall 
pray  for  them,  and 
state  of  a  virtuous, 
oor  Indians!  from 
J  away. 

ower  California,  by 
ious  men  persuaded 
orities  of  Spain. 


CHAPTER    XV. 

ruin  Jnnipero  Scrra— An  Expedition  bj'  Sea,  for  tho  Conquest  of  Ui>. 
per  Califdiiiia— Arrival  at  Lorctto— Expedition  by  sea  and  land  to  tlia 
North— Arrival  at  San  Diego— Ceremonies  of  Founding  a  Mission— A 
Battle— Going  Northward-  Naming  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco— Keturn 
to  San  Diego— The  Resolution  of  Padre  Junipero— An  Arrival— De- 
parture for  Monterey— Founding  a  Mission,  &c.— Arrival  of  thirty 
Monks— Olher  Missions  Established— Padro  Junipero  goes  to  Merino 
—Great  Scarcity  of  Food— Padro  Junipero  returns  by  Sea— A  Land 
Party  from  Mexico— Exploration  to  66°  N.— A  Diabolical  Plot  at  San 
Diego— A  Dreadful  Battle  at  Nightr-Death- Mission  Destroyed— San 
Juan  Capistrano— Mission  and  Presidio  of  San  Francisco  Founded— 
Death  of  Padru  Junipero— Number  of  Missions  in  Upper  California- 
Dates  of  their  Establishment— Progress,  Wealth  and  Influence  of  Mis- 
sions-Mexican Revolution— General  Echeandra  arrives  in  California 
—Measures  taken  to  Destroy  tho  Missions— A  Revolution— Califorrda 
Independent^Declaration  of  Rights— Alvarado  and  Villcjo— Jose 
Castro— Don  Carlos  Antonio  Carrello— Domestic  War  among  Califor- 
nian  Freemen— Operations  of  tho  Grand  Armies  of  the  North  and 
South— A  Victory  of  Noses— Return  of  Upper  California  to  the  Mexi- 
can Dominion. 

As  related  in  my  account  of  Lower  California,  the  Jesuits, 
who  have  brought  the  Indians  of  the  territory  into  subjection  to 
Spain,  and  induced  them  to  embrace  the  Catholic  faith,  have,  in 
17G7,  been  expelled  from  these  scenes  of  their  usefulness.  And 
now,  that  the  influence  of  this  powerful  society  is  prostrated,  the 
Government  turns  its  attention  to  the  conquest  of  the  country  by 
the  employment  of  another  religious  order,  who  are  supposed  to 
be  more  subse.'ient  to  the  dictates  of  the  civil  authority. 

In  1768,  Padre  Junipero  Sorra,  a  Franciscan  monk,  is  ap- 


2r,2 


P'^ENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


pointed  Missionary  President  of  the  Californias,  and  arrives  at 
San  Bias  in  the  month  of  February  of  tliis  year,  accompanied 
by  a  staff  of  sixteen  brotliers  of  liis  own  order,  from  the  Con- 
vent of  San  Fernando.  Here  lie  meets  sixteen  of  the  expul!r"1 
Jesuits,  in  sorrow  that  their  forsaken  flocks  must  return  to  the 
misery  of  the  savage  state.  These  men  have  labored  long  to 
plant  the  tree  of  life  in  the  rude  soil  of  the  savage  heart ;  it  has 
begun  to  put  forth  its  branches  to  the  sun,  and  slied  its  odors 
over  the  land  ;  but  while  the  fruits  of  their  trials  are  being  gar- 
nered, they  have  been  compelled  to  retire  from  the  harvest,  and 
leave  others  to  reap  or  despoil. 

On  the  twelfth  of  March,  17G8,  Padre  Juniporo  and  his  a.sso- 
ciates  sail  for  Loretto  in  the  same  vessel  which  has  brought 
Jesuits  thence,  and  arrive  there  in  safety  about  the  middle 
cf  the  following  nionth.  Padre  Junipero  is  a  worthy  Bucees- 
Bor  of  those  great  and  self-denying  men  who  have  preceded 
him  in  this  field  of  martyrdom.  His  own  peculiar  faith  in 
religious  things  is  warm  and  far-reaching.  He  sees  *on  the 
barren  heiglits  of  the  Californian  peninsula,  many  a  dwelling- 
place  of  righteousness  for  future  generations;  and  hears  in  the 
solemn  midnight,  the  voices  of  angels  encouraging  him  to  his 
work.  The  miracles  wrought  in  the  days  of  the  primitive 
church,  he  believes  may  still  be  wrought  by  the  saints  militant ; 
and  that  the  mighty  arm  of  faith  will  yet  bring  down  Oiiiuipo- 
teuce,  to  mould  anew  the  distorted  world.  He  unites  with 
his  zeal  various  and  extensive  learning.  The  ancient  and 
modern  languages,  with  all  their  stores  of  philosophy  and 
eloquence,  are  known  to  him.  The  life  of  courts — the  sweets 
of  the  social  ties — the  vast  and  stirring  acts  of  the  world 
moving  on  to  its  civil  and  religious  destinies,  are  familiar  to 
him,  for  he  has  mingled  with  them,  directed  and  enjoyed 
thorn.  Yet  Padre  Junipero  has  landed  in  the  wilderness 
of  California,  and  begins  the  duties  of  a  missiouary  among  its 
Indians. 

He  dispatches  his  brethren  to  the  several  missions  north 
and  south,  and  remains  at  Loretto  awaiting  the  arrival   of 


1 


ad 

bJ 

cl 
if 


;,  and  arrives  at 
ear,  accompanU;*! 

,  from  tiie  Coii- 
._  of  the  expoP.o<^ 
ust  return  to  the 

labored  long  to 

age  heart ;  it  has 

uid  slied  its  odors 

ials  are  being  gar- 

n  the  harvest,  and 

ipero  and  his  asso- 
ivhich  has  brought 
about   the  middle 
a  worthy  sncees- 
who  have  preceded 
n  peculiar  faith  in 
He  sees  "on  the 
la,  many  a  dwcUing- 
,8 ;  and  hears  in  the 
ouraging  him  to  liis 
ys   of  the   primitive 
,  the  saints  militant ; 
bring  down  Oumipo- 
Id.     He  unites   with 
The   ancient   and 
3   of  philosophy   and 
jf  courts— the  sweets 
g   acts   of  the   world 
stinies,  are  familiar  to 
directed    and    enjoyed 
ed    in   the   wilderne.ss 
t  missionary  among  its 

several  missions  north 
waiting  the  arrival   of 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIF  OR  MAS, 


263 


Josef  Galvoz,  the  Visitador  General,  whose  commands  arc  to 
guide  him  in  his  labors.  This  dignitary  arrives  at  La  Paz  in 
July,  with  orders  from  his  superiors  to  visit  the  missions  in 
Lower  California,  to  superintend  expeditions  about  to  be  dis- 
patched to  San  Diego  and  Monterey  in  the  upper  province,  for 
tlie  establisliment  of  missions  and  forts.  Soon  the  three  packet 
boats  of  this  undertaking  arrive.  They  are  called  the  San  Bias, 
San  Carlos  and  San  Antonio.  In  them  are  provisions,  agri- 
cultural implements,  and  seeds  of  Spanish  and  M<'xican  grains, 
fruits  and  esculent  roots,  to  be  planted  at  the  contemplated  es- 
tablishments. They  will  need  cattle,  horses  and  mules.  A 
party  tliereforc  is  organized  to  drive  these  over  the  country  to 
Monterey.  The  San  Carlos  is  ready  for  sea,  and  the  Visitador 
General  fixes  the  day  for  lier  departure.  In  this  vessel  is  Don 
Vincent  Vital,  Commander,  Don  Pedro  Prat,  Lieutenant, 
twenty-five  Catalonian  volunteers,  a  good  ship's  crew,  and 
Padre  Fernando  Parron. 

Death  has  visited  the  Spanish  vessels  in  these  seas  ever  since 
Cortez'  iron  prow  ruffled  them.     In  all  the  north  the  freezing 
hand  of  the  Great  Destroyer  is  seen  !     No  living  men  on  board 
the  San  Carlos  dare  unfurl  the  canvass  till  heaven  is  appeased. 
The  red  cross  is  therefore  raised  to  the  peak,  the  orange  flag  of 
Spain   floats    beneath    it;    and  the  crew  and  the  soldiers  and 
officers,  and  priests  with  shaven   crowns,  are  gathered  on  the 
deck ;  the  holy  sacrament  is  administered  by  Padre  Junipero ; 
and  Mass  is  said  to  San  Joself,  the  chosen  patron  of  these  ex- 
peditious ;  the  vessel  and  colors  are  blessed  ;  an  absolution  and 
benediction  administered  to  the  people ;  and   the  vessel  San 
Carlos  leaves  the   harbor  of  Lorctto  on  the  ninth  of  Jamiary, 
17G9,  on  her  voyage  to   Upper  California.     The  San  Antonio 
Bails  from  Ca.pc  San  Lucas  on  the  fifteenth  of  the  following 
mouth.     Her  commander  is  Don  Juan  Perez.     Sliehas  on  board 
Padres  Juan   Biscayno  and  Francisco  Gomez,  and  her  crew. 
The  San  Josef  leaves  Loretto  on  the  sixteenth  of  June  of  the 
Bame  year. 

Meanwhile  the  land  expedition  is  being  forwarded  with  all 


264 


SCENES     IN     THE     PACIFIC. 


posfliblo  dispatch.  It  is  divided  into  two  companies ;  so  that  \l 
one  of  them  nhall  be  destroyed,  the  other  may  chance  to  bo 
saved.  Don  Gasper  de  Portala  is  the  commissioned  Oovcrnor 
of  the  Galifornias  and  commander  of  this  land  expedition.  He 
is  a  captain  of  dragoons  in  the  Spanish  army.  Captain  Fer- 
nando Rivera  y  Moncada  is  his  second.  The  latter  receives 
command  of  the  first  division  of  the  landsmen ;  and  in  the  mouth 
of  September,  17G8,  takes  up  his  line  of  march  for  the  north. 
Ho  soon  arrives  at  a  place  now  called  Nuestra  Senora  de  loi] 
Angelos,  on  the  Indian  frontier,  and  having  found  some  supplies 
and  baggage,  sent  in  launches  from  the  missions  to  this  placo, 
he  proceeds  eighteen  leagues  northward,  to  a  valley  of  excellent 
pastures,  wood  and  water,  and  halts.  Here  he  remains  until 
the  first  day  of  March,  17G9,  and  again  marches  northward,  until 
the  twenty-fourth  of  the  same  month,  when  he  arrives  at  the 
port  of  San  Diego,  in  latitude  32"  N.  Here  he  finds  the  S;in 
Carlos  and  San  Antonio  at  anchor.  These  vessels  have  suffered 
greatly  from  storms  and  contrary  winds.  The  first  arrived  on 
the  first  of  May,  1 768.  Her  whole  people,  except  the  officers, 
cook,  and  one  seaman,  have  died  of  the  scurvy  and  thirst  and 
hunger.  The  San  Antonio  arrived  on  the  eleventh  of  April, 
having  lost  eight  of  her  crew  by  the  scurvy.  The  San  Josef 
was  not  seen  after  she  left  Loretto.  Don  Rivera  y  Moncada, 
his  twenty-five  soldiers,  his  three  muleteers  and  his  converted 
Indians,  Padre  Crispi  and  a  midshipman,  now  form  a  camp 
upon  the  green  plain,  and  rest  from  the  fatigues  of  a  march 
of  fifty-four  days,  over  the  dry  crags  of  the  Californian  wilder- 


ness. 


The  second  part  of  the  land  expedition,  with  its  mules,  horses, 
black  cattle,  muleteers  and  baggage,  on  the  thirteenth  of  May, 
17G9,  are  at  a  place  called  Villacata;  and  Padre  Junipcro  and 
the  Governor  are  with  them.  They  are  waiting  the  arrival  of 
the  troops  ;  and  while  thus  unemployed,  examine  the  surround- 
ing country — find  it  valuable,  and  consecrate  it  to  the  use  of  the 
mission  in  the  neighborhood  called  San  Francisco  de  Borja* 
and  hither  this  mission  is  to  be  removed.     The  ceremony  of 


I 


0 

k 
f 
t 
d 
tl 
tl 
fr 
ni 
J 
G 
C 
di 
tb 
sL 

th 
bu 
in 
ca 
tl 


Iiies ;  so  tliat  \i 

ly  chance  to  bo 

lioned  Governor 

[xpedition.     He 

Captain  Fer- 

lattcr  receives 

Ind  in  the  mouth 

for  the  north. 

Senora  de  lo9 

lid  some  supplies 

nns  to  this  phicc, 

illey  of  excellent 

le  remains  until 

northward,  until 

he  arrives  at  the 

he  finds  the  San 

isels  have  suffered 

he  first  arrived  on 

Kcept  the  officers, 

vy  and  thirst  and 

eleventh  of  April, 

'.     The  San  Josef 

livera  y  Moncada, 

and  his  converted 

HOW  form  a  camp 

itigues  of  a  march 

Californian  wilder- 

h  its  mules,  horses, 
thirteenth  of  May, 
•adre  Junipero  and 
ting  the  arrival  of 
mine  the  surround- 
it  to  the  use  of  tho 
■aucisco  de  Borja* 
The  ceremony  of 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALI70RNIAS. 


263 


consecrating  the  location  of  this  mission  is  worthy  of  being 
known.  The  soldiers  and  muleteers  clear  away  the  rubbish 
from  the  future  site  of  the  church — hang  seven  bells  upon  tlie 
trees,  and  form  a  grand  cross.  Tui^  is  tho  work  of  the  first 
day.  On  the  second.  Padre  Junipero,  invested  in  robes,  blesses 
the  holy  water,  and  with  it  sprinkles  the  site  of  the  church  and 
the  cross.  The  latter,  adorned  with  flowers,  is  then  erected  in 
front  of  the  consecrated  area.  This  mission  then  receives  its 
name,  San  Josef.  The  first  Mass  is  now  chanted — and  Pndre 
Junipero  pronounces  a  di-scourse  upon  the  coming  of  the  Holy 
Ghost.  Tiie  sacrifice  of  tho  Mass  is  now  concluded,  and  Voiii 
Creator  is  sung.  In  the  progress  of  all  tliis  there  is  a  coiistiiut 
discharge  of  musketry.  The  smoke  of  the  burning  powder  is 
the  only  inoense  from  the  mountain  altars  of  tliis  day's  wor- 
fihip. 

They  leave  Vellacata  on  the  15th  of  May,  1769,  and  direct 
their  course  northwardly  towards  the  mouth  of  the  Colorado  ; 
but  after  traveling  above  thirty-five  leagues,  tlieir  progress  is 
intercepted  by  a  steep  and  rocky  mountain,  over  whicli  tlieir 
cattle  cannot  pass.  Thoy  therefore  return  southward  as  far  as 
the  frontier  mission,  San  Borja.  Having  rested  themselves  and 
their  animals  a  few  days,  they  take  a  route  in  a  north-westerly 
direction.  Forty-six  days  do  they  travel.  The  southern  half 
of  their  way  passes  through  a  sterile  rocky  country  with  occa- 
sional fruitful  valleys  skirted  with  timber.  The  nortlicrn  iialf 
is  plentifully  supplied  with  streams  of  water  running  among 
rich  savannas  clothed  with  the  wild  grasses,  roses,  and  vines 
bearing  a  large  sour  gr.ipe.  The  timber  is  not  abundant — but 
on  the  hihs  the  deep  loamy  soil  frequently  produces  the  live 
oak  and  other  valuable  trees,  and  the  vales  which  run  up  from 
tlie  .seaside,  are  often  clad  with  heavy  forests.  Many  Indians 
meet  them.  The  males,  both  old  and  young,  are  entirely  naked, 
while  the  females  of  all  ages  are  covered  with  rush  mats  bud 
skins  from  their  breasts  downward.  Their  food  consists  of 
seeds,  fruits,  and  fish.  They  are  uniformly  familiar  and  friend< 
ly.     On  the  first  day  of  July  they  pitch  their  camp  ou  the 


260 


SCENES     IN     THE     rACIFIC. 


the  beaoh  among  their  countrymen,  at  the  long-sought  port  of 
San  Picgo. 

As  the  crews  of  the  vessels  have  been  thinned  by  death,  till 
thoro  lire  i.carcely  enough  to  man  one  of  thcni,  they  cannot  pro- 
ceed farther  north  without  recruits.  Accordingly  the  remaining 
members  of  both  crews  are  put  on  board  the  Sun  Antonio,  and 
the  ship  dispatched  to  San  Bias  for  more  seamen.  It  is  also 
determined  that  the  Governor  shall  lead  the  principal  part  of 
the  landsmen  along  the  shore  to  Monterey.  The  Padre's  Presi- 
dent and  two  missionaries  and  eight  soldiers  are  therefore  de- 
tached to  remain  at  the  newly  consecrated  mission  of  San 
Difgo ;  and  Don  Gasper  Portala,  the  Governor,  with  one  ser- 
vant, the  Padres  Juan  Crispi  and  Francisco  Gomez,  with  each 
a  converted  Indian  to  attend  on  him,  and  Don  Fernando 
Rivera  y  IMoneada  with  his  sergeant  and  twenty-six  soldiers, 
and  his  lieutenant  Don  Pedro  Foxes,  with  seven  Oatalonian 
soldiers,  and  Don  Miguel  Constanzo,  engineer,  and  seven  mule- 
teers and  fifteen  Indians  from  the  southern  missions,  start  over 
land  to  Monterey. 

Tiiey  search  the  coast  for  bays  and  harbors,  examine  the 
lands  and  their  products,  pass  the  harbor  of  Monterey  without 
recognizing  it,  go  north  to  the  Bay  now  called  San  Francisco, 
and  give  it  that  name  under  the  following  circumstances : — 
When  the  Padre  President,  Junipero,  received  orders  from  the 
Visitador  General  respecting  the  names  of  the  new  missions 
which  he  was  sent  northward  to  fouTid,  perceiving  that  the  name 
of  the  Patron  Saint  of  hi?  order  of  priests  was  not  among  them, 
said,  "  And  is  our  Father  San  Francisco  to  have  no  mission  as- 
signed to  him  ?"  To  which  the  Visitador  replied,  "  If  San 
Francisco  wishes  to  have  a  mission,  let  him  show  you  a  good 
port,  and  then  it  shall  bear  his  name."  When  the  Monterey 
expedition,  therefore,  see  this  unequalled  bay,  they  exclaim, 
"  This  is  the  port  to  which  the  Visitador  referred,  and  to  which 
the  Saint  has  led  us,"  and  immediately  called  the  bay  Bajia  del 
San  Francisco.     They  now  erect  a  cross  on  the  western  shore 


I 


c 

1 
t 
(] 
t 
( 
1 
tl 
w 
cl 

f( 

w 

t 


t 


sought  port  oi 

J  by  death,  till 
loy  cannot  pro- 

thc  remaining 
in  Antonio,  and 
icn.  It  ia  also 
rincipal  part  of 

Padre's  Presi- 
TO  therefore  de- 
mission of  Saa 
with  one  ser- 
with  each 

Ion  Fernando 
..^■-six  soldiers, 
jeven  Oataloniaa 
and  seven  mule- 
ssions,  start  over 


or 


roniez, 
Do 

nty- 


,ors,  examine  the 
Monterey  without 
ed  San  Francisco, 
circumstances  :— 
2d  orders  from  the 
the  new  missions 
ring  that  the  name 
s  not  among  them, 
liave  no  mission  as- 
replied,  "If  San 
II  show  you  a  good 
yhen  the  Monterey 
bay,  they  exclaim, 
erred,  and  to  which 
d  the  bay  Bajia  del 
L  the  western  shore 


TRAVELS     IN     THE     CALIFORNIAS 


2G7 


of  the  southern  great  arm  of  this  bay,  and  haying  taken  pos- 
session  of  the  country  in  the  name  of  their  sovereign,  celebrate 
the  Mass,  comn.ence  their  return  to  S.n  Diego,  and  arrive  there 
on  the  twenty-fourth  of  January,  1770.  „     „, 

During  the  half  year  occupied  by  this  expedition,  the  Padre 
President  Junipero  is  not  idle  at  Sau  Diego.     Ou  the  sixteenth 
day  of  July,  1769,  he  consecrates  the  foundation  of  a  mission. 
This  is  the  day  of  the  year,  when  in  121'2,  the  Span.ar,ls,  under 
the  banner  of  the  cross,  prostrated  the  power  of  the  Mahome- 
dans  in  the  south  of  Spain  ;  and  the  good  Padre  Junipero  hopes 
that  the  same  banner  shall  yet  wave  over  tlie  (Jent.les  o    Upper 
California.     He  chants  the  Mass,  celebrates  the  triumph  of  the 
Holy  Ooss.  sprinkles  the  ground  with  the  baptismal  water  of 
the  Church,  and  calls  it  San   Diego,  or  Saint  James.     After- 
wards he  dedicates  one  of  their  huts  to  the  use  of  a  temporary 
church,  and  invites  the  Indians  to  attend  service ;  presents  them 
food  which  they  reject ;  gives  them  small  pieces  o    cloth  with 
which  they  are  greatly  delighted  ;  yet  they  cannot  be  persuaded 
To  bow  beLetlfe  cross,  and  gladden  the  Padre's  heart  by  en. 
bracing   the   Catholic  faith;  but  on   the   contrary,  they  allow 
their  desire  for  cloth  to  induce  them  in  the  night  time  to  go  on 
l.r.e  rafts  built  of  bulrushes  to  the  ship  San  Carlos,  and  pur- 
loin a  part  of  her  sails.     This  act  is  followed  by  precautious    o 
pvevent  its  repetition;  yet  as  no  pnnishment  is  inflicted  on 
thieves,  they   arm    themselves  with   bows  and  arrows,  wo  dc 
Bwords  of  keen  edge,  and  formidable  clubs,  and  begm  to    teal 
BO  boldly  that  the  Spaniards  find  it   necessary  to  oppose  them 
by  force  ;   and  as  soon  as   their  determination  to  do  so  is  mani- 
fested, the  Indians  resolve  to  accomplish  thefr  designs  by  war. 
O  ,  tie  thirteenth  and  fourteenth  days  of  August,  therefore,  they, 
oree  their  way  into  the  quarters   of  the   people  and   carry  otl 
'"ral   garments   and   other  valuables;     but   are  driven   away 
:i    out    n  attempt  to  kill  any  of  them.     On  the  fit  ecn  1.  . 
^cornea  necessary  for  Padre  Fernando  to  go  on  bo-^  t'  ^^b. 
Carlos  to  celebrate  the  Mass  with  two  soldiers  who  guard  th« 


268 


SCENES    IN    THE    PACIFTO. 


Bliip.  Padres  Jnnipero  and  Biscayno  are  loft  on  shore  with 
only  two  other  persons  able  to  do  duty;  and  the  Indians,  per- 
ceiving the  advantage  to  be  derived  from  the  absence  of  one  of 
the  boldest  of  those  they  would  rob,  gather  in  lurge  numbers 
while  the  people  are  at  Mass,  and  begin  to  carry  away  every 
thing  they  find,  even  the  sheets  that  cover  the  siek  I  The  cor- 
poral calls  "  to  arms  1"  whereupon  the  Indians  retire  a  short 
distance  and  shoot  their  arrows.  And  now  the  four  soldiers, 
the  carpenter  and  blacksmith  commence  firing  their  guns.  The 
latter,  although  he  had  no  armor  to  protect  him  from  the  arrows, 
charges  upon  the  savages,  crying  out,  "  Long  live  the  faith  of 
Jei«us  Christ,  and  die  the  dogs  his  enemies  t" 

Meantime  the  Padre  President  Junipero  is  praying  that  none 
may  be  hurried  to  the  world  of  spirits  with  their  sins  unfor- 
given. 

The  battle  rages  on,  accompanied  by  the  terrible  war-cry  of 
the  savages.  An  arrow  takes  effect ;  a  boy  called  Josef  runs 
in  great  haste  and  prostrates  himself  at  the  Padre's  feet,  ex- 
claiming, "  Father,  give  me  absolution,  for  the  Indians  have 
killed  me."  The  Vadre  absolves  him.  The  arrow  has  passed 
through  his  throat;  and  he  immediately  dies!  His  death  is 
kept  secret  and  the  battle  continues.  Many  of  the  savages  fall. 
They  drag  away  their  dead  and  dying,  till  at  length,  panio- 
smitten  by  the  destructive  effects  of  fire-arms,  they  flee  to  the 
hills  in  great  precipitation  ! 

It  cannot  be  known  how  many  of  these  savages  have  perished 
by  this  mad  act.  Very  many  are  known  to  be  wounded ;  for  in 
a  few  days  their  friends  bring  them  into  the  mission  and  entreat 
the  Padres  to  cure  them  :  and  the  surgeon  and  the  Padres  treat 
them  kindly  till  restored  to  health. 

Padre  Biscayno,  one  sc'Jier,  an  Indian  Christian,  and  the 
brave  blacksmith  arc  wounded ;  but  in  a  short  time  all  the 
whites,  except  the  poor  boy  Josef,  are  well  again.  This  un- 
successful attack  has  a  salutary  effect  on  the  Indians.  They 
oome  fearfully  into  the  mission  every  day,  and  treat  the  Padres 
and   the  religion   they   teach   with   deference.     A   boy  about 


r 


1 
t 

e 

t 
♦ 

J 
k 

if 

oi 
t 


TRAVELS     IN      THB     CALIFOttNIAS. 


'269 


on  shore  with 
e  Indians,  per- 
aence  of  one  of 

I  large  numbers 
ry  away  every 
lick !  The  cor- 
8  retire  a  short 
le  four  soldiers, 
leir  guns.  The 
"rom  the  arrows, 
live  the  faith  of 

raying  that  none 
their  sins  unfor-      ^ 

rriblo  war-cry  of 
■ailed  Josef  runs 
Padre's  feet,  ex- 
thc  Indians  have 
arrow  has  passed 
;8!     His  death  is 
)f  the  savages  fall, 
at  length,  panio- 
18,  they  flee  to  the 

iges  have  perished 
)e  wounded;  for  in 
nission  and  entreat 
id  the  Padres  treat 

Christian,  and  the 
short  time  all  the 

II  again.  This  un- 
the  Indians.  They 
ui  treat  the  Padres 
ice.     A  boy   about 


fifteen  years  old  is  among  the  roost  frequent  and  devout.     Him 
the  Piulro    Prosident   tenches  the  Spanish  language,  m  order 
that  he  may  learn  the  prayers  and  catcchis.n,  and  act  as  n.tcr- 
preter.     Ho  learns  easily,  and  is  soon  able  to  u.lorm  h.s    .an- 
Lmen  that  the  Padre  desires  to  baptize  the.r  eh.  dren,  and 
iu'truet  them  in  the   Catholic  faith.     One  is  selected  Irom  the 
„>any  which   are  olVored,  and  the  holy  water  .s  about  to  fa 
from  the  Padre's  hand,  when  the  parents  of  the  child  snatch  it 
away  to  the  great  grief  of  the  Padre  and  the  indignation  of 
the  soldiers.     The   latter   in  their  zeal  ask  permission  to  de- 
8troy  these  blaspheming  gentiles.     The  good  Junipero  denies 

♦  "iMstress   follows  these  Franciscans   as  it  has   the   Jesuits. 
The  country  is  unploughed  and  yields  little  food      The  San 
Antonio  has  gone  to  San  Bias  for  supplies  ;  but  heaven  only 
know^  if  the  storms  will  spare  her  to  save  them  from  starvation. 
She  has  already  been  absent  so  long  that  they  begin  to  fear  she 
ia  lost      The  Governor,  therefore,  orders  an  account  to  be  taken 
of  the  provisions  on  hand,  and  notifies   the  Padre  President 
that  they  can  hold  out  no  longer  than  March  following;  and 
that  if  the  ship  should   not  arrive  by  San  JosePs   day,  the 
twenty-fifth  of  that  month,  he  shall  abandon  the  enterprise,  and 
commence  his  return  to  Loretto.     This  announcement  greatly 
afflicts  the  Padre  Junipero.     Leaving  the  country  he  feels  will 
carry  with  it  for  a  long  time  to  come,  the  abandonment  of  the 
Indians  to  their  heathenism;  and  he  retires  to  his  closet  and 
implores  aid  from  Heaven.     God  is  his  master ;  from  Him  he 
seeks  light.     San  Josef  is  the  Patron  ^aint  of  bs  holy  en  er- 
prise-  from  him  he  seeks  celestial  intercessions  with  the  Ruler 
of  events.     The  conversion  of  the  Gentiles  is  the  work  which 
burdens  his  heart;  and  he  holds  the  cross  toward  Heaven  and 
vows  never  to  leave  California  till  he  has  thrust  the  spiritual 
plough  into  the  glebe  of  its  moral  wastes.     He  communicates 
his  resolution  to  the  Governor,  and  waits  the  approach  of  the 
eventful  day  with  the  greatest  solicitude. 

The  twentyfifth  of  March  at  last  comes.    The  Padre  greets 


273 


SPKNES    IN    THE     PAriPIC. 


its  dawning  liji;ht  with  tbo  chants  of  tho  Mass,  and  the  cnlebro- 
tion  of  tho  most  sacred  Hcrviees  of  the  eliurch.  Tho  poo'ile  are 
called  to;;etii(T  at  mid-day,  and  prayers  arc  most  devoutly  said 
and  praises  a^'ain  Huiig  to  the  Creator. 

The  good  Padre  speajjs.  He  draws  an  exhortation  from  the 
Laws  uf  (jiod.  lie  cxiiorts  as  one  soon  to  be  left  alone  in  u 
land  of  martyrdom.  He  ceases ;  ho  blesses  ;  and  the  tide  of 
thought  and  eniotion  is  now  setting  upon  tho  busy  movements 
of  the  de]iarture  for  Loretto,  when  lo  !  in  the  offing  is  perceived 
the  outline  of  a  vessel  standing  towards  the  land!  Was  it  an 
omen  1  shadowed  on  the  rim  of  the  sky  to  arouse  faith  in  God  ? 
It  disappears  during  the  night  !  The  sun  rises  and  sets  over 
the  hot  seas  three  times  afterwards,  and  it  does  not  re-appear  I 
The  fourth  day  dawns  and  waxes  to  the  meridian,  and  wanes  on 
the  western  waves  I  And  when  night  shuts  in,  the  cable  of  the 
San  Antonio  rattles  its  rude  salutation  to  the  silent  shores 
around  the  Uay  of  San  Diego ! 

On  the  arrival  of  this  ship  with  provisions  and  a  recruit  of 
men,  it  is  determined  to  make  another  expedition  to  Monterey. 
A  party  by  land  and  another  by  sea,  are  detailed  for  the  under- 
taking. Both  leave  San  Diego  about  the  middle  of  April, 
1770. 

Long  and  tedious  are  the  voyages  of  these  infant  days  of 
navigation.  Forty-six  days  are  spent  by  the  San  Antonio  in 
making  4"  of  latitude.  On  the  thirty-first  of  May,  however, 
Padre  Junipcro  with  joy  beholds  from  the  ship  the  green  hills 
around  the  bay  of  Monterey.  Tho  anchor  is  let  into  the  waters, 
the  boats  are  lowered,  they  shoot  away  to  the  shore ;  the  land 
expedition  having  arrived  eight  days  before,  meet  their  country- 
men on  the  rocks  at  the  beach.  The  first  and  second  of  June 
are  spent  in  that  hearty  social  intercourse,  which  those  alone  ever 
feel  who  have  thrown  tlu.'ir  hearts  for  months  on  the  cold  breast 
of  the  wilderness.  Dangers  incurred,  sufferings  endured  on  rock 
and  surge,  remembrances  of  the  sacred  past,  the  sensations  cf 
dawning  joy  crowding  on  past  misery  like  day  on  the  heels  of 
night,  cluster  around  the  mind  and  bid  the  affections  increase  tho 


B 

t: 
b 
( 
fi 
\ 
J 

is 

St 

ni 
b: 
ai 

SI 

tl 
in 
fii 
ot 
ci 


a 

o 
d 
o 


^.JSm 


TRAVELS      IN      THK      PAl,  IPORNIAS 


•271 


and  the  cclcb:a- 

The  peonle  are 

ist  devoutly  said 

irtation  from  the 
10  left  iiloiio  in  a 
and  tlic  tide  of 
busy  inoveuienta 
ffing  is  perceived 
lid!     Was  it  an 
iBC  faith  in  God? 
es  and  sets  over 
)cs  not  re-nppcar  1 
an,  and  wanes  on 
,  the  cable  of  the 
the  silent  shores 

?  and  a  recruit  of 
ition  to  Monterey, 
ilcd  for  the  under- 
middle   of  April, 

sc   infant  days  of 
he  San  Antonio  ia 
of  May,  however, 
ihip  the  green  hills 
let  into  the  waters, 
;he  shore  ;  the  land 
meet  their  country- 
and  second  of  June 
lich  those  alone  ever 
H  on  the  cold  breast 
iigs  endured  on  rock 
t,  the  sensations  cf 
day  on  tne  heels  of 
ffections  increase  tha 


pulsations  of  life.     On  the  third  of  Juno,  thoy  cclobrato  their 
lanling.      It  is  the  IVntccost  day.     The  olVurrs  and  men  of  tho 
sea  and  land  expeditions  assemble  under  a  great  oak  tree  near 
tlie  shore.     They  erect  an  altar  in  its  shade,  hang  bells  on  its 
branches,  and   proceed  with   their   servicTS.     Tlicy   chant    |V//i 
Crvnior,  consecrate  the  water,  erect  and  bless  a  grand  cross,  un- 
furl tho  royal  standard,  chant  the  Mass,  and  sing  a  Salve  to  tho 
Virgin,  wh.-se  image  occupies  the  altar.     And  after  the  I'adro 
Junipero  has  delivered  a  pathetic  discourse,  a  solemn  Tc  Dcum 
is  >.ung  to  the  Great  Creator.     The  officers  now  take  formal  pos- 
session of  the  country  in  tho  name  of  their  king.     These  cere- 
monies being  completed,  they  repair  to  a  shady  place  on  tho 
beach  and  dine,  as  they  have  worshiiipcd,  amid  salutes  of  small 
arms,  and  the  cannon  of  tho  vessels.     Thus  is  commenced  tho 
settlement  of  Monterey,  in  Upper  California.     All  this  done, 
the  Padre  President  proceeds  to  found  the  mission  of  Monterey, 
ill  the  same  manner  as  lie  has  done  that  at  San  Diego.     Hut  he 
finds  it  more  difficult  to  induce  the  Indians  to  avail  themselves 
of  his  teachings.     The  firing  of  the  artillery  an.l  muskets  at  the 
celebration  of   the  first   Mass,  has  so  terrified  them,  that  the 
heart  of  the  excellent  Padre  is  not  gladdened  by  a  baptism,  till 
the  twenty-sixth  of  the  following  December. 

Meanwhile  the  ship  San  Antonio  being  detained  some  time 
at  Monterey,  the  Padre  President  is  enabled  to  explore  portions 
of  the  neighboring  country.     He  finds  the  fertile  soil  so  abun- 
dant and  the   natives  so  numerous,  that  he  writes  to  the  chief 
of  the   College  of  San    Fernando  in   Mexico,  that  a  hundred 
more  missionaries  may    be  well  employed  in  the   Californias. 
This  favorable  account  of  the  country  induces  the  Viceroy  at 
Mexico  to  order  thirty   Franciscan  monks  to  proceed  to  Sau 
Ulas— twenty  of  whom   are   destined  for   Lower  and    ten   for 
Upper  California.     The  latter  sail  from  San  Bias  in  the  Saa 
Antonio,  on  the  seventh  of  January,  1771,  and  on  the  twelfth 
of  March,  put  into  San  Diego,  sorely  afflicted  with  the  scurvy. 
They  go  overland  to  Monterey. 

The  monks  destined  for  Lower  California  are  less  fortunate, 


179 


■  CBNRM     IN     TIIF.     PA  (;  trio. 


Tlicir  ship,  tlio  Han  ('arid*,  in  allowed  by  its  unworthy  oom* 
maiidor  to  drift  oHliore,  in  tlio  Port  Mansanillo,  a  fine  harbor 
^'ing  gomo  dintanou  Bouth  from  San  IMaH;  and  tho  poor  friarn, 
j«(ft  to  shift  for  tlu!inHclvi'M,  ard  oonipcllcd  to  foil  ovit  tlinuj  Imn- 
irt'd  leaguoH  of  rough,  pathlcHR,  uninhabited  eoast  along  tlio 
4cean  and  gulf,  till  they  (intl  theniNelvet*  on  tho  uoaHt  of  Hcnorii 
opposite  to  Loretto.  They  oroBH  tho  gulf  to  Lorotto,  thither 
the  San  OarloH  follows  them  in  the  month  of  AuguHt,  having 
hreu  eight  montliH  at  sea,  between  two  ports  whieh  are  now  but 
five  or  Mix  days'  sail  apart. 

The  reinforcement  to  Upper  California  enables  the  proHid- 
ing  I'adru  to  found  a  new  nuH.sion,  which  lie  dedicatcii  to  San 
Antonio  de  Padua.  This  station  is  built  among  the  green 
hills  of  Hanta  Lucia,  about  eight  leagues  from  the  Pacific  coast, 
and  twenty  from  Monterey. 

The  grounds  are  broken  and  tho  seed  sown ;  but  a 
blighting  and  untimely  frost  comes,  and  tho  total  loss  of 
the  wheat  is  threatened.  The  Indians  arc  disheartened,  and 
Btill  mjro  so  tho  Padres,  who  anticipate  with  keen  forebo- 
dings the  loss  of  their  bread.  They  send  the  Christiau  In- 
dians to  the  woods  to  gather  needs,  roots,  fruits,  &e.,  for 
their  subsistence,  as  in  former  times  has  been  their  custom. 
The  Padres  streugtheu  their  own  and  the  Indians'  &ith,  by  a 
firm  reliance  on  their  patron  saint ;  and  to  conciliate  his  high- 
est favor,  they  resolve  to  celebrate  his  Novena  with  all  their 
converts.  At  tho  same  time  they  take  tho  more  business-like 
precaution  of  irrigating  tho  blighted  field ;  and  in  a  few 
days,  such  is  the  eflBcacy  of  tlio  water,  and  still  more,  as  they 
believe,  their  prayers,  that  tho  resuscitated  grain  field  is  seen 
springing  into  new  life.  At  the  end  of  tho  Novena,  the  whole 
field  is  covered  with  beauty  and  promise,  and  at  harvest 
yields  more  abundantly  than  was  ever  before  known.  This 
encourages  the  new  converts,  and  kindles  the  gratitude  of  tue 
Padres.  Meanwhile  new  oflForts  are  resolved  on  in  San  Diego; 
and  on  tho  tenth  of  August,  Padre  Pedro  Ganibon  and  Padre 
Angel  Somera,  with  a  detachment  if  ten  soldiers  and  the  re- 


r 


j 


Wll 

hk 

fW( 

fill 

Th 

ara 
cee 
Sai 


unworthy  oom* 

lo,  a  fine  hnrhor 
tlio  poor  friiirH, 
ovtT  tlin*  hun- 
coiiBt  nliiiij(  tlio 
fouHt  of  Hi'iiorn 
Ijofctto,  thither 
AugUMt,  having 
hich  are  now  but 

iiMi's  the  prcflid- 
di'tiicatcs  to  Sail 
iinong  the  green 
the  Pacific  coast, 

■own ;  but  a 
lie  total  losH  of 
iliaheartencil,  and 
*ith  keen  forebo- 
the  ChriHtittU  In- 

fruits,   &c.,    for 
ecu  their  euHtoui. 
idians'  faith,  Dy  a 
!onciliato  his  high- 
ena  with  all  their 
more  business-like 
I;    and   in   a   few 
still  more,  as  they 
grain  field  is  seen 
Noyena,  the  whole 
B,    and   at   harvest 
fore  known.     Tliis 
he  gratitude  of  tue 
d  on  iu  San  Diego ; 
5ambon  and  Padr« 
jldicra  and  the  re- 


r 


T  R  A  V  K  I.  «       IN       THE       C  A  t,  I  f  O  n  N  I  A  « 


•273 


qm^itp  nuinlMT  of  miilM  and  .Irivm.  «.t  out  and  tra\rl  norih- 
witrdly.  Wli.Mi  tlicy  ariivf  iit  the  liv.-r  Tonil.lons,  iil.out  forty 
Um«u.'.s  from  San  l)..•^ro,  and  while  thry  are  serkii.i,'  a  desira- 
blc  site  tor  their  mission,  the  Indians,  arin.d  and  led  on  by 
two  commanders,  rush  from  their  lurkiiiK'-pl"^'''"  with  .Iread- 
ful  yells  and  the  most  un^iuivotal  demonstrations  of  hostility. 
The  Padres  dread  l)loo<lshr<l.  They  rxalt  the  imaije  of  "  Onr 
Lady  ;"  the  subdu.'d  savat;es  prostrate  thems.dves  m  .to'v  t- 
around  the  standard  ;  allow  them  without  -uterruption  to  pro, 
ceed  with  the  solemn  ceremonies  of  foundin<<  the  mission  ol 
San  Gabriel  ;  and  the  swelling  notes  ot  the  first  Masschante.l 
in  these  solitudes,  mount  to  the  ear  of  the  Omnipot..nt  in  the 
year  1771,  f'om  a  little  group  consisting  o(  the  Pa.lres,  the 
rude  soldiers,  the  careless  muleteers  and  wandering  Indians, 
gathered  under  the  spreading  boughs  of  a  tr.-c  on  the  conse- 
crated  ground,  just  as  the  sun  is  rising  to  bring  the  anniversary 
of  the  nativity  of  the  Virgin. 

The   Padres  have   now  divided  their  forces  as  much  aa 
practicable.     No  more  missions  can  be  founded  till  help  ar- 
rives  from  Mexico  ;  and  oppressed  with  care,  labor,  hunger, 
and  anxiety,  lest  the  Indians  should  relapse  into  their  hea- 
thenish belief  and  practices,  they  remain  with  little  to  en- 
couracre  their  minds,  or  strengthen  their  fainting  hearts,  until 
the  autumn  of  1772,  when  Padre  Junipero  founds  the  mis.sion 
San  Luis  Obispo  deTolozo,  and  in  November  embarks  at  San 
Diego   for  Mexico.     There   he  struggles  with  the  Viceroy 
Bucareli  to  prevent  him,  if  possible,  from  abandoning  the  port 
of  San  Bias  as  a  naval  station  ;  and  so  successfully  presents 
the  cause  of  the  infant  missions  to  him  that  he  is  induced  to 
finish  a  frigate  which  has  been  begun  at  San  Bias,  for  the 
purpose  of  exploring  the   coast  of  Upper  California,  and 
also  to  freight  a  packet  boat  with  provisions  for  Monterey. 
But  again  these  navigators,  on  whose  skill  so  much  depends  for 
the  comfort  and  sustaining  of  the  missions,  fail  through  igno- 
ranee,  negligence,  or  misfortune,  to  reach  the  port  of  destina- 
tion; ace"  ♦.he  packet  enters  the  bay  of  Loretto  without  her 


274 


eCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


rudder,  and  otherwise  disabled  fn  m  proceeding  on  her\oyage 
So  that  the  good  Padres,  with  their  ignorant,  helpless  de- 
pendents, are  doomed  to  another  tedio\is  famine.     For  eight 
months  they  subsist  almost  exclusively  on  a  scanty  supply  of 
milk.     But  in  the  meantime,  food  and  aid  and  kind  hearts  arc 
on  their  way  to  them  from  Mexico.     The  indefatigable  Padre 
Junipero  toils  faithfully  till  September,   1773,  when,  with 
miesionaries,  officers,  soldiers,  and  a  large  supply  of  necessa. 
ries,  consisting  of  maize,  beans,  flour  and  clothing,  to  the 
value  of  $12,000,  he  joyfully  embarks  for  California.     He 
has  also  procured  the  despatch  of  an  expedition,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Juan  Bautista  Anza,  through  the  interior 
by  the  rivers  Gila  and  Colorado,  in  order  that  the  disasters 
by  sea  which  have  so  often  overwhelmed  the  missions  with 
disappointment,  famine  and  despair,  may  in  future  be  averted 
The  good  Padre  himself  proceeds  to  San  Bias,  and  freighting 
the  packet  San  Antonio  and  the  new  frigate  Santiago  with 
his  supplies,  embarks  on  his  return  in  January  of  1774,  and 
after  forty-nme  days'  sail  puts   into    San   Diego. 

Monterey  is  the   place   of  destmation ;  and   Padre  Juni- 
pero proceeds  thither  over  land,  that  he  may  visit  the  various 
missions  on  his  route.     Anza's  land  expedition  is  there  :  and 
the  Padre  rejoices  to  learn  that  there  is  no  obstacle  to  a  land 
communicaticm  between  Mexico   and   Monterey.      But  the 
pleasure  arising  from  this  discovery  is  greatly  lessened  by  the 
announcement  that  there  are  no  provisions  among  the  people, 
and  that  famine  is  rapidly  wasting  the  energies  and  hopes  of 
his  new  establishments.     The  good  man's  heart  is  wrung  by 
this  tale  of  suffering,  and  he  hastens  on  with  a  few  supplies  ; 
but  finds  at  his  arrival   on  the  eleventh  of  May,  that  the 
frigate  he  left  in  San  Diego  is  two  days  in  advance  of  him, 
and  that  the  hungry  are  already  fed.    Joy  anu  welcome  every- 
where  meet  the  Padre  President ;   the  Friars  hail  him  as  a 
loved  brother  and  strong  companion  ;  the  poor  Indians  as  a 
father  and  protector.     Thus  strengthened  and  encouraged,  the 


lal 

un 
de 
fat 
W 
en 

CO 

As 

thi 
an 
at 

CO 

pe 
th 
ar 

CO 

fr( 
m 
C( 
ol 
V> 
of 
th 
of 

g' 
he 

n: 

ar 

m 

in 

re 

th 

tb 

is 


-L 


ACI PI  0 

(lineonhervoyage 
loiant,  helpless  de- 
famine.     For  eight 
a  scanty  supply  of 
and  kind  hearts  arc 
indefatigable  Padre 
1773,  when,  with 
supply  of  necessa* 
nd  clothing,  to  the 
for  California.     He 
cpcdition,  under  the 
through  the  interior 
that  the  disasters 
1  the  missions  with 
in  future  be  averted 
Bias,  and  freighting 
rigate  Santiago  with 
nuary  of  1774,  and 
n   Diego. 

1 ;  and  Padre  Juni- 
nay  visit  the  various 
dition  is  there :  and 
no  obstacle  to  a  land 
Monterey.  B\it  the 
jatly  lessened  by  the 
IS  among  the  people, 
lergies  and  hopes  of 
's  heart  is  wrung  by 
with  a  few  supplies ; 
th  of  May,  that  the 
s  in  advance  of  him, 
r  and  welcome  every- 
Friars  hail  him  as  a 
he  poor  Indians  as  a 
i  and  encouraged,  the 


f 


TRAVELP      IN       THE      CALIK0RNIA8. 


270 


laborers  of  the  cross  toil  on.  Meantime  the  frigate,  which  is 
under  orders  from  the  Viceroy  to  explore  the  northwest  coast, 
departs  from  Monterey  on  the  eleventh  of  June,  proceeds  aa 
far  as  Lat.  55'^  N..  and  finds  an  inlet  which  they  name  Santa 
Margarita,  and  returns.  Ii  March  of  the  next  year,  she  raakea 
Another  expedition,  accompanied  by  a  schooner  under  the 
comnLand  of  Bodega,  afterwards  the  friend  of  Vancouver. 
As  these  vessels,  however,  are  separated  in  a  gale  on  the 
tiiirtieth  of  July,  the  frigate  proceeds  to  Lat.  49^  N., 
and  puts  back  in  search  of  the  lost  schooner ;  arriving 
at  Monterey  on  the  twentieth  of  August,  she  finds  her 
consort  riding  at  anchor  in  the  bay.  The  failure  of  these  ex- 
peditions seems  rather  to  stimul?.te  than  cool  the  enterprise  of 
the  Viceroy.  He  orders  a  new  frigate  to  be  built  at  San  Bias, 
and  sends  a  naval  officer  to  Peru  to  purchase  a  vessel  to  ac 
company  her  over  these  vexed  waters.  These  vessels  sail 
from  San  Bias  on  the  twelfth  of  February,  1779,  under  com- 
mand of  Don  Ignatio  Artiago.  Two  missionaries  from  the 
Convent  of  San  Fernando  accompany  the  expedition.  The 
object  of  the  voyage  is  to  discover  a  water  passage  from  the 
Pacific  to  the  Atlantic.  They  reach  Lat.  55^  N.  on  the  third 
of  June,  and  discover  a  "trait  which  they  call  Bucareli.  Here 
they  look  in  vain  for  a  passage  eastward  ;  and  about  the  first 
of  July  proceed  still  farther  northward.  On  the  first  of  Au- 
gust, in  about  Lat.  60="  N.,  they  discover  a  large  and  safe 
harbor,  with  abundance  of  wood,  water,  and  fish.  This  they 
name  Santiago  ;  and  after  spending  several  days  in  searching 
an  inconsiderable  creek  for  the  passage,  the  prudent  com- 
mander, finding  his  crew  infected  with  the  scurvy  to  an  alarm- 
ing degree,  and  dreading  the  rigor  of  the  advancing  season, 
resolves  to  return.  Accordingly  he  sails  southward,  and  on 
th-  fifteenth  of  September,  1779,  safely  moors  his  little  fleet  in 
the  harbor  oi  San  Fernando.  The  return  of  this  expedition 
is  hailed  as  a  momentous  event  in  the  progress  of  the  conquest. 
While  the  civil  arm  is  thus  extending  itself  over  the  unex 
plored  wilderness,  the  spiritual  warriors  lose  none  of  their 


-I 


279 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACIFIC. 


ardor  The  accession  of  laborers  and  the  abundant  supplies 
brought  by  the  Padre  President  enable  the  missionaries  to 
prosecute  their  holy  enterprise  with  renewed  energy.  New 
mission!,  jre  founded,  the  old  ones  zealously  advanced.  Con* 
verts  are  added  to  the  flock,  and  everything  encourages 
the  hearts  of  the  lonely  self-sacrificing  Padres.  In  the 
fall  of  the  year,  1775,  however,  a  most  diabolical  plot  is  laid 
and  partly  executed  by  the  unc^nvcrtc;!  Indians  aided  by  two 
apostates,  for  attacking  S:.n  Diego,  and  murdering  the  mis- 
sionaries and  other  white  persons.  The  onset  is  made  in  the 
dead  of  night,  by  two  strong  bands  of  armed  savages ;  and 
the  good  Padres,  all  unprepared  for  defence  as  they  are,  with 
their  feeble  force  of  a  few  soldiers  and  mechanics,  have  but 
a  small  chance  of  escape.  One  of  them,  the  Padre  Luis,  is 
cruelly  murdered  and  chopped  in  pieces,  and  Padre  Vincente 
is  dangerously  wounded.  A  whole  night  is  spent  in  this  pre- 
carious defence,  and  at  sunrise  the  Indians  retire,  carrying 
away  their  dead  and  wounded.  All  the  whites  are  wounded, 
some  of  their  buildings  are  burned,  and  their  peaceful  in- 
tercourse with  the  Indians  is  sadly  interrupted. 

The  Padre  President  at  Monterey  hears  of  this  calamity,  and 
resolves  to  proceed  at  once  to  San  Diego  to  repair,  as  he  best 
may,  the  misfortunes  of  his  brethren.  He  is  prevented  from 
reaching  them  until  June  of  the  following  year ;  when  with 
the  aid  of  the  crew  of  the  Princesa,  he  re-builds  the  burned 
tenements,  and  by  his  influence  renews  the  amicable  inter- 
course of  the  mission  with  the  natives.  On  his  return,  he 
founds  the  mission  of  San  Juan  Capistrano.  Here  he  is  at- 
tacked by  hostile  Indians.  But  he  escapes  all  dangers,  en- 
dures all  trials,  and  on  reaching  Monterey,  prepares  to  establish 
the  mission  of  San  Francisco,  on  the  bay  of  that  name.  Great 
preparations  are  made  for  this  event.  Supplies  are  sent  to 
the  harbor  of  San  Francisco  in  one  of  the  packet  boats,  and 
the  good  Padre  with  a  small  detachment  of  soldiers,  and  a 
number  of  families  with  cattle  and  mules  for  the  new  mission, 
leaves  Monterey  on  the  seventeenth  of  June,  1776.    Ten  davi 


r 


. 


b. 

w 
T 

pf 
so 

pi 

hi: 

an 
un 
th( 
inj 

Nc 
to 


JL. 


IC. 

ibundant  suppliei 
5  missionaries  to 
d  energy.    New 
advanced.     Con« 
hing   encourages 
Padree.      In  the 
bolical  plot  is  laid 
lians  aided  by  two 
lurdering  the  mis- 
iset  is  made  in  the 
ined  savages ;  and 
;  as  they  are,  with 
echanics,  have  but 
the  Padre  Luis,  is 
,nd  Padre  Vincente 
IS  spent  in  this  pre- 
ns  retire,  carrying 
vhites  are  wounded, 
their  peaceful  in- 
rupted. 

)f  this  calamity,  and 
to  repair,  as  he  best 
[e  is  prevented  from 
y  year ;  when  with 
re-builds  the  burned 
the  amicable  inter- 
On  his  return,  he 
tno.    Here  he  is  at- 
pes  all  dangers,  en- 
,  prepares  to  establish 
of  that  name.    Great 
Supplies  are  sent  to 
the  packet  boats,  and 
ent  of  soldiers,  and  a 
s  for  the  new  mission, 
une,  1776.    Tendavi 


r 


TRAVELS      IN       THE       CAl,  IFOKNiAS. 


277 


nvB,  and  they  arrive  near  the  proposed  site  of  their  future 
hn-ne  CD  the  banks  of  a  beautiful  lake  near  one  of  the  arms 
o^'the  bay,  select  a  situation  for  the  Presidio,  and  cut  the  tim- 
b«r  to  erect  it.  The  natives,  meanwhile,  throng  around  to 
witness  their  labors  and  make  demonstrations  of  friendship. 
The  vessel  arrives  on  the  eighteenth  of  August.  The  work 
progresses,  and  on  the  seventeenth  of  September,  they  take 
solemn  possession  of  the  new  garrison.  The  holy  cross  is 
planted  above  the  peaceful  waters  of  the  bay,  and  the  silent 
hills  re-echo  the  chanting  of  the  Mass,  the  sublime  Te  Deum 
and  the  roar  of  artillery  and  musketry,  announcing  to  the 
untamed  tenants  of  the  valderness,  the  dominion  at  once  of 
the  cross  and  the  sword.  The  same  ceremonies  attend  the  tak- 
ing possession  of  the  mission  on  the  ninth  of  the  following 
November.  These  objects  accomplished,  the  vessel  returns 
to  San  Bias. 

The  faithful  Padre  Junipero  continues  his  labors  without 
ceasing,  founding  in  addition  to  the  missions  already  named, 
those  of  Santa  Clara,  Santa  Barbara,  and  San  Buenaventura. 
But  his  efforts  draw  to  a  close.  He  has  thrown  the  gushing 
energies  of  a  warm  and  kind  heart  upon  the  arid  wilderness. 
Solitude,  famine,  heat  and  cold,  thirst  and  hunger,  have  been 
welcome  as  the  sole  conditions  under  which  he  could  perform 
his  errand  of  mercy  and  love  to  the  red  man.  And  now  that 
the  holy  cross  which  his  hands  have  planted,  gleams  heaven- 
ward from  the  dark  bosom  of  these  wastes,  and  devotion 
blends  its  gentle  tones  with  ti;e  harsher  poeans  of  the  winds 
and  waves,  and  the  voices  of  human  industry,  the  good  Padre, 
worn  out  with  the  fatigues  and  anxieties  of  his  arduous  post, 
must  prepare  to  rest  from  his  labors.  The  hand  of  age  is 
upon  him ;  his  head  whitens ;  his  frame  bends  and  trembles ; 
his  steps  falter ;  he  leans  upon  his  younger  and  more  vigor- 
ous brethren  for  support ;  and  at  last  his  grateful  and  beloved 
spiritual  children,  the  sons  of  the  forest,  see  him  no  more  He 
retires  to  die.  His  heart  clings  to  those  who  have  so  long 
lived  under  the  protection  of  his  fostering  hand,  and  tlie  laa* 


•i?« 


B  C  E  N  F.  8      IN 


•r  ji  E     PA  c  i  r  I  c  . 


r 


.vn    HATES    OF    THEIR    FOUNDATION 
NAMES   OF   MISSIONS,   AND   DATES   O* 


Date  of  Foundation. 

1769,       • 

i:70, 

1771, 
(i 

1772, 

1776, 

1777, 

1779, 

1782, 

1786, 

1787, 

1791, 

1794, 

1797, 
(( 

u 
(t 

1798, 
1817, 
1822, 


Missions. 
San  Diego,     [de  Monterey. 
SanCarmelo,or  San  Carloi 

San  Gabriel. 

San  Antonio  tie  Padua. 

San  Luis  Obispo. 

San  Juan  Capistrano. 

Santa  Clara. 

San  Francisco 

Santa  Buenaventura. 

Santa  Barbara. 

La  Purissima  Concepcion. 

NaSade  la  Soledad. 
,     Santa  Cruz. 
.    Snn  Miguel. 
.     San  Jose. 
.    ,San  Juan  Bantista. 

-  San  Fernando. 

.     San  Luis  Rey  de  Franm 

-  San  Rafael. 

.     San  Francisco  Solano. 


to  1820  sow  an  immense  quanUty  o  W«  a 

Xaaand  British  ships  '^'f  ,,'''!*''2  Tcalifornia  .s  .» 

point.     Previous  to  1793  the  f  aore 


of 
on 
un' 

ms 
th( 
otl 

•lis 
ail 
frc 
lo 
fh 
la 

M 
T 

P 

q 

n 

ti 

tl 
n 
t 
i 
t 

1 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFORNIAS. 


279 


IV. 


?ssing!*  ^n 


hi!)  m 

iiis  last  bredVh  and 

in  the  year  1782. 

long ;  nl'ty-tnree 

thirty-five  in  the 

the  New  World. 

idre  Junipero 

rOUNDATION 

ions. 

[de  Monterey. 
Tielo,or  SanCarloi 
)riel. 

onio  de  Padua. 
s  Obispo, 
n  Capistrano. 

lara. 

incisfo 

iuenaventura. 

Barbara. 

rissima  Concepcioa 

de  la  Soledad. 

Cruz. 

[Iguel. 

)se. 

ian  Bantista. 

'ernando. 

,uis  Rey  de  Franc» 

lafael. 

i'rancisv'o  Solano. 

ry  rich,  and  from  1793 
lies  and  tallow  to  Ame- 
the  coast.  An  aneo- 
nan  in  California  is  in 
filled  the  surplus  bulb 


I 


of  their  herds,  saving  the  hides,  and  leaving  the  tal.ow  to  rot 
on  the  plains;  because  it  was  an  article  difficult  to  preserve 
until  foreign  ships  should  begin  to  vl.sit  them  and  furnish  a 
market ;  and  thus  untold  quantities  of  it  were  lost.     One  o 
the  Padres,  however,  who  had  a  little  more  chemistry  and 
other  worldly  wisdom  than  his  brethren,  caused  his  Indians  to 
dig  a  very  large  and  deep  vat  in  the  earth  on  a   shaded  spot, 
and  line  it  well  with  brick  and  a  durable  cement,  in  which 
from  year  to  year,  as  his  bulls  were  killed,  he  stored  his  tal- 
low •  and  thus  continued  to  do,  till  the  trading  ships  called  for 
the  deposit ;  when  it  was  found  that  his  vat  contained  three 
large  cargoes  of  excellent  tallow. 

The  catllt^  in  the  missions  at  this  period  were  very  numerous. 
Most  of  them  had  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  thousand  each. 
They  also  had  bands  of  horses  and  other  kinds  of  stock  pro- 
portionably  large.     The  Padres  of  a  single  mission  not  untre- 
quently  purchased  an  entire  cargo  of  goods  from  American 
merchants— and  such  were  the  known  resources  of  their  es. 
tablishments,  and  their  uniform  punctuality  and  honesty,  that 
these  cargoes  were  frequently  delivered  to  the  priests  with 
no  ot-her  security  than  their  verbal  promise  to  pay.     Indeed, 
these  old  Franciscan  Friars,  who  ("ntered  this  wilderness  clad 
in  their  grey  habits  with  sandals  on  their  feet  and  the  cross  in 
thek  hands,  were  men  for  whose  ecpials  in  mental  power,  in 
physical  courage  and  moral  intrepidity,  we  shall  seek  in  vain 
in  "these  days  of  vapid  benevolence,  of  organizations   wbick 
spend  their  money  in  sustaining  a  system  of  denunciation, 
instead  of  applying  it  with  <iay-laboring  energy  for  the  extir- 
pation of  the  evils  against  which  they  inveigh.  These  men  had 
not  made  addresses  before  the  assemblies  of  anniversary  occa- 
sions,  but  had  wielded  the  pruning  hook  of  holy  truth  and  of 
the  principles  of  the  social  state,  and  of  the  refining  and  ex- 
alting  virtues,  upon  the  unpruned    territories  of  degraded 
human  nature.     They  had  not  bewailed  the  woes  of  men  at 
the  point  of  a  goose-quill,  and  from  the  dark  walls  of  a  com- 
plaining  lieai  t  shut  up  in  an  indolent  body,  sent  forth  a  sack 


£80 


SCENES      IN       THE       PACiriC 


of  theories  for  alleviation,  which  the  world  must  adopt  bf  fo 
a  freezing  hand  can  be  warmed  or  a  hungry  mouth  filled 
But  they  had  bared  their  hearts  to  the  arrow  of  the  savage 
and  gone  out  to  the  theatre  of  personal  labor,  driving  before 
them  domestic  animals  bearing  seed-grain,  the  plough,  the 
axe,  the  spinning-wheel  and  the  loom,  gathering  the  stupid 
wandering  Indians  into  communities,  rearing  the  edifices  of 
Christianity  and  the  family  condition  on  the  shore  of  that 
great  ocean  girded  with  heathenism  and  wretchedness,  opening 
its  unploughed  plains  and  training  them  to  yield  their  increase  tc 
nourish  the  body — and  from  the  garner  of  Heaven  drawing  man- 
na for  the  soul.  They  did  not  teach  religion  only  and  at  all  times, 
and  rely  on  that  as  a  nutriment  for  the  rearing  and  comfort  of 
the  whole  man.  On  the  contrary,  they  recognized  in  the  human 
being  a  nature  allied  to  matter  as  well  as  spirit ;  with  faculties 
which  connect  him  as  a  material  existence  with  his  material 
abode,  and  powers  of  mind  which  were  made  to  teach  him 
his  relations  to  the  material  world,  as  well  as  those  which 
raise  the  hand  of  religious  faith  to  the  skies,  to  seize  the 
hope  of  the  after  world.  Like  knowing  and  reasoning,  as 
well  as  pious  men,  they  cared  for  the  bodies  as  well  as  the 
souls  of  those  whom  they  went  to  convert  to  Christianity. 
And  in  bringing  the  Californian  savages  into  that  industry 
which  must  always  accompany  true  virtue  and  piety,  tht 
labor  of  the  converts  produced  in  that  climate,  where  so  littU 
is  required  to  sustain  tnem  during  unproductive  seasons,  a  vast 
amount  of  surplus  wealth.  This  the  Padres  alone  were  capa- 
ble of  throwing  into  the  market ;  and  consequently,  at  the 
period  just  spoken  of,  the  business  of  the  Californias  received 
its  origin,  its  character  and  impulses  from  them.  Society  from 
them  took  its  form  and  its  tone ;  and  the  Government  of  the 
country  was  as  mild,  wise  and  just,  as  these  unpretending 
men  who  directed  its  action.  The  golden  age  was  this  of  the 
Calif'--  HM-s.  The  Indians  in  the  whole  of  Lower,  and  that 
part  of  Upper  California  which  lies  between  the  first  range 
of  mountams  and  he  sea,  and  extending  from  San  Diego  t.'- 


PIC 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFORNIA. «, 


281 


must  adopt  bffo 
ngry  mouth  filled 
row  of  the  savage 
or,  driving  before 
n,  the  plough,  the 
ithering  the  stupid 
ing  the  edifices  of 
,  the  shore  of  that 
;tchedness,  opening 
eld  their  increase  to 
javendrawingman- 
)nly  and  at  all  times, 
ring  and  comfort  of 
Tnized  in  the  human 
pirit ;  with  faculties 
B  with  his  material 
I  made  to  teach  him 
ell  as  those  which 

skies,  to  seize  the 
;  and  reasoning,  as 
jdies  as  well  as  the 
vert  to  Christianity, 
es  into  that  industry 
irtue  and  piety,  tht 
mate,  where  so  littU 
active  seasons,  a  vast 
Ires  alone  were  capa- 
consequently,  at  the 

Californias  received 
1  them.  Society  from 
le  Government  of  the 
s  these  unpretending 
en  age  was  this  of  the 
B  of  Lower,  and  that 
tween  the  first  range 
g  from  San  Diego  v. 


the  rtorth  till  it  embraces  the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  San  I'Van- 
cisco,  were  gathered  into  missions  ;  not  less  than  seventy-five 
thousand  of  them  were  living,  laboring  and  worshipping 
God  with  the  Padres  on  those  immense  plantations !  Their 
granaries  were  filled  with  grain,  their  orchards  were  laden  with 
oranges,  plums,  pears,  citrons,  lemons,  apples  and  figs.  Their 
vineyards  covered  the  hill-sides,  and  their  flocks  and  herds  the 
plains  !  If  a  stranger  arrives  in  the  Californias,  and  approaches 
a  mission,  the  Indians  and  Padres  go  out  to  meet  him !  He  re- 
ceives the  welcome  of  sincere  hearts.  The  wine  from  the 
vineyards — the  bread  and  beef  and  frixoles  are  placed  before 
him,  and  the  Padre's  best  bed  given  him.  He  is  pressed  to  re- 
main, not  a  cold  hour  of  freezing  ceremony  and  suspicion,  but 
months — during  life  if  hi-,  will — in  their  hospitable  abode.  But 
if  he  will  travel  on,  he  is  furnished  with  horses  and  attendants  to 
the  next  mission,  where  he  is  again  welcomed  and  treated  in  a 
similar  manner,  and  thus  he  journeys  through  the  entire  country 
.f  he  desires,  and  leaves  it  with  regret.  But  the  history  of  this 
Jelit^htful  realm  shows  a  change  in  the  features  of  this  scene. 

In  1821,  New  Spam  had  achieved  an  independent  national 
existence,  and  adopted  a  partially  republican  form  of  govern- 
ment. The  Californias,  removed  by  their  geographical  situa- 
tion, as  well  as  the  feelings  of  their  people,  from  the  wars  and 
victories  of  that  eventful  crisis,  had  retained  their  loyalty  to 
old  Spain  until  as  late  as  the  year  1825,  when  General 
Echuandra  arrived  in  Monterey  with  full  powers  to  receive 
the  submission  of  California  to  the  authorities  of  the  Mexi- 
can Republic. 

The  first  act  of  this  functionary  was  to  require  of  the  Pa- 
dres to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  new  Government. 
This  they  couIq  not  do  according  to  the  rules  of  their  Order, 
without  the  consftit  of  their  Prefecto — the  Padre  President. 
This  priest  declared  himself  unwilling  to  give  his  consent 
until  his  King  had  abandoned  the  sovereignty  of  the  Califor- 
nias ;  whereupon  General  Echuandra  arrested  him,  conveyed 
(tim  to  Monterey,  and  banished  him  to  Manilla. 


as2 


K  (    E  N  E  S 


N       T  H  K       PACIFIC 


Immi'diately  aftt-r  tin;  Piidre  Prefecto's  banislinicii  ,  Eo'fivi. 
andra  made  a  tour  of  the  missions,  assembled  the  Itidijos  in 
each,  and  by  an  interpreter,  explained  to  them  that  the  Mexi- 
can Government  had  directed  him  to  declare  the  Indian  con- 
verts of  the  Caliibrnias  to  be  free  citizens  of  the  Mexican 
Republic — released  thereafter  from  what  he  termed  slavery  to 
the  Patkes,  and  subject  only  to  the  laws  of  the  nation  and  his 
commands  as  its  official  agent ;  aud  that  all  those  who  bore 
good  characters,  and  had  learned  agriculture,  or  any  of  the 
useful  arts  by  which  they  could  gain  a  livelihood  for  them- 
selves and  families,  he  was  instructed  to  say  were  entitled  to 
have  lands  assigned  them  on  the  mission  premises,  and  a  pro- 
portionate quantity  of  the  animals,  as  cattle,  horses,  &c., 
and  be  gathered  into  parishes  with  Padres  to  superintend  them 
who  should  be  subject  to  the  missions ;  that  those  of  them, 
who  had  not  learned  agriculture,  or  other  useful  art,  or  had 
not  sustained  reputable  characters,  must  remain  at  the 
missions  and  earn  by  their  increasing  knowledge  and  virtu" 
a  title  to  freedom  and  the  rights  of  property.  The  Padres 
were  required  to  aid  in  carrying  out  these  mandates  of  the 
Republic,  and  at  ihe  same  time  to  continue  their  work  of 
converting  and  training  the  Indians  for  the  civil  and  social 
state  contemplated  by  the  Government.  Meantime  the  General 
informed  the  Padres  that  their  yearly  stipend  of  four  hundred 
dollars  would  be  indefinitely  withheld ;  ordered  them  to  have 
bells  rung  whenever  he  approached  the  missions  ;  and  to  in- 
struct the  converts  that  they,  as  well  as  themselves,  were 
subject  to  his  authority. 

This  course  of  the  Mexican  Government  appears  on  ita 
face  to  be  one  of  those  high  moral  act"  which  a  single  age 
seldom  sees  twice  performed.  The  Creator  has  sent  down  to 
us,  through  the  train  of  ages,  the  evidence  that  in  the  begin- 
ning He  created  as  great  a  variety  of  the  human  genus  as  He 
did  of  any  other  race  of  living  beings.  From  the  New  Hol- 
lander, who  is  connected  to  our  kind  by  a  physical  form  but 
little  superior  to  that  of  the  ape,  and  by  the  i»stinct  and  3a- 


isbnien  ,  E«'.f<«l« 

the  liiJ'uns  in 
1  that  the  Mexi* 
the  Indian  con- 
of  the  Mexican 
ermed  slavery  to 
le  nation  and  his 
those  who  bore 
e,  or  any  of  the 
ilihood  for  thtm- 

•were  entitled  to 
mises,  and  a  pro- 
ttle,  horses,   &c., 

superintend  them 
it  those  of  them, 
isefnl  art,  or   had 
t  remain    at    the 
vkdge  and  virtu- 
erty.    The  Padres 
;  mandates  of  the 
inue  their  work  of 
le  civil  and  social 
;antime  the  General 
nd  of  four  hundred 
dered  them  to  have 
lissions ;  and  to  in- 
,s  themselves,  were 

lent  appears  on  its 
which  a  single  age 
tor  has  sent  down  to 
cc  that  in  the  begin- 
human  genus  as  He 
From  the  New  Hol- 
a  physical  form  but 
iht  i»stinct  and  sa- 


TRAVKLS      IN       THK      CAL«rORWIA»> 


283 


pacity  to  build  a  fire  to  warm  his  frame  when  beset  with  cold— 
to  the  Negro— the  Hottentot— the  Indian— the  Asiatic  and 
the  European  species,  there  is  a  gradual  developnitnt  of  beauty 
and  capacity  of  body  and  mind,  which  forces  us  to  think  that 
the  same  harmonious  variety  was  introduced  into  the  creation 
of  the  human  tamily,  which  is  so  manifest  in  other  orders  of 
the  animal  world.     Among  celestial  intelligences,  toe,  there 
are  greater  and  lesser  stars  of  existence  ;  and  the  Great  Ma- 
kir  burns  above  them  all.     Such  variety  is  a  palpable  fact  on 
earth.     The  highest  obedience  to  God  is  the  recognition  of 
Him  in  His  own  character,  and  of  creation  as  it  fell  from  His 
hands  ;  and  having  done  these  things  dutifully,  to  place  our- 
selves in  the  ordained  relation  to  the  external  world,  to  other 
men,  to  ourselves  and  to  Him.     One  of  the  noblest  acts  in 
this  line  of  obedience  is  to  say  to  those  who  are  for  wise 
purposes  made  inferior  to  us,  be  free — be  men.     And  if  we 
had  no  other  sources  of  information  from  which  to  learn  the 
real  nature  and  intent  of  the  course  of  the  Mexican  Govern- 
ment towards  these  Mission  Indians,  we  should  place  it  among 
the  noblest  deeds   of  men.     But  unfortunately   it  deserves 
equal  distinction  of  an  opposite  character.     Let  succeeding 
events  be  heard  in  evidence. 

These  declarations  of  Echuandra  and  the  banishment  of 
their  Prefecto,  diminished  the   Padres'   hopes  of  perfecting 
what  they  had  so  gloriously  begun— the  rearing  the  Indian 
population  by  degrees  to  the  labors,  the  thoughts,  the  religion 
and  happiness  of  civilisation.     They  well  understood  what  all 
men  will  eventually  come  to  know,  that  an  ignorant,  stupid 
species  of  the  human  kind,  never  was  and  never  can  be  free 
before  their  stupidity  and  ignorance  are  removed ;  that  the 
introduction  of  such  people  as  civil  agents  among  a  body 
of   citizens  of    the  higher   species,  who    sustain    the  re- 
spoi/sibilities  of  advanced  society,  is  attended  with  no  good 
to  aay  party ;  but  on  the  contrary,  attaches  to  the  acts  and 
thoughts  of  the  higher,  advancing  and  thinking  species,  the 
antagonism  of  the  unthinking,  the  indolent  and  degrading  in- 


2K4 


BCKNGA         N       THfc       PACIFIC 


ferior,  whose  influence  can  only  be   to  weaken   the  moral 
power  of  their  superiors,  and  draw  them  off  with  all  the  force 
of  physical  indulgence  to  the  confines  of  barbarism.     They 
perceived,  indeed,  that  freedom  to  their  converts,  from  their 
paternal  restraints,  was  only  an  illusive  synonyme  of  annihi- 
lation ;  that  they  would,  when  removed  from  the  action  of  a 
superior  intelligence,  return  to  the  savage  state,  or  use  their 
liberty  in  following  their  strongest  instincts,  which,  after  all 
their  labors,  were  towards  vices  alike  ruinous  to  bodily  and 
moral  health.     The  Padres,  for  nil  these  causes,  became  dis- 
couraged, and  made  less  effort  for  the  temporal  enlargement 
of  their  missions.     The  departure  of  their  best  neophytes  to 
the  lands  assigned  them  by  the  Government,  left  them  only 
the  refractory  and  the  ignorant  to  work  the  lands,  guard    ne 
herds  and  flocks,  and  manufacture  the  cloth,  leather  and  wine , 
and  these  being  encouraged  by  Erhuandra,  nec;]ected  then 
labor,  and  insulted  the  Padres  when  punished  for  so  doing. 
They  even  went  in  bodies  to  Echuandra  and  complained  that 
the  Padres  insisted  that  they,  the  fteo  citizens  of  the  Mexican 
Republic,  ought  to  cultivate  the  raission  farms ;  and  the  Gen- 
eral encouraged  them  in  their  folly.     They  informed  him  that 
the  Padres  withheld  their  rations,  unless  they  cultivated  the 
land  to  raise  a  new  supply ;  and  Echuandra  assured  them  they 
had  reason  for  dissatisfaction.     And  on  one  occasion,  when  a 
Padre  was  insisting  on  obedience  to  these  wholesome  regula- 
tions by  which  they  had  been  elevated  from  the  most  abject 
barbarism  to  the  comforts  of  a  partially  civilized  state,  the 
deluded  creatures  threw  him  violently  upon  the  ground,  and 
otherwise  abused  him.      This,  Echuandra  assured  them,  was 
an  act  worthy  of  a  citizen  of  the  Mexican  Republic. 

While  the  Padres  were  thus  seeing  the  mission  plantations 
becoming  covered  with  weeds,  the  buildings  going  to  ruin, 
their  influence  over  the  converts  lessening,  and  these,  their 
spiritual  children,  given  to  drunkenness,  gambling,  theft,  and 
lasciviousness,  a  party  of  young  Friars  from  the  Convent  of 
San  Fernando,  in  Mexico,  were  distributed  among  some  of 


r 


c . 

ktn  the  moral 
ith  all  the  force 
rbarism.  They 
krerts,  from  their 
lyme  of  annihi- 

the  action  of  a 
;ate,  or  use  their 
which,  after  all 
IS  to  bodily  and 
ises,  became  dis- 
ral  enlargement 
est  neophytes  to 
,  left  them  only 
lands,  guard  ne 
eather  and  wine , 

neglected  theii 
ed  for  so  doing. 

complained  that 
is  of  the  Mexican 
IS ;  and  the  Gen- 
nformed  him  that 
ley  cultivated  the 
issured  them  they 
occasion,  when  a 
holesome  regula- 
Q  the  most  abject 
ivilized  state,  the 
1  the  ground,  and 
issured  them,  was 
lepublic. 

nission  plantations 
gs  going  to  ruin, 
,  and  these,  their 
imbling,  theft,  and 
m  the  Convent  of 
d  among  some  of 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIFORNIAS, 


285 


the  missions,  and  the  Padres  resident  commanded  to  in- 
Btruct  them  in  the  Indian  languages  and  other  matters 
which  would  prepare  them  to  supplant  their  teachers.  The  in- 
fluence and  usefulness  of  these  excellent  men  was,  by  these 
measures,  rapidly  undermined,  till  the  year  1827,  when  two 
of  them.  Padres  Repol  and  Alteraira,  of  the  mission  Santa 
Barbara,  fearing  for  their  personal  safety,  secretly  left  the 
country  in  an  American  vessel  bound  to  Boston,  and  sailed 
from  that  city  to  Spain.  In  the  year  1835,  others  left  with 
passports  from  Government,  and  went  through  Mexico  to 
Spain ;  and  others,  worn  out  with  labor  and  sorrow,  died  in 
the  country  and  were  buried  under  the  churches  of  their 
missions. 

In  the  same  year  a  body  of  Franciscan  monks  from  the  Col- 
lege at  Zacatecas,  were  sent  into  the  Californias  by  the  Gov- 
ernment. To  these  were  assigned  the  rich  missions  lying 
north  of  San  Antonio,  The  old  Padres  retained  the  poorer  ones 
lying  to  the  South.  Thither  these  good  old  priests  retired, 
banished  from  the  missions  they  had  reared,  and  deprived  of 
the  means  of  comfort  which  they  had  procured  ;  and  now,  in 
those  inhospitable  places,  they  continue  to  perform  their  spirit- 
ual functions,  deprived  in  their  old  age  not  only  of  the  com- 
forts, but  of  the  very  necessaries  of  life.  Aged  men,  tottering 
grey-headed  men ;  men  who  had  in  youth  left  the  abodes  of 
civilized  life  ;  who  had  forsaken  father,  mother,  kindred,  and 
for  forty  years  toiled  in  the  Californian  wilderness ;  plough- 
ed the  soil,  built  churches  and  dwellings ;  brought  into  life, 
justice  and  hope  and  music  and  prayer  to  the  God  of  the  Uni- 
verse ;  under  whose  hands  the  trees  of  virtue  and  civilisa- 
tion flourished,  adorning  the  hitherto  barren  wastes  of  mat- 
ter and  soul ;  such  were  the  men  condemned  by  a  selfish 
anarchy  to  wretchedness  and  want.  But  a  policy  so  blind 
brings  evil  as  its  legitimate  result. 

In  1835,  the  whole  power  of  the  priests  over  the  temporal 
affairs  of  these  establishments,  in  both  the  Californias,  was 
transferred  to  officers  of  government  called  Admmistradores. 


988 


■  CENE8      IN      THE      PACiriC. 


One  of  these  wiis  lorntcd  at  each  mission.  Their  duties  osten* 
•il)ly  were  to  farm  them  for  the  benefit  of  the  converts,  in  order 
to  allow  the  Padres  their  whole  time  for  their  spiritual  hiliors. 
But  the  actual  olijeit  of  this  measure  was  to  briny  the  iiicouie 
ami  property  of  the  missions  within  the  grasp  of  the  huiij^ry 
leaches  of  the  Californian  Government.  For,  immediately  after 
the  appointment  of  these  olFicers  their  wants  became  pressing;, 
and  they  befran  to  send  orders  for  hides,  &c,,  to  the  Adminis- 
tradores,  which  were  uniformly  honored  and  passed  tothecietlit 
of  the  missions. 

Thirty  thousand  hides  and  as  many  arohas  of  tallow,  hml 
been  the  annual  export  of  this  country  ;  but  now,  a  sliiuyhter 
of  the  animals  cotnmenc«'d,  which  surpassed  the  annual  in- 
crease;  and  the  Padres  encoura<;ed  the  dtfrauded  Indians  at 
the  yearly  branding,  to  let  many  go  unmarked  and  run  wild, 
in  anticipation  of  the  approaching  period,  when  tyranny  would 
drive  them  J'rom  their  homes  to  the  wilderness.  The  ellects 
of  these  measures  were  to  decrease  the  number  of  cattle  and 
the  amount  of  the  products  of  the  missions,  paralyze  the  in- 
dustry, deteriorate  the  morals  of  the  whole  community,  and 
introduce  in  the  place  of  the  mild  and  paternal  government  of 
the  Padres,  the  oppressive  anarchy  of  a  weak  and  cruel  mili- 
tary despotism ;  the  more  despicable  in  itself,  as  it  proceeded 
from  a  source  where  liberty  and  equality  was  the  theory,  and 
slavery  and  robbery  the  practice  of  the  governing  class. 

In  the  year  1836,  a  quarrel  arose  between  the  Mexican  Go- 
vernor at  Monterey,  and  a  custom-house  officer  by  the  name  of 
Juan  Baptiste  Alvarado,  inregardto  the  division  of  certain  bribes 
■which  had  been  paid  to  the  officers  by  the  supercargo  of  a  for- 
eign ship,  as  a  remuneration  for  entering  upon  the  government 
books  only  half  of  the  cargo,  and  admitting  the  remainder  for  a 
certain  sum  in  specie  and  goods,  paid  to  themselves;  and  the  first 
result  of  the  difficulty  was  a  revolutionary  movement  under 
Alvara<lo  and  Graham,  as  I  have  heretofore  related.  But  it  is 
necessary  here  to  add  that,  after  the  surrender  of  the  Mexican 
authorities,  the  foreigners  and  Californian  Spaniards  assembled 


'_    \ 


ThAVKL*      IN       TMf.      OALiroRNIAfl. 


287 


leir  duties  oMen* 
)nv«Tts,  in  onlt-r 
Ispit'itiKil  liiliorH. 
[linn  the  iruoirn^ 
of  the  hungry 
|miu'(iiately  after 
eeaine  pressini;;, 
to  the  Adinitiis- 
sved  tothetUHlit 

5  of  tallow,  hiwl 
low,  a  sliuitrliter 
tlio   antnial   in- 
iiiiled  Indians  at 
ed  and  run  wild, 
•n  tyranny  would 
ess.     The  elleets 
)cr  of  cattle   and 
paralyze  the  in- 
;  community,  and 
al  governraen*  of 
k  and  cruel  mili- 
If,  as  it  proceeded 
IS  the  theory,  and 
rning  class, 
the  Mexican  Go- 
er by  the  name  of 
)n  of  certain  bribes 
percargo  of  a  for- 
)n  the  government 
he  remainder  for  a 
elves;  and  the  first 
movement   under 
related.     But  it  is 
ler  of  the  Mexican 
laniards  assembled 


I 


Rt  Monterey  and  passed  these  resolutions  as  the  basis  of  a  pro- 
viiiional  guverni'ient. 

1st.  Upper  California  is  declared  to  be  itidependcnt  of  Mex- 
ico during  the  non-re-establishmeiit  of  the  Federal  system, 
uhich  was  adopted  in  IH2\. 

2d.  The  said  California  shall  be  erected  into  a  free  nn<l 
governing  state,  tsfablishing  a  congress  which  shall  dictate  all 
the  particular  1.  ws  of  the  cmmtry,  and  eU'jt  the  other  supreme 
powers  necessary,  declaring  the  "  Actual  Most  Excellent  De- 
putation Constituent." 

3d.  Th(!  Keligion  shall  be  the  Roman  Catholic  Apostolic, 
without  admitting  the  exercise  of  any  other  ;  but  the  govern- 
ment will  not  molest  any  persons  for  their  particular  religious 
opinions. 

4th.  A  Constitution  shall  regulate  all  the  branches  of  the 
Administration  "  provisionally,"  in  conformity  as  much  aa 
possible  with  the  expressed  declaration. 

5th.  Until  what  is  contained  in  the  foregoing  articles  be 
put  in  execution,  Senor  Don  Guadalupe  Vallejo  shall  be 
called  to  act  as  Commandante  General. 

6th.  The  President  of  the  "  Most  Excellent  Deputation" 
shall  pass  the  necessary  communications  to  the  municipalities 
of  the  Territory. 

These  proceedings  were  followed  by  the  banishment  of  the 
Mexican  Governor,  officers  and  soldiers  from  the  country; 
the  proclamation  of  Juan  Baptiste  Alvarado,  Civil  Governor, 
and  his  uncle,  Senor  Don  Mariano  Guadalupe  Vallejo,  Military 
Governor,  or  Commandante  of  the  "  Republic  of  Upper  Cali- 
fornia." 

Meantime  this  new  Government  had  placed  the  seal  of  final 
ruin  upon  the  missions.  The  official  corps  which  had  formerly 
drawn  salaries  from  the  Central  Government  at  Mexico 
was  now  dependent  upon  the  resources  of  the  country.  The 
Revolutionists  and  Lawgivers  owned  large  plantations,  many 
of  which  grazed  ten  or  fifteen  thousand  head  of  cattle,  besides 
horses,  mules,  sheep,  &c.     But  these  were  private  property, 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC. 

not  to  be  taxed  for  public  purposes  by  these  self-denying 
patriots.     The  missions,  therefore,  were  resorted  to  for  the 
means  of  supporting  the  Californian  Government  during  the 
years  1836,  1837,  and  1838 ;  and  sad  was  the  havoc  made 
upon  them  by  those  base  descendants  of  the  Chivalry  of  Spain. 
As  soon  as  information  of  this  Revolution  in  Upper  Cali- 
fornia  reached  Mexico,  the  Central  Government,  with  Busta- 
mente  at  its  head,  and  a  kennel  of  worthless  cowards  to  bark^ 
but  never  to  bite  at  approaching  danger,  raised,  as  is  the 
custom  of  that  hybrid  nation  of  Indian  and  Spanish  Don  Quix- 
ote-Sancho-Panza-Rosinante-Windraill-Furiosos,     on     such 
occasions,  an  army  of  fulminating  proclamations  to  the  citi- 
zens of  La  Republica  Mexicana,  and  the  remainder  of  th« 
universe,  to  arm   themselves  and  proceed  in  terrible  array, 
dealing  death  elbow-deep  in  annihilation,  against  these  auda- 
cious and  unnatural  sons  of  the  great,  brave,  free,  glorious, 
and  never-to-be-insulted  or  conquered  nation  of  Mexico.  But 
these  Californians  were  true,  at  least,  to  the  weakness  and  fol- 
lies of  their  Spanish  blood.     Nowhere  on  the  vast  plains 
and  mountains  of  one-half  of  this  continent  is  there  anything 
Spanish,  whether  negro,  Indian,  mulatto,  or  mestizo,  in  which 
may  be  found  anything  stable  and  bloodless.     The  charactei 
of  these  people  may  be  summed  up  in  these  few  words :  vola 
tility,  ignorance,  stupidity  and  pride,  coupled  with  the  basest 
and  most  cowardly  cruelty.     Their  very  language  is  a  furious 
hyperbole,  and  their  entire  nature  as  a  people,  is  the  superlative 
degree  of  the  adjective  frothy,  without  a  substantive  of  any 
sort  to  qualify.     The  lofty  chivalry  of  Spain  was  buried  in  the 
tombs  of  the  American  discoverers  and  conquerors.   Its  corslet 
and  spear  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of  their  Indio-Spanish 
descendants ;  and  a  more  worthless  rabble  of  bastards  never 
assumed  the  name  of  nation. 

See  these  Californians.  No  sooner  had  they  declared  their 
independence  and  rid  themselves  of  the  officers  from 
Mexico,  than  they  divided  into  two  parties ;  the  one  in  the 
North  under  Alvarado  of  Monterey  asseiling  complete  inde* 


se  self-denjinf, 
rted  to  for  the 
ment  during  the 
;he  havoc,  made 
livalry  of  Spain. 

in  Upper  Cali- 
icnt,  with  Busta- 
cowards  to  bark, 
raised,  as  is  the 
lanish  Don  Quix- 
)sos,     on     such 
ations  to  the  citi- 
remainder  of  the 
in  terrible  array, 
gainst  these  auda- 
ve,  free,  glorious, 
n  of  Mexico.  But 
weakness  and  fol- 
n.  the  vast  plains 
t  is  there  anything 

mestizo,  in  which 
ss.     The  charactei 
;  few  words :  vola 
led  with  the  basest 
nguage  is  a  furious 
ile"^  is  the  superlative 
.  substantive  of  any 
in  was  buried  in  the 
iquerors.  Its  corslet 

their  Indio-Spanish 
B  of  bastards  never 

d  they  declared  their 

the   officers    from 

ties;  the  one  in  the 

eiling  complete  inde- 


p 
c 

til 

th 

til 

th 
cc 
C 
\l 
fr 
ol 
R 
P 
r< 
u; 
II 
n 
h 

H 
V 

(( 

ii 
a 
s 
I 

s 


u 
s 
r 
s 
ii 
c 
^ 
« 


TRAVELS       IN       THE       CALIFORNIAS. 


289 


pendente  of  Mexico ;  and  the  one  in  the  South  under  Don 
Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo,  seeking  to  unite  the  country  again  to 
the  parent  State.     And  a  blight  of  idiocy  must  have  fallen  on 
that  mind  which  cannot  perceive  in  the  events  that  ensued, 
the  terrific  tread  of  oppressed  human  nature,  when,  clad  in 
the  armor  of  its  own  avenging  power,  it  goes  forth  to  the 
conquest  of  its  rights.     The  Ides  of  March  !     How  ominous  ! 
Csesar  quailed  in  March !     And  how  much  more  ought  all 
the  enemies  of  the  great  Alvarado's  supremacy  to  have  shaken 
from  heel  to  crown,  when,  on  the  fifth  of  that  dreadful  month 
of  March,  be  announced  to  his  troops  that  Don  Pedro,  the 
Russian  Grovernor  at  Bodega,  had  received  letters  from  St. 
Petersburg,  containing  news  that  France  and  England  had 
resolved  to  place  Iturbide  II.,  son  of  the  Emperor  Iturbide  I., 
upon  the  throne  of  Mexico ! !     The  reader  may  almost  see 
His  Excellency's  wrath  kindling  at  this  proposed  encroach- 
ment on  the  liberties  of  nations.     "  What,  France  and  Eng- 
land pretend  to  foist  a  monarch  upon  the  people  of  Mexico, 
and  even  upon  His  Excellency  of  California  !" — and  that  too 
while  he  was  Governor  ?     Such  impudence,  if  it  were  not 
"  ri«liculously  impotent  as  against  Mexico,  would  be  found  so 
in  regard  to  California  ! !"     And  to  this  effort  at  patriotism 
and  self-complacency,  see  his  heroic  Californians  emitting 
some  fumes  of  bravery,  accompanied  with  a  series  of  consola- 
tory threats,  stamping  their  feet  on  the  Lord's  footstool,  and 
strongly  grasping  their  swords,  looking  things  unutterable 
enough  to  put  a  notable  end  to  the  hopes  of  Iturbide  II. 
During  this  daring  demonstration  for  freedom,  Alvarado  is 
universally  believed  to  have  stood  firmly  at  his  post,  and  un- 
shrinkingly done  his  duty.     The  Don   in  the  South   also  is 
reported  not  to  have  lost  a  meal  of  beans  on  account  of  this 
startling  intelligence.     Courage  in  California,  as  elsewhere, 
is  a  fine  tonic  for  weak  nerves.    The  event  too  which  sue 
ceeded  this  in  the  history  of  the  Californias  found  both  these 
worthies  in  the  field  of  glory.    So  that  if  some  ignorant  readei 
should  presume  to  say,  at  this  point  of  our  narration,  that  the 


890 


SCENES      IN      THE       PACIFIC. 


Don  was  less  brave,  patriotic,  or  in  any  other  sense  les»  a 
Californian  cavallero,  than  Alvarado,  he  is  desired  to  suspend 
the  expression  of  such  an  unworthy  opinion  until  he  shall 
have  read  the  following  account  of  a  campaign  which,  I  am 
credibly  informed,  is  considered  by  the  warriors  of  that  coun- 
try the  most  remarkably  glorious  on  record. 

In  the  spring  of  1838,  a  courier  arrived  from  Santa  Bar- 
bara, bearing  a  message  of  mighty  import  from  the  illustrious 
Don  Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo  to  Alvarado  the  Conqueror. 
Its  purport  was  that  the  high — mighty — invincible — and 
ever-to-be-dreaded  Central  Government  at  Mexico,  had  bared 
its  puissant  arm,  stretched  it  out,  raised  it  up,  brought  it  down, 
and  at  a  single  blow,  made  and  put  together  a  gentleman 
Don,  to  wit,  Don  Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo,  and  constituted 
him  the  Goubernador  del  Aha  California :  and  with  the  ex- 
ercise of  the  like  resistless  power  had  ordered  the  said  Alva- 
rado— villain — robber — slave — to  surrender,  lay  down,  and 
for  ever  after  eschew  the  sceptre  of  Goubernador  del  Alta 
California ;  unto  which  message  His  Excellency,  in  the  true 
Castilian  spirit,  and  with  as  much  good  sense  as  any  one  had 
a  right  to  expect  of  him,  Alvarado  the  Conqueror,  replied. 
"  On  seeing  the  commission  of  my  successor,  and  on  finding 
it  conformable  to  the  usages  of  the  Nation  ;  and  on  obtaining 
from  him  my  said  successor,  a  guaranty  of  safety  to  my  per- 
son and  property,  and  also  to  the  persons  and  property  of 
those  who  acted  with  me  in  the  -Revolution  of  1836, 1  will 
resign  the  reins  of  government  into  the  hands  of  ray  illustri- 
ous uncle.  Otherwise  not — never!"  This  response  of  the 
lofty  Alvarado  was  soon  en  route  towards  the  dwelling-place 
of  the  Don.  But  the  mountainous  character  of  the  country 
over  which  its  bearer  passed  retarded  its  speed  so  much  that 
the  sixth  day  had  well  nigh  closed  before  the  indignation  of 
that  exalted  man  was  fired  at  the  story  of  Alvarado's  inso- 
lence. It  was  fortunate,  undoubtedly,  that  so  much  time  was 
allowed  to  elapse  between  the  development  of  the  courage 
necessary  to  enable  the  Don  to  send  the  messenger  to  Alva- 


^ 


Afexi 


Tie. 

other  sense  lesR  a 
desired  to  suspend 
ion  until  he  shall 
ipaign  which,  I  am 
rriors  of  that  coun- 

il. 

d  from  Santa  Bar- 

from  the  illustrious 
do  the  Conqueror. 
y — invincible — and 
Mexico,  had  bared 
up,  brought  it  down, 
rether  a  gentleman 
Ho,  and  constituted 
I :  and  with  the  ex- 
lered  the  said  Alva- 
»der,  lay  down,  and 
Dubernador  del  Alta 
cellency,  in  the  true 
sense  as  any  one  had 
e  Conqueror,  replied, 
essor,  and  on  finding 
)n  ;  and  on  obtaining 

of  safety  to  my  per- 
sons and  property  of 
lution  of  1836, 1  will 

hands  of  my  illustri- 
This  response  of  the 
•ds  the  dwelling-place 
aracter  of  the  country 
ts  speed  so  much  that 
ore  the  indignation  of 
•y  of  Alvarado's  inso- 
that  so  much  time  was 
ipment  of  the  courage 
he  messenger  to  Alva- 


r 

1 


Mexican  CavtU'-y.—Pasfe  290.      Mexican  Iitfantry.—Page  290. 


TRi.  TELB      IN      THE      CALIFORNIA  9. 


29' 


rado,  and  that  effort  of  sublime  forbearance  reqnired  to  re- 
ceive his  answer.     For  it  is  deemed  an  established  principle 
in  the  physiology  of  courage  as  well  as  of  steamboats,  that 
too  irreat  a  pressure  upon  the  internal  surface  of  an  enclosing 
boiler  will  cause  a  bursting,  dlsasttous,  in  a  certain  sense,  to 
those  in  the  vicinity.     Soldiers  going  into  battle  for  the  first 
time  are  said  to  give  the  happiest  illustrations  of  this  law. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  however,  true  it  is,  that  when  the  courier 
related  to  him  all  that  the  Governor  had  said,  the  exalted 
Don  exhibited  a  capacity  in  the  manufacture  of  fury  at  short 
notice,  which  made  the  floor  tremble  on  which  he  stood ;  and 
it  is  currently  believed  that  if  there  had  not  been  a  hiatus  be- 
tween the  demand  of  the  Don  and  the  said  refusal  of  Alva- 
rado,  greater  danger  to  the  integrity  of  the  Don's  physical 
system  would  have  been  the  unwhol'some  consequence.    As 
it  was,  however,  that  immense  pes-sonage  merely  took  a  glass 
of  native  wine,  and  summoned  his  friends  to  arms  for  doing 
battle  in  behalf  of  La  Republica  Mexicana. 

Alarm,  that  protecting  genius  of  all  cowards,  is  declared  to 
have  a  swift  wing.    At  all  events,  no  sooner  did  the  banner 
of  the  glorious  old  Don  begin  to  flap  on  the  breezes  of  wake- 
ful night,  than  she  presented  her  fluttering  form  at  Monterey, 
and  whispered  in  the  ear  of  Alvarado,  of  power,  of  camps, 
of  carnage  fields,  of  fame's  bold  clarion,  and  the  terror  of 
his  uncle  Don.     All  these  things  put  together  made  one 
other  thing  quite  clear  to  Alvarado's  vast  comprehension ; 
namely,  that  he  must  again  take  to  the  field— the  field  in 
which  in  1836  he  had  earned  bright  laurels,  and  again  fight 
as  he  then  did,  for  country  and  freedom,  or  bow  submissively 
before  the  overpowering  valor  of  his  great  rival.     Nor  was 
his  genius  at  fault  in  this  trying  exigency.     He  took  his  reso- 
lution  ;  and  having  done  so,  what  else  could  the  world  have 
expected,  than  that  his   Excellency  and   the  never-to-be- 
equalled  Captain  Jose  Castro,  of  villainous   memory,  should 
call  the  troops  to  arms  and  march  for  the  seat  of  war.     And 
this  tb';y  certainly  did  as  nearly  as  circumstances  pevmitted  ; 


2P9 


SCENES      IN      THE      PACiriC. 


that  is  to  say,  Alvarado  remained  in  Monterey,  three  hon« 
dred  miles  from  powder  and  ball,  and  Jose  Castro  marched 
towards  Santa  Barbara  with  an  army  of  six  men. 

The  Don  meanwhile  was  not  inactive.  He  wisely  deter- 
mined, as  a  first  step,  to  take  military  possession  of  Santa 
Barbara.  Accordingly,  from  the  balcony  of  his  habitation, 
■which  the  foreign  residents  had  fitted  up  lor  him  at  El  Pueblc 
de  los  Angelos,  he  gave  notice  to  his  veteran  army  assem- 
Ijled  one  hundred  strong,  that  he  should  march  immediately 
upon  that  devoted  town  and  sack  it  according  to  the  rules  of 
war.  After  a  long  and  tedious  forced  march  on  horseback, 
of  thirty  miles,  in  a  single  day,  over  a  grassy  and  undulating 
country,  during  which  they  endured  more,  if  ^<ossible,  than 
their  forefathers  did  in  all  their  wars  with  the  Moors,  they 
arrived  on  the  20th  of  March,  1838,  upon  a  hill  about  two 
miles  from  that  village,  encamped,  held  a  council  of  war,  and 
humanely  determined  to  send  in  a  flag,  and  an  expression  of 
their  unwillingness  to  shed  blood;  but  the  messenger  was 
especially  instructed  to  announce,  that  the  town  of  Santa 
Barbara  must  be  surrendered,  or  the  veteran  army  would  take 
possession  of  it,  if,  in  so  doing,  they  "  trode  at  every  step 
upon  the  pulseless  hearts  of  the  dying  inhabitants  !" 

The  Commandant  of  the  place  was  not  so  much  frightened 
by  this  announcement  as  he  ought  to  have  been.  But,  on 
the  contrar}',  knowing  probably  that  the  old  Don  was  a  man 
of  his  word  and  not  of  deed,  sent  back  the  following  reply. 
"  Sefior  Carlos  Antonio  Carriilo  had  better  not  be  in  haste  to 
enter  Santa  Barbara.  Alvarado  will  soon  make  his  grand 
entrance.  If,  however,  the  Don  should  deem  it  his  duty  to 
sack  Santa  Barbara,  it  will  be  mine  to  yield  to  the  disagree- 
able necessity  of  preventing  such  a  catastrophe,  by  firing  on 
his  ranks  and  destroying  the  lives  of  fellow-countrymen.  God 
and  Liberty !"  This  message  was  more  terrific  than  satisfac- 
tory to  the  commander  of  the  invading  army.  But  as  night 
soon  cast  its  protecting  mantle  over  the  fierce  brows  of  the 
immortal  one  hundred,  it  was  never  known  to  the  fuilest 


I 


IC. 

erey,  three  hun* 
;  Castro  marched 
men. 

He  wisely  deter- 
isession  of  Santa 
»f  his  habitation, 
him  at  El  Pueblc. 
iran  array  assem- 
larch  immediately 
ng  to  the  rules  of 
rch  on  horseback, 
sy  and  undulating 

if  possible,  than 
1  the  Moors,  they 

a  hill  about  two 
louncil  of  war,  and 
i  an  expression  of 
he  messenger  was 
the  town  of  Santa 
in  army  would  take 
rode  at  every  step 
ibitants !" 
so  much  frightened 
ve  been.     But,  on 
)ld  Don  was  a  man 
he  following  reply, 
er  not  be  in  haste  to 
on  make  his  grand 
deem  it  his  duty  to 
ield  to  the  disagree- 
itrophe,  by  firing  on 
v-countrymen.    God 
terrific  than  satisfac- 
irmy.     But  as  night 

fierce  brows  of  the 
inown  to  the  fuilest 


r 


TKAVELB      IN      THE      CALIFORNIA  S. 


203 


I 


extent  how  much  heroism  they  exhibited  when  ordered  into 
qu&rters  for  the  night,  with  the  injunction  to  hold  themselves 
ready  for  the  dreadful  work  of  death  at  a  moment's  warning. 
It  is  however  known  that  a  mounted  pioket  guard  was  sta- 
tioned on  the  hills,  and  a  strong  patrol  along  the  ravines, 
between  the  camp  and  the  town,  and  that  all,  Napoleon-like, 
slept  upon  the  eve  of  vast  events ;  that  the  next  morning 
dawned  ;  the  earth  turned  on  its  axis,  showed  the  sun  and  hid 
it  again  ;  and  that  the  army  of  the  Don  neither  left  its  en- 
campment, nor  took  possession  of  Santa  Barbara ;  hnd  that 
night  came  again ;  that  patrols  and  pickets  were  stationed  as 
before.     But  such  apparent  inaction  was  not  to  continue 

On  the  morning  of  the  23d,  a  movement  clearly  showed  that 
irresolution  was  no  part  of  the  Don's  nature.     And  well  did 
he  exclaim,  as  he  addressed  the  soldiery  on  that  most  memora- 
ble day,—"  The  pent  firts  of  Californian  bravery,  who  can 
quench  them  1  What  one  of  us,  whether  plebeian  born  or  a  de- 
scendant of  the  Spanish  Cavaliers,  will  flee  before  the  servile 
minions    of   the    ignoble    Alvarado  ?     What  man  with  a 
heart  quickened  by  Castilian  blood,  will  not  pour  out  that 
blood  in  defence  of  California,  and  the  union  of  the  Mexican 
States  ?  "     To  this  appeal  a  response  arose  and  echoed  among 
the  hills,  in  that  hearty  and  lusty  manner  so  characteristic  of 
Spanish  Californians,  and  other  animals  distinguished  for  long 
ears.     He  next  commended  the  courage  displayed,  and  the 
valorous  exploits  performed  in  the  siege  they  were  prosecut- 
ing.    "  They  had  crowned  their  names  with  deeds  of  immor- 
tal renown."    And  then  the  officers'  swords  flamed  from  their 
scabbards,  and  the  privates  stood  shoulder  to  shoulder  in  the 
most  threatening  attitudes  of  the  genuine  warrior,  as  the  Don 
took  breath,  and  with  emphasis  remarked,  that  the  army  of 
Santa  Barbara  was  approaching  ! ! !     It  approached  ! !  !    All 
saw  it  I! !  Halted ! !  The  Don  reconnoitred ! !  and  horrible  to 
tell— the  opposing  forces  numbered  one  hundred  and  four 
noses ! !  His  own,  himself  included,  one  hundred  and  one  only ! ! ! 
A  diflFerence  of  thiee  whole  noses,  against  the  Don ! ! !     And 


294 


BCUIIES      IN       THK      PACIFIC. 


who  in  California  knew  better  than  he,  the  power  and  effect 
of  such  superiority  ?  Who  understood  more  clearly  than  the 
Don,  the  execution  which  fhat  number  of  noses  might  do  in 
the  approaching  struggle  for  "  law  and  order  ?  "  But  who, 
among  all  living  and  dead  heroes,  could  better  rally  the 
energies  required  to  meet  that  horrible  crisis,  than  the  Don  ? 
None  !  His  horse  even  partook  of  the  overpowering  mag- 
nitude of  the  energies  that  bestrode  his  back,  and  bore 
his  rider  along  the  line  with  unwonted  speed  and  fire  as  the 
order  boomed  along,  for  the  soldiers  to  prime  anew  their  pans 
—shoulder  their  gleaming  muskets,  and  retreat  within  the 
walls  of  the  Mission  Santa  Buenaventura ! ! 

Three  days  after  this  intrepid  retreat  of  the  invading  army, 
the  redoubtable  Captain  Jose  Castro  arrived  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara, with  the  army  of  the  North,  six  men  strong,  well  ap- 
pointed with  muskets,  powder,  ball,  and  Californian  patriot- 
ism. His  entr)'  was  a  triumph ;  rendered  sweet  to  that  warrior's 
heart  by  the  consciousness  of  being  looked  upon,  while  his 
army  defiled  through  the  streets,  as  the  saviour  of  all  the  mud 
walls,  tiles,  and  babies  of  that  famous  town.  He  repaired  to 
quarters  in  the  barracks,  dined  with  becoming  dignity,  and 
smoked  a  cigar.  After  this  important  business  had  been  dis- 
patched, he  summoned  before  him  the  authorities,  and  made 
an  exhibit  of  the  luxuriant  love  o(  country,  which  had  led 
Alvarado— that  superlative  adjative  of  the  genus  homo,  to 
assume  the  government  of  Alta  California,  and  assured  the 
Commandante,  and  Alcaldes,  that  he  was  authorized  and  ready 
to  receive  the  surrender  of  the  place,  and  the  fealty  of  the 
inhabitants  to  the  Revolutionary  Government.  He  added, that 
he  hoped  it  might  not  be  necessary  for  him  to  use  force  in  the 
premises.  This  latter  intimation,  backed  as  it  was  by  the 
standing  presence  of  the  army  of  six,  was  deemed  of  great 
service  to  humanity,  for  no  hesitation  was  manifested  by  the 
population,  amounting  to  some  six  hundred  souls,  about  sub- 
mitting to  the  new  order  of  things  so  gallantly  proposed  to 
them  by  the  renowned  Captain. 


c. 


)Ower  and  effect 
clearly  than  the 
ises  might  do  in 
Br'    But  who, 
Better  rally  the 
I,  than  the  Don  1 
irpowering  mag- 
back,  and  bore 
I  and  fire  as  the 
J  anew  their  pans 
streat  within  the 


le 


invading  army, 
ed  at  Santa  Bar- 
strong,  well  ap- 
alifornian  patriot- 
et  to  that  warrior's 
id  upon,  while  his 
iour  of  all  the  mud 
n.    He  repaired  to 
jming  dignity,  and 
iness  had  been  dis- 
Lhorities,  and  made 
try,  which  had  led 
;he  genus  homo,  to 
lia,  and  assured  the 
authorized  and  ready 
i  the   fealty  of  the 
ent.    He  added, that 
m  to  use  force  in  the 
ed  as  it  was  by  the 
vas  deemed  of  great 
as  manifested  by  the 
red  souls,  about  sub- 
to 


Ceftain  Ctutrc—Vagfi  894. 


TnAVEI.  «       IN       THE      I-  A  I.  I  F  o  R  N  I  A  i. 


21W 


Tlie  next  ntt  of  Captain  Castro  which  history  will  delight 
to  record,  was  tliat  of  arresting  certain  persons  at  Santa  Bar- 
bara sui)p(Ksea  to  be  favorable  to  the  pretensions  of  the  Don  ; 
namely,  Pedro  C.  Carrillo,  the  old  Don's  son,  and  a  Don  An- 
gelo,  former  Administrudor  ot  the  Port  of  Monterey,  under 
the  late  Mexican  authorities.  The  Ibrmcr  he  put  on  board 
the  bark  Kamamula,  and  sent  to  sea  for  safe  keeping ;  the 
latter  was  transmitted  to  Monterey  as  a  tropny  of  the  glorious 
victory  achieved  by  the  Grand  Army  of  six  at  Santa  Barbaia. 

Captain  Castro  tarried  only  two  days  at  Santa  Barbara. 
But  during  that  short  space  of  time  he  was  enabled,  by  using 
that  indefatigable  industry  and  intrepidity  for  which  he  was 
so  remarkable,  to  make  the  two  arrests  which  I  have  men- 
tioned. And  although  it  has  been  said  by  persons  presumed 
to  be  envious  of  the  Captain's  right  to  call  himself  the  Napo- 
leon of  California,  that  these  prisoners  made  no  attempt  to 
escape,  but,  on  the  contrary,  surrendered  themselves  without 
resistance,  yet  the  impartial  historian  will  undoubtedly  find, 
on  thorough  investigation,  that  he  who  captured  Graham  and 
others  with  so  much  bravery  and  renown,  could  not,  in  the 
possibility  of  things,  have  done  this  act  so  tamely  as  the  ene- 
mies of  the  Captain  would  maliciously  represent.  Captain 
Castro  was  a  Napoleon,  and  by  what  specious  sophistry  can 
mankind  be  made  to  believe  that  he  did  not  arrest  Seilores 
Pedro  and  Angelo,  in  a  manner  worthy  of  that  immortal 

name  1 

On  the  third  day,  the  Grand  Army  of  the  North  being  in- 
creased by  the  people  of  Santa  Barbara  to  one  hundred  men, 
and  supplied  with  three  field-pieces,  moved  against  the  Grand 
Array  of  the  South  at  San  Buenaventura.  They  arrived  in 
the  night ;  and  while  the  darkness  shielded  them  from  view, 
they  planted  the  cannon  on  the  heights  overlooking  the  Mis- 
sion, and  otherwise  prepared  themselves  for  the  horrors  of 
the  coming  day.  When  the  morning  dawned,  the  Captain 
had  the  satisfaction  to  perceive  that  his  position  had  been  so 
well  taken  that  the  garrison  of  the  opposing  forces  was  com- 


296 


SCENES      IN       THE      PACIFIC 


pletely  at  his  mercy ;  and  like  all  other  great  men,  being 
shocked  at  the  idea  of  shedding  blood  so  profusely  as  he  must 
do,  if  he  opened  upon  the  Mission  the  terrors  of  his  cannon, 
he  sent  in  a  flag  and  demanded  a  surrender.  But,  strange  to 
Bay,  the  Don,  not  having  before  his  eyes  the  fear  of  Castro's 
ammunition,  refused  obedience  to  this  reasonable  request,  and 
commenced  a  brisk  discharge  of  musketry  from  the  walls. 
This  was  answered  by  those  outside  with  both  muskets  and 
cannon.  The  work  of  death  thus  commenced  went  on  until 
the  shutting  in  of  night  on  the  fourth  day !  How  grateful  were 
the  shadows  of  that  night  to  the  besieged !  The  lighted  taper 
that  burned  at  the  altar  of  the  Chapel,  sent  a  straggling  ray 
over  the  area  within  the  walls,  and  glimmered  faintly  on  the 
arms  of  the  Don's  soldiery  I  But  neither  that  light  from  the 
altar  of  hope,  nor  the  beaming  bayonets  of  the  besieged  vete- 
rans, could  inspire  their  hearts  with  the  firmness  required  to 
prolong  so  terrific  and  destructive  a  conflict.  In  the  silent 
moment  of  midnight,  therefore,  more  than  half  of  the  Don's 
remaining  troops  made  a  desperate  sally  from  the  gate,  and 
not  being  opposed  for  awhile,  believed  that  their  intrepidity 
had  saved  them  !  But  they  were  unfortunately  mistaken ! 
The  Captain's  sentinels  had  noticed  their  operations,  and 
sounded  the  alarm  so  bravely  that  they  surrendered  them- 
selves at  discretion,  i^  ithout  waiting  for  the  unnecessary  cere- 
mony of  being  captured,  or  in  anywise  endangered. 

After  these  men  had  thus  daringly  given  themselves  up  to 
their  foes,  their  companions,  the  glorious  old  Don  and  all, 
capitulated.  And  now  came  the  calling  of  the  rolls  and  the 
burial  of  the  dead  !  Sad  rites  to  those  who  survive  such  days 
of  carnage  !  Forty-eight  hours  of  cannonading  on  the  one 
side,  and  of  busy  musket-shots  on  the  other ! !  How  many 
had  ceased  to  breathe,  was  the  anxious  inquiry !  The  offi- 
cial returns  read  thus,  "  Of  the  army  of  the  South  one  man 
killed.  Of  the  army  of  the  North  one  man  wounded. — God 
and  Liberty."  It  is  proper  to  observe  in  this  place,  that  it 
Was  afterwards  a  question  often  raised  between  the  soldiers 


TRAVELS      IN       THE      CALIFORHIAS. 


207 


eat  men,  being 
usely  as  he  must 
rs  of  his  cannon, 
But,  strange  to 
I  fear  of  Castro's 
able  request,  and 
r  from  the  walls. 
,0th  muskets  and 
ced  went  on  until 
iow  grateful  were 

The  lighted  taper 
t  a  straggling  ray 
ered  faintly  on  the 
that  light  from  the 

the  besieged  vete- 
rmness  required  to 
ct.      In  the  silent 

half  of  the  Don's 
from  the  gate,  and 
lat  their  intrepidity 
tunately  mistaken! 
»eir  operations,  and 
y  surrendered  them- 
he  unnecessary  cere- 
idangered. 
ren  themselves  up  to 
us  old  Don  anti  all, 
r  of  the  rolls  and  the 
vho  survive  such  days 
nonading  on  the  one 

other'.'.  How  many 
IS  inquiry!  The  offi- 
)f  the  South  one  man 
;  man  wounded. — God 
i  in  this  place,  that  it 
I  between  the  soldiers 


of  the  two  armies,  whether  the  Don  or  the  Captain  surrendered. 
But  the  most  authentic  accounts  rather  favor  the  opinion  that 
the  Captain  had  the  better  of  the  battle.     And  I  have  little 
doubt  that  when  the  Hume  of  that  country  shall  write  its 
annals,  and  some  unborn  Ossian  shall  sing  of  the  mighty  tread 
and  thundering  bucklers  of  the  Castros  and  Carrillos  of  that 
streamy  land,  they  will  not  only  commemorate  the  bloody 
ramparts  of  San  Buenaventura,  but  speak  worthily  of  the 
Don,  as  great  even  in  defeat,  and  of  Captain  Jose  as  glo- 
riously triumphant.    This  idea  is  remarkably  strengthened  by 
the  fact  that  as  soon  as  the  termination  of  the  campaign  was 
announced  at  Monterey,  the  puissant  Alvarado  journeyed  to 
San  Buenaventura,  and  thence  in  company  with  his  Captam 
Castro  to  El  Pueblo  de  los  Angelos,  where  he  took  posses- 
sion of  the  worthy  old  Don's  house,  and  acted  the  Governor 
upon  the  wines  and  brandies  therein  contained,  with  all  the 
taste  and  suavity  so  well  known  to  be  his  peculiar  excellen- 
ces, and  possessed  himself  of  whatever  else  he  listed  of  the 
Don's  personal  estate.    But— how  unjust  not  to  name  it- 
after  having  robbed  his  uncle,  he  gave  in  return  a  promise  to 
pay,  which  I  was  told  still  stands  good  against  him,  a  sum 
equal  to  his  own  estimate  of  the  value  he  had  taken. 

From  El  Pueblo  de  los  Angelos,  Governor  Alvarado 
proceeded  to  San  Diego,  the  southernmost  port  of  Alta  Cali- 
fornia ;  and  received  there  and  elsewhere  the  submission  of 
the  inhabitants,  till  the  whole  country  recognized  the  said 
Juan  Baptiste  Alvarado,  El  Goubernador  del  Alta  California. 
Even  the  glorious  old  Don  Carlos  Antonio  Carrillo  is  said  to 
have  paid  court  to  the  young  conqueror,  and  not  altogether 
unwillingly,  after  so  much  blood  shed  in  defence  of  his  dig- 
nity and  the  high  honors  of  his  office,  to  have  laid  aside  his 
pretensions  with  much  grace  and  apparent  satisfaction ;  thus 
demonstrating  that  noble  and  rare  principle  which  leads  the 
truly  great  man,— after  the  exercise  of  every  energy,  after 
wading  through  seas  of  gore,  after  baring  his  bosom  to  the 
knife  of  fate,  after  having  met,  defied,  endured,  every  hazard, 


298 


BCENBS      IN       THE      PACIFIC. 


every  hardship,  for  the  attainment  of  his  just  rights,-  to  prove 
himself  not  only  "  par  secundis,"  but  "  major  advcrsis  "  by 
seeking  repose,  and  calling  on  the  shades  of  forgetfulness  to 
fall  around  the  memory  of  heroic  exploits,  which  such  a  man 
blushes  to  hear  coupled  with  his  name.  So  little  need  has 
true  worth  of  noise  and  praise.  But  I  should  do  great  injus- 
tice to  the  worthy  Don,  if  J  neglected  to  state  his  manner  of 
obtaining  the  commission  of  Governor  of  Upper  California, 
in  support  of  which  he  struggled  so  manfully. 

About  two  years  after  the  Revolution  which  raised  a/v«- 
rado  to  power,  the  excellent  old  Don  sent  ati  account  of  that 
event  to  his  friend  Sa  Excellentissimo,  El  Presidente  Busta- 
mente,  in  which  among  other  matters  it  was  stated  that,  in 
case  Mexico  would  make  an  appointment  of  a  Californian  o( 
the  Governorship  of  the  country  (suggesting  at  the  same  timi- 
that  he  the  worthy  Don  was  at  the  seivice  of  the  State,) — he, 
the  Don,  and  his  amigos  would  reconquer  the  country,  and 
return  it  to  the  allegiance  of  Mexico.  The  Don's  brother,  a 
man  of  great  patriotism — id  est,  Mexican  patriotism,  or  the 
most  devoted  disposition  to  take  care  of  himself, — bore  this 
dispatch.  In  due  time  he  returned  with  a  commission — em- 
powering his  brother  Don  to  assume  the  Government  oi  Alta 
California.  The  only  irregularity  in  the  instrument  which 
arrested  attention  was  the  absence  of  the  proper  signa- 
tures and  the  Seal  of  State.  Byt  as  the  Don  was  called 
El  Goubernador  in  the  body  of  the  instrument,  that  irregu- 
larity was  deemed  by  his  friends  of  trifling  importance.  But 
it  was  this  that  the  wily  Alvarado  seized  upon  as  a  pretext 
for  not  delivering  up  the  helm  of  Government  to  the  most 
excellent  and  stately  old  Don,  and  allowing  himself,  and  his 
partisans  to  be  shot  according  to  the  law,  for  having  rebelled 
against  La  Republica  Mexicana. 

From  the  year  1838  to  the  year  1840,  the  time  when  the 
Author  entered  California,  Alvarado  continued  to  be  the  Gov- 
ernor of  that  lovely  land.  And  during  that  period  no  eventi 
occurred  worthy  of  being  detailed. 


A>3 

I?! 

0( 
Fi 
TL 

S( 
of  C 
Unit 
Paci 
tiliti 
hoist 
and 
Calil 

Itl 
histc 
Btill  I 
it  to 
Cole 
host! 
theii 
and 
agail 
upoiT 
and 


IC. 

t  rights,-  to  prove 
ajor  advcrsis ,"  by 
of  forgetfulness  to 
which  such  a  man 
So  Uttle  need  has 
uW  do  great  injus- 
tate  his  manner  of 
Upper  California, 

A-hich  raised  a/v^i- 
aii  ••count  of  that 
I  Prtfidente  Busta- 
was  stated  that,  in 
of  a  Californian  of 
ng  at  the  same  timi- 
jofthe  State,)— he, 
ler  the  country,  and 
rhe  Don's  brother,  a 
n  patriotism,  or  the 
himself,— bore  this 
a  commission — em- 
Government  of  Alta 
be  instriunent  which 
'   the  proper  signa- 
Ihe  Don  was  called 
trument,  that  irregu- 
ing  importance.     But 
ed  upon  as  a  pretext 
ernment  to  the  most 
iwing  himself,  and  his 
iv,  for  having  rebelled 

10,  the  time  when  the 

itinued  to  be  the  Gov. 

that  period  no  event! 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

A  New  Era  in  Californift— War  with  the  Unitod  States— Various 
Haltles— rieroism  of  the  Americans— Coiuiuest— Discovery  of 
(lold  — Hrilliant  Hopes  — On  the  Pacific  again  — Lona:  Tom 
Finishes  his  Yarn— Speculations  on  the  Future  of  California— 
The  Prisoners— Foor  Graham— Home  and  ray  Wife— Reflections. 

Soon  after  this  commenced  a  new  era  in  the  history 
of  California.  In  1845  a  rupture  occurred  between  the 
United  States  and  Mexico.  Commodore  Sloat  of  tho 
Pacific  Squadron,  hearing  of  the  commencement  of  hos- 
tilities on  the  Rio  Grande,  immediately  seized  Monterey, 
hoisted  the  Star  Spangled  Banner  from  the  Custom  House, 
and  issued  a  proclamation  of  war  to  the  people  of  the 
Californias. 

It  would  be  foreign  from  our  purpose  to  give  a  detailed 
history  of  this  war.  The  principal  incidents  are  doubtless 
Btill  fresh  in  the  memory  of  most  of  our  readers.  Suffice 
it  to  say,  that  Commodore  Stockton,  General  Kearney, 
Colonel  Fremont,  Captains  Barrows  and  Thompson,  and 
hosts  of  others,  did  honor  to  the  flag  of  their  country  by 
their  gallant  achievements.  At  the  Rio  San  Gabriel, 
and  on  the  plains  of  Meza,  decisive  battles  were  fought 
against  overwhelming  odds,  when  victory,  as  usual,  perched 
upon  the  American  banner,  with  a  loss  of  only  one  killed 
and  thirteen  wounded  in  the  two  fights.  Various  other 
engagements  occurred,  the  history  of  all  of  which  will  bo 
found  in  other  volumes. 

One  incident  will  illustrate  the  daring  and  heroic  cha- 
racter of  the  men  engaged  in  that  glorious  struggle.    At 

(299) 


300 


SCENES  IN  THE  PACTFIO. 


Santa  Barbara,  Lieutenant  Talbot,  with  only  nine  men 
under  his  command,  was  besieged  by  a  large  body  of  the 
enemy  and  compelled  to  evacuate  the  place.  He  gal- 
lantly forced  his  way  through  the  besiegers  to  the  moun- 
tains in  the  vicinity,  where,  refusing  to  surrender  on  any 
terms,  he  kept  the  enemy  at  bay  like  a  tiger  in  his  lair, 
until  they  set  fire  to  the  groves  and  bushes  around  him, 
and  actually  burned  him  out.  He  then  forced  a  march 
of  five  hundred  miles  through  the  enemy's  country  on  foot 
to  Monterey,  where  his  arrival  caused  the  utmost  joy  to 
all  the  Americans,  with  whom  he  was  a  great  favorite, 
and  who  had  given  him  up  as  lost. 

By  the  terms  of  the  treaty  of  peace,  <^  alifornia  came 
into  possession  of  the  United  States.  Next  came  the 
discovery  of  gold  r,nd  the  rush  of  emigrants  to  that  coun- 
try from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Exaggerated  stories  of 
the  immense  mineral  wealth  of  the  new  El  Dorado  in- 
flamed the  minds  of  men,  and  thousands  left  the  slow 
but  sure  pursuits  of  home  for  sudden  wealth  in  a  strange 
land.  With  a  few  the  dream  has  been  realized;  and 
although  in  the  aggregate  vast  sums  of  gold  have  been 
obtained,  yet  a  large  proportion  of  the  miners  have  learned 
the  to  them  sad  lesson  that  man,  in  any  country,  to  be 
truly  happy,  must  earn  his  living  by  the  sweat  of  his 
brow.  Through  much  exposure  and  suffering,  wearied 
and  heart  broken,  the  poor  miner  has  not  unfrequently 
returned  from  the  scene  of  his  brilliant  hopes  to  spend 
his  last  hours  among  his  early  friends — a  sadder  but  a 
wiser  man. 

But  to  return.  On  the  fifth  of  May,  1840,  we  made 
our  adieus  to  our  acquaintance  in  Santa  Barbara,  piepa- 
ratory  to  falling  down  the  coast.  The  American  visited  the 
sick  Englishman,found  him  breathing  faintly,and  apparently 
very  near  death.  But  it  was  necessary  to  embark,  and  leave 
the  dying  man  in  the  kind  care  of  his  nurses,  who,  I  have  no 


r 


^ 


only  nine  men 
arge  body  of  the 

place.  He  gai- 
ners to  the  moun- 
surrender  on  any 
tiger  in  his  lair, 
shes  around  him, 
n  forced  a  march 
r's  country  on  foot 
the  utmost  joy  to 

a  great  favorite, 

5,  «,  alifornia  came 
Next  came  the 
rants  to  that  coun- 
rgerated  stories  of 
ew  El  Dorado  in- 
lands left  the  slow 
wealth  in  a  strange 
jeen  realized;   and 

of  gold  have  been 
miners  have  learned 

any  country,  to  be 
y  the  sweat  of  his 
1  suffering,  wearied 
iS  not  unfrequently 
ant  hopes  to  spend 
^da — a  sadder  but  a 

Vlay,  1840,  we  made 
inta  Barbara,  p.epa- 
American  visited  the 
aintly,and  apparently 
r  to  embark,  and  leave 
lurses,  who,  I  have  no 


TRAVELS      IN      THE      CALIFORNtAS. 


303 


rfoubt,  administered  to  his  last  want,  and  made  his  grave-dress 
wi«h  willing  hands.  "  Dead— starved  to  death  !  Death  of  a 
Briton  from  thirst  and  starvation,  by  direction  of  Juan  Bap- 
tista  Alvarado,  Governor  of  Upper  California,''  Is  the  account 
which  truth  will  give,  on  earth  and  at  the  judgment,  of  this 
man's  death. 

At  twelve  o'clock,  the  lusty  fellows  a*  the  windlass  had  the 
anchor  on  the  bow,  and  our  good  old  ship  was  bearing  down 
the  coast  under  a  fine  northerly  breeze.     She,  or  rather  he, 
for  I  De'iieve  ail  Dons  are  males,  and  particularly  Don  Quix- 
otes, being  in  ballast,  ran  rapidly,  cheeringly,  and  exultingly 
over  the  quiet  sea.     And  right  glad  were  we  to  be  under 
weigh.     We  had  been  long  enough  among  the  jolly  birds 
and  flowering  meadows  of  California,  to  rejoice  to  be  again 
at  sea.    It  was  sad,  howevar,  to  be  borne  away  from  the 
prisons  and  the  moans  of  our  fellow-countrymen.     And  now 
the  deep  blue  sea — its  mermaid  song — its  anthems  of  sub- 
limity— its  glories  and  beauties ;  really  and  in  truth,  what  are 
they  1    What  man  in  his  senses  loves  the  Ocean  1    The  mer- 
maids are  all  porpoises,  and  their  songs  all  grunts!    The 
deep  sounds  of  the  ocean's  pealing  organ,  are  the  rude  groans 
of  the  winds  and  the  dashing  rage  of  far-rolling  surges,  rap- 
ping madly  at  the  bows !    The  tufts  of  dancing  foam  on  the 
bitter  wastes — desert,  heaving,  unsympathizing,  cold,  home- 
less !    Love  of  Ocean ! !    Poetry  of  Ocean ! !    It  is  a  pity  I 
cannot  love  it — see  in  its  deep  still  lower  realm,  or  in  its 
lonely  tumults,  or  its  surface  when  the  air  is  still,  its  heat, 
Ihirst  and  death,  its  vast  palpitating  tomb,  the  shady  hand 
and  veiled  smile  of  loveliness ! — that  I  cannot  believe  Old 
Ocean  has  a  Iteart,  which  sen3s  its  kindly  beatings  up  and 
down  all  the  shores  of  earth  !     Poetry  !   Loveliness !    They 
may  be  there  ;  but  Ocean's  odor  and  mien  are  not  poetry  to 
me !     If  I  have  ever  said  anything  to  the  contrary,  I  beg  the 
pardon  of  the  sea  poets.     There  is,  however,  a  certain  class 
of  beings  who  hold  a  very  different  opinion  :  these  are  the 
regular  old  Salts ;  men  who  from  boyhood  have  slept  in  the 


304 


SCENES       IN       THE       PACIFIC 


fni  ecastle,  eaten  at  the  windlass,  sung  at  the  halyards,  danced 
oil  the  yards  to  the  music  of  the  tempest,  and  hailed  the  tu« 
mult  of  the  seas  as  a  frolic  in  which  they  had  a  joyful  part. 
We  respect  these  poets.  Indeed,  the  Ocean  to  them  is  a 
world,  the  theatre  of  their  being  ;  and  by  inhabiting  it  all 
their  days,  these  singular  men  become  changed  from  partici- 
pants in  the  delights  of  natural  life  on  land,  to  creatures  of 
memory.  Memory  !  that  mental  action  which  sifts  the  past 
of  its  bitterest  evils,  and  gives  only  the  blossom  and  the  fruit 
to  after-time.  These  they  enjoy  in  the  midnight  watch,  at  the 
dawn,  in  the  storm,  the  calm,  and  in  visions  of  sleep ;  but  for 
ever  upon  the  deep,  on  the  great  expanse  of  the  Sea  !  Is  it 
wonderful,  then,  that  they  should  love  it  ?  that  their  affections 
become  poetry  ?  See  them  seated  at  their  meal  before  the 
mast ;  their  wide  pants  lap  over  their  sprawled  limbs ;  the 
red  flannel  shirt  peers  out  at  the  wrists,  and  blazes  over  their 
broad  chests  between  the  ample  dimensions  of  the  heavy  pea- 
jacket  ;  and  crowning  all  is  the  tarpaulin  with  its  streaming 
band,  cocked  on  one  side  of  the  head  ;  and  grouped  in  the 
most  approved  style  of  a  thoroughly  lazy  independence,  they 
eat  their  meal.  At  such  times,  if  the  weather  be  fine,  stud- 
ding-sails out,  and  top-gallants  pulling,  they  speak  of  the 
ship  as  a  lady,  well  decked,  and  of  beautiful  bearing,  gliding 
like  a  nymph  through  the  gurgling  waters.  If  the  breeze  be 
strong,  and  drives  her  down  on  her,  beams,  they  speak  of  her 
as  bowing  to  her  Lord  and  Master,  while  she  uses  his  might 
to  bear  her  on  to  her  own  purposes.  And  if  the  tempest 
weighs  on  the  sea,  and  the  fierce  winds  howl  down  upon  her 
dead  ahead,  and  the  storm-sail  displays  over  the  fore-chains 
its  three-sided  form,  and  the  ship  lays  up  to  the  raging  ele- 
ments, breasting  every  swoop  of  wave  and  blast,  she  still  is  a 
lady,  coming  forth  from  her  empire  of  depeniient  loveliness 
to  bov;  before  an  irresistible  force,  only  to  rise  again,  and 
present  the  sceptre  of  Hope  to  dismayed  man.  These  Salts 
believe  in  the  poetry  of  the  sea,  and  of  the  noble  structures  in 


TRAVELS      IM       THE      CALlFOKllIAS. 


305 


lalyards,  danced 
J  hulled  the  tu- 
1(1  a  joyful  part, 
n  to  them  is  a 
inhabiting  it  all 
red  from  partici- 
[1,  to  cruatures  of 
lich  sifts  the  past 
som  and  the  fruit 
ight  watch,  at  the 
of  sleep ;  but  for 
,f  the  Sea  I     Is  it 
hat  their  affections 
r  meal  before  the 
rawled  limbs;  the 
d  blazes  over  their 
;  of  the  heavy  pea- 
wvth  its  streaming 
nd  grouped  in  the 
independence,  they 
atber  be  fine,  stud- 
they  speak  of  the 
ful  bearing,  gliding 
i.    If  the  breeze  be 
s,  they  speak  of  her 
B  she  uses  his  might 
And  if  the  tempest 
iiowl  down  upon  her 
over  the  fore-chains 
p  to  the  raging  ele- 
iid  blast,  she  still  is  a 
dependent  loveliness 
y  to  rise  again,  and 
i  man.     These  Salts 
he  noble  structures  in 


which  they  traverse  its  pathless  immensity.     And  it  may  be 
that  they  are  right,  and  I  am  wrong. 

During  the  day  we  passed  near  to  the  coast.     A  fruitful 
strip  of  land  running  along  the  shore ;  broken  by  hills  in- 
creasing in  height  from  the  water-side  towards  the  interior, 
and  bounded  by  high  mountains  partially  covered  with  trees, 
but  generally  burnt  and  barren,  is  a  true  showing  of  that 
part  of  California.     It  was  a  bright  day,  with  a  cool  whole- 
some air.     Every  sail  was  out  and  filled,  as  white  as  snow, 
the  wind  on  the  larboard  quarter,  the  crew  lounging,  and  the 
dolphins  chasing,  and  the  gulls  screaming,  and  the  spray 
dashing  at  the  bows.     Home,  and  the  mother  of  my  buried 
boy,  if  I  may  speak  of  myself,  the  heart's  guiding  star  on 
those  wastes  of  soul  and  of  nature,  were  drawing  near  me, 
and  in  thought  were  there.     Speed  on,  noble  ship,  speed  on  ; 
it  is  the  illusion  of  happy  memories,  speed  on ! 

On  the  sixth  and  seventh  the  breeze  continued  favorable. 
The  coast  was  generally  in  sight,  and  appeared  to  be  more 
and  more  barren  as  we  followed  it  down  ! 

On  the  eighth  we  sailed  along  the  east  side  of  Guadeloupe. 
This  island  is  about  thirty  miles  in  circumference,  somewhat 
mountainous,  evidently  of  volcanic  origin,  surrounded  by  im- 
mense reefs  of  black  rocks,  and  destitute  of  coral  formations 
There  are  two  places  of  access,  the  one  on  the  southwest,  the 
other  on  the  northwest  side.  It  has  no  harbor  for  anything  else 
than  small  boats;  and  though  containing  considerable  quantities 
of  arable  land,  is  uninhabited  except  by  sea  birds,  turtles  and 
goals.     The  latter  are  the  offspring  of  a  few  of  these  animals 
landed  upon  it  by  the  early  Spanish  navigators.     They  have 
been  in  unmolested  possession  of  the  island  for  the  last  eighty 
years,  and  are  now  so  very  numerous,  that  they  could  be  profita- 
bly hunted  for  their  skins  and  tallow.  In  former  times  this  island 
used  to  abound  in  sea  elephants  and  hair  seal ;  but  the  Ame- 
rican  hunters  and  whalers  have  nearly  destroyed  them.     Ai 
we  passed,  a  right  whale  spouted  near  the  shore.    The  cir- 


i.. 


306 


SCENES      IN      THE      PtClriC. 


cumstance  electrified  Tom,  and  opened  his  word  loom  to  the 
following  yarn. 

"  The  lubber,  that  whale  !  I  would  like  to  be  in  the  bow 
of  a  staunch  boat,  with  four  stout  oarsmen,  and  a  bold  fellow 
to  steer  upon  him  ;  I  would  soon  make  him  spout  blood  in- 
stead of  water ! 

'  I  was  telling  you  the  yam  of  my  becoming  a  sailor,  when 
the  old  man  coiled  up  my  thoughts  among  the  halyards. 
Now  that  whale  brings  them  back  again,  and  while  he  is 
taking  his  observation,  and  blowing  his  nose,  I'll  finish  my  yarn. 
I  was  about  nineteen  when  I  blundered  against  the  capstan 
of  a  whaler,  and  shipped  at  New  Bedford  for  a  three  years' 
cruise.  We  left  port  with  as  good  an  outfit  of  harpoons,  lines, 
knives,  trying-pans,  stores,  and  ship's  crew  as  ever  swam  the 
brine.  I  remember  we  had  a  studdin-sail  breeze  a  longer 
time  on  our  passage  out,  than  I  ever  saw  before  or  since,  ex- 
cept in  the  trades.  "We  put  out  all  sail  in  sight  of  the  New 
Bedford  Light,  and  never  took  in  a  rag  until  we  had  crossed 
the  equator ;  and  then  we  struck  a  dead  calm,  which  conti- 
nued fifteen  days.  That  was  the  worst  siege  at  oakum  and 
spun  yarn  that  Tom  ever  saw.  The  sun  seemed  to  pour 
down  fire !  It  was  so  warm  that  the  tar  in  the  deck  fried 
and  bubbled ;  and  the  old  long  boat  shrunk  so  much  that  you 
could  stick  your  thumb  through  between  the  planks ;  and  the 
d«^cks  were  so  hot  that  we  were  obliged  to  keep  them  con- 
stantly wet  to  enable  us  to  stand  on  them.  And  as  to  breath- 
ing, we  found  that  the  hardest  work  of  all.  The  great 
atmosphere  seemed  to  have  escaped,  and  left  a  perfect  void  ! 
The  ocean  was  smooth ;  not  a  rough  spot  upon  it  as  big  as  a 
cent,  except  when  the  cook  threw  his  slush  overboard !  It 
lay  and  rolled  like  a  bending  sea  of  glass !  The  vessel,  with 
its  sails  hanging  loose  on  the  mast,  rose  and  fell  on  it  like  a 
sheet  upon  the  breast  of  the  dying.  The  sky  was  awfully 
bare  and  deserted  !  Not  a  shred  of  a  cloud  dotted  it  for  fif- 
teen days !  I  never  felt  lonesome  till  that  time.  I  had  rather 
lay  to  under  storm  sail  a  twelvemonth,  than  be  compelled  to 


IC. 

word  loom  to  th« 

to  be  in  the  bow 
and  a  bold  fellow 
n  spout  blood  in- 

ling  a  sailor,  when 
)ng  the  halyards. 
J,  and  while  he  is 
,ril  finish  my  yarn, 
igainst  the  capstan 

for  a  three  years' 
t  of  harpoons,  lines, 

as  ever  swam  the 
il  breeze  a  longer 
before  or  since,  ex- 
in  sight  of  the  New 
intil  we  had  crossed 

calm,  which  conti- 
siege  at  oakum  and 
;un  seemed  to  pour 
arin  the  deck  fried 
ink  so  much  that  you 
the  planks ;  and  the 

to  keep  them  con- 
1.    And  as  to  breath- 

of  all.     The  great 
d  left  a  perfect  void  ! 
ot  upon  it  as  big  as  a 
slush  overboard!    It 
ss !    The  vessel,  with 
B  and  fell  on  it  like  a 
The  sky  was  awfully 
cloud  dotted  it  for  fif- 
tiattime.    I  had  rather 
,  than  be  compelled  to 


TRAVEL!      IW      THE      C  A  L  I  r  0  R  W  I  A  ». 


an? 


pick  oakum  and  make  spun  yam,  and  think  through  a  calm 
like  that.  "Well,  at  the  end  of  fifteen  days,  just  as  the  sun 
•et,  a  little  cloud  about  as  large  as  John's  tarpaulin,  scud  up 
in  the  nor'west,  like  an  angel  of  mercy  to  tell  us  there  was 
wind  once  more  in  the  heavens ;  and  about  eight  o'clock  ihe 
old  ocean  began  to  stir ;  the  air  struck  our  parched  bodies, 
and  the  sails  flapped,  the  vessel  moved,  and  we  began  to  feel 
that  we  were  climbing  out  of  a  great  hot  grave ;  I  never  shall 
forget  that  calm. 

"  Well,  we  had  light  breezes  till  we  got  off  Montevideo, 
when  a  stiff  norther  came  on,  which  bore  us  on  ur)ilir  double- 
reefed  topsails  down  to  the  Cape.     Here  it  came  on  to  blow 
a  gale,  and  we  were  obliged  to  run  into  Magellan,  and  lay 
to  imder  the  lee  of  the  highlands.     After  lying  there  two 
days,  the  wind  chopped  round  northeast,  and    the  old  man 
thought  we  might  as  well  run  through  the  Straits.     But  the 
gale  was  renewed,  and  rushed  overland  upon  us  with  such 
fury  that  we  could  carry  for  a  number  of  days,  only  sail 
enough  to  make  the  ship  lay  her  course.     At  last  we  hove  in 
sight  of  the  Pacific,  and  run  afoul  one  of  those  villainous  head 
winds  which  you  know  often  set  into  the  west  end  of  the 
Straits.    This  detained  us  nine  days.    At  the  end  of  this  time, 
it  hauled  into  the  northeast,  and  enabled  us  to  get  into  the 
open  sea.    Our  course  from  the  Straits  was  NW.     But  the 
wind  again  chopped  round  dead  ahead  ;  consequently  all  we 
could  do  was  to  try  to  hold  our  own.     We  accordiogly  beat 
off  and  on,  and  lay  too  twelve  days,  when  we  found  me  must 
up  helm  and   let   her  run.     The  gale  was  awful ;  and  as  we 
advanced  south  the   rnggedness   of  the    sea   was    continually 
more  and  more  frightful;  the  fold  became  intense;  the  water 
froze  upon  the  deck  six  inches  deep ;  and  the  spars,  and  masts, 
and  rigging  were  covered  with  ice  to  such  an  extent,  that  the 
ship  swayed  under  the  gale,  and  was  likely   to   swamp ;    the 
most  like  a  death-call  from  the  mermaids  that  Tom  ever  saw, 
was   that   gale.     The  ship  lurching  her  spars  into  the  waves, 
the  sailors  slipping,  the  rigging  stiff,  and  the   only    sail   set, 


nof) 


HCKNBB      IN       THE      PACiriC. 


cuVL'ied  with  ice  several  inches  thick  ;  the  aasts  lii<(>  vaat 
icicles,  and  the  old  man  and  every  man  expecting  evvry  mo- 
ment to  go  down !  Alter  drifting,  however,  as  far  as  70** 
South,  the  gale  abated,  the  wind  changed,  we  cut  away  the 
studding-sail,  rigged  another,  and  stood  away  for  the  north, 
and  in  a  few  days  got  rid  of  our  ice  and  other  troubles.  We 
now  took  our  course  for  New  Zealand,  and  about  300  miles 
east  of  that  it«land   fell  in  with  the  whales  I  thought  of,  as 

we" .  "  Bear  a  hand  there,  you  lubbers."   "  Aye,  aye,  sir." 

"  Bring  out  the  old  trysail,  and  run  your  yarns  into  that." 
"  Aye,  aye,  sir."  And  thus  was  Tom's  yarn  again  severed, 
much  to  his  chagrin,  and  my  regret ;  for  I  longed  to  hear  a 
whalesman's  account  of  his  bold  and  dangerous  calling. 

On  the  10th  of  May  wc  came  in  sight  of  Cape  Saa  Lucas, 
bearing  thirty  miles  SE.  It  was  about  five  o'clock,  P.  M. 
The  wind  had  been  dying  awhy  since  noon,  and  now  barely 
kept  the  ship  moving.  The  western  portion  of  the  sea  was 
all  light  and  glorious  ;  it  lay  panting,  as  a  wearied  giant  juM 
returned  from  the  field  of  conflict.  The  sun,  as  he  fell  stea- 
dily down  the  great  arc  of  heaven,  was  reflected  more  and 
more  widely  and  intensely,  until  his  reddest  rays  shot  through 
the  clear  tops  of  the  billows,  and  scattered  a  purple  drapery 
of  clouds  sprinkled  with  gold  up  half  the  western  sky.  Gay- 
plumaged  land  birds  gathered  on  the  rigging,  anti  twittered 
and  sang  to  the  approaching  twilight.  The  land  was  eight 
miles  from  us ;  a  rough  red  waste  of  mountains  I  those  holy 
desolations  where  the  Indians'  God  made  his  descent  to  bless 
them,  their  streams,  their  fruits,  and  give  elasticity  to  their 
bows.  Sturdy  scenes !  rocks  on  rocks,  gloom  on  gloom,  sand 
on  sand,  and  dearth  feeding  dearth,  and  universal  thirst  prey- 
ing on  animal  and  herb !  The  living  things  in  the  sea  fro- 
licked around  us.  The  dolphin,  the  bonitos,  the  flying  fish, 
the  porpoise,  the  right  whale,  were  all  employing  their 
muscles  in  their  own  way  among  the  sleeping  waters ;  and 
about  the  sides  of  the  almost  motionless  vessel  swarmed  shcials 
of  bright  and  active  little  fish  that  seemed  to  beseech  us  for 


|c. 

aasts  likp  vast 

ktin^  evvry  mo- 

as  far  as  70** 

e  cut  away  the 

ly  for  the  north, 

!r  troubles.     We 

about  300  miles 

I  thought  of,  as 

"  Aye,  aye,  sir." 

yarns  into  that." 

n  again  severed, 

lonjfed  to  hear  a 

rous  calling. 

Cape  Saa  Lucas, 

ive  o'clock,  P.  M. 

1,  anil  now  barely 

on  of  the  sea  was 

wearied  giant  juit 

un,  as  he  fell  stea- 

reflected  more  and 

t  rays  shot  through 

i  a  purple  drapery 

i^estern  sky.     Gay- 

ging,  anri  twittered 

Phe  land  was  eight 

jntains !  those  holy 

his  descent  to  bless 

i  elasticity  to  their 

3om  on  gloom,  sand 

[liversal  thirst  prey- 

ngs  in  the  sea  fro- 

itos,  the  flying  fish, 

1    employing    their 

eeping  waters ;  and 

ssel  swarmed  shoals 

ed  to  beseech  us  for 


r 


TRATIL8      IN      THE      CALIFORNIA  S. 


ao0 


proN'Clion  and  food.  As  the  sun's  disc  sank  below  the  hori- 
zon, and  he  withdrew  his  last  rays  from  the  mists  of  the  sea, 
and  lelt  the  stars  to  their  own  twmkling,  the  mellow  clear 
blue  of  a  tropical  sky  came  out  over  us ;  such  a  sky  as  hangs 
over  Athens  and  the  Egean  tides  and  islands.  This  was  re- 
flected back  from  the  waves,  on  which  the  stars  danced  and 
flickered,  were  extinguished  and  lighted  up  again,  as  swell 
after  swell  approached  the  ship,  and  rocked,  as  does  the 
heart  of  the  mother  the  child  slumbering  on  her  breast.  The 
moon  was  in  the  first  quarter,  rounding  to  the  full.  And  I 
remember  never  to  have  lelt  so  strong  a  sympathy  with  it  as 
on  that  glorious  night.  If  dreams  come  when  reason  sleeps, 
and  recollection  serves  only  to  feed  the  aflections,  and  dee|)en 
the  musings  of  the  imagination  and  associating  powers,  I  cer- 
tainly dreamed  with  eyes  on  the  moon  and  stars  and  the  sea 
of  that  night.  The  day  had  gone ;  it  was  night ;  the  sta£S 
were  out,  and  the  sea  was  dancing  to  the  music  of  the  flir 
distant  and  ceased  tempest,  and  the  moon  had  come  over  my 
home,  was  shining  through  its  windows  upon  the  table  at 
which  we  ate,  on  the  chairs  in  which  we  sat,  on  the  walls 
that  had  witnessed  the  high  and  unmarred  pleasures  of  the 
domestic  afTections.  It  was  lighting  up  the  altar  of  my  holiest 
hopes,  and  crowding  upon  it  every  gem  of  joy  which  had 
shone  on  the  path  of  the  past !  A  bird  chirped  among  the 
rigging  a  note  which  resembled  one  that  had  gladdened  even- 
ing walks,  and  often  died  in  the  ear  as  in  the  opening  spring 
sleep  was  gathering  us  to  rest ;  and  that  chosen  star,  that  con- 
secrated star,  that  star  on  which  we  hung  our  vows  at  parting, 
was  looking  down  upon  me  !  I  walked  forward  among  the 
watch,  who  were  loitering  about  the  forecastle  in  silence. 
"  A  fine  night  this,  sir,"  said  one  of  them,  "  a  fine  night,  sir. 
This  weather  reminds  one  of  our  New  England  Indian  sum- 
mers, when  I  used  to  go  out  of  an  evening  to  a  country  dance, 
and  throw  clubs  into  the  trees  to  get  the  finest  apples  for  the 
neighboring  girls.  I  recollect  that  I  lost  my  heart  on  just 
eucb  a  night  as  this,  when  about  twelve  years  old !    I  weD* 


g,anara-r,  -b"  '—  j        „„^„,,i,„  ,p,out  from  the  n,a.n 

Turrets  nse  on  turrets  '^^J  ^^^^^^,^  confusion 

They  are  an  .regular  unst  a  .^^^^^  g  Y       ^^^  ^^  ^^  ^^^ 

°'-f  jtC     m  bada'finevlwof  both  shores  of 

Toulf  of  CaXrnia  for  fifty  miles.    The  scenery  was  ex- 
the  Gull  0    oa  ^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^^^  ^^^^ 

tremely  mterestinR.    The  eastern       i 

thP  western.    The  eastern  shore  of  the  bull,  the  e<ige 

MexTct  main,  was  sublime.     Not  so  much  so  on  account  of 

!1  Tiir-  or  if  alUtude.  as  .ts  resemblance  to  a  conU- 


•out  from  the  main 
housand  feet  below. 
J  of  an  olden  land 
,  desolate  confusion 
six  miles  SE.  of  the 
1  of  both  shores  of 
'he  scenery  was  ex- 
jhore  was  much  like 
lulf,  the  edge  of  the 
ich  so  on  account  of 
smblance  to  a  conti- 


Dieeo  in  Latitude  33«  N..  and  San  Francisco  m  Latitude  3  < 
N   fff  rd   secure  anchorage   for  the  navi«  of  the  c.v.  ized 
L'rld  and  every  desirable  facility  for  erecting  wharves,  docks 
Tda^n  Is     These  indenting  a  country  capable  of  susta.n- 
ng  t^yt  e  millions  of  people,  with  the  health^st  c  .mate 
on'  the  continent,  affording  abundance  of  l.ve  oak  and    the 
materials,  without  stint,  fer  the  construction  and  rigging  o 
"  Xand  a  rich  soil  bearing  on  the  same  acre  the  fruits  of 
1  tropkal  and  the  temperate  zones ;  with  the  greatest  possi- 
tl   S 1 1  commercial  intercourse  with  the  eastern  s^o^e. 
Of  the  Russian  Empire.  China.  India.  Australia,  and  the  Ha- 
02 


^«l  ■IJll.r*  >>■' 


with  loaded  mules  in  thirty  days.     From  this  lake  to  the  navi- 
gable waters  of  i'ae  San  Joaquim  is  not  more  than  three  hun- 
dred and  fift.^  miles,  with  plenty  of  wood,  water  and  grass  the 
whole  distat'ice.    The  high  range  of  mountains  between  the 
San  Joaquim  and  Mary's  river  can  be  passed  in  six  hours. 
There  is  a  low  gap,  pathway  leading  through  it     The  route 
from  this  gap  leads  up  Mary's  river  to  the  forks ;  thence  up 
the  east  fork,  and  over  the  plains,  to  the  Pont  Neuf  branch  of 
the  SaptiH ;  thence  through  a  gap  in  the  mountains  to  Big 
Bear  river   at  the  Soda  Springs  ;  thence    up  Bear  river  and 
over  the  plains  to  the  Rendezvous  on  the  Sheetskadee  ;  thence 
over  the  plains  to  the  Sweetwater  branch  of  the  north  fork  o 


is  lake  to  the  navi- 
re  than  three  hun- 
irater  and  grass  the 
itains  between  the 
ssed  in  six  hours, 
igh  it     The  route 

>  forks ;  thence  up 
unt  Neuf  branch  of 

>  mountains  to  Big 
up  Bear  river  and 

heetskadee ;  thence 
jf  the  north  fork  o 


to  Messrs.  JOrilwOn  niiil  V^iioiilVJCSir.-.r.,  r. ■.•.■•■.  •.■«•.•.•.•-■«  -.-t 

in  the  schooner  Gt  trudes,  formerly  the  Honduras  of  the 
Hawaiian  Isles.  On  the  sixteenth  we  anchored  alongside  the 
prison-ship  in  the  roads  of  San  Bias,  and  had  the  pleasure  of 
knowing  that  none  of  our  countrymen  had  perished  on  the 
passage.  They  had  suffered  greatly  from  thirst  and  hunger  ; 
but  they  lived  ;  and  that  to  us  and  to  them  was  cause  of  the 
deepest  gratitude.  Forty-six  Americans  and  Britons  in 
chains  !-in  the  chains  of  Californian  Spaniards  !  Will  not 
the  day  come  when  vengeance  will  be  repaid  ? 

During  the  afternoon  and  t.he  night  following  day  we  rode 
sixty  mile»  to  the  city  of  Tepic,  and  laid  the  case  of  these  pr». 


leo?? 


^^ 


^^ 


.^-1 


